RC Sport Flyer July 2013 (Vol 18-07)

TOP GUN 2013 REPORT

World’s Most In-Depth RC Aircraft Magazine

AEROBATICS

PART 4 PG 58

F9F COUGAR

PLAN INSIDE

SOLIUS

E-POWERED GLIDER

Takes Soaring to a New Level

PLUS

• 4-into-1 Wiring • Tx Cases • Transmitter Tray • PVC Hangers • Corsair Warbird

Like

JULY 2013

@

USA & CANADA $6.49

RC-SF.COM

Genuine Genius Spektrum AR400 and AR610 Spektrum™ AR400 and AR610 receivers are ingenious combinations of value and sophistication. Both give you the full benefits of genuine DSMX® technology, plus the long range signal clarity of an active amplified antenna, for $49.99 or less. And because they’re original Spektrum equipment, they come with the unbeatable service and support of Horizon Hobby – something no one can imitate.

Don’t risk flying with fakes. When it comes to real value, the smart money is always on genuine Spektrum technology.

Go to spektrumrc.com right now to learn more about both of these receivers and to find a Spektrum retailer near you.

9 $49.9

9 9 .

9 2 $

VISIT Your Local Retailer

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CALL

horizonhobby.com

1.800.338.4639

©2013 Horizon Hobby, Inc. DSMX, Serious Fun and the Horizon Hobby logo are registered trademarks of Horizon Hobby, Inc. The Spektrum trademark is used with permission of Bachmann Industries, Inc. 41197

SERIOUS FUN.®

Today’s helis and planes need a

BiG @$$ BeC inTRodUCinG

Talon 90 esC BEC: 20 amp peak with 9 amps continuous output.

ESC: 6S max input. 90 amp ESC. Applications: Ideal for powering motor and servos in 500, 550 and sport 600 helis, and 6S aerobatic ships too.

Full Castle programmable function set.* NOW SHIPPING!

Scan for more info on Talon ESCs

*Castle USB Link sold separately.

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EMS Servo Extentions, Y Harness, Dual Extentions, DCS and Standard Switchs, Connectors, Connector Safty Locks, and more with Heavy guage wire and gold connectors DESCRIPTION PRICE PART# DESCRIPTION PRICE PART#

ESPRIT l e d o m www.ESPRITMODEL.com

(1) 321-729-4287

PG 30

DEPARTMENTS

10 12 96 97

LEADING EDGE HOT PRODUCTS ADVERTISER INDEX MYSTERY AIRPLANE

PLAN

50 EVENT

22

TOP GUN 2013 Take a close-up look at three of Rob’s Top Gun Favorites from this year’s mega event.

By Rob Caso

GRUMMAN F9F Check out this fun little, profile foamy EDF jet fighter that is inexpensive to build.

By Dick Sarpolus

PG 68

BUILD

30

38

44

6

BUILD AN ASK-18 PART 3 This article shows you the steps for installing e-powered spoilers.

By Gene Cope SPACE WALKER WINGS PART 4 Part 4 of this build series details how to finish wing tips and ready the wing for covering.

By Jeff Troy FAVORITES Rob takes you into his shop to show you some of his favorite building materials and items.

By Rob Caso RC SPORT FLYER — JULY 2013

PG 80 PG 44

Picking the right building materials can make building models easier and more fun.

HOW TO

58

64

68

AEROBATICS PART 4 Learn how you should set up your airplane and test it to ready it for full-on 3D.

By Daniel Holman AIRPLANE HANGERS See how to make ceiling hangers that will get your airplane out of harms way.

By James VanWinkle TX TRAYS Read this how-to article to see if using a transmitter tray may help your RC piloting.

By Wil Byers

JULY 2013

72

76

FEATURE 4-INTO-1 WIRING Discover how quick wiring harnesses are to make and how they’ll clean up your model.

By Wil Byers TX CASE Take a look at how buying and using a transmitter case can give you better control of your model.

By Wil Byers

80

CORSAIR WARBIRD This bent-wing bird may be the perfect place for you to get into warbirds. See why.

By Wil Byers

REVIEW

90

MULTIPLEX SOLIUS Take this limited motor run glider for a flight and you’ll realize just how much fun soaring is to do.

By Wil Byers

PG 22 PG 90

Dave Wigley’s Beaufighter earned him highest static and flight scores. See our Top Gun report for more.

Multiplex’s new Solius LMR glider takes soaring to whole new level. See how and why.

FOLLOW US ON TWITTER @RCSPORTFLYER

RC-SF.COM

7

SUBSCRIBE @ RC-SF.COM FOR ONLY $24.95

Editor in Chief:

Wil Byers

Assistant Editors:

Caroline Minard Bess Byers, John Likakis, Asa Clinton

Art Director:

Zhe Meng

Photography:

Wil Byers Bess Byers

Graphic Designers:

Zhe Meng Bess Byers Shi Yuang

Webmaster Contact:

Chang Liang

Office Manager/Circulation:

Ruixia Chen

Office Assistant:

YinZi Cui

Circulation:

Mike Werner

Marketing:

Wil Byers, Ruixia Chen ads@rc-sf.com

web@kionapublishing.com support@kionapublishing.com

Contributing Editors: Don Bailey, Rob Caso, Gene Cope, Daniel Holman, Mike Hoffmeister, Richard Kuns, Bob McGowan, Joe Nave, Vincenzo Pedrelli, Steve Rojecki, Gary Ritchie, Mike Shellim, Jerry Smith, Jeff Troy, James VanWinkle RC Sport Flyer (ISSN: 1941-3467) is published monthly for $24.95 per year by Kiona Publishing, Inc., P.O. Box 4250, W. Richland, WA 99353-4004. Periodicals postage paid at Richland, WA and additional mailing offices.

POSTMASTER: Send address changes to RC Sport Flyer, P.O. Box 4250, W. Richland, WA 99353-4004.

Office: (509) 967-0831 Hours: M–Th 8-4, Closed Fri, Sat & Sun. Subscriptions: kionasubscribe.com Toll Free (Orders Only) (866) 967-0831 Editor/Ads/Design: (509) 967-0832 E-mail: subscriptions@kionapublishing.com Fax Number: (509) 967-2400 Ask for RC Sport Flyer at your local hobby shop!

Hobby Shop Orders (800) 558-1544 ext. 818 www.retailers.kalmbach.com

Hobby Shop distribution by: Kalmbach Publishing Co. (800) 558-1544 ext. 818 Subscriptions: USA and possessions and Canada: $24.95 per year, $54.95 overseas.

Washington residents add 8.3% sales tax. Single copies $6.49 plus $3.50 S&H U.S. All payments must be in U.S. funds. Visa, Mastercard, Amex, and Discover accepted. Send to: RC Sport Flyer – Circulation, P.O. Box 4250, W. Richland, WA 99353-4004.

Please allow eight weeks for change of address.

Contributions: Articles and photographs are welcome, but cannot be considered unless guaranteed exclusive. When requested we will endeavor to return all materials in good condition if accompanied by return postage. RC Sport Flyer assumes no responsibility for loss of or damage to editorial contributions received. Any material accepted is subject to possible revision at the discretion of the publisher. Publisher assumes no responsibility for accuracy of content. Opinions of contributing authors do not necessarily reflect those of the publisher.

RC Sport Flyer will retain author’s rights, title to and interest in the editorial contributions as described above in both print and electronic media unless prior arrangement has been made in writing. Payment for editorial materials will be made at our current rate. Submission of editorial material to RC Sport Flyer expresses a warranty by the author that such material is in no way an infringement upon the rights of others. The contents of this magazine may not be reprinted traditionally or electronically without permission of the publisher.

All rights reserved.

RC SPORT FLYER — JULY 2013

graphics@rc-sf.com

graphics@rc-sf.com

Copyright ©2013

8

wil@rc-sf.com

Printed in the USA

It’s All About Choices!

And O.S. has the engine that is THE choice for your airplane It is all about choice, and smart flyers choose O.S. In quality, O.S. Engines are second to none and their performance blows the competition away. The GT22, GT33 and GT60 all develop 10-15% more power than comparably sized competitive engines. They aren’t just powerful, though, they are also responsive. All three engines have amazing throttle response that is smooth and fast enough for even the most demanding 3D flying.

Add to their power and performance the amazing additional features that all three GT engines have, like custom Walbro carburetors and high quality mufflers, and O.S. Engines are the choice for all discerning pilots. © 2013 Hobbico, Inc. 3071394

®

osengines.com/119y Exclusive distributor for O.S. Engine.

WIL BYERS

T

his month I want to share some things that have been happening in the RC Sport Flyer publishing world. I’m hopeful that these will add to your modeling experience, relaxation and fun.

RC Radio Network If you have not yet tuned into the RC Radio Network you really must. It will fill your day with excellent music and your evenings with some fun programming. To do so simply point your browser at rcradionetwork.com.

Cliff Whitney, along with his excellent staff, put on a truly entertaining show. The show includes a podcast that happens every first and third Tuesday of each month. I recommend you tune into the RC Radio Network if want to have an inside look at what is happening in the hobby from coast to coast. You’ll certainly enjoy the music! By the way, Cliff is the the owner/operator of Atlanta Hobby (atlantahobby.com), which is to say he knows the hobby, the products and the people well.

RC-SF Website You may want to point your browser at our website on a regular basis too. The URL link is at the bottom of this page. At the site, we share with you some interesting information that gets regularly shared with us. Also, we’ll be doing some free, giveaway offerings from time to time, so you need to register at the site to be entered to win. Importantly, much of the information that we post on our site is in blogging form, so you can interact directly with me and our contributing editors, which will give you much more in-depth insights into their expertise.

RC-SF Facebook If you are a Facebook fan you can follow us there too. Our Facebook username is simply rcsportflyer. Again, we try to post content there on a regular basis, although with Facebook’s content typically only having a very short lifespan, and because posting there requires time away from delivering hardcopy, we don’t post there as often as we might otherwise.

Still, we do try to share some of our photos and overflow content at facebook on a regular basis. Besides, it is stupid fun to let you social voyeurs in on what we’re doing in the model workshop.

RC-SF YouTube YouTube.com is a place where we will post more content in the future, but the reality is that we are not videographers at this point in time. Rather, we are publishers of hardcopy content. That is to say, if we’re going to publish videos on YouTube we want to do a good job of editing them and making them fun, entertaining and educational to watch. Consequently, we’re going to be adding a new member to our staff, whose job will be to create video content that will tell the stories like they deserve to be told.

Until then, you need to know that Mike Hoffmeister does an excellent job of documenting his motor tests via video. He publishes them on YouTube under the username rcsportflyer.

As I said, in the future, we’ll publish more videos on YouTube, but not before learning the fundamentals of video production so that we can give you the best quality and content possible. It is just how we do business.

RC-SF PDF files Going forward from this issue we will publish our back issues as PDF files on our website. However, please know that we will only do so for those issues that are at least six months old. Note that RC Sport Flyer is a newsstand, hobby shop and subscriber distributed title. That is to say that it has a shelf life for our distributors, which must be honored. Additionally, paying subscribers get preference over those individuals who don’t. At any rate, if you missed an issue and you want to see what you’ve missed, point your browser at rc-sf.com/pdfs.

RC-SF Advertisers As a reader of RC Sport Flyer, you read the advertisements that are placed in these pages. So, why not let the advertisers know that you saw their ads in our magazine. It will help them know who our readers are and their demographic. It will also help us pay for the new features that I’ve outlined in this column. Just say, “I saw your product in the pages of RC Sport Flyer magazine.” It’s that easy, and it will make a difference in the future content we want to publish—both hardcopy and digital.

RC-SF Friends Finally, we’re doing a promotion to get more people reading RC Sport Flyer. It involves you helping us make it happen. Here is how it will work: As a subscriber, you get to send us three of your friends names and addresses, plus their e-mail contact information. We’re going to send them a sample copy of RC Sport Flyer magazine absolutely free. If they like the magazine and subscribe, they will be able to have three of their friends receive the magazine. It can hopefully go exponential.

The bottom line is that we’re passionate about this hobby—not matter your special area of interest. We therefore want to share it with as many readers as possible. So, give your friends an chance to discover RC Sport Flyer’s content.

10

RC SPORT FLYER — JULY 2013

Everlasting Evergreen

Constructed precisely from top quality balsa and plywood.

Scaled landing gear and tail wheel assembly.

Detachable main wing and stabilizer.

Pre-painted fiberglass cowling.

Actual Piper Pawnee, Piper J-3 Cub and Paulistinha P-56

50cc Piper J-3 Cub

50cc Paulistinha P-56

Code No.A037

Code No.GA065

Piper PA-25 Pawnee Code No.A318

Specifications and prices are subject to change without notice.

Pilot Statue Included Size : 110 mm, Color : (Black / Green ) PC1001110A

Models ARF

The World Models

SPECIFICATIONS

The Wings Maker

Wing Span

Wing area

Flying Weight

Fuselage Length

Engine

Radio

Servo

Price

50cc Piper Cub (A037)

118 in / 3000 mm

1990 sq in / 128 sq dm

18.5 lb / 8450 g

75 in / 1900 mm

50cc Gasoline engine

4 channels

high torque servo x 6

Piper PA-25 Pawnee (A318)

108 in / 2740 mm

1302 sq in / 84 sq dm

20.5 lb / 9300 g

68.5 in / 1740 mm

50cc Gasoline engine

5 channels

high torque servo x 8

50cc Paulistinha P-56 (GA065)

118 in / 3000 mm

1990 sq in / 128 sq dm

18.5 lb / 8450 g

75 in / 1900 mm

50cc Gasoline engine

4 channels

high torque servo x 6

$ 54999 $ 64999 $ 54999

World Models Coverings

2M roll starting from $8.49

2M roll starting from $8.99

Industrial package available

Optional accessories ( 6 sizes )

Recommended AT3120017 (17”) USD $8.

AT3120020 (20”) USD $8.

AT3120026 (26’) USD $9.

The Wings Maker’s products are distributed by

AT3120028 (28”) USD $9.

AirBorne Models in US Models

4749-K, Bennett Drive, Livermore, CA 94551 sales@airborne-models.com www.airborne-models.com For your nearest dealer, call (925) 371 0922 Fax : (925) 371 0923

World wide distributor

Radar Company Limited

www.radarrc.com

info @ radarrc.com

AT3120020 (32”) USD $10.

Propeller Covers

protect your blades from AT3120026 (34”) USD $10. transportation and storage. Different sizes are available.

The World Models

Manufacturing Co., Ltd. www.theworldmodels.com

The Wings Maker

www.thewingsmaker.com

MXS-R

Aerobeez 365 Cloverleaf Dr. Suite C Baldwin Park, CA 91706 Phone: 877-813-5337 support@aerobeez.com

T

he MXS-R, featured in the Red Bull Air Racing Series, is yet another true classic. It is a newer model with better aerodynamics.

It has won many awards in the Red Bull Air Racing Series. We have put great effort into our design and built a 26-percent-scale model of this amazing aircraft to share its great flight

characteristics of speed, precision, and agility.

This MXS-R utilizes a 30–35-cc gas engine for true, realistic aerobatic flights. With its lightweight, improved aerodynamic design, combined with a DLE 30-cc power plant, it is bound to excel in 3D performance.

This MXS-R 26-percent-scale model comes with many new upgrades and is built to last.

It allows you to reach your full potential in extreme 3D flights.

Specifications Wingspan

75 in.

Length

69 in.

Wing area

888 in.2

RTF weight

9.2–10.6 lb

MSRP

$339

A 30-cc Bravata Floats

AeroWorks 4903 Nome Street Denver, CO 80239 Phone: 303-371-4222 aero-works.net

eroworks wooden floats with reinforced fiberglass bottom are especially designed to fit the Aeroworks 30-cc Bravata, and make for quick and easy installation to get you from pavement to water in just a few minutes.

Floatscan be easily adapted to fit a variety of larger-scale models.

Featuring • Strong, durable, wooden construction w/ reinforced fiberglass bottom • Complete instruction manual • Complete SAE hardware included • Internal, water-rudder servo with sealed top hatch • Spring-loaded, dual-water rudders • Custom, two-tone Bravata paint scheme

12

RC SPORT FLYER — JULY 2013

Specifications Length

56 in.

Width

32 in.

Tip to step

27.5 in.

Weight w/ servos

80 oz

Model weight

18–25 lb

HOT PRODUCTS

30-cc Bravata

AeroWorks 4903 Nome Street Denver, CO 80239 Phone: 303-371-4222 aero-works.net

S

pend your weekends reliving the golden age of flight with the new Aeroworks 30cc Bravata ARF QB. With its classic lines and vintage covering scheme, the 30-cc Bravata resembles many of the classic airplanes from the 1920’s and 30’s. The classic, two-tone Ultracote™ covering schemes will make the Bravata a welcome addition at any airfield.

The Bravata’s flight characteristics provide stable flight for the novice pilot and spirited aerobatic flight for the experienced pilot.

Featuring a two-piece wing with removable, pre-mounted struts, the Bravata is easy to transport in most vehicles. The wing also features flaps that will greatly shorten takeoff and landing lengths. The Bravata also features pre-hinged control surfaces as well as pre-mounted cowling, wheel pants, and

SebArt Avanti S Jet ARF

Thunder Power RC 4720 W. University Ave Las Vegas, NV 89103 702-228-8883 sebsrtrc.com thunderpowerrc.com

D

esigned by Sebastiano Silvestri to bring together pattern aerobatics and jet flight characteristics, the Avanti S is the new unlimited sport aerobatic jet.

It was designed for Jet beginners, the new FAI F3S class of competition and for the 3D FOLLOW US ON TWITTER @RCSPORTFLYER

front windshield. A complete, high-quality, hardware package featuring aluminum control horns, ball links and turnbuckle pushrods is also included. The 7075 aluminum landing gear is designed to be strong and lightweight.

For those with access to large lakes, the Bravata comes float ready. A high-quality, vinyl decal set has also been included. The 30-cc Bravata can be assembled in as little as eight to 10 hours.

The 30-cc Bravata has been designed around many popular 28–35-cc gas engines.

Mounting templates and air inlet templates have been provided. When combined with the DLE 30, the Aeroworks Bravata is an incredible performer; the cowling has been designed to enclose the DLE 30 engine. Even a hot-airexhaust hatch has been designed into the bottom of the airplane to complete its scale appearance!

Featuring • Strong, lightweight construction • Complete manual • Flat, vintage-looking tail • Two-piece wing w/ ailerons and flaps • Hidden aileron and flap servos • Aluminum wing tube

Specifications Wingspan

112 in.

Wing area

1725 in.2

Length

(rudder to spinner) 82 in.

Weight

14–16 lb

Engine

30-cc gas

Radio

5 channels min

• Strong 7075 aluminum landing gear • Strong and lightweight tail wheel • Complete, high-quality SAE hardware package Included • Professionally covered in Ultracote • Pre-glued, pin-style hinges • Pre-mounted fiberglass cowl and wheel pants • Pre-marked firewall for DLE30-cc gas engine • Enclosed engine w/ pre-installed, hot-exit air baffle • Extra Ultracote covering provided for small repairs • Vinyl decal set included • Assembly time eight to 10 hours • Optional custom cockpit available • Optional float package available

unlimited flight experience. The construction is meticulous with the Hi-Tech composite fuselage painted outside the mold and the wings and stabilizers are balsa covered with Oracover. The pneumatic aluminum landing gear and doors are included and there is an optional thrust vectoring system available.

Experience the new unlimited sport aerobatic jet available only through SebArt. #SEBA200

$2,749.99-$3,959.99

RC-SF.COM

13

Align 800MX Motor

Align USA 3626 Briggeman Drive Los Alamitos, CA 90720 Phone: 562-598-4700 align.com.tw

A

lign is pleased to announce the new 800MX 440-Kv motor.

Compared with the 800MX 470-Kv motor, the 800MX 440-Kv motor smooths out the flight performance of the previous 470-Kv motor as proven during testing. This newly released motor is more powerful, efficient and consistent, which is suitable for F3Ctype flights. It supports precise and smooth power output to meet firmly controlled performances.

