SS/19 Womenswear Trend Book

Page 1

A to Z

Fashion Trends The Colorfield

‘Womenswear’ SS19


A

As ymmetry

With asymmetry creating impact across many apparel categories, what better way to update the perennial woven shirt for summer than with criss-cross closures or dissected detailing. A wrapover front is the simplest way to tap into this trend. Add a touch of decorative naivety to simple shapes with wood or bone-imitation buttons in upscaled proportions. The mood for offbeat, imperfect looks is translated commercially via asymmetric hemlines for dresses & skirts. Consider this direction for occasion and eveningwear, especially with lace and silky satins, as well as for sheer and chiffon day dresses. A great move-on from the summer bohemian trend, tap into the growing lust for recontextualised vintage via pieced and panelled print-mixing. This asymmetrical look is just like the pieced dress as creates flow and rhythm. It exhibts modern eclecticism by clashing together everything from prairie ditsies to paisleys and checks on fluid shapes. To further design direction, asymmetry complements the artistic nature of this trend.


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Marni Marni

The Inspiration Provider

Dries Van Noten

Adeam Ate Adeam

Autumn/Winter 2018

New York


B

Blocage des couleurs! In fashion terms, colour blocking is considered to be the use of contrasting blocks or panels of solid, typically bright colours. This trend is grabbing attention this Summer and is updated through spliced designs for a fresh aesthetic. Chevron motifs, interrupted stripes and diagonal lines create a dynamic and flattering take, particularly for swim and sport looks this season. But keeping in mind the interests and varied tastes of fashion enthusiasts, not everyone is allured to bright and contrasting colours! That is exactly why muted and earthy tones are essential for commerciality. Key shades of the season, such as sherbet yellow, lift the look and give it a sprightly touch. Brightly coloured stripes continue to be key, evolving into wider and bold scales for a transseasonal update. For a subtle update, a single stripe on the sleeve is seen in asymmetrical renditions or as simple rib and cuff detailing.


blocking

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Azure Gibbana

Dennis Basso Dennis Basso

Spring/Summer 2018

New York

Harper_s_Bazaar_Germany_Harper_s_Bazaar_Germany_1.jpg

Cortico

Harper’s Bazaar- German y


C

Check ered!

Checks are spotted across key fabric and fashion shows continually. Like the vintage, this is also one undying trend. Bright checks offer a welcome alternative to the array of classic styles currently seen, and will be especially important for skirts, summer outerwear and tops. Styles vary greatly, from Madras checks to tartans. So don’t let go of any old checkered shirts or skirts from earlier seasons because you can pair it differently this summer with a whole new colour palette! The check print is applied to shirting and outerwear with an arty, classic and collegiate direction. Consider how contrast print and extreme macro scales create a more youthful take on a traditional check. Summer checks will remain a key commercial direction for S/S 19, with pastel iterations ideal for spring drops. Versatile across multiple categories, these lighthearted plaids feature warm, upbeat pastels, while core commercial options remain through neutral grounds or pastels as an accent only.


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Slam Jam Slam Jam

April 2018

Shanghai

Fashion Week Streets

Gucci

Ports Ports 1961

Spring/Summer 2018

London


D

Drapes!

Drapes as a trend have been derived from Primitive Times as a story and literally. They have constantly kept in and out of style and in SS19 have come with an all new direction. New colours, new fabrics and of course new drapes is what is hot this season. Innovative pleating and gathering create fluid movement and controlled proportions in light satiny reflections or semi- transparent silk textures. A variety of drapes is in vogue this summer and trendy separates get edgy when worn together. Satin is much sought after when experimenting with drapes of all kinds. Soft drapes, twists and folds create a flattering update to simple dress shapes. As soft volume silhouettes and subtly deconstructed looks continue to do well commercially, draped dresses are an easy sell across categories, working particularly well for contemporary and 35+ as well as for modest dressing. This is a look that offers plenty of versatility, applied across the board, from demure minidresses to careerwear ranges and more revealing slit midis,Key categories: partywear, careerwear, modest collections. Moving the focus from sleeves and cuffs to collars and necklines, cleverly draped fabric is folded and constructed to form beautiful, organic silhouettes that provide a modern take on 1980s dressing. Subtle variations create the illusion of a neck scarf attached to the blouse for a two-in-one aesthetic.


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Joseph Jos

Joseph

Joseph

Autumn/Winter 2018

Autumn/Winter 2018

Joseph Jos

Paris

Paris

V Magazine

Awak e On


E

Embellishments!

