Welcome to Ireland's Ancient East by Kingfisher Visitor Guides

WELCOME TO

IRELAND’S ANCIENT EAST THE REGION’S BEST ATTRACTIONS | DINING | SHOPPING | NIGHTLIFE | CULTURE

READ THIS GUIDE ONLINE OR DISCOVER MORE OF THE UK & IRELAND AT KINGFISHERVISITORGUIDES.COM NOT FOR SALE | PLEASE DO NOT REMOVE

See Exquisite Pieces of Crystal manufactured before your eyes Guided Factory Tours Daily

C: +353 (0) 51 317000 E: houseofwaterfordcrystal@fiskars.com W: www.waterfordvisitorcentre.com

HOUSE OF WATERFORD CRYSTAL | PROMOTION

House of Waterford Crystal See exquisite pieces of Crystal manufactured before your eyes

luxury collection of the finest crystal is made by skilled craftsmen at the House of Waterford Crystal factory situated in the heart of Waterford City, in Ireland’s Ancient East. A significant visitor attraction, the House of Waterford Crystal welcomes 210,000 visitors annually from across the world. Guided factory tour On the tour, visitors witness mould making – a technique at Waterford that has remained unchanged throughout the centuries. Master Blowers shape the molten crystal flawlessly with the use of wooden moulds and hand tools. The next part of the tour is truly magical. Visitors enter the blowing department watching glowing balls of crystal transformed into majestic shapes as they are put through the 1,400-degree furnace. Waterford Crystal pieces are hand marked for precision and accuracy, and they are then cut, sculpted and engraved. Skills have passed from master to apprentice. Fresh ideas have reinvigorated iconic sparkling cuts in contemporary ways. While getting this behind the scenes sneak peak of this highly skilled method of crystal manufacturing, visitors also see the high standards that the +353 (0)51 317000

KINGFISHERVISITORGUIDES.COM

House of Waterford Crystal has for each piece that leaves the factory. Visitors next witness the cutting department. The Master Cutter must rely on his own skill to judge the amount of pressure that is required to hold the crystal to the wheel; too much pressure will cause a cut through to the other side. Each of our craftsmen has trained for a minimum of eight years to master their craft. They are responsible for giving each piece the clear and sparkling cut that is the distinctive hallmark of Waterford Crystal. The final stages of the tour are the engraving and sculpting departments. The Master Sculptors at Waterford work threedimensionally, using their skill to sculpt the desired piece from a solid block of crystal. Days, weeks and even months can pass before a sculpted piece is completed. The type of copper wheel engraving used at Waterford Crystal is called ‘Intaglio’, which means reverse. It can take from hours to days to complete the engraving on many of our international sporting trophies and limitededition inspiration pieces. Retail store and brand experience Visitors can experience over 12,000 square feet of crystal heaven in the largest retail and

HOUSEOFWATERFORDCRYSTAL@FISKARS.COM

“The House of Waterford Crystal visitor attraction welcomes 210,000 visitors annually from across the world” showcase of Waterford Crystal in the world. The retail store has the complete range of products on display, including a showcase on world sporting trophies. There is a world-wide shipping service and tax-free shopping available. The team can offer personal shopping and the in-house engraver can personalize Waterford gifts. The Crystal Café The Crystal Café serves delicious breakfast and lunch options, freshly baked pastries, sweet treats and coffee and also offers a wonderful afternoon tea experience. It consists of three courses – scones served with cream and jam, delicious savoury sandwiches and an array of decadent dessert. Wine and champagne afternoon tea options are available, and special dietary variations can be prepared with advance notice.

WATERFORDVISITORCENTRE.COM

WELCOME TO IRELAND’S ANCIENT EAST

KINGFISHERVISITORGUIDES.COM

©IRE DRONEPHOTOGRAPHY/STOCK.ADOBE.COM

First look The disused Carrigfoyle Quarry in Barntown, County Wexford

WELCOME TO IRELAND’S ANCIENT EAST

Visit Enniscorthy's top attractions! In the Heart of Co. Wexford!

MANAGING DIRECTOR

The home of Norman knights, English armies, Irish Rebels, prisoners and merchants

Ian David Heads ian.heads@kingfishermedia.co.uk COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR Ian Sinclair ian.sinclair@kingfishermedia.co.uk EDITORIAL TEAM World Words info@world-words.com HEAD OF DESIGN Becky Abdy becky.abdy@kingfishermedia.co.uk

Explore town history, local industry, the work of Eileen Grey and special temporary exhibitions

Castle Hill, Enniscorthy Co. Wexford Y21AW90 (053) 9234699 www.enniscorthycastle.ie info@enniscorthycastle.ie

SENIOR DESIGNER Ashleigh Cook ashleigh.cook@kingfishermedia.co.uk DESIGN Ryan Fenwick • Sarah Greenall PRODUCTION MANAGER

Fanned by the flames of Revolution in America and France, the events of 1798 are etched forever on Irish history!

Ashleigh Walker ashleigh.walker@kingfishermedia.co.uk HEAD OF ACCOUNTS Joanne James joanne.james@kingfishermedia.co.uk ADVERTISING ACCOUNT MANAGERS Shauna Dean • Leanne Hopper Gemma Marrin • Hannah Osborne Susan Pearson • Morgan Sinclair Dawn Tinkler • Lynne Walls GENERAL ENQUIRIES info@kingfishermedia.co.uk Tel: 0191 482 5799

Our award winning, interactive exhibition brings history to life right before your eyes! Mill Park Road, Enniscorthy Co. Wexford, Y21PY03 (053) 9237596

WWW.KINGFISHERVISITORGUIDES.COM

WE’RE SUPPORTING:

www.1798centre.ie info@1798centre.ie

The most famous and bloodiest battlefields of the 1798 Rebellion!

KINGFISHERVISITORGUIDES.COM

Offering spectacular panoramic views of Enniscorthy town and the river Slaney. Free to visit all year round.

KVGWTIAE-0422-68-10501A-MLG-BA

Vinegar Hill Lane Templeshannon Enniscorthy, Co. Wexford www.vinegarhill.ie info@1798centre.ie

Printed by McAllister Litho Glasgow Ltd Published by Kingfisher Media Ltd PUBLISHER’S NOTE: This publication, its title and content, is wholly owned by and the copyright of Kingfisher Media Ltd. It is entirely independent and does not endorse, and is not supported or endorsed by, any official or private body or organisation. Reproduction in whole or in part by any means without written permission from the publisher is strictly forbidden. The publisher accepts no responsibility for errors, omissions or the consequences thereof. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for the views expressed by contributors, or for the accuracy of claims made by advertisements appearing in this publication. FRONT COVER IMAGE: BALLYDOWANE BEACH, COUNTY WATERFORD ©CRISTI/STOCK.ADOBE.COM STOCK IMAGES HAVE BEEN USED IN THIS PUBLICATION FOR ILLUSTRATIVE PURPOSES

Contents

©DAVID PRADO/JAMIE/STOCK.ADOBE.COM; NEVIN CODY/@SHENANIGANSWALKS/WELLS HOUSE AND GARDEN/ FÁILTE IRELAND/IRELAND’S CONTENT POOL; WATERFORD CITY & COUNTY COUNCIL/VISITWATERFORD.COM

09 Welcome A region of stunning Irish heritage, sequestered mountain ranges and captivating coastlines.

12 Love Ireland’s Ancient East There are many reasons to love it here – try some of these for starters.

14 History & heritage Discover a region renowned for its fascinating and ancient past.

18 Days out You’ll never be short of things to do and places to explore here, with plenty of top attractions for all the family to enjoy.

34 Weekender Our two-day driving route covers Kilkenny, Waterford City, Hook Head and Wexford town.

36 Shopping Boho-chic boutiques, high street staples and quirky independents – it’s all here.

WELCOME TO IRELAND’S ANCIENT EAST

CONTENTS

42 Eating out From ramen to risotto and vegan to steakhouse, every type of food lover is catered for here.

48 Arts & culture Ireland’s Ancient East is full of inspiring arts and culture and overflowing with festivals and exhibitions.

54 After dark Stylish bars, cosy pubs, live music and jumping clubs – Ireland’s Ancient East really comes alive after dark.

58 Things to do Make sure you don’t leave here without checking out these must-see attractions.

60 Sport & leisure There are plenty of opportunities to participate in sport here – but those who prefer to watch are well-catered for too.

62 Travel Getting here couldn’t be simpler and visitors can also get around with ease.

64 Beyond this region Although this region has more than enough to keep you busy, a journey further afield can make for an exciting new adventure.

66 Photo finish A final look at the beautiful region of Ireland’s Ancient East – Comeragh Mountains, County Waterford.

©CLIVE BARDA/ARENAPAL/FÁILTE IRELAND/IRELAND’S CONTENT POOL; KBBEGGS/MARA ZEMGALIETE/STOCK.ADOBE.COM; LA CÔTE

KINGFISHERVISITORGUIDES.COM

WELCOME TO IRELAND’S ANCIENT EAST

YOUR TRUSTED ENERGY & CARBON CONSULTANCY SERVICE Kingfisher Utilities offers engineering-level consultancy services to measure and reduce your business’ carbon footprint and energy use, then provides you with a plan to achieve your business’ net-zero ambitions.

Our services include: • Carbon footprint to greenhouse gas protocol Scope 1, Scope 2 and Scope 3 • Carbon emission and energy efficiency audits based on your actual energy use • Create a net-zero emissions plan and costed programme with the key steps to action

Take a step in the right direction by using our CARBON FOOTPRINT CALCULATOR today!

• Electricity and gas supply advice and procurement service, particularly green electricity • Energy management service to international standard ISO 50001 • Advice on electric vehicle charging solutions and self-generation of electricity • Answering questions you have about your business energy use or transition to net-zero

kingfisher-utilities.com

WELCOME

Welcome to Ireland’s Ancient East A region of stunning Irish heritage, sequestered mountain ranges and captivating coastlines

Kilmacthomas Viaduct, Waterford Greenway

KINGFISHERVISITORGUIDES.COM

elcome to Ireland’s Ancient East, a region which combines the drama of the Celtic Sea coast with the smooth, beautiful beaches of the Irish coast. This is the home of sequestered mountain ranges like the Blackstairs, the Comeragh and the improbably named Knockmealdowns, all offering a still solitude so rare at these latitudes. And here is where five of Ireland’s great rivers flow into the sea – including the Suir, the Nore and the Barrow, known as the Three Sisters. Welcome, too, to the sunny South – Wexford’s Rosslare sees the most sunshine of any town in the country. The climate is perfect – the least blustery of any part of Ireland, it also has the record for the highest temperature (33.3 degrees Celsius), at Kilkenny (the clement conditions make tillage and fruit farming uniquely predominant here. Make sure you taste some famous Wexford strawberries or Carlow Rooster potatoes). It’s not all pretty surroundings and lovely vistas, impressive though they undoubtedly are. Ireland’s Ancient East also has great modern shopping, restaurants, arts and culture, and some of the best places to stay in Ireland. All in all, you’ve picked a great time to visit this wonderful region, so please enjoy everything it has to offer.

©WATERFORD CITY & COUNTY COUNCIL/VISITWATERFORD.COM

“Ireland’s Ancient East is the home of sequestered mountain ranges like the Blackstairs, the Comeragh and the improbably named Knockmealdowns”

WELCOME TO IRELAND’S ANCIENT EAST

Reasons to love this region… There are many reasons to love it here – try some of these for starters

THE ARCHITECTURE Lismore Castle, Johnstown Castle, Dunbrody Abbey, Tintern Abbey, Kilkenny Castle (pictured), Waterford Castle, Enniscorthy Castle – this region bears testament to a uniquely vivid history.

THE VARIETY From the lonesome hillsides of the Knockmealdowns, to the grandeur of Kilkenny’s Norman architecture; from the wilds of Hook Head, to the narrow streets of Waterford and Wexford; from the expansive beaches stretching from Northern Wexford to the Blackwater Estuary, to the tidy, trim villages and towns of Kilkenny (pictured right) and Carlow, there is something for everyone in this region where elegant towns meet the farming heartlands.

