FIRST LOOK
The beautiful market town of Ross-on-Wye
Managing Director Ian David Heads ian.heads@ kingfishermedia.co.uk
DESIGN
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Cover illustration: Herefordshire Gold by Edward Tuckwell A Kingfisher Media publication. KVGWTH-1124-52-10461C-BIS Printed and bound in Great Britain by Bishops Ltd
Shopaholics will love it here for the eclectic mix of boho-chic boutiques, highstreet staples and quirky independents.
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This wonderful county draws visitors back like a magnet year after year
Welcome, visitor!
Whether it’s a weekend break to visit a medieval manor house or a must-see garden, days out with the children or a taste sensation at an elegant restaurant, Herefordshire has got it all.
Hear stories of the castles dotted across the rolling landscape or cycle along the endless miles of fantastic roads in the county.
Dust off your National Trust membership and get yourself over to one of Herefordshire’s National Trust-owned properties which include Brockhampton Estate, Berrington Hall and Croft Castle and Parkland.
Enjoy fine dining at award-winning restaurants after a long day of browsing local
produce in picturesque market towns offering all the temptation presented by the county’s independent retailers.
Herefordshire is also a hotspot for arts and culture. The county plays hosts to a number of fantastic festivals including Lakefest, El Dorado (the colourful brainchild of travelling party planners, Cirque Du Soul) and Nozstock: The Hidden Valley.
Whether you’re visiting for business or pleasure, you can always be assured of finding something exciting to do, tasty to eat or interesting to explore. So whatever you do during your visit to the county, please enjoy –and come back soon! ■
Herefordshire’s ‘patchwork quilt’ of rolling Farmland
Herefordshire offers an abundance of things to do with days out and top attractions for the whole family to enjoy
Great days out
Those already acquainted with Herefordshire will be familiar with its plentiful activities. However, if you’re visiting for the first time, you may be surprised by just how much there is to do here. While the county’s countryside is a magnet for nature lovers, there are also fairytale gardens, historic homes, adrenalinefuelled activities and, for the grown-ups, barrel-loads of cider to look forward to.
From the prettiest picnic spots to the grandest mansions, spend your days exploring Herefordshire’s historic homes and jawdropping scenery.
One man who certainly made the most of Herefordshire’s landscape was the English gardener, Lancelot ‘Capability’ Brown. It’s
Croft Castle is a real National Trust treasure
him we have to thank for the design of the parkland surrounding Berrington Hall. Trails invite you to explore all the nooks and crannies of this estate, including a 14-acre lake complete with its own ‘Heron Island’. However, the Georgian walled garden and pick-your-own apple orchard really steal the show.
Berrington Hall itself is one of the few masterpieces by architect Henry Holland to survive intact. Join a tour of the house’s distinguished family rooms and hidden servants’ quarters – an insight into life in Georgian England. The property is great for young visitors too, with play areas and activity sheets to keep kids well occupied.
Croft Castle, home to the Croft family for almost 1000 years
Step even further back in time at Brockhampton Estate near Bromyard. Enveloped by a whopping 1,700 acres of farmland (21 of which belong to the beautifully restored fruit orchards), the medieval manor at the heart of the property is modest by contrast.
Cross the moat to step into this timberframed house. Wander through bedrooms, butteries, parlours and kitchens – each carefully renovated to reflect a different period in the property’s history.
Iron Age hill fort
Another National Trust treasure, Croft Castle, was home to the Croft family for almost 1,000 years. Walk the rooms in which the family lived, discover their influence on British politics and find out why they lost the castle in 1746 (only to buy it back again 177 years later). Stretch your legs among the 1,500-acre parkland, keeping your eyes peeled for the Iron Age hill fort along the way.
Herefordshire’s arable farmlands have sprung a diversity of artisan food producers. And yes, they’re willing to share! Swing by Monkland Cheese Dairy’s café to nibble a range of fresh Herefordshire cheeses. Accompanied by home-baked bread, Welsh butter and sweet apple chutney, lunch here is
a little slice of heaven.
For grown-ups, a tour of the family owned Westons Cider Mill in Ledbury is about more than a few sips of scrumpy. Housed inside a 17th-century farmhouse, you’ll explore the craft of cider-making from blossom to bottle. A tutored tasting follows the guided tour. Also on-site is Reg the resident shire horse, a children’s play park and restaurant.
Visitors of a more hoppy disposition should book on a tour of Wye Valley Brewery’s nineacre site. Led by an experienced guide, l
L The Forest of Dean I Ledbury, one of many old market towns in Herefordshire
Photos courtesy Andrew Simmonds & John R Jones
Hampton Court Castle you’ll learn why Herefordshire hops are so highly prized. Plus, how the team turns their hops and barley into award-winning ales. The brewery’s beers, including the immensely popular Butty Bach ale and Wye Valley Bitter, await behind the bars of many of the county’s best-loved pubs. This is your opportunity to sip fresh from the source.
Market towns
If your legs were made for walking, why not take on some (or all!) of the 150-mile Herefordshire Trail during your visit? This circular route around the county links the five market towns of Ledbury, Ross-on-Wye, Kington, Leominster and Bromyard. In between, you’ll hike through a picturesque landscape dotted with castle ruins, pretty apple orchards and charming villages. Pack a picnic!
If trekking doesn’t float your boat, you may prefer to take to the water. Relish life in the slow lane with a day’s canoeing up the River Wye. It’s a spectacular way to appreciate Herefordshire’s waterfront beauty. Grab your kit from rental companies like Canoe the Wye or Hereford Canoe Hire, then paddle away your own pace. Needless to say, you should factor in a pub lunch en-route. For those who like the views without the exertion, Kingfisher
Cruises in Ross-on-Wye offers a more handsoff way to enjoy the river.
Family days out are a stitch in Herefordshire. Stretch little legs among the county’s copious kid-friendly attractions, including mazes, petting zoos and go karting tracks. The grounds surrounding Hampton Court Castle are a hole-in-one for inquisitive families. Grown ups may be drawn to history of the estate, but it’s the gardens that are the greatest source of fun.
Public gardens
Open spring to autumn, your first port of call should be the maze. Made from over 1,000 yew trees (they’re tall, so no peeking), your reward for reaching the maze’s centre is a trip to the top of the Gothic tower. Children also love the Sunken Garden, accessible via stepping stones, where there’s a waterfall you can walk behind. A little piece of family magic. Many areas of Hergest Croft Gardens are buggy-friendly, making it easy for parents with prams to admire the many rare plants on display. If your little ones love wildlife, pay a visit to Eastnor Castle’s 300-acre deer park. During your wander, you may spot the herd of red deer who call these hills home. Peace reigns at pretty Kentchurch Court Gardens. The walled gardens and rhododendron woods
have more than a touch of the fairytale about them. Kids go free.
For wow factor that’ll appeal to all ages, head to Ralph Court Gardens near Bromyard. A dozen ‘theatrical’ gardens have been created in the grounds of this Gothic rectory. From a tree-top walkway through an African jungle to a puffing dragon pool (yes, complete with a dragon!) each of the quirky gardens is filled with surprises. A unique world where horticulture meets pure imagination.
Family attractions
The Gruffalo Trail at Queenswood Country Park & Arboretum features sculptures of five characters from the much-loved storybook. Pick up a quiz pack from the visitor centre before setting out on the 1.5-kilometre route. Over near Ross-on-Wye, The aMazing Hedge Puzzle was planted in 1977 and still attracts quest-loving families today. Impeccably maintained, go for old-fashioned family fun. And once you’ve succeeded, get hands-on with puzzles in the Museum of Mazes.
