RC Sport Flyer Sept 2013 (Vol 18-09)

First Look at Jeti DS-16 Transmitter pg 72

World’s Most In-Depth RC Aircraft Magazine

Exclusive

We Build and Fly the NEW Airborne Models

Paulistinha P-56

• • • • • USA & Canada $6.49

Aerobatics Part 6 ASK-18 Flight Report Beaufighter Build 2 Scale Competition Pilots Hot Products

rc-sf.com

September 2013

Fearless First Flight

PANIC MODE ACTIVATED

The Power of SAFE™ Technology If the fear of losing control and crashing a brand new RC airplane has kept you from taking the sticks, groundbreaking SAFE™ (Sensor Assisted Flight Envelope) technology will help you relax. An exclusive feature of the new E-flite® Apprentice® S 15e Ready-to-Fly trainer is the “Panic” switch. The instant you sense trouble, a simple flick of the switch on the included Spektrum™ DX5e transmitter quickly returns the model to level flight, no matter how out of control you think you are. But that’s only one reason why SAFE technology and the Apprentice S 15e take the fear out of flying.

Apprentice S 15e RTF FEATURES Equipped with SAFE technology for fearless flights Lightweight and durable Z-Foam™ construction Includes transmitter, power system, electronics and charger For full product details, visit E-fliteRC.com

Find the secret to fearless flight

at FLYSAFERC.com

SPECIFICATIONS Wingspan: 59.0 in (1500mm) Length: 42.5 in (1080mm) Wing Area: 515 sq in (33.2 sq dm) Flying Weight: 49.0 oz (1390 g)

ANOTHER INNOVATION BY

Sensor Assisted Flight Envelope

VISIT

Your Local Retailer

CLICK

horizonhobby.com

©2013 Horizon Hobby, Inc. E-flite, DSMX, SAFE, the SAFE logo and the Horizon Hobby logo are trademarks or registered trademarks of Horizon Hobby, Inc. The Spektrum trademark is used with permission of Bachmann Industries, Inc. All other trademarks, service marks and logos are property of their respective owners. Patents pending. 39463

CALL

1.800.338.4639

SERIOUS FUN.®

pg 52

pg 34

DEPARTMENTS

10 14 88 89

pg 14

leading edge Hot Products

Check out 42 great new buys for your hobby in our Hot Products section.

advertiser index Mystery airplane

BUILD

34

Bristol Beaufighter #2 See how construction begins on Dave’s Top Gun-winning airplane.

By David Wigley

40

Flying an ASK-18 Flight Report Part 5 of this series details how this 1/3-scale glider flies in both thermals and slope lift.

By Gene Cope

46

Dallaire Sportster Cover Preparation Learn how and why you should do proper preparation on an airframe before you cover it.

By Jeff Troy

52

6

Scale competitors Part 1I Rob interviews two contestwinning Top Gun professionals to reveal their success secrets.

By Robert J Caso RC SPORT FLYER — september 2013

how to

60

Aerobatics Part 6 Discover why building precision into your piloting is a necessary fundamental.

By Daniel Holman

See how much programming power is built into this new Jeti Tx.

pg 72

september 2013 Wind

3

Top View

pg 60

See why you must start building precision into your piloting .

2 4

pg 40

1

review

66

tameCat 40 ARF James shows you why this fun, little airplane may be a perfect pick for your next model.

By James VanWinkle

72

Jeti DS-16 In this review we take you inside and out the new Jeti DS-16 transmitter system.

By Gene Cope

80

50CC Paulistinha While this airplane may look like a Cub, it is an airplane that promises pilots a change of pace.

By Dan Deckert

pg 80

The World Models’ new 50CC Paulistinha is more than just another Cub. See how and why.

Follow us on twitter @rcsportflyer

RC-SF.COM

7

Editor in Chief: Assistant Editors:

subscribe @ RC-SF.com for only $24.95

Art Director:

Zhe Meng

graphics@rc-sf.com

Wil Byers Bess Byers

Graphic Designers:

Zhe Meng Bess Byers Shi Yuang

graphics@rc-sf.com

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Chang Liang

web@kionapublishing.com

Heather Villa

support@kionapublishing.com

Office Assistant:

YinZi Cui

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Marketing:

Wil Byers, Sue Wharton ads@rc-sf.com

Contributing Editors: Don Bailey, Rob Caso, Gene Cope, Daniel Holman, Mike Hoffmeister, Richard Kuns, Bob McGowan, Joe Nave, Vincenzo Pedrelli, Steve Rojecki, Gary Ritchie, Mike Shellim, Jerry Smith, Jeff Troy, James VanWinkle RC Sport Flyer (ISSN: 1941-3467) is published monthly for $24.95 per year by Kiona Publishing, Inc., P.O. Box 4250, W. Richland, WA 99353-4004. Periodicals postage paid at Richland, WA and additional mailing offices.

POSTMASTER: Send address changes to RC Sport Flyer, P.O. Box 4250, W. Richland, WA 99353-4004.

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Washington residents add 8.3% sales tax. Single copies $6.49 plus $3.50 S&H U.S. All payments must be in U.S. funds. Visa, Mastercard, Amex, and Discover accepted. Send to: RC Sport Flyer – Circulation, P.O. Box 4250, W. Richland, WA 99353-4004.

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Contributions: Articles and photographs are welcome, but cannot be considered unless guaranteed exclusive. When requested we will endeavor to return all materials in good condition if accompanied by return postage. RC Sport Flyer assumes no responsibility for loss of or damage to editorial contributions received. Any material accepted is subject to possible revision at the discretion of the publisher. Publisher assumes no responsibility for accuracy of content. Opinions of contributing authors do not necessarily reflect those of the publisher.

RC Sport Flyer will retain author’s rights, title to and interest in the editorial contributions as described above in both print and electronic media unless prior arrangement has been made in writing. Payment for editorial materials will be made at our current rate. Submission of editorial material to RC Sport Flyer expresses a warranty by the author that such material is in no way an infringement upon the rights of others. The contents of this magazine may not be reprinted traditionally or electronically without permission of the publisher.

FOR PRESENTATION PROJECTIONS, FLAT SCREEN MONITORS, CRT MONITORS USE

a. HEXACHROME #09195B or b. R = 9 G = 25 B = 91

FOR PRINT (Lithography, Screen printing), USE

a. PMS 294 Uncoated b. C = 95 M = 65 Y = 17 K=5

All rights reserved.

RC SPORT FLYER — september 2013

Caroline Minard Bess Byers, John Likakis, Asa Clinton

Photography:

Copyright ©2013

8

Wil Byers

wil@rc-sf.com

Printed in the USA

or

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Mustang P-51B 86” WINGSPAN 50cc Gas

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Email: info@aero-works.net 4903 Nome Street • Denver, CO 80239

WIL BYERS

I

had a little scare just over a month ago. Here is what happened. I went to visit my daughter, Bess, in Venice, California, for Father’s Day. We had an absolutely wonderful time cruising the bike path, eating some good sushi and in general just relaxing for the weekend.

As the weekend was winding down, though, Bess pointed out that I should probably see my resident oncologist about a spot I had on my right cheek. She thought it looked like the early stages of skin cancer. So it was that when I returned home I made an appointment to get in to see the doctor.

Squamous Cell Carcinoma What I learned is something I must share with you, especially the younger pilots. After all, we love being outdoors, flying our model airplanes. That means we tend to torture our skin a fair amount with respect to being exposed to damaging infrared radiation from the sun. I know my friends and I have done so to excess over the years—we would often spend the day in the sun, and do so without sun block or even a protective hat.

It’s not surprising then that when at the doctor’s office they found that the spot on my face was not skin cancer but an age spot. However, what I thought was not cancer turned out to be a squamous cell carcinoma.

A squamous cell carcinoma is the second most common type of skin cancer, accounting for approximately 20 percent of non-melanoma skin cancers. They develop from the flat, squamous cells that are the primary cell type making up the outermost layer of the skin, the epidermis.

This type of skin cancer is usually found on skin that has been exposed to the sun. It can, however, develop in other areas, such as in scars or skin ulcers. Squamous cell cancers usually grow slowly, and it is uncommon for them to spread, or metastasize, but they are more likely than basal cell carcinomas to invade fatty tissue beneath the skin or to spread even further.

What I also learned is that skin cancers include melanoma, basal cell and the squamous cell. Basal and squamous cell are common and treatment is pretty easy and very effective. On the other hand, malignant melanoma, especially in later stages, is serious and can be difficult to treat. That means it can kill you!

Use Sun Block and Wear Protective Clothing Listen, all of you RC pilots are my friends. I totally like hanging out, talking airplanes and flying with you. That means I want you around for a very long time. Moreover, I don’t want the doctor having to cut a bit of your skin away—besides your money is better spent on airplanes, not doctor visits.

Sun exposure is the biggest cause of melanoma and other skin cancers. So use sun block and wear protective clothing to keep the sun off your skin. Also, get to the doctor for a checkup at least once a year, or immediately if you see discolored skin areas. I recommend you search the Internet for more information about skin cancer. Early diagnosis and treatment does increase the survival rate from melanoma. Learn about the signs of all skin cancers, and familiarize yourself with pictures of skin cancer so you can spot it early. Remember, I want to see you at the airfield for many more years to come.

For Fun You know I’ve been editing this magazine for 18 years and writing for model magazines for many more. What happens after that many years is that you want to edit everything you see, even advertisements and street signs.

That was the case last week when I was reading a couple of RC articles at a website. Here are just a few of the things that caught my attention: “She was lightly loaded…” My translation: The airplane had too much to drink or had smoked some weed.

“Once my motor was started I took off.” Translation: His pacemaker was running at such a rate that he flew right off his deck.

“He snap rolled…” Translation: The dude is into break dancing and was seen rolling around on the street.

“He was electric powered…” Translation: This guy was messing around in a 220-volt breaker box and touched the conduction bus. That will definitely make you electric powered.

“It was an amazing plane…” Translation: He just got the best Stanley wood plane money can buy.

“It will do anything…” Translation: This is a very unusual model aircraft. It can drive you to the store, pick you up a six-pack of beer and mow the lawn.

“It has no bad habits…” Translation: This 3D airplane does not smoke, drink, do drugs, chase women or spit on the sidewalk.

“Dial in the expo…” Translation: You must attend the AMA’s 2013 Model Exposition in Ontario, California, if you want to learn lots about this great hobby..

APC Competition propellers for the intermediate and

advanced sport flyer as well as the competition community.

Over 400 pitch/diameters available ranging from slow-flyer electric to High performance Giant Scale Racers.

Visit the APC Prop Website for product selection and detailed information on product design and features.

LANDING PRODUCTS All propellers are in stock and overnight delivery is available.

Proudly made in the USA

10

RC SPORT FLYER — september 2013

1222 Harter Ave., Woodland, CA 95776 (530) 661-0399 est. 1989 by Mr. Fred Burgdorf

Maxx Products is your complete source for Electric Airplane Accessories

Mounts - Heatsink or plain mounts for beam mount Fit 20, 28, and 36 mm motors.

Heatsinks - Extruded aluminum heatsinks Fit 12, 20, 28, and 36mm motors.

Prop Adapters - Over 20 types and counting, Collet and set screw type prop adapters and prop savers Fit 2mm, 2.3mm, 3mm, 1/8”, 4mm, 5/32”, 5mm, 6mm, & 8mm motor shafts.

Spinners - 29, 38, 44 and 50mm lightweight polished aluminum spinners - Fit 2 to 5mm motor shafts.

