RC Sport Flyer Dec 2012 (Vol 17-10) by RC Flyer News

NEW Flame Wheel F450Quad-copter

pg 56

Worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Most In-Depth RC Aircraft Magazine

DHC-2 Beaver

Fly it Like the Full Scale

Nano CP X

Go Full-On 3D with this Heli

Exclusive Radio Range Tests

Get the Inside Scoop on Real-World Performance Warbirds Overthe Rockies See All the 2012 Action pg 20

december 2012

USA & Canada $6.49 Like

rc-sf.com

A7000 Retract Servo AR10000 10-Channel DSMX™ Aircraft Receiver

spektrumrc.com

TM1000 DSMX FullRange Telemetry Module

TM1000

• Sends telemetry data to your transmitter or STi™-enabled device • Compatible with DSM2™ and DSMX transmitters and receivers • Full range for models that often fly to the limits of sight • Multiple sensors available • Built-in signal strength sensor

D SM X FU LL- RA NG E T E LE M ET RY MO D U L E

1 0- C H AN N E L D SMX A I RCRA F T R E CE I V E R

R E T RACT S E R V O

AR10000

• DSM2 and DSMX compatible • Patented MultiLink™ Receiver technology • Includes two remote receivers with the option to add a third • 2048 resolution • High-speed 11ms mode • Flight Log and telemetry capable

A7000

• 260 oz-in of torque for heavier landing gear and higher speeds • Adjustable endpoints • Adjustable speed • Metal gear train and ball bearing output for long life

©2011 Horizon Hobby, Inc. The Spektrum trademark is used with permission of Bachmann Industries, Inc. US patent 7,391,320.Other patents pending. The Spektrum logo, Bind-N-Fly, DSMX, DSM2, STi and MultiLink are trademarks or registered trademarks of Horizon Hobby, Inc.iPad®, iPhone® and iPod touch® are trademarks of Apple Inc., registered in the U.S. and other countries. 32741.1

Spektrum Keeps You in Complete Command

STi Spektrum Telemetry Interface • Send telemetry info to your iPhone®, iPad® or iPod touch® • View rpm, temps, voltage, airspeed, altitude and more in one easy-to-read display • Set alerts for when values exceed limits you define • Great way to let a buddy watch telemetry info while you fly

CONTROL STICK TO SERVO AND EVERYTHING IN BETWEEN

S P E KT R U M T E L E ME T RY I N T E R FAC E

STi

Spektrum gives you more than the best 2.4GHz RC technology available. It also gives you the unmatched situational awareness of the most advanced telemetry available, more receiver choices for specific applications and a growing line of high-performance servos - basically, everything you need for completely integrated control and command of your most valuable models. Go to spektrumrc.com right now to see the entire selection of Spektrum™ transmitters, receivers, servos and accessories.

VISIT

Your Local Retailer

CLICK

horizonhobby.com

CALL

1.800.338.4639

SERIOUS FUN.™

LOST YOUR PLANE? NOT IF YOU WERE USING HITEC! When you equip your airplane with Hitec's telemetry system, you'll never be in danger of losing your model again. Our HTS-SS Advance Sensor Station and suite of sensors - including the HTS-GPS sensor for invaluable position information - ensures you have your ﬁnger on the pulse of your favorite model throughout its ﬂight. See the forest and the trees with Hitec!

HTS-SS Advance

HTS-GPS

Jeti a ESPRIT s u l e mod

www.ESPRITMODEL.com

(1) 321-729-4287

www.JetiUSA.com

DEPARTMENTS

BUILD

event

leading edge

Hot Products

advertiser index

Mystery airplane

Fuselages Part 3 Learn the tricks of the trade as Jeff builds a Shive Specialties Dallaire Sportster fuselage. By Jeff Troy Balsa Sheeting See how the pros do it when it comes to sheeting balsa over stringers on a Bulldog fuselage. By Rob Caso

WOTR 2012 Get a look at all the activity that happened at the 2012 Warbirds Over the Rockies event. By Jim Riggle

how to

We give you the lowdown on ParkZoneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s S.E.5a WWI park flyer..

Solder We teach you the tools and techniques for making perfect solder joints. By Jerry Smith

pg 62 reviews

Get full-on 3D action when you fly this helicopter. We tell you how and why.

pg 68 6

RC SPORT FLYER â&#x20AC;&#x201D; December 2012

Flame wheel F450 Check out this new quadcopter from DJI. It does absolutely amazing things. By Anthony Richards parkzone s.e.5a See why this little warbird has everything going for it from flight to price. By Gene Cope event DVDs We review these DVDs to show you why you can learn lots from them. By RC-SF Staff Blade Nano Cp X Gain insights into why this little 29-gram helicopter will help you learn to fly 3D. By Wil Byers FlyZone Beaver We put you in the cockpit of this bush plane to show you how much fun it is to fly. By Wil Byers

Test

DJI â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;s Flame Wheel F450 delivers fantastic performance. See how!

Radio ranges Wil tests five 2.4-GHz radio systems to see how they measure up against each other for range. By Wil Byers

december 2012

pg 56

report

RTL Fasteners Anthony examines RTL Fastenersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; kits of fasteners, screws, nuts and bolts. By Anthony Richards

PG 72

DHC-2 Beaver

A Bush Plane Built for You to Fly RC-SF.COM

Editor in Chief: Assistant Editor:

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Contributing Editors: Don Bailey, Rob Caso, Gene Cope, Daniel Holman, Mike Hoffmeister, Richard Kuns, Bob McGowan, Joe Nave, Vincenzo Pedrelli, Steve Rojecki, Gary Ritchie, Mike Shellim, Jerry Smith, Jeff Troy, James VanWinkle RC Sport Flyer (ISSN: 1941-3467) is published monthly for $24.95 per year by Kiona Publishing, Inc., P.O. Box 4250, W. Richland, WA 99353-4004. Periodicals postage paid at Richland, WA and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to RC Sport Flyer, P.O. Box 4250, W. Richland, WA 99353-4004. Office: (509) 967-0831 Hours: M–Th 8-5, Closed Fri, Sat & Sun. Subscriptions: kionasubscribe.com Toll Free (Orders Only) (866) 967-0831 Editor/Ads/Design: (509) 967-0832 E-mail: subscriptions@kionapublishing.com Fax Number: (509) 967-2400 Ask for RC Sport Flyer at your local hobby shop! Hobby Shop Orders (800) 558-1544 ext. 818 www.retailers.kalmbach.com

Hobby Shop distribution by: Kalmbach Publishing Co. (800) 558-1544 ext. 818 Subscriptions: USA and possessions and Canada: $24.95 per year, $54.95 overseas. Washington residents add 8.3% sales tax. Single copies $6.49 plus $3.50 S&H U.S. All payments must be in U.S. funds. Visa, Mastercard, Amex, and Discover accepted. Send to: RC Sport Flyer – Circulation, P.O. Box 4250, W. Richland, WA 99353-4004. Please allow eight weeks for change of address. Contributions: Articles and photographs are welcome, but cannot be considered unless guaranteed exclusive. When requested we will endeavor to return all materials in good condition if accompanied by return postage. RC Sport Flyer assumes no responsibility for loss of or damage to editorial contributions received. Any material accepted is subject to possible revision at the discretion of the publisher. Publisher assumes no responsibility for accuracy of content. Opinions of contributing authors do not necessarily reflect those of the publisher. RC Sport Flyer will retain author’s rights, title to and interest in the editorial contributions as described above in both print and electronic media unless prior arrangement has been made in writing. Payment for editorial materials will be made at our current rate. Submission of editorial material to RC Sport Flyer expresses a warranty by the author that such material is in no way an infringement upon the rights of others. The contents of this magazine may not be reprinted traditionally or electronically without permission of the publisher.

RC SPORT FLYER — December 2012

Chang Liang

web@kionapublishing.com

Office Assistant:

graphics@rc-sf.com

Printed in the USA

PHOENIX ICE2 HV SERIES

Available in 40, 60, 80, 120 and 160 amp capacities. Up to 12S max. Great for extreme plane and heli performance.

WIL BYERS

his month’s cover says volumes about what is happening in the RC world as 2012 winds to a close. Let me start this column with my thoughts on the Flame Wheel F450, which is shown in the upper right corner of the cover. This is an absolutely amazing product. It truly deserves more than we could possibly give it in this review. I’ve never flown anything like it before, and it has me lit up like the proverbial Christmas tree. You might just say I’m on fire for this thing. Anthony Richards reviews it in our pages, but I’ve had the opportunity now to put some time on it. I can’t believe what this little machine is capable of in flight. In the air, you can make it take off like a scared cat. However, flick it into GPS home mode and it will sit there in the air rock steady. Heck, you can put the transmitter down and walk away. It will just sit there hovering. You can even give it a push, and it will come right back. Flip the switch into intelligent orientation control and it knows what direction is what no matter which way the body is pointing. We even programmed ours to go to a stationary position about 100 ft in the air. The F450 just sits there, even in a wind that was blowing about eight miles an hour. I could not believe what I was seeing. And the machine is quite affordable too. You must see it for yourself. Next Anthony and I put some air time on the FlyZone® Beaver. What a great park flyer. I was delighted with how this airplane flies. When I pushed the throttle up it just went for the sky, climbing out like a full-scale Beaver does. The flaps and thick airfoil give it STOL-like performance that seemed to be stall resistant. It is a ton of fun to dive it out of the sky with the throttle pulled back and the flaps deployed. You can just point it at the numbers and roll it out into a nice flair before touchdown. Flying the Beaver just put a big ol’ smile on my face. I think you’ll enjoy Anthony’s report, which will leave you wanting this bush plane park flyer. I reviewed the Blade® Nano CP X, even though I’m not a 3D helicopter pilot. The reason was, I wanted to see how this little 29-gram helicopter would advantage me as an RC pilot. What I found was that this AS3X-equipped helicopter is perfect for anyone who wants to hone their helicopter piloting skills. I was also pleased by how durable the little bird is, which is important to any pilot that is transitioning to a 3D machine because you are going to make mistakes. At just a little over one ounce in weight, this heli just doesn’t have a ton of inertia when it impacts something either, inertia that would otherwise break parts. Oh yeah, and it is affordable too, which is a good thing, right? Warbird enthusiasts, you’re going to enjoy seeing what happened at the 2012 Warbirds Over the Rockies event in Jim Riggle’s report. I don’t know about you, but I absolutely love watching and flying warbirds—when I get the chance. Jim’s report gives you an up-close and personal look at some of the warbirds that were shown and flown at this year’s event. I hope his report will inspire you to build and fly a warbird for the 2013 flying season. By the way, there are some excellent warbird ARFs available through distributors now. They’ll get you into the warbird scene without spending much money or much time building them either. Even so, they are great-looking and good-flying airplanes. So, do some shopping. I think you’ll find an airplane that will fit your warbird hangar. Finally, we are very pleased to be bringing you our exclusive 2.4-GHz radio range test report. It pretty much puts to rest the notion that 2.4-GHz systems don’t have the range of the old 72-MHz systems. Moreover, there were some pretty interesting results for these systems. I know our results give me much more confidence to fly my large-scale airplanes and gliders at distances that might otherwise be disconcerting. Give this test report a read to see how your brand of radio did in our tests. Trade Show Season Every year now for the last decade or so I’ve reminded you that trade show season is about to start. It will start again this year with the Academy of Model Aeronautics’ Ontario, California show, which is held over the weekend of January 11, 12 and 13. For those RCers on the West Coast this is a good show and one that you should not miss. You’ll see most of the major manufacturers in attendance. Furthermore, you can often find some great buys on your favorite airplanes and hardware. I truly hope you attend. If so, I will welcome you at our booth. See you there!

APC Competition propellers for the intermediate and

advanced sport ﬂyer as well as the competition community. Over 400 pitch/diameters available ranging from slow-ﬂyer electric to High performance Giant Scale Racers.

Visit the APC Prop Website for product selection and detailed information on product design and features.

LANDING PRODUCTS All propellers are in stock and overnight delivery is available. Proudly made in the USA

RC SPORT FLYER — December 2012

1222 Harter Ave., Woodland, CA 95776 (530) 661-0399 est. 1989 by Mr. Fred Burgdorf

Thunderbolt

SPECIFICATIONS

E-flite® Edge 540QQ 280 BNF Basic

> Ready to bind to your DSM2®/DSMX® transmitter > Incredible power-to-weight ratio > High-speed digital servos and Spektrum™ Nanolite receiver installed > Factory hinged with 3D rate, double-bevel control surfaces > Magnetic battery hatch provides instant access > Robust landing gear and steerable tail wheel > Choose your favorite 450mAh 3S Li-Po battery and charger

Requires a full-range 4+ channel DSM2/DSMX aircraft transmitter with adjustable D/R and expo, 450mAh 3S 11.1V 30C Li-Po battery pack and charger, all sold separately.

26.0 in (660mm)

15.6 in (615mm)

The E-flite® Edge 540QQ 280 BNF Basic, designed by aerobatic world champion Quique Somenzini, has been specifically built to provide exceptional precision and 3D aerobatic performance so that you can fly from a convenient location such as a park or small field. From its carbon fiber reinforced hollow-foam construction and super sub-micro, high-speed digital servos to the accuracy of Spektrum™ radio technology, the result is a 3D thoroughbred with the rich character of a scale aerobat. But what really motivates this park flyer and gives it a unique 3D edge is the power behind its custom-built Q-Power system. Its specially tuned and propped 280 BL, 1800Kv brushless outrunner motor provides unbridled power for both vigorous 3D agility and exciting high-speed flight so that you can perform any maneuver with an exhilarating punch.

EFL6250

162 sq in (10.4 sq dm) 8.10 oz (230 g)

VISIT

CLICK

CALL

Your Local Retailer

horizonhobby.com

1.800.338.4639

SERIOUS FUN.™

© 2012 Horizon Hobby, Inc. E-flite, Bind-N-Fly, DSM2, DSMX, Serious Fun and the Horizon Hobby logo are trademarks or registered trademarks of Horizon Hobby, Inc. The Spektrum trademark is used with permission of Bachmann Industries, Inc. 37767

Light years ahead.

In features, functions, variety and most of all, innovation. See the light on realflight.com

• TrueView™ Lighting for the most realistic looks of any R/C simulator • Free, frequent software updates • The InterLink Elite Controller — use it as a controller, an interface for your transmitter — or as both at once. • Videos, training tools and the Virtual Flight Instructor for tutoring by the pros • Multiplayer modes for the Internet, LAN and your PC. • The most popular aircraft in R/C, from Great Planes, s, Thunder Tiger, Top Flite and Tower Hobbies, Hobbico and Heli-Max, Flyzone and Synergy, Miniature Aircraft and more. • Access to more free aircraft and flying sites via thee RealFlight swap pages.

FREE upgrade from RealFlight 6 to 6.5!

realfight.com/116a

See the light.

Atlanta Hobby Naza H Auto Pilot System

Atlanta Hobby 6110 Parkway North Dr Cumming, GA 30040 Phone: 678-513-4450 atlantahobby.com

• All-in-one design • Built-in Tail Gyro/Flybarless Supported • Support for multiple electric helicopter platforms • Advanced attitude and control algorithm • Optional GPS module • Multiple flight control modes/intelligent

switching • D-BUS supported • Independent LED module • Future firmware upgrade to give semi-auto take-off and landing • Additional features in the future Price: $269

he new and revolutionary Naza H Auto Pilot system is a platform designed for beginner and expert single rotor helicopter model enthusiasts. It inherits the worldfamous multi-rotor Naza series’ all-in-one design with specially tuned functions for the single-rotor heli pilot. Standard high performance functions include tail gyro, flybarless and multiple flight control modes. The new Naza H also supports D-BUS, and with the optional GPS module, flight stability and fail-safe functions are no longer a problem. This new flight control system goes beyond simple gyros and makes helicopter flying easy and stress free for the masses. Imagine being able to fly a helicopter on your first trip out to the field or if while practicing a new maneuver you get disorientated being able to flip a switch and have the helicopter right itself and return to the takeoff point all on its own. From novice to aggressive 3D, the Naza H perfectly meets the needs of different flying styles. It is not just another FBL controller; it is the best choice for the discerning model helicopter pilot.