Next door to The aMazing Hedge Puzzle, and with joint tickets available, is the Wye Valley Butterfly Zoo. Enjoy a taste of the tropics in the glasshouse teeming with exotic butterflies. If you’re lucky, one may rest on your shoulder as you pass by. Keep your
eyes peeled for eggs, caterpillars and chrysalis too. You’re welcome to grab a magnifying glass and identification sheet on your way in.
At the other end of the county, there’s animal magic to be found at the Kington Small Breeds Farm Park and Owl Centre. Get nose-to-nose with all manner of furry friends including chipmunks, chinchillas and guinea pigs. Springtime is extra special for the abundance of baby farm animals. The same is true of the farm’s Owl Centre where, during spring and summer, an ‘Owlet Room’ l
L Queenswood Country Park & Arboretum
I Ralph Court Gardens
Eastnor Pottery, Ledbury contains newly hatched owlets. Got energy to burn? Treat your active bunch to a trip around Herefordshire Raceway in Weobley. Satisfy your need for speed on this 600-metre outdoor racecourse, where you can go head-to-head in private groups – an irresistible option for competitive siblings! Age-appropriate karts, safety gear and full briefings will be given before you’re let loose on the circuit.
Family fun
Get your heart pumping at Battlelands
Paintball near the Welsh border. The main arena is suitable for over 11s only. However, younger members of the family are catered for with Splatmaster – same adrenaline-fuelled fun, lower-impact paint guns. Battlelands also offers the ultimate hand-eye coordination test: laser clay shooting. It’s the high-tech cousin of clay pigeon shooting.
Eastnor Pottery in Ledbury is a must for families who like to get stuck into art on their days out. Book a clay modelling workshop and create a unique memento that’ll remind you of your Herefordshire holiday for years to come. Alternatively, take your artistic talents to a pottery painting studio like Glazydayz in Ledbury or Manic Ceramics in Hereford. After your final paintbrush flourish, they’ll
Eastnor Pottery in Ledbury is a must for families who like to get stuck into art on days out
fire your work of art and post it back to you. More indoor family fun can be had with a bowling session at MFA Bowl in Hereford or Grove Golf and Bowl near Leominster. If the name doesn’t give it away, the latter offers an all-ages driving range and mini golf in addition to the eight glitzy bowling lanes. Thrillseekers with a head for heights can clamber to their heart’s content at Green Spider Climbing in Hereford. Taster sessions cater for ages 4+, so even the littlest of monkeys can have a go.
Whether you want nothing more than to enjoy Herefordshire’s unspoiled natural beauty, or are keen to pack your diary with the best local attractions, you’re bound to take home lasting memories of this quintessential English county. ■
DON’T MISS
Our top things to see and do when visiting this picturesque county
1
Outdoor space
Queenswood Country Park & Arboretum, on the A49 towards Leominster, is a wonderful space for getting away from it all and enjoying everything Hereford’s great outdoors has to offer. A fragment of a vast oak wood that once extended to the Welsh borders and beyond, the park’s name was only changed from Kingswood to Queenswood when the late Queen Elizabeth II took the throne.
2
Explore a Castle I
There are plenty to choose from – Goodrich Castle, Croft Castle, Eastnor Castle and Hampton Court Castle which back to the 15th century and boasts spectacular gardens (please check their website for opening times before visiting the castle). The list goes on!
3
Symonds Yat Rock
Visit Symonds Yat Rock and see not just the peregrine falcons wheeling above the Wye, but one of the most quintessentially glorious landscapes – absolutely stunning and unmissable. The spectacular meander of the Wye flanked by lush green fields and dense woodland is a breathtaking reminder of how little this landscape has changed.
4
Fine food & drink
Herefordshire boasts some of the finest food and drink in the country, from salad leaves heading to Michelinstarred restaurants to spirits gracing all the finest bars, the county is home to a wealth of foodie entrepreneurs. Little wonder there are regular food fairs and festivals –from Hereford to Shobdon to Kington to Yarkhill.
5
Festival fever
Herefordshire loves a festival, and in the summer months there’s something for everyone, including a literary festival in Hayon-Wye, the largest poetry festival in the UK in Ledbury and music festivals celebrating everything from dance music (Nozstock) and classical music (Presteigne) to folk (Bromyard) and even a boutique festival (El Dorado).
6
The River Wye I
The fifth longest river in the UK, this magisterial river forms the border between England and Wales for much of its course from Wales to the Severn Estuary. Along the way it offers ample opportunity for a bit of Mr Toad’s ‘messing about in boats’ (in canoes or kayaks) or travelling its length on foot –following the Wye Valley Way from Plynlimon to Chepstow.
7
Myths, legends & folklore
Isolated and remote, Herefordshire offers ample opportunity to imagine a past populated with witches and replete with superstition. Authors have found an endless source of inspiration in the county’s mystical past – from Barbara Erskine’s Lady of Hay to Phil Rickman’s Merrily Watkins series of novels, the folklore, much of it collected in the early 20th century by Ella Leather, has sparked many a plot…
The Wye is the fifth longest river in the UK, & forms the border between England and Wales
8
Monochrome beauty
‘Unrivalled in England’ –this was the verdict of architectural historian Alec Clifton Taylor on the string of stunning black-and-white timbered and half-timbered villages north of Hereford. Visit blackandwhitetrail.org for a detailed map of this 40-mile trail and discover some of the country’s most picturesque, must-see villages.
9
Cider country l
As a predominantly rural and agricultural county with a tradition of giving cider to farmworkers after the harvest, it’s a county with a rich cider history – home to Bulmers (now owned by Heineken) and the familyowned Westons, as well as many smaller producers, among them Tom Oliver, Dunkerton’s, Gwatkins, Ty Gwyn and many more.
10
Rolling hills
Of all its glories, the landscape comes out top –the county has two Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB) within its borders. To the south of the county lies the Wye Valley AONB, home to a quarter of the country’s horseshoe bats! To the north of the county, hugging the Worcestershire border is the Malvern Hills AONB, where you’ll find nature reserves and historic and cultural sites, as well as walking and cycling routes. ■
SHOPPING
Shopaholics will love Herefordshire for its eclectic mix of boho-chic boutiques, high-street staples and quirky independents
Enthusiastic shoppers will meet their match in Herefordshire. Sure, the rural county is famed for its peaceful countryside. However, it’s also home to a thriving city with a distinctive mix of big-name and boutique retailers. Not only that, but branch out from Hereford and you can spread your custom among picturesque market towns, each with a distinctive character reflected in independent shops.
Herefordshire’s only city promises discerning shoppers an enviable roll-call of retailers, big and small.
In 2011, Hereford witnessed the end of
Hereford’s Old Market features a clutch of eateries
an era when the city’s cattle market was relocated out-of-town. Yet, the former site left room for retail opportunity aplenty, soon transforming into a very exciting brand new shopping development. Thus, the Old Market (conversely, located on Newmarket Street) was born. Popular with residents and visitors alike, this small-but-beautifully-formed outdoor complex brings national brands like Next, TK Maxx, Clarks, H&M, Joules, FatFace and Pandora together into one splurgeworthy destination.
The Old Market also features a clutch of
eateries. Nando’s and wagamama may catch your attention, but if you love a good burger we recommend sinking your teeth into Beefy Boys. Born in Hereford, their award-winning meat patties are made with 100 per cent 21-day-aged Hereford beef. A delectable local triumph.