KINGFISHERVISITORGUIDES.COM

LOVE IRELAND’S ANCIENT EAST

THE BEACHES Wexford and Waterford (pictured) have been welcoming weekenders and holidaymakers from elsewhere in Ireland for decades. There are 13 Blue Flag beaches in these two counties alone, with many more hidden coves and unspoilt strands.

You’ll also love… THE SUNNY EAST With higher than average sunshine than the rest of Ireland, plenty of fertile, arable land, and a history of cultivation by English and Norman settlers, the region has a more continental air than the blustery west of Ireland or rainy Dublin. Wexford’s strawberries, in particular, are a delight. THE PINT Brewing has been a mainstay of the region for centuries – at least since the 13thcentury, when Franciscan monks in Kilkenny purified water by turning it into ale (their abbey later became the Smithwick’s brewery). Today, there is a host of micro-breweries and distilleries, while Wexford, Waterford and Kilkenny have some of the finest pubs in Ireland.

THE HISTORY Its location may have made it the first port of call for Viking pirate and English coloniser alike, but this tumultuous past has left a startlingly rich legacy. This region has seen it all, from emigré Gaelic clans to dueling kings of Leinster, to invasions by Norman lords and English kings alike, to the ravages of war and Famine graves. Make sure you visit The Irish Heritage Park in Wexford, which brings more than 9,000 years of Irish history to life.

©BRIAN MORRISON/CHRIS HILL/DANIEL O’CONNOR/FÁILTE IRELAND/TOURISM IRELAND/IRELAND’S CONTENT POOL; EILIV SONAS ACERON/PATRICK FORE/UNSPLASH; SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

THE FOOD The Michelin-starred restaurants of Kilkenny and Waterford are just the tip of the iceberg when it comes to the startlingly good selection of eateries and markets across the area. The array of scintillating food festivals brings the produce of this fishing and farming region – and your tastebuds – to life! THE CLASH OF THE ASH No other part of Ireland is so head over heels with one game – hurling. In Kilkenny, it’s a sort of religion, or way of life – almost every pub is a hurling pub, while Waterford, Wexford and Carlow are crackers for it too. The fastest field sport in the world, hurling is capable of drawing the interest even of those with little passion for other sports.

THE CÉAD MÍLE FÁILTE This is a part of Ireland where the land of the thousand welcomes remains alive – towns, villages and families are bound together by GAA club, parish, community and a love of the craic.

THE EASE For a region that lacks the urban sprawl of the Dublin region, or an industrial centre, the Ancient East is remarkably served by boat, road and rail. The unhurried drives are a joy in themselves, whether through rolling hills on the M9 in Carlow and Kilkenny, or the coastal N25 across Waterford and Wexford.

WELCOME TO IRELAND’S ANCIENT EAST

HISTORY & HERITAGE

Take a step back in time Discover a region renowned for its fascinating and ancient past

his is a landscape that has witnessed so much over time; a history that has left its mark in the form of castles and abbeys, in round towers and monasteries, in Viking ruins and Norman keeps, and in medieval streets and Georgian terraces.

©BRIAN MORRISON/TOURISM IRELAND/IRELAND’S CONTENT POOL

CASTLES GALORE Here, too, is a site that shaped most of Irish history: the first landing by British forces in Ireland, in May 1169, at Bannow Bay, presaging an Anglo-Norman conquest that was to last 750 years. The region’s history has left an enviable architectural inheritance, with stupendous castles at Lismore, Kilkenny, Waterford and outside Wexford. On blustery Hook Head there seems to be more castles and stately homes than people, including Loftus Hall, the most haunted house in Ireland, standing sentry over the ancient Hook Lighthouse. It is here that you’ll find Ireland’s oldest city – Waterford – and Ireland’s only Norman city Kilkenny – known as the

WELCOME TO IRELAND’S ANCIENT EAST

Marble City – with a breathtaking castle, streets full of medieval lore, and a remarkably vibrant arts and crafts scene in its hinterland. It has an enviable restaurant and bar scene, and is the perfect base from which to explore the pretty waterside villages across the southern county (like Bennettsbridge), or Dunmore Cave to the north. It has a wealth of Norman and medieval architecture, including Kells Priory and St Mary’s Church in Gowran. Kilkenny (Cill Chainnigh, meaning the church of St Canice) is also the origin of historical stories like no other. The phrase “fighting like Kilkenny cats”, is said to stem from a peculiarly gruesome game played by soldiers (of either Cromwellian or Hessian origin) which featured the demise of poor felines. This compact city was also the scene of the first witchcraft trial in Ireland: that of Dame Alice Kyteler, a banking heiress of Norman stock whose undoubted talents as femme fatale and necromancer led to the untimely u p16

Above Pay a visit to the 13th-century Ferns Castle, County Wexford

KINGFISHERVISITORGUIDES.COM

Request information about our bespoke collections

rudolfheltzel.com

RUDOLF HELTZEL An icon of Irish craft and design

REQUEST OUR CATALOGUE Request a pdf catalogue at www.rudolfheltzel.com email us at info@rudolfheltzel.com or phone us at +353 (0)56 7721497 You are very welcome to visit us at our studio in the heart of Kilkenny, just 700m walking distance from the majestic Kilkenny Castle.

rudolfheltzel rudolfheltzel *request a catalogue web page

demise of her three husbands amid tales of animal sacrifice and demon-worship. (She was said to manufacture ergot, which produced LSD-like hallucinations). Prosecuted for sorcery and heresy, Kyteler escaped with the help of the Irish Chancellor, leaving her handmaiden Petronella to be flogged and burned at the stake on November 3, 1324. Kyteler’s Inn stands on the site of her former house. FASCINATING AREAS This fascinating area is full of historical curios like that. In the middle of Wexford town is a bullring, used in medieval times for the barbaric practice of bull baiting and, these days, for markets. This is a region steeped in culture, hosting Ireland’s two opera festivals in Lismore and Wexford (the latter is a particular highlight), and the home of authors Colm Toibin and John Banville. Here you’ll also find the Kilkenny Arts Festival, Kilkenny Cat Laughs, the new All Together Now festival in Waterford; Carlow Arts Festival; the Bunclody Festival in Wexford, the Gap Arts Festival; Write by the Sea in Kilmore Quay; the West Waterford Food Festival; the Enniscorthy Rocking Food Festival; and the Savour Kilkenny Food Festival. There are many more, too numerous to

KINGFISHERVISITORGUIDES.COM

mention. It also has Ireland’s smallest bookshop – Red Books in Bridgetown, County Wexford. It’s a region that has colonised everyone who arrived. The original Norman (Anglo-Irish) settlers eventually grew “more Irish than the Irish themselves”. Generations of immigrants, whether from the British landed gentry, or from further afield, have taken the place to their heart in the millennium since. Yet not all came in peace. In 2002, Oliver Cromwell was voted into the top 10 Greatest Britons of all time. In Ireland, he is remembered for his notorious 1649 campaign, part of the Irish Confederate Wars (or Eleven Years War), in which he besieged Carlow, New Ross, Duncannon, and Waterford – and massacred thousands in Wexford. Estimates for the drop in the Irish population during Cromwell’s Roundhead campaigns of 1649-1653 vary from 15 to 83 per cent! Under the policy of “to hell or to Connacht”, he shipped many over-seas to the Caribbean. Cromwell also began the religious apartheid of the Penal Laws, which banned Catholics from: voting; public office; marrying Protestants; teaching; fostering orphans; bearing arms; and owning a horse worth more than £5. Many of these laws continued into well

Above Dunhill Castle, Waterford; Opposite page Step back in time on a visit to Waterford’s Viking Triangle

©DARIO LO PRESTI/STOCK.ADOBE.COM; GEORGE MUNDAY/KEITH FITZGERALD/TOURISM IRELAND/ IRELAND’S CONTENT POOL; WATERFORD CITY & COUNTY COUNCIL/VISITWATERFORD.COM

HISTORY & HERITAGE

into the 1800s, when the Great Famine rocked the country, killing one million and forcing another one million people to emigrate. Among them was Wexford man Patrick Kennedy, who sailed to Boston in 1847. Over a century later, his grandson John Fitzgerald Kennedy became the 35th President of the United States of America. You can visit the old Kennedy homestead in Dunganstown, south of New Ross. Further north you’ll find Enniscorthy, a town with a fine castle and steeped in the 1798 Rebellion, which culminated in a pitched battle at nearby Vinegar Hill. PEACEFUL REGION Although it has a bloody history, the region has been at peace for over a century, and Ireland’s close relationship with its neighbours is mirrored by the warm welcome from locals eager to introduce visitors to local customs. First and foremost is the ancient sport of hurling, which draws up to 80,000 people to see a sport that stretches back 4,000 years into prehistory. If you’re lucky you might get the chance to see Kilkenny, the game’s modern specialists, at their peak, or to watch Waterford and Wexford vie to end their long wait for a title (60 years in Waterford’s case!). In the coastal area of Rinn, County Waterford, you can visit one of only two Gaeltachtaí – Irish speaking areas – outside the rugged western seaboard. Waterford city

“This is a landscape that has witnessed so much over time; a history that has left its mark in the form of castles and abbeys, in round towers and monasteries, in Viking ruins, Norman keeps, and in medieval streets” itself mean-while, is a treasure trove of Viking and medieval architecture, and is an excellent spot for a walking tour of its historic and cultural riches, with several excellent museums. In the county, the Waterford Suir Valley Railway at Kilmeadan is an enjoyable trip down memory lane. There are surprising activities and places to visit across the region, from wildlife parks, adventures and leisure centres and more. Carlow, meanwhile, has some lovely rolling hills, forest parks and, inevitably, some engrossing visitor attractions at Huntington Castle and Altamont Gardens. There are also the Norman ruins of Carlow Castle, which was the improbable capital of Ireland at one point. Amazing history that oozes from every street, and Ireland’s most authentically vibrant pub and arts scene: Ireland’s Ancient East has it all.

WELCOME TO IRELAND’S ANCIENT EAST

DAYS OUT

Great days out for all You’ll never be short of things to do and places to explore here, with plenty of top attractions for all the family to enjoy

rom the dramatic Celtic Sea coast to majestic castles and modern shopping centres, Ireland’s Ancient East boasts something for everyone. History buffs make the rounds of intriguing museums, while families launch into adventures across the countryside. If you’re ready for an action-packed itinerary, this is a region that’s ready to impress with a wealth of choices for fabulous days out.

©IRE DRONEPHOTOGRAPHY/STOCK.ADOBE.COM; LEO BYRNE PHOTOGRAPHY/FÁILTE IRELAND/IRELAND’S CONTENT POOL

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Stroll between art galleries and museums in crafty towns, then travel around Ireland’s Ancient East to see castles and churches decorating nature’s backdrop. If you’re into crafts, you’ll never be bored in this region. Start your journey at Kilkenny Design Centre, which is part of Kilkenny’s Castle Yard. It also houses the National Design and Craft Gallery, one of the most exciting venues in Ireland. Textures is here too, a retail space showcasing the best in Irish art, craft and design.

KINGFISHERVISITORGUIDES.COM

The Medieval Mile Museum, housed in a converted church on the tucked-away St Mary’s Lane, is the perfect place to find out more about the city’s rich past. For centuries, Kilkenny was the site of Ireland’s oldest brewery, Smithwick’s. Today it’s no longer operating, but the excellent visitor centre is good value – not least for the tasting sessions. Cushendale Woollen Mills, in Graignamanagh, is a great example of the blending of arts and crafts with history in the area. The mills stand on the site of the first mills established by Cistercian monks in 1204. Carlow’s county museum leaves you in little doubt as to its historical and cultural vibrancy. Curios include the last cigarette smoked by Irish nationalist martyr Kevin Barry and a fossilised 340-million-year-old squid. You’ll also see a tribute to John Tyndall, the scientist who, in 1859, finally proved the existence of the greenhouse effect. The Waterford Museum of Treasures comprises different museums within steps of each other in the Viking Triangle. Admire the huge stone fortress of u p23

Opposite page Enjoy spectacular views of the Waterford coast near Newton Cove; Above Uncover ancient history at the Medieval Museum in Waterford

WELCOME TO IRELAND’S ANCIENT EAST

Sailing between Greenore, Co. Louth & Greencastle, Co. Down

Take inspiration from Ireland’s earliest visitors and explore the ancient Cooley Peninsula and mystical mountains of Mourne by ferry. Carlingford Lough is the perfect destination for a scenic day trip, for nature lovers, adventure seekers, and hikers and bikers.