Specifications O.S. 21XZM Inboard Marine Engine

Great Planes P.O. Box 9021 Champaign, IL 61821 Phone: 800-637-7660 greatplanes.com

he O.S. 21XZ-M Speed Inboard Marine Engine has the power to make any boat a bona fide competitor on the water. It’s the first speed-tuned marine engine in O.S. history, and it’s designed with many of the same features found in the popular O.S. 21XZ-R engine for 1/8-scale on-road racing. The O.S. 21XZ-M will be available late December. • A 21D big-bore carb allows the use of high-nitro fuels • The crankshaft features DLC (Diamond-Like Coating), tungsten

RC SPORT FLYER — December 2012

Displacement

0.213 in.3 (3.49 cc)

Bore

0.641 in. (16.27 mm)

Stroke

0.661 in (16.8 mm)

Practical RPM

4000–45,000

Output

2.76 hp @ 33,000 rpm

Weight

10.85 oz (307.5 g)

Price

$449.99 (OSMG1622)

weights to minimize vibration and silicone inserts to smooth fuel/air flow • The water-cooled head is laser engraved with a special logo • The crankcase features a black-anodized coating for added cooling • Kit includes RP7 plug, exhaust seal ring, dust cap and head gasket sets

HOT PRODUCTS

Atlanta Hobby RTF Phantom Quadcopter

Atlanta Hobby 6110 Parkway North Dr Cumming, GA 30040 Phone: 678-513-4450 atlantahobby.com

ith its attractive, sleek appearance and ease of flight, the new Phantom is truly the spirit of pure flight. The ready-to-fly quad-copter includes a highly integrated design including the proven Naza auto pilot flight control system and built-in GPS satellite module to make first-time or advanced flight easy. The system includes an integrated GoPro Camera mount for aerial filming and built-in colored lights to aid in orientation. Everything in the Phantom is pre installed, so no more guessing on the best motor, ESC or battery requirements. Even the flight parameters and functions have been set up and tuned by factory engineers prior to delivery, so you can fly the moment you receive it. Just charge the supplied LiPo and go and fly. The Atlanta Hobby skunk works flight team has been testing this product extensively, and we cannot put it down even flying around inside our shop! It flies great, looks great and comes with everything you need to get it into the air, including its own dedicated 2.4-Ghz transmitter, LiPo battery and charger. The Phantom’s compact design makes it easy for you to carry it in a backpack or small case. • Fitted with the proven Naza Autopilot Controller • Naza GPS and Compass Module

Toni’s Covering Iron Sock

• Power monitoring unit with two-level voltage protection • Accurate position and altitude hold (built-in GPS and barometric sensors) • Intelligent motor arming for safety • Multiple flight modes—Manual, Atti and GPS Atti • Intelligent Orientation Control enabled via three-way switch. Course Lock and Home Lock (IOC) • Enhanced fail-safe protection with go home and auto landing • Included GoPro camera mount with quick release screw mounting • High-intensity LED lighting automatically

comes on when motors are armed • LED Module displays flight mode and LiPo status • Frame size of the DJI Phantom is approximately 330 mm • Stable flight characteristics but with agile performance Price: $679

Toni Smith 2416 Carina Terrace Acworth, GA 30101 Phone: 770-917-4928 E-mail: antoneittasmith@ gmail.com

reat your covering iron and covering to tender loving care with Toni’s Covering Iron Sock. The sock is made with double-layer T-shirt material and supports a large cord drawstring, making it easy to tie on your iron. Simply lay your iron in the middle of the sock, pull the draw strings over the handle and tie a bow. You are ready to cover. You will have to increase the temperature of the iron you normally use because of the sock. Price: $5 (postage included) RC-SF.COM

Ares Ethos QX 75 Nano-Micro RTF Quadcopter

Firelands Group, LLC Phone: 402-434-5385 ares-rc.com

he Ares™ [air-eez] Ethos QX 75 may be small in size, but it’s big on performance and capability for both first-time and experienced quad-copter pilots. The advanced three-axis gyro control system offers precise control and maximum stability while the nano-micro size allows for easy flying in smaller indoor spaces and fully proportional four-channel control offers plenty of maneuverability for flying outdoors in light wind conditions too. The innovative “Automatic Flip Mode” allows almost anyone to perform 360-degree flips with just the push of a button on the transmitter. The unique body design offers improved visibility to help maintain orientation. An advanced design and composite materials result in low weight and incredible durability, plus the airframe is factory assembled and ready to fly right out of the box. Also in the box are AA batteries for the ergonomic four-channel transmitter equipped with 2.4-GHz technology, an LCD screen, dual

RC SPORT FLYER — December 2012

rates and a built-in USB port, a class-leading 300-mAh 1S 3.7-V LiPo battery and a dual port DC USB charger for charging from almost any computer or USB power source. That means there’s nothing extra to buy and you can be ready to fly within minutes of opening the box. • Nano-micro size and low weight for incredible durability plus easy flying in smaller indoor and outdoor spaces • Fully proportional four-channel control for excellent maneuverability indoors and outdoors in light wind conditions • Unique body design offers improved visibility to help maintain orientation and is available in two attractive trim schemes • Advanced three-axis gyro control system • Innovative “Automatic Flip Mode”

Specifications Length

5.5 in. (140 mm) w/ rotor blades; 3.7 in. (95 mm) w/o

Height

1.7 in. (44 mm)

Main rotor diameter

2.2 in. (56 mm)

Weight w/ battery

1.3 oz (37 g)

Motor

Micro coreless (4 installed)

Battery

300-mAh 1S 3.7-V LiPo DC USB

Transmitter

4-channel 2.4 GHz

Price

$79.99

Stock #

AZSH1200R—red AZSH1200Y—yellow

HOT PRODUCTS

Ares Tiger Moth 75 Biplane

Firelands Group, LLC Phone: 402-434-5385 ares-rc.com

he Ares™ [air-eez] Tiger Moth 75 is a semi-scale model of de Havilland’s classic biplane design that became the RAF’s primary trainer of choice in the 1930s and ‘40s. The Tiger Moth’s docile handling, forgiving flight characteristics and full aerobatic capability made it an ideal choice for training the future pilots of fighters including the Spitfire and Hurricane through WWII and beyond. Weighing in at only 14 g (0.5 oz) ready to fly, the Tiger Moth 75 is a great choice when looking for a lightweight airplane to fly in more places than ever before. The nano-micro size and low weight allow for slow and easy flying in smaller indoor spaces from a great room at home to a conference room at the

office, and fully proportional three-channel throttle, rudder and elevator controls offer plenty of maneuverability for flying outdoors in calm to light wind conditions. The variety of scale finishes includes an authentic trim scheme, molded wing rib details and pilots, and lightweight yet durable construction means you don’t always have to worry about damage after less-than-perfect training missions or landings. The Tiger Moth 75’s unique airframe design assembles with magnets and interlocking parts for easy maintenance and repairs without glue, plus it arrives 100-percent factory assembled and ready to fly right out of the box. The Tiger Moth 75 is available in RTF (Ready-To-Fly) and WOT (Without Transmitter) versions that include a factory-installed receiver, battery and onboard electronics. The WOT version also includes a DC USB charger and is ready to bind/link to compatible Ares 2.4-GHz transmitters.

Specifications Wingspan

11.4 in. (290 mm)

Length

10.8 in. (275 mm)

Weight w/ battery

0.5 oz (14 g)

Battery

50-mAh 1S 3.7-V LiPo DC USB

Transmitter

3-channel 2.4 GHz (required for WOT)

ESC/Servo

3-in-1 receiver/ESC/servo

Price

$79.99 (RTF) $64.99 (WOT)

Stock #

AZS1300—Tiger Moth 75 RTF AZS1301—Tiger Moth 75 WOT

RC-SF.COM

Flyzone Micro S.E.5a RTF and Tx-R

Great Planes P.O. Box 9021 Champaign, IL 61821 Phone: 800-637-7660 greatplanes.com

he British S.E.5a played a vital role at the Western Front during WWI. Easy to fly, stable and forgiving, it was the ideal plane for pilots with limited experience. The Flyzone

S.E.5a is packed with authentic details; you’ll think you’re defending European airspace from your own backyard! No assembly is required, so you’ll be able to fly sorties in no time. Best of all, flight characteristics are stable and predictable, just like the real S.E.5a. The Tx-R version lets you fly this WWI favorite with your favorite transmitter—yours. • Fully assembled to let you fly WWI missions in minutes • Scale details include a pilot figure (requires installation and painting), replica Lewis

Specifications Wingspan

14.3 in. (363 mm)

Length

11.3 in. (287 mm)

Weight

1.3 oz (37 g)

Battery

3.7-V 140-mAh LiPo

Transmitter

Tactic™ TTX402 2.4-GHz radio w/ charger (RTF only)

ESC/Servo

3-in-1 receiver/ESC/servo

Price

$99.99 (RTF) $79.99 (Tx-R)

Stock #

FLZA2050—Micro S.E.5a EP 2.4GHz RTF FLZA2052—Micro S.E.5a EP Tx-R

machine gun, engine exhausts and authentic WWI trim • Factory-installed motor, ESC, servos and electronics • Tx-R™ includes a 2.4GHz SLT™ receiver, cordless DC LiPo charger and five AA batteries. Requires AnyLink™ and compatible three-channel transmitter

Futaba 14SG 14-Channel Radio

Futaba 3002 N Apollo Drive, Suite #1 Champaign, IL 61822 Phone: 217-398-0007 futaba-rc.com

he 14SG is the only 14-channel system with revolutionary 2.4-GHz FASSTest™ technology. It’s compatible with Futaba FASSTest™, FASST™ and S-FHSS™ protocols, so you can use virtually all Futaba 2.4-GHz air receivers. The 14SG can also utilize optional Futaba telemetry sensors to monitor flight data, receive alerts while in flight and more. Three-axis gyro support makes it the perfect system for flybarless flight. The Futaba 14SG 14-Channel 2.4-GHz FASSTest Computer Radio will be available in mid-December. • Transmits and receives telemetry data using Futaba Telemetry Sensors (sold separately) to monitor flight information, receive inflight alerts and more • Comfortable to hold, with rubber grips that

RC SPORT FLYER — December 2012

help minimize flyer fatigue • Twelve proportional channels, two switched channels • Comes with a high-voltage R7008SB receiver • Large 1.75 x 3-in. backlit LCD screen • SensorTouch™ programming, 30-model memory, 10-character user and model naming, SD card compatibility and user-updateable software Price $599.99 Stock # FUTK9410 14SGA 14-Channel 2.4GHz Computer Radio Air Mode 2 FUTK9411 14SGH 14-Channel 2.4GHz Computer Radio Heli Mode 2

HOT PRODUCTS

Icare DFSKranich Scale Glider

Icare/Icarus 890 ch. d’Anjou unit 1 Boucherville, QC J4B-5E4 Canada

This kit is a 1:5 scale reproduction of the original with a 3.6-m wingspan, a perfect size to get into aerotowing. Although the model comes with an all-molded fiberglass fuselage, the wings are built up and covered with a tissue-like covering material reproducing the

cloth and dope covering from the original. The kit includes a fiberglass fuselage, a sidewise-articulated canopy, finished and covered built-up wings and tail feather. Different paint schemes are available, like the typical German or blue Finnish.

CARE is pleased to release this new scale glider. The prototype of the DFS Kranich was designed in the mid ‘30s in Germany and was the first mass-produced glider. At that time it was a high-performance glider with many records.

Specifications Scale

1:5

Wingspan

142 in. (3.6 m)

Wing Area

1442 ft2 (93 dm2)

Wing Loading

13 oz/ft2 (39 g/dm2)

Length

63 in. (1.6 m)

Weight

130 oz (3.7 kg)

Servos

Mini and micro for wings

Price

$729

Icare ASK 13 Scale Glider

Icare/Icarus 890 ch. d’Anjou unit 1 Boucherville, QC J4B-5E4 Canada Phone: 405-449-9094 icare-rc.com

he ASK 13 is a two-seat trainer that you will find in many airfields. Its unique wingplanform makes it easy to recognize. Designed by Rudolf Kaiser, it was built by Schleicher in Poppenhausen. In this model, care has been taken to be as accurate as the original. The root ribs are cut out to let you see the inside of the wing structure. Although it is a 1:5 scale reproduction, the ASK 13 model flies like the original. In conjunction with the Aerodynamic High School of Prague, a specific airfoil called the AP 43-36 has been developed, permitting a sturdy, all-wood construction and giving this airplane great all-around

characteristics. This airplane will do well aerotowing on a flat field or on the slope. The wings can easily be retrofitted with airbrakes. The box to receive the airbrakes is prebuilt, so only gluing in the airbrakes is required. The servo tray will receive the four standard servos for rudder, elevator and tow release. The elevator can optionally be actuated with two servos. Although the model comes with an allmolded fiberglass fuselage, the wings are built up and covered with a tissue-like covering material reproducing the cloth and dope covering from the original. The kit includes a fiberglass fuselage, a sidewise-articulated canopy, finished and covered built-up wings and tail feather.

Specifications Scale

1:5

Wingspan

142 in. (3.6 m)

Wing Area

1442 ft2 (93 dm2)

Wing Loading

13 oz/ft2 (39 g/dm2)

Length

63 in. (1.6 m)

Weight

130 oz (3.7 kg)

Servos

Mini and micro for wings

Price

$567

RC-SF.COM

BY Jim Riggle

Warbirds Over the Rockies 2012 An International Event that Honors Military Aviation

Tom Yamada’s B-USA Army Air Corps 1/3 Stearman Tom said it took “three years building it and some 300 hours, Solartex and Nelson’s.” He made his decals and instrument panel. Only the second airplane he’s built, it has a 1600-cc Evolution seven-cylinder radial, 29 x 10 propeller, Hitech digital servos and EQ 10 power expander, and it flies with a Futaba 2.4 9Z on 7 channels. Two LiFe 2100 flight packs and a 4000-mAh LiPo pack for the ignition complete the package. Tom flew it in formation with three other Stearmans.

Steve Forest’s 141-in. B-29 at 1/12th scale Steve bought the B-29 scratch built from Don Smith plans and already framed. Construction is fiberglass and wood with PPG automotive paint, four OS 91s with Master Air Screw three-blade 14 x 8 propellers, Century Jet landing gear, JR 12X transmitter, 15 analog JR servos and Formco flight batteries. Steve was inspired to finish and fly it because of a chance meeting with Paul Tibbets at a warbird meet years ago.

RC SPORT FLYER — December 2012

Ryan Haldenwagner’s Composite ARF Ultra Flash Blue Angel This 72-in. sport jet is dressed in Blue Angels clothing at 25 lb with a Jet Cat P-180 turbine putting out 40 lb of thrust flown with a Futaba 18MZ Futaba 9157 digital servos, Smart Fly power expander and homemade air oil retract system. Ryan said, “It’s a real eye strainer. In a vertical roll you better be sure you’re counting the rotations because if you come out at the top in the wrong direction it will be out of sight and into the next county before you know it.”

Warbirds Over the Rockies 2012

Shaz Kianpour’s custom Fei Bao giant scale F-15i RA’AM

now realize how sheltered my RC life has been living in Oregon City, Oregon. Around Portland, a huge event might draw 150 people, including the gallery. At the Warbirds over the Rockies (WOTR) 2012 event, I was just one person among 125 pilots, hundreds of airplanes and thousands of spectators all mixed

This airplane is a variant of the F-15E Strike Eagle, an airplane made famous in the Gulf War and modified for ground attack. The full-scale, 112-in. airplane had a thrust ratio greater than 1:1. Flown with a P200SX turbine at 48 lb, it carries 235 oz of kerosene and has a 12-oz Composite Air Trap UAT by GBR. I witnessed the maiden flight of this airplane on Thursday morning. Afterward in the joy of the moment, Shaz said, “In thrust we trust.”

together to honor our veterans.

Where

My plan for attending the WOTR event was to visit my daughter in Jackson, Wyoming, then take a slow drive along the Oregon Trail from Casper, Wyoming to Scotts Bluff, Nebraska and Chimney Rock,

Colorado. From there my wife and I would go down to Sterling, Colorado for the event. The only problem with my plan was that I misread the directions, so when we reached Sterling we found out the field was 80 miles to the west, near Fort Collins. Country boy in the big city, right? But we made it nevertheless.

Evan Quiros’ 1/4-scale FW 109D-13 A full-scale FW 109D-13 is at Paul Allan’s Flying Heritage Collection in Everett, Washington, and Evan built this airplane from Arthur Bentley’s outlines, drawing his own plans. It’s of balsa and ply construction, coming in at 53 lb and 104 in. with an MME 110 twin, scale stainless exhaust system, Sierra custom retracts and fiberglass covering with PPG automotive paint. All markings are hand painted, and the cowl flaps are functional. Evan flew this in addition to his 1/5th FW 190AH, 1/5th FW 190D9, BVM F-86 EDF and 1/5th P-47. His whole fleet was built just as well as the 109D-13. RC-SF.COM

When

This year, WOTR was September 28 through 30 at LoveAir R/C airfield. The weather early in the week was threatening with afternoon thunderstorms, but thankfully it turned out gorgeous for the event. Pilots had a great airfield to stage from with a 75 x 800-ft paved runway for the fast jets and monster WWII fighters and bombers. There was plenty of room in the pit and vendor areas as well as parking for hundreds of cars and RVs. It was a spectacular sight!

Action

This ninth annual event, sponsored by Brian O’Meara, a fourth-generation Ford dealer in Edwardo Esteves’ 100-in. Ziroli plans Stuka Built by Bill Fuori of Ocala, Florida, covered in fiberglass and painted with Klass Kote, this 100-in. airplane flew with a Zenoah G-62 turning a Bali 20 x 12 propeller and had 12 JR servos, flown with a JR transmitter. Mrs. Esteves said it was “her airplane” and Edwards was just the pilot. They traveled to the event from Brazil.

Sponsor Brian O’Meara’s “Foto Fanny” An RF-84 Thunderflash at 1/5 scale with Hartman paint scheme, it includes functional slats and speed breaks, air/oil Skymaster landing gear, AMP 180 40-lb thrust engine and all composite construction.

Frank Kelly’s KMP OV-10 Frank came with “Team Las Vegas.” His OV-10 is modeled after the OV-10 he flew for over 1000 hours in Vietnam. It’s 1/5th scale, has two Evolution 26-cc engines swinging Master Air Screw 18 x 8s and uses 13 digital servos and 12 channels on a Futaba 14MZ transmitter. Frank flew 210 missions as a forward air controller out of Da Nang over the Ho Chi Minh Trail to stop the flow of enemy supplies out of the North. He has modeled since he was a kid and has over 17,200 hours of flight time, with 11,000 in 737s. If you think the scale pilot looks like him, it does. He modified an Aces of Iron pilot to look like himself as a young man.

RC SPORT FLYER — December 2012

Warbirds Over the Rockies 2012

Ryan Haldenwagner’s Mibo A-10 Warthog This beauty flies with two AMP Pegasus turbines putting out 37 lb of thrust each. At approximately 1/6 scale, it has a 120-in. span, uses 14 digital Futaba servos, Mibo retracts and was flown with a Futaba 18MZ transmitter. Built by Joe Grice, it was flown expertly by Ryan. A very impressive airplane in the air!

Northglenn, Colorado, was a huge success with 125 registered pilots, dozens of vendors and over 4000 spectators. Certainly it takes a dedicated club like LoveAir R/C to handle all the details to make the event run smoothly, including the coordinator Mike Harrington and air boss Michael Dirks. Our sponsor, Brian, is a patriot in every sense of the word. He backs the WOTR event to honor veterans by celebrating American military aviation.

Pilots came from all over the U.S. and around the world, including Brazil, Canada and Australia. They bring with them some fantastic airplanes ranging from slow-moving JN-4 Jennies to high-speed F-15 Eagles and most everything in between. The event is built on a foundation of making sure the pilots have a great time. So it stars “A History of Military Aviation” air show each noon with full-scale warbird flyovers and ends

with a first-class banquet Saturday evening featured Tuskegee airman Colonel Charles McGee and dozens of auction prizes. McGee flew in WWII, Korea and Vietnam, totaling more missions than any other American pilot. On Wednesday morning trailer after trailer pulled into the airfield. They were of course filled with warbirds. One trailer contained four jet fuselages in it alone. Circus tents popped up all over in preparation

Sponsor Brian O’Meara’s B-USA 1/3 Stearman

Sponsor Brian O’Meara’s “Flak Bait”

The Stearman features a Moki 215-cc five-cylinder radial, eight Futaba servos and Monocoat covering. It was flown by Futaba’s Frank Noll.