Once you’re well-sated, take a stroll down Widemarsh Street (more on that later) to reach High Town. This wide pedestrianised street is the beating heart of Hereford and chock-full of the county’s biggest retailers. Marks & Spencer, WHSmith, Boots – all are here. Plus, there’s still a chance to show the locals some love every Wednesday, Friday and Saturday when the High Town retail market pops up with all kinds of produce to purchase.
Located slap bang between the Old Market and High Town, Widemarsh Street contains an eclectic bunch of retailers nestled among the bigger brands. There’s the award-winning Beehive Florist, local booze from Secret Bottle Shop and homeware goodies galore courtesy of Printer and Tailor. If you’re in the market for a bargain, charity shops like Blue Cross and Cats Protection are on hand to scratch that itch.
As far as department stores go, Philip Morris & Son is as old-school as they get. Established in 1845, the Tudor-style building on Widemarsh Street has been a staple for many generations of Herefordshire shoppers. Quality country fashions (think Barbour jackets) and home accessories (think Le Creuset) rule the roost. However, there’s lots to choose from. As a unique glimpse into the retail environments of yesteryear, it’s worth popping by just for a browse.
Keep your eyes peeled for a diminutive little alleyway leading off the south side of High Town. This is the easy-to-miss entrance to Church Street, a sparkling jewel in Hereford’s retail crown. Independent shops stand side-by-side in this historic enclave, where craftsmanship and character are favoured above all else. There’s a fantastic choice of cheeses at The Mouse Trap Cheese Shop (many local, of course), craft essentials at Doughty’s Haberdashery and top-tier menswear at Calandras.
It’s also the place for window shopping, with a handful of esteemed jewellers ready to show off their wares. Swing by Osborne Goldsmith and Jewellers, John McKellar Designer Jewellery and, just a short diversion up adjoining East Street, Mike Gell Contemporary British Jewellery. The length of Church Street is peppered with pictureperfect eateries like La Madeleine. And, as you emerge out the southern end of the alley, you’ll come face-to-face with the magnificent
Hereford Cathedral. A fine end to your boutique spree.
Hereford’s Butter Market has undergone something of a renaissance in recent years. The indoor market now thrives with local traders. Your classic cobblers and fishmongers have been met with a new wave of street food outlets and coffee shops. In total there are over 30 individual stalls to choose from, including a few left-field choices like comic book memorabilia and, perhaps most excitingly, a cider-centric micro-pub. ’Tis (by some people’s definition) the West Country, after all. Find the market sandwiched between Maylord Street and High Town.
Herefordshire has resolutely avoided the creation of cookie-cutter towns. Instead individuality shines, making for mighty rewarding shopping trips. Nowhere champions originality quite like Hay-on-Wye.
The picturesque town is home to the most famous literary festival in the country, Hay Festival. Strictly speaking, Hay nudges the Welsh border but its Herefordshire postcode keeps it claimable by both. A ‘book town’ through-and-through, Hay’s streets are packed with old-world shops that hark back to the retail habits of a bygone era.
Anyone who can’t keep their hands off shiny new stationery will be thoroughly tempted at Bartrums & Co Limited. It’s an enchanting little stationery store, shelves heavy with countless pens, pencils and enough notebooks to keep even the most ardent of thespians busy for years. A peruse here is a fine appetiser for what primarily draws visitors from far and wide to Hay: the bookshops.
Heading the list is Richard Booth’s Bookshop. Bibliophiles could get lost for hours among the three floors and fantastic selection of titles. The building itself is a l
L Richard Booth’s Bookshop j The Old Market, Hereford
Our little shop in the heart of Ross-on-Wye is packed full of organic fruit and veg, poultry, beef, pork and lamb, milk, cheese and butter. As well as a wide range of organic groceries including flours, grains, cereals, pasta, soups, herbs and spices, honey, oils and dried fruits. Not only that but we stock a great range of organic champagnes, wines and beers, plus coffees and loose teas.
01989 566683 enquiries@field-fayre.co.uk
18-19 Broad Street, Ross-on-Wye, Herefordshire HR9 7EA field-fayre.co.uk
Market House Ledbury
stunner with vaulted ceilings and charming reading snugs where, if you do get lost, you’ll happily while away the time ’til you’re found. New and second-hand books are available to purchase. And, if all that weren’t enough, the shop has its own 48-seat boutique cinema next door.
Hay is also the home of The Poetry Bookshop, dedicated to all things poetry since 1979. Touring poets pop up here for readings throughout the year – keep an eye on their events calendar. Addyman Books boasts themed rooms and an ever-friendly welcome. The same team own Murder & Mayhem, an atmospheric burrow of books just over the road that’s styled in line with the crime and horror titles on its shelves. Hay Cinema Bookshop and Children’s Bookshop are two more of Hay’s literary treasure troves. Books, boring? Never!
If you can pry yourself away from the books, there are more quirky indies to be found. Visit The Old Electric Shop for new and vintage furniture, lighting and eclectic items. Everything for sale is hand-picked by owner Hannah Burson – perfect for anyone in search of a special something for their home.
More artisanal delights are in store at Eighteen Rabbit – “the coolest Fair Trade outlet ever” according to Condé Nast Traveller
magazine. Named after a Mayan ruler who was a great patron of that arts, Eighteen Rabbit is filled with everything from skincare to homeware.
Fashion and jewellery are taken care of by outlets like Otherworldz, Satori Designs and Number Two. Antique hunters can sniff out a fantastic find among the warren of stalls inside Hay Antique Market. Meanwhile, sweet-toothed shoppers will want to dive headfirst into The Fudge Shop. The old-school sweet shop (complete with glass jars behind the counter) sells all sorts of candy alongside their homemade fudge.
Tinsmiths is an Aladdin’s cave of beautiful fabrics and home accessories, situated on Ledbury’s historic High Street. It’s a lovely spot, and the charm only continues inside with vintage and one-off textiles. It’s no surprise that Tinsmiths tends to be the first stop in the town for homeowners.
However, HUS & HEM is hot on its heels. Tucked up a quaint alley off the High Street, this home and gift shop is a smörgâsbord of Scandinavian style, devoted to the best designs from the region. From felted Glerups slippers (house shoes, if you’re feeling fancy) to Scandinavian confectionery and objects for the home, it’s an appealing blend of practical and decorative. Very l
Scandi, basically.
For foodies, your first port of call should be Ceci Paolo Food and Lifestyle Emporium. The deli celebrates quality ingredients from around the world, with a particular focus on cheeses, cured meats and store cupboard classics. Meanwhile, upstairs is reserved for fashion designers not widely available on the high street. Beautiful brands, premium prices.
Bookworms have the lovely Ledbury Books & Maps to look forward to, green-fingered visitors can pick up a new houseplant at Ledbury Leaf, while all you vinophiles can stock up on the good stuff at The Wine Shed. Nestled through the archways behind The Feathers Hotel yard, the shop’s been familyrun for over 40 years.
South of Ledbury, Ross-on-Wye is another one of this county’s attractive market towns. Exceptional homeware is once again on the cards. Fritz Fryer Lighting isn’t just unique in name.
These lighting specialists sell original, and altogether dazzling, light fittings straight out of an interior design magazine. Just outside of town, Baileys Home is at the go-to store for farmhouse-chic furniture that seamlessly blends beauty and utility.
Among the retail highlights of Ross is Rossiter Books bookshop (which has another Herefordshire branch in Leominster).