UP TO 30 sailings per day during summer months Visit carlingfordferry.com for up to date sailing times

SAILING TIMES

We operate a continuous car ferry service across the River Suir linking the coastal villages of Passage East, Co. Waterford and Ballyhack, Co. Wexford. The service provides a scenic shortcut to visitors touring the south-east.

First Sailing: Monday-Saturday 07:00 Sundays & Public Holidays 09:30

The following list of attractions are all just a stone’s throw from us; Waterford Greenway, Waterford Viking Triangle, Dunmore East, and on the Wexford side; Hook Lighthouse, Loftus Hall, Dunbrody Famine Ship, Tintern Abbey & JF Kennedy Arboretum.

Last Sailing: 1st June-31st August: 21:00 1st September-31st May: 20:00

Tickets can be purchased on board or online on our website and we cater for cars, commercial vans, campers/caravans, motorcyclists, cyclists and pedestrians.

CONTACT T. 051-382480 • E. info@passageferry.ie Barracks Street • Passage East • Co. Waterford WWW.PASSAGEFERRY.IE

WELCOME TO IRELAND’S ANCIENT EAST

KINGFISHERVISITORGUIDES.COM

5086 IHT Advert Max Media St1 copy.pdf

05/11/2018

16:41

IRISH HERITAGE TRUST IRISHPlaces HERITAGE TRUST Bringing to Life Bringing Places to Life

www.irishheritagetrust.ie www.irishheritagetrust.ie

SHARING S NEGS S P E C I A L HPALRAIC SPECIAL PLACES

CM MY

MY CY

CY CMY CMY K K

H E R I TA G E B R O U G H T T O BR O UOGNHET T O LHI EF ER I FTA OG R EE V E RY L I F E F O R E V E RY O N E

P A S S I O N AT E A B O U T G R E AT P A S S I O N AT E A B O U T G R E AT V I S I TO R E X P E R I E N C E S V I S I TO R E X P E R I E N C E S Immerse yourself in Ireland’s Heritage at Immerse yourself in Ireland’s Heritage at Strokestown Park & the National Famine Museum, Roscommon; Strokestown Park & the National Famine Museum, Roscommon; Fota House & Arboretum Gardens, Cork; Fota House & Arboretum Gardens, Cork; Johnstown Castle, Museum & Estate, Wexford. Johnstown Castle, Museum & Estate, Wexford.

fotahouse.com fotahouse.com || johnstowncastle.ie johnstowncastle.ie || strokestownpark.ie strokestownpark.ie

AMPLE FREE PARKING (INCLUDING COACHES) ON-SITE

WWW.HUNTINGTONCASTLE.COM

One of Ireland’s historical gems, this amazing Castle is still lived in by descendants of the original builders. The guided tour (approx 40 mins) features the world famous Temple of Isis in the dungeons as well as Castle rooms and ghost stories. With formal gardens, an adventure playground, tearooms and giftshop, Huntington Castle is the perfect place for a day out. Opening Times Castle & Gardens: Daily, May to Sept 11.00-18.00h Weekends, Oct to April (Check website for details) Guided tours: Hourly 13.00-17.00h (last tour) plus Easter, Halloween, Christmas etc Huntington Castle Clonegal, Co. Carlow Tel: 053-937 7160 Email: info@huntingtoncastle.com SatNav: Latitude/Longitude 52.6905, -6.6492

Gardens only: Adults €6.00. Child (U12) €3.00

KINGFISHERVISITORGUIDES.COM

Castle Tour & Gardens: Adults €12.00. Child (U12) €6.00

Usual concessions apply

DAYS OUT

©CHRIS HILL/MARK WESLEY/TOURISM IRELAND/PETER GROGAN/EMAGINE/FÁILTE IRELAND/IRELAND’S CONTENT POOL

“The Waterford Museum of Treasures comprises different museums within steps of each other in the Viking Triangle. Admire the huge stone fortress of Reginald’s Tower and marvel at the Treasures of Viking Waterford”

Reginald’s Tower and see the Treasures of Viking Waterford. You’ll discover the Treasures of Medieval Waterford in Ireland’s only Medieval Museum. Built in 1743, the Neo-Classical Bishop’s Palace houses historic gems like a fantasy shell grotto in a mahogany cabinet. Don’t miss a trip to the King of the Vikings VR experience. This unique attractions shows visitors what life was like in a reconstructed Viking house. The finest example of a medieval town in Ireland, the tiny city of Kilkenny is home to an imposing Norman castle overlooking the winding River Nore. Although originally built by the Anglo-Norman William Marshal in 1195, it’s seen several changes over the years and has a remarkable mix of styles. Saunter around Kilkenny Castle park and pop into the quaint tea room featuring original Victorian utensils. GLORIOUS CASTLES In South Carlow, Huntington Castle and Gardens provides a glimpse of how the Anglo-Irish Protestant Ascendancy lived. It was built in 1625 and the descendants of the original castle’s builders still live on site. Luckily for you, part of their glorious house is open to guests. The Castle includes a temple to Isis and superb gardens first established in the 1680s. u p27 Opposite page Discover the magnificent Reginald’s Tower, Waterford; Top Stroll around the exquisite grounds at Huntington Castle and Gardens, County Carlow; Left King of Vikings VR experience, Waterford

WELCOME TO IRELAND’S ANCIENT EAST

IV`Z V \j^YZY idjg Vi i]Z ldgaYÉh daYZhi ^ciVXi ldg`^c\ A^\]i]djhZ

Hook Lighthouse is a gem on Ireland’s Ancient East located on the tip of the Hook Peninsula in Wexford, Ireland. CVbZY ÈI]Z ;aVh]^Zhi A^\]i]djhZ ^c i]Z LdgaYÉ Wn

• • • • •

Open all year Enjoy the Cafe and Gift Shop Free parking and an extensive picnic area Free Wiﬁ Relax by the Sea and look out for seals, dolphins and even whales!

;dg ^c[dgbVi^dc Wdd`^c\h XVaa/

051 397 055 / 051 397 054

lll#]dd`]Zg^iV\Z#^Z

Set Sail for Pirates Cove, Courtown Harbour, Co.Wexford

www.piratescove.ie 053-9425555

WELCOME TO IRELAND’S ANCIENT EAST

KINGFISHERVISITORGUIDES.COM

Great sites to visit in Wexford and Kilkenny jerpoint abbey

Kells priory

tintern abbey

Ferns Castle – living history

ferns castle aerial view

st mary’s church gowran

ballyhack castle

Hear stories of knights, monks, scoundrels, rebels, custodians, law makers & breakers. Try to find a secret room, take a selfie in armour, imagine yourself as Lord or Lady of the castle, test your military strategy, wonder at the skills of medieval and modern craft-workers. Or take some quiet time; wander and relax in nature with birdsong as your soundtrack.

explore our past!

Our sites have all the ingredients for a truly memorable visit!

For all opening times, admission charges, events, accessibility, facilities and other information please check out the site on www.heritageireland.ie Images: Kells Priory: ©National Monuments Service; Ferns Castle: ©Dept. of Culture, Heritage, and the Gaeltacht

©CANDY1812/STOCK.ADOBE.; JOHNSTOWN CASTLE/IRISH HERITAGE TRUST; SHUTTERSTOCK. COM; SONDER VISUALS/FÁILTE IRELAND/TOURISM IRELAND/IRELAND’S CONTENT POOL

DAYS OUT

“In County Wexford you’ll find the spectacular Johnstown Castle Estate. The castle itself is a gem of Gothic revival architecture and it’s surrounded by spectacular ornamental grounds which were designed by Daniel Robertson” Dominating views across Waterford Estuary, Ballyhack Castle features a tower that’s five stories tall. Head inside to see replica armour depicting the Crusades and the Normans. Get your camera ready for Enniscorthy Castle, once the home of Norman knights and Irish rebels. The dungeon hosts rare medieval wall art and the battlements feature panoramic views over the countryside. A walk down Kilkenny’s Medieval Mile brings you to the city’s St Canice’s Cathedral, where you’ll climb to the top of its round tower. Built on a site that hosted Christian worship since the sixth century, this cathedral was the centrepiece of ‘Irishtown’ where Catholics were forced to live outside the city walls. Follow it up with a visit to the Catholic Cathedral of St Mary’s, built in the early Gothic style. The Black Abbey is just down the hill from the Catholic St Mary’s Cathedral on Black Mill Street. Named after the Blackfriars of the Dominican Order, it was swept into

KINGFISHERVISITORGUIDES.COM

Top left Johnstown Castle, Wexford; Top right Enjoy some peace and quiet at Altamont Gardens, near Carlow

politics to become the capital of the Irish Catholic Confederation in the Eleven Years’ War, part of the Civil Wars of the Three Kingdoms. In terms of atmospheric ruins, Dunbrody Abbey is photogenic to say the least. It’s located on the Hook Peninsula and was founded in 1170 after the Norman invasion of Ireland. You’ll learn all about its fascinating history, but there’s plenty more to do on the grounds. Have a rest with home-made scones at the Tea Room, amble through the maze and take the kids for a round on the mini-golf course. FAMILY ADVENTURES Hands up if you feel like a day by the sea, a picnic in the park or a wildlife-spotting adventure! There’s all that and more for families in Ireland’s Ancient East. You’ll have around 16 hectares of formal and informal gardens to explore at Altamont Gardens near Carlow. Take a walk through the Arboretum and the Bog Garden, then step into the Ice Age Glen beneath a canopy of ancient oaks. From the woodland to floral beds, it all begins or ends with delicious scones and tea at the Sugar & Spice Café. For lush walking trails and stunning picnic spots, head to Oak Park Forest Park. Colour-coded circular walkways ensure no one gets lost! In County Wexford, there’s the spectacular Johnstown Castle Estate, Museum and Gardens which is managed u p31

WELCOME TO IRELAND’S ANCIENT EAST

ES | SAL

LUXURY TRAVEL

| TRAINING REKKING ICE | T SERV

AVAIL ABLE GIFT VOUCHERS rthy, Co. Wexford Clonroche, Ennisco

NG BE ST QUAD TREKKI

EXPERIENCE EVER! id disappointment!

Book in advance to avo

s, s, couples, stags, hen All welcome… tourist thdays, communions, bir , ties par rk wo , ate ards. sportsclubs, corpor s… from 6 years upw confirmations, familie

e | 053 924 4660 www.quadventure.i

D SERVICE R AT V/UTV SALE S AN NO.1 IN IRELAND FO 25 YE ARS ER OV R ACCE SSORIES FO D AN S NT ME CH TA AT

CHAUFFEUR SERVICE

www.luxurychauffeurhirelondon.co.uk

For more information visit

kingfisher-utilities.com 28

KINGFISHERVISITORGUIDES.COM

Take a step in the right direction by using our CARBON FOOTPRINT CALCULATOR today!

Nestled in the heart of Ireland’s Medieval Mile, Rothe House Museum and Garden is one of Kilkenny’s hidden gems; a visit is high on the list of things to do in the Marble City. Rothe House is a unique Tudor merchant’s townhouse, built between 1594 and 1610. The property comprises of three townhouses, three enclosed courtyards and a large restored medieval garden to the rear, a genealogical centre and a newly opened Irish craft shop. It’s all waiting for you… Rothe House Museum and Garden is open for self-guided and guided tours, contact reception@rothehouse.com.