This 144-in., 110-lb and 1/6-scale B-26 is powered by two Zenoah 80-cc twins turning Mejzlik 24 x 10 propellers. It has a Futaba receiver and 15 digital Futaba servos, Royal powerbox and custom retracts. Scratch-built from Jerry Bates plans by Phill Clark in England, it was imported to the U.S. Check out its exquisite patina and functional bomb bays with six bombs. RC-SF.COM

Sponsor Brian O’Meara’s “Sleepy Jean” This 144-in., 125-lb and 1:3.5 scale P-47 was scratch built by Frank Tiano and flown by Futaba’s Frank Noll. It’s powered by a ZDZ 420-cc opposed four-cylinder that puts out 37 hp with a 38 x 18 Xoar propeller. It has a functional sliding canopy and functional bomb bays and flies with Futaba 9157s, two Futaba 6014 receivers, a Futaba 18MZ transmitter, Sierra custom retracts and Devinci Engineering tires and wheels. Covering is fiberglass with Klass Kote applied by Scott Rains.

Heinkel he 111

North American B-25J

Here is another example of the many warbirds that were shown and flown at the WOTR event. I did not get the name of the builder or pilot of this beauty. Sorry!

The detailing on this B-25 was simply outstanding. The attention to detail by the builders/pilots who attended this 2012 event was by any measure amazing.

for the event. We were there to see the warmups as Ryan Haldenwanger and Shaz Kianpour brought out their jets alongside Brian, Frank Noll and Wayne Lane. Brian’s scale warbirds included a B-26 “Flak Bait,” razorback P-47 Thunderbolt “Sleepy Jean,” P-38 Lightning, “Foto Fanny,” Spitfire and an F-100 Super Saber. I can’t tell you how exciting it was to see “Flak 24

RC SPORT FLYER — December 2012

Bait” come out of the back of a Ford van in two crates, then watch it get assembled into a 150-in. wingspan, 80-cc-powered twin-engine monster. Shaz Kianpour was showing his new 1/7-scale, 40-lb F-15E Strike Eagle, which he probably spent more on than I paid for my car. It was the Strike Eagle’s maiden flight that day. Shaz said, “This is the moment of

courage” just before he powered up and lifted the aircraft into the air. Four minutes later he was heard saying, “Now I have no choice but to land it for the first time.” And a smooth landing it was too. Following Shaz was Frank Noll’s initial flight of “Sleepy Jean,” a 125-lb, 144-in. wingspan P-47 Thunderbolt that was scratch built by Frank Tiano.

Warbirds Over the Rockies 2012 There are only three such aircraft, two of which have been flown. Frank cranked the Thunderbolt to full power down a few feet of the runway and up into a vertical roll. At first, with all the jet action, I got the feeling we were at Florida Jets. The next day, all of the highly detailed WWII fighters and bombers had me thinking we were at the Scale Masters instead. And watching the volume of high-quality airplanes and pilots, I thought maybe we were even at Top Gun. On Friday afternoon I sat in front of 150 high-quality warbirds ranging from a 1/4-scale SE-5 to a 141-in. wingspan B-29 Stratofortress and a 1/4-scale A-10 Warthog. A dozen P-47s and a handful of Corsairs and P-5s were also nearby. On top of that, I was next to 92-year-old Col. McGee, who had a huge grin on his face, and three 7-year-olds bubbling with excitement just like me. Three helpers carried a 150-in. B-USA Sopwith Camel off the runway after a nose-over scale landing, for which the pilot received applause. The Friday noon show featured a flyover of a full-scale P-51 Mustang, T-28 Trojan, T-33 Shooting Star and T-6 Texan. Next came RC WWI and interwar warbirds. Steve Forest demonstrated his 144-in. B-29 “Enola Gay” and dropped the A bomb to end the war, accompanied by a masterful narration by Sam Right.

Fokker DR1 & Sopwith PuP Take a look at this fly-by pass that was done for the crowd. In my opinion this is what a warbird event is all about—great flybys and great airplanes.

The most exciting flight of the weekend came during the Saturday noon show with Frank Noll at the controls of Sleepy Jean. He was doing an excellent job of flying the airplane and made a low, fast pass down the runway and turned back toward “center stage” to do a Cuban 8. On the low pass the engine missed ever so slightly as it went by. Frank got

Jean to the top of the Cuban 8 and at about 150 ft, and then the engine quit. The Cuban 8 turned into a stall turn, which he came out of at about 50 ft. Then came the question every pilot has to answer sooner or later: do you try to make the runway and risk a stall and subsequent crash, or “land out” and mess up the belly of your airplane? Frank wisely landed out in a stubble field 5–10 ft lower than the runway, and you could see him on his tiptoes as he guided Jean gently down. The landing scratched the belly pan. It’s hard to know whether the excitement of the event was driven more by the jets or monster WWII fighters and bombers. Of course, it could also have been the dynamic combination of pilots, airplanes and thousands of spectators. You can decide for yourself when you make your own trip to this remarkable event. WOTR has the best warbirds I’ve ever seen. Curtiss P-40 Dressed up in a faux Flying Tigers paint scheme, this P-40 was inspiring to watch. You could not help but think about the pilots who sacrificed their lives for freedom. RC-SF.COM

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KING CUB

Measuring 106 inches, wingtip to wingtip, this magnificent Hangar 9 recreation of the venerable Piper Super Cub commands attention wherever it flies. Almost every line and curve mirrors the real thing, right down to the shape of the fillet on the vertical stab. Its impressive list of scale details includes things like functional bungee-type landing gear, a realistic instrument panel and even a full-body pilot figure.

NEW ¼-Scale PA-18-150 Super Cub ARF

The same attention to detail is evident in the flight performance. Like the full-scale version, this model has working flaps that give it amazing short-field takeoff and landing abilities. You’ll enjoy the forgiving, slow speed characteristics Cubs are famous for too. But don’t let its mild side fool you. It will eagerly perform sport aerobatics using any of the recommended power choices.

SPECIFICATIONS | HAN4540

106 in (269 cm) 68.0 in (173 cm) 1630 sq in (150 sq dm) 16.5–18.5 lb (7.50–8.40 kg) 20–26cc 2-stroke gas 1.20–1.60 2-stroke glow 1.20–1.80 4-stroke glow Electric Motor Power 110 Transmitter 5+ channel Servos 8 servos (7 if electric power) Wingspan Length Wing Area Weight Engine

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This is a one-of-a-kind, Giant-Scale experience no Cub fan should miss. Go to Hangar-9.com right now to learn more.

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By Jeff Troy

Fuselages: Part 3 Shive Specialties Dallaire Sportster

2 I prepared for my Dallaire Sportster fuselage build by taping down the plans, covering them with a protective barrier and pulling all the necessary parts from the Shive Specialties kit box.

’ve had plenty of fun constructing the fuselage for my Great Planes Super Sportster 60. It’s a very basic model, but there’s much to be said for basic building techniques that complement that kind of a build. In severe contrast to the slab-sided Sportster 60 aerobat, I’ve moved on to another Sportster design—the stick-built, 108-in. Dallaire Sportster old-timer from Shive Specialties, sold exclusively through Penn Valley Hobby Center in Lansdale, Pennsylvania (pennvalleyhobbycenter.com). Not much in the way of tools is needed to construct an open-frame, stick-built fuselage. Your best bet for cutting spruce or balsa sticks to their approximate lengths is a fine-tooth razor saw. High-quality razor saws in different grades—the higher the tooth count, the finer the cut—are available from Excel Hobby Blades, Pro Edge, Revell (Hobbico) and Zona Tool Company. The “Zona Saw” that I use most often has a turned, wooden handle with a permanently mounted blade. Most other saws, including several alternate versions from Zona, have different handle styles with 28

RC SPORT FLYER — December 2012

The Dallaire has a “stick-built” fuselage, which means that dozens of 3/16-in. square spruce and balsa sticks must be cut to length to form the sides, uprights and crossmembers. I always make my cuts over a piece of hardwood scrap to prevent ripping my plans or marring my workbench’s surface.

interchangeable, replaceable blades. In addition to a good razor saw, stick construction can benefit from a 36-in. or 48-in. metal straightedge, a good supply of medium Du-Bro T-Pins, an 11-in. Great Planes EasyTouch Bar Sander or Applied Design Corporation (ADC) Tee-Bar with 80- or 100-grit adhesive-backed sandpaper and thin and gap-filling CA adhesive or a good-quality aliphaticresin glue like Elmer’s or TiteBond. You’ll also need something to protect your plans and prevent the structure from sticking to the paper. I’ve found the best choices to be parchment paper or waxed paper from any grocery store, and Great Planes Plan Protector, sold in a 25-ft roll for $8.99. Any one of these is a fine choice when you’re building with aliphatic resins or other common wood glues. When I work with CA, however, I find that the adhesive often sticks to the wax on the waxed paper and must be sanded off. Plan Protector is much better, although my barrier of choice when using CA adhesives is parchment paper. Parchment paper is far more

costly, so as always, you must make your own decision as to cost versus convenience. The Dallaire Sportster fuselage is constructed from spruce and balsa sticks. Spruce is used for the longerons, forward uprights and crossmembers. Balsa uprights and crossmembers are used aft of the cabin. Three parts bags and two die-cut sheets contain all the bits and pieces for the fuselage that are not cut from spruce or balsa by the builder. The bags hold the cabin braces, #2 and #3 bulkhead parts, all the hardwood and balsa engine mount parts and the pieces needed to match the cabin top to the curvature of the Dallaire’s undercamber wing. The formers for the lower fuselage are in the die-cut sheets. The basic fuselage frame is built right over the side view on the plans. Cover the plans with a protective barrier, taping down the corners of the plans and the barrier material with masking tape. Gather your razor saw, sanding bar and choice of adhesives, and be sure to have an

Fuselages: Part 3

4 The Dallaire’s spruce longerons and bottom stringer must be spliced to attain the necessary length. Don’t cut each part individually. Hold each pair tightly together and cut them as one for a near-to-identical mating angle.

Apply a coat of gap-filling CA and join the two lengths of spruce next to a metal straightedge to ensure a dead-straight line. Hold the sticks together until the adhesive cures.

6 Penetrate the seam with a dusting of baking soda, then apply a drop of thin CA to fuse the soda and ensure a positive bond. Repeat the baking-soda process on all four sides of the splice, then sand any rough spots flat with 80- or 100-grit sandpaper on an aluminum bar sander.

adequate supply of T-pins within easy reach. If you build over a solid-core door like I do, you’ll surely benefit from having a small tack-hammer to help you drive the pins into the hard wood. The Dallaire fuselage has four spruce longerons that run from ahead of the firewall to the tail post. Fortyeight-inch sticks are provided in the kit, but they will require splicing to attain the additional length required. The plans instruct you to place the splices in the area of the cabin’s inner plywood sheeting. This is the best location for the splices because the plywood sheeting offers additional surface area to reinforce them.

Pin down the upper fuselage longeron over the plans, again using a straightedge to guarantee a dead-straight run. Never pin through longerons or spars. Use “cross-pinning” (see text) to lock them down hole-free. Cut and install the uprights and the lower longeron. You want your model to have two identical sides, so cutting and sanding two of each upright now is a lot easier than trying to match the second set to the already completed first side.

When you cut or saw materials for your model, try to avoid doing it directly over your plans or workbench. You’ll get the parts cut okay, but you’ll also end up ripping the plans or damaging the bench’s wooden work surface. Always cut or saw over a block of scrap hardwood. For typical balsa cutting with a hobby knife, you just can’t beat working over one of the different sizes of heavy-vinyl cutting mats by Hobbico or Excel Hobby Blades. It can be difficult to match the angle on a splice joint if you cut the sticks independently. I find that an easier method is to hold the two lengths of wood next to or on top

of each other when you make the saw cut. This will net you two pieces of wood with a close-to-identical angle on the joining surfaces. Get those four longerons spliced, and while you’re at it, splice a fifth piece from spruce to be used as the center stringer on the fuselage belly. I pressed the spruce sticks against a 48-in. Hobbico straightedge to ensure a perfectly straight run, then used BSI Super Gold + gap-filling CA to join the spruce sticks at the splices. When the joint was cured, I rubbed a little baking soda into the seam, then applied a few drops of thin BSI CA to finish the joining process. Complete each of the four longerons and the RC-SF.COM

8 Construct the cabin area by pinning down the top rail, then cutting and fitting the uprights to fit. Again, make two of each upright to ensure identical side frames.

bottom stringer by using a bar sander to smooth and flatten the seam on all four sides. Not too much talent is required to construct the fuselage side frames. Pin down the upper longeron over the plans and position the metal straightedge next to it to ensure that the longeron runs straight. Never drive pins through longerons or spars—the wood can be weakened by the pinholes. Instead, drive pins over the longerons and into the work surface in an “X” pattern, trapping the longeron underneath. The spruce uprights ahead of the tail section are added next, and that calls for another pair of helpful hints. First, teach yourself to accept that

Diagonals aren’t so tough. Sand the angles into one end of the stick, then cut the opposite side slightly oversize. Hold the part close to the framework as you rough-sand the cut end, then sand and dry-fit the end until it mates perfectly with the structure.

sandpaper is an extremely valuable tool when it comes to making a precisely fitting part, perhaps even more so than a saw or hobby knife. Don’t cut or saw the uprights to their exact length. Instead, cut each upright roughly 1/8-in. oversize, then sand the excess away for a perfect fit. Use my many-times-previously described “edge-of-the-bench” sanding technique to sand the correct angle into the side view of the uprights and to ensure that the sanded ends are all at 90 degrees to the workbench. The second hint is pure-and-simple logic. Don’t cut the uprights for just the side you’re working on. Instead, cut and sand two identical parts for each upright. You’ll

soon see that having identical doubles for each upright ensures that both fuselage side frames will be built to the same dimensions. I used BSI Super Gold + to construct my Dallaire’s fuselage frames, although aliphatic-resin glue is also a good choice for strong joints, especially if you “pre-glue.” Pre-gluing is accomplished by applying a thin coat of aliphatic-resin adhesive to the joining area of each part, then wiping it into the wood with a paper towel—or a fingertip for us oldschool guys—and allowing it dry for 10 or 15 minutes. Apply a second coat of glue, then join the parts and pin or tape them down over the plans.

10 Cut, fit and install the rear uprights and diagonals, but be careful. You’ve been working with spruce in the front section, but the rear pieces are cut from balsa and will sand down much more quickly. Always cut the long sticks first. That way, if you cut too short or sand too heavily, you can still use the stick for a shorter piece.

RC SPORT FLYER — December 2012

Position the sander at a 45-degree angle to the framework and sand it flat and smooth on both sides. Use light-to-moderate pressure on the sander to prevent damaging the structure you’re sanding. It’s easier to be careful than it is to hack and repair.

Fuselages: Part 3

12 Remove the protective barrier, tape the side frame down over the plans and cover the frame with a fresh sheet of barrier. The second side is built directly over the first, using th same techniques and all those identical uprights you cut previously.

Install the spruce uprights and balsa uprights against the upper longeron, then add the lower longeron, paying attention to the placement of the splice joint. The lower longeron bows, so try to imagine the direction that the wood would take if the splice joint should break apart. Position the longeron so that the overlap of the splice traps the section underneath, preventing it from popping outward if the glue joint should let go. This is good technique, but is also wasted energy to some degree. Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s because the joint will hold if you cut, fitted and glued it properly, and because the plywood, inner-cabin sides you install later will further

Tape the two side frames together and sand the perimeters to a perfect match all around. Tape the sides at the uprights or diagonals, but not at the longerons or anywhere else that would interfere with your sanding strokes.

strengthen the splices. Continue constructing the side frames by adding the diagonals. These are the angled spruce sticks between each upright, in and ahead of the cabin area. Again, cut each stick slightly oversize and use the edge-of-the-bench technique to sand a perfect fit into each part. Dry-fit each piece, trimming with the sander as necessary before applying the adhesive and pinning it down. Now, do the same for the balsa diagonals rearward of the cabin area. The cabin section is built from spruce sticks. I cut and sanded the top stick to length, then pinned it over the plans using a straightedge against the part to ensure accuracy

along its length. The cabin uprights went in next, followed by the three diagonals in the window area. That completes the construction of one side. When your adhesive of choice has completely dried or cured, remove the pins, straightedge(s) and any other building aids, and break the side frame free of the plans. Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll have little trouble doing this if you used parchment paper, although you might have to work a bit harder with the alternative choices. Carefully inspect each joint to ensure its integrity. Remove the protective barrier from the plans, lay the side frame down and sand it flat with 80- or 100-grit sandpaper on the bar sander.

14 Cut the spruce and balsa crossmember that will fit between the fuselage sides. Once more, cut and sand the angles into two of each piece so that the spread between the sides will be identical on the top and bottom.

Plywood doublers are fitted to the inside of each fuselage side frame from the rear of the cabin area to the nose. Align the tops of the sheets at the upper longerons, and attach them to the framework with gap-filling CA. Apply thin CA along each seam to ensure a positive bond, then trim the bottom edges of the sheets to match the curvature of the lower longerons. RC-SF.COM

Always hold the sander at 45 degrees to the woodwork to prevent digging into the parts or catching a part and breaking it. The trick here is gentle pressure and a greater number strokes, instead of fewer strokes and frame-smashing pressure. When the frame is sanded smooth, flip it over and sand the opposite side. Place the side frame back over the plans, this time without a protective barrier. Use lengths of clear, thin, cellophane tape in four or five places to ensure that the frame doesn’t shift around. Lay a fresh sheet of barrier over the side frame and tape it down. You are now going to construct the second side frame directly over the first, using all the same techniques—

and all those identical upright pieces that you cut and sanded when you were building the first side frame. When the second frame is dried or cured, remove the pins, lift the frame and sand its inner and outer surfaces, just the way you did for the first frame. Now tape the two sides together. You’re going to sand the perimeters of the frames to get a perfect match, so apply the tape at three or four points on the uprights, not on the longerons or tail posts where they would interfere with the sanding process. With the sides sanded to match, glue the 1/16-in. plywood sheeting to the side frames in the inner cabin area. Be sure that the sheets are

installed right and left, facing each other; you positively don’t want to end up with two right or two left side frames. I aligned the frame and the plywood at the upper edge to ensure that no sanding would be needed inside the cabin. I ran a bead of BSI gap-filling CA along the upper side longeron from the rear of the cabin to the forward tip of the stick. Then I positioned the plywood sheet flush with the edge, holding it in its proper position until the CA cured. Then, it was easy to lift the plywood slightly above the frame while I applied adhesive along the other wooden parts that would contact the sheeting. Press it down, let it cure and it’s secure. For added insurance,

16 Cross-pin the fuselage frames upside down over the plans. Install the spruce crossmembers in the cabin area. Prevent twists in the fuselage by using triangles or squares to ensure that the sides are at 90-degree angles to the workbench during construction.