Knowledgeable staff and a great range of reads make this indie a firm favourite with literature lovers. If your timing’s spot-on, you might even coincide your visit with one of the great events organised at the bookshop – novelists and poets are frequent guests.
Treat yourself to a tasty snack at two of the town’s top delicatessens: Truffles and Field Fayre. Or, if you’re looking for a memento to take home rather than instantly devour, try the Made in Ross art co-operative where you can purchase hand-crafted items from local artists.
Pick up a pretty accessory at Lizzie Bunting gift shop or the comprehensively stocked Cookshop, home to almost every kitchen utensil imaginable. Big on musical instruments? River Music is the shop for you.
Leominster is a treasure-hunter’s paradise. Spend all day ducking in and out of interesting antique shops like The Barometer Shop, which sells mercurial and aneroid barometers as well as clocks of all descriptions.
The Secondhand Warehouse contains a whopping 12,500 square feet of space dedicated to vintage furniture, while Leominster Antique Market offers more varied surprises among its labyrinthine rooms. Pottery and china, fashion, bric-a-
brac, collectables – you’ll be happily occupied for hours.
And there’s more. No, 14, The Merchants House, Step in Time, Stockmoor Antiques and, a short walk from the centre of town, Pugh’s Antiques – all add up to an unmissable experience for antique hounds.
Yet, although you may be drawn to Leominster for the old, you’ll be pleasantly surprised by the new on offer too. In common with so much of the county, independent shops are a way of life here. You’ll find butchers, bakers and, if not candlestick makers, certainly talented crafters and artists.
Last but by no means least is Bromyard near the Worcestershire border. This market town is the location for one of the county’s best-loved butchers: Legges.
Snap up a sausage roll or meaty slice from the deli on Tenbury Road. Just be ready to queue at lunchtime, word has well and truly spread about these pie-makers extraordinaire. In fact, hungry visitors will more than find their fill in Bromyard thanks to the likes of Lamings Bakery, Loafers Patisserie, Gilbert Fruit & Veg and Brew coffee shop.
The little village of Bishops Frome, five miles south of Bromyard, is the setting for The Hop Pocket. Artisan retailers of all persuasions line this popular shopping village, which has spread to over 20 times its original size since first setting up shop in 1988.
Occasionally nicknamed ‘Little Harrods’ there’s absolutely all sorts to choose from at The Hop Pocket, from a garden centre and gift shop to clothes, shoes, furniture and antiques. Oh, and a food hall for good measure. Did somebody say all-day shopping destination?
Bid farewell to those copycat shopping palaces. Instead, browse your socks off among Herefordshire’s charming, and altogether unique, boutique shops. ■
L The Hop Pocket, Bishops Frome
EATING OUT
Herefordshire is a foodie’s paradise with a host of fantastic restaurants, cafés and pubs – so make sure you bring a healthy appetite
Herefordshire is a playground for food producers, with strong agricultural roots and plenty of fertile farmland. For you, that means an abundance of places to tuck into exceptional local fare. Restaurants, pubs and cafés across the county whip up mouthwatering meals, often with very few food miles under their belt. Herefordshire’s only city boasts restaurants of all shapes and
sizes, from big chains to charming independents.
For fine dining in elegant surroundings, Castle House Hotel fits the bill. Hungarian-born chef Gabor Katona is at the helm here, serving seasonally inspired meals rich with home-grown produce from Ballingham Hall’s farm eight miles down the road. Pedigree Hereford beef, local cheeses and Gabor’s signature sourdough bread all crop
up on ever-changing menus ranging from à la carte dinners to lavish tasting menus. The Sunday roasts are three courses of pure delight. Alternatively, The Hereford Bar and Brasserie is another good option for dining, or for simply enjoying cocktails in the stylish Offa Bar. In the centre of the city, a number of small, independently owned restaurants have built stellar reputations. La Madeleine on
The Michelin-starred Pensons on the Netherwood Estate
Church Street presents a simple menu of classic French food. Out back, a courtyard garden delivers a little slice of Alsace in Hereford. Don’t be fooled by the laid-back appearance of The Den on Bridge Street. The modern British menu spans breakfast through to dinner, chock-full of fine ingredients and understated style.
On Aubrey Street, The Bookshop is famous for its legendary Sunday lunches. Not only are they huge (expect all the trimmings), but there are veggie and gluten-free options alongside the melt-in-the-mouth meats. Wednesday to Saturday evenings are reserved for their steakheavy menu, cooked to perfection courtesy of the restaurant’s prized charcoal oven, ‘Bertha’.
While The Bookshop is beloved by vegetarians and meat-eaters alike, steak really is the sole star of the show at Miller & Carter steakhouse. What this restaurant doesn’t know about beef isn’t worth knowing. Fillet, ribeye, sirloin, whopping great Chateaubriand cuts to share – they’re cooked exactly how you like and served with your choice of sauces and sides. The chefs even have to attend a rigorous ‘Steak School’ before they’re let loose in the kitchen. Meat lovers, meet your perfect match.
Find your fill of top notch eats from around the world on Hereford’s streets. A trio of Thai restaurants, Thai Gallery on Broad Street, Thai Garden on King Street and Simply Thai Kitchen on Owen Street, are sure to quench your pad Thai cravings. All are well-reviewed and offer takeaway too.
Perhaps unsurprisingly for a county with its own breed of cattle, American-style burger joins are big business in Hereford. The city is home to Beefy Boys, whose Hereford beef burgers have picked up prizes left, right and centre. They’re slathered in homemade sauces and encased in buns from local baker, Peter Cook. Sink your teeth into 100 per cent meat patties in their restaurant in the Old Market.
Burgers also take pride of place at the aptly named Burger Shop on
Aubrey Street. Tasty sides and local ciders make it another firm favourite.
When it comes to Italian cuisine, Ponte Vecchio steals the show. Rather than resting on bog standard spaghettis, the family-run trattoria whips up exciting Italian meals that run from the traditional to the more modern – all freshly made by owner Alice (you’ll see her husband, Leonardo, running the front of house). If you can’t make a meal, still pop by for a scoop of something lovely from their gelato freezer.
COTTO pairs quality Italian cooking with classic cocktails. Negroni overlooking the open kitchen? Don’t mind if we do. Mediterrane brings a taste of western Europe to Hereford with a menu that flits between Spanish, French, Italian and Greek. Finally, fish lovers should swim over to The Old Market, where trendy EN Sushi serves up exemplary sushi platters plus steaming bao buns and succulent Korean meats barbecued right at your table!
If you’re looking for a bite to eat during the day, Hereford has many independent cafés to tempt you. Café Miro sits just off the High Street and is a big hit with brunchers.
Expect elevated breakfast favourites and sleek surroundings. Rocket Kitchen Café on Church Street is a surefire favourite for veggies, with rotating daily specials including loaded wraps, quiches and a few cakes too.
King Street Kitchen specialises in fresh sandwiches and salads packed with healthy ingredients. Top coffee, too. Continue along King Street and into the courtyard behind The Left Bank events venue to find De Koffie Pot. Right by the riverside, this allday coffee shop carries a distinctly artsy character and good food to boot. Stick around on a weekend and you may be treated to live music in the courtyard.
Hereford’s premier arts venue, The Courtyard, is a popular destination for pre-theatre meals. However, you don’t have to catch a show to enjoy the tempting selection of quiches, salads and
sandwiches at The Café Bar. Hot meals are available too.