Gearboxes - Assorted planetary and offset gearboxes to fit a variety of motors.

Tools - Universal Pinion Puller. Universal Extracting Tool

1570 Switch - This simple switch temporarily disconnects BEC power to the radio system between flights.

• Micro wire (32AWG) extensions, Y-harness, switch harness for small electric airplanes, • Full line of Himax Brushless motors and gear motors, • Full line of ferrite motors and high performance cobalt & neodymium motors, Micro servos, micro receivers, and battery packs.

Visit Our Website to See the Complete Line!

Get The Most For Your Hobby Dollar, Visit Your Local Hobby Shop!

Wheels - Light weight wheels with strong hubs Sizes: 1.25”, 1.5”, 2”, 2.5”, and 3.00”

Exclusive Distributor

MAXX Products International, Inc. 815 Oakwood Rd., Unit D, Lake Zurich, IL 60047, USA Ph: 847-438-2233 Fax: 847-438-2898

www.maxxprod.com

Hot New Gliders From Competitive Pricing • Superb Service & Support

Online & Phone Ordering • World-Wide Shipping

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AUTHORIZED DEALER FOR:

(626) 967-6660 Monday - Friday 9am - 4pm, PST E-Mail: info@soaringusa.com

SOAR AN AEROBATIC ORIGINAL The NEW E-flite® L-13 Blanik 4.2 m ARF sailplane The E-flite® L-13 Blanik 4.2 m sailplane is a ¼-scale replica of the glider used by the internationally recognized Flying Bulls aerobatic soaring team and is ideal for aerotow or slope soaring. A remarkably versatile glider, the Blanik is as much at home riding thermals as it is performing scale sailplane aerobatics that go beyond what even the Flying Bulls dare to perform. Its Red Bull color scheme provides striking visual contrast to the genuine UltraCote® covering on the wings, tail and control surfaces. The fiberglass fuselage delivers outstanding rigidity while the two-piece balsa sheeted, carbon capped, foam wings provide great strength and the most accurate airfoil possible. Features such as flaps, a pre-installed tow release and a spacious cockpit area make this plane easy to operate and maintain. The high-quality hardware package is complete so that you won’t have to make a lot of noise in the shop getting this one-of-a-kind aerobat ready for a unique air show you’ll want to perform every chance possible.

EFL4910

> Fiberglass fuselage delivers strength and rigidity > Fully balsa-sheeted, foam-core wings and tail with carbon fiber joiners > Operational landing flaps for slower landings and speed versatility > Factory-finished, sealed hinging on the ailerons and flaps > Long-lasting, genuine UltraCote® covering > Optional electric spoilers (EFL491009)—sold separately > Hinged scale canopy for easy access > Tow release mechanism and high-quality hardware package included 165 in (4.20 m)

2030 sq in (131 sq dm)

85.5 in (2.20 m)

If making a silent Giant Scale impression appeals to you, visit E-fliteRC.com for more details or to find the closest retailer.

SPECIFICATIONS

22.0 lb (10.0 kg)

VISIT

Your Local Retailer

CLICK

horizonhobby.com

CALL

1.800.338.4639

SERIOUS FUN.®

© 2013 Horizon Hobby, Inc. E-flite, UltraCote and the Horizon Hobby logo are trademarks or registered trademarks of Horizon Hobby, Inc. The Red Bull name and likeness is used under license of Red Bull GmbH Austria. All other trademarks, service marks or logos are property of their respective owners. All rights reserved. 40901

Specifications Sbach 342

Aerobeez 365 Cloverleaf Dr. Ste C Baldwin Park, CA 91706 Phone 877-813-5337 aerobeez.com

Motor requirement

Wingspan

48 in.

Power

450 – 500 W

Length

48 in.

Kv

950 –1000 Kv

Wing area

496 in.

Weight

130 – 170 g

Weight

40 – 45 oz

ESC

40 A continuous with 60 A burst.

Battery

3S 2200 – 2650-mAh

Propeller

13 x 6.5

Servos

14 – 20 g w/ 1.8 – 2.2 kg/cm

2

A

erobeez introduces their new 48-in. wingspan Sbach 342 full fuselage EPP airframe, with lightweight laser-cut plywood and balsa construction. This Sbach is the perfect combination of performance, durability and cost. This is the perfect allaround platform for those that always wanted to get into the 3D scene but are turned away by all-wood not crash durable airframes. You now can explore this airplane’s flight envelope and push your piloting skills to the max! Point rolls are sharp, snap rolls are crisp and clean, pop tops are just fun, and it hovers with ease!

Price $149.00

AP SchemppHirth Go 6 Minimoa M02a (ARC/ARF)

Esprit 1240 Clearmont St. NE #12 Palm Bay, FL, 32905 Phone 321-729-4287 espritmodel.com

T

he original Goppingen Go 3 Minimoa was a single-seat glider produced in Germany.

It was made of wood and fabric, with cantilevered, gull-type wings. It was designed

by Martin Schempp and Wolf Hirth. This glider established several records, including the altitude record of 6,687m (21,939 ft), which was accomplished in 1938 in a thunderstorm.

Richard duPont and Chet Decker flew Minimoas to win the U.S. Championships in 1937 and 1938. The Go 6 Minimoa MO2a was the only two-seat glider to be built from the initial order of two in 1937. The second seat was built between the wings, behind the main wing spar into the extended fuselage. The front portion of the fuselage was extended by 260 mm. To this day only four Minimoas remain airworthy, two in Germany, one in Japan and the last one in the U.K. The AP Model’s 1/5-scale version of this beautiful glider comes with the fiberglass

14

RC SPORT FLYER — september 2013

fuselage and a flawless finish in beige gel-coat.

The canopy is removable, with fiberglass frame and comes ready for completion. The wing is beautifully finished in scale-like Solartex and ready for your aileron, and spoiler servos installation. The plug-in wings, as well as tail parts are scale like, classic balsa/plywood construction and are easily removable for transportation. This model comes in two versions, ARF (Almost Ready to Fly) covered in Solartex iron-on fabric and ARC (Almost Ready to Cover) ready for covering of your choice. All

these features give this model performance characteristic similar to a full-scale glider, while still remaining very lightweight and being beautifully built. The synergy of low weight and strong structure is very unusual even in a custom production sailplanes and can only be achieved with careful attention to design and construction. This modern, 1/5-scale model with its fiberglass fuselage and its classic balsa/plywood scale wings flies as well as full-scale did.

HOT PRODUCTS

50cc Mustang P-51B and P-51C ARF-QB Quick Build

AeroWorks 4903 Nome Street Denver, CO 80239 Phone: 303-371-4222 aero-works.net

T

he P-51B Mustang is arguably one of the most recognized and celebrated airplanes from World War II. The full-scale Mustang was known for its versatility and proved it could perform well in any mission.

Now you too can own this incredible airplane in 50-cc form. Featuring a distinct canopy and turtle deck, the P-51B is a welcome change to the P-51D. This 50-cc representation of the P-51B Mustang features a true-to-scale outline. It is covered in the

highly recognized, blue-nose color scheme of the 352nd fighter group.

The P-51C Kitten was flown by Col. Charles E. McGee in 1944. McGee, one of the famed Tuskegee Airmen, served as a fighter pilot during World War II, Korea, and Vietnam.

McGee flew the Kitten on 136 missions.

The 50-cc P-51B and P-51C ARF-QB features pre-installed pneumatic retracts, air cylinders, sequencers, inner gear doors, and air lines, which result in a complete, ready-to-use retract system. All of the gear sequencing for the main landing gear, inner landing-gear doors and the tailwheel have been completed at the factory. The Mustang also features a functioning canopy that operates just like the full-scale airplane!

Quick-build quality can be seen throughout this airplane. Pre-hinged surfaces, pre-installed cowling, pre-drilled, control-horn mounting

control and consistency.

CGY750 1.3x 3-axis Flybarless Gyro and Governer

Great Planes P.O. Box 9021 Champaign, IL 61821 Phone: 800-637-7660 greatplanes.com

Features • New Version 1.3x software • Collective to cyclic interaction is virtually eliminated • Phase sensor support

Specifications Wingspan

86 in.

Wing area

1359 in.2

Length

75 in.

Weight

22 – 24 lb

Cowl width

6 in.

Rudder height

16 in. w/ tail wheel

Engine

50 cc

Spinner size

5 in.

Radio

6 channels minimum

locations all result in a scale airplane that can be assembled in as little as 12 hours. The P-51 is covered in Ultracote® covering providing a spectacular finish as well as making any repairs easy to perform.

• Simpler, faster setup • Compact design fits into virtually any size machine • Weighs only 13 grams Price $319.99 (FUTM0835)

H

ailed as RC’s most advanced 3-axis flybarless system when it was introduced in 2011, the CGY750 now features updated software that delivers incredible flight performance. The gyro and governor are combined into one compact unit, with an easy-to-read OLED. Setup is easier than ever, and the dynamic gyro response range is an amazing +/- 1200 degrees per second.

New Version 1.3x software improves flight performance through higher cyclic gains, better piro compensation and greater rate Follow us on twitter @rcsportflyer

RC-SF.COM

15

Align T-Rex 700 Pro

Align USA 3626 Briggeman Drive Los Alamitos, CA 90720 Phone 562-598-4700 align-trex.com

F

ollowing the design feature of 700E HV super combo, the brand new 700E PRO Super Combo is now available. The model is designed with state-of-the-art technology and support for both HV and Digital servos.

The new heli utilizes the new stunning anodized red 800MX motor with 520 Kv, which features high efficiency, excellent torque power. Inherent in the new kit is the newly styled fiberglass canopy with quick install/ removal design. Another added feature is the progressive new main blades and tail blades that have been designed by our engineers and tested by our world famous pilots. The main difference between these two kits is that 700E Super Combo comes with DS615/655 servos instead of the high voltage ones and with Castle 120 brushless ESC while 700E HV version has Castle Edge 120 brushless ESC. Above all, the model integrates amazing performance and power that can definitely deliver an impressive and stunning experiences for any pilot.

TopFlite® Giant-Scale Spitfire ARF

Great Planes P.O. Box 9021 Champaign, IL 61821 Phone: 800-637-7660 greatplanes.com

S

pitfires are not just aircraft; they are symbols of the resilience of Britain in the face of devastation. Spitfires, guided by advanced radar and communications, intercepted Luftwaffe bombers and fighters before they could destroy their targets. At the beginning of the Battle of Britain, Germany had great advantages in numbers, experience and armament. The speed and firepower of the Spitfire helped tip the scales of the battle in the Brits’ favor. Courage and tenacity did the rest. After the Luftwaffe was driven from Britain’s skies, Spitfires were deployed to every front of the war.

16

RC SPORT FLYER — september 2013

This new, impressive TopFlite model perfectly represents the majesty of the original fighters with scale parts and a matte-finish trim scheme. Its handling on the ground and in the air is smooth and responsive. In fact, the only thing sweeter than flying this scale Spitfire would be flying the real thing.

Specifications Wingspan

86.5 in. (2195 mm)

Wing area

1325 in2 (85.5 dm2)

Weight

22 – 24 lb (9.98 – 10.88 kg)

Wing Loading

38-42 oz/ft2 (116-128 g/dm2)

Length

72 in. (1830 mm)

Price

$759.99 (TOPA0708)

HOT PRODUCTS

Seth Arnold Earns His Third Consecutive XFC Crown A record setting achievement at a benchmark 3D aerobatics event

Horizon Hobby, Inc. 4105 Fieldstone Road Champaign, IL 61822 Phone: 217-352-1913 horizonhobby.com

I

nternationally recognized as one of the most challenging aerobatic competitions in the world, the Extreme Flight Championships (XFC) in Muncie, IN vs the peak of performance from both pilot and aircraft. Now in its 11th

year, invited challengers for the XFC crown come from all points on the globe so they can redefine to a live audience of thousands what’s possible with a giant-scale airplane or 90-class helicopter.