Draw the sides together at the tail and temporarily tape the tail posts together. Add the upper and lower balsa crossmembers at each station, where each one is marked by an “X” on the plans.

18 Add the four machine-cut, balsa parts to match the curvature of the wing’s undercamber, then install the four machine-cut upper braces between the cabin sides.

RC SPORT FLYER — December 2012

Two 1/2-in. square balsa sticks are cut, sanded and fitted to run between the rear of the cabin and the forward edge of the stabilizer saddle. Install the sticks with gap-filling CA, then add the 3/16-in. balsa uprights and crossmembers.

Fuselages: Part 3

20 The kit includes an 1/8-in. piece of balsa to cap the rear edge of the cabin area. I preferred something with a bit more meat to help ward off damage if the wing should shift in a hard landing, so I used a leftover piece of 1/2-in. square balsa from the upper fuselage sticks.

Construct the engine mount from the two maple rails and five balsa pieces in the parts bag. These pieces are machine cut to fit together correctly. Check the fit of your selected powerplant between the rails, trimming or shimming the balsa piece in the center to set the rails at the correct distance from each other. I chose a vintage Fox Falcon .60 two-stroke, and no trimming was needed.

22 I’m always looking for something I can use to mix epoxy. “Popsicle” mixing sticks are fine for large amounts of epoxy but too clumsy for smaller tasks. I buy 1/8 x 36-in. wooden dowels and cut them into 2-, 3- or 4-in. lengths.

you can wick thin CA along each spruce-to-plywood joint. The crossmembers are the parts that hold the two side frames together at the correct width along their length. Measuring directly over the plans, cut and sand two spruce or balsa sticks for each crossmember, one for the top and the other for the bottom. Remember that there is a 1/16-in. plywood sheet on each side in the cabin area, so the cabin sticks will each have to be 1/8-in. shorter to prevent bulging the sides. Because the bottoms of the side frames are curved, the Dallaire’s fuselage is built upside down with the top cabin rails pinned to the bench.

Use slow-setting epoxy to join the engine mount parts. Tape or clamp the parts tightly together until the epoxy is thoroughly cured. If there is any mismatch between the lengths of the maple rails and the side parts, keep the overhang at the rear of the assembly.

Use the X-method to cross-pin the rails over the plans. Install the sticks in top-and-bottom pairs in the cabin area, using triangles or squares to ensure that the side frames are at true 90-degree angles to the work surface. Allow the CA or resin glue to cure or dry, then pull the tail posts together and hold them with tape. One by one, top and bottom at each point, install the balsa crossmembers in the rear of the fuselage. Remove the pins, lift the fuselage free and clean all the debris from the workbench. Four machine-cut balsa pieces are provided to help match the top of the cabin to the curvature of

the wing’s undercambered airfoil. Glue these over the top rails in their proper positions. There are no crossmembers in the cabin top. Instead, you will install the four machine-cut cabin braces from the parts bags. These braces have the “V” for the wing’s dihedral already cut, so you just have to flush the tops of the braces with the tops of the cabin sides and glue them in. The rear section of the fuselage top is formed by a pair of 1/2-in. square balsa sticks. Glue a 1/2-in. wide scrap of 1/8-in.-thick balsa over the upper longeron ahead of the stabilizer area. Trim one end of the 1/2-in. sticks to match the angle of RC-SF.COM

24 Use a bar sander with 80- or 100-grit sandpaper to smooth the assembled engine mount on the top and bottom. I know it’s tempting, but do not drill the mounting holes for the engine yet.

The 1/4-in. plywood landing gear plates must be drilled to accommodate the Du-Bro nylon landing gear straps that come with the Shive Specialties Dallaire Sportster kit, but if you place the plywood over the template, you can’t see the locating marks. Resolve this issue by drawing extended lines to show you where the holes should be drilled.

26 Lay the landing gear plate over the template, and use the extended lines to mark each intersection. Those junctions indicate where you will drill the 1/16-in. pilot holes for the screws that hold the nylon straps.

the rear cabin uprights, resting the opposite ends on top of the 1/8-in. scrap ahead of the stabilizer. When they fits neatly with no gaps, secure the sticks with thin or gap-filling CA. Fill in the small area at the rear between the two sticks with another scrap of 1/8-in. balsa, and add 3/16-in. balsa uprights between the uppers longerons and the 1/2-in. sticks. I was tempted to install a fourstroke engine in my Dallaire. They sound beautiful to my ears, and I will admit to having said, “All twostroke engines are defective—right out of the box, they are all missing 34

RC SPORT FLYER — December 2012

Take your pick of epoxy types to install the engine mount. Slowsetting is always strongest, but there will be enough going on around the mount to prevent it from breaking free if you prefer the fiveminute variety. The angle of the mount is set by the upper halves of the #2 and #3 plywood bulkheads, which should be installed before the engine mount. Clamp the fuselage sides at the nose using scrap spruce or plywood between the sides and the jaws of the clamps to prevent marring or warping the side frames.

two strokes!” Well, there’s been a slight change of heart. My longtime friend Tom Kozel and I have recently been enjoying some static and flying activity with the Vintage RC Society, so in keeping with my impression of era-appropriate, I’ve opted for an old Fox Manufacturing Falcon .60 twostroke powerplant for my Sportster old-timer. The engine is mounted between two hardwood rails. The rails are separated by a thick piece of balsa that should be trimmed to set the rails apart at the correct distance to accommodate the engine. A narrower

crankcase would necessitate trimming one edge of the balsa piece, and a wider crankcase would require a shim on one or both sides. My Falcon was a perfect fit, so I used a generous application of BSI slow-setting epoxy to assemble the hardwood rails, the balsa separator and the four machine-cut balsa side rails. Clamps should be used to ensure the tight fit of these joints. Rickety-old glow engines produce far greater levels of vibration than today’s electric motors. The Sportster’s music-wire landing gear legs are held to their mounting

Fuselages: Part 3 plates with heavy-duty, slotted nylon clamps from Du-Bro Products. The clamps come in the kit, but it will be necessary to measure, mark and drill the plywood mounting plates to get the clamps in their correct locations. Templates are provided in the instruction manual. Later, when the mounting plates are installed, the forward plate must be trimmed to fit between the curved-in fuselage sides. If no changes were made to the balsa center piece, the completed engine mount will fit snugly between the plywood inner walls of the fuselage sides. Add shims if you narrowed the balsa piece, and trim

the sides of the mount if you had to add shims to accommodate an engine with a wider crankcase. When the mount fits correctly at the tail, squeeze the forward sides together with your fingers to see that mount fits well at the forward end. Use five-minute epoxy to install the top sections of the #2 and #3 plywood bulkheads. If they are installed correctly, flush with the upper fuselage longerons, they will set the correct downthrust angle for the engine mount. Coat the edges of the bulkheads and the sides of the mount with epoxy, and install the engine mount into the fuselage,

drawing the fuselage sides together at the nose and clamping them tightly until the epoxy cures. I had a slight gap between the mount and the fuselage sides at the halfway point, so I turned the fuselage on its side and weighted the gap shut with #7 lead shot in a couple of plastic soda bottles. When the epoxy on the mount cures, add the lower sections of the #2 and #3 bulkheads, and temporarily install a matching pair of spruce crossmembers at the front of the fuselage. For longevity and greater insurance against vibration, I cut and fitted 3/8-in. triangle stock at

28 To close the slight gap my model had between the engine mount and the inner wall of the forward fuselage, I turned the fuselage on its side and used lead shot in plastic soda bottles to weight down the offending areas.

Here are the lower sections of the #2 and #3 plywood bulkheads. Install these with five-minute epoxy. Use gap-filling or five-minute epoxy to tack-glue the two previously cut crossmembers, top and bottom, at the forward end of the fuselage, Clamps will most likely be needed to keep things secure until the adhesive cures.

30 Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m a firm believer in reinforcing engine-mounting rails, firewalls, retract rails and other shake-prone areas with balsa triangle stock. I chose 3/8-in. triangle for my Dallaire, and used gap-filling CA to install the strips. Cut and sand each piece for a perfect fit before applying any adhesive. The strips will have to bend outward to fit tightly against the forward walls of the fuselage side. This fit will be more easily attained if you make several cuts in the back side of the triangle stock with a Zona saw.

The added triangle strips reinforce every joint in the engine mount area. This bottom view shows where and how my strips were installed, even the upright strips trapping bulkheads #2 and #3.

RC-SF.COM

Fuselages: Part 3

32 Same goes for this top view of the engine mount area. Note that the balsa center piece of the engine mount was aligned with the #2 bulkhead when the mount was installed. Again, triangle stock is everywhere and will help keep the mount secure enough to ensure a long service life of withstanding the vibration of a vintage twostroke engine.

every joint that mated the engine mount, the plywood bulkheads and the fuselage sides. Gap-filling CA is fine here because there is ample surface area for a solid grip between the pieces, and the entire engine-mounting area will be coated with epoxy after the model has been covered. My final step for this installment is fitting the engine onto the mount. Bore a hole in the balsa nose block, just wide enough in diameter to clear the prop washer at the base of the engine’s crankshaft. Remove the top spruce crossmember you installed temporarily, and you will have the room you need to rest the engine’s mounting lugs flat on the hardwood mounting rails. Hold the bored nose block against the front of the fuselage and slide the engine forward or aft until the desired nose/ propeller clearance is reached. Hold the engine tightly so its position doesn’t shift, put the nose block aside and apply a small dot of gap-filling CA at one or two points along the joints where the engine lugs meet the mounting rails. There are several methods of marking the mounting locations on the rails. Spray a quick shot of waterbased paint through the mounting lugs, shorten a pencil to clear the exhaust port or any other protrusion and make your marks, or save yourself a lot of work and purchase

The closing step of this installment is to mark the locations of the engine mount holes. The details are in the text, but the short story is to purchase a Dead-Center Hole Locator by the folks at Great Planes. You’ll be eight bucks lighter but a happier and more accurate hole-driller for years to come. “Ain’t no better way to do it.” Stay with me, my friends. There’s more Dallaire fuselage coming in the next two issues.

a Dead-Center Hole Locator from Great Planes. For just $7.99, you’ll get an easy-to-use tool that will help you find the “dead-center” of every hole you’ll ever need for engine mounting, servo mounting, undercarriage mount plates and anything else. It even drills a 1/16-in. starter for your drill bit. Mark the engine mounting holes, and pop the engine free of those tiny CA tacks you made to hold it while you found the hole locations. Drill the mounting holes in the hardwood mounts, and install the appropriate blind nuts on the underside of the rails to accept the correct-size mounting bolts for your engine. My Falcon was purchased used, and the mounting had already been slightly enlarged for #8 fasteners. I used 8-32 x 1-1/4-in. stainless sockethead sheet-metal screws and Du-Bro Products’ 8-32 Blind Nuts. Pull the blind nuts up tightly against the rails, and apply a bead of quick-set epoxy or gap-filling CA all around the base of each blind nut. You can either be extra careful to avoid getting adhesive on the threads of the blind nuts, or simply apply a small dab of Vaseline Petroleum Jelly over each hole so that any excess adhesive cannot penetrate. That’s it for this installment. I haven’t forgotten about the wings and fuselages for the Sig Spacewalker II and Dynaflite Super Decathlon, or the fuselage for the Ziroli Dr.1

triplane. They will be constructed in the next several phases of the series. Before that, however, I will complete the Dallaire fuselage in the next two installments. The next one will address installing the lower formers and stringers, carving and sanding the nose blocks and fuselage framework and fitting the fuel tank and plumbing. The second will show you how I installed my model’s pushrods and carrier tubes, the JR SPORT ST47BB servos, the full-range Spektrum AR600 Sport receiver and the JR Charge Switch. Many of the techniques I describe in this “Building Model Airplanes” series for RC Sport Flyer have been demonstrated in previous installments. If you are enjoying the series and find your building skills improving from the information presented, please consider having back issues on hand for reference, just in case you want a refresher or may have missed something along the way. Back issues can be ordered from the publisher, and subscriptions are available at $25 for 12 issues. Building model airplanes is fun and rewarding, and there’s no feeling more rewarding than stepping back from an ongoing project, looking at what you’ve accomplished and mulling over the “you” that’s become a built-in part of the model. This is art, my friends, and your skills are surely developing.

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BY Rob Caso

Sheeting A Lost Art You Can Easily Learn

hile I love almost-readyto-fly (ARF) aircraft and agree that they certainly do have a place in RC land, flying them is somewhat of a hollow experience for me. Nothing can quite compare to flying something you actually made yourself, or to the learning experience that comes with it, at least for me. Even in this “take it out of the box and throw it in the air” RC world, there will eventually come a time in a serious RCer’s life that will involve fixing or, dare I say, “building” an airplane. Sorry, guys, assembling an ARF is not “building”— it’s, well, assembling. Although I embrace all materials under my “use whatever works” protocol, balsa is still a popular medium for skinning fuselages and wings, the former of which often have compound curves. A compound curve is a surface that curves in two directions—a football is a perfect example, and some of my favorite aircraft have football-shaped fuselages, including the subject model used in this article. Balsa has a grain, and as such, likes to curve on only one direction, parallel to the grain. Try to bend it at 90 degrees against the grain, and you will likely bend it only a little before it snaps in half. Some balsa sheets are easier to bend than others, since balsa density can vary from about four to sixteen pounds per cubic foot. Balsa in the four-to-six-pound range is referred

to as “contest,” as it is very light, but it is quite hard to find. Even if you try to buy it, what you will usually wind up with is balsa in the six-toeight-pound range or higher. After all, the suppliers know you’re not going to audit them, and what would you do with a cubic foot of cut-up balsa sheet anyway? Nevertheless, for skinning purposes, balsa sheet should be on the softer side, have an even grain and not crack when bent with its grain. It takes a little practice to know a good piece of sheet when you meet one. But, if you build a fuselage you will learn quickly. For starters, err on the side of “too soft.”

Small filler strips on either side of the central longeron were added to provide more area to glue the skinning to the frame. Generally, a 1/4-in.-wide stringer is ideal.

These are open areas to be sheeted on my Bulldog. The previously applied sheeting was installed up to the centerline of the stringers. This makes sheeting successive portions of the model much easier.

How To

In this article, I am working on a 51-in.-wingspan Springfield “Bulldog,” a redesign of my very successful 34-in. model. It will be my entry in next year’s NEAT Fair 1930s racer demonstration. To give you some Again, these are the areas that are going to get sheeted on the Bulldog. Ensuring that the sheeting is lined up on the centerline of the stringers will make the successive sheeting easier.

Holding the sheet against a previously installed piece or the centerline of the stringer, mark the sheet similarly in the upper left corner.

RC SPORT FLYER — December 2012

perspective, the fuselage is about 8 in. in diameter—that’s about 24 in. of sheeting around the circumference. In retrospect, sheeting the larger model was actually easier than the small one—there’s just more of it. Both have the same bullet shape (a compound curve), but the larger model’s curves are gentler and more

Sheeting

While holding the aft part of the sheet in situ, cut the sheet at the nose, leaving at least 1/4–1/2 in. of excess wood hanging out over the edge of the former.

At the lower midpoint, make reference marks to use as fore and aft alignment points. This is more important if the section was being applied in the center of a structure, with no defined end points.

To establish the width of the sheet at the nose, make a mark where the new piece intersects at the upper right of the balsa sheet.

At the center point of the sheet where the reference marks were made, measure the vertical distance between the existing sheets (or centerlines). Since this is a curved surface being measured with a linear tool, be generous with the measurement.

gradual. But then, the sheets are bigger. Before starting a job like this, plan out how large to make the sheets and what exactly you are going to glue them to—one will most likely determine the other. Also, you have to be very careful while sheeting a curved and tapered fuselage not to induce a twist or “rack” to the fuselage because the sheeting will pull on each side of the fuselage, and you can apply only one piece at a time. Make sure that the framework can take the in-process stress. In this case, the fuselage is built on a removable, four-axis plywood frame onto which the circular bulkheads index. Then, slotted longerons are added. They tie everything together, along with plain stringers that run up to the scale “open” sections of the fuselage. In short, the stringers

prevent rack and off-center misalignment. Even so, the fuselage could still corkscrew a bit if it were not for the building frame. So, once the fuselage is stringered, you can sheet away with impunity. Stringer and bulkhead spacing are critical. You can’t sheet in midair, so be wary of designs that don’t give you any stringers to sheet to or if the bulkheads are too far apart. Either or both of these design flaws will result in sheeting that is poorly supported (i.e., weak) and that flattens over the center of the unsupported area. The result will be a poor surface to finish as well as the necessity of adding a ton of filler. For just about any size model, the maximums are about 2.5 in. between stringers and 4.0 in. between bulkheads. If they are any farther apart, more structure should be added, which will ultimately

be lighter than adding filler. These are the maximum values—smaller models should have tighter spacing, but larger models should not deviate too much from these numbers, almost no matter how big they are. Certainly, the type and thickness of the sheeting material will play a role in spacing also. If you are sheeting with thicker balsa—perhaps 1/8 in. or so—you can increase the spacing somewhat. On my Bulldog I’m using 3/32-in. balsa, and the spacing on this model was in accordance with the above specification, which is perfect for 3/32-in. wood. When in doubt, add the needed structure and make the sheeting job easy to do. Since the Bulldog tapers to the tail, the sheeting must follow suit. In extreme cases, the sheeting should be notched with a slender “V” at one end, but I try to avoid this by RC-SF.COM

Sheeting

Transfer the central measurement to the new sheeting. A set of protractors will be a big help.

Initially cut the sheet about 1/4 in. wide of the left, center and right marks.

After some trial fitting, make cuts closer to the marks, noting that the aft taper will require a slightly curved cut to correspond with the fuselage taper.