Embellished head band! The return of power dressing has signalled the coming of a less casual, more put-together look. Earlier, we saw the rise of simple yet utilatarian headgears and hair accessories but this summer calls for bold, attention seeking and pizzazz ornamentation.

First, the focus was on daywear, but now evening and occasionwear have grabbed the limelight, with party dressing making a major comeback.For headwear and hair accessories, this trend is all about embellishment, with crystal, beading and pendants all key this season. Visually, the look gives you a vague memory of the 1960’s Hippie headbands but this time with sophisticated adornment! Single pendants worn on the forehead tap into the return of Bohemian styling, while more densely fringed 1920s-inspired bands and caps, tap into the renewed focus on vintage items. The novel direction here is the exaggeration with respect to embellishments. With this, once again Vintage has proved to be the mother of statement trends!


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embellished band1

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headbane3

Nobi Talai

Spring/Summer 2018

@yohogirl

Union Management

Nobi Talai

Gucci

Paris

Gucci

Pre-Summer 2018

Milan


F

Florals!

Florals are the talk of every SS season. This time the floral story focuses on naive, childlike versions which tap into the playful and creative vibe creating the element of desire. Simple and stylised designs are at pace with expressive handpainted looks. Variations in print and texture include both densely packed and spaced-out styles. This gives you an opportunity to don your floral favourites that enhance your persona. Multi-direction flowers add a sense of irregularity and imperfection which is much coveted in the season. Windowpane checks with an almost tablecloth feel provide a fresh ground for tops and dresses, driving newness for perennial spring florals. Childlike florals is the key word here as it best describes the mood you should be bearing. Speaking of fabric direction, textured florals take the best of lace and flora. This new direction for lace can be worked in everything from easy garden pastels, to challenging bright pairings.Introduce a couple of price tiers, a mid-level multicoloured lace, and then use embellishments and overworked florals to offer some more distinctive designs for exit-level pieces.


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prv0218_IMG_6527 The Colorfield

March 2018

New York

New York

Vogue Turk e y

February 2018 Paris

The Colorfield

The Colorfield

Susie Bubble


G

Geometry!

Geometrics have always been a perennial staple be it Spring-Summer or Autumn-Winter, and have become relevant again recently. With mid-level and high-end designers employing discreet geos for grown-up and demure styles, the craze for geometric patterns and prints is going to be wild this season. Opt for watercolour textures over vector repeats to provide depth and a little luxury, and elevate further with pattern-blocking and contrasting colours. This trend takes on a sophisticated quality, with earthy and muted shades providing a diverse range of palette to choose from. Both retro and global traveller-inspired styles are seen, reinterpreted in a contemporary aesthetic which provides plenty of commercial potential. Symmetrical tile styles, handpainted designs and small-scale foulard looks are used across soft dresses, tops and bottomweights, in both woven and knitted fabrications. This time the trend is given a direction of unusual colours, patterns and sizes. the Once again geos have not failed to impress us with a broad spectrum to don this summer!


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Caroline Constas

Lalesso

Pop

A Peace treat y


H

Hot Tangerine!

Hot Tangerine! 2018 gave rise to ‘hazard’ tones of orange and those shades strayed into a more wearable direction in 2019. Hot shades of Tangerine are bordering on red and creating all the drama needed this summer. This trend will evidently be seen during the peak of summer as that time of the year will do justice to the colour. Accent pieces span all categories, looking equally fresh on leather goods as they do on this season’s must-have monochrome sunglasses. Footwear is no exception! Hot orange is the shade you want to own in statement pieces be it shoes, accessories or fastenings. Earthy colours and materials will provide contrast for orange, from wooden handles on bags to vegetal green apparel worn in contrast with orange accessories. Designers have highlighted a strong seasonal direction with deep teal paired against tangerine hues. You could try other base colours too as long as nothing subdues the tropical tangerine.


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Sachin_

Salvatore_Ferragamo_fgm_det_ss18_063.jpg Roksanda

Spring/Summer 2018

London

Rok sanda

Diane Von Furstenberg Diane von Furstenberg

Salvatore Ferragamo Salvatore Ferragamo

Spring/Summer 2018

Milan

Sachin & Babi

Spring/Summer 2018

Spring/Summer 2018

New York

New York

Sachin & Babi


M

Metallics!