Herefordshire remains a county with plenty of culinary surprises. Follow your nose to the market towns and out-of-theway places, where gastronomic greatness awaits.
One relatively recent addition to Herefordshire’s gourmet landscape is Pensons on the Netherwood Estate. Head chef Chris Simpson leads this Michelin-starred restaurant, where the ethos to eat local is evident in creative plates loaded with fruits and vegetables from the restaurant’s own kitchen garden (which you can visit, by the way). Both à la carte and seasonal tasting menus are available, led by whichever ingredients are currently being farmed on the estate.
The Michelin-recommended Stagg Inn serves quality local produce in friendly pub surroundings. It’s a simple yet award-winning approach which has bagged them ‘Dining Pub of the Year’ in 2020’s Good Pub Guide, having won the National Award twice in the past. Prestigious, not pretentious, the team churn their own ice cream, bake their own bread, butcher their own meat and grow in their own garden.
More accolades line the walls of The Riverside at Aymestrey. Run by celebrated chef Andy Link, this charming 16th-century pub is quaint as a button. The food is something special too. Dishes take inspiration from the Lugg Valley on the doorstep and have earned the pub ‘Best Sustainable Pub 2022’ at the Great British Pub Awards and ‘Herefordshire’s Best Restaurant’ in 2021. Menus span lunch, dinner and Sunday roasts – every single one is popular so book ahead.
Another 16th-century inn, The Oak Wigmore, champions field-tofork dining. Rare breed Hereford beef is a stalwart on the menu – a particularly popular choice for Sunday’s roast lunch. Whether you’re craving tender sirloin or panseared trout, chef Ian Pugh whips up a fine feast. Bonus points for serving cauliflower cheese sides as standard! l
It’s no surprise that celebrated pubs crop up over and over in a county with more than its fair share of countryside. In The Loughpool in Sellack, owners Paul and Svenia Franklin have combined a cosy atmosphere with classic French cuisine. Paul’s light touch is put to great use alongside local ingredients, resulting in dishes like confit Barbury duck with rosemary dauphinoise.
Close by in Upton Bishop, The Moody Cow offers all the welcome of a rural pub but with a menu that’s a cut above the usual pub grub. Nearly everything here is cooked from scratch. Let indulgence take over with options like deep-fried hazelnut brie and slow-roasted pork belly with quince glaze. Sustainability is taken seriously, with their thorough approach to waste, recycling and charity initiatives clearly listed on the website.
In the little village of Walford, The Mill Race enjoys stunning views
towards Goodrich Castle and the Wye Valley. One of the first things you’ll spot as you take your seat is a chalkboard bearing the provenance of your forthcoming meal. Almost all produce is sourced within 30 miles of the pub.
Another village gem is The Crown Inn in Woolhope, just south of Hereford. Run by Matt and Annalisa Slocombe, wholesome pub classics rub shoulders with more refined restaurant-style dishes. Wash everything down with one of the many local ciders behind the bar.
Halfway between Hereford and the Black Mountains, The Kilpeck Inn celebrates award-winning suppliers with a menu of freshly cooked treats like pork tenderloin with pickled walnut and apple stuffing. Make sure to swing by Kilpeck’s famous Romanesque church before or after your meal. A warm pub welcome also awaits at The Live and Let Live, a real ale pub inside one of the oldest
buildings on Bringsty Common. It’s the only thatched pub in all of Herefordshire!
In Pembridge, Sophie Bowen is chef patron of The Cider Barn, a restaurant housed inside a 450-year-old, Grade 2-listed barn. It’s a stunning spot – all oak beams and rolling fields. But the food doesn’t play second fiddle. Menus change with the seasons, but think along the lines of baked sole with butternut fondant or treacle-cured Hereford beef, and you’ll be on the right track.
In the idyllic hamlet of Carey, you’ll find the charmingly named Cottage of Content. This awardwinning restaurant serves both à la carte and tapas menus in a homely environment. A few miles from Carey in the town of Ross-on-Wye, No3 Restaurant has fast made a name for itself with a modern European menu that perfectly straddles the line between fine dining and friendly. It’s open for both light lunches and dinner. l
The Stagg Inn; quality local produce in friendly pub surroundings
For one of the most adventurous dining experiences in the area, stop a whisker before the Worcestershire border at Green Cow Kitchens in Whitbourne. The restaurant (a converted pig shed, though you’d never know it) is open to the public for dinner Thursday to Saturday, plus a popular and hearty Sunday lunch.
Monthly tasting menus celebrate tip-top produce foraged and farmed from around the Whitbourne Estate, through which you drive to reach the restaurant. Think partridge, wild garlic, elderberries, plums, partridge and meaty puffball mushrooms.
Although you need never step foot outside of this county for an outstanding meal, there are a few gems just beyond Herefordshire’s borders. Combine your day out with a delicious dinner at Restaurant 1861, The Hardwick or The Walnut Tree restaurants – all surrounding the Welsh town of Abergavenny.
In the ‘book town’ of Hay-on-
Wye, The Salad Project is a great place to stop for lunch in between all your bookshop browsing. There are oodles of options for vegetarians and vegans alike.
If you’d like to follow it up with a little indulgence, treat yourself to an artisanal scoop (or two!) of locally made ice cream from Shepherd’s Parlour. The Bean Box, a café situated right next to the River Wye, is a favourite for cake.
For a flavourful lunch in Leominster, pop by Café Saverys. Simple favourites like macaroni cheese are on the menu, as well as a selection of paninis. While most punters flock to Coffee#1 for, you guessed it, coffee, you can also pick up savoury sarnies and some seriously moreish cakes. Peckish for the best bacon rolls in town? Breakfast at Roys Café is a no-brainer.
Ledbury isn’t short of cafés and The Malthouse leads the pack. This tucked-away gem is partgallery, part-brunch spot. Enter
through the archway off Church Lane and dig into the likes of eggs Benedict, bakery-fresh sandwiches and haddock chowder. Just outside of town, The Nest at Little Verzons Farm is home to one of Herefordshire’s most in-demand snacks: the handmade Scotch egg. Enjoy yours piping hot from the food hut or packaged to take home from the farm shop.
Other top cafés around the county include vegan Pot & Page in Ledbury, Aardvark Books & Café in Bucknell, Border Bean in Kington and The Green Bean in Weobley. Major attractions like Croft Castle, Kenchester Water Gardens and the Malvern Hills GeoCentre also feature their own tea rooms – the perfect way to satisfy your stomach amongst all the sightseeing.
Firmly rooted in local soil, Herefordshire’s culinary landscape is shaped by passionate producers. Together, they create a dining destination as characterful as it is delectable. Dig in. ■
The Walnut Tree Inn, Abergavenny
Only here for the weekend? Fear not! Here are some ideas for a memorable short break to Herefordshire
WEEKENDER
DAY ONE
Start with the building that dominates the city skyline, the cathedral. Dating to 1079, its most famous treasure is the Mappa Mundi, which depicts how 13thcentury scholars saw the world both spiritually and geographically. Here, too, you’ll find the Chained Library where the oldest chained book, The Hereford Gospels, dates back to the 8th century.
More recent but just as unmissable are Tom Denny’s four stained glass windows dedicated to Thomas Traherne, installed in 2007, and the stunning SAS memorial window, Ascension, designed by John Maine.
A narrow road running beside the cathedral towards the river is reputedly the birthplace of Nell Gwynne, actress, orange seller and mistress of King Charles II.