Seth Arnold, an air category product developer at Horizon Hobby, has faced the XFC challenge for five years. This year’s 2013 event marked a first in the world of 3D competition when Seth took the first place podium position for the third year in a row. In all three of those years, he relied on Spektrum™ technology and Hangar 9® aircraft to see him through. Here’s what he had to say: One of the key points to XFC is a consistent, solid and well executed flight, along with highperformance 3D aerobatics. The combination of the Spektrum DX18 and Hangar 9 Composite

Specifications Engine

Desert Aircraft DA 120 (regular mufflers)

Propeller

Falcon 27 x 11 (carbon fiber)

Engine

Desert Aircraft DA 120 on mufflers

Radio

Spektrum DX18 transmitter

Receiver

Spektrum AR9110 9-channel DSMX PowerSafe receiver

Servos

JR8911HV (Ail. x4, Elev. x2), JR8711HV (Rud x1), JR8917HV (Throt)

Batteries

Thunder Power 65C 2S 1300-mAh (receiver x2); Spektrum 12C 2S 1350mAh (ignition)

Regulator

Spektrum 5203 Voltage regulator (ignition)

Option

Harris Smoke Pump

QQ Yak 54 delivers on all of that…plus some.

With the advanced programming of the DX18, one can get the airplane flying the way they want very quickly; and with the QQ Yak, it’s a solid flying airplane out of the box. Couple that together and you can get flying extremely well in a small amount of time. That leaves more time for better practice and preparation, with the confidence that it is just going to work!

Want to learn more about the Composite QQ Yak 54 2.6-m (HAN5200) and its world champion performance? Get to your favorite Hangar 9 retailer or see the product page on hangar-9.com. There you’ll find specs, features and video of this amazing 3D aircraft in action.

Blade® 600 X Pro Series Heli Kit

Horizon Hobby, Inc. 4105 Fieldstone Road Champaign, IL 61822 Phone: 217-352-1913 horizonhobby.com

B

uilding on the architecture of the 550 X Pro Series heli, the team of Blade helicopter experts has created an awe-inspiring 3D machine that’s destined to dominate its class. The new Blade 600 X Pro Series heli kit uses the same main frame and rotor head parts as the 550 X, but comes with the extra Follow us on twitter @rcsportflyer

power of an E-flite Heli 700, 500 Kv brushless power system. A longer set of Revolution 600-mm carbon fiber blades translates the phenomenal output of this system is into the most aggressive cyclic and collective response

possible. The tail has been lengthened as well and includes Revolution 95-mm carbon fiber tail blades.

Blade 600 X Pro Series Heli Kit $579.99 (BLH5625) RC-SF.COM

17

Aurora 9X 9-Channel 2.4-GHz Aircraft Computer Radio

Hitec RCD 12115 Paine Street Poway, CA 92064 Phone: 858-748-6948 hitecrcd.com

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he new Aurora 9X offers four times the resolution of its predecessor, the Aurora 9, so the Aurora 9X is sure to become a favorite among the most demanding pilots. It is our first triple protocol radio that allows selection from the G1 and G2 Adaptive Frequency Hopping Spread Spectrum (AFHSS) or Secure Link (SLT) 2.4-GHz technologies. It features dual processors for fast, low latency response and ultra-smooth 4096 resolution.

With more than 30 additional programming enhancements and new dynamically assignable switches, it is sure to thrill sport and professional level airplane and helicopter pilots alike.

• 7 ms frame rate using Maxima receivers • four 3-position and two 3-position dynamically assignable switches • Vibration Mode function • Built-in stylus storage • More than 30 additional enhancements and refinements • Ideal for Sport and Pro level pilots • Compatible with our new 6- or 9-channel Maxima receivers Price

$430 – $570

Features • Triple protocol transmitter, select from G1 and G2 AFHSS or SLT spread spectrum • Ultra-smooth 4096 resolution

X1 Touch 55-Watt AC/DC Multi-Chemistry Touch Screen Battery Charger

Hitec RCD 12115 Paine Street Poway, CA 92064 Phone: 858-748-6948 hitecrcd.com

H

itec’s charger line continues to expand with the addition of the X1 Touch.

Designed with absolute ease and portability in mind, this 55-watt sensation uses an 11 – 18-VDC power source or an internal AC power supply to provide the versatility all pilots and racers desire. The 3.2-in. high-resolution touch screen allows for effortless data monitoring and retrieval. With a built-in internal cell balancer and multiple safety functions, its reliability is rock solid.

Features • Charges NiMH, NiCd, LiPo, LiFe, Li-Ion and Lead Acid Batteries • Built-in power supply • Adjustable charge current rate of 0.1 – 7.0 amps • Internal balancing circuit • 3.2-in. High-resolution touch-screen

Specifications Part #

Number of Output Channels

44177

1

18

AC Input Voltage

DC Charge DC Input Input Circuit Power Amperage Voltage Per Channel

110~240 VAC

11~18 VDC

7 Amps

RC SPORT FLYER — september 2013

55 Watts

Discharge Circuit Power Per Channel

Charge Circuit Range Per Channel

Discharge Circuit Range Per Cell

Balancing Current Drain Per Channel

Dimensions

Weight

Price

5 Watts

0.1~7.0 Amps

0.1~2.0 Amps

200mAh

5.5x6.5x2.3

1.2 lb

US$109.99

HOT PRODUCTS

SBEC 40

Esprit 1240 Clearmont St. NE #12 Palm Bay, FL, 32905 Phone 321-729-4287 espritmodel.com

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he SBEC 40 from Jeti is a switching BEC designed to operate with included magnetic key. The advantage of an electronic switch is that it offers virtually unlimited On/ Off cycles, unlike mechanically operated

Laminar XLF207

Esprit 1240 Clearmont St. NE #12 Palm Bay, FL, 32905 Phone 321-729-4287 espritmodel.com

O

riginally built in the Czech Republic as follower of the well known Lunak LF-107 in the 1950’s. The Laminar XLF-207 was the first European sailplane built using revolutionary laminar airfoil design. Laminar airfoils reduces skin friction drag.

From its beautiful finish to its three control surfaces per wing, this 4.4-meter (173 in.)

Laminar XLF-207 is just impressive. The fiberglass fuselage is finished in scale blue gel coat, which matches the Ultracote covered wings and tail surfaces beautifully. This Reichard kit features balsa-sheeted foam-core wings and tails. The tail surfaces and flaps even have lightening holes for maximum weight reduction and responsiveness while still maintaining strength. Just like the fullscale glider, the wings have split ailerons and one flap per side. The bottom-hinged flaps can be lowered to almost 90 degrees and can be combined with included spoilers for incredible braking force. The included hardware package makes this ARF a very complete kit and very

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switches. The new Jeti SBEC 40 is a switching BEC designed to regulate the voltage from your 8 – 51-volt power source (3 – 12S LiPo or 3 –14S LiFe packs) and provide a selectable output voltage of 5 to 8 volts at up to 40 amps peak and 18 amps continues current. With high output voltages available the Jeti SBEC 40 switching regulator is ready for your highvoltage servos and will satisfy the extreme requirements of most modelers. The Jeti SBEC voltage regulator is very simple to use allowing the output voltage to be selected by using the included jumper plug, which can be moved between the pins to instruct the SBEC

to output the corresponding voltage. Screws and mounting-lugs are included to mount the device in your model as well as the magnetic key and face-plate. Decals are also included to allow the informative cover of the unit to be replicated on the outside of your model.

The faceplate contains an integrated LED to indicate the ON/OFF status of the switch.

Should the battery become disconnected, the unit remembers its On/Off state; i.e., if the unit is switched on and the battery is disconnected, the unit will remain On when the battery is reconnected.

fast to finish. All of the Extras like the fuselage servo tray, pre-cut spoilers openings and wing servo covers are finished and included. An experienced builder can finish the XLF-207 in just a few evenings.

For the intermediate pilot, the Laminar is very satisfying to fly. With its large wingspan, scale HQ airfoil and camber changing ability this glider has a broad speed range, and handles extremely well. This sailplane happily

performs inverted flight maneuvers. Whether aerotowing or electric powered, you can enjoy hours of flying with this superb 4.4-meter scale, highly aerobatic model. This scale, very unique glider can handle a full aerobatic routine too. The careful use of composites with competition balsa, creates a good lightweight structure that withstands the rigors of many hours of flight.

RC-SF.COM

19

HSG-8315BH High Voltage, Ultra Fast Helicopter Tail Rotor Servo

O Hitec RCD 12115 Paine Street Poway, CA 92064 Phone: 858-748-6948 hitecrcd.com

ur new supersonic helicopter servo is fast and furious fun! Built with ultraspeed in mind, the HSG-8315BH has a robust Karbonite and aluminum hybrid gear train, high-performance cordless motor and high-resolution, low dead band circuitry. It is the perfect tail rotor servo for 500-plussize electric-powered and 50-size and up gas-powered airplanes whose maneuvers and aerobatics demand the utmost precision and acceleration. Rated at 7.4 volts for 2S LiPo operation with a 560Hz refresh rate, the HSG8315BH rivals anything like it on the market.

Throw in its 25-tooth standard spline and dual ball bearings and it is a standout!

Specifications 6.0 Volts

HSB-93XX Series of Servos Ultra Efficient, Neu Castle Brushless Digital Servos

7.4 Volts

Speed

Torque

Speed

Torque

0.05

60 oz-in.

0.04

74 oz-in.

Hitec RCD 12115 Paine Street Poway, CA 92064 Phone: 858-748-6948 hitecrcd.com

Dimensions

Weight

Hz

PWM µs

Part #

Price

1.57x0.79x1.50 in.

2.12 oz

200~560

760~1020

38315

US$89.99

W

ith ultra-efficient Neu/Castle brushless motors, titanium gear trains, low current consumption and constant output power, the HSB-93XX series of servos is the perfect match for the most discriminating pilots and racers.

The HSB-9360’s speed is ideal for helicopter pilots. The HSB-9370’s speed and torque combination make it a great general purpose servo. And, the HSB-9380’s torque is the power solution for all giant-scale airplanes as well as 1/8th scale racers.

Features • Industry-Leading Titanium Gear Train • 25-Tooth Standard Spline • Programmable 12-Bit Resolution Digital Circuit • Low Current Consumption • Constant Power Output • Energy Efficient

Specifications 11.1 Volts

20

14.8 Volts

Weight

Part #

Price

236 oz-in. 1.57x0.79x1.50 in.

2.40 oz

39360

US$179.99

0.10

347 oz-in. 1.57x0.79x1.50 in.

2.40 oz

39370

US$179.99

0.14

472 oz-in. 1.57x0.79x1.50 in.

2.40 oz

39380

US$179.99

Speed

Torque

Speed

HSB-9360TH

0.08

236 oz-in.

0.06

HSB-9370TH

0.12

347 oz-in.

HSB-9380TH

0.17

472 oz-in.