Metallic! Future-proofing your wardrobe is as simple as investing in a slash of metallic. Create the effect of shine and sheen using a combination of different surface textures is what will make you stand out this season. From fluid and drapey chainmail and liquidlook silks, to lustrous coated leathers that have a molten quality SS19 will see metallic once again with a whole new direction. The finished look has a fantastical element, heavy on narrative and escapist in spirit. Powder metallics work across the spectrum, from pearlescent pinks to warm golds and chromatic colour-shifting effects as seen in pictures alongside. Super-soft lightweight skins dominate, partnering perfectly with ethereal, mellow metallics. Darker variations, glitter finishes and optical metallics have a party feel, working well for statement eveningwear pieces. power finishes remain popular for S/S 19, with supple skins and a warm palette embodying a soft summer mood.


Bopell

Paris

Paris

February 2018

February 2018

Soydan

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February 2018

Paris

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Juliana Jabour

Fashion Editorials

Autumn/Winter 2018

Juliana Jabour

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Italhide

Bopell Silver

Sao Paulo

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N

1980’s

Nineteen Eighties inspired designs drive newness across multiple categories this season. Especially the blouse category wherein the volume and ruffle tops are most sought after, but moving the look into a fresher direction. Powerful, 1980s-inspired exuberance has been infiltrating the catwalks for some time now. For the commercial market these notions take on a softer, more femme guise for S/S 19. Leg-of-mutton styles emerge as the newest silhouette. Lightly padded shoulders, subtle puff sleeves, textured silks, dolman sleeves and waist-defined shapes are key features of this trend. The 1980s trend is an important direction for partywear, and there are several ways to interpret this fashion-forward theme at commercial level. Cocktail-style mini lengths are often the most obvious choice when thinking about the 1980s, so consider them for occasionwear offerings. Emphasis on shoulderlines and soft ruching adds a glam feel to minidresses, with bold red tones and eye-catching patterns reinforcing the 1980s feel. Denims have also marked their category in the return of the period trend! High-waisted mom jeans and skirts are seen alongside throwback resort shirts & 1980s pastels.


utumn/Winter 2018

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Attic o Isabel Marant

Autumn/Winter 2018

Paris

Isabelle Marant

Milan

Magda Butrym

Ak ira Nak a


O

Off- Shoulder!

Off shoulder has always been in trend and is still not going anywhere. The off shoulder dress is the ultimate occasionwear statement, look no further than an A-line, shoulder-baring dress. A sweeping A-line silhouette takes inspiration from 1950s prom dressing. The summer jersey fashion basic is updated with an off-shoulder shape and oversized lace-up details. Heavily inspired from the 1950’s this trend is here to stay! Lightweight material is a must; consider printed tulle, semi-sheer chiffon, or cottons for a more structured finish. Slips are updated with details inspired by women’s apparel. Off-shoulder shapes and cutout details sit with a jersey and lace mix for a relaxed feel is perfect for the hot summer season!


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Oysho

Erdem Erdem

Calvin Klein

Free People Free {eople


P

Pieced-dress!

Pieced dress- Can’t decide on ditsy, vintage or tropical floras? Then why not have all three? Pieced applications are the freshest way to move on the floral dress for spring. This amazing idea and trend gives hope to cutting and stitching old/ dead stock to give it a fresh new look. Dresses are revived in the form of playful contrast pieces and panelling.

Asymmetric constructions look fresh and flattering, though this ontrend application works well across limitless dress shapes. Go bold on colour, using bright fuchsias, turquoise, yellow and red for the ultimate summer statement. The pieced dress is in itself a statement piece as the concoction of various trends become one.


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Diane Von Frustenberg

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Acne Studios

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Borgo De Nor Borgo Do Nor

Saloni


R

Ruffles!

Ruffles are important to the Latin Sensuality theme, and are key in this season’s collections. The cascading effect is applied to tops and dresses, creating the alluring movement the theme requires, but even tailoring sees this design detail used to make items feel fresh. The iterm trend is seen across various categories such as swimwear, casual wear and beach wear as the fun element is retained for all trends this summer season! The fad is all about a feel good and optimistic approach to life with joyful fantasies. Inventive ruffle and frill details continue to give a decorative focus to dresses, tops and crew-neck styles. Trims are worked in largescale and contrasting colour combinations to update tops and dresses for a dressier feel. 1980s-inspired detailing places ruffles along shoulders and sleeves, while the peplum returns as a decorative frill or ruffle detail along hem edges for nipped-in waist styles.