This motor is designed with both high-

JR® Vibe™ SG E12 Hiroki Ito Edition

Horizon Hobby, Inc. 4105 Fieldstone Rd. Champaign, IL 61822 (217) 352-1913 jrhelis.com horizonhobby.com

T

he JR Vibe SG E12 has been the flagship 3D machine in the JR helicopter line. Designed around a reputation for quality and built for the pilot who wants the ultimate in extreme 3D flight, JR revisited the drawing board.

Not only would this new edition reflect the needs of the advanced pilots focused on an electric-powered machine, it will incorporate innovation in efficiency and strength. To assure that goal, World F3C Champion Hiroki Ito brought to the new E12 project significant improvements into a hard-core 3D helicopter.

Some of the improvements in the new JR

14

RC SPORT FLYER — JULY 2013

quality construction and super-stunning appearance. The 800MX 440-Kv can surely satisfy the needs of even the most demanding

enthusiasts who are interested in smooth and reliable helicopter operation as well as top flight performances.

Vibe SG E12 Hiroki Ito Edition (SPO) include a simpler frame design that’s not only lighter weight, but also stronger. An all-new main gear that’s machined from a high-strength polymer material is 6 mm thicker with helical teeth for superior strength and quieter operation. Built-in alignment pin locations make it simple to set up the helicopter perfectly.

• Available with or without JR TAGS-01 flybarless control

Features • Main gear thickness has been increased • Stronger, lighter weight frame w/ minimized parts count • Shorter mechanics for quicker control response • Smaller head block with rigid dampening • Metal tail blade grips for greater precision • Carbon-tube pushrod for better tail-rotor authority • Custom Hiroki Ito factory trim scheme and high-gloss finish • Bottom-mounted battery location

Specifications Completion level

Kit

Type

700-class, electric, collective-pitch flybarless

Length

53.5 in. (1359 mm)

Width

7.17 in. (182 mm)

Height

16 in. (406 mm)

Main rotor diameter

62.2 in. (1580 mm) with 710-mm blades

Tail rotor diameter

11.3 in. (288 mm)

Main blades

680–720 mm

Pinion size

9-tooth

Tail blades

105 mm

Weight

7.72 lb w/o main rotor blades and battery

Gear ratio

10.3:1:4.65

Motor

520 Kv

Battery

12S 5000-mAh LiPo

ESC

100-amp min

Tail drive

Torque tube

Swashplate

120 degree

Canopy

Factory-finished fiberglass

JRP988324

$999.99

HOT PRODUCTS

Blade 550 X Pro

B Horizon Hobby, Inc. 4105 Fieldstone Rd. Champaign, IL 61822 (217) 352-1913 bladehelis.com horizonhobby.com

ecause the Blade 550 X helicopters comes in kit form, it doesn’t include some of the components that usually come with a factoryassembled Blade helicopter. Depending on which kit version you choose, you will need to provide some or all of the following: • 6-channel-plus transmitter w/ helicopter programming

Specifications Main rotor diameter

49 in. (1245 mm)

Tail rotor diameter

9.45 in (240 mm)

Height

14.8 in. (375 mm)

Length

44.5 in. (1130 mm)

Flying weight

7.39–7.72 lb (3.35–3.50 kg)

• 6-channel-plus receiver (included w/ combo) • 6S 5000–6000-mAh LiPo battery • 6S LiPo battery charger • Tools for assembly • Flybarless control system (included w/ combo) • 3 cyclic servos (included w/ combo) • 1 tail servo (included w/ combo) BLH5525 Blade 550 X Pro Series Kit $639.99 BLH5525C Blade 550 X Pro Series Combo $999.99

E-flite® Easy-toInstall Electric Spoilers

Horizon Hobby 4105 Fieldstone Rd. Champaign, IL 61822 (217) 352-1913 e-fliterc.com horizonhobby.com

Y

ou don’t have to be a master modeler to add the realism of functioning spoilers to your airplane. The completely self-contained, E-flite, electric-powered spoiler system requires no air tank, complex linkages or extra servo. Best of all they simply bolt into place, and are operated by way of a spare receiver channel. For the hot new E-flite Blanik L-13 4.2-m ARF sailplane (EFL4910), these spoilers are a direct fit and a highly recommended option for pilots who want a scale glider that can reach its full aerobatic potential.

In aviation, a spoiler is a device intended to provide glide-path control. The spoiler mechanisms are mounted flush with the top surface of a wing and can be proportionately extended. When deployed into the airflow, the spoiler creates a carefully controlled stall over the portion of the wing behind it, greatly reducing the lift of that wing section.

Spoilers greatly reduce lift while making only a moderate increase in drag so that you can control the rate of descent and thus achieve a controlled landing to a desired spot.

FOLLOW US ON TWITTER @RCSPORTFLYER

Specifications Key Electric Spoiler Features • Intended for wings in length of 3–4 meters • Plug-N-Play® style electronics • Lightweight aluminum construction • Integrated electric motor with a micro PCB • Built-in, over-current protection • Proportional-scale, scissor-type action • Open and close limit switches These new electric spoilers have a built-in proportional motor that eliminates the need for mechanical linkage and simplifies installation. E-flite spoilers come in right and left configuration, each with a long servo lead and universal servo connector. Both units can be connected with a Y-harness to the receiver or set up on two separate channels for independent control.

Connector

Universal

Voltage

4.8–6.0 V

Current draw idle

0.15–0.22 amps (4.8 V); 0.18–0.24 amps (6.0 V)

Motor type

N20 brushed

Speed

4.8 V (1.0 sec), 6.0 V (0.8 sec)

Blade length

17.32 in. (440 mm)

Overall length

19.10 in. (485 mm)

Installation depth

0.63 in. (16 mm)

Height deployed

1.81 in. (46 mm)

Weight

2.77 oz (78.5 g) each

EFL491009

440-mm $94.99 RC-SF.COM

15

T Evolution® 33cc Gas Engine

Horizon Hobby, Inc. 4105 Fieldstone Rd. Champaign, IL 61822 (217) 352-1913 evolutionengines.com horizonhobby.com

he Evolution 33GX engine is gas powered.

Its compact dimensions allow it to fit anywhere you might use a 1.50- to 2.20-size glow engine. It’s also remarkably lightweight, even with the ignition system and battery.

It provides phenomenal fuel efficiency. This new motor will burn 30 percent less fuel than a comparably sized glow engine, which will lower operating costs 90 percent.

If you enjoy flying the popular, large 30-cc

Features State-of-the-art design Gasoline powered Superb power and performance Proven CM-6-style spark plug Lightweight electronic ignition 2S LiPo-battery-compatible ignition Standard beam mounts and stands-off installation

Displacement

33 cc (1.98 cu. in.)

Bore

1.48 in. (37.5 mm)

Stroke

1.16 in. (29.5 mm)

Fuel

Gas/oil, 25:1 content ratio

Cylinder type

Ringed/steel liner

Weight w/ muffler, ignition

48.8 oz (1384 g)

Crankshaft thread

3/8–24

Rpm range

1,500–9,000

Propeller range

17 x 8–20 x 8

Muffler

Aluminum, inverted, wraparound in-cowl

EVOE15GX

$349.99

class of airplanes, then you’ll find the new Evolution 33GX is the ideal choice. A true powerhouse, the 33GX can provide a very high power-to-weight ratio. Its single propeller nut attachment allows the use of any stock propeller, and the included 2S LiPo-ready, electronic ignition provides easy starts. You can mount the 33GX using either the standard beam-mount method or the included standoffs, so upgrading to the 33GX takes minimal effort. The special in-cowl muffler (included) provides quiet operation and saves space in your model.

Front mounted, Walbro-type carburetor

Glider How-To Instructional Video Downloads

Specifications

Radio Carbon Art Productions Phone: 888-834-2261 radiocarbonart.com

Y

ou can now purchase high-quality, digitaldownload editions of Radio Carbon Art’s best-selling, how-to training videos for RC glider pilots. These professionally produced, training video downloads are about half the cost of the DVD editions and you won’t have to pay shipping or tax either.

Current training and instructional programs available to download are Secrets of Thermal Soaring, High Performance Thermal Soaring, Performance Tuning for Gliders, Radio Programming Clinic, and the 2.4 Radio Clinic. All of Radio Carbon Art’s training and entertainment films will soon be available for downloading so check our website for news of the latest releases.

Each program download is DRM-free, so

16

RC SPORT FLYER — JULY 2013

once downloaded you can play the programs on any smart phone, ipad, computer or other video device without restrictions.

For more program information, preview clips and to purchase any of Radio Carbon Art’s glider-training digital downloads

or DVDs, visit our website today at radiocarbonart.com. All digital downloads and DVDs are fully guaranteed and can be ordered online or by calling our toll-free number: 888834-2261.

Glider Training Program $12.95 to $14.95 ea.

HOT PRODUCTS

New Low-Wing Tucan

Hitec RCD 12115 Paine Street Poway, CA 92064 Phone: 858-748-6948 hitecrcd.com

Features

Specifications

Easygoing, low-wing aircraft, aerobatic capable

Wingspan

51.18 in.

Weight

65.26 oz2

Sturdy fuselage

Length

43.7 in.

Clear canopy w/ superb cockpit

Wing area

496 in.2

Fittings for optional retracts

Wing loading

18.95 oz /ft2

T

he new, sleek, low-wing Tucan makes a great sport trainer and aerobatic flyer, providing endless flying fun. Its stable, well-constructed design delivers superb performance combined with good-natured

Needed

BUILD IT YOURSELF

NEW HS8330SH & HS8334SH

Hitec RCD 12115 Paine Street Poway, CA 92064 Phone: 858-748-6948 hitecrcd.com

Motor

400–500-watt Outrunner

Battery

3S 3200-mAh LiPo

ESC

50–70 amp

Propeller

11 x 5.5

Servos

(4) HS-81, (1) HS-82MG

Receiver

Minima/Maxima/ Optima 6 or Lite

handling. A detailed cockpit, clear canopy, strong undercarriage and stylish decals are just some of the outstanding features that set it apart from other airframes in its class.

With fittings for optional retracts, the Tucan is sophisticated perfection!

O

ur ultra-response, high-voltage HS8330SH and HS-8335SH are premium performance servos that are sold at an affordable price. Engineered with extremely durable steel gears, dual ball bearings and highly efficient coreless motors, these two servos provide the ultimate in reliability.

The HS-8330SH brings quick action to your 500-plus-size helicopters and 1/10-scale vehicles, while the HS-8335SH equips your 35%-scale aircraft and 1/8-scale cars and trucks with powerful torque. As with all Hitec’s HS-8000 series of servos, this economical pair features a 25-tooth, industry-standard, output spline that will fit your model’s control arms.

Specifications 6.0 Volts Model

Speed

HS-8330SH

0.09

HS-8335SH

0.16

FOLLOW US ON TWITTER @RCSPORTFLYER

Torque 139 oz-in.

10 kg-cm 257 oz-in.

18.5 kg-cm

7.4 Volts Speed 0.07 0.13

Torque 181 oz-in.

13 kg-cm 333 oz-in.

24 kg-cm

Part# 38330 38335

Dimensions

Weight

1.57 x 0.78 x 1.46 in.

2.33 oz

40 x 20 x 37 mm

66 g

1.57 x 0.78 x 1.46 in.

2.26 oz

40 x 20 x 37 mm

64 g

RC-SF.COM

17

Jeti Transmitter Safety Locking Switch

Jeti Phasor Motor

Sport 2.35S/E

A Esprit Model 1240 Clearmont St NE, Unit 12 Palm Bay, FL 32905 Phone: 321-729-4287 espritmodel.com

Esprit Model 1240 Clearmont St NE, Unit 12 Palm Bay, FL 32905 Phone: 321-729-4287 espritmodel.com

Esprit Model 1240 Clearmont St NE, Unit 12 Palm Bay, FL 32905 Phone: 321-729-4287 espritmodel.com

void unnecessary accidents with this new switch by Jeti. Designed for your DS-16 or DC-16 transmitter, this switch has the capability to lock. In order to change the switch from position to position you must first lift up the lever then move it either up or down. The Jeti transmitter safety locking switch is a great way to protect your aircraft.

T

he Phasor Race design represents the best combination of high performance and durability. The whole line of Jeti Phasor motors targets mainly professionals and competition FAI F5B, F5F, F5J pilots looking for uncompromised precision and quality. The Jeti motors are made using 20-mm, 4-pole rotors wrapped in Kevlar and designed to withstand up to 70,000 rpm. The stators have been built using our thinnest lamination for the highest possible efficiency in this category of motors.

T

he Sport 2.35S/E is a perfect combination of classic design and modern technology.

This hand-crafted, high-powered, electricpowered thermal glider is great for both sport and competition flying. Composed of a gel-coated fiberglass fuselage, carbon-fiber, leading-edge rod wing, and carbon/balsa built-up tail parts, the Sport is both sturdy and lightweight.

T SebArt Fiat G.91 P.A.N. EDF Jet

SebArt MythoS Pro 2m F3A ARF

Thunder Power RC 4720 W. University Ave Las Vegas, NV 89103 702-228-8883 sebsrtrc.com thunderpowerrc.com

he SebArt Fiat boasts the original Frecce Tricolori trim scheme and features a scale, detailed cockpit with pilot. This 90-mm EDF model comes factory equipped with scale, retractable, electric landing gear, fully operational doors and 11 factory-installed servos. Additional features include scale functions for lighting system, flaps and parachute! Paired with a Thunder Power 70C 5000-mAh 6S battery pack, you will experience maximum flight performance.

#SEBG91-FT $659.99

T Thunder Power RC 4720 W. University Ave Las Vegas, NV 89103 702-228-8883 sebsrtrc.com thunderpowerrc.com

he F3A World Cup 2012 winner, the new Mythos 2m boasts a composite fuselage, balsa wings and stabilizer. It’s designed for bolt-in electric power and features highquality, high-precision and lightweight construction. Competition-level performance made possible by championship-designed SebArt models. Recommended power setup is the Hacker C50-13XL, Hacker MasterSpin 99A Opto, Thunder Power RC 4400-mAh10S PP25 and APC 21x13E propeller. #SEBM140 $2759.99

18

RC SPORT FLYER — JULY 2013

HOT PRODUCTS

New Royal SRS

PowerBox Systems GmbH Ludwig Auer StraBe 5 86609 Donauwörth Germany Phone: 49-906-22-55-9 powerbox-systems.com

P

owerBox Systems has developed a new, high-end product designed to provide functionality and security for the demanding pilot.

The new unit includes triple-axis iGyro as well as the new PowerBus technology, which is destined to introduce fundamental changes in the electronic layout of large-scale models as a whole.

In other respects we have retained the unit’s proven concepts. For example, the new Royal SRS is fully programmable using a menu system, controlled with the SensorSwitch and a blue backlit LCD screen; as usual, all battery-specific and flight-relevant data can be displayed on-screen after each flight. The door sequencer function and the internal iGyro both feature integral set-up assistants.

The new Royal SRS features built-in serial receiver bus systems. The Royal SRS features no fewer than four high-performance voltage regulators, allowing the use of both HV servos and conventional 6-V types. With dual security in mind, each pair of regulators can be set to an output voltage of 5.9 or 7.4 V.

Features Integral iGyro

triple-axis gyro system with headinghold function and set-up assistant

Independent outputs for

2 x ailerons 2 x elevators 2 x rudders

Door sequencer

6 x freely programmable outputs with set-up assistant

PowerBus

Servo-Match function

2 outputs, 16 + 2 channels, compatible with other servo bus systems servo center, endpoints and servo reverse for all 24 outputs

FOLLOW US ON TWITTER @RCSPORTFLYER

The Servo-Match and FailSafe functions have also been expanded: the software now provides adjustment facilities for all 24 outputs individually, covering servo center, travels, fail-safe and hold-mode. Servo reverse is available with a single button-press. Five different radio control systems— Spektrum, Futaba, Multiplex, Hott and Jeti can be bound to the Royal SRS, some providing telemetry output of batteryrelevant data.

The Royal SRS can be updated using the USB adapter, and is therefore equipped to cope with new systems in the pipeline and possible future expansions.

Specifications Operating voltage

4.0 to 9.0 V

Power supply

2 x 5S NiMH/NiCd, 2S LiPo, 2S LiFePo

Current drain, switched on

≈185 mA

Switched off

≈30 µA

Output voltage

5.9 and/or7.4 V, regulated

Max. output current

Peak 4 x 20 amp

Dropout voltage

0.3 V

Servo signal resolution

0.5 µs

Signal repeat rate

9, 12, 15, 18, 21 ms

Screen

LCD 128 x 64 pixels

Servo sockets

24 sockets

Channels

max. 18

Telemetry

Spektrum®, Hott®, M-Link

Measures

136 x 83 x 20 mm

Weight

250 g including screen and switch

Temperature range

-30 to +75C

EMV approval

EN 55014-1:2006

CE approval

2004/108/EG

Royal SRS #4720

$699

Royal SRS #4710

$749

Crashers Series 6

SKS Video Productions 85 Pine Rd Abbottstown, PA 17301 Phone: 800-988-6488 Sksvideo.com

O

nce again we’ve collected footage from the past several years and found the craziest and most bizarre bloopers, blunders and mistakes we managed to capture on video. Join us for the agony of defeat, the misery of modeling mayhem and the hazards of the hobby in this next edition of the crowdpleasing Crasher series—this time in stunning HD! Run time is 46 minutes.

RC-SF.COM

19

Features Evolution® 15-cc Gas RC Engine

Horizon Hobby, Inc. 4105 Fieldstone Rd. Champaign, IL 61822 (217) 352-1913 evolutionengines.com horizonhobby.com

S

ince the release of the Evolution 10GX small-block engine, countless modelers have discovered the benefits of gas power in aircraft formerly dominated by the .40-size glow-power or expensive, 40-class electric power systems. This new gas engine is easy to use, even for beginners.

Evolution brings fuel efficiency and ease of operation in their new 15GX small-block gas engine. It is designed with a standard beam mount and case dimensions that allow it to fit in any model you might use a .61- to .91-size glow engine. It’s also remarkably lightweight, even with the ignition system and battery.

What sets the 15GX apart is its phenomenal fuel efficiency. It burns 30 percent of the fuel as a comparably sized glow engine, which lowers your cost per flight by 90 percent on average.

Evolution® 20-cc Gas RC Engine

Specifications

Lightweight construction

Displacement

15 cc (0.91 cu. in.)

Designed specifically for RC use

Bore

1.09 in. (27.8 mm)

Gasoline fuel

Stroke

0.98 in. (24.9 mm)

Great power and performance

Fuel

Gas/oil, 20:1 content ratio

Cylinder type

Ringed/steel liner

Weight w/ muffler, ignition

31.1 oz (883 g)

Crankshaft thread

5/16-24

Rpm range

1,600–13,000

Propeller range

13 x 7–15 x 6

Muffler

Cast aluminum, torpedo style

EVOE15GX

$249.99

Lightweight electronic ignition 2S LiPo-battery-compatible ignition without a regulator Standard beam-mount installation Low oil content fuel requirement Better fuel economy

S Horizon Hobby, Inc. 4105 Fieldstone Rd. Champaign, IL 61822 (217) 352-1913 evolutionengines.com horizonhobby.com

ince the release of the Evolution smallblock engines, countless modelers have discovered their benefits in .40-size airplanes.

It’s so easy to run that even beginners can run them.

Now Evolution brings small-block, gas-fuel economy and ease of use to modelers with their new Evolution 20GX engine. It’s been

Specifications Displacement

20 cc (1.20 cu in.)

Bore

1.20 in. (30.5 mm)

Stroke

1.10 in. (27.9 mm)

Fuel

Gas/oil 20:1 content ratio

Cylinder type

Ringed/steel liner

Weight w/ muffler, ignition

33.6 oz. (958 g)

Crankshaft thread

5/16-24

Rpm range

1,800–10,000

Propeller range

15 x 6–17 x 8

2S LiPo battery compatible ignition

Muffler

Aluminum, inverted wraparound in-cowl

Standard beam mount installation Low oil content fuel requirement

EVOE15GX

$279.99

Exceptional fuel economy

20

RC SPORT FLYER — JULY 2013

Features Lightweight construction Designed from the ground up Gasoline fuel Great power and performance Lightweight electronic ignition

designed with a standard beam mount and case dimensions so that it will fit models that use a .91- to 1.20-size glow engine.