Walk back into the city centre through historic Church Street – Edward Elgar was a frequent visitor to No 20 – stopping off at Rocket Kitchen for a mid-morning coffee – and emerge into High Town, where, if you look to your right you’ll see the incongruous sight of The Old House, a 17thcentury timbered building that’s now The Black and White House Museum. Pop in for an insight into daily life in Jacobean times before taking the weight off with lunch at Café Miró in St Owen’s Street.
From here, you can switch to a bit of very 21st-century retail therapy on Commercial Street or head across the city to the Museum of Cider for a taste of the history of the drink that’s become synonymous with the county. Then retrace your steps and end your
sightseeing with afternoon tea at the very elegant Castle House Hotel.
DAY TWO
Herefordshire unfolds before the visitor in an endless vista of rolling green fields and unspoiled wooded hillsides, with one of the UK’s most beautiful rivers running through it, so why not book a canoe and spend
the morning exploring this glorious landscape from the water? Pick up your canoe at Hereford Canoe Hire at Lucksall in Fownhope and paddle your way to Hoarwithy –stop for lunch at The New Harp Inn before heading on down to Rosson-Wye.
Then, having seen Herefordshire from the water, why not enjoy it on foot and head for a spot which will reveal the county in all its glories? A walk up Garway Hill rewards you with breathtaking views in every direction, not just of Herefordshire,
A narrow road running beside the Cathedral towards the river is reputedly the birthplace of Nell Gwynne
but beyond to May Hill in Gloucestershire, to Hay Bluff and to the west, you’ll see The Sugar Loaf and Skirrid mountains in the foothills of the Black Mountains.
Close to the top of the hill is Black Pool, which, though it has no obvious water source, never runs dry, and then, on the very top, are the remains of a Second World War radio tracking station, erected in 1942 by order of the RAF and offering shelter to walkers if it gets a bit blowy! ■
Cathedral. A place of worship has existed on the site of the present building since the 8th century
Hereford
Culture vultures assemble! This county offers the perfect mix of galleries, museums, exhibitions and festivals
Culture Club
Herefordshire has a steady hand when it comes to crafting its own entertainment. In fact, it’s the county’s secluded setting that makes it so creative. Home to worldfamous book festivals, pioneering theatre groups and local history museums, you don’t have to travel far for a taste of this county’s culture.
Any exploration of Herefordshire’s cultural attributes must begin with the jewel in the county’s crown: The Courtyard. Situated in the cathedral city of Hereford, The Courtyard hosts a huge range of arts events. Live
theatre leads the way but you could equally snap up a ticket to a dance show, musical performance, art exhibition or comedy night. The Courtyard also supports a thriving Youth Theatre, making it a key part of Hereford’s community as well as a hub for culture-hungry visitors.
Elsewhere in the county, Ledbury’s Market Theatre has a history hundreds of years in the making. The town’s relationship with theatre is deeply tied to the Ledbury Amateur Dramatic Society, which runs the theatre and has been going strong since 1938. Film, music
and live screenings join a healthy roster of dramatic productions. Another top town theatre is the volunteer-run Conquest Theatre in Bromyard. Their in-house drama group regularly performs in addition to touring favourites.
But you don’t have to rely on all the big towns for entertainment. Arts Alive and Flicks in the Sticks are two fantastic initiatives that bring big-screen movies and theatrical productions to remote locations around Herefordshire. Why? To reach communities who may not otherwise have easy access
Arts Alive and Flicks in the Sticks bring movies and theatre to remote locations around Herefordshire
to the arts. There’s something very special about watching their touring shows light up the local village hall.
One of the many joys of a bucolic county is the setting it provides for outdoor theatre companies. Companies like Rain or Shine Theatre Company and Chapterhouse Theatre, who host al-fresco performances in one-of-akind locations.
Regular venues in Herefordshire include Hampton Court Castle, Dore Abbey and Castle Green park. Look out too for the Hereford County Drama Festival. Local am-dram groups go head-to-head, performing one-act shows in front of a professional adjudicator. Excitingly, scores are given in front of the live audience immediately after!
As the one-time home of composer Edward Elgar (you can still see a statue of him leaning against his bicycle in the grounds of Hereford Cathedral), Herefordshire has a thriving musical life. Together with Gloucester and Worcester Cathedrals, Hereford Cathedral
The Courtyard hosts a
huge
range of arts events
hosts The Three Choirs Festival –the oldest festival of choral music in the world.
If your visit doesn’t coincide with this special occasion, don’t worry. The cathedral enjoys regular concerts by Hereford Choral Society and its own cathedral choir – reportedly the first Anglican cathedral choir to be invited to sing in the Vatican!
Herefordshire, a rural county through-and-through, doesn’t need giant stadiums. Instead, music festivals bring much excitement (and big-name acts) to fields around the county. One of the best
is Nozstock: The Hidden Valley at the end of July. Inspired by a family barbecue, this family-friendly festival has blossomed into one of the most popular independent arts festivals in the UK.
Bromyard Folk Festival in September is a must for traditional music fans, when Morris dancers and fiddle players take over this quiet market town. The 300-acre deer park at Eastnor Castle is the setting for two music festivals: Lakefest and El Dorado. It’s a stunning site. Lakefest features big headliners while El Dorado Festival is the colourful brainchild of travelling party planners, Cirque Du Soul.
Cooling things down a notch, Presteigne Festival takes place every August in the Welsh Marches on the Herefordshire/Powys border. Natural beauty and artistic expression combine over six musicfilled days, showcasing classical masterpieces and contemporary works. This cultural festival has a long-standing tradition of supporting young composers. l
The Courtyard, Hereford
Visit Hereford Cathedral and join a tour led by an experienced guide, take part in one of many services and events or visit the Cathedral Café which serves a selection of seasonal lunches, salads and sandwiches.
A trip to the cathedral would not be complete without a visit to the Mappa Mundi & Chained Library Exhibition which, alongside historic treasures, hosts special displays curated by the Library & Archives team.
Coningsby Hospital and Museum
In 1614 Sir Thomas Coningsby founded almshouses for twelve ex-servicemen and their chaplain on three sides of a courtyard with the early 13thC Chapel of the Knights Hospitallers of St. John of Jerusalem completing the quadrangle. The Chapel building also now houses the St. John Medieval Museum holding a collection of armour, models, diorama and objects connected with the Order of St. John including the St. John Ambulance and tells the story of Coningsby Hospital.
Opening Times April to October annually: Wednesday and Saturday 11am to 3pm
From contemporary exhibits to centuries-old artefacts, Herefordshire’s proud heritage is on display for all to see.
Canwood Gallery, nestled in the middle of Herefordshire countryside, is well worth the detour. The off-thebeaten-path scenery and fine art on display stir the senses, both inside the gallery and around the adjoining sculpture park.
The gallery was conceived in the 1970s by Stephen Dale, a criticallyill farmer who visited London’s Tate Gallery as an escape from his experimental treatments. He was inspired by the art on display and the rest is history. Canwood Gallery remains free to visit, however donations are welcome.
To the north of the county is another gallery run by a farmer. Greenstage Gallery, inside The Hop Pocket shopping village, offers affordable art primarily by local artists. Its exhibits reflect founder Will Pudge’s love of colour. Expect varied statement pieces across
multiple mediums.
Hereford Art Gallery is currently undergoing renovation to its Grade 2-listed building. Doors aren’t due to open again until mid-2025. However, Apple Store Gallery is ready to step in, quenching the appetite of art-hungry visitors with a rolling programme of exhibitions.