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Aqua de Coco by Liana Thomaz

Autumn/Winter 2018

Sao Paulo

Aqua de Coco

Philosoph y di Lorenzo Selaphini

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Tunich

Juliana Jabour

Autumn/Winter 2018

Sao Paulo

Juliana Jabour


S

Sheers!

Sheers came through strongly on the catwalks and sheer looks set to create styles massively in SS19. A bizarre play with unexpected colour combinations led to high interest and spread of this trend. Shades such as neutrals with fashion brights including red and yellow hues are used in a modish manner. We see rise in modern minimalism as sheer trims become almost invisible within garments White and calming pastels are key for technical, synthetic textile trims. The pencil skirt or simple dress lend themselves well to this trend which will soon become a fast fad. Delicate sheer overlays add a soft perspective to this season’s growing layering sentiment. Although this might appear as a slightly impractical, lesser-used item at first, it actually offers a lightweight, travel-friendly option to transform simple outfits. Providing coverage, while softly revealing skin beneath, sheer dusters, trenches and coverups can truly change a look, be it from day-to-evening, beachto-bar or just extra coverage for a formal environment. They take very little space, are a great colour and pattern vehicle.


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Gucci

Autumn/Winter 2018

Milan

Gucci

Brognano Brognano

Inna Gryt ysk

Autumn/Winter 2018

Milan

Bonnie Young


T

Tiered Trapeze!

Tiered Trapezes are made for the hottest of summer days! They are cut from lightweight cotton with an exaggerated A-line silhouette which is as stylish as it is flattering. The ultimate throwover, the trapeze can travel from beach to bar, with delicate shirred tiers creating ease of movement. These easy-breezy outfits are trending this summer and will be commonly seen this season. Lightweight cottons and chiffon provide fluidity. Long-line sleeves come secured with tie-closures, creating balloon volume. Opt for sunny shades of vermillion yellow, tangerine and scarlet for an on-trend summer statement. The modest maxiskirt is updated via billowy and tiered prairieinspired silhouettes.The perfect transitional piece, craft in lightweight, floaty cotton florals to provide a soft femininity that will transcend effortlessly through summer and autumn. Maxis can be considered commercially difficult, however ankle-grazing lengths work for ease of wear. This item is all about balance; pairing it with simple white trainers makes it daytime appropriate.


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Rejina P yo

MiH Jeans

We the People

Fashion Editorials


U

Utilit y!

Utility pieces continue to gradually, but surely pick up pace, with overalls, utility jackets and chinos all moving from core casuals, to fashion pieces. Utility details offer a quick way to tap into this look, particularly for casual bottomweights and denim. Use contrast colour straps, zip tapes and draw cords to define the look. Utility Shacket is a novel trend and a great option for discarded cotton twills and denim alike, this utility jacket has a boxy silhouette and features a sharp pointed collar and patch pockets on the front. For the buttons, working with hardware left over from jean manufacture is stylish.Tapping into the utilitarian trend also coming through within trousers, the utility skirt offers a feminine touch for S/S 19. Versatile to the core, this item lends itself to an array of silhouettes, from boxy minis and straight knee-lengths, to structured A-lines. Incorporate utility musings via oversized pockets, statement self-belts, button closures and contrast seam detailing. Stiff cotton canvases or denims work best in terms of fabric and are trending this spring-summer!


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Rejina P yo

Alexa Chung

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MiH Avatar

Acne Studios


V

Vintage!

Vintage dressing continues to gain momentum as Young Millennials are shopping vintage in a new way. With vintage boutiques creating strong followings on Instagram, the evening blouse is a commercially accessible way to tap into the trend, working across women’s and young women’s markets. This undying trend has returned with new directions in terms of fabrics and colours. But the silhouette remains the same.Pieces from the late 1980s to early 2000s are immensely popular and will gain crazy momentum over time. Easygoing dresses and woven separates are key, styled with vintage belts, gold jewellery and minimalist footwear. Volume sleeves are still of importance, though more classic styles move the look on from the 1980s. Opt for peasant, Juliet and bishop sleeves, cinched at the wrist, with Victoriana button detailing securing the centre-front. Silk, satin and viscose add lightness and luxury to this keepsake piece. The young consumer is sorting through vintage, finding affordable pieces. After all who can resist vintage apparel!