WINTER OPENING HOURS Tuesday-Sunday 10.00am-6.00pm (last admission 4.00pm) SUMMER OPENING HOURS Monday-Sunday

10.00am-6.00pm (last admission 5.15pm)

16 Parliament Street, Kilkenny, Ireland R95 P89C 00353 5677 22893

reception@rothehouse.com

ROTHEHOUSE.COM

Scenic train journey beside the River Suir Six trips per day | Fun for all ages

WELCOME TO IRELAND’S ANCIENT EAST

Phone: +353 (0)51 849 676

  

@KingoftheVikings @KingofvikingsVR

DAYS OUT

by the Irish Heritage Trust. The castle itself is a gem of Gothic revival architecture and it’s surrounded by spectacular ornamental grounds designed by Daniel Robertson. Discover a range of beautifully sculptured walks and a Victorian walled garden.

©KILMOKEA COUNTRY MANOR HOUSE & GARDENS ; SCISETTI ALFIO/STOCK.ADOBE.COM; WELLS HOUSE AND GARDEN/FÁILTE IRELAND/IRELAND’S CONTENT POOL

AWARD-WINNING GARDENS Also in Wexford is Kilmokea Country Manor & Gardens, which is the perfect place for a day out for all the family. It’s rightly renowned for seven glorious acres of awardwinning gardens, with unusual sub-tropical plants and wonderful organic vegetables. You’ll find serenity in the walled garden and enjoy a series of waterfalls in the woodland garden. Uncover more than 400 years of history at Wells House & Gardens. Take part in a guided tour of the 17th-century house, visit the animal farm or explore its enchanted woodland, gardens and arboretum. There’s plenty to do for the energetic little or not so little people in your life in Wexford! Secret Valley Wildlife Park lets you get u p33 Top Kilmokea Country Manor & Gardens, County Wexford; Left Wells House & Gardens, in County Wexford, is a big hit for kids and adults alike

KINGFISHERVISITORGUIDES.COM

WELCOME TO IRELAND’S ANCIENT EAST

KINGFISHERVISITORGUIDES.COM

DAYS OUT

up close to furry residents, take pony rides and hop on the peddle tractors. Pirates Cove offers swashbuckling fun for all ages. You’ll venture through giant caves, a cascading waterfall and a full-sized shipwreck of a treasure-laden galleon on one of Europe’s best adventure golf courses. You’ll explore plenty of walks and cycling routes for all abilities across the region. One of the best is the Waterford Greenway cycle route which stretches from Waterford city to the coastal town of Dungarvan. Here, you’ll relax by the sea or dive into water sports like sea kayaking to see the sights. If you love golf, you’ll find no less than three courses within a short drive of each other.

telling the story of brothers John and Patrick who sought refuge in the workhouse in 1842. Located on the banks of the River Slaney, The Irish National Heritage Park in Ferrycarrig brings the story of human settlement to life with costumed guides. The open-air museum features fantastic reconstructions of huts and castles surrounded by woodland. At the Dunbrody Famine Ship, you’ll explore an authentic reproduction of an 1840s emigrant vessel, complete with guided tours by costumed performers. The experience provides insight into the bravery of the Irish people during the Fáilte Ireland Family Friendly Programme, and it’s custom-made to ensure it’s suitable for all ages. You could randomly point at a map of Ireland’s Ancient East, blindfolded, and find exciting things to do. From lush country walking trails to fascinating museums and fun-filled adventure parks, all ages are catered for. The only problem you’ll have is choosing what to do next!

Opposite page St Canice’s Cathedral, Kilkenny; Clockwise from below Waterford Greenway is great for cycling; Explore historic buildings and settlements to see how Ireland’s earliest settlers lived at The Irish National Heritage Park, County Wexford; Step back in time on a trip to the Dunbrody Famine Ship in New Ross

©BRIAN MORRISON PHOTOGRAPHY/STEFAN SCHNEBELT PHOTOGRAPHY 2019/STEFANSCHNEBELT.COM/ TOURISM IRELAND/IRELAND’S CONTENT; GIUMAS/STOCK.ADOBE.COM; THE IRISH NATIONAL HERITAGE PARK

RIVERSIDE TOWNS County Kilkenny offers a plethora of lovely riverside towns and beautiful parks. Nore Valley Park offers a little bit of everything for kids and big kids alike. Visit the pet farm to meet the animals and play a round of crazy golf. Tractor rides thrill the little ones while they’re exploring the park, and go-karts bring heart-pumping adventure. The Kilkenny Activity Centre serves up the thrills with paintball, bubble football and giant darts. Give the whole family a culture fix at fantastic attractions throughout Ireland’s Ancient East. The Kilkenny Union Workhouse offers an award-winning tour

“At the Dunbrody Famine Ship in County Wexford, you’ll explore an authentic reproduction of an 1840s emigrant vessel, complete with guided tours by costumed performers”

WELCOME TO IRELAND’S ANCIENT EAST

Only here for the weekend? Our two-day driving route covers Kilkenny, Waterford City, Hook Head and Wexford town

WEEKENDER

©BRIAN MORRISON/TOURISM IRELAND/LUKE MYERS/WATERFORD MUSEUM OF TREASURES/FÁILTE IRELAND/ IRELAND’S CONTENT POOL; GABRIEL RAMOS/UNSPLASH; MARA ZEMGALIETE/STOCK.ADOBE.COM

“Pop into the magnificent Gothic St Canice’s Cathedral, climbing the ninthcentury Round Tower for a panorama of the Marble City itself from Irishtown”

DAY ONE Start your journey through the cities, towns and tillage fields of the sunny and historic East. Kick things off in Kilkenny (Cill Chainnigh, or the Church of Canice) – and pop into the magnificent Gothic St Canice’s Cathedral itself, climbing the ninth-century Round Tower for a panorama of the Marble City itself from Irishtown. Follow up with dinner at Campagne, the city’s Michelin-starred restaurant, a 10-minute walk across the River Nore. After brunch in the Fig Tree at the heart of the city’s Medieval Mile, wander up to Kilkenny Castle for a tour, before visiting the National Design & Craft Gallery before lunch at Rive Gauche. It’s time to visit the region’s other historic city, Waterford. Known as Ireland’s oldest, it has a rich Viking and Norman heritage, and is around an hour’s drive from Kilkenny. If you’ve time, take a detour via the trim, pretty villages of Bennettsbridge and Thomastown, and the sumptuous vistas of Mount Juliet. Grab some lunch at McLeary’s Restaurant on Parade Quay, before wandering around the Viking Triangle, savouring the riches of the Medieval Museum and the Bishop’s Palace. For a late afternoon snack, grab some “blaa” – a Waterford delicacy for centuries – or allow your passenger a cheeky drink at Bodega Restaurant & Bar. Take the car ferry across from Passage East to Ballyhack, and admire the profusion of castles and stately homes on Hook Peninsula, from the disused Norman stronghold of Ballyhack Castle to Dunbrody Abbey and Tintern Abbey, before settling down for dinner at the renowned Aldridge Lodge in the coastal

KINGFISHERVISITORGUIDES.COM

Opposite page clockwise from top Dunbrody Abbey; Hook Lighthouse; Tintern Abbey, County Wexford; Above Medieval Museum, Waterford; St Canice’s Cathedral, Kilkenny

village of Duncannon, taking an after-dinner stroll around its Norman bastion. From here, Hook Lighthouse – the oldest such building still operational – is a short drive, and is a great spot to take in the sunset. Ponder the origin of the phrase “by Hook or Crooke (village)” and relax with a glass at any one of the pubs on Hook Head like Templars Inn. Tintern Abbey is just over half an hour’s drive to Wexford town, and passes through Wellington Bridge, at the head of Bannow Bay, where Richard de Clare, the Norman lord nicknamed Strongbow, came ashore at the head of the first organised British invasion of Ireland. DAY TWO Devote your second day to the historic cultural hub of Wexford, the cornerstone of the region. Explore its lanes, and café-strewn alleyways via the town’s heritage trail, starting at Selskar Abbey, rumoured to be where Henry II did penance for the murder of Thomas Beckett. Green Acres in Selskar is a food and wine emporium. After a visit to Curracloe Beach (the scene for the famous opening of Saving Private Ryan) or the nearby fascinating Irish National Heritage Park at Ferrycarrig, return to the town for a seafood dinner at La Côte on Custom House Quay, followed by a show at the National Opera House and drinks at Thomas Moore Tavern, named after the local Irish poet.

WELCOME TO IRELAND’S ANCIENT EAST

SHOPPING

Shopping with style… Shopaholics will love this region for its eclectic mix of boho-chic boutiques, high street staples and quirky independents

reland’s Ancient East is full of fantastic shopping, whether you explore historic cobbled streets or the shopping meccas dotted across the region. The decadence of Ireland’s Celtic Tiger shopping is back, and the high streets in this region have never offered such a wealth of choice. Don’t be surprised if you return home with much more than you bargained for! Spend all day, every day, pounding the pavements of towns packed full of goodies to buy in Ireland’s Ancient East.

©BRAD PICT/ROXANA JIFCOVICI/STOCK.ADOBE.COM

HIDDEN TREASURES Kilkenny is a byword for fabulous shopping, and it’s hard to beat the joy of exploring the city’s medieval laneways for treasures. Start by visiting Goods of Kilkenny on High Street, the 90-year-old Kilkenny institution which is your first port of call for footwear, cosmetics, accessories and lingerie. Paul’s Fashion Store is another with years of experience in keeping well-heeled shoppers happy. The city’s pedestrian area offers a raft of great shops, including the uber-personalised Peaches Boutique, the stylish Mimi Boutique and Tiffany Shoe Boutique on St Kieran’s Gardens. On the same street, you’ll find the family store Lady Lorna Designers Emporium, host to a range of Irish and international designers. For more high street offerings, you’re spoilt for choice with shopping centres. Market Cross Shopping Centre is in the heart of the city centre and has a long history, beginning with the Original Market Cross that stood on the

WELCOME TO IRELAND’S ANCIENT EAST

high street from 1335 to 1771. With more than 40 outlets, including L’Occitane and Penneys, you’ll be here for a while. MacDonagh Junction, also known as Kilkenny Shopping Centre, is the largest shopping centre in the South East and welcomes more than three million shoppers a year. This is the place for retailers such as TK Maxx, H&M, Next, and Irish traders Carraig Donn and Fields Jewellers.

“MacDonagh Junction, also known as Kilkenny Shopping Centre, is the largest shopping centre in the South East and welcomes more than three million shoppers a year” Love jewellery? The city is renowned for it, from Lorimat on Patrick Street to Ryan’s and Murphy’s, both on High Street. You’ll find Carl Parker Jewellery further out of town at Castlecomer. Shopping heaven awaits in the region’s biggest city, Waterford. Hop from Waterford Retail Park and Waterford Shopping Centre in the city’s western suburbs to Ardkeen and Ballinakill shopping centres along Dunmore Road. However, it’s tightly packed Waterford city centre that offers the most atmospheric shopping experience. u p38

KINGFISHERVISITORGUIDES.COM

Don’t miss the massive City Square shopping centre, located at the centre of the old city. It’s the fashion and lifestyle centre of the region and features an excellent range of eateries, too. Barronstrand Street is the other end of the central shopping district, with Tommy Hilfiger, Fitzgerald Menswear and outdoor shops. George’s Court shopping centre is across the pedestrian street from Penneys, the Irish version of Primark. Make sure you pop down John Street to the Apple Market. It’s a real hub for a social post-shopping drink, and there’s variety of bargain and charity shops nearby. And, that’s just the city. Waterford county offers other, less hectic, shopping opportunities. Ardmore boasts lovely pottery and craft shops, while Rinn Gaeltacht offers Irish crystal to rival any in the county. FAMOUS RETAIL NAMES Shopping in the historic district of Wexford starts down the narrow Selskar Avenue which brings you to the pedestrian Main Street. It’s flanked by atmospheric alleys and lanes to wander down and stumble upon one-off treasures. You’ll find a host of famous retail names in the area, like Fat Face, department store Shaw’s, Diana Donnelly’s designer clothes, and, in a remarkable Flemish-style building, Boots. Sarah King fashion is on North Main Street and the classy Irish fashion and jewellery shop Carraig Donn is on South Main Street, next to the Book Centre. Martins Jewellers is around the corner on Row Street. In between, you have loads of fashion choices including Ersk, a small fashion business with branches in New Ross and Waterford.