RC SPORT FLYER — september 2013

Torque

Dimensions

HOT PRODUCTS

HSB-94XX Series of Servos Ultra Efficient, Neu Castle Brushless Digital Servos

Hitec RCD 12115 Paine Street Poway, CA 92064 Phone: 858-748-6948 hitecrcd.com

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ro level hobbyists demand the power and precision found in our triple threat HSB-94XX servos. Each one is designed with our durable steel gears and impressive Neu Castle brushless motors. The HSB-9465SH brings lightning speed while the HSB-9475SH delivers multipurpose performance and the HSB-9485SH has the ultra torque necessary for the most demanding applications.

Features • Durable steel gear train • 25-tooth standard spline • Programmable 12-bit resolution digital circuit • Ultra low current power • Constant power output

Specifications 11.1 Volts

HS-900SGS and HS-1000SGT Ultra, Heavy Duty, Giant Scale, Digital Servos

14.8 Volts

Weight

Part #

Price

187 oz-in. 1.57x0.78x1.45 in.

2.19 oz

39465

US$124.99

0.10

269 oz-in. 1.57x0.78x1.45 in.

2.19 oz

39475

US$124.99

0.15

361 oz-in. 1.57x0.78x1.45 in.

2.19 oz

39485

US$124.99

Dimensions

Weight

Part #

Price

Speed

Torque

Speed

HSB-9465SH

0.09

187 oz-in.

0.07

HSB-9475SH

0.13

269 oz-in.

HSB-9485SH

0.18

361 oz-in.

Torque

Dimensions

Hitec RCD 12115 Paine Street Poway, CA 92064 Phone: 858-748-6948 hitecrcd.com

T

he extreme power and durability of the HS-900SGS and HS-1000SGT is astounding. Designed from the ground up for industrial applications, these servos are the perfect answer for demanding giantscale aircraft pilots. Featuring all aluminum, EMI-shielded cases, solid steel gears and non-programmable digital circuits, these servos can take a beating while delivering precise performance. Designed Specifications to operate on 3- and 11.1 Volts 4-cell LiPo battery packs, Speed Torque the HS-900SGS provides swift speed while the HS-900 SGS 0.20 903 oz-in.

HS-1000SGT brings hefty HS-1000 SGT 0.26 1167 oz-in. torque.

Follow us on twitter @rcsportflyer

14.8 Volts Speed

Torque

0.15

1208 oz-in.

2.52x1.30x2.87 in.

12.8 oz

34900

US$424.99

0.19

1528 oz-in.

2.52x1.30x2.87 in.

12.8 oz

34100

US$424.99 RC-SF.COM

21

P-38 Lightning Micro Warbird

Great Planes P.O. Box 9021 Champaign, IL 61821 Phone: 800-637-7660 greatplanes.com

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he P-38 Lightning was one of the most distinctive single-seat fighters of World War II. America’s top scoring aces flew the Lightning, and now you can fly it too!

Twin counter-rotating, three-blade propellers powered by electric motors and LiPo battery give this model impressive speed and handling.

Because it’s a micro, the Lightning is easy to transport, easy to fly indoors or out and is a great value! Every detail has been included to make this micro just as realistic as a giant scale warbird. The trim scheme is authentic, a molded plastic nose piece holds realistic

4-Star 64 EG ARF

SIG Mfg. Co., Inc. 401 South Front St P O Box 520 Montezuma, IA 50171-0520 Phone 641-623-5154 sigmfg.com

T

he 4-STAR 64 EG ARF is a great choice for transitioning student pilots from high-wing trainers to low-wing aerobatic aircraft. With its low-wing, semi-symmetrical airfoil, and light wing loading, the 4-STAR 64 takes you to the next level with all the basic aerobatics and whoop-dee-doos your thumbs

guns and a painted pilot figure makes your plane as realistic as possible. RTFs come with everything you need to fly. The Tx-R version includes all of the great features of the RTF without the radio system you may already have. The Tx-R is ready to link to any SLT transmitter or any transmitter with AnyLink.

Features • Available in RTF and Tx-R Prime configurations.

• Twin counter-rotating propellers.

can conjure up. Intermediate and advanced fliers also appreciate the 4-STAR 64’s simple construction, ease of assembly, and super flight performance. This is an airplane you will enjoy taking to the airfield every time.

The 4-STAR 64 is designed to get you into the air quickly with a traditional handcrafted balsa wood ARF. All wood parts are CADdrawn, laser cut, and factory jig assembled, so everything fits the way it should. The lightweight airframe is very rugged and has been expertly covered with Oracover® (aka Ultracote®) premium film. Available in yellow or red base colors with complete factory applied markings.

The 4-STAR 64 EG ARF is designed for either electric or glow power. The 4-STAR 64 EG flies

• Nose cone allows easy access to your battery for charging.

• Factory-finished military trim scheme.

• Steerable nose wheel and removable landing gear.

Specifications FLZA2310 Micro P-38 Lightning RTF $139.99 FLZA2312 Micro P-38 Lightning Tx-R Prime $129.99

Specifications Wingspan

64 in. (1625 mm)

Wing area

847 in.2 (54.6 dm2)

Length

57 in. (1447 mm)

Weight

7 - 8.25 lb (3175 - 3742 g)

Wing loading

19 - 22 oz/ft2 (58 - 68 g/dm2)

Radio

4-channel with 5 standard servos (glow) 4-channel with 4 standard servos (electric)

Glow power

2-stroke .60 – .75 cu.in.

(10.0 - 12.3 cc) 4-stroke .60 – .90 cu.in.

(10.0 - 14.7 cc)

Electric power

1200 – 1700 watt Brushless Motor (400600 kv) 75-amp ESC 4 – 6S 4000 – 5000mAh LiPo Battery

Order No.

SIGRC73EGARFR - 4-Star 64 EG ARF (red) SIGRC73EGARFY - 4-Star 64 EG ARF (yellow)

well with a 2-stroke glow engine, a 4-stroke glow engine, or a brushless outrunner electric motor combined with a 4 – 6-cell LiPo battery.

22

RC SPORT FLYER — september 2013

HOT PRODUCTS

Great Planes Revolver 50cc

W

ith its impressive dimensions and racy good looks, the Revolver™ 50cc Gas ARF is a real standout in the air. And it’s so easy to get this giant airborne. Self-aligning wings and stabilizers, pre-hinged ailerons and elevators and pre-painted fiberglass parts are just a few of the time-savers that make this model easy to assemble. The Revolver 50cc assembles as easily as .40- or .60-size ARFs, but blows them

Great Planes P.O. Box 9021 Champaign, IL 61821 Phone: 800-637-7660 greatplanes.com

Specifications Type

90 in. (2285 mm)

Wing area

1303 in.² (84 dm²)

Weight

19.5 – 20.5 lb (8.849.30 kg)

Wing Loading

34 – 36 oz/ft² (104 – 110 g/dm²)

Length

82.5 in. (2095 mm)

Price

$429.99 (GPMA1425)

away with its sporty appearance and huge 7-1/2-ft wingspan.

Features • Offers “bigger-is-better” performance and easier-than-average assembly • Simple 4-channel design makes radio setup a snap • Hatch, painted pilot figure and canopy are already assembled for instant installation • Features factory-applied MonoKote® covering, aluminum landing gear and spinner • Wings and stabilizers remove and attach with ease thanks to the joiner tubes and screws.

HS-8385TH Ultra Response, Ultra Torque, Giant Scale Airplane Servo

better and better with the introduction of the HS-8385TH. The impressive precision and rapid-fire response of this non-programmable, high-torque titan is sure to catch the attention of all giant-scale airplane pilots. With a robust titanium gear train, smooth coreless motor, industry-standard 25-tooth spline and dead band optimized for aircraft applications, the HS-8385TH is truly the best of the best.

Hitec RCD 12115 Paine Street Poway, CA 92064 Phone: 858-748-6948 hitecrcd.com

O

ur line of high-resolution, high-voltage, ultra-response servos keeps getting

• • • • •

Durable Titanium Gears Non-Programmable, Digital Circuitry Ultra Powerful Torque Optimized Dead Band Efficient Coreless Motor

Features

Specifications 6.0 Volts

7.4 Volts

Speed

Torque

Speed

Torque

0.17 sec/60*

403 oz-in.

0.14 sec/60*

486 oz-in.

Dimensions

Weight

Part #

Price

1.57x0.79 x1.50 in.

2.40 oz

38385

US$147.99

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SebArt Robin S 50E ARF

Thunder Power RC 4720 W. University Ave Las Vegas, NV 89103 Phone 702-228-8883 SebArtRC.com

Follow us on twitter @rcsportflyer

hunder Power’s Sebart Robin S 50 Class model features many scale functions including flaps, navigation lights and operating tow release system. A scale cockpit is also included. With a 68.9-in. wingspan it is an ideal match to tow the SebArt Blanik.

Recommended power setup is the Hacker A50-16S, Hacker Master Basic 70-amp ESC, Thunder Power RC 4400-6SPP25 and a APC 16x10E or 17x8E propeller.

Price $429.99 (#SEBR50) RC-SF.COM

23

Mezon Lite ESC

Esprit 1240 Clearmont St. NE #12 Palm Bay, FL, 32905 Phone 321-729-4287 espritmodel.com

W

hoever said great things don’t come in small packages didn’t have a Jeti Mezon Lite. The Jeti Mezon Lite, with all the same features of the Jeti Mezon, is just smaller. The new line of Jeti MEZON ESCs targets professionals and pilots looking for un-compromised precision and high quality. The MEZON ESCs combine new revolutionary design with Jeti’s state-of-theart manufacturing capabilities. Jeti MEZON ESC’s advanced design and software are capable of unmatched precision and efficient motor management. With DUPLEX integration all data is measured in real time. Mezon ESCs were designed with a revolutionary BEC circuit capable of measuring the exact battery capacity used and lets you set up a motor cut-off point based not only on cell voltage but also on overall battery pack capacity. This function, combined with Jeti DUPLEX system,

offers you full telemetry capabilities with the possibility of saving your data for further analysis, etc. MEZON ESC’s advanced design and software are capable of unmatched precision and efficient motor management.

With DUPLEX integration all data is measured in real time. Mezon ESCs were designed with a revolutionary BEC circuit capable measuring the exact battery capacity

T

Aerobatic Fun Scale Model of Airshow Pilot Erik Edgren’s Clipped Wing Taylorcraft

SIG Mfg. Co., Inc. 401 South Front St P O Box 520 Montezuma, IA 50171-0520 Phone 641-623-5154 sigmfg.com

-CLIPS is no ordinary clipped-wing Taylorcraft. Originally a stock 1939 Taylorcraft, this is the only clipped-wing T’craft in the world currently flying air shows with an original size engine. Air show pilot Erik Edgren refers to this as “Twistin It Old School”.

SIG is proud to team up with Erik and offer a new RC model of his one-of-a-kind airplane.

Designed for electric power, the new SIG T-CLIPS EP is a pure aerobatic delight. It’s not meant to be an exact scale model, but more of an everyday no-frills RC airfield favorite. This balsa ARF features a semi-symmetrical airfoil and strong lightweight construction. Put in a 40-size brushless motor with a 4S battery

used and lets you set up a motor cut-off point based not only on cell voltage but also on overall battery pack capacity. This function, combined with Jeti DUPLEX system, offers you full telemetry capabilities with the possibility of saving your data for further analysis. Advanced Helicopter features include governor with Active Free Wheel and Fast Response mode.

Specifications Wingspan

60 in. (1524 mm)

Wing area

630 in.2 (40.6 dm2)

Length

43 in. (1092 mm)

Weight

4.5 – 5 lb (2041 - 2267 g)

Wing loading

16.5 – 18.3 oz/ft2 (50 56 g/dm2)

Radio Req.