It’s also remarkably lightweight, even with the ignition system and battery. The 20GX delivers phenomenal fuel efficiency. On average, it burns 30 percent of the fuel than a comparably sized glow engine, so it lowers fuel cost per flight by 90 percent.

HOT PRODUCTS

Mini Crack Yak and XM1812RTR-42 Motor

ICARE / ICARUS 890 ch. D’Anjou, unit 1 Boucherville, QC, J4B 5E4 Canada Phone: 450-449-9094 icare-rc.com

I

CARE is pleased to introduce the new Mini Crack Yak 3D airplane, made by the RC Factory. It’s the perfect match to the new XM1812RTR-42 motor with integrated ESC. The Crack Yak Mini is the most highperformance, 3D and extreme aerobatic small EPP plane on the market! The Mini evolved out of the quest for a small, superhigh-performance plane that could be flown literally anywhere, in any space, yet improve on the over-the-top performance of the original Crack Yak. Through extensive design and testing over the last year, ICARE has honed

in on the exact wing-loading, power-to-weight ratio and developed the new airframe tweaks needed to excel in this smaller size. The result is going to be the most fun plane that you have ever had!

Due to entirely pre-printed EPP components, as well as carbon and spruce reinforcements, it only takes about two evenings to build this very robust and lightweight model. It provides more than 15 minutes of flying time with lithium-polymer batteries.

The kit contains pre-printed and pre-cut EPP components for fuselage, wings, tail plane, wing spar, struts and pushrods, and hardware.

This extremely well-balanced model can be flown extremely slowly and is very robust, capable of incredible flying maneuvers— whether flown indoors or outdoors. No space is too small, no doorframe too tight, no maneuver too crazy!

Specifications Wingspan

600 mm (23.5 in.)

Length

600 mm (23.5 in.)

Wing airfoil

Flat

Weight

80 g (2.8 oz)

Motor

XM1812RTR-42

Receiver

Micro

Servos

Sub-micro (3 servos TS1002)

Battery

2S 260-mAh LiPo

Price

$82.00

APC Competition propellers for the intermediate and

advanced sport flyer as well as the competition community.

Over 400 pitch/diameters available ranging from slow-flyer electric to High performance Giant Scale Racers.

Visit the APC Prop Website for product selection and detailed information on product design and features.

LANDING PRODUCTS All propellers are in stock and overnight delivery is available.

Proudly made in the USA

FOLLOW US ON TWITTER @RCSPORTFLYER

1222 Harter Ave., Woodland, CA 95776 (530) 661-0399 est. 1989 by Mr. Fred Burgdorf

RC-SF.COM

21

BY Rob Caso

TOP GUN 2013

IT’S A SHOWCASE OF THE BEST OF THE BEST

This photo by Scott Keating scottkeating.net

22

RC SPORT FLYER — JULY 2013

TOP GUN 2013

Dave Wigley’s combined highest static and flight scores yielded him both a first in Masters and the Top Gun award.

T

he only thing that was truly easy for me at this year’s Top Gun event was not getting lost and finding the hotel. After that, selecting models to write about just seems to get tougher every year.

As I did last year, I like to focus on a few of my favorite entries so that I can cover these in a certain level of detail, rather than committing the injustice of only writing a sentence or two on everything. Admittedly, I am a bit prejudiced with WWII aircraft being my favorite, followed almost too closely by WWI. Perhaps

FOLLOW US ON TWITTER @RCSPORTFLYER

next year I will also cover the more modern jets in some detail. On second thought…

LOU CETRANGELO’S SPITFIRE MK IX

How can you not like a Spitfire?

I spent quite a bit of time picking over Lou’s 102-in. model, an all-glass kit from Composite ARF. Far from being an ARF, as we have come know them today, such kits take quite a bit of effort to build and fly successfully.

Lou’s handsome Sportsman entry, representing the most beautiful airplane ever built, was in my opinion

the best of the Spitfires at the event. Full of technical construction details, Lou went to great lengths to keep the organic lines of the Spitfire undisturbed, including fully enclosing the engine and avoiding it having visible RC equipment such as pushrods. He designed and machined, both by hand and using CNC equipment, the pair of functional, six-stack exhausts that really look the part. His airplane’s engine cooling is achieved by a complex system of baffles, channels, passages and vents, with the hot air ultimately exiting the model through the wing RC-SF.COM

23

radiators. Lou explained the model’s numerous complexities and building challenges in a most unassuming and nonchalant manner, with me almost turning into a babbling pool of Jello during the process. I talked him into allowing me to do a series of articles on his model for RC Sport Flyer, so stay tuned to this magazine for more details on this great effort.

CRAIGE BRYSON’S GLOSTER GLADIATOR

While he and his model placed seventh overall in the Unlimited class, Craige’s model achieved a welldeserved first in static for that class.

Impeccably detailed and finished, Craige’s 71-in. Wingspan Gladiator was conventionally constructed from blown-up Brian Taylor plans. I looked and looked, but I could find nothing out of place and the model was festooned with interesting details, including opening cockpit doors, pinked rib taping and flat flying wires.

Nothing was missed! It was as if he

Dave Wigley’s magnificent, original-design, 1/5-scale Beaufighter on the “dirty,” doing a wheels and flaps down maneuver.

1

2

1

The 138-in. wingspan Beaufighter was conventionally constructed. Numerous molds were required for making the glass parts—Klass Kote finish!

2

The original Beaufighter was used extensively against ships in the North Atlantic during WWII. Great to see such a rarely modeled aircraft at Top Gun.

3

Dave’s 85-pound “Beau” is about to bend the grass. The pair of DA-100, flat, twin-cylinder engines never missed a beat at the event.

4

“One-Wheel Wigley” left the safety lock in the port gear on this sortie, which actually looked pretty “WWIIish.” Dave landed it safely.

Is that a 109 working its way around to get on your “six” Dave?

Love the pugnacious rocket rails that fit under the wings.

24

RC SPORT FLYER — JULY 2013

3 4

TOP GUN 2013 had used a giant shrinking machine on a real one. Okay, well you may ask why didn’t it take a first overall? It was seriously windy at the event this year, and, being a relatively lightweight model, the Gladiator was fighting a losing battle each time it went up.

Craige, an expert, full-scale aerobatic pilot, even had his Gladiator break an interplane strut on its last sortie. The result was that the judges handed him a series of “goose eggs” for that flight. I would have given Craige a perfect 100 for saving the model, but this is Top Gun and the judging is ruthless. Rather than going back to Australia in frustration, Craige was already noodling about coming back next year with a larger version of the Gladiator. Watch out, guys.

Nearly perfect from every angle, Craige’s Gladiator is finished with acrylic lacquer over Sig “Koverall.”

RICH FEROLDO’S ALBATROS

With me going back in time even further of late with my own model designs, it was difficult for me not to notice all the WWI models

5

A sliver of blue sky accentuates the Gladiator’s brilliant prewar silver finish. A small number courageously defended Malta during WWII.

7

The cockpit doors and latches are functional on Craige’s model. I am going to have to “up my game” with this guy around.

6

Craige Bryson poses with his incredibly detailed, 71-in.-span Gloster Gladiator. This was Craige’s first year at Top Gun.

8

Craige nailed the hue of the Gladiator’s exhaust ring, which formed part of the cowl on the full-scale airplane.

7

8

5

6

The Gladiator was equipped with an unusual arrangement of flaps on both the upper and lower wings.

FOLLOW US ON TWITTER @RCSPORTFLYER

RC-SF.COM

25

9

Is that a 30-mm you’re loading Bob? The 262 jet had the heaviest weight of firepower of any WWII fighter aircraft.

Rich feroldo’s Albatros is modeled

10 after the aircraft flown by the

legnedary WWI ace Staffelfuhrer Lt. Hans Auer.

WWI subjects are notorious for

11 having tons of surface detail, made all the more convincing here by the gorgeous laminated propeller.

The Albatros is accurate right down

12 to the fully undercambered wings.

I think Rich must still disassembling it for the trip home.

Flaps at set partial for takeoff, Bob’s Messerschmitt needed the entire Top Gun grass runway, and then some to get airborne.

9

A quite dramatic shot of Rich Feroldo’s Albatross, made conspicuous by a cloud-studded, threatening WWI sky.

Landing was perhaps the most perilous aspect of piloting a 262 due to the constant threat of poaching U.S. fighters.

10

WWI aircraft were generally not steerable, so Top Gun rules allow ground crew to position such models for their takeoff.

11 12

26

RC SPORT FLYER — JULY 2013

TOP GUN 2013 being flown and shown at the event, especially one as well-appointed as Rich’s 1/3-scale, 118-in. Albatros. He designed and built his Masters entry long before the advent of the larger WWI kit offerings that are available today. Rich was laughing during the interview on this point, noting all the work he could have saved if he had just waited! Quadra powered and with it weighing 35 pounds, Rich indicated that the toughest aspect of the build was applying the fuselage sheeting using scale-like sections of 1/64-in. thick plywood. Taking four years to construct, the model was then completely hand-painted using both nitrate dope and Red Devil paint, of all things. Unlike almost all the other entries, Rich insists on flying the model sans gyro, wryly pointing out that, “They didn’t have those things in WWI.” Right on, Rich!

Counterintuitive to say the least,

Because no spinner was included in the kit, Lou Cetrangelo fabricated one from a two-part mold that yielded a perfectly balanced part for his Spit.

I was hoping to see Lou’s Spitfire

13 the purple and green camouflage

14 escorting his stablemate’s

does the trick, the effect ruined only by the flamboyant nose.

Beaufighter, but Top Gun is all about the business of competition.

13

This Dauntless was the Masters entry of Gwyn Avenell. Notice the huge landing flaps that are deployed on this pass.

FOLLOW US ON TWITTER @RCSPORTFLYER

The Spitfire’s scale and functional

15 exhaust stacks are a focal point of his model—they were TIG welded in aluminum.

14

15

This gorgeous F-86 was fielded by Scott Harris of Tennessee. It was built from a BVM kit and sports an 80-in. wingspan.

RC-SF.COM

27

He was quick to add, however, that the airplane is honest and is relatively easy to fly, as long as the power stays on; lose it, and the Albatros is coming down “in situ.” Nevertheless, Rich flew his airplane well in the windy conditions, which earned him a fifthplace finish in the Masters class—the four contestants besting him being almost household names in the world of high-quality, scale model airplanes and hardware.

BOB RULLIE’S ME-262

Last year, Bob’s Me-262 caught my eye, but he was not able to fly the model due to engine problems. Later in 2012, Bob solved his 262’s engine issues and began flying the aircraft regularly at the major jet meets in the Northeast. Bob noted that while the model is somewhat of a handful during takeoffs from a grass surface, once in the air it is responsive and maneuverable. From my seat, it

flew smoothly and very scale-like.

Moreover, its outline is unmistakable in the sky. I am thrilled that Bob worked out the kinks on this WWII aircraft and even more so that I got to see it fly. That he placed second in Team Scale, arguably the toughest of the Top Gun events, is a testament as to how good this model is—and flies.

Congrats, Bob!

A pair of Composite ARF, all-glass P-47’s were flown in formation during the halftime show as if they were welded together.

Mike Barbee’s “really big” T-34B. It is clean, accurate and well-flown, which gave him the chance to finish first in Expert.

The Royal Air Force Red Hawk was built and flown by Joey Tamez. This is the obligatory gear pass that must be flown for the judges.

Greg Foushi’s Lavochkin LA-7 on the required wheels-down flyby.

He finished in third place in the Pro-Am Prop class.

28

RC SPORT FLYER — JULY 2013

TOP GUN 2013 TOP GUN 2013

STATIC & FLIGHT AWARDS

STATIC AWARDS

Sponsors

Score

Winner

Aircraft

STATIC AWARDS

Sponsors

Masters High Static

ZAP GLUE

98.33

DAVE WIGLEY

BEAUFIGHTER

Best Jet

Exper High Static

FLY RC magazine

97.33

LEE RICE

CORSAIR

Team High Static

Flying Models magazine

99.17

GRAEME MEARS

T-33

Unlimited High Static

Model Airplane News

96.5

CRAIGE BRYSON

Allied Scale Squadron

Best Biplane

SOS INTERNATIONAL

WALT CARNES

STEARMAN

Best Civilian Runner- Up

HOBBICO

STEVE THOMAS

RALLE MORAIN

Best Civilian (Pilots Choice)

FUTABA RADIO

MARVIN ERBESFELD

STINSON

Best Military Runner- Up

SPEKTRUM RADIO

GWYN AVENELL

DAUNTLESS

Best Military (Pilots Choice)

HORIZON HOBBY

DAVE WIGLEY

BEAUFIGHTER

Best WWI

ZAP GLUE

RICH FEROLDI

ALBATROSS

Best Pre WWII

KEMPENSKI HOTELS

CRAIGE BRYSON

GLADIATOR

Best WWII

BOLD PROPS

ROY VAILLANCOURT

Best Post WWII

GOLDFINGER

MARK FRANKEL

FOLLOW US ON TWITTER @RCSPORTFLYER

Score

Winner

Aircraft

ZIROLI PLANS

JORGE ESCALONA

HAWKER HUNTER

Best Pro-Am Pro

RED BULL

BRIAN O’MEARA

P-47

Best Pro-Am Sport

Model Airplane News

GUSTAVO CAMPANA

F-117

Engineering Excellence

DURALITE BATTERIES

DAVE WIGLEY

BEAUFIGHTER

Outstanding Craftsmanship

ZAP GLUE

MIKE SELBY

SAAB J-29

Best Unrestricted Showing

WARBIRDS OVER the ROCKIES

TEAM GRUMMAN

HELLCAT

TOP BUNS

FLY GIRLS

RJ GONZALEZ

Best Gas Performance

EVOLUTION ENGINES

MIKE BARBEE

T-34B

Best Electric Performance

E-FLITE

REI GONZALEZ

F-4 (Amigo)

Best WWII Performance

MIBO JETS

DAVE WIGLEY

BEAUFIGHTER

Best Multi Performance

EZ BALANCER

KYLE GOODWINE

B-17

Best Jet Performance

RAY & ROBIN’S HOBBY CENTER

MITCH BUCKLEY

ME-262

HAWKER TYPHOON

Critic’s Choice Runner-up

FTE

MIKE SELBY

SAAB J-29

T-34B

Critic’s Choice

ZAP GLUE & MODEL AIRPLANE NEWS

DAVE WIGLEY

BEAUFIGHTER

RC-SF.COM

29

BY Gene Cope

ASK-18 PART 3

M

y one-third-scale ASK18 is copied after a 16-meter wingspan ASK-18, designed by Rudolf Kaiser. It was the last glider to be built by the Schleicher factory that used traditional wood and fabric construction methods. It was designed to be rugged and durable, as well as to have docile handling

TOP n BOTTOM SPOILERS INSTALL

characteristics. The ASK-18 wing had an aspect ratio of 19.7 and used a NACA 633-618 airfoil that transitioned to a 633-614 at midspan. It had a glide ratio of 34 to 1, with a sink rate of 122 feet a minute.

The full-scale ASK-18 also employs airbrakes that extend from the top and bottom of the wing. Since I wanted my ASK-18 to emulate the

1

full-scale aircraft as nearly as possible, I installed the new Maxx Products electric-powered spoilers (MX3330) in the wings of my 18. Additionally, I designed the model’s wings such that their airbrakes would extend from the tops and the bottoms.

What I found during this part of the build is that the MPI MX3330 e-powered spoilers made the install

2

Shear webbing is glued to the back of the rear spoiler’s mount spar. It prevents wing flex and distortion when the rib segments are removed.

30

With the spoilers opening from the top and the bottom of the wing, they are very effective at killing lift and slowing airspeed.

RC SPORT FLYER — JULY 2013

The spoilers are shown in their open positions. You must open them to determine the offset required to have the blades open evenly.

ASK-18 PART 3

3

4

Six rib segments were removed from between the front and rear spars to facilitate the Maxx Products e-powered spoiler installation.

5

6

When I finished sawing the ribs out, a little sanding was required to clean up the spoiler bays and ready them for the installations.

quite easy. This is because they eliminate the need for servo bays and their covers—the servos and the linkages that would otherwise be required.

STEP ONE

The first step in the spoilers’ installation, after the construction of the wing frame, was to install shear webbing on the back side of the rear-spoiler mount spar. This rear spar was positioned three quarters of an inch back of the wing’s main spar. This distance was used in order to provide the proper chord-wise spacing for the MPI servos. The shear webbing prevents the wing from flexing at the spoiler locations when the wing rib sections are removed between the spars.

STEP TWO

Note that you must position

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I used a hacksaw blade to cut the rib sections away. Following the edge of the spars provided a good reference for keeping the cuts straight.

Here the upper wing surface is resting flat on the workbench. I placed the spars flush with the work surface to install the top mounting rails.

the spoilers such that when they are open completely they line up vertically with each other as seen from the front. You must determine this alignment before you cut the ribs’ sections out of the wing. Because of the way the spoilers are designed with their drive motors at their root ends, their installation required a 2-1/2-in. offset in their mountings between the top and bottom units. Once that was determined, I was able to set their locations on the wing. I used a three-view drawing from a Martin Simons’ sailplane book (still available from RC Sport Flyer) to determine their positioning on the wings.

Their location was then marked appropriately.

STEP THREE

Six wing-rib sections were then removed between the front wing

spar and rear spoiler spar. I used a hacksaw blade in a hand-held fixture to make the cuts. Note that the spruce spars provided a guide for keeping the cuts straight.

STEP FOUR

After a little sanding, the spoiler openings were ready for mounting their spoilers rails. The rails are made of 1/8- × 1/4-in. balsa.

To mount the upper spoiler in the wing, the wing was placed top down on a flat surface with its spars resting flush to the surface. With the spoiler in position, and flush with the spars, the two mount rails were glued in position on top of the inverted spoiler flange, and to the spars. The spoiler unit was not secured in the wing at this point. This procedure was then repeated for the lower spoiler unit, with the exception that to do so the bottom wing spars must rest on a RC-SF.COM

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1- × 2-in. piece of flat, straight wood.

This wood spacer insures that the spoiler sits flush with the lower spars when the mounting rails get glued in place.

STEP FIVE

After the rails were glued in place, I drilled a hole in the rear shear webbing with a 3/8-in. diameter forstner bit. I turned the bit by hand to cut through the wood. The spoiler’s power leads pass through the hole.

STEP SIX

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8

With the spoiler unit resting in a pre-marked position, and flush with the workbench, the 1/8- × 1/4-in. mounting rails get glued to the upper wing spars. They must fit tight against the bottom spoiler flanges.

After the glue has set, the spoiler unit will be positioned flush with the top of the wing spars.

Note that this is before the top sheeting has been glued into place and the spoiler cap is not yet on either.

10

9 To glue the lower mounting rails in place the wing was elevated on a piece of 1- × 2-in. wood such that the lower spars rest flush on it.

After proper installation of the lower spoiler rails, the lower spoiler will be flush with bottom spars’ surfaces as is shown.

12

11 The spars were marked 1/16-in. from the end of the spoiler blade to provide for the needed clearance of the wing sheeting.

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The spoiler units were then temporarily held in place against their respective spars with tape.

Then I checked their operation. The units were connected to a receiver, and then opened and closed. A servo controller/tester would have been handy for this application. With the

RC SPORT FLYER — JULY 2013

A hole was drilled by hand in the rear inboard shear webbing using a 3/8in. forstner bit. This is for the power leads.

ASK-18 PART 3 spoilers still in the wing, they were opened 3/32 in. above the spar.

This was done to set the clearance between the spoiler blade and the wing skin material as the spoiler travels to open. This distance was

1/16 in. out from the ends of the spoiler’s blade.