KINGFISHERVISITORGUIDES.COM

“For a huge range of craftspeople and designers, visit the Kilkenny Design Centre. If something beautiful can be made by human hand, you’ll find it here – it’s the place to shop for ladieswear, pottery, jewellery, candles and fragrances” To ensure your shopping trip is easy-going on the feet, Carlow offers accessible shopping centres in the heart of town. Start at the Fairgreen Shopping Centre on Barrack Street, which features a great range of Irish and UK high street stores including Next, River Island and Pamela Scott, along with a fantastic range of homeware at Carraig Donn. Relatively New to Waterford and Carlow alike is the Scandinavian flat-pack store JYSK, a more stylish version of Ikea. As befitting the Marble City, Kilkenny is a treasure trove of finely crafted jewellery and precious pieces including the works of Rudolf Heltzel, a German-Irish master goldsmith. At the Rudolf Heltzel studio gallery, you’re greeted with a friendly smile and contemporary jewellery that’s been lovingly made by hand since the company was founded in 1968. Choose from unique pendants and rare gemstones. For a huge range of craftspeople and designers, visit the Kilkenny Design Centre near Kilkenny Castle. If something beautiful can be made by human hand, you’ll find it here. In particular, it’s the place to shop for bespoke ladieswear, pottery, jewellery, candles and fragrances.

Above left to right The House of Waterford Crystal; Pick up a gift Kilkenny Design Centre

SHOPPING

©BRIAN MORRISON/TOURISM IRELAND/PATRICK BROWNE/FÁILTE IRELAND/ IRELAND’S CONTENT POOL; MIKOLAJN/MNSTUDIO/STOCK.ADOBE.COM

Are you a bookworm? Kilkenny has you sorted. There’s the Book Centre on High Street, the Book and Coffee Shop on William Street, and Bargain Books in the Butter Slip. Speaking of which, the arched Butter Slip passageway dates from the early 17th century when it was flanked with butter-sellers on either side. It’s the most fetching of the many alleys dotted around Kilkenny’s Medieval Mile. If you love all things vintage, head to O’Connell Street and the Vintage Factory to stock up on bags, clothes and accessories from the era you love. For music lovers, John Palmer Music Centre was established in 1988 by the man himself, and he loves to see new faces in the shop. Golden Discs is Ireland’s largest music chain store, and you’ll find a store in City Square shopping centre. BESPOKE ITEMS For ethical womenswear, look no further than Bébhínn from Bébhínn McGrath, one of a new trend among Irish fashion designers. The open studio offers clothing made entirely of merino wool and linen. Bespoke items of jewellery, gold and knitwear adorn Hibernian Gifts on nearby Bolton Street, next to House of Waterford Crystal. Waterford has other glassworks, including Heritage Irish Crystal in Bilberry Industrial Estate by the Suir estuary. Kite Design Studios, on Henrietta Street, is like a miniature bespoke shopping centre in itself. Inside is the Irish Handmade Glass Company, along with Sharon Fleming ceramics, Stradbally Jewellery and Anne McDonnellMurphy’s fine printworks. u p41

It would appear as magic to those who witness the making of hot blown glass for the very ﬁrst time. Visitors to our studio and shop are welcome to view the glassblowing free of charge during working hours. Workshop Hours

Monday to Thursday: 10am to 4pm Friday: 10am to 1pm

Shop and Gallery Hours

Monday - Saturday: 10am to 6pm Sunday: 12-5pm Jerpoint Glass Studio, Stoneyford County Kilkenny, R95WN67 056 7724 30 -www.jerpointglass.com- enquiries@jerpointglass.com

WELCOME TO IRELAND’S ANCIENT EAST

SHOPPING

“Lively and prosperous Enniscorthy brims with a tantalising selection of local independent retailers – you’ll love shopping within the olde-worlde charm of this Irish country market town” Wexford is an exciting arts and crafts hub. If that’s your bag, be sure to pop into the Blue Egg Gallery near the Wexford Arts Centre. Expect your eyes to pop over the gorgeous displays of clay, glass, textile and wood crafts. In other craft areas, you’ll find Paul Maloney Pottery in Barntown and Mairead Ceramics and Art in Castlebridge. Lively and prosperous Enniscorthy brims with a tantalising selection of local independent retailers. You’ll love shopping within the olde-worlde charm of this Irish country market town. Start on Market Square with visits to Mahady Breen for shoes, Breda’s Boutique for new outfits and Walter Bourke & Son for jewellery. Head to Main Street and Put A Bow On It among numerous thriving independent boutiques. Glamour Boutique is where you’ll find the latest fashion and Sofia’s Choice offers children’s clothes as well. For foodies, County Wexford is famous for the farmers’ markets that meet once a week in its four main towns of New Ross, Enniscorthy, Gorey, and Wexford. ©DGLIMAGES/STOCK.ADOBE.COM; ELCARITO/UNSPLASH; STEFAN SCHNEBELT PHOTOGRAPHY 2019/STEFANSCHNEBELT.COM/TOURISM IRELAND/IRELAND’S CONTENT POOL

TRADITIONAL IRISH TREATS Graignamanagh is full of traditional shopping treats to try and resist. Make a beeline for Cushendale Woollen Mills for Irish fleece to swath yourself or your furniture in. The Irish treasure of Duiske Glass is where you’ll find grapevine cut wine glasses and a bespoke engraving service for your gifts. While you’re there, visit the pretty village of St Mullins to dine by the river at Mullicháin Café. You’ll sample the best of locally sourced, Irish cuisine before heading back to the shops. Whether you can’t wait to stuff your bags full of high street brands or quirky artworks, Ireland’s Ancient East is a shopper’s dream. Shop till you drop in Kilkenny and Waterford, then set off on a treasure hunt around the region’s lovely villages for local crafts you won’t find anywhere else in the world. Right Time your visit to Waterford city right and you’ll come across an irresistible food market where you can buy locally sourced produce

KINGFISHERVISITORGUIDES.COM

WELCOME TO IRELAND’S ANCIENT EAST

EATING OUT

Restaurants and cafés you just have to try! From ramen to risotto and vegan to steakhouse, every type of food lover is catered for here

id someone say award-winning restaurants? That’s what you’ll find in Ireland’s Ancient East, with everything from Michelin-star meals to succulent seafood by the water. Many of your favourite dishes from around the globe feature on menus too, along with home-made cakes in quaint countryside cafés. It’s enough to make anyone’s mouth water just thinking about it! Kilkenny was voted Foodie Destination of the Year in 2018, so it’s the place to start your gourmet food adventure. To embrace the long French tradition which has reigned in Kilkenny City since the arrival of the Normans, take a table at Campagne at the Arches in Gashouse Lane. Head chef Garret Byrne uses only the finest Irish produce, earning the restaurant a Michelin star every year since 2014. The restaurant is known for its vibrant interior, replete with contemporary art, comfortable furniture and leafy oak panelling.

©MARIA LABANDA/UNSPLASH

SEASONAL INGREDIENTS Lady Helen at the Mount Juliet Estate near Thomastown is another Michelin-star restaurant. It gained its first star in 2013 and the location overlooking the River Nore is as superb as the food. Seasonally chosen ingredients provide the foundation for a variety of tasting menus inspired by the traditional flavours and components of Irish cuisine. Waterford vies with Kilkenny in the food stakes. To the west of the Gentle County is the stunning Cliff House Hotel in Ardmore, which earned a Michelin star in 2020. The sumptuous cuisine combines local and garden ingredients with unique presentations. Furthermore, the atmosphere somehow manages to be both rarefied and friendly. Aldridge Lodge in Duncannon has been included

KINGFISHERVISITORGUIDES.COM

on the Michelin list of Bib Gourmands, flying the flag for culinary excellence in the Model County. Restaurants laden with awards dot Ireland’s Ancient East. The brilliant Paris Texas Bar, Restaurant and Smokehouse is one in Kilkenny, with wood-smoked ribs, mouthwatering wings and more than one hundred whiskeys to choose from. If you’re in the Hook Head area, Carlow town has a solid selection of eateries. The Plum Tree Bistro was awarded Carlow’s Best Hotel Restaurant 2018 by the Restaurant Association of Ireland.

“Did someone say award-winning restaurants? That’s what you’ll find in this region, with everything from Michelin-star meals to succulent seafood by the water” In Wexford, La Côte in Custom House Quay is a previous winner of Irish Seafood Restaurant of the Year and serves up tasty dishes like Curry Spiced Monkfish. Oyster Lane Restaurant at the Talbot Hotel offers a luxurious experience with private dining options – and a black pudding and bacon salad among some of the more innovative dishes. Dine at the Terrace Restaurant overlooking the lovely courtyard of Clayton Whites Hotel. You’ll need to book a table well in advance, but it’s worth it for a romantic night out. For a real touch of class that’s under the radar of u p44

WELCOME TO IRELAND’S ANCIENT EAST

Currently Ireland’s “Pub of the Year”, the multi-award winning Paris Texas Bar, Restaurant and Smokehouse is perfectly poised on 92 High Street and a short stroll from Kilkenny Castle.

Feast on wood-smoked ribs, mouth-watering wings, steaks, burgers and more. Choose from over 100 whiskeys, 30 plus gins and a host of craft beers and spirits from around the world on the extensive Paris Texas drinks master menu.

The clever layout offers multiple pub and restaurant experiences, all under one roof, including Kilkenny’s best traditional music sessions by an open fire. Paris Texas is a family-friendly bar and restaurant seating 150. Welcoming, local staff are happy to advise you where to visit and what to do in Ireland’s Ancient East.

www.paristexas.ie 44

KINGFISHERVISITORGUIDES.COM

many itineraries, the Munster Room Restaurant at Waterford Castle boasts contemporary Irish fine dining with an elegance that only a centuries-old castle brings. Among its many accolades are 2 AA Rosettes and a place on McKenna’s 100 Best Restaurants 2019. You’ll find Ristorante Rinuccini along the restaurantlined parade in Kilkenny. It was named after Giovanni Battista Rinuccini, a Florentine noble who lived in the Marble City in the mid-17th century. The multi awardwinning Italian fine dining restaurant offers a suburb wine selection to go with a range of menus. Sample scrumptious dishes like Melanzane alla Parmigiana with Pannacotta della Casa for dessert. In Waterford city, the French restaurant La Bohème should be your first port of call. Dig out your glad rags and sample the delicious fare of fresh Irish ingredients and French cooking, within a lovely Georgian townhouse. Bodega Restaurant & Bar showcases a tantalising mix of international cuisine and creative cocktails. Order Indian spiced chicken wings or monkfish

EATING OUT

“The brilliant Paris Texas Bar, Restaurant and Smokehouse in Kilkenny offers wood-smoked ribs, mouthwatering wings and more than one hundred whiskeys to choose from”

©BESTPHOTOSTUDIO/STOCK.ADOBE.COM; GROW HQ; PINAR KUCUK/UNSPLASH; DYLAN VAUGHAN PHOTOGRAPHY/PARIS TEXAS BAR, RESTAURANT AND SMOKEHOUSE

scampi. Feel like a quick trip to New York? Burzza Restaurant provides the vibe and the hamburgers to go with it. The seafood practically launches onto your plate and salad is plucked straight from restaurant gardens in Ireland’s Ancient East. With a growing culinary reputation, some of Dungarvan’s best restaurants cluster around the quays area. The Tannery Restaurant, home of chef-patron Paul Flynn, is a destination eatery that serves up exquisitely present dishes like crab creme brulee. It’s also a cookery school, so you might pick up a few tips to impress your dinner guests at home. SEAFOOD DELIGHTS For surf and turf, 360 Cookhouse tempts your taste buds and also provides delicious vegetarian and gluten-free options. Overlooking Dungarvan’s busy harbour, the Moorings offers a nautical theme to go with your seafood platter. Tramore is a picturesque seaside resort that’s home to Ireland’s oldest surf club and the Beach House restaurant to fuel you up to catch waves. For a taste of fine seafood in a friendly atmosphere, head to Dunmore East across the water from Hook Head. It’s not only home to the Spinnaker Bar, which is famous for seafood chowder, but also the Strand Inn seafood restaurant. Maud’s Ice Cream shop next door isn’t half bad, either. Out in the lush coastal countryside, the Ferrycarrig Hotel offers casual dining in its Dry Dock Bar, and a relaxed bistro feel in the Reeds Restaurant. And, there’s always afternoon tea featuring local produce.