Once the sheet fits, apply a light spray of water to allow the sheet to curve. Also work it with your hands to get it to bend.

using extra stringers and cutting two small pieces of sheet instead of one large. The key to successful sheeting is to work off centerlines and to make accurate marks where the sheet must be cut to properly butt against either a centerline or against a prior piece. Another tip is to avoid getting glue on the sheeted surface,

as sandpaper won’t cut it—the blob will simply get pushed down and then pop up after the sandpaper goes by. Then, it’s worse as all around the glue spot is now sanded lower, making the glue spot stand out even more. It’s maddening. Cut it out and fill it if necessary. I also leave a small gap between the sheeting that is filled

Make another test fit, but this time completely seat the sheeting to see if it fits properly. As you can see, the wood must form compound curves around the formers.

RC SPORT FLYER — December 2012

later, especially if I cannot access the area from below or inside. This gives me the option of applying some thin cyanoacrylate glue to set any sheeting not completely bonded to the airframe. The photos show the rest of my secrets …

Apply thick CA to the framework, spritz the back of the sheet with accelerator and then apply it quickly and firmly, pressing down all over its surface. Apply spackle filler while the sheet is still damp.

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BY Jerry Smith

Soldering Create High-Quality Solder Joints Every Time

This is my arsenal of soldering irons and solder. I use a Hakko FX888, which provides me with instant startup, variable iron tip heat control and a great selection of iron tips. The cordless iron powered with Butane, from Solder-It.com, is great to take to the flying field or other remote places.

o you fly electric model airplanes? Even if you don’t, the necessity of soldering is hard to avoid. Whether it is soldering on a battery connector or marrying two wires together, it is a skill that must be learned. Why not learn what is involved so you can do it yourself—with confidence that you’ll create perfect solder joints? Soldering can be a daunting task if you’ve not done it much, but there is a lot of information available to teach you the proper way to make great solder joints that are strong and have low resistance. I am going to tell you how I do it. This article might look rudimentary

RC SPORT FLYER — December 2012

if you already have experience with soldering. No matter—read on and you just might learn a trick or two that you didn’t know.

The Right Soldering Iron for the Job

You cannot create good solder joints if you do not have the right tool for the job. Soldering irons come in many different sizes and wattages. Some have fine micro tips for small work, and others have large spade tips for heavier work. I recommend you start by asking yourself, “What soldering task will I be doing?” Then pick an iron that covers the range of soldering types you intend

to do. Generally a 30- to 40-watt iron will work well for most of the joints you’ll likely make on electric airplanes. Typically, a small iron, with the right tip, can be purchased for less than $20 at Home Depot® or other hardware stores. If you plan on doing a lot of soldering, or just like having good tools to work with, a better choice might be a soldering station. They provide variable iron temperatures and equipment to help you keep the tip clean. My soldering station heats up and is ready to use in less than a minute! The one I use is a Hakko model FX-888. This is one of the more popular models and is reasonably priced, but other station

Soldering

The soldering jig from KillerBeeCnc.com comes in handy for holding various connectors when soldering. You don’t need one when soldering bullet connectors; just use a plain piece of wood with appropriately sized holes to hold the connectors. Soldering paste will help clean the part to accept the solder. Adjustable wire strippers offer better control than an X-Acto blade.

The soldering jig acts as a third hand to make things easier to solder. Place the wires together as shown and apply the solder. You can choose from many such jigs available on the market.

brands include Weller®, Stahl, Tenma and SMD.

Selecting the Solder

Once you have an iron, you must tin the tip of the iron to prepare it for use. First, heat the iron. Then apply solder to the tip and coat it completely. When it has cooled you should see a bright coating of solder all over the tip. You may want to clean the tip with solder flux, which will make for a better tinning. When soldering, it is important for joints to have low resistance. Remember, power is equal to resistance squared times current, so a high resistance joint will suck

When soldering a connector post or wires together, it is always best to tin the surfaces first. This ensures solder adhesion on both parts that are being soldered. Always add a small amount of solder to the tip before soldering.

Shown here is too much solder on the joint! When soldering the wires together, apply a small amount of solder to the tip. Use just enough so the solder will flow through the joint and form a solid joint. Let it cool before moving.

power for the circuit. For soldering electrical joints, use a rosin core solder. I have used Kester Solder #44, which is 60% tin and 40% lead, for years. It’s reliable and is available in many diameters—mine happens to be 0.031 in. (0.75 mm). You can also buy lead-free rosin core solder. Leadfree solder is less harmful to the environment but can make getting a good joint difficult. Craftsman has a 95% tin and 5% antimony (no lead) solder with fast-acting rosin flux. It melts at 464 degrees F (240 degrees C), which is a bit higher than the Kester® solder. Both of these solders work well for your electrical soldering connections. For soldering

non-electrical connections I use StayBrite® solder, which is cadmium free, has silver- and tin-bearing properties and is stronger, with a slightly higher melting temperature. Stay-Brite solder is available at most hobby shops too.

Keep the Soldering Tip Clean

One of the biggest and most frustrating problems in soldering is heat transfer from the iron to the part being soldered. If the iron is not clean, a black, oxidized coating will cover the tip of the iron when you try to use it. This coating will forming a heat transfer barrier. You can hold RC-SF.COM

Soldering

When soldering bullet connectors, you really don’t need a soldering jig. A piece of wood with the right size holes is perfect for the job. All you need is something to hold the connector while you solder it.

The soldering jig also acts as a heat sink to protect the connector from melting. After tinning both parts of the connection, add a small amount of solder to the tip and apply heat to the connection until you see the solder flow. Let it cool.

When soldering a bullet connector, apply heat and fill the well of the connector with molten solder. Then reheat the connector until the solder is liquid again and stick the wire into it. Let it cool, and you have a perfect joint. Don’t forget the heat shrink tubing for insulation.

When soldering my Deans Ultra connector to a battery I solder one lead at a time. After I am done I insulate it to prevent shorting. Then I place another piece of shrink tubing over the whole connector for added safety and a professional look.

the iron to the part, but even after an extended period of time it will not transfer enough heat to the part to flow the solder. This can be extremely frustrating for those not initiated in the world of soldering, and might cause you to give up. Don’t! Keep the tip of the iron clean and you’ll discover what works. Start by using a moist sponge that you will rub the hot tip of the iron against to clean the tip. Then apply a small amount of solder to the tip to re-tin it. Keep the sponge at hand to keep the iron clean between joint soldering. Some steel wool will also help clean the tip if you need it. Just jab the hot iron into the wool 44

RC SPORT FLYER — December 2012

a few times, and it will remove the oxidation. There is one thing that you might want to add to your workbench, and that is a small vice or soldering clamp. It is invaluable for holding the parts/ wires together while you apply heat and solder to the joint. If you don’t solder much you’ll likely need to learn the process over. It is like programming your computer radio transmitter, however, and soon you’ll be a pro. With practice and the right tools, you will gain the confidence you need to create superb solder joints every time. It just isn’t that hard to do.

Things to Remember

• Clean and tin the soldering iron tip often. • Always tin the parts of the wire that are to be joined. • Whenever possible, twist the wires together before soldering for a good mechanical connection. • Do not tin the wires too much or apply excess solder to the connection. • Always insulate the soldered connections, once they have cooled, with shrink tubing to prevent electrical shorts. • Do not overheat the solder posts when soldering.

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0.4oz $5.99

TET1188

70MM

0.5oz $8.39

SPARE TIRE

This engine is very easy to operate with smooth running characteristics and the ability to run well on fuel in a variety of nitro percentages. But we still recommend YS 20/20 fuel for best results. Fits the same area as the 1.20. Displacement 23cc Bore 32.0mm Stroke 29.0mm Weight 890g

packaged & priced individually

SULLIVAN SKYLITE LIGHT WEIGHT WHEELS SUL874

WHEELS SKYLITE TRD 2-1/4” .66oz

$ 9.39

SUL875

WHEELS SKYLITE 2-1/2”

.65oz

$12.46

SUL876

WHEELS SKYLITE 2-3/4”

1.02oz

$13.44

SUL877

WHEELS SKYLITE 3”

1.17oz

$10.45

SUL879

WHEELS SKYLITE 3-1/2” (1)

2.26oz

$10.60

SUL881

WHEELS SKYLITE 4”

3.25oz

$11.96

SUL882

WHEELS SKYLITE 4-1/2”

4.96oz

$11.55

SUL883

WHEELS SKYLITE 5”

5.51oz

$11.57

DMSS (Dual Modulation Spectrum System) RAO1T Full range telemetry antenna/remote receiver

2.4GHz JR DMSS system with Internal Antenna for receive and Telemetry transmit Length: 1.10 in (28mm) Width: 1.06 in (27mm) Height: 0.22 in (5.5mm) Weight: 0.14 in (4 g) packaged & priced individually

$42.99

Decenber 2012

1815 South Research Loop Tucson, Arizona 85710 Phone: (520) 722-0607 E-mail: info@desertaircraft.com Web Site: desertaircraft.com

DA-200

Price $2795

Displacement: 12.20 cin (200 cc) Output: 19 hp Weight: 10.95 lb (4.95 kilos) Length: 9.625 in. (244 mm) Warranty: Two Years

DA-150

Price $1395

Displacement: 9.15 ci (150 cc) Output: 16.5 hp Weight: 7.96 lb (3.61 kilos) Length: 7.67 in. (195 mm) Warranty: Three year

DA-100L

Price $999

Displacement: 6.10 ci (100 cc) Output: 9.8 hp Weight: 5.57 lb (2.53 kilos) Length: 6.5 in. (162.5 mm) Warranty: Three year

DA-50-R

Price $595

Displacement: 3.05 ci (50 cc) Output: 5.0 hp Weight: 2.94 lb (1.33 kilos) Length: 6.7 (170 mm) Warranty: Three year

DA-170

Price $1695

Displacement: 10.48 ci (171.8 cc) Output: 18 hp Weight: 8.05 lb (3.56 kilos) Length: 7.67 in. (195 mm) Warranty: Three year

DA-120

Price $1199

Displacement: 7.4 ci (121 cc) Output: 11 hp Weight: 4.95 lb (2.25 kilos) Length: 6.25 in. (159 mm) Warranty: Three year

DA-85

Price $795

Displacement: 5.24 ci (85.9 cc) Output: 8.5 hp Weight: 4.3 lb (1.95 kilos) Length: 5.9 in. (150 mm) Warranty: Three year

BY Wil Byers

These are the five radio systems we tested, along with their receivers. Note that the 6.0-V receiver battery was our standard Rx voltage.

Radio Ranges I

An Inside Scoop on 2.4-GHz Radio System Performance

n a former life I worked in a Standards Laboratory for about a decade. There we measured all things mechanical, dimensional and electrical. It was a great job and tons of fun to know very accurately the frequency of a signal generator, a voltage source, a standard resistor or what have you. It taught me that you must test and measure to know realworld performance. It also taught me that there are environmental and man-made conditions that truly impact measurement and performance—even one’s global position can have an impact. Over the last few years many of us in the hobby have heard lots of different radio range performance numbers. Some of those numbers have been blamed for the loss of control and crashes of airplanes. Alternatively, there are some pretty wild claims that are particularly hard to believe. Having performed radio range tests on 72-MHz systems about 10 years ago it seemed right to test the new generation of 2.4-GHz spread spectrum systems. This was 48

RC SPORT FLYER — December 2012

especially true in light of the fact that I have some large-scale airplanes and gliders that I plan to fly next spring—and spring isn’t that far away, even if it is just December. The thing with large-scale gliders, especially forty-percenters and bigger, is that you tend to fly them at extreme distances when flying in and following a thermal. So, my Standards Laboratory background had me itching to test the new radio transmitters (Tx) and their receivers (Rx) that had come in for review: Futaba 18MZ, Hitec Aurora 9, Jeti DC-16, JR XG11 and Spektrum DX18. These are all what I would consider state-of-the-art radio systems. They also offer telemetry as an added feature to RC consumers.

Standards

All the new radio systems now provide spread spectrum in the 2.4GHz band in one form or fashion. They may use different algorithms for transmitting and receiving the signal, as well as the hardware to code and decode the signal. All the systems we tested transmit in the 2.4-GHz

bandwidth. The thing that is so great about spread spectrum technology is that the data packets are transmitted over a wide-frequency spectrum. Where that data lives on the spectrum at any time is typically randomly generated. By “hopping” the signal/data around the spectrum, the signal becomes significantly less prone to interference. Yeah, and it means that we no longer have designated channels that our transmitters operate on too. But that is not nearly as important as the immunity to RF interference. So, our first standard was using 2.4-GHz (GHz = billions of cycles per second) transmitters. Our second standard was using the same receiver battery for each of the radios’ receivers. In this case we opted for a 6.0-volt NiMH battery. I felt this was better than using a LiPo pack on those receivers that would accept such. After all, we wanted to compare apples to apples and receivers to receivers so to speak. After each test the NiMH receiver battery was recharged to its maximum capacity and voltage.

Radio Ranges

Here you see our standard stick (haha), the receivers, the Rx battery pack and a servo we used to monitor signal reception.

Next we needed a place where we would have clear line of sight for the receiversâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; maximum ranges. Kiona Butte was chosen because it has a maximum elevation of 1286 ft and drops precipitously to the valley floor that is just 380 ft above sea level. As a result, we decided to position the transmitters and the Tx operator very near the top of the hill, but on the edge where a steep dropoff occurs. The transmitters were then placed on top of a fiberglass ladder, five feet off the ground. Note that the full wavelength of a 2.4-GHz signal is .125 m (4.921 in.). Putting the transmitter on top of the ladder guaranteed that none of the signal would reach to and be absorbed by the ground plane. The receivers were then mounted to a wooden boom (stick). The boom would then This shows you how we set up the satellite receivers for the Spektrum DX18 system, as well as the servo and battery used.

be held outside of an automobile in clear sight of the transmitter. A servo was used to monitor that control signals were being received by each of the five receivers. For each test, the auto was driven on a straight road (Kennedy Rd) that runs nearly perpendicular to Kiona Butte.

Test

Each of the tests began by binding the receiver to its respective transmitter. Once the receiver was bound and checked for good response to the transmitter signal, the auto was driven down the hill and along the length of the straight road. With the exception of going under a bridge at the bottom of the hill to initiate the tests, line of sight with the transmitters was never interrupted. Also, each receiver was tested well above the ground to guarantee that the ground plane would not attenuate the signal. What we found immediately as we traveled down the hill was that 2.4-GHz signals are very easily attenuated when the terrain

blocks the line of sight between the Tx and Rx. However, what was quite interesting is that every radio system tested would immediately complete a rebind between Tx and Rx once the line of sight was established again. During our road testing, once the signal was lost by the receiver we would backtrack to see when the signal was regained. In each case, the signal was regained in less than .05 mi.

Results

Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve published the results of our tests in the included table. You can see for yourself that the Hitec Aurora 9 and its OptimaÂŽ 9-channel receiver bested the other systems. It is worth noting that at 6.32 mi the Aurora system was still working well, but we were about to lose line of sight between the transmitter and the receiver. I would underscore that our tests are simply what we found for the units we received for review purposes. They were not tweaked

The DC-16 system does not employ satellite receivers, but it has two antennas, which would normally be at right angles to one another.

RC-SF.COM

Radio Ranges This Google Earth photo shows each of the radio range tests relative to the distances they went before control was lost.

This table shows radios, their respective receivers and so on, the battery voltage and the working range of each of the systems.

for performance by any of the manufacturers. In fact, none of the manufacturers was contacted to discuss our tests before they were done. I would add at this point that the best system we tested previously in the 72-MHz band only went 4.1 mi. So, if you look at our data you can see that these systems performed extremely well. While some of the transmitter/ receiver systems went farther than others, I would dare say that most if not all pilots would have a very difficult time seeing and flying with authority their model at any distance greater than two miles. Alternatively, a co-pilot with a set of binoculars could likely see an airplane well enough at two miles to assist a pilot in flying it, but who is going to do that?

Synopsis

What I hope our tests of these systems do is put to bed the notion that 2.4-GHz systems do not perform well at long distances. I would add that while our transmitters were positioned high above the receivers, it would be reasonable to say that in most cases the receiver is going to be 50

RC SPORT FLYER — December 2012

Transmitter Type

Receiver Type

# of Satellites

# Antenna

Rx Battery

Working Range Miles

JR XG11

RG1131B DMSS

6.0 Volt

2.25

Spektrum DX18

AR9020

6.0 Volt

3.95

Futaba 18MZ

Futaba R7008SB

6.0 Volt

4.0

Jeti DC-16

Duplex R9

6.0 Volt

4.7

Hitec Aurora 9

Optima 9

6.0 Volt

6.3+

well above the transmitter. I guess we could have turned the test hardware around to perform the tests, but we wanted the transmitter free of any ground plane or signal reflection that could take place when operating it from the auto. I would add that when the receivers are installed in an airplane, the builder must be extremely cognizant of where the receiver is placed as well as where its antennas are positioned. If your model airplane’s receiver system is going to deliver ultimate performance, it must not have any hardware or structural materials blocking the transmitter’s 2.4-GHz signal. Consequently, I would be cautious about where the receiver is placed in the airplane/helicopter/ glider. I would also caution against blocking the signal with carbon fiber components or metal inside the airplane. If possible, you may even want to get the antenna out of the airplane so that nothing is blocking the signal. All that said, I feel extremely confident that the radio systems we tested will work well in any model aircraft you have in your hangar. When you throw in the fact that manufacturers now offer telemetry,

you can even know where your airplane is relative to your piloting position. How cool is that!

Distributors Futaba Hobbico 3002 N Apollo Drive, Suite #1 Champaign, IL 61822 Phone: 217-398-0007 futaba-rc.com Hitec RCD 12115 Paine Street Poway, CA 92064 Phone: 858-748-6948 hitecrcd.com Jeti Esprit Model 1240 Clearmont St NE, Unit 12 Palm Bay, FL 32905 Phone: 321-729-4287 espritmodel.com JR Radio Horizon Hobby 4105 Fieldstone Road Champaign, IL 61822 Phone: 217-352-1913 jrradios.com Spektrum Horizon Hobby 4105 Fieldstone Road Champaign, IL 61822 Phone: 217-352-1913 Spektrumrc.com

Speck-tacular

E-FLITE MYSTIQUE 2.9 M Elegant and graceful—gliding through the sky using only the energy of the air is a feeling that many RC pilots describe as spectacular. The new E-flite® Mystique™ 2.9 m sailplane is everything a modern soaring pilot could want in a glider, because it’s bred from Limited Motor Run and F5J competition. Its super-sleek fiberglass fuselage is ready for either pure sailplane enjoyment or electric power. And since lift is the name of the game, the wing of the Mystique 2.9 m features a torsionally stressed wood structure combined with an acclaimed Selig airfoil that works in harmony with its factory-hinged aileron and flap surfaces. Matched with advanced sailplane programming available in the Spektrum™ DX18 transmitter, you can take advantage of the multiple flight modes and control surface settings that allow you to master any lift condition that comes your way. Whether you’re focused on a timed flight mission or the ideal soaring machine to speck-out from the comfort of a lounge chair, check out the first E-flite high-performance electric sailplane.