4-channel with 4 standard servos

Electric power Req.

500 – 800 watt brushless motor (800 – 1000 Kv) 60 – 75-amp ESC 3 – 4S 3000 – 5000mAh Lipo battery

Order No.

SIGRC87EPARF - T-Clips EP ARF

pack and your favorite new takeoff style will be straight up. Loops, rolls, snaps, and spins are routine with the T-CLIPS and the basis for more advanced 3D style maneuvers.

24

RC SPORT FLYER — september 2013

HOT PRODUCTS

New Champion SRS

PowerBox-Systems GmbH zertifiziert nach DIN EN ISO 9001:2008 Ludwig-Auer-Strasse 5 D - 86609 Donauwörth Phone 49 906 22 55 9 powerbox-systems.com

P

owerBox Systems offers a new high-end product designed to provide supreme functionality and security for the demanding pilot. The Champion SRS is the sister of the new Royal SRS, but without the integral iGyro.

Current requirements had PowerBox adopt many new ideas during the development period: all 24 outputs have a ServoMatch function, the unit features a door-sequencer as standard, and the latest PowerBus technology.

In other respects PB has retained proven concepts in further developed form. For example, the new Champion SRS is fully

programmable using a menu system, controlled with the SensorSwitch and a blue backlit LCD screen. As usual, all batteryspecific and flight-relevant data can be displayed on-screen after each flight. The door sequencer function features an integral setup assistant that makes it possible to complete the essential setup procedure in very short order. The new Champion SRS features serial bus inputs.

The Champion SRS features no fewer than four high-performance voltage regulators, allowing the use of both HV servos and conventional 6-volt types. With dual security in mind, each pair of regulators can be set to an output voltage of 5.9 or 7.4 volts. The Servo-Match and Fail-Safe functions have also been expanded: the software now provides adjustment facilities for all 24 outputs individually, covering servo center, travels, failsafe and hold mode. Servo reverse is available with a single button press. It is compatible with five different radio control systems: Spektrum, Futaba, Multiplex, Hott and Jeti—some providing telemetry output of battery-relevant data.

PowerBus

Servo-Match function

Esprit Servo Frame

Specifications Operating voltage

4.0 – 9.0 volt

Power supply

2 x 5S NiMH/NiCd, 2S LiPo, 2S LiFe

Current drain, On

≈185 mA

Switched off

≈30 µA

Output voltage

5.9 and/or 7.4 volt

Max. output current

Peak 4 x 20 A

Dropout voltage

0.3 V

Servo signal resolution

0.5 µs

Frame rate adjustable

9, 12, 15, 18, 21 ms

Screen

LCD 128x64 pixel, graphic

Servo sockets

24 sockets

6 x freely programmable outputs with set-up assistant

Channels

max 18

Telemetry

Spektrum, Hott, M-Link

Measures

136x83x20 mm

2 outputs, 16 + 2 channels, compatible with other servo bus systems

Weight

including screen and switch: 250g

Temperature range

-30°C bis +75°C

EMV approval

EN 55014-1:2006

CE approval

2004/108/EG

Order No. 4520

499.00 € incl. VAT

Features Door sequencer

The Champion SRS can be updated using the USB adapter, and is therefore equipped to cope with new systems in the pipeline, and provides for possible future expansions.

servo centre, endpoints and servo reverse for all 24 outputs

Esprit 1240 Clearmont St. NE #12 Palm Bay, FL, 32905 Phone 321-729-4287 espritmodel.com

E

sprit is now offering specially designed servo frames for mounting servos in hollow-molded wings. These frames deliver a solid installation, with the option of easy removal! The remove the struggling with fast emergency exchange at the RC airfield. Just glue these servo frames in with high-strength epoxy and drop in your servos—that’s it.

Follow us on twitter @rcsportflyer

RC-SF.COM

25

Mystique RES 2.9 m ARF

Horizon Hobby, Inc. 4105 Fieldstone Road Champaign, IL 61822 Phone: 217-352-1913 horizonhobby.com

T

he E-flite Mystique RES 2.9 m ARF sailplane is the follow-up to the highly successful Mystique 2.9 m. It’s a great choice for pilots interested in a sport/competition LMR F5J sailplane at a competitive price. Its large wingspan is built with just the right amount of polyhedral to provide gentle flight characteristics, yet still have the authority to turn abruptly into a thermal. The airfoil provides excellent handling over a wide speed range, plus the all-wood open-wing construction keeps weight to a minimum to

Sbach 342 60

take advantage of even the least amount of lift. Built-in spoilers offer the ability to dump lift without a gain in airspeed, so you have control to escape a thermal and perform spot landings with greater precision. The Mystique can be built with electric power, or as a pure

sailplane suitable for launching off a winch, histart or even a slope. The option is yours and either setup can be accomplished with just a simple 4-channel radio.

E-flite Mystique RES 2.9m AR Price $349.99 (EFL4915)

Horizon Hobby, Inc. 4105 Fieldstone Road Champaign, IL 61822 Phone: 217-352-1913 horizonhobby.com

A

perfect blend of form and function, the Hangar 9 Sbach 342 60 ARF utilizes the noted creativity of world-class designer and pilot Mike McConville to engineer a scale aerobatic model of the modern full-scale aircraft that’s quickly becoming popular in competition circles. It’s made from very lightweight balsa and plywood and covered in genuine Hangar 9 UltraCote covering. An easy-to-remove top fuselage hatch provides

Florida Jets 2013 DVD

SKS Video Productions 85 Pine Road Abbottstown, PA 17301 Phone 800-988-6488 sksvideo.com

F

lorida Jets 2013 was held at Lakeland Linder Airport in Lakeland, Florida, and continues to bring together the hottest pilots and airplanes from around the globe.

This year’s video features many of the top pilots demonstrating the latest in jet technology. Goetz Vogelsang debuts two aircraft, a large BAE Hawk and a Quantum Jet Biplane. Rod Snyder showed off his classic JMP Hustler and David Shulman demonstrated

26

RC SPORT FLYER — september 2013

generous access while the canopy adds an extra touch of scale class. Its oversized control surfaces, when matched with the recommended digital servos, deliver precision maneuverability and 3D capability. The Sbach 342 60 can be powered anyway you like with

the new Aurora. Ali Machinchy flys no less that three aircraft at this year’s show—a twin-turbine-powered F-14 Tomcat, a thrust vectoring F-22 Raptor and a jet powered ASK 21 glider. Lowell Wexler has the new Fly Eagle Jets Vampire while Gerardo Diaz campaigns his Skymaster Cougar. Other aircraft featured in this video include two F4D Skyrays, several BAe Hawks, an F-15, F-86, Two Hawker Hunters and even a ME162 Comet. Plus, we have inflight footage from four different aircraft!

Specifications Time

DVD 97 min.

Blu-ray 113 min.

Price

$24.95 ($6.00 S&H)

electric, gas or glow power.

Hangar 9 Sbach 342 60 Price $339.99 (HAN4215)

HOT PRODUCTS

E-fliteÂŽ Extra 330SC BP 3D ARF

Horizon Hobby, Inc. 4105 Fieldstone Road Champaign, IL 61822 Phone: 217-352-1913 horizonhobby.com

E

-flite introduces the new Extra 330SC BP 3D ARF, an electric-powered balsa built profile version of the famed aerobatic airplane. Developed to deliver aggressive 3D performance, the Extra 330SC is perfect for 3D pilots looking for a quick flight fix in their backyard or park, or for novice 3D pilots who want to develop their skills without making a huge investment. Designed to use a 450-sized motor, this hybrid-profile aerobat comes at a size that is rarely modeled and delivers

Red Bull BO105 CB 130 X BNF

Horizon Hobby, Inc. 4105 Fieldstone Road Champaign, IL 61822 Phone: 217-352-1913 horizonhobby.com

greater power-to-weight ratio than its closest competitors. The Extra 330SC comes loaded with design features to increase performance, such as 3D-sized control surfaces and a tapered airfoil. Additional consumer focused details, such as wooden wheel pants, gives the

Blade helis wanted it the look and function in the same manner as its full-scale counterpart.

All these features and the addition of the world class AS3X system onboard make for an unrivaled flying experience.

consumer a more polished look to his plane.

Extra 330SC BP 3D ARF Price $134.99 (EFL2610)

Blade Red Bull BO-105 CB 130 X BNF Price $279.99 (BLH3880)

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he Red Bull BO-105 CB 130X is an accurate scale model of the famous Red Bull BO-105 CB, operated by the Flying Bulls, capable of the same aerobatics and more. This helicopter not only resembles its full-scale inspiration, it also performs with similar precision. Based on the Blade 130 X platform, the power and agility of this model accurately mimics the aerobatic routines of the full-scale helicopter.

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Raptor E550S

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he Raptor E550 is designed for top-notch performance, and to get you in the air fast.

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he ParkZone Focke-Wulf 190A-8 park flyer is a gorgeous recreation of this legendary aircraft that no warbird lover should be without. Modeled after a variant that first flew in 1944, it bears the authentic trim scheme and markings of an airplane flown by German Ace Kurt Bhligen. Its molded panel lines, painted pilot figure, working engine fan, wing guns and other details are already applied or installed for you.

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RC SPORT FLYER — september 2013

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he Hangar 9 60cc Giant-Scale F4U-1D Corsair delivers scale details close to competition grade. Its scale outlines and impressive scale appearance and performance make this an exciting warbird to show off at the airfield. This new giant model delivers extraordinary scale looks and the superior flying characteristics associated with Hangar 9 aircraft. Out of the box it comes covered in genuine UltraCote covering and features scale details like a full depth cockpit, hidden tail control linkages, scale rib detail, scale Follow us on twitter @rcsportflyer

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E-flite® Beast 60e

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he E-flite Beast 60e ARF biplane embodies everything you’d expect from a design created to deliver stunning feats of aerobatic artistry. The full-scale Beast is the brainchild of renowned aircraft restoration expert, Kevin Kimball, who collaborated with 3D champ Quique Somenzini on its design. Its dramatic ability to loop, roll and tumble with formidable precision inspired the 100-cc Hangar 9 Beast aircraft that’s widely recognized as a modern classic. For this inaugural 60-size iteration, the development team worked closely with Quique to assure the performance and feel of a larger aircraft came through. Because it’s been designed specifically with the modern electric pilot in mind, every design element

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RC SPORT FLYER — september 2013

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Wingspan: Length: Weight: Receiver: Servos:

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SERIOUS FUN.™

BY David Wigley

BRISTOL BEAUFIGHTER

Construction Begins

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fter dreaming of building a large, 1/5-scale Bristol Beaufighter, and figuring out how I would design and build the structure, it came time to start cutting parts.

To start, the entire airframe was built up. The materials used were aircraft plywood, light ply and balsa.

The airframe was then sheeted with balsa and subsequently fiberglassed.

Two exceptions were the rudder, which was fabric covered, and the stabilizer and elevator, which were sheeted with FliteSkin. This is a thin fiberglass sheet. I used the FliteSkin to keep the tail surfaces as lightweight as possible, yet still strong enough to handle the aircraft’s flight loads.

Parts Cutting

The best technique I have for

1

2 All the wing ribs are layed out on the plans after being cut out and sanded to shape. Note the two, long, plywood spars and the servo mounts already glued in place on some of the ribs.