Most menus in Ireland’s Ancient East make the best use of the region’s abundant produce. Notable mentions include Kilkenny’s Anocht Restaurant where awardwinning dishes are made with produce from across the city’s hinterlands. You’ll enjoy quail, foie gras, and a variety of vegan and gluten-free dishes with fine dining service. The magnificent Rive Gauche overlooks the small crossroads at the heart of the Marble City. They offer a great selection of local produce with bags of character to boot. Around the corner, Zuni opened almost 20 years ago and continues to enthral visitors and locals alike with a menu of modern Irish cuisine. Tuck into local favourites like chargrilled Irish sirloin and mulled wine poached pear. On the Medieval Mile, Foodworks Bistro offers a casual dining experience with a farm-to-fork focus. The owners keep pigs and grow their own salad leaves for your eating enjoyment. Veganism is going from strength to strength in Ireland, and The Cutting Vedge in the shadow of Kilkenny Castle wins admirers from far and wide. Waterford is home to GROW HQ, an exciting eating experience with an ethos of food being grown, served and eaten on the same site. On a sunny day, eat outside on the terrace overlooking a kitchen garden that bursts with organic produce. Head grower Richard Mee takes u p47

Top left Dine in relaxed surroundings at GROW HQ, Waterford; Above Burger lovers should make a beeline for Paris Texas Bar, Restaurant and Smokehouse in Kilkenny

WELCOME TO IRELAND’S ANCIENT EAST

GET THE FULL PICTURE!

If you’re planning your next trip, or you want some reminders of this one, view our full portfolio of visitor guides to the UK and Ireland at:

KINGFISHERVISITORGUIDES.COM FOLLOW US

Search Kingfisher Visitor Guides

EATING OUT

guests on a stroll to learn about the importance of sustainability. Afterwards, congratulate yourself on being so healthy! A sort of Wexford version of Dublin’s Fallon & Byrne, Greenacres on Selskar is a combination of food hall and restaurant. There’s smoked rabbit and wild pigeon on the menu, among produce sourced from local suppliers. Warren Gillen’s Cistín Eile on South Main Street gives you an informed introduction to the region’s foods, including corned beef and cabbage.

If you fancy a pitstop while cycling the Waterford Greenway, Coach House Coffee in Kilmacthomas is a bright and breezy favourite among locals and cyclists. Stone walls and a vintage look decorate the former Famine workhouse on the banks of the Mahon river. Coffee culture is alive and well in the lanes of Wexford, with D’Lush Cafe in the Arts Centre and Cappuccino’s on Main Street. Both options will put a spring in your step and a smile on your face with chocolate brownies and granola pots. From seafood to farm-to-form cuisine and international taste sensations, you get the best of all foodie worlds in Ireland’s Ancient East. Better yet, you can dress up, dress down or dine straight from your walk at a huge array of restaurants to suit every occasion and even the fussiest of taste buds.

CAFÉS & TEA ROOMS Of course, there’s some excellent coffee, tea and cake to try with a dash of charming decor across the region. Mocha’s Vintage Tearooms on Kilkenny’s Gas House Lane is one such place. Pop in and they’ll grind your coffee to order and feed you sweet treats crafted mainly with organic ingredients. For scrumptious sandwiches and other picnic-packable goodies, the Gourmet Store has you covered with an enticing deli bar. Time for a pastry or a good brunch? Keogh’s Model Bakery, founded in 1838 in Callan, is one of the oldest bakeries in the country. The Fig Tree Restaurant serves your cappuccino with a full Irish breakfast and home-made brown bread. Then, there’s all-day brunch at the Marble City Bar and TeaRooms, complete with breakfast burritos and toasted sausage sandwiches.

“Coffee culture is alive and well in the lanes of Wexford, with D’Lush Cafe in the Arts Centre and Cappuccino’s on Main Street. Both options will put a spring in your step and a smile on your face with chocolate brownies and granola pots”

KINGFISHERVISITORGUIDES.COM

WELCOME TO IRELAND’S ANCIENT EAST

ARTS & CULTURE

A hub of culture and creativity ©CLIVE BARDA/ARENAPAL/WEXFORD FESTIVAL OPERA; GEORGE MUNDAY/ TOURISM IRELAND/IRELAND’S CONTENT POOL; IGELTIER/STOCK.ADOBE.COM

Ireland’s Ancient East is full of inspiring arts and culture and overflowing with festivals and exhibitions

ince the days of the druids, Ireland’s Ancient East has been alive with artistic inspiration. Today, the region continues to resonate with the echoes of modern-day artisans and performers ranging from sopranos to comedians. With a stellar schedule of annual festivals, you’ll likely run into a celebration of arts and culture no matter when you visit.

FESTIVAL FEVER Not one, but two opera festivals take place in this spectacular corner of Ireland each year. Wexford town has long been the spiritual home of opera, as the host of the National Opera House, but leafy Lismore in west Waterford has its own opera scene. The Blackwater Valley Opera Festival takes its name from the Munster Blackwater, which dog-legs through the county. You’ll

KINGFISHERVISITORGUIDES.COM

watch evocative performances from talented artists on the backdrop of Lismore Castle and other fabulous venues. Founded in 1951 and set against the picturesque backdrop of the ancient Viking town, Wexford Festival Opera has grown into one of the globe’s leading opera festivals. Novelist and founder of Gramophone magazine Compton Mackenzie birthed the idea and it made a name for itself by introducing little-known works and forgotten masterpieces. Along with the main performances, pop-up events include drama and dance shows around Wexford. For most Irish people, culture revolves around ‘craic’ in all its forms. Roughly corresponding to a raucous, sociable version of hygge, craic covers everything from bar-room repartee to the most moving exploration of the human condition – as long as there’s humour. Kilkenny Cat Laughs Festival delivers it in spades. u p51

Opposite page Performance of Le Songe d’une Nuit D’Été at Wexford Festival Opera; Top The Blackwater Valley Opera Festival is a classical music and opera festival held annually in Lismore, and Lismore Castle is one of the spectacular venues where performances often take place

WELCOME TO IRELAND’S ANCIENT EAST

Situated at the heart of medieval Kilkenny City in Ireland’s Ancient East, Butler Gallery is a vibrant contemporary art gallery and museum offering a unique blend of art and history. Butler Gallery aims to inspire visitors with its significant collection of 20th and 21st century Irish art and its diverse tourist offering. From its origins as a Medieval priory in the 13th century, to its time as a military barracks during the Cromwellian invasion of Ireland, and its later use as a 19th century Almshouse for destitute servants, Evans’ Home has an intriguing history. These stories are brought to life through guided-tours, audio-guides and an immersive digital experience.

The Watergate Theatre, situated at the heart of Kilkenny City is the ideal venue for an evening of entertainment. It is a 324-seater theatre with a diverse programme to choose from. Enjoy the very best of national and international performances, curated to provide a diverse, year-round programme for all ages. Choose from theatre, comedy, musical theatre, opera, dance, jazz, trad, classic rock and top-class tribute acts!

VISIT WATERGATETHEATRE.COM

WATERGATE THEATRE, PARLIAMENT STREET, KILKENNY | 056 7761674

KINGFISHERVISITORGUIDES.COM

ARTS & CULTURE

Here, comedians come into their own while mixing with the locals between gigs. The festival’s headliners are generally based at the Hub at Cillín Hill, with other events taking place in venues across the city. The Kilkenomics Festival manages the unlikely feat of mixing comedy with mathematics and finance, bringing together some of the world’s most astute commentators with the finest wit in the land. The festival even features its own currency – the marble – and brings out the important issues with candour.

“Wexford’s 17-day Fringe Festival features around 300 events and usually runs parallel to the Wexford Opera Festival. In terms of a cultural feast, there’s not much you won’t see here, from visual art to dance and music”

Time your trip with the Alternative Kilkenny Arts Fringe Festival to see the best of local arts. It’s a collaboration of people living in the region to recite, perform and exhibit their work alongside national and international artists. You’ll see incredible pieces scattered across the city, including on the Mayor’s Walk. Yulefest Kilkenny takes place throughout December and January, with ice-skating, an atmospheric carousel and traditional Christmas markets. You can even visit the grave of the historical inspiration for Santa Claus, Saint Nicholas, in Jerpoint Park in Thomastown. CULTURAL FEAST Wexford’s 17-day Fringe Festival features around 300 events and usually runs parallel to the Wexford Opera Festival. In terms of a cultural feast, there’s not much you won’t see here, from visual art to dance and music. It incorporates a Spiegeltent Festival featuring Ireland’s most exciting performers in the fields of music, comedy, burlesque, theatre and film. Don’t miss the kick off with Fireworks on the Quay. If you love an off-beat festival, Hook Lighthouse celebrates the traditional Gaelic festival of Imbolc, also known as Brigid’s Day which is a fertility ritual celebrating springtime. Capitalising on Kilkenny’s burgeoning food scene, Savour Kilkenny Food Festival is one of Ireland’s leading

events for foodies and budding chefs. It celebrates the produce of the surrounding pastureland, including the internationally renowned dairy and meat sectors. Tens of thousands of visitors flock here over the October bank holiday weekend to sample scrumptious bites from artisan food stalls. You’ll also learn from the masters via demonstrations from leading Irish and international chefs and celebrities. But wait, that’s not all in the category of tempting your taste buds! Waterford Harvest Festival takes place in early September to highlight the innovative food scene. Restaurants, bars and bistros showcase their best creations, while arts and cultural hotspots feature pop-up events. You’ll always find your fix of theatre and art across Ireland’s Ancient East, a region that brims with local artistic talent. Kilkenny’s love of arts and culture reaches a fever pitch when the Kilkenny Arts Festival takes over the city’s exquisite architectural landmarks. For traditional art galleries in the Marble City, head to the sophisticated Butler Gallery in Kilkenny Castle. u p53

Above Catch unmissable productions at Wexford Festival Opera – pictured is a performance of Edmea at the National Opera House, Wexford

WELCOME TO IRELAND’S ANCIENT EAST

See What You’re Missing! We are located in Carlow Town’s Cultural Quarter on College Street. Our four galleries house a wide collection of items and artefacts that highlight the history and heritage of County Carlow. These include the 19th Century pulpit from Carlow Cathedral, the original gallows trapdoor from Carlow Gaol, the smoking pipe of Captain Myles Keogh, killed at the Battle of Little Big Horn, items relating to John Tyndall, the Carlow scientist who discovered the greenhouse effect, a 340-millionyear-old fossilized squid, and artefacts connected to Kevin Barry, an 18-year-old medical student who was executed for his role in the Irish War of Independence.