You must allow for this distance to prevent an interference between the spoiler’s blade and the wing skin.

A bind in the mechanism could cause

13 With the MPI spoilers connected to a receiver, you must check for proper operation. Here they’re shown in the full, open position.

15 A 3/32- × 1-in. bass wood piece was placed in the spoiler bay during rough sanding of the wing skins to preventing rounding the wood edges.

17 Before installing the servo in the wing, I used a dab of Goop® adhesive to secure the servo connector against loosening.

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the spoiler’s motor to stall, which would result in its failure.

STEP SEVEN

Doing the final install of the MPI, spoiler units must be done after the

14 This photo just shows what the back side the spoiler units look like. Notice how the “dog bones” work to open and close the blades.

16 After sanding, the spoiler well is ready for spoiler installation. Notice how the spoiler rails sit in the well to provide proper clearances.

18 Gap filling cyanoacrylate glue was applied at equal intervals on both sides of the rails before the spoiler unit was fitted into position.

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19

20

Here you see that I’m adding filler strips of 3/32- × 1/4-in. balsa. They get glued in place to cover the spoiler flanges.

The 7/16- × 1/8-in. spoiler cap is beveled at its ends to provide the needed working clearance to prevent the spoiler binding.

21 I used 1/64-in. plywood as spacer strips to center the spoiler caps between the spoiler rail spacer pieces.

Even spacing on the spoiler caps is necessary to prevent binding during operation. Here only profile sand remains to complete the caps.

22

23 Masking tape was used to protect wing sheeting from damage during the rough sanding of the spoiler cap sections.

At this point there is only finish sanding and covering left to do to complete the wings and ready them for covering material.

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RC SPORT FLYER — JULY 2013

24

ASK-18 PART 3

Wil Byers takes a running start to give the ASK18 flying speed while launching at Eagle Butte.

Notice he is holding it just behind the CG point.

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The model gets launched with its nose down at about a five- to ten-degree angle to prevent it from stalling during the launch.

Once in the air, I flew it nose down for about 100 feet to build some airspeed and then it was up, up and away for the ASK-18.

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ASK-18 PART 3 wing’s sheeting is installed.

After the wing sheeting was installed, I used a piece of 3/32- × 1-in. bass wood filler in the spoiler’s bay area. It was used to prevent rounding of the edges of the balsa sheeting during rough sanding of the wings. After sanding, the bass wood filler was removed from the spoiler well. Then the well was ready for the installation of the MPI spoiler units.

Gap-filling cyanoacrylate glue was applied to the mounting rails before the spoiler units were dropped into position. The spoilers were then held tight against the front spar until the glue set. Two 3/32- × 1/4-in. balsa filler strips were glued to the spars to cover the spoiler flanges.

The spoiler caps were then made of 7/16- × 1/8-in. balsa, which was a lamination. The ends of the spoiler caps were beveled to provide the necessary clearances for the spoilers’ operation. The 1/8-in. thick spoiler cap provides plenty of material for sanding the wings’ profiles so as not to leave a flat spot at the spoilers.

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RC SPORT FLYER — JULY 2013

STEP EIGHT

All that’s left to do at this point is the final sanding of the wings, and then to cover them.

I found that installing the spoilers was easy and straightforward.

The units are a bit jerky when very slow transmitter inputs are used. Normal movement, however, is smooth and precise.

The cost of these spoiler units is offset by the cost of buying servos, linkages, etc., which makes them a good buy—especially when you factor in the ease of installation.

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BY Jeff Troy

SPACEWALKER II WING, PART 4

1

T

he Spacewalker II is a quarterscale model of the full-scale airplane flown by the former owners of Sig Manufacturing Company in Montezuma, Iowa. The model spans 84 in. and is intended for two- or four-stroke glow power.

My Spacewalker II will be modified to accept electric power.

If you are a new reader of my “Building Model Airplanes” series, please be aware that their purpose is not to simply follow the instructions and build a collection of airplanes. My intent is to pass along many helpful hints and tips to make building these and any other model airplanes easier, faster, better and more enjoyable.

Whenever the opportunities arise during construction, I will use that step to describe some little bit of 38

RC SPORT FLYER — JULY 2013

information that you may find useful when building your own models.

You may be enlightened by some of my ramblings, or you might feel that they merely echo what you already know. You may even have your own, better way of doing the same thing.

The important point is that you can always learn something from anyone, even if it’s what not to do.

In my previous three installments for RC Sport Flyer, I constructed the right- and left-hand wing panels for the Spacewalker II. The ailerons are constructed, the Lite-Ply tip ribs are mounted and the panels are nearly ready for joining. This installment will take the project up to the point where the fuselage construction must begin.

Installing the Spacewalker’s plastic wingtips can be done after the panels have been joined, but because of

the model’s relatively long wingspan, the job is easier to handle while the panels are independent of one another. Start the installation by fitting the plastic tip over the LitePly tip rib, wiggling it fore and aft until it caps the rib completely. This fitting exercise was also done in the previous installment, so now it’s not much more than a double-check of your work.

The Spacewalker II manual indicates that CA is a good choice for installing the tip. I agree, but I’ll be more specific. Use a slow-setting, thick CA so that you can be assured of ample working time to slide and fit the wingtip before the adhesive begins to set. I chose Bob Smith Industries (BSI) Maxi-Cure, first coating the inside perimeter of the tip because it’s non-porous and the adhesive will set slower because it

SPACEWALKER II WING, PART 4

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3 Fitting the Spacewalker II’s plastic wingtips over the Lite-Ply tip ribs was done in the previous installment, so now you only have to double-check the fit before gluing the wingtips to the wing panels.

If you find any areas that don’t seat correctly, use the sanding bar to get the results you need.

4

Use the slowest-setting CA to attach the wingtips. I chose Bob Smith Industries (BSI) Maxi-Cure to get the maximum available working time. Use an accelerator to “kick” the adhesive after the fit is correctly adjusted.

5 Sand the end of the wing to blend with the shape of the plastic tip. Use the bar sander, and be sure to bridge it over at least two rib bays so you don’t sand any shallows into the tip area. Try to avoid sanding more than 1/4-in. over the plastic tip.

cannot penetrate, then coating the perimeter of the Lite-Ply tip rib.

Working neatly but deliberately before the adhesive can cure, cap the rib once again with the plastic tip.

The fit should be good and require little to no adjusting, so shoot a few shots of BSI Insta-Set accelerator over the seam to hasten the curing process. You can also put a shot or two through the single lightening hole in the end rib, helping to cure the adhesive that can’t be reached from outside of the plastic tip.

Use the bar sander to feather the woodwork into the precise shape of the plastic tip, bridging at least FOLLOW US ON TWITTER @RCSPORTFLYER

Use a lightweight wood filler to correct any gaps or irregularities in the wing-to-tip joint. See the text for a simple and effective way to apply filler. My aeromodeling filler of choice is HobbyLite BalsaColored Filler by Hobbico.

two ribs with the sander to prevent cutting an unwanted angle into the last cap strip. Start with no. 80 or 100 paper, and work down to 150 or 180 for final cleanup.

Regardless of how carefully you’ve worked, you will most likely experience slight imperfections in the tip-to-wing fit. Choose a lightweight model filler to correct any voids. I use HobbyLite Balsa-Colored Filler

by Hobbico, and I’ll show you a pretty slick way of applying it.

Place a glass of water next to the open tub of filler, and park them both near the area of the wing where you want to apply the filler. Dip your

middle finger into the water and wet the wood and plastic where the filler will be applied. Now use your index finger to scoop up a bit of filler and apply it over the wetted area. You’ll find that the water will help the filler spread instead of cake on the surface, and if additional filler is needed, you can continue the two-finger application to glop it on.

Glop? Yes. Neatness isn’t as important here as getting a good coating of filler over the gaps.

When it looks like there is more than enough filler to cover any imperfections, let the material dry for at least six hours, preferably RC-SF.COM

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6

7 This image shows the Spacewalker II’s plastic wingtip installed with the filler sanded smooth. Balsa fillers can be very brittle, especially when they’ve been caked on to repair deep blemishes, so always work slowly with the sanding bar. Don’t use too much pressure: slow and easy does the job better.

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9 Use a generous application of 15-minute epoxy to secure the 90-degree, nylon control horn in each aileron. Don’t spare the adhesive, and be sure the horn is clamped tightly until the adhesive thoroughly cures.

overnight, then use the bar sander to take the material down and blend the wingtip smoothly into the woodwork at the end of the wing.

Work with only gentle pressure to prevent gouging and chunking the filler, starting with no. 100 paper and working your way down to 150 or 220.

The Spacewalker uses the geometry of the aileron horn installation to achieve differential aileron throws. The manual has a diagram that shows the installation, and it’s clearly explained in the text.

40

The model’s aileron horns are mounted in such a manner as to produce differential aileron throw without the aid of computer programming. The horn mounting position is the trick, and I added a thin strip of plywood above the horn position to relieve the pressure on the horn in the aileron’s upward travel.

RC SPORT FLYER — JULY 2013

Several of my early installments explained different types of hinges and their installation. Accurate hinge slots are not that difficult to make when you have the correct tools at hand.

I installed the horns in accordance with the instructions, but I made one simple addition. Before gluing the horn into the structure, I cut a 3/32-in. strip from a sheet of 1/8-in. plywood, and secured it over the plywood horn rib with Insta-Cure+ medium CA. The purpose of this strip is to cap the aileron horn and prevent any undue strain when the servo transmits an upward force to the horn.

Working with the diagrams in the manual, cut a slot in the bottom sheeting of the aileron to accept the

nylon control horn. Mix a generous batch of 15-minute epoxy and apply a liberal coating to the plywood horn rib in the aileron. Also apply a coat of epoxy over the area of the nylon horn where it will contact the rib. Be sure to get the epoxy into the holes in that arm of the horn as well. Press the horn over the rib, passing the open arm through the slot in the lower sheeting, with the other arm seating against that added plywood strip . Clamp the horn in that position until the epoxy is fully cured. This is an important joint, so

SPACEWALKER II WING, PART 4

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11 My Spacewalker hinge slots were cut with a Great Planes Slot Machine Hinge-Slotting Tool, followed by a widening with the large, fork-shaped tool from the Hinge Slotting Kit by Du-Bro Products. Don’t settle for “good enough.” If you have to widen the slots to get a good fit, do it. There should be no bumps or dips to interrupt the graceful, flowing airfoil shape between the wing and the ailerons.

12

Joining the Spacewalker wing panels is easier than you might expect, and it’s mostly because of the fine engineering that went into this Sig kit. Begin by dry-fitting the dihedral braces into the rib slots behind the upper and lower main spars.

13 Dihedral braces too tight? Use the thin edge of the Great Planes Easy-Touch Bar Sander to gently open the ribs slots. The braces should fit snugly, but shouldn’t have to be forced into position.

don’t rush it. Let the adhesive cure undisturbed overnight.

Cut slots in the ailerons for the Sig heavy-duty hinges that come with the kit, four hinges to each aileron.

I started the slots with the Great Planes Slot Machine Hinge Slotting Tool, then widened the slots with the large, forked tool from the DuBro Hinge Slotting Kit. Don’t glue the hinges into the ailerons until after the model has been covered and prepared for paint, but for now, just slip them into the slots in the ailerons. Hold each of the ailerons in FOLLOW US ON TWITTER @RCSPORTFLYER

Trial-fit the two wing panels together with the plywood dihedral braces between them. Adjust the fit as necessary with gentle strokes of the bar sander. The dihedral braces should butt against the second inboard rib of each panel, but the root ribs of the panels must come into full contact with one another from the leading edge to the trailing edge.

its proper position against the trailing edge of the aileron recess in the wing, flopping the open tabs of the hinges over the trailing edge. Mark the locations of the tabs with a soft pencil, then cut the appropriate slots in the recesses.

Fit the hinge tabs into the slots, and check each aileron for free movement with no slop and no binding. If necessary, widen the slots where needed to ensure that the tops of the ailerons flow smoothly into the airfoil curvature of the wing panels—no bumps or dips. With

tips installed and the aileron fitting completed, you can prepare to join the wing panels.

Fit one of the two plywood dihedral braces into the slots behind the upper and lower main spars. The fit should be snug, but not forced. If you have to force the brace into the slot, widen the slot slightly by sanding it with the edge of a bar sander.

Hold the wing panels against each other and slip the dihedral braces into position. Note that one brace is slightly longer than the other, and that one is the lower brace.

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14

15 Use 30-minute epoxy to join the wing panels and install the dihedral braces. Coat the root ribs thoroughly, and apply a generous coating on the contact areas of the spars and dihedral braces. Don’t be sloppy with the adhesive: the wing’s center section is not the correct place to be stingy with the epoxy.

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17 Remove the clamps and give your handiwork the critical eye. This model has a lot of wing, but it really wasn’t too tough to build. In fact, if you like building model airplanes even half as much as I do, this will be a great wing to construct.

The braces should fit snugly against the rear faces of the main spars, running all the way up to the second rib in each panel and under the cap strip at that rib station. If the length of the braces prevents the root ribs from fully contacting one another, sand the ends of the braces—only a few strokes of the sander at a time—until the fit is perfect.

Use 30-minute epoxy to join the panels. Mix the two parts together for at least five minutes to ensure a good blend, then use a Du-Bro or Great Planes disposable epoxy brush 42

If clamps are not in your workshop inventory, you need to go shopping—now! You can find spring clamps in any hardware store, big-box home stores and even auto supply stores. With one wing panel held flat on the workbench, use books, boxes or scrap lumber to prop up the opposite panel at the correct angle. Clamp the wing panels and dihedral braces tightly together while the epoxy cures overnight.

RC SPORT FLYER — JULY 2013

Cut and join four pieces of 3/32-in. balsa for each side of the center-section sheeting. Use thin CA to assemble the sheets, then sand them flat and trim their edges straight with the bar sander. Lay each four-piece sheet over the center section, and trim the fore and aft edges to fit.

to apply a liberal coating to both root ribs and the back sides of the upper and lower main spars. Brush a coat over the faces of the dihedral braces, then put all the pieces together again with the center section resting over a sheet of waxed paper to prevent the panels from becoming a permanent part of your workbench.

Wipe away any excess epoxy with a paper towel, and block up one wing panel until the dihedral braces are flush with the line of the main spars.

Books, boxes and scrap lumber are great for propping up the high panel; I used the waxed paper box and that

worked fine. Clamp the braces to the spars, and clamp the root ribs together wherever you can fit the clamps. Double- and triple-check the alignment, and when you’re sure that it’s correct and the prop job is solid, allow the epoxy to cure for at least eight hours.

When the epoxy is thoroughly— no cheating—cured, remove the clamps and inspect your work.

Remove any epoxy that might interfere with a smooth application of the upper or lower center-section sheeting, and use gap-filling CA to

SPACEWALKER II WING, PART 4

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19 Attach the center-section sheeting with medium CA, then use the bar sander to feather the fore and aft ends of the sheets into the leading- and trailing-edge sheeting on the wing. Cut holes in the sheets for the servo wires to enter into the fuselage, and you’ve gone as far as you can until the Spacewalker’s fuselage construction is well underway.

add scraps of balsa over the gaps in the ribs over the upper main spars.

Sand the scraps to match the airfoil.

Butt one of the 3/32 x 3-in. sheets against the root rib, and mark it where it crosses the first inboard rib. Cut the sheet at that mark, then use the sheet as a guide to cut seven more pieces to the same length. Lay one set of four sheets over a piece of waxed paper, Great Planes Plan Protector or parchment paper, and glue them together with thin CA. Repeat the procedure for the second set of four, then sand the assembled sheets smooth, and sand both sides of the sheets straight. Lay one sheet over the center section of one wing panel, and mark the cut lines where the sheet meets the leading- and trailing-edge wing sheeting. Make the cuts slightly outside the lines, and trim the sheets to perfection with the bar sander, trial-fitting the sheet into the wing before applying any adhesive.

When you’re happy with the fit, run a bead of gap-filling CA along the front and rear edges of the sheet, and over the root and tip in the wing. Put the sheet in position over the center section, and press down with a circular motion of your palms, swirling constantly over the entire area of the sheet until the CA cures. You want to be sure that the sheet fully contacts the structure underneath it. Repeat the sheeting FOLLOW US ON TWITTER @RCSPORTFLYER

I’m really enjoying this Sig Spacewalker II kit, but I need a break and I have a Nick Ziroli Fokker Dr.1 triplane fuselage that’s crying out for some attention. I’ve already built the tail feathers and three wings for the Dr.1 in some of my earlier installments, so I think I’ll pick up on that one next. Sure hope you’ll be here with me. It’s nice to have you around.

procedure for the opposite panel.

Use the bar sander with no. 80 or 100 paper to feather the fore and aft edges of the center section into the leading- and trailing-edge sheeting on the wing, then sand the two center sheets to blend into each other without any bumps or dips. Make a pair of cutouts in the center sheeting for the aileron servo wires to pass through. I rough-cut the openings with a hobby knife, then rounded them nicely with my 1/2-in. PermaGrit round tool.

At this point, the Spacewalker II wing is essentially complete, with only the landing gear blocks and wing attachment points remaining before completing the lower centersection sheeting. It would have been fun to perform these tasks now, but they cannot be completed until the fuselage construction is well underway.

Well, that’s it for another installment. You and I have “Spacewalkered” together for the last four installments, and I’m guessing that we could all use a break. That break will come in the form of beginning the fuselage construction of the Nick Ziroli Fokker Dr.1 triplane, whose tail surfaces and three large wings were completed in several of my earlier entries. The Dr.1 is a terrific sport-flier’s model, maybe not true-to-exact-scale, but it could never be mistaken for a J-3 Cub or

a P-38. This will be a fun build, and I’d love to have you here with me to share it.

Many of the techniques I describe in this “Building Model Airplanes” series for RC Sport Flyer have been demonstrated in previous installments. If you are enjoying the series, and find your building skills improving from the information presented, please consider having back issues on hand for reference— just in case you want a refresher or may have missed something along the way. Back issues can be ordered from the publisher, and subscriptions to the magazine are available at $24 for 12 issues.

Till next month, this is art, my friends, and your skills are surely developing.

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BY Rob Caso

FAVORITES

IT’S JUST STUFF, BUT IT MAKES MODELING EASY

L

ooking back over the million or so years that I have been a modeler— both plastic and flying scale models—I have come to rely on a number of materials, tools, adhesives or whatever that simply do the job. While I could fill a book on these things and how to use them, I am going to focus on a few common and perhaps not so common things that I employ in almost every model that I make. My overriding philosophy in building is to use whatever works and, as such, I refuse to be lock-stepped into using only certain things simply because that’s what I did yesterday. As a result, I am always looking for new things

and ways to make modeling easier and my models lighter and more realistic, with the ultimate goal of having what looks like a real airplane, just a little smaller. Certainly, I will be mentioning brand names and some of these items may or may not be products of advertisers in this magazine, but I will defer to Wil in dealing with this issue! I am sure that, for many of you, there may not be any magnanimous revelations contained herein.

On the other hand, if you take away a single new idea from this installment, I will view my work here as being done.

Until next time, enjoy the build.

Quack916@aol.com

WEST SYSTEMS EPOXY

Easy to use and never had a bad batch. I use it to make all my glass parts.

DURHAM’S WATER PUTTY

TITEBOND III ULTIMATE WOOD GLUE Ok, it does take a bit longer to dry than the usual blob of CA blasted with a gallon of accelerator. If you can last the ½ hour setup time (overnight for a complete bond), try this stuff. It is seriously strong and I use it for sheeting, former installation, cross braces, spars—you name it.

1/16-IN. FIBERGLASS STRANDS Never use microballoons for anything but a thickener with epoxy as they actually weaken a glue joint. Mix in this stuff instead for structural applications.

EVERCOAT 2-PART POLYESTER GLAZING PUTTY Sticks to anything, sands like hard balsa and feathers beautifully. Cures in 15 minutes, so work fast. Kind of heavy.