Other galleries around the county include The Old Chapel Gallery in Pembridge, Take 4 Gallery in Ledbury and Kington’s Made in the Marches Gallery, showcasing regional talent.
If you prefer your art al fresco, Hereford City Sculpture Trail takes you through the city’s streets and along both banks of the River Wye, tracking down sculptural gems. From cast-iron drinking fountains to a statue of the first ever woman to be awarded the George Cross, the nearly four-mile route is a wonderful way to explore the city.
Love to get hands-on with art? Many makers offer workshops where you can learn a new skill. There’s silk
screen printing in Ledbury at Sunny Todd Prints, beginner-friendly leather workshops at Williams Handmade in Dilwyn, plus potter’s wheel courses at Eastnor Pottery on the beautiful Eastnor Castle country estate.
Step back in time among Herefordshire’s museums, each focused on a unique aspect of life in this western county. The Museum of Cider in Hereford details the county’s deep relationship with cider-making. Discover how the production process has evolved over centuries and gawp at old factory equipment. Get a free sample at the gift shop.
In the city centre, the Black and White House Museum is your opportunity to wander through a timbered Jacobean property, filled with Civil War artefacts.
Before you leave Hereford, pay a visit to the beautiful Hereford Cathedral. Not only will you be wowed by the stained glass windows, but the church is l
The Canwood Gallery is well worth a detour
home to one of England’s cultural cornerstones: the Mappa Mundi. This 13th-century map, the largest medieval world map in existence, lends remarkable insight into how scholars at that time understood the world around them. See the treasure for yourself in the cathedral’s exhibition. Tickets also include entry to the Chained Library, where valuable manuscripts remain secured to the shelves by chains.
Leominster and Ledbury both boast local museums. From farming tools to 18th-century high streets, archival photographs to important paintings, an array of artefacts bring these towns’ bygone eras to life.
A new-fangled attraction in Rosson-Wye is the Museum Without Walls – an augmented reality trail where you use your phone to uncover the town’s lost buildings.
When it comes to castles, visitors are spoiled for choice. Take your pick from National Trust’s Croft Castle, the remains of medieval
Goodrich Castle, lavish Eastnor Castle with its family-friendly grounds, or the ruins of Longtown Castle surrounded by rolling hills.
The exquisite gardens at Hampton Court Castle feature a yew tree maze where, in the centre, a Gothic tower awaits with panoramic views. Don’t spend too long inside –the Sunken Garden nearby contains a waterfall you can walk behind!
Herefordshire is a big player in the world of words. Hay Festival takes over Hay-on-Wye every spring in a no-holds-barred literature bonanza. A dizzying lineup of authors, thinkers, poets and politicians brings thousands of people together for two weeks. Full of food for the brain, it’s one of the biggest literary events on the calendar.
As if one major literary festival wasn’t enough, Herefordshire also hosts the UK’s largest poetry festival. Ledbury Poetry Festival is a verse-filled week that takes place early summer. Chock-full of
live readings, poetry slams, family events and more, it’s a joy to watch poetry spill off the page and into Ledbury’s streets.
Smaller in scale, but running year-round, are author events organised by Rossiter Books in Ross-on-Wye and Leominster. Best-selling authors Kate Atkinson, Patrick Gale and Kate Mosse have been among past visitors.
Ledbury Books also runs occasional events. However, for the greatest selection of literary goings-on, you have to return to Hay-on-Wye. The so-called ‘town of books’ has over 20 bookshops to its name spanning poetry, antiques, maps, crime, music and children’s literature. Book worms, this is the town for you.
Explore Herefordshire’s artistic roots in the county’s vibrant museums, theatres and galleries. However, an action-packed festival scene is sure to tempt you into Herefordshire’s more rural corners. ■
Hay Festival takes over Hay-on-Wye every Spring
The night-time economy in Herefordshire is thriving, packed with clubs, pubs, bars and live music venues
After dark
It may not be the club capital of the West Midlands, but Herefordshire’s warm welcome extends to its cosy pubs and cosmopolitan bars. The cathedral city of Hereford is undoubtedly at the heart of the action, home to a choice of late-night hangouts. However, live music venues and a thriving festival calendar provide plenty of opportunities to let your hair down in all corners of the county.
Festival season hits Hereford hard. And, in between the main stage mayhem, local theatres plug the gap with electric live performances.
On the border between England and Wales, the little town of Hay-on-Wye boasts big literary credentials. Famous for its secondhand bookshops, literary lovers also have Hay Festival to look forward to in late spring. Daytime book readings (it’s not unusual to find big-name authors like Margaret Atwood, Neil Gaiman and Bernadine Evaristo on the line-up) spill over into a brilliant music and comedy line-up after dusk. Planning to visit later in the year? There’s the Hay Festival Winter Weekend in November too.
In the summer, Herefordshire’s fields come alive with festival fun. Kicking things off is Nozstock: The Hidden Valley, widely acknowledged to be one of the best family-friendly festivals in the UK. It wears its independent soul with pride, fusing musical performances with an all-are-welcome approach to entertainment. That means late-night DJ sets, circus acts, disco takeovers – all scattered around surprising areas of the woodland site. Started over 20 years ago by a father-daughter team, Nozstock is a festival at the top of its game.
The Gipsy Kings at Hay Festival
The grounds of Eastnor Castle host two festivals: Lakefest and El Dorado Festival. Distinctly familyoriented, daytimes at Lakefest are a blend of fairground rides and outdoor activities, while at night you can put your hands up to bands like Supergrass, UB40 and The Kaiser Chiefs. El Dorado, on the other hand, channels pure escapism with a hidden jungle vibe and heavy focus on dance music.
Small but always a sell-out, Linton Festival sets up shop at The Alma Inn near Ross-on-Wye. It sprung into life in 2001 when a handful of pub regulars figured it would be cheaper to book the band they wanted to see rather than hire a minibus.
They added a few more names to the wish list, cracked open some beers and Linton Festival was born. The commitment to good music and great beer hasn’t wavered. Every year the festival raises thousands of pounds for local charities.
As summer fades, there’s one final festival hurrah. Bromyard Folk Festival is an all-out celebration of traditional music, wrapped up into a single September weekend. Expect fiddles, clogs, Morris dancers and spontaneous music breakouts down the pub. The much-loved festival has been running for over 50 years –here’s to another 50 more.
As well as the multiplex giants,
Herefordshire is home to a selection of independent cinemas. The Loft Cinema in Hereford has nailed the art of intimate movie-going. Reclining sofas, delicious pizzas and, be still our beating hearts, a proper intermission. Also in Hereford, The Courtyard incorporates a comfortable 120-seat cinema into its all-round arts centre.
The boutique Richard Booth’s Bookshop Cinema in Hay-on-Wye delivers a magical movie-going experience. Stake your claim on one of the 48 seats and feel like a VIP all night long. For the comfiest sofas around, make a beeline for The Gateway Cinema in Rosson-Wye. Nab a front row seat and you’ll even get a footstool! This independent cinema screens a blend of blockbusters, cult classics and live-streamed events too.
Keep your eyes peeled for Outdoor Cinema, which arranges alfresco film experiences at Hereford Racecourse. Screenings tend to take place during the balmy summer evenings, but you can expect the occasional Halloween special too. Bring your own deckchairs and snuggle down to watch a classic film in a lovely location.