34

cutting out parts is to print a second set of plans. This second sheet is used to roughly cut out the ribs and formers by tack gluing them to the sheet balsa or light ply with spray adhesive. If duplicate parts are needed, I stack the sheets up and either nail or pin them together. Then I cut the parts out using a band saw.

The parts are cut to within 1/16 in. of the overall dimension. Finally I use a disc sander to smoothly sand the part to the line on the plans. I then remove the paper and label the parts.

I find it strange that some modelers plan out each step before they start a project. For me, this is not realistic nor is it worthwhile.

I have found that the process of building your own design from scratch tends to take on a mind of its own. There are many tasks that must be completed before you can

RC SPORT FLYER — september 2013

The right inboard wing panel on the building board showing how the inboard panels were built upside down. The bottom skin was glued on next.

BRISTOL BEAUFIGHTER

3

4 The left wing after the inboard and outboard sections have been joined together. The outboard panel will be sheeted before being removed from the board.

The left wing at midspan showing the outboard flap servos, front and rear spars, and three large air tanks for the retracts.

5 All four flap segments were assembled in place on the wing to ensure that they fit tightly to the wing when retracted. FliteSkin gives sharp, scale-like trailing edges.

6 move on to others. So I just get started with something and it soon becomes clear where the build goes next. I have also found that a sure way to bring things to a halt is to think too far ahead. Many times while building the Beaufighter, I started thinking about all steps I still had to do to finish the model and it became overwhelming. It left me feeling as if I’d hit a brick wall. You really have to think of it as if you’re eating an elephant: one bite at a time!

I started the construction of my Beaufighter with its wings, since they would need to be aligned with the fuselage’s center section. Well actually I fabricated both main, landingFollow us on twitter @rcsportflyer

gear assemblies before framing up the wing—but then that’s another story. The main gear assemblies were needed first so they could be fitted and bolted to the wheel-well structure while the wing was being framed.

Wing Framing

So here’s how framing the huge wings proceeded: The entire wing from tip to tip consists of separate left and right wings each consisting of an inboard and outboard panel.

The joint between the two panels is at the dihedral break, just outboard of the engine nacelle. Each wing has a front and rear plywood spar. These

The spar box is assembled on top of the belly-hatch datum plate with both wing spars mated to the fuselage spar box formers. Incidence meters were used to check the alignment of both wing panels.

spars slide into the fuselage and overlap so that when they are bolted together they form two, strong, spanwise spars. I wouldn’t be entirely truthful if I told you that the wings went together like a jigsaw puzzle.

I spent many sleepless nights trying to figure out just how to put this monster together. The solution was to construct each wing in two stages.

The inboard panels were assembled upside down on the building board, then the front and rear spars were glued in place. This allowed access to the wheel well so that the main landing-gear assembly could be bolted to the engine and landinggear mounting ribs while the inboard RC-SF.COM

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7 The fuselage spar box was glued together with the sub wings in place. Note the two high torque digital elevator servos mounted on the rear the spar box former.

8 section was being framed. Before removing the inboard panels from the building board, the bottom surface was sheeted with 3/32-in. balsa. This step ensured that the panel would not warp when removed from the building board. The outboard panels, on the other hand, were constructed right side up with two degrees of washout built in.

I mentioned earlier obstacles, hurdles and the landing gear story.

Don’t worry, the landing gear story will be told in a forthcoming article.

While fabricating the main landing gear, it became obvious that the large air cylinders were going to need a lot of air. I tested the gear using one large Robart air tank and the pressure dropped 10 psi for one cycle of only one unit! A quick calculation showed that I would need five large tanks to supply enough air for the entire system. The next problem was where to install five large air tanks. I had to keep the tail light, so the aft fuselage was out as an option. There is no forward fuselage.

The inboard wing section was too small and was needed for the fuel tanks. The only place left was in the outboard wing section. Fortunately the wing is quite thick in that area.

So while the outboard wing section was still on the building board, the air tanks were fitted, then the inboard wing panel with the two spars was slid into slots in 36

RC SPORT FLYER — september 2013

the outboard ribs. Next the inboard section was shimmed to the correct dihedral angle and glued in place.

Finally the top wing skin was glued on. To complete the wing, the bottom outboard skin was added and finally the leading edges and wing tips fitted in place.

Fuselage

The fuselage was framed using 1/8-in. light ply and aircraft ply formers with 1/4- x 1/8-in. pine stringers. As I mentioned earlier, in order to keep the tail lightweight, no internal crutch was used. Instead, the formers were supported on two 1- x 4-in. x 8-foot pine boards, while the stringers and some of the sheeting were added. On the underside of the forward fuselage is a large removable hatch for access to the wing spar bolt area and radio gear. A 1/4-in. plywood sheet was glued to the top of the 1- x 4-in. pine crutches to support this hatch area. This surface was used as the datum during the fuselage construction and the hatch flange was nailed to it. The fuselage was designed with a spar box arrangement in the center where the front and rear wing spars are located.

The first step in assembling the fuselage was to do a dry assembly of the spar box on top of the hatch flange, with the wings in place. After everything was aligned and the incidences were checked, holes were

Three forward fuselage formers are added.

The hatch frame is tacked to a 1/4-in. plywood plate that is nailed to the top of the crutch pieces. The distinctive, pyramidshaped fuselage is evident here.

drilled through for the spar bolts.

There was a lot of assembling, fitting and reassembling at this stage. When everything was checked, the wing spar box was glued together. After this assembly was dry, the wings were removed. The entire fuselage was then framed with the formers and stringers supported on the external crutch. Before removing the fuselage from the crutch some of the 1/8in. balsa sheeting was glued in place to make sure that the structure remained true and straight. Always remember, when adding stringers and sheeting to a fuselage, you must work alternately from side to side. Do NOT complete one side then do the next or else you WILL build a banana.

I promise, I’ve never done that of course; well, maybe once, a long time ago.

Horizontal Stabilizer One of many distinctive features of the Beaufighter is the dihedral tail.

This was added to the later Marks of the aircraft to improve directional control as larger and more powerful engines were used. This created another challenge to building this scale model. You couldn’t simply build the stabilizer flat on the build board, and then glue it to the aft fuselage; it would have to be built in two halves.

Also, the fuselage formers at the tail would have to be strong enough to support the rather large control

BRISTOL BEAUFIGHTER

9

10 The rear spar-box former where both rear spars are joined and bolted solidly together with eight, 6-32 cap screws. The front spar attaches the same way to the front spar-box former.

11

The wing and fuselage mate are completed. The crutches are clamped to the work bench and are ready to be used to support the rear fuselage formers.

12 The aft fuselage is framed up using two 1x4 pine boards as an external crutch to support the formers. Spring clamps are a necessity at this stage.

surfaces. Aircraft plywood was a logical choice but it would be much too heavy for a tail assembly. Instead, I laminated 1/8-in. end grain balsa and woven carbon-fiber cloth using epoxy resin as the glue. This let me create two strong but very lightweight formers that would support the stabilizers. The forward carbon fiber former was also used for the tail wheel mount. I love it when one part can do double duty, especially when you’re trying to save weight in a part.

As mentioned earlier, the stabilizers and elevators were sheeted with Fliteskin, a thin fiberglass sheet. The only downside is that this material does not go around compound curves. Therefore I shaped the stabilizer tips out of pink foam Follow us on twitter @rcsportflyer

Both carbon fiber/end grain balsa formers are in place. The tail wheel assembly mounts to the front former while the rear one supports the stab spars and elevator controls.

and glassed them. I have found that the best way to use FliteSkin is to start with balsa spars and ribs then glue the thin fiberglass to the ribs with thick cyanoacrylate (CA) glue. I hot-wire cut foam cradles to support tail surfaces, while the skins were being glued to the structures.

Note that the ailerons and flaps were also sheeted with FliteSkin. In fact, the flaps were assembled and sheeted directly on the wings in the flap wells. I really like this material because it is easy to work with and it gives sharp, scale-like trailing edges.

Rudder

The rudder was the only fabriccovered surface. Again, to keep the tail assembly as lightweight as

possible, I epoxied two sheets of 1/16-in. balsa together, using carbon fiber cloth as inner core. Then large lightening holes were drilled between the ribs. On cloth-covered surfaces I always use Solartex heat shrink fabric. I have never had a problem with the fabric sagging over time and epoxy primers adhere well to its surface. A scale rudder trim tab, made from thin aluminum litho plate, was added to replicate the prototype.

Empennage Alignment

The fun really started when it came time to align the tail surfaces to the fuselage and wing assemblies.

This would be the first time that the entire airframe was together in one RC-SF.COM

37

BRISTOL BEAUFIGHTER

The elevator control linkages are shown with the bearing block glued to the rear carbon fiber former. The former also supports the stabilizer’s spars at the correct dihedral angles.

13

piece; a real milestone! The wings had previously been aligned to the fuselage so the final step was to make sure that the tail surfaces were also in proper alignment. I used a laser, mounted on a tripod, to establish a horizontal reference plane that was

based on the familiar, lower-fuselage hatch frame. Then the stabilizers were fitted to the fuselage’s carbonlaminated formers using the laser as a reference for setting the correct dihedral angle. Two Robart® Incidence Meters, one on each stabilizer,

were used to match the angles of incidence. After everything was dry assembled and checked, the stabilizers were epoxied in place.

Aligning the vertical fin and rudder was relatively easy. It was simply a matter of measuring equal distances from each stabilizer tip to the top of the fin.

At this point in the construction, the Beaufighter was able to stand on its own gear—another momentous occasion! It was nice to revel in the moment but there was still a lot to do. All the molded fiberglass parts, including the nacelles and cowls, and the plugs for the canopy and cupola where the observer/navigator sits, still had to be fabricated. That’s a story in itself and is the subject of the next article—so stay tuned.

14

Up on its own two legs for the first time—an important milestone in the construction of the Beaufighter. Next step: molding the large nacelles and cowls.

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RC SPORT FLYER — september 2013

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BY Gene Cope

ASK-18 Build Part 5 T

It Was Done When the Wind Flew Under its Wings

his is the last installment of my build series on my 1/3-scale ASK-18 glider. It was a pretty big project, but it gave me a lot of satisfaction in building the model, and of course in flying it. It turns out that I’ve met all my goals for this scale glider, which really started about 10 years ago when I got the fiberglass fuselage from a friend. I want to end this series by explaining and detailing just what it took to get the airplane ready to fly.

Servos

The radio-control-system installation started when I created a program in my transmitter for the ASK-18. It began as a basic glider template that I then built upon. Note that my model is fitted with a Jeti 9-channel receiver, which provided

1 A 4-40 adjustable clevis linkage provides a solid drive between the servo arm and the elevator control horn.

The elevator servo plugs into a servo extension connector located in the fuselage saddle for the horizontal stabilizer.

40

RC SPORT FLYER — september 2013

2

control for both the ailerons and spoilers.

The servos I opted to use for the airframe started with MKS DS 6125, thin-wing digital servos. They provide 113.87oz-in. of torque when powered by 6.0 volts. I centered all servos, so that they would be properly referenced with respect to the control surfaces.

Then I installed the horizontal stabilizer’s servo. It was built into the bottom center of the horizontal stabilizer. It connects to the receiver by way of a servo extension, with the horizontal stabilizer’s connection in the saddle of the fuselage. The servo’s output uses a 4-40 adjustable control rod, with metal clevis, between the servo arm and elevator control horn.

The next servo I installed was a

ASK-18 Build Part 5

3

4 The HS-125 MG used for the tow-release servo was mounted to blocks epoxied to the bottom front of the fuselage.

The ball-bearing-supported bellcrank removes any rudder-cable tension from the MKS DS1210 rudder servo.