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Attico

Diane von Furstenberg

Attico

Spring/Summer 2018

New York

Diane Von Frustenberg

Milan

Saint Laurent Saint Laurent

Pre-Fall 2018

Spring/Summer 2018

Paris

Sick y Magazine


W

Wrap!

Wrap silhouettes are already proven commercial heros that meet the sartorial nuances of the shirt dress, creating a smart/casual hybrid that boasts versatility all the way from the office to beachbound weekends. Cut from breezy cotton poplin, the wrap dress flatters with slimming vertical stripes, picnic ginghams or contrast panelling. A collarless V-front creates a relaxed summer mood, cut to midi and maxi length proportions, tempering a flowing silhouette by drawing the waistline in with a matching belt. Wrapped shirt dresses have also not failed to create a trend this summer 19. Wrap and robe dresses continue to enjoy fantastic success as the demands are overwhelming! Layering over shirts, skintight tops and palazzo trousers for a more demure look will resonate best earlier in the season. It’s commercial potential has already been proven, so don’t be afraid to buy sheer as well as floral styles in large volumes.


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Diane Von Frustrenberg

Saint Laurent

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Regina P yo

Garmentory


X

Xtreme Paperbag!

Xteme Paperbag bottoms! Relaxed wide-leg trousers come through in a cropped length with a gigantic paperbag waist this season. This trend has been carried forward from the SS18 ramps. Cinching the waist to give a more extreme silhouette is stylish. This season it’s all about volume, as a play on proportion gives shorts new life for the Chinese womenswear market. Paperbag waists provide volume for boxier shapes. While focus on the waist is key, there are no rules when it comes to hemlines and lengths, so styles appear in wide-legged, slim-fit, long-line and cropped varieties. The new direction here is that the cinched waistline is carried upward & fastening begin from below giving it a pleated look. Oversized shorts with the comfort and security of a high-waist silhouette are detailed with sport-core track stripes and trend colour tones. Hems are left raw and a tonal belt provides the key accent to create the paperbag look. This relaxed style has been building presence for a couple of seasons, with interesting takes on fastening and trims.A renewed focus on the waist sees a resurgence in paperbag designs, heavily influencing the trousers category for the Chinese womenswear market.


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Vogue

Herra Welling

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Rueen Rueen Tao Bao

Ben Taverni


Y

Yellow!

Yellow is a keeper when it comes to Spring-Summer. And this season brought whole new shades of yellow to die for. It has had the most impact on women’s footwear especially sandals. Yellow gathers traction as a standalone colour, ranging from sharp pastel shades through to sunshine brights. Look out for hues of the colour as it carries the power to complement any outfit! Sherbet yellow plays on the already popular Gen Z yellow direction, albeit in a more wearable, commercial way. These shades work across stories, from soft blocking to top-to-toe colour. Pale yellow tones feel fresh in bold ombré dips, ranging from pastel to vivid purple and red tones, while also working nicely against the greyed-out checks prevalent in tailored suiting.This season’s neutrals will adopt more yellowed-off casts as well. Balmy yellows take pride this season! Yellow continues to offer an eye-catching pop of colour to grab attention on social media or to lift shop floor assortments. Workwear and utility wear are also heavily inspired from this trend. To highlight a trim or add a fun accent, nothing can beat yellow! Hyper-feminine items such as tulle skirts and sheer dresses will use pops of yellow to give the look a more grounded, streetwear feel, bringing fussy looks into commercial territory and playing into the ongoing hi-lo styling trend.


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Monts

Fashion Week Streets

February 2018

Milan

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Loeffler Randal

Porter Porter Mgazine


Z

Zig-Zags!

Zig-zags have returned with a whole new direction and are going to be commonly seen among fashion enthusiasts this summer. Colour blocking and ‘chevron’ intertwine to create a fresh aesthetic. Swim and sport looks experience this trend a lot as zig-zag is all about motion. Chevron motifs, interrupted stripes and diagonal lines create a dynamic and flattering take. Graphics also have a major role in the trend. These tortuous lines give more impact when paired with graphic dominant contrasting colours. In casual wear, zig-zags and chevrons are mostly used in details and trims or along necklines. Graphic effects such as layered cuff and hem details in contrast tones, stripes, blocking and chevrons also work for a sportif effect. Cardigans with a V- neck and huge buttons are seen with the chevron to add some drama!


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Jigsaw Jigsaw

Harper’s Bazaar- German y

Danielle Cathari

Bershk a- USA

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