Opening Hours Please visit our website at

www.carlowmuseum.ie for details of our current opening hours T. 0599131554 E. museum@carlowcoco.ie Carlow County Museum, College Street, Carlow Town R93 E3T2

KINGFISHERVISITORGUIDES.COM

FREE ENTRY

ARTS & CULTURE

Awe-inspiring collections include everything from painting and drawing to photography and media works. The National Design and Craft Gallery is the only one of its kind in the country, featuring the best in Irish and European contemporary applied arts. Revolving exhibitions join workshops and education programmes aimed at inspiring and pushing the boundaries across a variety of disciplines. Visit Carlow to explore VISUAL, the largest gallery space in Ireland. Along with art exhibitions, the centre hosts theatre and music shows. You’re never far from a gallery in Waterford. The Garter Lane Arts Centre boasts two exhibition spaces housed in a former Quaker meeting house. Here, you’ll admire a year-round programme of locally produced visual art. Alternatively, GOMA Gallery of Modern Art is dedicated to innovation and collaboration, with workshops joining cutting-edge exhibitions.

Above Head to the Butler Gallery in Kilkenny Castle to see contemporary art; Below Watch master cutters in action at the infamous House of Waterford Crystal

galleries, including the Blue Egg Gallery for works in clay, textiles, metal and glass. At the Woodturning Studio, you’ll see the works of Robert O’Connor, regarded among the finest woodturners in Ireland. This is your chance to buy unique Irish gifts and home accessories you won’t find anywhere else. If you’re a culture vulture, you’ll find it hard to leave Ireland’s Ancient East. You’ll likely see talented musicians at local pubs, let alone across the region’s theatres and arts centres. Speaking of which, take your pick of galleries featuring innovative arts and crafts to admire. Better yet, it’s easy to take an artistic piece of this incredible corner of Ireland home with you.

ARTISTS & CRAFTERS Ireland’s Ancient East is a hub for arts and crafts of all levels, with the cream of Ireland’s designers and artists offering their creations across the region. In the north of Kilkenny, Castlecomer Craft Yard is based in the stables and barn at the former Wandesforde family estate. The community of fine artists and craft makers display stunning jewellery, paintings, interior designs and ceramics. Artisans and creative makers like Duiske Glass, Nicholas Mosse, Jerpoint Glass and Rudolf Heltzel are all part of the Made in Kilkenny trail, which puts the best of the county’s basket-weaving, candle-making, textiles, stonework, pottery and glassworks on show at locations across the county. Wexford, meanwhile, is also home to a slew of craft

WELCOME TO IRELAND’S ANCIENT EAST

When night falls… Stylish bars, cosy pubs, live music and jumping clubs – this region really comes alive after dark

elcome to a region that boasts some of the liveliest nightlife in Ireland. Here, socialising isn’t just a weekend thing, but something that’s intrinsic to the community. From the swankiest cocktail bars to whiskey joints and country pubs, Ireland’s Ancient East always heats up once the sun goes down. Night owls who love to pub and bar hop into the wee hours are spoilt for choice across Ireland’s Ancient East. However, don’t worry if you prefer a quiet cocktail in elegant surroundings – there’s plenty for you, too.

LIVE MUSIC Kilkenny offers a large dose of everything fun for everyone after dark. Located in the former Bank of Ireland building, Rive Gauche sparkles in the Irish evening from the outside. Inside, you’re transported to another, older world entirely. It’s a cross between the Moulin Rouge and a New Orleans speakeasy. Admire

KINGFISHERVISITORGUIDES.COM

wonderfully ornate columns and chandeliers before picking a comfortable seat by the roaring fire. Down the hill on Rose Inn Street, there’s Grapevine Wine and Tapas Bar with another atmospheric interior to soak up with your wine and marinated olives. The award-winning Paris Texas Bar, Restaurant and Smokehouse is the place to savour wood-smoked ribs with a choice of around one hundred whiskeys, in an environment inspired by The New Orleans French Quarter. Looking for up-tempo music? Head to the Pumphouse Bar after a show at the Watergate Theatre across the road. The split-level ground floor boasts two bars and live music is a given throughout the week. For drinks with twinkling city and castle views, settle in at the River Court Hotel’s Riverview Bar. Then, hit nearby Matt the Millers Bar for live Irish music and some cracking DJs. The Dylan Whiskey Bar features an American Western theme, for something a little different in Ireland. Raid the

Above Wexford town is the place to be when the annual Wexford Festival Opera is on – pictured is a performance of Le Songe d’une Nuit D’Été at the famous event; Opposite page top Enjoy more than 100 whiskeys as you dine at the award-winning Paris Texas Bar, Restaurant and Smokehouse, Kilkenny

AFTER DARK

Whiskey Library that contains nearly 200 of the finest whiskies, along with premium gins to sip in private snugs by the open turf fire. If you prefer cocktails, Biddy Early’s has been mixing your favourites since 1996 and you’ll savour them in the company of live bands and DJ sets. On a warm evening, make a beeline for The Apple Market triangle as the most atmospheric spot to socialise in Waterford. With wooden furniture, high ceilings and a host of quiet corners, Geoff’s Cafe Bar is the centre of the Apple Market and a fantastic place to start. Then, head to the Revolution for craft beer, whiskey or gin in the company of video screens and interesting memorabilia.

©CLIVE BARDA/ARENAPAL/WEXFORD FESTIVAL OPERA; DYLAN VAUGHAN PHOTOGRAPHY/PARIS TEXAS BAR, RESTAURANT AND SMOKEHOUSE; JAMES PINTAR/STOCK.ADOBE.COM; JOREN ARANAS/UNSPLASH

“From the swankiest cocktail bars to whiskey joints and country pubs, Ireland’s Ancient East always heats up once the sun goes down” Waterford’s pedestrian areas make the city centre easy to navigate for revellers. The Munster Bar, one of the city’s oldest pubs, offers mouthwatering cocktails and high-end pub food amid vintage furniture on Bailey’s New Street. On the banks of the River Suir near Rice Bridge, Metalman is a good spot for a late drink with live music, while nearby An Uisce Beatha is a small pub for an old-style drink. Haven’t been to the Land Down Under? Enjoy all things Australian at the Uluru and Outback Bar on Dunmore Road. Have ‘a bit of tucker’ before throwing back a beer with the footy on the big screen. At Jack Meade’s Bar and Beer Garden, you’ll socialise in a building that dates back to 1705 and rests beneath the Old Stone Bridge in Halfway House. EXCITING EVENINGS Carlow’s status as a college town guarantees a lively evening most nights of the week. Favourites include the Dinn Rí Bar, with live bands each Saturday and sports on the big screens. Another top spot for live music, O’Loughlins rocks Tullow Street with DJs and local musicians. To really let your hair down though, spend the night at The Foundry. The self-proclaimed ‘best nightclub in Ireland’ features all the state-of-the-art lights, DJ tunes and dancefloor moves you could ask for. Ireland’s Ancient East offers a pub to suit every mood. If

you’re looking to end a day of culture and culinary delights with a pint, Wexford town is the place to be. Cornmarket and Monck Street are your destinations of choice in town. Between them is Centenary Stores, a family-run pub with three bars where you can start with a quiet sundowner and stay on until the wee hours with pumping DJ sets. The surrounding area has a host of great pubs to keep you hopping all night. The Mocking Monck features live music on Saturday nights, as does Maggie May’s. If you’re visiting the seaside resort of Rosslare, Meyler’s Millhouse Bar is a family-friendly spot after dark with a pool table, darts and a beer garden. Pub-hopping around Enniscorthy brings you to The Bailey Bar & Eatery where you’ll sample great Irish food with creative cocktails. For more, wander around Market Square and the surrounding streets. On the edge of New Ross, Mannion’s Pub is a bright, traditional Irish pub, and a perfect way to end a day u p57

WELCOME TO IRELAND’S ANCIENT EAST

BROADEN YOUR HORIZONS

Destination inspiration for more than 75 UK and Ireland towns, cities and counties awaits you at the home of staycation content.

Be inspired at:

KINGFISHERVISITORGUIDES.COM FOLLOW US

Search Kingfisher Visitor Guides

AFTER DARK

exploring Hook Head peninsula. Another great choice is Strand Tavern in Duncannon, with amazing sea views to go with seafood dishes and craft beer. Staying on the coast, head to Neville’s Gastro Bar in Fethard Village. When you hop around Kilkenny’s pubs, you’ll likely learn about the sport of hurling from the locals. Head to Henderson’s, Syd Harkin’s and An Poc Fada to find out. Lanigan’s Bar belts out live music all week long and Rafter Dempsey’s is the place for Guinness and great entertainment. Stroll down the High Street-Parliament Street thoroughfare for more pub action. CRAFT BEER & ALES Kyteler’s Inn was originally built by notorious local character Dame Alice Kyteler in 1324. Today, you’ll enjoy two floors of live Irish music and intriguing memorabilia. For arguably the best craft beers in the city, stroll down Parliament Street to O’Hara’s Brewery Corner. With its own IPA, it continues a thousand-year tradition of ale brewing in the region. More beer awaits at Sullivan’s Tap Room, which has outdoor seating, a wonderful open-plan layout and its own brewer. A stretch of casual pubs lines John Street, including the World’s End and Kilkenny House O’Gorman’s for live music sessions. When you want to join the party after the pub, the Kilford Arms is home to O’Faolain’s Bar and Langtons Hotel Kilkenny gets the party started with DJs on the weekends.

KINGFISHERVISITORGUIDES.COM

“For arguably the best craft beers in the city, stroll down Parliament Street to O’Hara’s Brewery Corner. With its own IPA, it continues a thousandyear tradition of ale brewing in the region” Standing astride the tidal Colligan River, Dungarvan is a picturesque town in which to grab a pint or two. It even has its own brewery, the Dungarvan Brewing Company. Several excellent pubs include the Anchor Bar, the Enterprise Bar and Lady Belle. It’s easy to stumble between venues around Grattan Square. The Local is a firm favourite located in a former electrical shop that displayed bottled beer and spirits to prove to the public it was also a licenced premise. For some of the best Irish music sessions the Marine Bar is a must, with live folk music on the weekends. In Waterford town, The Hub is a traditional Irish pub with live music most nights of the week and non-stop sports on the big screens. You’ll find that proper old school pub vibe at Henry Downes, and Thomas Maher Bar is the home of Whiskey Mac and a famous house whiskey. End your days with Guinness and sports at the local pub or dance the night away with DJs and cocktails. From buzzing Kilkenny to coastal Duncannon, you’re never far from a memorable night out in Ireland’s Ancient East.

WELCOME TO IRELAND’S ANCIENT EAST

Things you shouldn’t miss… Make sure you don’t leave here without checking out these must-see attractions

GET IN TOUCH WITH NATURE These counties have some of the finest hill, coastal and riverside walks in the country. Cycle across the impressive Waterford Greenway, or hit the South Leinster trail past Mount Leinster. There is also an excellent walk from Thomastown to Inistoige along the Barrow. There is excellent kayaking among the region’s many epic rivers.

HOOK HEAD Wexford’s south west corner is among the scenic highlights of the region, and is punctuated by ruined castles, abbeys and beaches. The impressive ruins of the 13th-century Tintern Abbey (also the work of the industrious William Marshal) are surrounded by woodland walks. For the windswept Atlantic wilds, visit Hook Lighthouse, accessible to visitors. In good weather, walk the 3km coastal route from Slade, and look out for dolphins.

KINGFISHERVISITORGUIDES.COM

THINGS TO DO

IRISH NATIONAL HERITAGE PARK Located on the banks of the picturesque River Slaney, The Irish National Heritage Park is the cornerstone of Ireland’s Ancient East. Experience the reality of how ordinary people lived in Ireland as 9,000 years of history is re-created within natural forestry and wet woodlands.

ST CANICE’S CATHEDRAL St Canice’s Cathedral is one of the most prominent sights in Kilkenny. Many believe the construction of the massive Gothic cathedral began in the 1250s and was completed in 1285, but the religious roots of the site extend back to the 6th century, when the Church of St Canice stood here. The cathedral has maintained many of its 13th-century features.