SPECIFICATIONS

EFL4905

> Options for electric motor power or pure sailplane flight > Hangar 9® UltraCote® and UltraCote Lite film covering > All wood, plug-in wings with fully-hinged flaps and ailerons > Streamlined fiberglass fuselage with built-in vertical fin > Full-house sailplane control with adjustable wing camber > Large canopy provides easy access to equipment > Heavy-duty carbon fiber wing and stabilizer joiners > Two-piece, full-flying stabilizer 114 in. (2.90 m)

58.5 in. (1.48 m)

1030 sq in (66.5 sq dm) 4.20–4.60 lb (1.90–2.05 kg) 4.85–5.00 lb (2.20–2.25 kg)

( Not included. )

Optional nose cone and launch hook for pure sailplane included.

Full house wing control in the crow configuration.

VISIT

CLICK

CALL

Your Local Retailer

horizonhobby.com

1.800.338.4639

SERIOUS FUN.™

© 2012 Horizon Hobby, Inc. E-flite, Mystique, Hangar 9, UltraCote, Serious Fun and the Horizon Hobby logo are trademarks or registered trademarks of Horizon Hobby, Inc. The Spektrum trademark is used with permission of Bachmann Industries, Inc. 37766

BY Anthony Richards

RTL Fasteners Priced Right, Get Plenty of Fasteners for Your Shop

here is a multitude of different types of hardware in the RC business. They come in all shapes, sizes and levels of quality. This can make shopping difficult when searching for high-quality screws, bolts, nuts and washers that you might want to use on your models. And often, the prices for these specialty items can be inflated. Fortunately, the people of RTL Fasteners provide affordable, highquality products that make for one-stop shopping at rtlfasteners.com. Looking over their catalog is like taking a trip through your personal hardware warehouse, and in some respects it is. RTL gives customers a direct link to their complete line of fasteners. Consequently, prices are much lower than what you would find at a retail outlet. Supplying hardware sets for all uses ranging from giant-scale aircraft to park flyers as well as helicopters, RTL Fasteners has made a name for themselves by providing superb fasteners.

What You Get

For this review I got a pair of RTL’s premiere kits: the #5000 Master Builder Assortment and #992, the Complete Metric kit. These are the largest kits RTL sells. I was impressed by what I received. In the #5000 kit is a plethora of hardware consisting of 23 packs of socket head cap screws, five packs of flat washers, four packs of lock washers, four packs of button head socket drive sheet metal screws, four packs of nylon insert lock nuts, four packs of hex nuts, three packs of blind nuts, two packs of servo 52

RC SPORT FLYER — December 2012

mounting screws and one pack of miniature brass pan head Philips head wood screws. These packs provide a total of 2124 pieces of hardware, on top of four adjustable organizers with 18 compartments each. You even get a telescoping magnet pick-up tool. This $159.95 kit will set up a hobbyist with nearly all of the necessary hardware they could possibly need. It should last them for a year or more. Having more than 2000 parts of 30 different varieties stored neatly in four separate organizers, all for under $200, should make any modeler happy. As for the #992 kit, four packs of socket head cap screws, four packs of lock washers, four packs of flat washers, four packs of hex nuts, two packs of servo mounting screws, two packs of blind nuts and a pack of nylon insert lock nuts make up

The Complete Metric Assortment #992 has all the screws, bolts, washers and nuts that you’ll likely ever need for a model build.

the 1006 pieces of hardware. A set of three organizers to sort the 24 different types of parts completes the kit. Notably, RTL recently added socket drive servo screws that are made of high-quality grade 12.9 hardened black alloy steel. This experienced-modeler-designed metric kit provides a fine variety of parts and pieces for a modest $119.95. Other kit assortments available through RTL Fasteners are geared towards specific hobbyists such as park flyers, giant scale modelers and helicopter pilots, and they remove the hassle of identifying or building a set of hardware yourself. Individual packs of screws, washers and nuts and extra tools and organizers are available for purchase through their

RTL Fasteners store as well. All in all, RTL Fasteners provides an astonishing amount of conventional hardware and generous, well-designed kits for incredible prices to give all active hobbyists

a little more bang for their buck. If youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re looking to have everything you need and more for your projects, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll want to discover for yourself what RTL has to offer.

References RTL Fasteners 708 Battlefield Blvd. South #107 Chesapeake, VA 23322 1-800-239-6010 rtlfasteners.com

The Master Builder Assortment #5000 is filled with all the American Standard fasteners you could want.

Why Pay a Dollar for just 4 Screws?

We have the hardware you need at a fraction of retail! Order today at:

www.rtlfasteners.com or call 800-239-6010

708 Battlefield Blvd South #107 Chesapeake, VA 23322

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No NE w at W NJ our VE NU

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FlyiNg All ovER AgAiN NEW Tiger Moth 20cc ARF The gentle taper of the rudder and elevator, the subtle sweep of the wings, a cockpit open to wind and sky; few planes embody the romance of flight quite like the DeHavilland Tiger Moth. Experience the mystique of this pre-war trainer on a grand scale with the Hangar 9 Tiger Moth 20cc. ®

Its near-perfect outline and stunning level of detail are enough to make the heart flutter just sitting on the ramp. But the Tiger Moth’s magic truly takes hold when you’re at the controls. Because it uses the same undercambered airfoil that gave the full-scale version its easy-going flight characteristics, you’ll find it one of the most relaxing flying experiences of any size. Even pilots who’ve flown nothing bigger than .60-size sport planes will feel right at home their first time at the sticks. SPECIFICATIONS | HAN4615

Wing Transport Frames Included

Detailed Instrument Panels

*Pilot figure not included.

Wingspan Length Wing Area Weight Engine Transmitter Servos

88.0 in (2.2 m) 72.0 in (1.8 m) 2290 sq in (148 sq dm) 15.0–15.5 lb (6.80–7.10 kg) .26 cc 2-stroke gas 4+ channel 6 servos

Rekindle your romance with flight. Get to Hangar-9.com or find the Hangar 9 retailer nearest you. horizonhobby.com

© 2012 Horizon Hobby, Inc. Hangar 9 and the Horizon Hobby logo are trademarks or registered trademarks of Horizon Hobby, Inc. All other trademarks, service marks and logos are the property of their respective owners. 35961

BY Anthony Richards

DJI Hobby Flame Wheel F450

This photo was taken inside the RC Sport Flyer office so we could shoot it against a background. It flies very easily, so it was no problem.

Four Rotors For Four Times The Fun

uring the early years of aviation, a concept that interested aviators was taking off and landing vertically. Rotorcraft, aircraft that achieve lift by a set of revolving narrow-chord airfoils, were designed and tested to prove the theory of achievable vertical flight. One designer, Etienne Oehmichen, designed six rotorcraft and found great success with his second model. Oehmichen’s number two design featured four rotors and eight propellers that were driven by a single motor. The aircraft became the first successful quad-copter design and would later earn Oehmichen two world records for helicopters in distance and one-kilometer closedcircuit flight. The design was remarkably stable, yet like most rotorcraft designed, in that period, it suffered from poor performance. Later projects that experimented with the quadrotor design would improve the performance but required too much input from the pilot to control safely. Today, quad-rotors are emerging across the globe as software and

computer technology have improved to facilitate control systems and sensors to automatically stabilize the aircraft in flight. The design has become popular in unmanned aerial vehicle (UAV) research too. Amateur model aircraft builders have honed in on them also because of their

These are the parts and pieces that you’ll get from Atlanta Hobby for your Flame Wheel F450 quad-copter. They come packaged great in this very well-built kit.

RC SPORT FLYER — December 2012

simple construction and maintenance. Piloting these aircraft systems is done through direct input by way of an RC transmitter, or by a pre-programmed global positioning system (GPS), which can autonomously fly plotted circuits and paths with little or no input from a pilot. Police departments

We are controlling our Flame Wheel F450 with a Futaba 18MZ, which is definitely overkill for this heli. You can use pretty much any sixchannel radio, but it should have one three-position switch.

DJI Hobby Flame Wheel F450 and civil agencies have focused their surveillance attentions on them as well. They are operating quadcopters drones to aid in their work.

Here is my quad-copter hovering for a photo. Notice how the GPS sensor sits about 10 mm above the model’s center of gravity and the propellers.

Thanks to quad-copter kits like DJI Hobby’s Flame Wheel F450, the innovative technology and design of vertical flight is available to anyone. With its simple, yet robust airframe and four powerful brushless motors, the Flame Wheel F450 delivers exceptional power and performance in a truly innovative quad-copter design.

What You Get

• Airframe Top and bottom boards, magic and battery strap, power line pair, adhesive pads • Tools Small wrench • Interface USB charging cable, servo leads • Propellers (4) 10x4.5 / 8x4.5 clockwise or 10x4.5R / 8x4.5R counterclockwise • Speed Controllers 30-amp OPTO (4) • Motors DJI 2212 920-Kv brushless (4)

Futaba R617FS 2.4-GHz Spread Spectrum • Transmitter Futaba 8J 2.4-GHz • GPS DJI Naza GPS/Compass

In Flight

To activate the motors on your Flame Wheel F450 you’ll move both of the transmitter’s sticks into the lower left corners for an instant.

Then the motors will idle for three seconds. During that three-second period you’ll apply additional throttle. The motors will then continue to run. However, if you should not apply power the motors will stop—this is a nice safety feature. Once you throttle up the quadcopter it flies quite easily. I suggest you have a bit of helicopter piloting experience, however. Other than that the Flame Wheel F450 is not hard This shot was taken when the wind was blowing about eight miles an hour. It did not seem to affect flight performance in the least.

Need To Complete

• Tools Soldering iron, solder, #2 hex wrench • Battery Thunder Power 11.1-V 3300-mAh 3S LiPo 60C • Receiver RC-SF.COM

Assembly Your Flame Wheel F450 is going to take about six hours to assemble. You’ll discover it is fairly simple to assemble. To start, you’ll need to download the PDF version of the manual from atlantahobby.com. The manual provides accurate assembly illustrations with very simple written instructions explaining how to build your quad-copter. First you’ll mount the lower arms to the bottom board using the #2 hex driver and the provided M2.5x6 screws. These small screws are used to mount the top board to the airframe as well, so keep track of them. You will notice that the arms come in two colors, two arms per color, to help you stay oriented with the front and back of the copter. For the review quad-copter, I used white as the front and red for the rear. Next comes the Naza-M autopilot system. The layout for setting up the wiring and modules comes in a separate PDF download from the Naza-M product page on the DJI Hobby website. Again, the manual is well illustrated and easy to follow. You’re going to mount the Main Controller (MC) unit in the center of the bottom board, where the center of gravity (CG) should be, with a piece of the double-sided tape. The electronic speed controller (ESC) ports will need to face directly towards the front of the aircraft for the device to function properly. The Versatile Unit (VU) will need to be hooked up to the MC and mounted to the air frame, along with the GPS & Compass module. A cable diagram outlines what leads go where. When installing the GPS module, take note that it is extra sensitive to vibration and magnetic interference so the mounting bracket must be used to give it the distance it needs away from the rotors, motors and electronics. However, its mounting must wait until after the top board is in place. The VU is mounted to one of the side wing plates, allowing access to the USB port to update the firmware and program the system. As with the other modules, use the kit’s double-sided tape to secure it tightly to the board. Once that is finished, the motors are then mounted to the outer stations on the arms and secured with the M3x8 screws. The propellers won’t be installed until after the programming is done. After that, the ESCs are mounted and connected. to fly. In fact, I think you’ll find it is actually quite easy to pilot once it is out of ground effect, which is about two to three feet high. If you relax on the control sticks the model will almost hover by itself, that is if it is in a stable position. In the GPS mode it WILL hover by itself—it is amazing! If you are a mode two pilot, pitch and roll are controlled by the right control stick, just as with any other helicopter. You’ll yaw the quad-copter with the left stick (left and right), with throttle on the throttle stick, just as it would be for collective. Once you transition the quadcopter into forward flight it has inertia. This is due to the weight of the motors, frame, battery and so on. Just be aware that you’ll need 58

RC SPORT FLYER — December 2012

Using the kit’s hook-and-loop strips with adhesive backings, cut the strip into four squares and use those to mount the ECS to the bottom of each arm. We mounted the hook half to the airframe and the loops half to the back of the ESC. With all of the equipment mounted, you’ll need to carefully solder the power leads to their respective posts on the bottom board. An outline of what leads go where is provided in the F450 manual. Be aware that the thin leads from the VU must be soldered onto the battery power pad along with the battery leads. Soldering is a little tricky because you’ll want to keep the leads centered on their power pads. If you have soldering experience, you’ll find it easy enough to do. Once soldered, the ESC servo leads are then connected to the MC. The setup diagram is illustrated in the Naza-M manual. With the motors, ESCs, MC and VU mounted and installed, all that’s left to do on the bottom board is mount the receiver. Using the Naza-M manual, follow the hook-up instructions to ensure the proper matching of controls. After that, you’ll mount the top board to the airframe and set up the GPS mounting bracket. However, before you begin mounting it, plan the bracket’s location. I chose the forward left corner for the GPS unit, though the instructions call for it to be mounted in the center. Following the F450 manual, the top board easily mounts to the rest of the quad-copter. Using four M2.5x6 screws per corner, begin mounting the GPS bracket. Since mine uses one of the corners to mount the bracket, I opted to screw in two screws to the board first, one inboard and one outboard, then place the bracket overtop and mount it with the other two screws, running them through the bracket arms to the board. Once the bracket is mounted, the post must be inserted and the mounting plate affixed to its top. You’ll want to use five-minute epoxy to secure them. Then align the GPS unit to the top of the plate so its directional arrow and logo are facing up and pointing directly to the front of the quad-copter. Use a piece of double-sided tape to mount the GPS to the plate. That finishes the assembly of your Flame Wheel F450.

to manage that inertia as you would with any larger RC helicopter. Also, the roll rate is very manageable, although you will not use large control stick movements. The same scenario applies to yaw. When it comes to motor power you are going to discover that this little bird has plenty. I could hover the F450 about four feet off the ground with approximately 50% power. Any more than that and the quad-copter was climbing, and any less and it was coming back down into ground effect. So, go easy with throttle control until you are used to flying the F450. Then you can have some fun applying throttle and watching it shoot to altitude. As with any helicopter be sure to remove the ratchet on the throttle stick so that

you have infinite adjust and smooth throttle response. My Flame Wheel F450 gets power from a Thunder Power G6 Pro Power 11.1-V 3300-mAh 3S LiPo 65C pack. As a test, I hovered the quad-copter in a relatively stationary position with very, very careful throttle management and in GPS mode. The result was that the F450 delivered 16 min and 10 sec of flight. I also completed three gentle climbs to about 100 ft and then back down to the hover position about five feet off the ground. The pack took 3093 milliamps to recharge. I think this is outstanding performance. However, if you fly it aggressively, realize that the duration is going to be reduced by the current consumption required by the motors. So, be sure to use a

DJI Hobby Flame Wheel F450

Programming Binding the Futaba R617FS receiver and the 18MZ transmitter is easy to do. You’ll want to make certain the 18MZ’s FASST frequency is set to seven channels; otherwise it will not link to the R617FS. Turn on the transmitter, plug in the battery and then push the link button on the receiver for a few seconds, and it will bind. Once you’re finished, you’re ready to begin calibration. To set up the F450, the latest DJI software and drivers for the Naza-M autopilot system must be downloaded from the DJI website and then installed. The software is PC-compatible only. Once the software is downloaded, install it into your computer. Leave the driver installation alone for now. You’ll want to refer to the Naza-M manual for configuring your quad-copter. Using the USB cable, hook up the V-SEN unit to the computer, then fire up the transmitter and F450. The computer may try to install the driver automatically. If it does, cancel the auto-install. Navigate to the location where your driver install was downloaded on your computer and manually run the installer, carefully following its instructions. This will allow the interface between the software and the F450 to function properly. Once that is done, open the Naza Assistant application and start with the top menu “Mounting” and work your way down through the procedure. Each menu handles a different part of the Naza-M system. Under the Mounting menu, you are asked to provide the X,Y and Z coordinate locations for the GPS unit. An illustration is provided to show you which axes point which directions from the quad-copter’s center point. To the bottom right is the menu where you plug in your measurements in centimeters. This menu is only necessary if you have the GPS unit installed on your model. In the Motor Mixer menu, you select the mixing type and motor idle speed for your aircraft. Ours is set to “Quad-Rotor X” because it is a quad-rotor setup facing forward as an “X” and not “+.” Other options for hexa-rotors are included. The motor idle speed can be adjusted by dragging the cursor

anywhere between the low and high settings, with a recommended area in the center. I stayed with the recommended settings. The Tx Monitor menu is the most important. The transmitter and receiver are calibrated in it. You’ll have to calibrate the transmitter first by clicking on the Start button. Circulate the sticks all around their gimbals and finally center them. When centered, the sliders should all line up on screen and turn green. Click finish, and your transmitter is then calibrated, simple as that. The sticks monitor option is available for use when the gimbal is attached. We don’t have one with ours, so we ignored it. The Control Mode Switch is an important one, as it assigns a two- or threeposition switch to change the different flight modes from the transmitter. A linear graph is shown with the attitude, your common flight mode, as “A;” two fail-safe zones surrounding it, being used for emergency return and landings; a manual zone, seen as “M,” on the right end of the graph, used for experienced helicopter pilots to fly without auto stabilization; and a GPS zone for flying with the GPS installed, on the far left. For ours, we programmed a three-position switch to function between GPS Attitude, Attitude and Fail-Safe modes. Next below is the Autopilot menu, where the autopilot features like gain and intelligent orientation control are adjusted to fit the copter. We skipped this menu because it was automatically set for our F450 and needed no adjusting. The Gimbal menu allows you to modify the servo travel, automatic control gain and manual control speed of the pitch and roll for the optional gimbal. The last menu is the Voltage Monitoring menu. Here you can set the enable switch, the load and losses for the first and second levels of protection or levels of battery life remaining and the type of battery being used. This isn’t a critical menu to tinker with for first flight, but it can be extremely helpful should you tend to run the model’s batteries down to near empty in flight. Once you’ve calibrated all of your quad-copter’s settings, you’re ready to disconnect it from the USB and preflight your Flame Wheel F450!