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RC SPORT FLYER — JULY 2013

Durham’s water what? OK, it’s actually a very dense, plasterlike material. I use it to make plugs for vacuumforming clear plastic parts, making first a female mold from vacuum-forming over a wood plug.

Into this goes the Water Putty and out comes a smooth plug that’s great for clear parts.

3M BLUE ACRYL FILLER Buttery smooth to apply and easy to sand.

Expensive for a reason.

FAVORITES

NITRATE DOPE

EPOXY PAINT

Yes, it still has a place in modeling today. I use it mainly to toughen up sheeting as it glues the wood fibers together.

Use dope to protect thin sheeting from water-based fillers and varnish. The can even says “Aircraft Finish”— perfect! Don’t forget the thinner.

I used this stuff on my Storch 20 years ago and it still looks great. Heavy, yes, but you don’t need much to cover and it sticks to anything.

DUPLICOLOR PRIMER AND PAINT In the world of off the shelf, single-part paint and primer, Duplicolor is the best. Their filler primer works great.

MINWAX POLYCRYLIC SATIN VARNISH (NOT SHOWN) Great for applying .075 ounce glass to skinned surfaces, sealing weaved covering, applying rib taping, sealing primed surfaces. May warp thin sheeted surfaces, so dope these first.

KRYLON FLAT BLACK OIL BASED ARTIST’S PAINT

This stuff sprays beautifully, sets up fast and has the perfect sheen for cockpit details.

LINING BRUSHES

I use this stuff mainly for weathering and pilots. Takes some practice to use, but blends and highlights beautifully due to the fine pigments and the slow dry time.

Lining brushes in 00 or 000 size are great for detailing.

The longer ones hold a lot of paint and take the shake out of my “not so young anymore” hands. I use these things for lining between colors on a pilot or on other small details where you want the colors to pop. Shadowing, oils streaks, panel lines—it all can be done with a lining brush. See my previous “Modifying Pilot Figures” article in the August, 2012 issue of RCSF.

TESTOR’S DULLCOTE A spritz of this will dull and even out a warbird paint job. Does not affect foam and dries quickly.

Mask your canopy first.

TAMIYA PAINT AND PRIMER SPRAY Atomizes nicely and stays put. Use their gray primer for finishing plastic details.

FOLLOW US ON TWITTER @RCSPORTFLYER

RC-SF.COM

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ALUMINUM FOIL FOR MASKS Cheap, easy to form around protuberances, and is impervious to letting paint through. Are you STILL using newspaper? Come on.

TAMIYA MASKING TAPE A bit pricey, but I have never pulled paint off a model with this tape and it leaves a perfect line.

SCOTCH GREEN AUTOBODY TAPE Does not age like regular masking tape, does not pull paint nor leave a residue. Not cheap, but who cares? The finish is everything.

SANDPAPER 3M autobody grade paper is much better than what’s at the hardware store. The adhesivebacked paper can be stuck to pads and blocks.

MOTORGUARD SOFTBLOCK FLEXIBLE SANDING PADS Sanding with a firm but flexible pad helps to properly level a curved surface. Like a fuselage. Still using fingers? Come on.

HOOKED TOOLS Nothing is more frustrating than fishing wires that never seem to go where you want them to through a model. The other end is for pushing.

CIRCULAR SAW BITS FOR A ROTARY TOOL These things cut anything. Hold the rotary tool firmly and keep your fingers away from its mouth. Safety glasses a must.

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RC SPORT FLYER — JULY 2013

FAVORITES

BEDFORD 26-1125 AIR REGULATOR The cheap regulators that come with compressors just cannot regulate pressure consistently or in small increments.

BADGER 200 SINGLE ACTION AIRBRUSH

PLASTIC SHAPES See my “Cockpits” articles in the January and February issues of RCSF. It’s all there.

Great beginner’s airbrush and one you’ll never stop using.

Inexpensive, but spring for the braided hose. Badger will fix these for the cost of shipping. This one is older than me.

BALSA PLYWOOD Plywood is nothing more that two or more pieces of wood laminated together at 90 degrees. Do this for balsa bulkheads or fuselage side sheets each part of which can be holed significantly without reducing strength.

PLASTIC LAMINATED TO WOOD Need a quick hatch cover? Laminate some .010-in. plastic to a piece of 1/64-in. ply—just about ready for finish and it’s very strong.

FMA LIPO CHARGERS FMA was one of the first companies to make chargers that charge those sensitive lipos via a balancing plug whereby each cell is charged and balanced individually. As a result, I have never cooked a lipo using a Cell Pro charger in my eight or so years with this equipment. Non-gizmologists like me will love how easy these things are to use. Woe unto you if you are still using the discharge (supply) lead for charging. Don’t do it.

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RC-SF.COM

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Precision Control for Any Scale High-speed processing, state-of-the-art 2.4GHz protocol and built-in telemetry are in every JR® DMSS™ receiver. That’s because JR experts believe total control is just as important in a park flyer as it is in a Giant-Scale model. There are six new DMSS receivers available, plus powerful remote antenna options to suit the diversity needs of any aircraft. Whether you choose the park-flight RG411B or the full-range RG1131B— the combined features plus the robust, class-leading DMSS signal bond make it possible for you to experience more control than ever before.

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BY Dick Sarpolus

GET ON YOUR BUDDY’S SIX WITH THIS EDF FIGHTER

GRUMMAN F9F COUGAR My little EDF is quite fast, can burn up a lot of sky and it looks good when flown like a jet fighter, with its large-radius smooth turns. It is very aerobatic too.

The profile fuselage pieces, tail surface parts and the ailerons are cut from sheet foam. The wing panels are hotwire cut foam.

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RC SPORT FLYER — JULY 2013

GRUMMAN F9F COUGAR

W

arbirds have always been popular modeling subjects. Now that we have practical, electricducted-fan (EDF) power plants, we can easily model jet warbirds. I like the early jet fighters, feeling that they were flown “seat-of-the-pants.”

Then the guy in the seat had to be an engineer as well as a pilot.

Grumman’s F9F Panther and Cougar are interesting designs. The straight-wing Panther first flew in 1948, and was one of the earliest Navy jet fighters.

The swept-wing version came along in 1951, and was named the Cougar. However, its aircraft designation remained F9F. The Bridges At Toko-Ri movie, with William Holden, featured a Panther knocking out bridges in Korea. The fighter takeoff and landing sequences on the carrier and the helicopter recovery shots were terrific.

What I’ve found is that it is easy to get information on any historic military aircraft by using the web. Although this model is only a foamy profile type, fitted with an EDF, its outline is reasonably close to scale and it can be made to look

This is the assembled airframe before equipment installation.

The wing panels butt up against the fuselage sides.

This is the ELE 70-mm, electricducted-fan unit. It comes assembled with brushless outrunner motor, fan and all in place.

Closeup of the EDF unit. The EDF gets inserted into the fuselage cutout, and it is held in place with hot-melt glue.

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pretty realistic. Squadron/Signal Publications has an excellent book on the F9F Panther and Cougar that provides excellent documentation.

Because most of the Navy’s fighters were dark blue, I chose to do this model in the Navy, high-visibility trainer colors to make it easy to see when in flight.

I’m amazed at the power of today’s EDF units, as well as their ease of use. The ELE 70-mm EDF, bought from BP Hobbies, comes with the motor installed and just needs the connectors soldered onto

The aileron servos mount in the top surface of the wing, with .047-in. music-wire pushrods to the 1/16-in. plywood control horns.

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This bottom view of the airframe shows that it is clean and smooth, which lets you land and take off from close-mown grass.

The elevator pushrod is .047-in. wire that runs through a nylon tube that has been hot-melt glued to the fuselage side to prevent rod flexing.

the motor’s leads. I made my model using a sheet foam profile fuselage.

It is reinforced with 1/32-in. plywood doublers. I cut a hole through the fuselage for the EDF unit. Note that you will not install the motor until you’ve finished and detailed the airplane. The EDF unit is then installed—held in place with a few dabs of hot glue.

This Cougar sports a 38-in. wingspan and has 350 in.2 of wing area. It weighs about 24 oz. As such, this Cougar takes off easily from an underhand, swing-arm, hand launch.

Note that if the grass is fairly short and dry, the airplane will taxi around, rip across the grass and jump off, then climb straight up.

BUILD

This model is “only” a profile, but the realism lost with the slim fuselage

The LiPo battery pack is held to the side of the fuselage with hook-and-loop material and a strap as seen here.

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RC SPORT FLYER — JULY 2013

is made up with the ease and speed of construction.

Any common, sheet foam material is suitable for its construction, such as Depron or Midwest Cellfoam 88.

The home-insulation sheet foams or BP Hobbies construction foam will work well too. If you don’t cut foam wings, there are commercial foam wing cutters that can do it. The Core House, Phil Cartier, offers a box of four sets of computer-cut cores for a good price. I cut a set of the plans to use as paper templates. Then I

GRUMMAN F9F COUGAR just trace around the patterns with a ballpoint pen to transfer the design to the foam. Next the parts are cut from the foam with a sharp, scalpeltype modeling knife. The profile fuselage is reinforced with a strip of 1/4- × 1/2-in. basswood and 1/32-in. plywood doublers on the forward section. I use 5- and 15-minute epoxy for most of my airplane projects because I’m always in a hurry. Epoxy works well for gluing most sheet foams. However, if you should use the foam with a thin plastic film sheeting, it will need pinholes punched through the skin so the epoxy can make contact with the foam. A friend builds foam airplanes, but he uses foamfriendly CA glue. His planes always turn out lighter than mine.

The foam wing cores I bought from The Core House are 24-in. long.

I trimmed off the roots and tips at the angle, as shown on the plans, to create this swept-wing Cougar. 1/8- x 3/8-in. basswood spars were epoxied into the foam cores. The two wing panels butt up against the sides of the fuselage, held together with the 1/8-in.-plywood wing joiner. In so doing, the only cut needed through the fuselage is for the slot for the plywood joiner. That results in a stronger fuselage.

The leading edges of the ailerons, elevator and rudder are cut and sanded at an angle. I hinged the ailerons, elevator and rudder with two-inch-wide, clear plastic packaging tape. The packing was then tapeapplied to the upper surfaces. Next the control surfaces were folded upward, and the tape then applied to the bottoms, pushing it into the hinge gap and sealing it to both edges.

This provides free control surface movement and a strong, completely sealed hinge gap.

The EDF unit simply inserts in the opening made for it in the fuselage.

It is held in place with a few dabs of glue from a hot glue gun. The servos are mounted by cutting holes in the foam. They are push fit, then secured in place with hot glue. Short pieces of nylon tubing are hot glued to the fuselage sides to keep the elevator’s and rudder’s pushrods from flexing.

The ESC and receiver mount on the top surfaces of the wing with hookFOLLOW US ON TWITTER @RCSPORTFLYER

The design proportions of my Cougar provide easy handling, yet lively and fun aerobatic performance. You’ll like it.

Flying in a tight bank for the cameraman, the Cougar shows off its wing planform as well as its EDF power.

My F9F was painted with a water-based, acrylic craft paint. You’ll spray it on with a low-cost airbrush or spray gun.

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The radio receiver mounts on top of the wing and next to the fuselage, but out of the way of the jet blast.

and-loop tape. The battery mounts to the side of the fuselage. I use hookand-loop material that runs through slots in the fuselage to secure the battery in position.

For the wing panels, I like to glue a piece of 1/8-in. plywood in place in the foam, then cut a hole in the wood to accept the servo. The servo is then held in place with mounting screws.

One aileron servo is used per wing panel. The wing servos are installed in the top of the wings, which leaves the bottoms clean for landings and ground takeoffs. Slots are cut into the control surfaces for the 1/16-in.plywood control horns. The horns are epoxied in place. I use .047-in.

Chris Hinson, owner of Extreme Flight and designer of the 104-in. Extra 300, and I pose with his masterpiece right after the Extreme Flight Championships. Chris’ hard work paid off. The result being what is, in my honest opinion, the best 35% Freestyle and IMAC machine ever produced!

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RC SPORT FLYER — JULY 2013

music wire for the pushrods, with a Z-bend on one end and a DuBro Mini E/Z Link on the other. The wing panels are covered with a lowtemperature, iron-on film. The film adds a little strength, protects the foam and provides an easy-to-paint surface. I like SLC covering material, which is sold by The Core House. It’s lightweight and accepts most types of paint. I’ve found that foam airplanes are easy to paint with water-based acrylic craft paints. You’ll want to spray it on with a low-cost airbrush The Cougar is shown here with the Grumman F9F Panther, the earlier, straight-winged version of this Navy jet fighter.

Specifications Type

Plans-built EDF foamy

Skill level

Intermediate

Construction

Sheet foam, plywood, hot wire-cut foam wing

Wingspan

38 in.

Wing area

≈350 in.2

Weight

≈24 oz

Wing loading

≈11 oz/ft2

Length

34 in.

Power

ELE 70-mm EDF

ESC

40-amp

Battery

11.1-volt 3-cell 2200-mAh LiPo

Transmitter

4-channel

Receiver

micro

Servos

4 micros

Rsarpolus2@comcast.net home.earthlink.net/`philcartier/ for the hot wire cut foam wing cores www.bphobbies.com for the powerplant hardware

GRUMMAN F9F COUGAR or small paint sprayer. Sharpie® felttip marker pens work well for adding scale detailing. Stick-on vinyl military insignias will finish your model.

For this type of model, I like to use BP Hobbies’ 2212-13 motor, in combination with their 18-amp ESC. An 1800- to 2200-mAh 3-cell LiPo battery pack delivers the electrons.

This setup delivers enough EDF power to make hand launches easy.

As I said, on short, dry grass, the F9F will take off from the ground and climb straight up.

What you’ll like, I think, is that this little EDF is quite fast. Also, it flies like a jet fighter, with large-radius, smooth turns. It is aerobatic too. This is fun stuff!

Order plan #2260 at the RC Sport Flyer site: rc-sf.com.

The old fox holding the Cougar is me.

I’ve had lots of fun building these models and you will too.

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RC-SF.COM

55

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©2013 Horizon Hobby, Inc. Evolution, the Evolution logo and the Horizon Hobby logo are trademarks or registered trademarks of Horizon Hobby, Inc. Walbro is a registered trademark of Walbro Engine Management, LLC. 41264

SERIOUS FUN.™

BY Daniel Holman

AEROBATICS PART 4

SET IT UP,TEST IT, FLY IT,TEST IT, FLY IT…

I

remember how nervous I felt while walking my first real aerobatic airframe out to the runway for its maiden flight. I was thinking, did I forget anything during the build? What should I expect during the initial seconds of this first flight? What will I do if...?

These thoughts are quite normal when you are new to the world of flying aerobatic airplanes in competition. If you thoroughly follow the instruction manuals and the tips for success I gave in the last issue, your chances for success are high!

TEST FLYING

Flying 3D aerobatics takes on a whole new level of difficulty when done in formation, but is a fun challenge! Here I am flying my Extreme Flight® 88-in. Edge 540T in formation with Ben Batts. He is flying the PAU® 88-in. Edge 540T.

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RC SPORT FLYER — JULY 2013

Test flying an airplane is something that must be taken very seriously and must not be rushed. I’ve seen pilots arrive at the airfield with a new airplane thinking it’s time to show off for fellow pilots. It always scares me.

If you are test flying a small 3D foamy, that’s one thing, but anything bigger must be broken in well before it is wrung out. If possible, I like to test fly an airplane when I have the airfield to myself, with as few spectators as possible. This makes concentrating on the flight performance easier, and it eases my nerves a bit as well. It is also very important that you have a trusted, and preferably experienced, assistant with you to aid in any way that is needed.

When you assemble the airplane at the airfield, I recommend you use a small amount of blue thread-locker on any metal-to-metal fasteners that retain flying surfaces, the canopy, etc.

The thread-locker will dry on the fasteners and remain even after many flying sessions. On my gas-poweredengine airplanes, I re-apply the

AEROBATICS PART 4 thread-locker every 50 flights or so.

Once the airplane is assembled, re-check all electrical and mechanical connections before starting the engine. Do so as a safety check!

Regardless of whether your airplane has an electric motor, or an internal combustion engine, the first startup should be done carefully.

Always keep the airplane secured against runaway, with the space around the propeller free of objects.

If your airplane is powered by an internal combustion engine, I recommend running approximately a half tank of gasoline through it before you fly the airplane. During this ground-run, ensure that the throttle transitions are quick and that the idle is reliable and smooth. Also during this initial run, never open the throttle 100 percent.

Then too, with the engine running, you MUST do a thorough radio range check of the control system.

You must do so from every angle at the distances recommended by the radio manufacturer. Also, this is a good time to double-check all control surfaces to verify that their direction of travel and range of motion is set properly. Even though I’ve set up lots of airplanes, I still double- and triple-check the new ones, and then I usually get a second opinion/check from my brother, Michael. There is no such thing as being overly cautious when checking a remote-controlled airplane for safe operation.

Once your airplane is warmed up and thoroughly checked over and tested, you can line it up for takeoff on the runway. Then you will gradually increase the throttle, while being ready with the rudder control to counter the propeller’s torque. Once you feel the airplane settling into a straight track, open the throttle to about 65 percent. On an aerobatic airplane, 65 percent will provide pulling power close to or equal to the airplane’s weight. At this power setting it only takes about a second before the airplane is ready to lift off the ground. While I don’t advise putting the airplane into a vertical climb by any means, don’t be shy with the climb angle. Because the airplane is not yet trimmed properly, altitude is safety.

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Doing pre-flight checks is a must! In this picture, my brother, Michael, is helping me go over my Extreme Flight® 104-in.

Extra 300 before a freestyle flight. Notice the tail-hold mechanism that ensures the model stays in place during motor run-up.

Ground-running a new engine is a good way to break in a new power system.

Here I am warming up the new Desert Aircraft DA-60 engine in my Extreme Flight® 91-in. Extra 300 EXP right before its maiden flight.

When mixing the elevator and ailerons to the rudder to accomplish perfect, knife-edge flight, the amounts of mixing will be different for each roll direction (left or right) because of the engine’s propeller torque factor (P factor).

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Once your airplane is perfectly set up with programmable mixes, your model should deliver perfectly straight, knife-edge flight, without needing to use any additional elevator or aileron control.

During the first few flights I always go easy on the airplane’s engine and avoid full-throttle runs. This is the time to simply get a feel for the airplane’s different handling characteristics and perform relaxing and simple maneuvers.

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RC SPORT FLYER — JULY 2013

CENTER OF GRAVITY

Once you’ve flown the model to a comfortable altitude, trim the airplane in all three flight axes, when flying at close to half-throttle. If its center of gravity (CG) is set right, the trim should not change with the airspeed. Once the airplane is perfectly trimmed, perform a half roll to inverted to check its inverted CG. I personally prefer a slightly noseheavy, inverted CG, which requires a very slight push of down-elevator to maintain the horizontal flight path.

Some pilots prefer a neutral CG. When the CG is perfectly neutral, the airplane will hold its altitude and flight line without any elevator control whether upright or inverted.

A tail-heavy CG is very undesirable for many reasons. If you find that the airplane climbs when inverted, you must either move components

AEROBATICS PART 4

forward in the airplane or add weight to the nose. A tail-heavy CG will be problematic when performing precision aerobatics, and it can also create bad piloting habits. Landing can also be a challenge with such a CG, as the airplane will want to balloon and climb as it slows down.

After trimming the airplane and ensuring that its CG is correct, I always take the airplane to a safe altitude and test its stall performance.

A well-designed aerobat should always mush straight forward when stalled, but it is good to check to know the airspeed at which this takes place.

Keeping the first flight of an airplane short and low stress is good too. You should begin landing preparation well before fuel or battery voltage gets low. Landing a well-designed aerobatic airplane is relatively easy because it doesn’t have bad flight characteristics. I prefer to land mine in a three-point position, as slowly as possible, so as to reduce stress on the landing gear, but smooth, two-point landings are fine too.

POST-FLIGHT CHECK

The biggest reason to keep an airplane’s first flight short is to do a post-flight inspection of it for any problems that could have arisen during the flight. All electrical connections, major stress points, mechanical connections, covering, etc., should be thoroughly inspected.