©BRADEN COLLUM UNSPLASH; BRIAN MORRISON/FÁILTE IRELAND/TOURISM IRELAND/ IRELAND’S CONTENT POOL; PIXABAY; PIXS:SELL/STOCK.ADOBE.COM; SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; THE IRISH NATIONAL HERITAGE PARK; WATERFORD CITY & COUNTY COUNCIL/VISITWATERFORD.COM

WATERFORD TREASURES Named after the Old Norse vedrafjord (windy harbour is one translation), Waterford is the oldest city in Ireland and is best investigated by exploring five museums in the Viking Triangle: the Medieval Museum, the Bishop’s Palace, the Museum of Time, the Museum of Silver and the early 13th-century Reginald’s Tower, one of only six surviving of 17 towers which lined the city walls.

LISMORE Overlooking the mighty Munster Blackwater and featuring charming turrets and extensive gardens (which are open to the public), Lismore Castle is a sight to behold. Today belonging to the Duke of Devonshire, it was designed by Joseph Paxton (of Crystal Palace fame) on the ruins of a 12th-century castle. The town also boasts a fascinating cathedral, built in the 1600s.

Also worth a look… KILKENNY CASTLE The impressive hall of this stately regal stronghold of Anglo-Norman rule in Ireland, built by William Marshal and later passed to the Catholic Anglo-Irish Butler family, lent the Marble City its name. It’s difficult to imagine now that it was in disrepair as recently as the early 1970s. Its restoration makes it a must-see destination.

HIT THE BEACH This region has some of the most accessible beaches in Ireland, from the long sandy stretch of Courtown, beloved by Dubliners, to the Blue Flag beaches at Rosslare or Duncannon, to Dunmore East, Stradbally and Ardmore. HAVE A TIPPLE Forget the Dublin hype: the provinces are where you get the real Irish pub experience. Kilkenny’s pubs are particularly renowned, but in reality you’re never far from a fine pint and grand company.

RINN GAELTACHT The region’s only Irish-speaking area is all that’s left of a Gaeilgeoir community which, 200 years ago, covered County Waterford. A lightly populated area of about 1,000 people, it has some fine bars. Learn some Irish and try out your cúpla focail on the locals.

WELCOME TO IRELAND’S ANCIENT EAST

SPORT & LEISURE

Get out and get active! There are plenty of opportunities to participate in sport here – but those who prefer to watch are well-catered for too

elcome to the centre of Ireland’s Hurling Belt, an area stretching from the plains of Galway to Cork and Wexford, with Kilkenny as its beating heart. Here, this ancient pursuit – the fastest field sport in the world – is a way of life. You could say that hurling is to Kilkenny what rugby is to New Zealand. The difference is even elite county hurlers don’t get paid, and must combine their vocation with a regular job (and club duties!). Alone among Ireland’s 32 counties, Kilkenny does not have a senior Gaelic Football team. Football is an afterthought to the very serious business of schooling generations in the arts of the ash stick. And school them they do.

KILKENNY CATS Under Brian Cody (an actual schoolteacher), Kilkenny – The Cats – have been the pre-eminent team in hurling’s modern era, maybe the greatest of all time. In the years 2000-2015, Kilkenny won 11 All-Ireland hurling finals, including four in a row. They are the most successful team in hurling history and make up, with Cork and Tipperary, the Big Three. Check them out. Across the Suir lie their fierce rivals, Waterford. Nicknamed the Déise after an ancient tribe, they are enduring a long drought of All-Ireland success going back to 1959, and suffered a cruel near-miss in reaching the All-Ireland final in 2017. They did, however win the league in 2007 and 2015, and doubled up by winning the highly competitive Munster hurling title in 2015. Wexford have their own proud hurling tradition, and were All-Ireland champions in 1996. These days the Yellowbellies are mere provincial hopefuls, last winning the Leinster title in 2004, although in the 2017 semi-finals they beat Kilkenny, a rare feat, and the sport is alive and well. Wexford also field a competitive Gaelic Football team – as do Carlow, who bear the distinction of being named the ‘scallioneaters’, a charming nickname stemming from the area’s 1800s onion industry. Carlow’s

KINGFISHERVISITORGUIDES.COM

footballers had a good 2018, beating Louth and Kildare in the Leinster Football Championship. The previous year, they took Wexford’s scalp, before losing to a great Dublin side. Carlow’s hurling clubs also have their moments. In 2013, Mount Leinster Rangers won the Leinster Club Hurling Championship, beating Dublin superclub Ballyboden St Enda’s. They may be one of the smaller counties, but when it comes to Gaelic games, it’s clear that Carlow know their onions. Of course, there are other sports apart from hurling or football. Soccer (association football) remains the most popular participatory sport in Ireland, and is most visible in the cities and

Above Go kayaking at the coast with friends and family and see some stunning surroundings in County Wexford

towns, not least at the Regional Sports Ground, home to Waterford FC, winners of the 2017 First Division title, for which supporter-owned Wexford FC also competes. RUGBY CLUBS Rugby remains a minority pursuit. Although there are five rugby clubs in Wexford and two in Carlow, there are just one each in Kilkenny and Waterford. By way of comparison, there are 43 GAA clubs (and 12 adult ladies soccer teams) in Kilkenny alone, and around 40 soccer clubs in the county.

WELCOME TO IRELAND’S ANCIENT EAST

Finding your way around Getting to this region couldn’t be simpler and visitors can also get around with ease

ying at the point closest to both the European mainland and Great Britain, Ireland’s Ancient East has great connectivity, whether travelling by air, sea, rail or road.

BY SEA There are regular sailings into Rosslare Europort, at the tip of County Wexford, from five destinations: Fishguard in Wales, Cherbourg, Roscoff and Le Harve in France, and Santander in Spain. BY AIR There is an airport near Waterford City, which has flights from London Luton, Manchester and Birmingham. Dublin Airport, however, will probably be your first port of call. Ireland’s busiest transit port by far, it has over 20 intercontinental air routes, as well as sundry flights to

KINGFISHERVISITORGUIDES.COM

destinations across Europe and the Middle East – including Europe’s most popular route from London Heathrow. Shannon Airport, near Limerick, is a little tricky to get to from the south east by car (the N24 which runs from Limerick to Waterford takes about three hours), but it does have some fantastic transatlantic routes. Cork Airport, meanwhile is perfect for visiting Waterford, in particular. BY ROAD The region is crisscrossed by motorways and national primary routes. All four counties are easily accessible from Dublin Airport via the scenic M7/M9 and M11 motorways. Less busy than Ireland’s other motorways, M9 is a particular joy to drive once you leave the M7 near Newbridge in County Kildare and head for the hills of Carlow. The N25 road from Cork is also steadily improving, and Cork-Dungarvan is about an hour’s drive.

Above Travel along Waterford Greenway by bike – it covers an impressive 46km

TRAVEL

“Ireland’s Ancient East has great connectivity, whether travelling by air, sea, rail or road. The region is crisscrossed by motorways and national primary routes, and there are also regular buses across the south coast” There are also regular buses across the south coast, from Cork City to Waterford and Rosslare, via Dungarvan. Waterford City itself is about two hours’ drive from Dublin, while driving from the capital to Carlow will take you about one hour 20 minutes – it’s even quicker from Dublin Airport, via the M50 and the M7/M9. Kilkenny is about 90 minutes from Dublin Airport meanwhile, on the same route. For Wexford, take the M11/N11 motorway system south from Dublin through Wicklow. Wexford town takes about two hours from Dublin Airport, and about 90 minutes from the southern cross of the M50 orbital route. The drive through Wicklow and the Glen of the Downs, is stunning at times, and is either dual carriageway of motorway for most of the journey until after Gorey. New Ross, at the confluence of the Nore and Barrow estuaries, is about a two-hour drive from Dublin Airport, meanwhile.

Carlow is the county most easily reached from Dublin by road – it takes a little as an hour to get to the county town from the M50 around Dublin. BUS & RAIL Ireland’s rail system isn’t as extensive as elsewhere in Europe, but the trains are fast, reliable, and offer excellent, free WiFi. There is a regular rail line to Wexford from Dublin Connolly and Pearse stations, which offers some of the best coastal rail scenery in Europe. From Dublin Heuston station, Waterford City (Plunkett station) is two hours by train, and goes via Carlow and Kilkenny MacDonagh stations. Add another 30 minutes if you’d like to travel by bus instead. All major towns are connected by Bus Eireann, which offers an open-road ticket for €60 for three days travel within a period of six consecutive days.

WELCOME TO IRELAND’S ANCIENT EAST

Ready to explore more? Although this region has more than enough to keep you busy, a journey further afield can make for an exciting new adventure

his quartet of counties straddle some of the most beautiful natural landscapes in Europe. Just north of Wexford is the awe-inspiring beauty of the Wicklow Mountains, and the pretty towns and gardens that have named Wicklow the Garden County.

HEAD INTO THE HILLS Visit the Palladian majesty of Powerscourt Hotel and Gardens near charming Enniskerry village – or, if you want the wilds, head into the hills and visit the ancient Glendalough, founded by St Kevin (look up the immortal poem Seamus Heaney wrote about him). You’re also just a quick drive away from Dublin, with its ever-varied nightlife, coffee and tech culture, magnificent castle, twin cathedrals, impressive zoo, and cultural riches that include Trinity College, Chester Beatty, and Ireland’s

KINGFISHERVISITORGUIDES.COM

finest galleries. If you’d like to continue your exploration of Ireland’s East, meanwhile, use the M50 to head to Meath, home to Newgrange and the Brú na Bóinne network of megalithic passage tombs. You’ve also got Clonmacnoise, Durrow, and Kildare monasteries, plus sundry other stately homes and castles – memories of a time when Leinster was the beachhead for successive British monarchs’ control of Ireland. Then there’s the small matter, in the Southwest, of Cork and Kerry – the two most popular tourist destinations in Ireland after Dublin. Cork city itself is just over an hour’s drive from Dungarvan in Waterford. Built on a manychannelled delta inside one of the world’s largest natural harbours, ‘rebel Cork’ has long had an independent streak and is again on the up, with a construction boom reshaping the city and a revitalised arts scene.

BEYOND IRELAND’S ANCIENT EAST

“This quartet of counties straddle some of the most beautiful natural landscapes in Europe. See the awe-inspiring beauty of the Wicklow Mountains, and the stunning Lakes of Killarney, home to the highest mountains in Ireland”

Visit Fota Wildlife Park on Cork Harbour (via train is best), shop til you drop on Patrick Street and Opera Lane or grab a coffee in the famous English Market and absorb the city’s relaxed vibe. BEAUTY APLENTY West of Cork city, there is beauty aplenty all along the Lee Valley, from the sprawling Ballincollig Regional Park, in which gunpowder was produced for the Napoleonic Wars, to the flooded sylvan graveyard of the Gearagh, and the remote hillsides of the Gaeltacht regions. Among the Cork and Kerry mountains lies a real treat: Gougane Barra, an island monastery in the middle of a lake surrounded by steep, forested hillsides. Cork is best savoured on the coast, with dozens of stunning beaches stretching from Garryvoe near Bally-

cotton in East Cork to Garrettstown and Inchydoney in the west of Cork. Cork’s coastal towns are renowned for their beauty not least Ireland’s culinary capital Kinsale, alternative Clonakilty, or the historic port of Bantry, gateway to the Beara peninsula. Further west again is Kerry, home to the Lakes of Killarney, where you’ll find swimming deer, ruined churches on wooded islands, the famous Ladies View (beloved of Queen Victoria), and the highest mountains in Ireland: the MacGillycuddy Reeks. While most tour coaches follow the Ring of Kerry, locals will often head to another Gaeltacht on the Dingle peninsula, home to Fungie the dolphin, Inch Beach, Mount Brandon and beautiful, remote coastal communities. From lively Dublin to the scenic Southwest, heart-warming Ireland is on your doorstep.

Opposite page See stunning views from the Wicklow Mountains in Leinster; Above The Lakes of Killarney in County Kerry

WELCOME TO IRELAND’S ANCIENT EAST

Photo finish Comeragh Mountains, County Waterford

See Exquisite Pieces of Crystal manufactured before your eyes Guided Factory Tours Daily

C: +353 (0) 51 317000 E: houseofwaterfordcrystal@fiskars.com W: www.waterfordvisitorcentre.com