You’ll delight in how easy this quad-copter is to fly and yet how fast and maneuverable it is too. I recommend that you have a bit of helicopter stick time in to help with those first flights.

RC-SF.COM

DJI Hobby Flame Wheel F450

You will be absolutely amazed by how fast this machine is if you push it in forward flight. It will rocket away from you. Be ready to keep track of its orientation.

timer to establish some baseline flight times. I’ll end by saying that the Flame Wheel F450 is a hotrod when you really get it moving in forward flight. I’m not an advanced 3D helicopter pilots, so I need to concentrate on what I’m doing while flying this little model, especially in light of the fact that one can get disoriented with this machine. It will perform very aggressive loops and rolls, but as yet I’ve not tried them.

In GPS mode the quad-copter will just sit there. You don’t have to control it. It will control itself. We’re planning to add the camera mount for some fun aerial photography.

Powered Down

This model is an extremely fun aircraft to fly. It can be either tame as a kitten or wild as a tiger. It is really up to the pilot, the autopilot system and the failsafe mode, which is quite different from flying a full-on 3D helicopter. Once I get a few hours on this quad-copter, I’m looking forward to trying the six-rotor version. I’m also planning to get the option camera mount system for this machine. When you consider that you’re

getting a machine that has four motors, four controllers, four propellers and a frame, the price of $419.99 is quite reasonable. Get one, and I think you too will find that it is enjoyable to fly.

Specifications Weight

28.2–42.3 oz (800–1200 g)

Wheelbase

17.7 in. (450 mm)

Motors

(4) DJI 2212 920-kV brushless

Speed Controllers

(4) 30-amp OPTO

Propellers

(4) 10 x 4.5 Clockwise / 10 x 4.5R Counter-clockwise

GPS

DJI Naza GPS/Compass

Battery

Thunder Power 11.1-V 3300mAh 3S LiPo

Transmitter

Futaba 18MZ 2.4-GHz

Receiver

Futaba R617FS 2.4-GHz spread spectrum

Price

$419.99

Distributor Atlanta Hobby 6110 Parkway North Drive Cumming, GA 30040 (678) 513-4450 atlantahobby.com FMI DJI Innovations dji-innovations.com

As you can see in this photo the frame is built to easily accept a camera mount and the associated hardware for mounting the camera to the F450’s bottom.

RC SPORT FLYER — December 2012

™

RC-SF.COM

BY Gene Cope

RAF S.E.5a BNF A Pivotal World War I Fighter Retakes The Skies

eveloped by the Royal Aircraft Factory (RAF), three RAF S.E.5 (Experimental Scout) prototypes were produced and first flown in November 1916. The first two were lost in crashes, with the first killing the chief test pilot of the Royal Aircraft Factory on January 28, 1917. The third underwent modifications before

A 2.5-mm flathead self-tapping screw is used to mount the undercarriage to the fuselage in hard point locations.

RC SPORT FLYER — December 2012

You’re going to love the looks of this little warbird as well as how well it flies. Ours was easy to assemble, so we had it flying in almost no time. FMI go to parkzone.com.

While the 1800-mAh 11.1-V LiPo battery is charging you’ll discover there is plenty of time to assemble the aircraft.

The right aileron servo linkage is shown with the transfer rod to the upper wing’s aileron. Note the pin locking the upper wing to the strut.

production started. Only 77 RAF S.E.5s were manufactured with the 150-hp V8 piston engine because it was plagued with problems and proved to be unreliable. A 200hp gear drive V8 replaced it in the RAF S.E.5a. Six aircraft companies produced 5265 S.E.5a aircraft by the time the war ended. ParkZone has captured this stable World War I fighter in their Z-Foam RAF S.E.5a park flyer. The detail of the aircraft is exceptional, from canvas seam stitching, detailed footholds and a fuselage-mounted Vickers machine-gun to a pilot with a scarf and even a Lewis .303 machine gun that mounts on top of the upper wing. In the time it takes to charge the 1800-mAh S3 11.1-V LiPo battery

ParkZone® RAF S.E.5a BNF that is included in the kit, you can assemble the RAF S.E.5a with only a small Phillips screwdriver. Once the battery is charged, it’s a matter of binding the receiver to a Spectrum® DSM2 transmitter, adjusting the flight controls and checking the center of gravity before heading to the airfield.

What you Get

Airplane Airframe, wings, linkages, hardware, landing gear Fixed landing gear Propeller 10 x 8 Receiver Spektrum AR600 DSM2/DSMX Motor E-flite 960-Kv 480 Brushless Outrunner Speed Controller E-flite 30-amp Pro Switch-Mode ESC

The horizontal stabilizer is held in place by the vertical fin mount and two 2-mm screws. The screws rest below the surface of the fin’s base.

Servos (4) ParkZone SV80 Battery 3S 11.1-V. 1800-mAh 15C LiPo Charger 2–3-cell DC variable rate LiPo charger The rudder and elevator control rods provide solid control of the surfaces. Note the surface detailing on the horizontal stabilizer.

The S.E.5a is very easy to see when it is in flight and at altitude, as illustrated in this banking turn.

The tail wheel assembly was changed to the tail skid to maintain a scale appearance and because it works best on grass.

Needed to Complete Transmitter Spektrum DX8 DSM2/DSMX

In Flight

The natural stability of the RAF S.E.5a wing dihedral has been carried over into the park flyer. A few test runs were made by lifting the tail to determine what throttle setting was best for takeoff. Turning it into the wind, three-quarters throttle was plenty to get it off the grass and airborne with a steady climb. Once at altitude some rudder and

Inverted flight is no problem for this aircraft, but you’ll want to use some down elevator control to maintain level flight. RC-SF.COM

elevator trim were required to maintain straight and level flight at half throttle. Dual rates were used so smoother control could be maintained for flight photos. The S.E.5a has a straightforward stall with a gentle recovery. A steeper powerinduced stall is still straightforward but requires just a bit of up elevator to recover smoothly. The ailerons provide plenty of roll control, but the model still handles very well in tight circles. The large, three-inch-diameter wheels make grass takeoffs and landings a pleasure, but you’ll want to use a bit of flare to keep the model’s nose high on landings. The speed is not fast so it’s a pleasure to fly, somewhat like a trainer. It does nice rolls, loops and hammerhead turns and flies inverted with ease.

Landing it smoothly is just a matter of keeping a little power on and flaring just before touchdown to keep it from nosing over.

Conclusion

The kit is detailed well, goes together easily and includes everything you need for this fun little park flyer. At only $239.99 at horizon.com, it is a super-value-priced package. I consider it a worthwhile version of the famed Great War RAF fighter.

The ParkZone S.E.5a is a very complete kit. As you can see it comes with everything you need except for a battery and a transmitter.

Look at the detailing on this little fighter. You get guns, a pilot with scarf, exhaust stacks and a tail skid. It is painted in a nice WWI paint scheme too.

RC SPORT FLYER — December 2012

ParkZone® RAF S.E.5a BNF

Assembly It takes only a few minutes to assemble the RAF S.E.5a. Be sure to use a Philips screwdriver with a good tip that fits the screw heads exactly. A worn or wrongsize tip can cause screw head damage. One with a five-inch shank works best, as it clears the landing gear during assembly. The instructions are short and clear with screw identification illustrations provided. You’ll find extra screws in the packages. They are there in case you strip a screw head. While installing the lower wing and landing gear, support the fuselage with one hand to prevent damage to the fuselage from resting it on a hard surface. The cabanes are clearly marked with easy-to-remove vinyl lettering that identifies front and back struts. The wing struts rotate into position while the top wing is Control Throws Control Throws High Rate (Up/Down)

Low Rate (Up/Down)

Ailerons

7/8 / 3/4 in.

1/2 / 3/8 in.

Elevator

5/8 / 3/8 in.

Rudder

3/4 in.

The maiden flight of my S.E.5a was at my airfield where I can fly it at eye level off the end of the field. Looks great in the air, don’t you think?

Look at the gun on top of this wing. This is the kind of detailing that gives this little park flyer the scale touches you want in a WWI fighter.

located over them. Four pins lock the upper wing to the cabanes and wing struts. The stabilizer is then screwed onto the fuselage. The tail group comes with a tail wheel for hard surfaces, but since the airfield where we fly is grass, I elected to use the optional tail skid for more of a scale appearance. Once the battery was charged I bound the aircraft receiver to a Spectrum DX8 transmitter and checked the flight controls for centering. The aircraft’s center of gravity was placed three inches back from the leading edge of the top wing when powering the model with an 1800-mAh LiPo placed per the instructions. The propeller was removed and checked for balance, a step that should not be overlooked, as ours did require balancing. The aircraft has built-in aileron differential so the ailerons will travel up more than they do down.

Distributor Horizon Hobby 4105 Fieldstone Road Champaign, IL 61822 Phone: 217-352-1913 horizonhobby.com

Specifications Wingspan

37.1 in. (943 mm)

Length

30.0 in. (760 mm)

Weight

40.6 oz. (1150 g); reviewed: 38.0 oz

Servos

(4) SV80

Propeller

10 x 8

Speed Control

30-amp Pro Switch-Mode BEC

Battery

E-flite 11.1-V 1800-mAh 3S LiPo

Charger

DC-powered variable rate 2- or 3-cell LiPo

Receiver

Spektrum AR600 DSM2/ DSMX

Motor

E-flite 960-Kv 480 Brushless Outrunner

Speed Controller

E-flite 30-amp Pro SwitchMode ESC

Transmitter

Spektrum DX8 DSM2/ DSMX

Price

$239.99

My test pilot is banking my S.E.5a for the camera. I love the fact that the pilot comes with a scarf and the wing has big roundels on top, plus the GUN! RC-SF.COM

BY Anthony Richards

Event DVDs

Relive The Best Of This Year’s RC Action At Home

ith 2012 nearing its end, the memories and moments of this year’s RC events are still flickering in the minds of event participants. Thankfully for those who were not able to attend, a few enthusiasts took the time and money to provide excellent video coverage of the year’s highlights, which they present on DVD for all to enjoy. SKS Video Productions and Higher Plane Productions traveled to some of the event venues and compiled in-depth videos to give viewers a professional look at airplanes, pilots, hardware and sites. These DVDs are worthwhile if you want to see what you missed or refresh your memory.

SKS: 2012 NEAT Fair

During September 14–16, hundreds of RC aviation enthusiasts and pilots lined an airfield at Peaceful 66

RC SPORT FLYER — December 2012

Valley Campgrounds off Route 30 near Downsville, New York for the 2012 Northeast Electric Aircraft Technology (NEAT) Fair. The electrics-only event featured scale warbirds, foamy jets, night flights and an indoor fly-in. Highlights of the DVD include a good-looking Boeing 717 drawn in 3D software and CNC cut from insulation foam by Eric Magilos. The aircraft is covered with newspaper applied with a mixture of wood glue and water. Adam Woodworth’s CNCcut Eurofighter EF2000 Typhoon is another amazing aircraft you’ll see in this well-done DVD. The DVD features many other interesting aircraft as well as pilot interviews. I’d say it is a good video, given the amount of finely edited content and variety packed into 100 minutes. It definitely keeps the viewer’s attention.

SKS: Warbirds Over Delaware 2012

At Lums Pond State Park in Kirkwood, Delaware, a gathering of large-scale vintage aircraft took to the skies on July 11–15. Detailed World War I-era biplanes and sleek World War II legends lined the airfield, sporting gorgeous accents that reflected the passion of their pilots. This event attracted international pilots from Great Britain and Puerto Rico. The DVD includes clips from the event with pilot introductions and aircraft flight demonstrations, including the exciting noontime warbird gaggles. Viewers are treated to well-shot flights of Kevin Moran Senior’s enormous P-51D Mustang “Glamorous Glen III” sporting a 100in. wingspan, plus Mac Hodges’ 20-ftwingspan B-29 Stratofortress, with its

Event DVDs scale Bell X-1 rocket airplane drop. With a length of 106 minutes, the DVD offers interesting and attractive footage. If you like scale RC aviation, this DVD may convince you to make your way to the Warbirds Over Delaware event next year.

SKS: The Planes of Top Gun 2012

Considered to be the best scale RC show in the country, Top Gun brought out the biggest and the best to the Lakeland Linder Airport in Lakeland, Florida on May 2–6. The event is extraordinary, with amazing new aircraft each year. This DVD focuses on some of them. As noted on the back of the DVD case, “This year’s coverage represents a radical departure from the way we’ve presented Top Gun to you in the past.” SKS and Propwash take the viewer on a tour of the newcomers and their beautiful machines. A beautiful, 52-lb dry weight Hawk jet in the colors of the Royal Air Force demonstration team is the Red Arrow. It is just one of the many interesting aircraft making its debut at Top Gun 2012 and in this DVD. As with most SKS DVDs, there are exciting clips, well-done interviews and enough variety to make the production’s 92 minutes pass quickly.

SKS: Joe Nall Week 2012

At the Triple Tree Aerodrome in Woodruff, South Carolina, the largest Fun-Fly event in the world celebrated its 30th anniversary from May 12–19. Large-scale RC aircraft pilots flock to this annual event. They keep true to the event’s motto of “Fun, Fellowship and Hospitality.” Dennis Shrewsbury’s Skymaster T-33, jet painted in the colors of a U.S. Navy TV-1,and Anthony Greco Junior’s wooden electric Avante II highlighted the show alongside more than 1100 other pilots and aircraft. While plenty of scale warbirds attended this show, the real treat in this DVD is the coverage and onboard footage of Bob Komro’s goliath 60% L-4 amphibian. It is awesome. Fascinating aircraft, excellent editing and plenty of different aircraft fill the 100-minute-long DVD.

SKS: SEFF WEEK 2012

Down south at Mac Hodge’s airield in Americus, Georgia, electricpowered aircraft of all shapes and sizes flew at the Southeast Electric Flight Festival (SEFF) during the week of April 23–29. This year’s event even introduced a huge 150 x 600-ft pond for floatplanes. Plus there was a lineup of helicopters, 3D aircraft, sport planes and park flyers. Highlights of the event coverage include footage and interviews of Joe Smith with his 74-in.-wingspan 3D Edge, the noontime warbird gaggle, full-contact combat and Peter Stripol with his first large-scale aircraft, a scratch-built 777 airliner. SKS delivers well-shot footage with editing that condenses plenty of the fun had at SEFF into 100 minutes. It’s a DVD worth watching.

SKS: XFC 2012: Airplanes

The Extreme Flight Championship (XFC) held at the Academy of Model Aeronautics National Flying Site in Muncie, Indiana, is the best 3D/ Freestyle competition for RC pilots in the nation. Participating pilots come from Canada, Puerto Rico and Mexico. They test their piloting skills as well as the capabilities of their aircraft. This DVD focuses on the freestyle competition with excellent footage of Sam Swink with his 40% Ultimate 300, Devin McGrath with his 104-in. Extreme Flight Extra 300 and Seth Arnold’s winning performance with his Extra 300. All flights covered in the DVD are worth watching. The talents of all are well documented by SKS. Excellent editing and camera work are once again assembled into a 98-minute DVD.

SKS: XFC 2012: Helicopters

In addition to the freestyle airplanes performing at this year’s XFC, top helicopter pilots flew their machines for fast-paced routines with precision and skill. Pilots from across the United States, Canada, Puerto Rico and Thailand participated in XFC 2012 for a truly international competition. SKS dedicated this DVD to the helicopter pilots specifically, providing

stunning footage of the incredible talent of Ray Nemovi with his SAB Goblin, 12-year-old XFC first-timer Jacob Gitin piloting the Mikado Logo 600 and champion Nick Maxwell behind the controls of his electricpowered Raptor G4. Professional-quality production complemented the incredible routines flown by the pilots and their machines of XFC 2012, all coming together in an 85-minute DVD.

SKS: IRCHA 2012 Heli Jamboree

At the Academy of Model Aeronautics National Flying Site, the International Radio-Controlled Helicopter Association (IRCHA) hosted their 2012 Heli Jamboree August 15–19. IRCHA’s event is the largest RC helicopter event in the world. This year over 1000 pilots and numerous vendors displayed their latest and greatest. The DVD covers exciting noontime demonstrations, night flights and The One competition and awards ceremony. Quick aerobatics by Ron Thomas Jr. and his green Goblin 700, Jim Spice’s restored and attractive AH-1 Cobra attack helicopter and Stan Kopreski’s large, animated and detailed Bell 47 G3 highlight the DVD, along with other interesting helicopters and their pilots. SKS provides 100 minutes of excellent video coverage of the event and adds an interesting twist to their traditional hosting with interviews done by Pinion Dog of HeliFreak.

Higher Plane FlightPass: XFC ’12

Covering the action of XFC 2012 from the ground and above, Higher Plane Productions provides 135 minutes of HD footage of the best pilots and action at this premiere event. Highlights of the DVD are the night fly, freestyles and a very cool in-cockpit segment that provides a unique point of view following air show pilot Matt Champman during his aerobatics routine. If you find the tight turns and rolls of RC aircraft unbelievable, the footage of Matt tearing up the sky from his cockpit will leave you speechless. RC-SF.COM

BY Wil Byers

Nano CP X Full-On 3D Action in a Nano-Sized Heli

If you are looking for some exciting indoor 3D helicopter action for this season’s indoor flying, you must give this new Nano CP X a look. It is an outstanding performer.

C Pilots everywhere know that the Blade® brand is synonymous with quality and performance. It doesn’t matter if you buy a Blade mCX, a Blade 500 3D or now the exciting, little Blade Nano CP X—you know you are getting a good helicopter that will give you

hours and hours of reliable, fun performance. The new Blade Nano CP X lets you really have some fun 3D action in the confines of your living room, family room, garage, school gymnasium or even outside when the wind conditions allow. This little 85-

The box that your Blade Nano CP X comes in is the perfect carrying and storage case for the model too. All the parts will fit inside, so you’ll be ready to go flying anytime.