Note that the in-flight stresses and vibrations can have harmful effects on control system equipment if it has not been properly installed. Smoothrunning, electric-powered airplanes are not as susceptible to these problems, but should be inspected nonetheless.

MIXING

Once you have your airplane trimmed and have set its CG correctly, you will be ready to start performing final programming, including control mixes. Because programming an airplane while it is in flight is risky at best, this process requires many short flights, with radio programming done between FOLLOW US ON TWITTER @RCSPORTFLYER

With a neutral center of gravity, the airplane will hold a straight line without changing altitude whether upright or inverted. If the CG is slightly noseheavy, a slight push of down elevator will be required when inverted.

them. For this step, having an assistant with a pen and paper to record programming values helps much because you must remember quite a bit of information each flight.

It is important to be mindful of the fact that the mixing required is directly related to the airplane’s CG. For example, the farther forward the airplane’s CG, the more up-elevator trim is needed to keep the airplane flying level. Alternately, the further aft the CG, the more down-elevator trim is needed. When you roll the airplane into knife-edge flight, this trim will either cause the airplane to pull towards its canopy or tuck towards the gear. Likewise, when the airplane is pointed straight down, this trim will either make it slowly pull or push out of the dive. When you roll the airplane into knife-edge, or put it in a straight downline, you do not want to have to use the elevator control to keep it flying straight.

With this in mind, the first thing that you must do is fly the downline test. Climb your model as high as you can comfortably see it. Then point it straight down with the throttle set at idle. If the airplane falls straight down, without deviating from its vertical line, you are golden. However, if the airplane slowly pulls out of the dive, I would recommend moving

the CG aft just a bit. This requires a slight amount of down-elevator trim, which will in turn straighten out the airplane’s downlines. If the airplane slowly pushes out of the dive to inverted, perform the reverse of this process by moving its CG forward and adding a slight amount of upelevator trim.

This technique works very well with almost all well-designed aerobatic airplanes. However, some airplanes may require such a drastic CG change to achieve a perfect vertical downline that it will hinder other maneuvers. In this case, the best solution is to program your transmitter with a downline mix.

Such a mix is a throttle-to-elevator, programmed with a curve so that a slight amount of down elevator is added when the throttle is at idle.

This can be somewhat of a piloting hindrance if you pull the throttle back to idle when on a straight line, but during precision aerobatics you should only idle the throttle when your airplane is pointed straight down. If this mix is required, I recommend you activate it via a transmitter switch because such a mix can make 3D flight difficult.

When you have the airplane’s CG set precisely to neutralize the downlines, you can move on to the RC-SF.COM

61

I’m setting up my Hangar 9® DA-120powered Extra 300 for a slow and gentle three-point landing. Learning to set the airplane down gently and right where you want it will help every aspect of your piloting skills!

rudder-to-elevator and rudder-toaileron mixes. These are quite simple and just take some time to perfect.

When I fine-tune these mixes, I usually have my brother Michael behind me to take notes because the amounts of mixing varies from left-knife-edge to right-knife-edge flight. This is due to the propeller torque factor. Therefore I take the time to mix this out within the first few flights; I often fly up to five, oneminute flights, fine-tuning the mixes in between. When you’ve done this right, you should be able to roll the airplane on its side and maintain perfectly straight, knife-edge flight without using any elevator or aileron inputs.

DUAL/TRIPLE RATES AND EXPO Before explaining this step, I recognize that each pilot has their preferences, so what is right for one pilot might not be for the next. I do not like flipping switches, but some guys throw switches almost as fast as their transmitter’s sticks. The 62

RC SPORT FLYER — JULY 2013

following is my favorite setup, which I use in my airplanes.

First, I program three different rates all on one switch! In the top position, I have my 3D rate settings, which provide my airplane with full, bevel-to-bevel throws on all surfaces.

I only use this rate when I absolutely need all the throw possible, and for low-level 3D flying. In this rate, I use about 25 percent exponential on the rudder and 30 percent on the ailerons and elevator.

The second rate control is what I call my freestyle rate. This is the rate I use when I fly most freestyle maneuvers; while it has enough control throw to do any maneuver, nothing is quite maxed out. To perform a proper snap roll, full-rate aileron will slow the airplane down because of excess drag. Because of this, my airplane’s ailerons are only given about 35 degrees of control throw. The elevator and rudder have about 45 degrees of throw.

The third rate that I run is my precision rate, which I use for IMAC (International Miniature Aerobatic

Club) style flying as well as some precision maneuvers during freestyle routines. This rate takes slightly longer to program properly and will be slightly different for each airplane.

The biggest variable airplane to airplane is the ailerons. The ailerons should have just the right amount of control throw to perform a perfect snap roll. In order to find this sweet spot, I recommend starting with between 30 and 35 degrees. Then test the snap-roll rate/speed when flying your airplane on a straight line at roughly 60 percent throttle. With this as a starting point, slowly back the ailerons’ deflections off until the snap rate at this flight attitude begins to slow down. At this point, increase the throw back to the point at which it snap rolls the fastest. The theory behind this is that the airplane will snap roll faster with less aileron because of the reduced drag. If the aileron is reduced from this point, the snap-roll rate will be reduced.

For this rate setting, I usually run about 25 degrees of elevator throw and 30–35 degrees of rudder. Note

AEROBATICS PART 4 that for IMAC flying, you will want to have plenty of rudder control when performing hammer-head stalls.

Some pilots like to set all the controls to the point at which the airplane performs a perfect snap roll when all the sticks are at their limits. The problem that I have with this option is that if more elevator or rudder is needed during the snap to correct for wind, or to help hold a line, you don’t have any extra to use. Regardless of the maneuver that I’m trying to fly, I want to have just slightly more control throw than I need for the rare occasions that it is needed. For my models’ precision rates, I generally run 25–30 percent expo on the ailerons, 25 percent on the elevator, and 20 percent on the rudder.

I personally like my radio controls to have a very sensitive feel. You will likely want to start out with a little more exponential than I run in models. I would encourage you to slowly back the expo settings down as a way to find how little your model needs to provide a comfortable pilot feel. Expo has its place, but too much will make the controls non-linear and produce a weird feel around the halfway point of the control range.

AILERON DIFFERENTIAL

Lastly, you might need to add a slight amount of aileron differential to achieve a perfect axial roll. Most mid-

Everyone has a preference with regard to how to hold a transmitter. I prefer holding it as seen here, flying with thumbs only and keeping both index fingers between the two top switches for ease of flipping.

wing airplanes do not require any of this, but some airplanes require that the ailerons move up slightly further than they move down. The easiest way to determine this is to perform a rolling vertical downline with the throttle at idle. If the airplane looks like it is rolling with a fire pole through its center and is holding the line perfectly, the ailerons are perfect.

If there is any wobble in the roll, however, you will want to add a slight amount of aileron differential.

OVERALL

I have just given you the setup that I use on my competition and

This photo shows you the downline-program-control mix that some airplanes require. Note that it is not a linear mix, but rather a curve that only adds down elevator when the throttle is at idle.

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aerobatic aircraft. You may like slightly different setups, but this is a good starting point. When your airplane is dialed in properly, burn some gas through it! Then make sure that everything is broken in by the time the next issue of this magazine comes around.

In the next issue, I will start explaining aerobatic maneuvers. That should help you sharpen your piloting skills and build a good foundation for IMAC, 3D, and EXtreme aerobatics!

This shows the rudder-to-elevator and -aileron mixes that are needed in almost all aerobatic airplanes. The percentages will be different from airplane to airplane, but the method is always the same.

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BY James VanWinkle

AIRPLANE HANGER HANG IT. DON’T BANG IT!

These are the typical materials used to make my airplane hangers. The materials include PVC pipe, 45and 90-degree elbows and PVC cement.

You’ll also need an inexpensive saw for cutting the pipe to the proper lengths.

These are the parts used for my hanger: four sections of PVC cut to 12 inches, two sections of PVC cut to four inches, two 45-degree elbows, and three 90-degree elbows. The pipe lengths will vary depending on your airplane’s size and shape.

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RC SPORT FLYER — JULY 2013

You’ll need to set the unit on a flat surface. Then you’ll configure the parts until the legs are straight and set at the proper angle to hang evenly. This step takes a few minutes to get right, but must be done before you start gluing parts together.

AIRPLANE HANGER

After a trial fit, I check the hanger for balance before gluing the parts in place. If the legs hang down, then you must bend the parts until it hangs level, otherwise your model may not balance correctly on the unit.

M

ost RC enthusiasts eventually acquire quite a collection of aircraft. It is inevitable since every airplane not only looks different, but flies differently too. Although our significant others don’t always understand why we “need” so many airplanes, it makes perfect sense to us. We hang them on the walls, sit them on the ground, fill the family room, storage sheds and more.

There may be a better way to get your models out of harm’s way. Why not hang them from the ceiling? In so doing, you can create room for more models in your workshop and elsewhere.

For about five dollars in building supplies and a simple saw you can build one of these racks. These airplane hangers go together in minutes and definitely keep your model out of harm’s way. The suspension system will easily handle models up to about 10 pounds, though models heavier than that must be load-tested first.

MATERIALS

• PVC pipe, 1/2-in.

5 feet is needed per hanger • PVC 1/2-in. 45° coupler 2 each per unit • PVC 1/2-in. 90° coupler 3 each per unit

For use with delicate models I recommend you add a bit of foam to the hanger. Secure it in place with zip-ties. Even using newspaper will provide a good cushion against damage for the wings if nothing else is readily available.

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Before gluing the parts in place, mark each part’s position relative to the other. You will use them as assembly guides so that the hanger comes together properly. Use caution, as the glue dries very quickly and is impossible to pull apart when dry.

• PVC cement small bottle will assemble many • Ceiling Hook typical bicycle ceiling support hook • Household saw

ASSEMBLY TIPS

• Gently assemble the parts without adhesive into the hanger shape that meets your model’s needs.

• Once the hanger is configured as you want and balances evenly when suspended, mark the components where each section of pipe meets the coupler.

• Glue one portion at a time, working your way from one end

Avoid ever using this type of hanger! Not only is it a pain to thread around the airplane and then remove later, but the wire tends to make creases in wood or foam wings, which will scar the model when the airplane’s weight hangs on the wire.

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AIRPLANE HANGER I use a smaller version to keep my sailplane up close to the ceiling due to its proximity to a door. The foam pads added to the hanger keep the model’s foam wing surfaces free of dents, dings and scratches.

Supplier Home Depot Somewhere in Your Town Hometown, Your State, Your Zip Phone: 800-HOME-DEPOT homedepot.com

The discus launched glider(DLG) has a hard composite surface and doesn’t need any padding. The model is very delicate so it was a great candidate for getting up and out of harm’s way.

of the hanger to the other. When completed, allow 10 minutes for the glue to thoroughly dry, then try to pull each section apart. This ensures it will hold the weight of your model, plus it is a good sanity check for you because you’ll verify that each section was glued well. It can be easy to miss a joint, which would then result in the entire rig falling from the ceiling, with airplane and all coming down to rest in a heap on the floor.

• Also, you must use a stud finder to ensure you screw the ceiling hook into a wood stud rather than into sheetrock, which is typically found covering the top of most new garages. I recommend you use a very small diameter drill bit to test for a ceiling stud.

That way if you miss the stud the resulting hole in the ceiling is easily repaired and will not be noticeable.

BUILD ONE

There you have it—these hangers will give you a new place to store your models. They’ll help you make room for your next project too. This is a simple, fast and inexpensive way for you to get your models up and out of the way in your workshop, garage or elsewhere.

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High, low or mid-wing models are all good candidates for this hanger system. This model has a first person view (FPV) system installed, so it has lots of electronic components. The PVC hanger is perfect for this model.

ALPINE SOARING ADVENTURE 2013

JULY 4–7 JOSEPH OREGON FMI:

ALPINESOARING.COM

BY Wil Byers

TRANSMITTER TRAYS

TO TRAY OR NOT TO TRAY, THAT IS THE PILOT’S QUESTION

Dakota shows us how the new Jeti transmitter tray fits her and the European-designed DC-16 radio. As you can see the transmitter is supported by a well-designed neck strap. The tray is molded plastic that also fits the transmitter very snuggly.

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The Jeti neck strap has four-way adjustment. When adjusted properly it prevents the tray from sliding around on your body. That means that your radio transmitter will have an extremely stable platform for you to use it on, which relates to accurate, precise control.

TRANSMITTER TRAYS

Here you see how the transmitter tray has side wings where the sides of your hands will rest. This helps stabilize your hands such that your control inputs are smooth and precise.

The neck strap attaches to two tray-support legs. At the top of the legs are three positioning holes that you can use to balance the radio as you would like relative to its horizontal position.

The wings on the Jeti tray provide easy access to the sliders and the switches, so your hand need not move to operate them. You can focus on rudder and throttle control at the same time as you flip a switch.

Again, on the right side of the tray, its wing provides you with easy access to the slider, the knob and the four toggle switches. Notice the hole in the top of the leg that you can use for horizontal balancing of the tray.

A

fter using a transmitter tray to aid my piloting for more than 30 years, I’m convinced they do help me. Then too, when I hear contest-winning pilots like Frazer Briggs (Tucson Shootout Champ) say that he feels using a transmitter tray helps him, I believe that many pilots would benefit from using a tray.

I started using a tray when a friend started making a very basic tray. That was back in 1983. He came to one of my club’s early, scale, fun-fly events. At that time he was swearing by the use of a transmitter tray. His tray design amounted to two pieces of aluminum bent at a 90-degree FOLLOW US ON TWITTER @RCSPORTFLYER

angle. The aluminum was spaced appropriately so that the aluminum brackets would support the transmitter. The brackets were bent at about a 45-degree angle on their tops as a way to position the radio horizontally against the pilot’s belly.

I was not impressed much by his tray. However, he was a friend and he talked a good game, if you know what I mean. The result was that I couldn’t refuse his offer to give his transmitter tray a try on my radio, which I think was a Century 7 system. After all, he was giving me one that he had made and was proud to be sharing it with me.

So I attached it to my radio—

honestly, I don’t remember how it fastened to the transmitter. Then I proceeded to give it a test. At first I was not impressed. Reality is that I didn’t like it. However, that day the lift was up at the slope and I wanted to log lots of airtime. Moreover, he and I were flying together, so I didn’t want to burst his design idea bubble.

Additionally, I knew that pilots were using them in Europe, and doing so with much success. The result was that I kept flying with the tray for a couple of hours.

By the time I was packing up to go home for a much-needed shower, I was solidly and completely hooked on using a transmitter tray.

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TRANSMITTER TRAYS

If you want the radio to sit with a somewhat down position, you would use the hole on the leg nearest the pilot’s belly, with the outermost hole having the radio resting in a somewhat antenna-high position. You’ll want the tray to position your hands comfortably.

What I found was that once I got used to not moving the transmitter around with every control movement, the tray provided a very stable platform for my transmitter. In so doing, I was only moving the transmitter’s control sticks and not the transmitter. Also, the transmitter’s tray was supported by my neck strap, so the transmitter was always at the same height relative to my body.

Then too, the tray let me relax my hands when I was not making control inputs—to the point where I could actually drop my hands to my sides once in a while. It was an epiphany.

I learned to like transmitter trays so much that I even made a custom mold so that I could fabricate a fiberlass tray for my 9-channel JR radio that I bought sometime later.

That fiberglass tray had wings on it that supported my hands. I also bought a very comfortable camera strap. It had a big, wide, padded neck strap. I used that tray for about 15 years or so. Then I started using a Graupner MC-24 transmitter tray with my Graupner MC-24 radio.

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Esprit Model sell these absolutely top-quality transmitter trays that are designed to fit Futaba, Hitec, JR, Spektrum and other brands. These trays also have wings on them to provide hand support to steady them as you pilot.

It should go without saying that I’m still a big fan of transmitter trays for all the reasons I’ve listed.

There is one more reason I’m even more of a transmitter tray fan: they have gotten much better. The transmitter trays that are being sold today by companies such as Esprit Model and others are much lighter in weight, they fit the radios better and their neck straps are works of art, designed to distribute the weight of the transmitter over your body evenly. The neck straps also hold the radio in position better than ever.

That means that whether you are flying at an RC airfield or at a slope site, the radio is not going to move, unless of course you do.

That stability translates directly into smoother, more precise control commands to your radio transmitter—ultimately, that means a more controlled airplane.

Okay, so I know you are not yet convinced that a transmitter tray is the solution to your piloting needs and wants. However, if you think about it, it makes sense. It makes

Distributor Esprit Model 1240 Clearmont St NE, Unit 12 Palm Bay, FL 32905 Phone: 321-729-4287 espritmodel.com

sense because you no longer need to carry the weight of your transmitter while you are flying your model. It lets you concentrate on control stick movements, managing switches, sliders and knobs. A transmitter tray even lets you take a rest during a long flight by way of just dropping your hands to your sides for short intervals.

I’ll underscore that transmitter trays make sense by saying that if they are good enough for the likes of Frazer Briggs, and other contestwinning pilots, they are good enough for me. Honestly, I think transmitter trays will be adopted by more and more pilots as the hobby grows and pilots discover how they advance their piloting skills.

If you want to try one, come and visit me. Alternately, Esprit Model will sell you a Jeti tray to go with your new DC-16 radio for only $99. Their Esprit tray, that fits multiple radio types, is only $42. It will be money well spent.

At Last! Sport Pilots Can Fly 3D! The NEW ParkZone® VisionAire™ 3D Bind-N-Fly® Park Flyer with AS3X® Technology Designed by the Father of 3D, Quique Somenzini, the VisionAire park flyer is the first park flyer to bridge the gap between sport plane stability and 3D agility using the revolutionary AS3X (Artificial Stabilization – 3-aXis) System.

Lightweight Construction and Brushless Power

Ingenious Aerodynamics

The wings are constructed of hollow, carbon-reinforced Z-Foam™ material that is lighter and stiffer than solid foam. A potent 10-size brushless power system delivers the awesome vertical performance required for extreme 3D.

The dual thickness airfoil, leading-edge vortex generators and extended chord ailerons work with the AS3X System to provide astounding slow flight control.

Spektrum™ AR635 6-Channel AS3X Receiver The AS3X System in the AR635 receiver was developed in cooperation with Quique to counter the effects of wind, turbulence and torque so the model tracks beautifully and is incredibly stable at every speed.

Wingspan: Length: Weight: Motor: Receiver: ESC: Servos: Battery: Charger: Transmitter:

45.0 in (1140mm) 42.5 in (1090mm) 43.7 oz (1240 g) 10-size, 1250Kv brushless outrunner Spektrum AR635 6-channel AS3X sport receiver E-flite® 40A Lite Pro Switch-Mode BEC (V2) E-flite 13 g digital micro servos 3S 11.1V 2200mAh 25C Li-Po (included) 2- to 3-cell DC Li-Po balancing (included) Full-range 4+ channel DSM2®/DSMX® required (sold separately)

BNF (PKZ6580) Go to parkzone.com right now to see the VisionAire park flyer in action and to find the ParkZone retailer near you.

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© 2013 Horizon Hobby, Inc. ParkZone, VisionAire, AS3X, Bind-N-Fly, Z-Foam, DSM2, DSMX, E-flite, just fly., Serious Fun and the Horizon Hobby logo are trademarks or registered trademarks of Horizon Hobby, Inc. The Spektrum trademark is used with permission of Bachmann Industries, Inc. 40828

BY Wil Byers

4-INTO-1WIRING HARNESS

SIMPLIFY WING-TO-FUSELAGE CONNECTIONS WITH THIS CONNECTOR TYPE

Start the work of making a connector by having high-quality tools such as these.

You can buy most everything at Home Depot. The little torch is from Tower Hobbies as is the hobby knife, which is fitted with a #11 blade.

1

W

ing root-to-fuselage wiring connections can be extremely problematic if not done right. As they say, I’ve been there and done that!