The top and bottom spoilers are very effective for killing lift. They also slow the glider as airbrakes, so you must keep the airspeed up on landing to avoid a stall.

5

6 The rudder cable connection consisted of homemade “S� attachments that could be removed from the rudder horns if required.

Follow us on twitter @rcsportflyer

The MKS DS6125 thin-wing aileron servo and 4-40 control linkage provide a solid 133.87-oz torque for aileron control.

RC-SF.COM

41

7

8 The aileron control horns were made from 4-mm cap screws that were potted with epoxy in the ailerons and then removed before the ailerons were covered.

Hitec RCD® HS-125 MG wing servo.

It is used to operate the tow release mechanism in the fuselage’s nose.

The tow release’s linkage is made from a 4-40, solder-type clevis that was soldered to a 1/16-in. wire cable.

The cable was then soldered to the tow-release pin. The transmitter is programmed such that the toggle switch on the upper left corner of the transmitter controls the servo.

For the rudder’s control I fitted the glider with a MKS DS1210 digital servo. It is installed on the right side of the main wheel. It connects to the rudder’s ball-bearing-mounted

9

control horn by way of a short linkage. The rudder’s control is by pull-pull cables. At the rudder’s control horns, the pull-pull cables attach to the control horns with homemade ”S” attachments that were fabricated from 0.047-in. music wire. These are short and strong and can be removed easily if needed.

As I explained in an earlier part of the series, the spoilers used were from Maxx Products. They are electric powered. There are two spoilers in each wing—one top and one bottom. The spoilers’ connection to the receiver uses a 6-in. “Y”

10 Two 4200-mAh NiMH, 6-volt battery packs are held in place by velcro tape on the forward end of the front wood deck.

42

The Jeti R9 receiver was placed in packing foam under the pilot’s seat. Note the seat mount bridge and the variometer too.

RC SPORT FLYER — september 2013

Two switches and a battery backer were attached to the back side of the instrument panel for easy switch operation and access.

harness. Then each wing’s spoiler combination uses one channel on the receiver.

Two MKS DS6125 thin-wing digital servos were used for aileron control.

They were fitted with 4-40 adjustable linkages, with metal clevises connecting to the servo arms and the ailerons’ control horns—one clevis was a solder type the other was threaded. The ailerons’ control horns were fabricated out of 4-mm cap screws. The screws were ground flat on each side to form the horn end.

Then the flat horn end was drilled with a 0.060-in. hole. The horns were glued into the ailerons with epoxy resin. Note that the threaded part was coated with Vaseline® prior to gluing them into the control surfaces.

In so doing, they were able to be unscrewed from the control surface once the resin cured, so that I could cover the control surfaces without their interference.

Each wing’s servo extensions terminate just past the root rib of the wing, into a six-pin Multiplex male connector. The connector is free to move in and out of the wing root. The connectors do, however, mate to fixed female ends that are glued into the fuselage’s wing roots, left and right. The ASK-18 is fitted with twisted, 36-in., 22-gauge-wire servo extensions that run from the female connectors in the wing roots to the receiver under the pilot’s seat.

The receiver mounts in foam.

Power for the ASK-18’s controls is from two, 4200-mAh NiMH battery

ASK-18 Build Part 5

The wings flex very much like those of the full-scale ASK-18 glider. The model is also very coordinated in the turns with the ailerons’ differential I have programmed into the transmitter’s template.

packs. I installed them just behind the 2-1/2 pounds of lead shot I used to balance the model. The packs are secured to the fuselage’s front deck by hook-and-loop material.

The battery leads connect to two EMS, heavy-duty, DSC switches. The switches connect to an EMS battery backer. The switches and battery backer are fastened to the back of the model’s instrument panel. In so doing, turning the receiver on and off means you just reach behind the instrument panel. The battery backer’s LED indicator shows on the

instrument panel—if a battery gets low the LED lights.

A Jeti brand altimeter/variometer was installed on the right side of the fuselage, in the nose area. To power it, it is connected to a empty channel on the receiver. The Picolario provides audio information for the pilot for receiver voltage, altitude in feet or meters, and a variometer tone.

Center of Gravity

The ASK-18’s center of gravity (CG) must be set between 3.812 in. and 4.625 in. back of the leading

11

edge of the wing. I selected a position 4.125 in. for the first flight. To CG the glider I used a nylon line that ran around the rear incidence pin and around the wing joiner. I did this on both sides. Then the model was hung such that when 2-1/2 pounds of No. 9 lead shot were added to the nose, the model balanced at the 4.125-in. mark. The lead shot was molded to fit the nose of the model by mixing it with about one ounce of epoxy resin. The lead shot and epoxy were then poured into Baggies®. The lead shot and epoxy mixture were then

12 Two and a half pounds of No. 9 lead shot, placed in two sandwich bags, were required to bring the center of gravity of the assembled ASK -18 into adjusting range.

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A formed nose weight resulted after mixing in one ounce of epoxy and working it through the lead shot, then placing it in the nose of the fuselage to cure.

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positioned in the glider’s nose and kneaded into place such that it fit the fuselage’s shape. After the epoxy cured, the weight was removed. The baggies were then neatly wrapped around the weight and taped. The weight was then repositioned in the nose of the fuselage. It was secured in the fuselage by a bead of Goop® adhesive around its edges.

After the Goop cured for about 24 hours, the batteries were then repositioned in the airframe. The glider’s CG was then double-checked and adjusted as needed with stick-on lead weights.

When the model was ready to fly it weighed in at 21pounds, 8 ounces.

At this weight, its wing loading is 15.7 oz / sq ft, which is actually pretty lightweight for a large-scale glider.

On final approach the ASK-18 has good penetration against the wind. Note, however, that it is not the kind of scale glider you will want to try to fly in a wind that is much above 20 mph. It is much more of an aerotow machine than a slope soaring glider.

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RC SPORT FLYER — september 2013

In Flight

The test flights and trimming were done at three flying sites. The maiden flight was made at Kiona Butte—a slope soaring site near Benton City, Washington. The first launch was done off the back side of the Butte because it’s a shallow slope with a huge field at the bottom to land out in if necessary. The model was to be launched into a 20-mph wind.

However, just as Wil started the run to launch the glider, the wind changed direction. As a result, he tripped and was forced to throw the glider as he fell. This flight was pretty much a dead-flat glide out into the field below. Surprisingly, there was no control trimming required.

The second flight was performed at Eagle Butte, which is across the

valley from Kiona. Wil was the launcher again. This time, however, the wind was blowing 20-mph straight into the face of the hill. The launch went off without incident.

I flew away from the hill for about 100 feet to gain airspeed. Then I let off the down elevator control and it started to climb in ridge lift. Wil took several photos, then I let him take the controls while I took more photos. After he landed the model he told me that the model flew very true to scale. In fact, the wings are built such that you must be careful with the airspeed so that the wings do not flutter. Control is excellent in pitch, roll and yaw. It’s important that you lead the turns a bit with rudder control. Also, the spoilers required some down elevator control

ASK-18 Build Part 5

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The loose plastic was folded and taped neatly before it was repositioned within the fuselage’s nose as a way to set the model’s CG.

compensation when they’re deployed.

Penetration is okay, but this model is not one you would want to fly in more than a 20-mph wind—it’s much more suited to a 10-mph breeze and thermal soaring.

The third flight of my ASK18 was done at the 2013 Yakima Aerotow event. There it was towed to altitude. For these flights I set the transmitter’s exponential settings for ailerons and elevator control at 20 percent. For its first flight it was towed to an altitude of 1,000 feet

A good bead of Goop adhesive around the lead nose weight holds it firmly in place, but makes it removable if necessary.

according to the Picolario. After release I flew it on a diagonal for about 200 yards, whereupon I found a thermal. It took a few turns of the 18 to find the thermal’s center. After the glider was center, each circle yielded roughly 100 ft of altitude gain. I circled it with mainly rudder control until it was at 2,000 feet above ground level. At that altitude I deployed the spoilers and circled down for an approach to landing. The spoilers were then deployed and the model landed smoothly.

14 Synopsis

The time required to complete my 1/3-scale ASK-18 project was well spent. It was a challenge at times to find the solutions to some of the construction methods and such. That said, it was fun to see the model coming together on my work bench at every stage of the build—fuselage, wings, empennage, etc. The final payoff was, however, experiencing the glider’s outstanding flight performance. This is a glider that will be giving me hours of soaring in thermals that are born and die at my RC airfield. What more could you ask of any airplane or glider?

Sources EMS Battery Backer emsjomar.com Esprit Model espritmodel.com Hitec RCD 12115 Paine Street Poway, CA 92064 Phone: 858-748-6948 Hitecrcd.com MKS Servos mksservosusa.com

Wil carries my ASK-18 out to the edge of the hill at Eagle Butte for its first real maiden flight, which lasted about 20 minutes or so—wind was blowing at about 20 mph straight into the hill face.

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BY Jeff Troy

Dallaire Sportster Preparing it for Covering

I

started the fuselage construction of my Nick Ziroli Fokker Dr.1 triplane in the August 2012 issue of RC Sport Flyer, fully intending to continue that project in this present installment. However, when I learned that the magazine was doing an extra special issue for October, I decided that finally covering one of my five subject models would be the perfect payoff for the newsstand customers. With this in mind, I will show you how I prepare a stickand-former airplane like my 108-in.

Shive Specialties Dallaire Sportster (pennvalleyhobbycenter.com) for covering with fabric.

If you are a new reader of my “Building Model Airplanes” series, please be aware that its purpose is not to simply follow the instructions and build a collection of airplanes. My intent is to pass along many helpful hints and tips to make building these and any other model airplanes easier, faster, better and more enjoyable.

Whenever the opportunities arise during construction, I will use that step to describe some little bit of information that you may find useful

1 when building your own models.

Covering Material

Preparing the Dallaire Sportster for fabric is fun and easy. There is a broad range of fabric coverings available to hobbyists. One of my favorites is Super Coverite®. I know this material on a firsthand basis because I was the product development techie for Coverite during the 1990s. If you went to any of the major aeromodeling

2

3 Before you can cover a model airplane, you must identify and repair any blemishes on its surfaces. Shop dings like this one can be corrected with lightweight balsa filler. Once the filler is dry you just do a little simple sanding.

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trade shows during that time— WRAM, Toledo, Pasadena, Chicago, Long Beach, Timonium, Puyallup and others—you may have caught one of my live, infomercial-style demonstrations with 21st Century Film and Fabric at the Coverite exhibit.

The Coverite business was sold to Hobbico® in the late ’90s, and many of its products are still available. In fact, the Dynaflite® Super Decathlon that I’m building for this series will

RC SPORT FLYER — september 2013

Try my feel-in-the-dark method to locate the errors that your eyes may have missed. Relax, close your eyes, shut out everything in the room and gently run your fingertips over every square inch of the airplane’s surface.

Dallaire Sportster eventually be covered with Coverite 21st Century Fabric. Super Coverite stayed on the books for many years, but was finally discontinued a few years ago. If you have a few rolls of this material in your stockpile, this and the following segment will give you the right excuse to get them out and follow along. If not, you can feel secure in knowing that the fabric-covering techniques I will demonstrate can be used confidently with virtually any iron-on, aeromodeling fabric.