RC SPORT FLYER — December 2012

mm heli can do flips, rolls, inverted flight, funnels and pretty much you name it. It is one incredible little machine. What is just way cool about this RC helicopter is that you don’t need to build or assemble anything. It comes out of its kit box ready to fly. Check this out! The new Nano CP

This is what you’ll get with your Nano CP X. It even includes an extra set of blades, two 150-mAh batteries and some AA batteries for the E-flite® charger.

Blade® Nano CP X

I used my JR 11X to control my Nano CP X. You can use any JR or Spektrum radio that is 2.4 GHz and that uses the DSM2 or DSMX transmission protocol.

Once you have the Nano CP X programmed into your transmitter, you are going to be pleasantly surprised at well this little helicopter performs both indoors and outdoors.

You’ll definitely like both the Bind-N-Fly (BNF) or Ready-to-Fly (RTF) versions. You simply pull the heli out of the box, program your transmitter while the battery is charging and get ready to fly.

X tips the scales at 29 grams (28.35 grams in an ounce). It’s the lightest flybarless CP helicopter in its class. Moreover, the Nano CP X comes with Horizon Hobby’s proven AS3X® (Artificial Stabilization—3-aXis) Flybarless System. That means you get a Nano CP X that combines agility with stability.

Features

• AS3X® Flybarless System • Symmetrical 85-mm main rotor blades • 2.1-g linear long-throw cyclic servos • Carbon fiber main shaft • Sleek body with sharp Nano CP X graphics • Includes Spektrum™ DX4e 2.4GHz DSM2®/DSMX® transmitter with four AA batteries • Includes two E-flite® 1S 3.7-V 150mAh 25C Li-Po batteries • Includes DC Li-Po charger with AA batteries • Includes two main blade sets: fastflight main rotor blades (installed) and hi-performance main rotor blades (in box) The Blade logo decorates the canopy. But underneath you’re going to find that the Nano CP X is equipped with AS3X and a durable frame that will let it take a beating and keep flying.

RC-SF.COM

Nose in, this little helicopter means business. This is the lightestweight helicopter in its class at only 29 g ready to fly. In the air it feels like a much bigger heli.

From nose to tail, the Blade Nano CP X is engineered to give you the enjoyment of flying a 3D helicopter, but without the significant cost that you will pay for a larger machine.

RC SPORT FLYER â&#x20AC;&#x201D; December 2012

In Flight

What we found right off is that the Nano CP X is very easy to bind to a JR or Spektrum radio. So, once the battery was charged and placed in the helicopter, we made the connection between it and the electronic speed controller of the helicopter. Then we turned on our JR11X radio. It took only a few seconds for the Nano CP X to bind to the transmitter, and it was ready to fly. The Nano CPS is sensitive in control, so you must set up the dual rates and exponential as called out in the 66-page instruction manual, which is in four languages. We needed to fly our helicopter in our small photography studio to get some flight photos for you. When we first started, the air-conditioning system was running so there was quite a bit of air movement in the room. What we learned right from the start was that this little heli is exceedingly durable. It still worked great after I ran it into myself and the backdrop a couple of times, and after it had some rough landings trying to avoid the photography lights. Then my thinking light came on and I realized how much air

Blade® Nano CP X

What I like about this RC helicopter is that it allows me to practice flying 3D without the huge investment that I would otherwise have to make.

movement there was around the helicopter. Once the airconditioning was turned off things were completely different. I simply applied power and the Nano CP X responded to my commands. I was actually quite amazed that a helicopter this small could feel and fly like it does. Since I’m not a 3D helicopter pilot, what this machine offers me is the chance to practice maneuvers I would not try with a larger helicopter. Between flying it and using my simulator on the computer I’m quite confident that over the next few weeks I’ll finally be able to hover it upside down. Now I can do a loop and a roll, but let me tell you I’m concentrating to do so. Suffice it to say I’m really, really envious of guys like Seth Arnold and others who can put this type All around, this is a very nice little RC heli. You will enjoy hours of fun flying this little bird. It goes together quickly, and replacement parts are inexpensive too.

of helicopter through its paces. You really should check out the videos of the Nano CP X at bladehelis.com. It will show you just what this machine can do in the confines of a living room or kitchen or even outside. I think you will want to see how amazing this little heli is. It’s crazy good!

Debrief

The new Blade Nano CP X is extremely affordable at just $149.99 for the BNF version. Also, it comes in a durable little box that can act as a carrying case. You can just throw the box in the car and drive over to your friend’s house for some 3D action anytime and anywhere. Additionally, you can use your existing JR or Spektrum transmitter

to control your Nano CP X. What I like is that you can bang this little machine around, yet it takes a beating and keeps on flying. And, if you do break a part, the repair parts are very affordable. Finally, with winter heading our way it can be flown indoors to keep your fingers in shape for next summer’s flying season. Need I say, GET ONE!

Specifications Type

Electric Collective Pitch Flybarless Helicopter

Main Rotor Diameter

7.75 in. (197 mm)

Tail Rotor Diameter

1.57 in. (40 mm)

Weight

1.05 oz (29 g)

Length

7.75 in. (197 mm)

Kit/ARF/BNF

BNF

Control System

140 CCPM

Rotor Blade Length

3.35 in. (85 mm)

Experience Level

Intermediate

Environment

Indoor/Outdoor

Assembly Required

Price

$149.99 (BNF)

Distributor Horizon Hobby 4105 Fieldstone Road Champaign, IL 61822 Phone: 217-352-1913 horizonhobby.com bladehelis.com

RC-SF.COM

BY Anthony Richards

DHC-2

Beaver RTF Fly This Immortal Bush Plane Anywhere

uilt to suit far-north pilots in Alaska and Canada in the postwar era of the late 1940s, de Havilland (DH) Canada designed one of the most capable utility aircraft in aviation history. It could do just about anything. This remarkable short takeoff and landing (STOL) aircraft would be given an animal name, as was the tradition of DH. The name would reflect its hard-working characteristics—the Beaver. Initially designed to be a STOLcapable, float, wheel and ski-fitted aircraft with lots of power, the

The FlyZone DHC-2 Beaver has all the scale lines and detailing of the full-scale aircraft.

Beaver was started by de Havilland Canada in late 1946. Since the company was still British controlled, it was given a large wing area to maintain STOL performance and was fitted with the power-limited engines from England. Pratt & Whitney of Canada came forward, however, with a deal to fit the new aircraft with 450-hp Wasp Jr. engines. At the low price they were offering, DH accepted their offer and used their engine. However, they kept the large wing. This gave the Beaver unparalleled STOL performance. Production didn’t take off until DH won a contract to provide the U.S. Army with utility aircraft to replace their Cessna fleet. The Korean War would increase those orders considerably. Soon DH Canada was receiving orders from around the world for their Beaver. The Beaver gave pilots a way to do operations in rough and remote areas of the globe and access With its flaps set to about 20 degrees, our FlyZone Beaver slows down well. You’re going to love how this bird handles. It is a park flyer, but it flies more like a sport flyer.

RC SPORT FLYER — December 2012

Flyzone DHC-2 Beaver RTF places that normally could only be reached by foot or canoe. During its extensive use as a bush plane, many pilots pioneered improvements to the aircraft that were soon adopted as standard for the Beaver. One such company, Kenmore Air of Kenmore, Washington made many significant This is what you’re going to get in the FlyZone DHC-2 You get a Tactic radio, wall charger and car modifications that Beaver kit. FlyZone even throws in a set of floats for charger with your RTF kit. You even get an 11.1the model so you can choose between flying your bush V 1800-mAh 20C LiPo battery with the kit. Once would lead to dozens plane over water or land. your model arrives, you’re ready to fly. of supplemental type certificates (STCs) that were liked by pilots. This gave the Beaver” instead. maintain these old radials, many pilots rebuilt Beavers the name “Kenmore In modern days, the Wasp Jr. and companies are opting to switch engines have long been out of service. to turboprop and piston engine So rather than spend the incredible modifications to keep the aircraft up Check out the cowl detailing. Coming amount of money to rebuild and to date and affordable. at you, you would swear this airplane is the full-scale version of the Beaver. Notice how the elevators are equipped with flow fences.

RC-SF.COM

The model comes with the servos installed. You will need to install the linkages, but that is a quick and easy job. Notice that the Beaver even comes with seats in the cockpit.

Check out the graphic on the tail of the Beaver. This is the kind of detailing you want in a bush plane model.

Model Beaver

Here you get a good look at the profile of this very famous bush plane. You can see why it won the attention of pilots the world over. FlyZone has done a great job on this one.

RC SPORT FLYER — December 2012

The DHC-2 Beaver RTF kit arrives double boxed with a sheet of ruffled cardboard to buffer the boxes. The airplane’s pieces are neatly packed and stored within styrofoam packaging, with the smaller pieces contained in thin cardboard boxes tucked into molded-in recesses in the styrofoam. When you open your Beaver kit box you’ll see that special attention to detail was made to make sure the airplane arrives unharmed. The airplane stands out with its attractive white-on-black scheme, and it comes trimmed with a bold orange stripe down the fuselage and along the leading edge of the wing. The colors remind me of the Kenmore Beavers I used to see coming and going from Lake Union in Seattle, Washington. Included in the kit is a set of decals that add an

Flyzone DHC-2 Beaver RTF

The model comes with Fowler-type flaps. They work fantastic too. You will absolutely love how this model slows down for landings. It delivers short field takeoffs too.

identification number to the fuselage and a tail graphic of a fish, which gives it that true Alaskan bush plane look.

Kit Includes

• Airframe Wings, landing gear, float brackets, wings struts, vertical and horizontal stabilizer, hatch • Hardware Spinner, floats • Motor Flyzone 41-19-850 Brushless Outrunner, 850-kV • Speed Controller Flyzone 40A Brushless ESC • Servos Flyzone Micro • Propeller Flyzone 12 x 6 • Transmitter

While we built our Beaver with a set of fixed landing gear, it also comes with a set of floats. Check us out on YouTube.com at rcsportflyer. We’ll post a video of it flying on floats soon.

Tactic TX600 SLT 2.4-GHz • Receiver Tactic TR624 2.4-GHz • Battery Flyzone 3S 11.1-V 1800-mAh 20C LiPo • Charger Great Planes AC/DC 3S LiPo Balancing

Needed to Complete #1 and #2 Philips screwdriver Non-permanent threadlocker

In Flight

Flyzone nailed the attitude and awe of the de Havilland Beaver with this kit. Everything about how this model flies is like the full-scale DHC2. Just like the STOL aircraft, the

Flyzone Beaver leaped off the ground on its take-off roll. We had the flaps set to about 20 degrees. It tracked straight and true during its ground roll exceptionally well; however, a small amount of right rudder was required, as was a bit of right aileron control. Thanks to the high-wing design, the Flyzone Beaver takes off and lands on grass well. The brushless motor’s power is very good, so the model climbed like a homesick angel. I found its throttle response easy to manage. The elevator’s travel in low rates seemed minimal on the ground. However, in the air the Beaver isn’t lacking in pitch authority. Also, the aileron roll rate is quite good too. You’ll discover that the Flyzone Beaver’s maneuverability is RC-SF.COM

Assembly Assembly is pretty straightforward. The instructions are well written and illustrated to give you the information you need to make installing the parts of your Beaver simple. I would warn you to be cautious when assembling the airframe because the foam is particularly pliable and the factory paint is easily scraped off by tools. Per the instructions, I began my Beaver’s assembly by attaching the landing gear assemblies to the fuselage. The #2 Philips screwdriver is used to screw in the three screws. I screwed all three down tight, but if I were to do it again, I’d leave the rear screw loose so that when adding the wing strut between the gear strut and the fuselage the screw would be easier to remove. There is the option to attach floats instead, but I opted for the fixed gear on our model. The instructions for the floats are also well done, but installing the floats requires a little more time because of the additional braces one must assemble on the model. Once the main gear was installed, I moved to the tail gear and quickly screwed it in place. Again, I tightened both screws down, but I would suggest leaving the forward screw loose. That will let you swing it out of the way when you screw down the horizontal and vertical stabilizers to the fuselage. Once you’ve secured your tail wheel, next comes fastening the pushrod wire to the wheel’s control horn. Make sure to carefully line up the control horns and pushrods so the wheel is perpendicular to the fuselage to ensure your aircraft isn’t going to try to turn itself in one direction on the ground. Next I assembled the vertical and horizontal stabilizers (stabs). A pair of smaller vertical stabs is installed between the far end of the horizontal stab and the elevators. This is really easy to do, and the only trouble you should have is keeping those elevators out of your way while you screw down the vertical stabs. Having finished the horizontal stab, I began the process of mounting the horizontal stab to the fuselage. Before I could key the stab into the fuselage, I had to connect the elevator control horn to the pushrod that was in the fuselage. Once I had the linkage aligned and inserted into the control horn, I rotated the horizontal stab upward and forward and slid it right into the fuselage for a tight fit. The vertical stab was then aligned and tightly pushed into the top of the empennage with careful attention to properly aligning the rudder torque rod into the fitting receptacle atop the horizontal stab. Then it was just a matter of inserting the screw into the hole below the tail wheel and fastening the surfaces together. It was then time to connect the wings to the fuselage. Four wing clips are

fastened to the top of the fuselage wing mounting plate so the clips are facing upwards with a single 3 x 10-in. screw each. A pair of leads for the aileron servo and wing lights are carefully threaded into the fuselage through the forward opening in front of the mounting plate. It’s a little tricky to work them into the empty space inside the fuselage rather than into the side of the styrofoam, but it is doable. Once the leads are in, the wing is ready to be pushed and clicked into place. The left wing has a pair of tubes that align with the mounting plate holes for the plate to slide in and mount to. The trouble with this installation is getting the flap linkage tube to align to its hole with the other two tubes while keeping the servo leads from popping out. It took me some time, but I figured it out, and it didn’t take much force to pop the wings into the clips. Another tricky part is fitting the linkage into the flap’s servo clevis once the wing is mounted. Both sets of flap linkages will share the same servo, so fitting them to the clevis simply requires the clevis screw to be loosened to make room for both to be threaded through and then retightened to keep them in place. Pay close attention to the position the servo is in when mounting the linkages to the clevis so as not to have one flap deployed more than the other or in case the servo has moved to full flaps down during installation and the linkages are fitted for flaps up. Wings struts are next, and they’re pretty darned easy to do. Just mount the angled bottom end of the strut to the gear base like I mentioned before and then mount the top end to the wing. Pretty easy stuff, but the only thing to be careful of is that those screws seem to strip easily. When I was screwing mine down, the Philips pattern was stripped well before the screw was fully mounted, and I had to use a flathead screwdriver to finish the job. Flatheads have a tendency to slip and slide when fastening a screw, and sure enough mine slipped a bit and went right into the wing. So just be prepared just in case you come across the same trouble when building your kit. Finally it’s time to mount the propeller and spinner to the motor. Just as with most brushless motors, the propeller mounts to the motor shaft and is secured by tightening the nut down tight. Once done, the spinner is installed quickly by mounting it to the front of the prop with two screws tightened down. Binding takes no effort, as the receiver and transmitter communicate nearly from the moment the battery leads are hooked up. With that, you’re ready to hook up your servo leads to the channel ports and prepare for heading out to the field for a fun fly. Control Throws High Rate (Up/Down) Low Rate (Up/Down) Ailerons

1/2 in.

3/8 in.

Elevator

7/16 in.

5/16 in.

Rudder

1-1/4 in.

7/8 in.

Flaps

7/16 in.

No low rate

I’ve dropped the flaps and slowed the airplane down for a touch-and-go landing. It slows extremely well, and control response remains good even at slow airspeeds.

RC SPORT FLYER — December 2012

Flyzone DHC-2 Beaver RTF outstanding. The aircraft can turn hard, roll, loop and even fly inverted. You’ll need plenty of down elevator control to fly it inverted though. One nice plus is that the Beaver does not stall easily. I account this to the thick airfoil the Beaver The roll rate of the Beaver is superb because of the While this is no 3D machine, you can certainly do uses, which is just model’s generously sized ailerons. You will be pleased some mild aerobatics with it. It will fly upside down how de Havilland did with its stall-resistant wing too. You can really slow it too, but you must add a considerable amount of down down and make tight turns. elevator control to maintain level flight. it with the full-scale Beaver too. The flaps really bring out this airplane’s historic are lots of fun to do too, especially character. When deployed, you will with the flaps down. Then when you feel the airplane slow way down, even hit the “gas” again, the Beaver climbs when the model’s nose is lowered out like its full-scale, radial-enginefor approach. Deploying full flaps powered big brother. and cutting power for dives leaves no worry for overspeed, yet you debrief still have plenty of control—you’ll This is a model you’ll want to want to use the large rudder to yaw have in your hangar if you are looking the airplane in the direction you for lots of fun park flying or easy want it to go though. It is fun to flying at your RC airfield. It has get the model high, pull the throttle everything going for it—affordability, back, drop the flaps and do steep ease of assembly, plenty of power, approaches to landing. maneuverability and delightful flying Landings are plain fun! At full flaps, characteristics. Priced at just $299.97 and with about 10-percent throttle for the ready-to-fly version, it’s the applied, the Beaver nearly glides to perfect chance to fly the legendary the ground. Touch-and-go landings DHC-2.

Specifications Wingspan

59.5 in. (1510 mm)

Wing Area

430 in.2 (27.7 dm2)

Wing Loading

16 oz/ft2 (49 g/dm2)

Weight

3–3.25 lb (1360–1470 g)

Length

38.5 in. (980 mm)

Servos

Flyzone Micro

Propeller

Flyzone 12 x 6

Motor

Flyzone 41-19-850 brushless outrunner, 850-kV

Speed Controller

Flyzone 40-amp brushless ESC

Transmitter

Tactic TX600 SLT 2.4-GHz

Receiver

Tactic TR624 2.4-GHz

Battery

Flyzone 3S 11.1-V 1800mAh 20C LiPo

Charger

Great Planes AC/DC 3S LiPo Balancing

Price

$299.97 (towerhobbies.com)

Take a look at this shot! The airplane above the Beaver is a full-scale Cessna that was leaving the area. It was about 3000 ft above my DHC-2 Beaver.

Distributor Great Planes P.O. Box 9021 Champaign, IL 61821 Phone: 800-637-7660 Greatplanes.com

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