The problem arises if you have more than one servo installed per wing panel. In such cases, the number of servo lead connections that must be made at the wing root increases with each additional servo 72

RC SPORT FLYER — JULY 2013

in the wing. For example, on my new ASG-29 sailplane there are four servos in each wing. In this case, the connection at the wing would normally require four servo plug connections, which is messy as well as somewhat unreliable electrically.

I’ve done it, but this is not the way to have a clean, positive electrical connection between wing servos and radio receiver.

The best electrical connection

4-INTO-1 WIRING HARNESS

2 A good solder joint begins with a good mechanical connection. Start by stripping the wire with a set of sharp wire strippers. Then twist the wire together. Be sure to add shrink tubing at this point too.

4 You must also tin the pins on the connections; in this case you are looking at the main connector. Be careful to avoid having solder bridge between two pins on the connect, so don’t use too much solder.

6 Here you see the female connector with the wires soldered to it. Two servos share a common pin on the connector for the positive lead coming from the radio’s receiver.

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3 I tin the ends of the wires before I solder them to the connector. Notice that the plus and minus wires from the servo are joined while the signal wires remain isolated from each other.

5 Because both the wire and the connector’s pin have been tinned with solder, you will only heat the wire until it is hot enough to have solder flow between the pin and the wire. Note the use of a vise to hold the connector.

7 Here you see the female connector with the wires soldered to it and shrink tubing applied. Two servos share a common pin on the connector for the negative lead coming from the radio’s receiver.

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4-INTO-1 WIRING HARNESS

8

9

The female connector comes from the wing and mates to the male connector that will marry to the fuselage’s root section. You must isolate the soldered connects with heat shrink to avoid shorts—do it well!

10

11

I made the hole in the fuselage just big enough for the wires to fit through. Then I used Goop® on the back side of the connect to glue it in place in the socked in the fuselage’s root section.

involves making a single plug connection between the aircraft’s wing and the fuselage.

In this article I’ll show you how I fabricate a Multiplex®-type plug that connects four servos to four channels on the radio’s receiver by way of one connection at the joint of wing root to fuselage.

This plug is very easy to make, but it does require a bit of planning, wire cutting and stripping, soldering, shrink tubing, and then gluing into the fuselage’s root section.

I suggest you start by buying a high-quality, Weller®-brand soldering iron. It must have temperature control so that you can set the iron’s 74

This shows the complete plug. Be extremely careful to observe polarities or you could ruin a servo. Also, note that your radio’s receiver has a bus that shares a common connection for plus and minus voltages respectively.

RC SPORT FLYER — JULY 2013

This is what the connection looks like inside the fuselage of the airplane.

It is much cleaner and more secure than if you had multiple servo plugs connecting to each servo’s lead.

tip temperature relative to the work.

Also, you must “tin” the tip of the iron with a high-quality solder before you start this process. Tinning an iron is easy. Just clean the tip with goodquality solder flux and then flow the solder onto the tip. Doing so will let the tip of the iron transfer the heat to the part being soldered.

I also suggest you have either a vise or some type of clamp that can hold the parts steady while you apply the heat and the solder to them. This will help prevent “cold” solder joints, which have very high resistance—a no-no in this business.

Follow the photo captions for my step-by-step procedure.

Suppliers BP Hobbies LLC 115 Stryker Lane Build 4 Unit 10 Hillsborough, NJ 08844 Phone: 908-431-5603 bphobbies.com Esprit Model 1240 Clearmont St NE, Unit 12 Palm Bay, FL 32905 Phone: 321-729-4287 espritmodel.com

1815 South Research Loop Tucson, Arizona 85710 Phone: (520) 722-0607 E-mail: info@desertaircraft.com Web Site: desertaircraft.com

DA-200

Price $2795

Displacement: 12.20 cin (200 cc) Output: 19 hp Weight: 10.95 lb (4.95 kilos) Length: 9.625 in. (244 mm) Warranty: Two Years

DA-150

Price $1395

Displacement: 9.15 ci (150 cc) Output: 16.5 hp Weight: 7.96 lb (3.61 kilos) Length: 7.67 in. (195 mm) Warranty: Three year

DA-100L

Price $999

Displacement: 6.10 ci (100 cc) Output: 9.8 hp Weight: 5.57 lb (2.53 kilos) Length: 6.5 in. (162.5 mm) Warranty: Three year

DA-50-R

Price $595

Displacement: 3.05 ci (50 cc) Output: 5.0 hp Weight: 2.94 lb (1.33 kilos) Length: 6.7 (170 mm) Warranty: Three year

DA-170

Price $1695

Displacement: 10.48 ci (171.8 cc) Output: 18 hp Weight: 8.05 lb (3.56 kilos) Length: 7.67 in. (195 mm) Warranty: Three year

DA-120

Price $1199

Displacement: 7.4 ci (121 cc) Output: 11 hp Weight: 4.95 lb (2.25 kilos) Length: 6.25 in. (159 mm) Warranty: Three year

DA-85

Price $795

Displacement: 5.24 ci (85.9 cc) Output: 8.5 hp Weight: 4.3 lb (1.95 kilos) Length: 5.9 in. (150 mm) Warranty: Three year

BY Wil Byers

TRANSMITTER CASES KEEP YOUR 2.4-GHz Tx CLEAN, DRY AND PERFORMING WELL

Heather shows us how easy it is to pack your transmitter and accessories to the RC airfield inside Spektrum’s protective aluminum case.

D

on’t get on my case about keeping my radio systems clean and working well! I make certain they are well kept. In fact, I’m kind of obsessivecompulsive about it. I think you must be if you want your radio system to perform at its optimum. You see, we are not flying toy airplanes! Rather, we are flying remotely piloted vehicles (RPV)—in the purest sense of the words.

It really, really bugs me when I get to the RC airfield and see fellow RCers take their airplane’s radio gear out of the trunk of their car—a place where it has been stored for the last few months. Then they throw a quick charge on the transmitter’s battery pack as well as the receiver’s pack.

The next thing you know, they are flying their airplane around other pilots that could become targets for their out-of-control aircraft.

Moreover, it just pushes me over the top when I look at their radio transmitter and see dirt and grime filling its gimbals, switches and sliders.

I can’t help thinking to myself that this is an accident just waiting to happen.

I think this way because I know definitely that electrons like to flow through low resistance circuits. It is pretty basic electrical engineering; i.e., power is equal to current square 76

RC SPORT FLYER — JULY 2013

times resistance (P = I2R). In other words if you get dirt into your radio’s component parts it could and does raise electric resistance in the circuit that the electrons must flow through, which absolutely reduces performance—in our world that means less control or radio-signaltransmission range.

Also, dirt and crud in switches, sliders and on the LCD display can and will impact how they work or whether you can see what the radio’s screen is displaying. It is as simple as saying, “Keep it clean if you really want to optimize performance of your airplane’s radio control system.”

Case It One of the simplest ways to keep your radio transmitter clean and safe from damage is to purchase a transmitter case. There are many to choose from, and some are custom made to fit your brand of radio.

Because I have multiple brands, I have cases for all my radios. They are a very inexpensive solution to keeping your transmitter running well.

What I like about using a case is fundamental. I like them primarily because they keep the dust and dirt out of the radio, especially if I’m at an airfield or slope site that is dusty.

Cases also keep the moisture out in the event that I get caught out during a rainstorm or even if it is just a foggy, damp morning. Furthermore, a case will protect the radio against

TRANSMITTER CASES

The Spektrum case is very durable, has two lockable clasps on it and includes a ribbed seal around the opening.

As you can see, my Spektrum case fits that radio, the charger, some extra receivers, bind plugs, neck strap and even extra servos.

My DX18 transmitter’s case is custom made specifically for the radio.

The radio fits perfectly into its slot, which accepts the radio vertically.

Futaba’s 18MZ case is very high quality as well. It too is lockable, has a nice handle and sports the FASST logo on its side.

Here you see that the Futaba case holds the radio in its horizontal position, with foam cushioning on top to keep it tightly in place.

My Hitec RCD case is made to fit the Aurora 9 perfectly. Again, there is room for the charger, a neck strap, cables and extra receivers.

damage to the control sticks, switches and levers. I know you too have probably seen the pilot’s radio that has bent switches and even possibly bad control sticks due to FOLLOW US ON TWITTER @RCSPORTFLYER

being dropped or crushed. I find it pretty amazing that a pilot would fly with a damaged transmitter, but then these are the pilots who think they are flying harmless toys—go figure,

right? Anyway, at least use a case to get your radio transmitter back and forth to the airfield. It will protect it while it is in the car.

I like to use branded cases RC-SF.COM

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TRANSMITTER CASES

When you use the Hitec case you’ll have everything you need to for a day of RC flying inside the case and ready for use.

AFHSS is proudly displayed on the side of the transmitter’s case. This case is also lockable and comes with a nice, comfortable carry handle.

Jeti’s case is well designed. It too is lockable, has a comfortable carry handle and is blazened with the Jeti Duplex logo.

The Jeti DC-16 radio transmitter fits in its Jeti case very well. While it is not shown, the Tx charge fits in the case perfectly too.

because they are designed to fit the radio and its support components, such as its battery charger, extra receivers, USB cables and now even telemetry displays. You can throw in a bind plug, neck strap, small adjustment wrenches, etc..

Also, you can lock your case against letting someone inside that might tinker with your transmitter to see how you’ve programmed it—I hate discovering that my otherwise good buddy erased one of my radio’s airplanes that I had saved to memory or tweaked its setup.

If you really must economize, you can buy a case from another source such as Harbor Freight. However, you must realize that those cases are not designed to fit your respective transmitter, which could mean a poor, loose fit. What you do not want is for the radio transmitter to rattle around 78

RC SPORT FLYER — JULY 2013

inside the case during transit. That too can and will result in damage to your radio transmitter over time. The point here is that you get what you pay for with respect to protecting your radio system from damage.

I like how my radios fit their branded cases such that I don’t worry about them being damaged in transit or otherwise. Also, it is very nice to have places in the case for the radio’s tools, chargers, bind plugs, etc.. That way I know that when I arrive at the airfield everything I need for my radio transmitter is in the case with the radio.

Finally, it is nice to just be able to grab my fieldbox, airplane and transmitter case and then be ready to go to the airfield. I like showing off my brand of radio too, but then that is an argument for another day.

Suppliers Esprit Model 1240 Clearmont St NE, Unit 12 Palm Bay, FL 32905 Phone: 321-729-4287 Espritmodel.com Great Planes P.O. Box 9021 Champaign, IL 61821 Phone: 800-637-7660 Greatplanes.com Hitec RCD 12115 Paine Street Poway, CA 92064 Phone: 858-748-6948 hitecrcd.com Horizon Hobby 4105 Fieldstone Road Champaign, IL 61822 Phone: 217-352-1913 Horizonhobby.com

™

© 2012 Hobbico, Inc. All rights reserved. 3074574 AnyLink, SLT and Transmitter-Ready (Tx-R) are trademarks of Hobbico®, Inc.

BY Wil Byers

MAKE THIS ICONIC PACIFIC THEATER WARBIRD YOUR SCALE PICK

CORSAIR 50 In the air, the Corsair XF4U-1 flies as well as it looks. It will have you feeling like a real fighter pilot almost from the minute it takes off.

D

eveloped by Chance Vought in February 1939, the XF4U-1 started the Marine Corps’ historic path into fighter aviation. The XF4U-1 has become one of the most recognized World War II aircraft of all time, with its gull wing and big, powerful radial engine turning a huge propeller.

Initial evaluations by the U.S. Navy (USN), as the F4U-1 Corsair, the aircraft proved too dangerous to operate from carriers. Pilots had a difficult time landing the Corsair on the carrier decks because of the 80

RC SPORT FLYER — JULY 2013

HANGAR 9® CORSAIR 50

Your Hangar 9 Corsair will come with a pilot in the cockpit, which adds much to the airplane’s realism, especially when it is in flight.

Your pilot will even have a full cluster of instruments to use while on a sortie. Much of the detail work on the Corsair has been done at the factory.

The Corsair is distinguished by its unique, gull-type wing and big, round radial engine up front. It simply stands out from the crowd.

aircraft’s long nose and aft cockpit design. A tendency for oil to spatter over the windscreen when the cowl flaps were opened for landing also doomed the Corsair from entering Navy service until design corrections were made in 1944.

However, because the U.S. Marine Corps (USMC) mainly operated from land-based airstrips, they were quick to adapt the Corsair to their needs. Service for the Corsair therefore began with the USMC in late 1942. It would replace the aging Grumman F4F Wildcats. The F4U-1 FOLLOW US ON TWITTER @RCSPORTFLYER

evolved from a fighter—piloted by famed Marine aces—to a lethal strike aircraft, tasked with fighter-bomber roles throughout World War II. The F4U-1D introduced significant design modifications to the Corsair that would become standard for future models. The “birdcage” canopy was replaced with the “Malcolm Hood” for better visibility. It also got twin-rack plumbing on its belly to accommodate dual drop tanks. The addition of drop tanks countered the removal of the wing’s fuel cells, increasing the aircraft’s combat

radius. The engine was upgraded from the stock Pratt & Whitney R-2800-8 to the -8W, which featured waterinjection. This gave the Corsair up to 250 more hp and an increase in speed from 417 mph to 425 mph. Most notably, the aircraft carried twice the rockets than it had previously, which then gave it a remarkable groundattack record.

After the war, the Corsair would continue to serve with the USMC and USN during the Korean War. It was then replaced by jet aircraft.

The F4U saw international service RC-SF.COM

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with the Royal Navy, Royal New Zealand Air Force, French Navy, Argentinian Navy, the Air Force of El Salvador, and the Honduran Air Force, where the Corsairs finished military service in 1979.

This aircraft has earned a place in aviation lore as the “Bent Wing Bird.” It therefore deserves a place in your hangar of scale RC aircraft.

Through the wing opening, the servos, battery and wing servo connections are easily reached. The remote receiver attaches to the balsa with double-sided tape.

The Evolution .52 engine gets securely bolted to the engine mount with 4-40 machine screws and locking nuts. Be sure to use thread lock on the bolts.

AIRPLANE

The Hangar 9® F4U-1D Corsair 50 almost-ready-to-fly model is built of lightweight balsa and lite plywood, is powered by either a .46- or .55-size two-stroke glow or .72- or .82-size fourThe front of the fuel tank gets supported by the stroke Power 46 firewall. A slight bend was required on the throttle gas engine, and has linkage to eliminate strain on the clevis. a fiberglass cowl. It comes with a dummy motor, firewall, fuel tank, wheels, landing gear, hardware, pushrods, decals and a manual. The fuselage, wings and stabilizers came factory built and were superbly covered.

A large cutout in the bottom of the fiberglass cowling was made to facilitate engine-cooling airflow. Fueling is done by way of the fuel filter.

USED

• Motor Evolution .52NX glow • Propeller Evolution 11 x 6 • Servos (5) JR DS821 digital sport • Transmitter Spektrum® DX8 2.4-GHz • Receiver Spektrum AR8000 DSM2 2.4-GHz • Receiver battery JR 6-volt 5S 2500-mAh NiMH • Adhesives 30-min epoxy, thin/medium cyanoacrylate (CA)

IN FLIGHT

Let me first explain that I don’t fly a lot of warbirds, even though I 82

RC SPORT FLYER — JULY 2013

The photo pass shows why the Corsair is such an iconic airplane both in full scale and as a model. No other airplane presents like this one!

HANGAR 9® CORSAIR 50 The model came with a simulated radial engine that is made of vacuumformed plastic. It adds scale detailing to the Corsair that you’ll want in a fighter.

Balancing the propeller is an essential part of aircraft assembly. This propeller is in need of balancing before it can be placed on the Evolution .52 engine.

This photo shows the gear extended.

Notice the loop in the gear strut, which is designed to provide a bit of shock absorption on landings.

Gear up, the wheel rotates 90 degrees and tucks nicely into the wing, which cleans up the airplane to reduce drag.

think they are absolutely the best-looking models you’ll see at any RC airfield. There is just something about a warbird sitting on the flight line that makes me stop and take a second look. When it comes to the Corsair it has a special place in my heart, having watched the Baa Baa Black Sheep TV series for nearly every episode. I learned to love the WWII Black Sheep Squadron as well as the rough and ready Pappy Boyington flying his Corsair against the enemy in the Solomon Islands.

So, when I got a chance to fly the Hangar 9 Corsair I would be damned if I was going to pass it on to another reviewer—NOT going to happen.

What you will find with this model—and I’m certain the 60-cc size will be even better—is that it flies like a fighter. It is not going to slow down and fly like a 40-size trainer. It will, however, go where you point it and deliver some fun aerobatics.

To see what this warbird was all about, I wanted some stick time. So it was off to the RC airfield.

After the engine was warmed and ready for flight, I taxied the airplane onto the runway and lined it up with the center line. I was told by a friend that the Corsair’s tail would come up quickly and that I should be ready FOLLOW US ON TWITTER @RCSPORTFLYER

Here you see its very distinctive gull wing, as well as that big, round radial engine cowling. The .52NX glowpowered engine works well in this model.

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The aileron linkage on the Corsair is very clean and functional. There is a simple Z-bend at the servo and a clevis at the control horn—very neat.

In flight the ailerons, elevator, and rudder are very effective, so you can loop, roll and even knife-edge this scale warbird.

to add right rudder control. What I found as I gradually applied power was that you can drive the airplane down the centerline with just a bit of right rudder. The tail did come up rather quickly, but not as soon as I would have thought. Once it was up, the airplane’s yaw control was excellent by way of rudder and the airplane running on its mains, so just a bit of right rudder kept it flying straight down the runway. I kept it on the ground for about 200 feet before easing back on the elevator control.

Once the airplane was in the air I added full power and the Corsair 84

RC SPORT FLYER — JULY 2013

climbed well. At about 100 feet I leveled the model and commenced a left turn to set up a downwind leg.

On that leg I found that the model needed about four clicks of left aileron trim to fly level. It needed no elevator trim with the power set at about 40 percent. Pulling the power back to about 10 percent I made another left turn and let the model’s nose drop so I could dive it for a camera pass down the runway. Talk about fun! This airplane really feels solid in the air.

Down at runway level I applied about 20 percent power and just

let the model fly down the runway about 10 feet off the ground. At the far end of the runway I pulled its nose up and climbed the model to about 200 feet, whereupon I had the Corsair performed a Split-S. This was followed by another runway pass for the cameraman, and another Split-S at the base-end of the runway.

Then I found you really must double-check the electric-powered retractable landing gear in the pit area to make sure you have it working properly. This is because if you don’t you’re not going to have it work in the air. Consequently, I flew

HANGAR 9® CORSAIR 50

Again, the elevator’s linkage is very well done. It exits the airplane and makes a short run right to the clevis and then to the control—it is tight and slop free.

this entire flight with the gear down.

Even so, I found that this model is really pretty fast if you push the throttle full up. It is also very responsive to aileron control. The rudder is powerful as well, which means you can drive this airplane down the runway in knife-edge if you have the skills. My knife-edge passes are not glamorous, but they’re fun for me, so I do them no matter who is watching. This model delivers nice round loops too if you manage the throttle on the uplines as well as the downlines.

A super fun part of flying this FOLLOW US ON TWITTER @RCSPORTFLYER

The tail wheel control is very effective on the ground for taxiing. You’ll be able to put the airplane right where you want it on the runway.

model is the landings. You must set the model up for landing like you would with any airplane. Fly a nice pattern, and be sure to use the rudder to keep the turns coordinated. Also, be careful that when you pull the throttle back fast the motor does not die. My first landing with my Corsair was done deadstick—oops. Flying the Corsair deadstick is no big deal as long as the model is high and you keep its airspeed above stall. My Corsair was at about 100 feet when the power quit. As a result, I let its nose drop a bit, maintained its airspeed and then

turned it onto final. Unfortunately, I had to turn onto final on the downwind leg, which meant that the airplane had more ground speed than I would have otherwise liked.