The Courtyard in Hereford is the county’s cultural epicentre, where an action-packed programme of theatre, comedy, visual art and family events caters to all ages. A modern
glass-fronted foyer welcomes you into the building, but the main auditorium is draped in classic reds. Box seats, too! Grab a bite to eat at The Café Bar before the show.
The Market Theatre in Ledbury is a bustling venue that’s always a pleasure to visit. There’s a great view from every seat in the small-butperfectly-formed theatre. Owned by Ledbury Amateur Dramatic Society (LADS), the history of theatre in this market town is a rich one. Look out for the Victorian posters in the foyer, advertising a theatrical event at Ledbury Town Hall from March 5th, 1807.
Herefordshire sees its fair share of musical shindigs in pubs around the county. The Yew Tree in Peterstow puts on musical weekenders – a welcome accompaniment to the stonking selection of ciders fresh from Ross on Wye Cider & Perry Company. Friday nights are for music fans at The Golden Cross Inn in Sutton St Nicholas. Meanwhile, jazz lovers should make a date at The Old Black Lion in Hay to toe-tap along to endof-the-week jazz sessions.
Catch up-and-coming talent at The Globe at Hay, where open mic nights regularly take over the venue’s main hall. There are also scheduled acts nearly every weekend. Past artists have spanned punk rock, funk, tribute bands and 90s DJ sets. At the Bull Ring Inn in Kingstone village, music and a lively atmosphere combine to create great nights out the last Saturday of each month.
If you’re not a night owl but don’t want to forgo the good times, Sunday afternoons at the Grape Vaults pub in Leominster and The Prince of Wales in Ledbury should hit the spot. Acts take to the stage after the traditional roast lunches.
Don’t be fooled by its laidback charms. The riverside city of Hereford is able to whip up a storm when the sun goes down. Ibiza it’s not, but Hereford has plenty to appeal to party animals.
The Venue on Gaol Street, open until 4am on weekends, caters to all kinds of musical tastes across two dance floors. Expect l
The Courtyard Centre, Hereford
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an eclectic mix of drum and bass, R’n’B and dance anthems. Speaking of weekends, Play is the largest nightclub in town with top DJs that pull in party-loving crowds every Friday and Saturday. There are two rooms to choose from, the second of which carries a more intimate vibe.
If you’re a child of the eighties, you’ll have a blast at Rubix. This Union Street bar is devoted entirely to the decade that gave us epic hits by Wham, Chaka Khan and Adam Ant. The songs are cheesy, the dance floor is open, nobody is judging.
Hereford proves that an excellent night out can begin (and end!) in a cracking pub. One drinking den that more than fits the bill is The Barrels, the original home of Wye Valley Brewery. Without doubt it’s one of the city’s top drinking dens, thanks in no small part to the traditional vibe. The quality of the brews speak for themselves. Housed inside an 18th-century coaching inn, the icing on the cake is a lovely beer garden out back.
Hereford’s first micro pub, Beer in Hand, is a worthy contender for the best pub in Hereford title. Independently-owned, CAMRA award-winning and with a stonking selection of locally-produced ciders, spirits and beers all on the menu – what’s not to love? Look out for pizza and quiz nights to squeeze every last drop out of this gem.
The Lichfield Vaults is a classic city centre pub, complete with hearty grub, wood-panelled walls and roaring fires in the winter. Even better, it’s a mere minute’s walk from Hereford Cathedral. Easy-peasy to factor in after your day’s sightseeing. The Black Lion, Saracens Head and The Stables are other no-frills favourites where a warm atmosphere and traditional ales reign supreme. Or if cocktails are more your thing, why not try the stylish Offa Bar, in the Hereford Bar and Brasserie?
Not content with simply serving first-rate bevvies, pubs and bars throughout Hereford frequently
bring live music into the fold. Bands take to the stage every Friday and Saturday night at Gordon Bennetts Bar on St Peter’s Square. Entry is always free, which means you can save your pennies to splash out on that second pint of Butty Bach ale. You’ll certainly be in good company.
Colourful and lively, Babar Café on Union Street is on a mission to expand Hereford’s live music offering. Try open mic nights or swing by their regular reggae parties. The house rum punch will have you dancing in no time.
Live music can also be found at De Koffie Pot, a riverside café part of The Left Bank events venue. It’s particularly special in the summer months when you can cosy up by the courtyard fire pit to soak up the musical talent coming to you live from the bandstand.
The home of good-time pubs, boutique theatres and a first-rate festival scene, there’s nothing basic about rural Herefordshire’s nighttime attractions. ■
Enjoy live music by the riverside at De Koffee Pot, Hereford
Although Herefordshire has more than enough to keep you busy, a journey further afield can make for an exciting new adventure
Time to explore
Wherever you base yourself on a visit to Herefordshire, the very location of the county, deep in the heart of the country itself, means that an hour or so in any direction will find you in either a big city –Cardiff, Birmingham, Bristol and Gloucester are all in easy reach – or another county with landscapes as beautiful as Herefordshire.
Cardiff, Birmingham and Bristol all offer a different experience –Cardiff not only has great shopping in the St David’s centre, but also has an exciting programme of cultural events at the Wales Millennium Centre – even if you don’t buy tickets to see a show, the building itself is worth a visit, and Dr Who was shot here! The Welsh capital also boasts a castle and, of course, the Principality Stadium, host to major sporting and music events all year round.
Birmingham and Bristol are equally rich in retail therapy and entertainment opportunities – both have fabulous shopping malls –Cabot Circus in Bristol and Bullring & Grand Central in Birmingham, with loads of other attractions on offer. The SS Great Britain, Clifton Suspension Bridge and We The Curious are among the most popular in vibrant Bristol, while in Birmingham the Symphony Hall and Birmingham Hippodrome offer a wealth of entertainment.
The Regency spa town, and capital of the Cotswolds, Cheltenham, is quickly reached and is famed for both the Cheltenham Festival (four days of jump racing) and for its elegant Regency buildings. It also hosts annual literary and jazz festivals.
Stop off in Gloucester en route to Cheltenham and you’ll be rewarded with the prospect of one of the
country’s most complete Victorian ports, where you’ll find both history – at the National Waterways Museum – and outlet shopping at Gloucester Quays.
But if you’ve come to Herefordshire for the peace and quiet and an escape from city life, there’s more to be found across the county’s borders. Head for Ludlow, with its historic castle, independent shops and award-winning Ludlow Farmshop, or go west into Wales and mosey around the streets of Abergavenny, home to the worldfamous Abergavenny Food Festival, or take a more challenging walk up the Skirrid or Sugar Loaf, imposing hills on the edge of the Black Mountains and the Bannau Brycheiniog (formerly Brecon Beacons) National Park.
Monmouth is just over 15 miles from Hereford, and barely a whisker out of the county. It’s a town that has, at various times in its history, hopped backwards and forwards into and out of Wales. From here, a short drive will take you to the magnificent and beautiful Tintern Abbey, a popular stop on the Victorians’ ‘picturesque’ tours of the Wye Valley.
Beyond Abergavenny, you’ll find Big Pit National Coal Museum, a real mine giving a fascinating glimpse into life underground. Experience for yourself what it was like to head 300ft below ground, complete with safety kit, helmet and lamp, and hear first-hand from a former miner how life really was at the coalface.
A curious mix of isolation and being at the heart of the country ensures that wherever you go from Herefordshire, you’ll soon discover somewhere that begs to be explored. ■
Clifton Suspension Bridge, Bristol
PHOTO-FINISH
Symonds Yat, Wye Valley
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