Even so, I just flew the airplane into the pattern and then bled off the airspeed, flying it like a big, warbird glider down the runway. I overshot the end of the runway by about 100 feet or so, which meant I had to set it down in the mown grass. The model landed without incident; albeit, when the gear final had sunk into the grass the model flipped on its back. The result was very minor damage to the RC-SF.COM

85

This beauty shot shows you how good-looking the Corsair is even just waiting for its Evolution engine to be fired up.

Here you see the tail wheel has come up on the takeoff roll. Once the tail is up the rudder does its job well!

vertical fin. Five minutes of work and a bit of CA glue had the model fixed.

HANGAR DEBRIEF

Here is what I’m trying to tell you about warbirds: They are a blast to fly. You should not be intimidated by them. They are definitely not “Sporty 40” type airplanes. That said, if you do a little practice flying on a flight simulator before going to the airfield, a warbird is nothing to get overly nervous about piloting. I would, however, caution that you not slow these types of airplanes down in the turns because they will tip stall.

The same applies to making a final approach. Keep the airspeed up and fly the airplane into ground effect.

Then slow it down by easing back on the elevator control. The model will then settle onto the runway. Also, keep flying the airplane once it is on the ground. Do not just relax on the controls. You are going to need to fly it until its tail touches the runway.

Then you are going to need to drive the model down the centerline to its respective taxiway.

Again, I want to underscore that I am not a contest winning aerobatic pilot or a Top Gun flyer.

I am, however, an okay Sunday flyer

Manage the throttle and the fuel and you will not do as I did and need to land it deadstick. If so, however, fly it like a big glider to landing.

Specifications

Distributor Horizon Hobby 4105 Fieldstone Road Champaign, IL 61822 Phone: 217-352-1913 horizonhobby.com

86

RC SPORT FLYER — JULY 2013

Here my Corsair is making a gear pass for the cameraman to capture a few photos as the airplane flies by.

Wingspan

57 in.

Wing area

62 in.2

Overall length

45.5 in.

Flying weight

6.75-8 lb (3.1-3.6 oz)

Motor

Evolution .52NX glow

Propeller

Evolution 11 x 6

Servos

(5) JR DS821 digital sport

Transmitter

Spektrum DX8 2.4-GHz

Receiver

Spektrum AR8000 DSM2 2.4-GHz

Receiver battery

JR 5S 2500-mAh NiMH 6-volt

Retracts

Eflite™ 25–46-size 100 degree

HANGAR 9® CORSAIR 50

You’ll want to keep the airplane on the ground long enough to build up airspeed for takeoff, then ease back on the elevator control.

just like the thousands of you that go to work every day to make a living.

Yeah, I know I sit in the editor’s chair, but that just means I’m focused on content. It does not mean I’m out flying every day for the fun of it.

What it means to you is that you too should be flying a warbird. You’ll have an absolute blast getting on your buddy’s six, doing strafing runs,

dropping bombs, flying Split-S turns, our website for you to download. loops, you name it. It is just way, way So, stay tuned to this magazine for cool to be a warbird pilot. updates and future warbird articles.

Now, if I can get one of the new Just to be redundant, get a 60-cc Corsairs when they come in warbird. You’ll love it! (before they sell out), I’ll give you a complete report. I’ll even put my DX18’s Control Throws High Rates (Up/Down) Low Rates (Up/Down) programming setup Aileron 5/8 / 1/2 in.

3/8 / 5/16 in. for the Corsair on Elevator 9/16 in.

5/16 in.

ASSEMBLY Let me start this short assembly report by telling you that Horizon Hobby has replaced this model with their newer Corsair F4U-1D 60-cc ARF (HAN4760). This new warbird sports an 85.5-in. wingspan. Importantly, it is now powered by a 3.1–3.6 -size, twocycle, gas-powered engine. It has a set of flaps that will slow this fighter down for carrier-type landings. Additionally, you can add a set of smoking-hot, electric-powered retracts to the aircraft to give it a real warbird look in the air, especially as they slowly retract into the wings—cool!

I’m going to share a quick set of assembly steps in this article just so you see how my Corsair came together. Hopefully, I’ll be sharing the 60-cc version with you in the very near future. Suffice it to say, I want one bad!

I started the build by taking any wrinkles out of the model’s covering, which was fantastic, so it needed little if any tightening…

The wing joiners fit into the panels on the center and outer wing segments well. You’ll need to join the center wing to the two outer wings, using low-tack tape to hold them together until the epoxy cures. Then two thin strips of covering will hide the wing joints. It’s pretty straightforward and simple.

The ailerons get hinged with CA-type hinges. I placed a T-pin in the center of each hinge as a way to make certain they extend into each wing the proper distance. Be careful to align the ailerons

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Once it’s off the ground you can push the throttle full up and the airplane will climb out at a good 60-degree angle.

Rudder

+/- 2-1/4 in.

+/- 1-1/4 in.

to the wing panels so there is an equal amount of space for the control surfaces’ gaps between them and the wing panels.

The servos attach to their respective covers and screw to wooden blocks. You’ll need to align the servo to the top of the blocks and mark and drill holes for the servo screws. It’s easy!

Remember to harden the screw holes with CA. You won’t have any trouble with the engine install. It goes into the airframe as per the manual’s details. The motor box is marked for the engine type, so it takes the guesswork out of fitting the engine to the airframe. Note that the manual provides a good, regimented order to the assembly. Hangar 9 is known for wellwritten manuals that take you step by step through an assembly/ build. So, do not skip forward in the procedure—go step by step and you will have a gorgeous model when you are done.

I’ll add that you must use low-tack tape to protect the covering material where necessary. Also, use denatured alcohol to remove any glue that may get on the airplane.

Finally, expect to spend a week of evenings getting this model built. It will probably require the good part of a Saturday too to get it set up properly and safely ready for flight. I had a friend run a couple of tanks of fuel through my model’s engine to break it in.

He also programmed the radio system for me, so he saved me a few hours of setup time—not to mention delivering it to the RC airfield for the maiden flight.

RC-SF.COM

87

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Get today’s hottest deal in 6-channels: Futaba 6J.

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futaba-rc.com/102r © 2011 Hobbico®, Inc. All rights reserved. 3137278 The Futaba® logo and name are registered trademarks of Futaba Corporation. Futaba is distributed by Great Planes Model Distributors®, Champaign, IL, 61826, U.S.A.

BY Wil Byers

Multiplex has done an excellent job of designing their new Solius LMR glider, which results in good climb performance and soaring that will yield you hours of relaxing fun and enjoyment.

MULTIPLEX SOLIUS RR

RECEIVER READY,THIS BIRD IS ALL ABOUT SOARING FUN

90

RC SPORT FLYER — JULY 2013

MULTIPLEX SOLIUS RR

L

imited motor run (LMR) gliders take the work out of soaring.

They do so because when you fly an LMR glider you no longer have to chase a launch/retrieval system in order to get the model airborne. Rather, you just hit the “gas” and go. The electric motor and propeller do the work of getting the glider to altitude, at which point the motor stops, the propeller folds and the soaring then begins.

I’m a huge fan of LMR gliders. I’m a huge fan of this new Multiplex® Solius receiver ready (RR) glider too because it is absolutely one of the easiest airplanes to assemble I’ve ever owned, and because it flies well.

The new Solius not only looks good coming out of its kit box, it is well made and designed. If you buy one you will discover that your money will have been well spent.

You’ll get everything you need in this receiver-ready version with the exception of radio transmitter, receiver and LiPo battery pack. This new LMR glider even comes with its color scheme applied. That means all you are going to need to ready this model for flight is to add a receiver, install a battery pack and program your transmitter to control it. Even then, the airplane’s setup is basic and easy to do. You can even use a basic template in your transmitter to set up the glider for flight—no need to use a glider-specific template to fly this model. Not even—it uses the basic controls of ailerons, elevator, rudder and motor control, just like most power airplanes.

The Solius’ brushless outrunner motor comes installed, with spinner and propeller already attached. The 40-amp-rated speed controller also comes installed, however, I changed the battery’s connector.

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Dakota provides a beautiful reference for the size of the new Solius glider, which sports an 85-in. wingspan and gets power from a brushless BL-O 3516-0850 outrunner motor and 12 x 6 propeller.

The receiver is buried in the fuselage behind the battery. I chose to use the Hitec Optima 6 Lite because it is small and fits the glider well.

RC-SF.COM

91

KIT CONTENTS

• Fuselage Elapor w/motor installed • Wings Two-piece w/ built-in joiner • Motor Mutiplex Permax BL-O 3516-0850 • Electronic Speed Control Multiplex MULTIcont 40-amp w/ BEC • Servos (4) nano installed • Propeller Plastic 12x6 folding • Spinner White plastic 2.2-in. (55 mm) • Landing Gear Belly & tail • Canopy Clear plastic

You need not do any building because all the controls are factory installed. Here you see the rudder’s linkage, which is clean and slop free!

Even the connections to the ailerons’ servos come factory done. They did an exceptional job of making sure everything is neat and well built.

Look at the quality of these covers and the linkages.

You will get a model that has been well designed and made. And well built.

You’re going to love this landing gear because in combination with the tail wheel, they will let you glide the Solius in for touch-and-go landings.

I’ve got my Solius lined up on final and ready to come in for a touch-and-go landing. The belly and tail wheels make them possible if you land it with enough speed to relaunch and hit the “gas” again.

92

RC SPORT FLYER — JULY 2013

MULTIPLEX SOLIUS RR

Even the trim scheme for Solius comes factory done.

You’ll install the battery and receiver and program the radio—that’s it.

The elevator’s control linkage is positive and well designed. There is no slop in it, so you’ll have 100% positive control of the glider’s pitch.

NEEDED TO COMPLETE

• Radio 6-channel min. (Aurora 9 used) • Receiver Hitec Optima 6 Lite • Battery 3S 11.1-volt Lipo E-flite 2200-mAh used (w/ changed connectors on the ESC) • Charger Hitec multi charger X4

IN THE AIR

Multiplex even thought to add a tail wheel. In so doing, they gave you the option of landing this little glider on paved airstrips, but without tearing up the foam on the bottom of the glider.

After pumping some electrons into the E-flite® 2200-mAh LiPo pack that powers the Solius, I did my obligatory radio range check of the Hitec Aurora 9 system. As I expected the radio system tested well. Then it was off to the my club’s RC airfield for the test flying.

At the airfield, I did one last control check and motor test run to make certain that I had the controls running the proper directions and that the power system was functioning well.

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RC-SF.COM

93

Then I added about 60 percent power and gave the glider a solid forward throw, without any sidearm.

Be sure you throw an LMR glider straight ahead. Do not give it a roundhouse throw or you will induce a rolling moment into the model.

If you throw your Solius straight forward you will be rewarded with it climbing immediately following launch. With about 60 percent power my model was climbing at about a 20-degree angle. When I pushed the throttle full it commenced climbing at about a 60-degree angle.

Once at altitude, I began to check the model’s trim in roll and pitch.

The Solius need no up trim, but it did require about four clicks of left trim to fly level. I found the rudder to

be very responsive to control. I also found that if you lead the turns with just a bit of rudder this model will reward you with very coordinated turns. You’ll find that the elevator control is excellent and not overly sensitive, as set according to the instruction manual.

The model will loop and roll. Rolls are not super fast, so have the model at altitude when you do your first one. Also, the Solius is suprisingly fast for a foam glider. It seems that the wings are quite strong and will tolerate a bit of speed without fluttering. Stalls are quite benign.

You’ll find that the model will break on stall, and that you’re going to need between 30 and 50 feet of altitude to recover from one.

Crank this glider up on a wingtip and pull on the elevator and you are going to be pleasantly surprised at how well this glider is going to circle.

I put it up on a tip and pulled hard so the cameraman could get photos. I did not feel that the model was going to tip stall or fall out of the turn.

Note that I did keep the airspeed up and I “flew” it through the turns.

While I did not get a tip stall I can guarantee you that it will if you pull too hard on the elevator or slow it too much, so keep enough speed to stay away from a stall.

As far as I’m concerned, an LMR glider must be able to soar. While the morning that I test flew the Solius it was cool and thermals were not yet really developing, I was able to find

You are going to enjoy the power that the Multiplex brushless BL-O 3516-0850 outrunner motor delivers. You can just hit the gas and take your Solius up for flight after flight. At altitude you’ll pull the throttle back, let the propeller fold and then you can go thermal searching.

The model has a good glide ratio as well as a good minimum sinking speed.

ASSEMBLY Let me explain that the Solius is not molded styrofoam. So, don’t use white or epoxy glue if you need to make repairs. Instead, be sure to use medium cyanoacrylate glue, with an activator. It will work well, and repairs will take just minutes to make.

Assembling your new Solius is only going to take a few minutes. To do so, you will unpack it. Install a receiver and add a 2200-mAh LiPo battery pack.

If you are using an Aurora 9, or a Hitec 6-channel transmitter, I suggest you pick the Optima 6 Lite receiver for this glider. It is the perfect match for this model. It has excellent radio range and more than enough channels for the functions of this LMR glider.

I installed an E-flite battery pack in my Solius. The electronic speed controller does not come with the E-flite EC3 connectors, so I changed the connector on the ESC to the EC3 type. This will take you about 10 minutes to do, and you’ll need to buy a male EC3 connector, which will cost a couple of bucks.

94

RC SPORT FLYER — JULY 2013

The receiver gets installed behind the battery and between the wings, in the center of the fuselage. That will take you another 10 minutes to do. You’ll also need to mount the elevator to the vertical stabilizer, which should not take more than about two minutes.

If you are using an Aurora 9 transmitter, I recommend you use the basic airplane setup. It will let you have the throttle control on the throttle stick, with the ailerons, rudder and elevator going to their respective ports on the receiver. Programming the transmitter then is quick and easy. If, however, you want to have the Crow feature for the ailerons you may want to use the sailplane program and then use a switch on the transmitter for motor control as off and on. Either program should not take you more than 30 minutes to set up in the transmitter.

Then you’ll be ready to charge and fly!

MULTIPLEX SOLIUS RR lift and circle a bit. What is important to you is that this little glider indicates lift well. It does so with its wings, and in pitch. I had no trouble seeing a wing rise, or its tail too, as it hit lift.

Finally, landing this model is just fun. Because it has a belly wheel and a tail wheel you can just fly it onto the runway—you can do touch-andgo landings if you carry enough speed onto the runway to take off again.

As you can see, when the propeller folds on the Solius it is a pure soaring machine, ready to expoit some hot, rising air. That is where the fun really begins!

IT’S A BUY

Truly, the Solius is a buy when you consider it comes receiver ready for only $359.99. Factor in the building time that you would otherwise need to invest and it is a steal.

The Solius is designed with a Schumann type wing planform for good low-speed thermalling.

I found it to be extremely stall resistant, even when I was circling tightly and at low speed.

Specifications Wingspan

85 in.

Length

43.3 in.

Down

Weight

44 oz built as glider 51oz electric powered

Control throws Up Elevator

0.39 in.

0.39 in.

Weight

Ailerons

0.59 in.

0.31 in.

Wing area

630 in.2

Spoilers

0.59 in.

Wing loading

10.6–11.7 oz/ft2

Airfoil

Flat bottom

Price

$359.99 towerhobbies.com

Spoiler Mixer 0.079 (elevator trim compensation) Rudder

0.98 in. (+/-)

Center of Gravity Because the Solius has a belly and a tail wheel, you can land it on paved runways without the worry of tearing up the fuselage’s foam underbelly.

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2.7-in. aft of the wing root’s leading edge at fuselage

Distributor Hitec RCD / Multiplex USA 12115 Paine Street Poway, CA 92064 Phone: 858-748-6948 hitecrcd.com

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UMX CARBON CUB SS

JANUARY 2013 VOLUME 18 ISSUE 01

NEW HOT PRODUCTS SAILPLANE P 26

OCTOBER 2012

OF CHANGE

D.Va REVIEW P

WE FLY THE FLYZONE® & E-FLITE® CORSAIRS

AT WHAT PHOTO LOOK AS3X DELIVERS IN THIS SPREAD LITTLE BUSH PLANE

ARF Warbird RC-SF.COM

2WARBIRDS TESTED

FACES

FOR 2013 P PARKZONE ALBATROS

NEW ALES SKILLS P ALBATROS

UGE O HW AC

HAWKER SEA FURY

PIII F3F RACER

VISALIA FALL SOARING FESTIVAL 2012

GETS YOU UP & SOARING

HOT 26NEW PRODUCTS

e

THE FACES OF CHANGE

SEE HOW TO HONE YOUR PILOTING SKILLS

Albatros D.Va Review pg 104

World’s Most In-Depth RC Aircraft Magazin

MAGAZINE

6-HONE YOUR PILOTING GLIDER P REALFLIGHT

OLERC PIII F3F RACER P AEROWORKS CARBON CUB SS P E-FLITE UMX CARBON CUB SS P 2 WARBIRDS TESTED

FLYZONE CALYPSO

SEE THE CALYPSOACTION @ GLIDER

REPORT

USA & CANADA $6.49

CARBON CUB SS Build Part I

RC SPORT FLYER

Aircraft Magazine

RC SPORT FLYER MAGAZINE

RC SPORT FLYER MAGAZINE

NEW ALESSailplane pg 64 World’s Most In-Depth RC

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RC SPORT FLYER — JULY 2013

THEMystery AIRPLANE

WIN

A FREE SPORT FLYER HAT

Give us the name of the airplane to WIN! SUBMISSION INFORMATION Please e-mail your response to support@rc-sf.com or mail a letter to Kiona Publishing ATTN: RC-SF 18-07 Contest P.O. Box 4250 W Richland, WA 99353 Submissions must be received by 09/20/2013

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Final Print size: 6’ x 3’

CORRECTION

In last month’s issue on page 17, we inadvertantly told you that the wooden frames for Ben Berry’s multirotors were made

by DYI. That is wrong.

They are designed and sold by BlueSkyRC.com

RC-SF.COM

97

T

H

E

P AR R T E OF C IS IO N E-flite® Carbon-Z ® Splendor™ BNF Basic Airplane

EFL10250 > Easy to complete, bolt-on final assembly > Exceptionally strong Carbon-Z wing and fuselage structure > AS3X System for precision and agility without equal > Spektrum AR635 6-channel AS3X sport receiver installed > Brushless 1300-watt Q-Power motor system installed > Digital, 26 g, high-speed, metal-gear mini servos installed > Durable, CA-hinged control surfaces with control links installed > E-flite 60-Amp Pro SB Brushless ESC (V2) installed Requires 6S 22.2V 3200mAh 30C Li-Po battery (EFLB32006S30) and balance charger (EFLC3025) and a 6-channel DSM2®/DSMX® aircraft transmitter with adjustable D/R and expo.

54.5 in (1380mm)

645 sq in (41.5 sq dm) 5.50 lb (2.50 kg)

56.5 in (1440mm)

The E-flite® Carbon-Z® Splendor™ airplane is everything the modern world of precision flying has to offer. Besides the ability to perform elegant F3A sequence aerobatics, it’s capable enough to also perform dramatic 3D. Harnessing the benefits of Carbon-Z construction throughout its large all-molded airframe, F3A World Aerobatic Champion Quique Somenzini combined a potent power system, high-quality E-flite digital servos and reliability together in a modern design. When at the controls, its crisp response offers compelling accuracy, allowing you to draw laserstraight lines, snap crisply, lock in every roll point and have the vertical authority to be as aggressive or graceful as you please. Engage its onboard AR635 receiver with AS3X® technology to enhance the pedigree of its performance envelope for an inspirational experience that will change the way you’ll want to fly.

SPECIFICATIONS

Includes brushless 50-size motor delivers a nearly 1,300 watts for explosive performance. (EFLM7450).

VISIT

Your Local Retailer

CLICK

horizonhobby.com

CALL

1.800.338.4639

SERIOUS FUN.®

© 2013 Horizon Hobby, Inc. E-flite, AS3X, Bind-N-Fly, DSM2, DSMX, Serious Fun and the Horizon Hobby logo are registered trademarks of Horizon Hobby, Inc. The Spektrum trademark is used with permission of Bachmann Industries, Inc. All other trademarks, service marks and logos are property of their respective owners. 38440

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