Solartex is a popular brand that works well, and of course, there’s Coverite 21st Century Fabric, which doesn’t require sealing or painting of any kind. If you don’t object to applying adhesive over your model’s airframe components before you cover them, alternate raw materials

such as Stits Poly-Lite from Chip Mull at F&M enterprises (sales@ stits.com) and Koverall from the Sig Manufacturing Company (sigmfg. com) are always first-class choices.

Regardless of the material you choose, you’ll have to get your model ready to receive it. Here’s how I prepared my Shive Specialties Dallaire Sportster.

Prep Work

The Dallaire’s airframe components and all of its primary accessories have been addressed in previous installments in this series.

At this point, it’s just a matter of final preparation of the built-up wood components that will receive covering: the fuselage, stabilizer, elevators, vertical fin, rudder, and that huge, undercamber wing.

4

My first—and primary—lesson is this: If you cover garbage with blue material, you will not produce a beautiful model. The result can only be blue garbage! Covering does not hide mistakes nor sloppy workmanship. In fact, it calls attention to them. Covering isn’t difficult, but bear in mind that what you cover, good or bad, is what will determine the result. The first step is a thorough, visual examination of your model’s components.

Look them over carefully—every square inch of every part that will come into contact with the covering material. Are there any bumps? Glue globs? Hills or valleys? Gouges or scratches? Cracked or broken sticks?

The visual examination will show you a lot about what needs to be fixed, but it’s not enough.

5 Pay close attention to joints of every type. My “feel in the dark” technique will turn up a slew of blemishes that you never knew were there. So, close your eyes and take a good long feel of the airplane.

6

Any area where sheeting blends into a leading edge, trailing edge or spar is a sure spot to check for smoothness. If you feel a bump, ding or valley of any kind, it must be repaired before you start covering the airplane.

7 If you want great looking wing covering, the structure you cover must be great looking underneath. There should never be a high or low spot where the ribs meet the leading edge, trailing edge, tip pieces or spars.

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Hobby-Lite Filler by Hobbico is lightweight and easy to apply. It comes in white, and in a light-beige “balsa” tone that’s ideal for wooden structures. Note the jar of water next to the filler tub.

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Feel In The Dark The next step is my “feel in the dark.” While it may sound like a bad date from the ’50s, feel in the dark is the best trick in the house for catching the blemishes your eyes may have missed.

How do you do it? Easy! Start with a small component, like the vertical fin or rudder. Find a comfortable chair and sit down.

Hold the part in one hand, close your eyes and concentrate, tuning out everything in the room but that component. With your other hand, gently run your fingertips over the part, using your sense of touch to alert you to any imperfections in the model’s construction. Gently touch each rib-to-spar joint, each

rib-to-leading-edge and trailing-edge joint. Feel the areas where sheeting, if any, contacts the structure. Feel any bumps, pits or rough spots? Feel ridges where a rib sticks up over or doesn’t quite come up to the same line as a leading edge, trailing edge or spar?

Use the feel-in-the-dark method to identify every error, correcting every one of them before proceeding further. Sanding will handle the high spots, and low spots can be repaired with good-quality balsa filler or by adding bits of scrap wood and sanding them flush. My filler of choice is Hobbico Hobby-Lite, which comes in white and a light-tan “balsa” tone.

Sanding In most cases, especially flat

8

9 Try my method of applying filler. Use one finger to wet the surface of the model where the filler will be applied, then use another finger to wipe the filler into the area that needs to be repaired. Wetting the surface helps the filler penetrate the wood grain and get a better grip. It gets the filler into the wood instead of just on the wood.

Tee-Bars and Easy-Touch Sanders are great for working flat surfaces and roughing-out curves. For final sanding on curved surfaces such as wingtips, leading edges and rounded cowls, try the foam-backed ADC Mini-Sander or the Sanding Block Dual Grit (120/240), shown here, from Stevens AeroModel.

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10 Cut plastic trash bags to use as masks when painting your model’s landing gear. Paper absorbs liquid, and paint is liquid, so stay away from newspaper and other common-error paper choices. Cut slits in the plastic that will allow the gear legs to pass.

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surfaces, sanding with a bar sander will do the trick. You’ve already rough-sanded the model with 100grit paper, so try moving down to 180 or 220 and sanding until all the scratches from the 100 are smooth, then follow up with 320 until all the scratches from the 220 are gone. For a film-covered model, I gradually take the sanding steps down to 600-grit, wet-or-dry (used dry), but for fabric, 220 is more than fine enough, and 320 is more like a show of vanity.

The Great Planes® Easy-Touch® Bar Sander or an Applied Design Corporation (ADC) Tee-Bar is great for flats and rough curvatures, but when it comes to fine-sanding rounded surfaces like wingtips, leading edges or other graceful

RC SPORT FLYER — september 2013

Use masking tape to close the gaps in the plastic around the leg exits. Make sure that the masks are down flat on the model’s surface so they can’t block the paint’s path to the legs.

Dallaire Sportster curves, there’s nothing like the foampadded ADC Mini-Sander or the Sanding Block Dual Grit (120/240) from Stevens Aeromodel. A gentle smoothing with either of these tools will remove any remaining fuzz, and help you get those graceful curves you’re looking to achieve.

Landing Gear What about your model’s landing gear? If it’s a wire arrangement like the Dallaire’s, it will rust and look horrible over time, if it doesn’t already look nasty. I like to paint any exposed music-wire bits on my models, and a good, one-step paint for this is LustreKote® by TopFlite® (bestrc.com). The Dallaire’s gear legs are installed and soldered together during the model’s fuselage

construction, so the gear cannot be removed for painting. It will have to be painted on the model, and the fuselage must be protected by a mask.

Never mask with newspaper.

Paper absorbs liquid and paint is liquid, so instead, use cut sections of plastic trash bags. Cut two slits that will allow the legs to pass, then wrap the plastic around the fuselage, sealing the wood around the legs with masking tape so that only the legs protrude from the plastic. Cut a few small lengths or 320- or 400-grit wet-or-dry sandpaper, and use them to sand the bare wire smooth of any rust or oxidation. The easiest way is to fold it over the wire and run it up and down the length of wire, rotating slightly in subsequent passes to get

12

the wire clean all around.

Wipe any residue with lacquer thinner on a paper towel, wait a minute or two and prepare to spray.

Pick a LustreKote color that pleases your eye, and shake the can until the metal mixing ball is free and bangs around for a full two minutes. This, incidentally, is why some modelers refer to spray cans as “rattle cans.” If you want the best possible spray job with a rattle can, place the can in a sauce pan, put it in the sink and run hot water into the pan for four or five minutes before spraying. Do not, under any circumstances, heat the can on the stove or in the oven!

Don’t glom on the paint or all you’ll get are drips and runs. Instead, apply several light coats, called “mist

13 Wrap the plastic mask around the fuselage and tape down the overlaps. Seal any gaps in the masks so the paint cannot reach the wood. You want to paint only the gear legs.

14

Don’t forget the tailskid. Thats one is a quick-and-easy wrap and tape. So take the few extra minutes to prep it for painting at the same time you do the main landing gear struts and legs.

15 Use 320- or 400-grit, wet-or-dry paper, used dry, to remove any rust or oxidation from the gear legs and tailskid. Fold it over and work it back and forth in a circular motion to reach every area of the metal.

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Wipe the metal clean with lacquer thinner before painting. This removes any residue from the sandpaper, as well as skin oils and other unseen contaminants that may be present on the wire.

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Dallaire Sportster

16

17 Apply the fuelproof paint in mist coats—one big, wet coat will drip and run, ruining your preparation work on the landing gear and skid. I use TopFlite LustreKote paint because it’s fuelproof, easy to use, and coats simple surfaces, such as music-wire landing gear and wooden, hold-down dowels without having to use primer.

The LustreKote line offers a good primer. I recommend using it prior to painting larger-area surfaces with LustreKote paint.

coats” over the gear until the paint achieves “hiding,” which is paint-speak for full coverage. Wait approximately two to three minutes between mist coats to prevent wet buildup. Wait an hour or two for the paint to be dry to the touch, and carefully remove the plastic masks. Try not to scrape or gouge the wires while the paint is still on the soft side. LustreKote should thoroughly set and attain its maximum fuel resistance within 72 hours.

Choosing Colors My final step before covering the airplane is figuring out how I want the model to look. This means choosing my colors and designing

a scheme that will complement the lines of the model. Most of us can visualize well enough, but I find that it helps to commit my visuals to paper. You don’t have to be an artist.

Just make rough outlines of the model’s components, then draw a few different schemes to see how they will look. Change a line here, change another there and before long, you’ll come up with exactly what you want.

Pick the colors you like—those you see best in the air—and get ready to work your magic.

That’s It

Well, that’s it for now. The Dallaire Sportster is framed, sanded, prepped

and ready to receive an attractive finish. In the next installment, I will show you the method I use to cover a stick-and-former model with ironon fabric. I think you’ll enjoy it.

Many of the techniques I describe in this “Building Model Airplanes” series for RC Sport Flyer have been demonstrated in previous installments. If you are enjoying the series, and find your building skills improving from the information presented, please consider having back issues on hand for reference— just in case you want a refresher or may have missed something along the way. Back issues can be ordered from the publisher, and subscriptions to the magazine are available at $24.95 for 12 issues at rc-sf.com. Just click the subscribe button on the homepage.

Building model airplanes is fun, and there’s no feeling more rewarding than stepping back from an ongoing project, looking at what you’ve accomplished and mulling over the “you” that’s become a built-in part of the model. This is art, my friends, and your skills are surely developing.

Check the text for different choices in fabric coverings that will nicely complement the Dallaire Sportster and similar models. In my next installment, I will show you how I cover my stick-and-former models with iron-on fabric. I hope you’ll be here to share the experience with me, especially the technique for covering the Dallaire’s undercamber wing.

18 50

Want to know what your covering scheme will look like before you apply it over your model? Try drawing out a few different design schemes on sheets of paper. Trial and error on paper is a lot easier and less costly than trial and error with a real covering job on an RC airplane. When you have the scheme that lights your fire, choose colors that work well for you in flight—you need to be able to see it to flyer it, right?

RC SPORT FLYER — september 2013

BY Rob Caso

Competitors Part II Dave Wigley

10 Scale Questions for Top Gun Pros

“Mr. (four time) Top Gun” winner certainly needs no introduction from me. Dave has been a top scale competitor for years and most recently won just about everything there was to win at this year’s Top Gun event. I recommend hanging on his every word:

1. How do you pick a scale subject for competition?

I pick a scale subject based primarily on a full-scale prototype that I am passionate about. Such efforts require a substantial time investment, so it had better be something that keeps your interest level up during the process. I try to stay away from airplanes that have been extensively modeled, but that are still mainstream enough to facilitate a good documentation package. I also consider subjects that have a number of operating features as a way to garner interest and scale points. From there, I try to design around the prototype’s operating idiosyncrasies, while still maintaining scale outline, so that the resulting model is flyable and I go to great lengths to hide RC equipment.

In process shot shows all the composite work required for the Beaufighter. Dave, how do you get it out of the shop?

Mr. “Top Gun” takes another minute to accommodate the frequent requests to pose with his model.

2. How long have you been building scale flying models?

I have been involved with giant-scale models for the past 25 years. My first model was a glow-powered C-130 built from redrawn plans. It always seemed to come back with three (or fewer) engines still turning!

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RC SPORT FLYER — september 2013

Competitors – Part II

Tom Wolf

L

ast month, RC Sport Flyer presented Mark Frankel’s responses to my “Ten Questions,” and for this month’s issue I managed to corner Tom Wolf and Dave Wigley.

I stalked Tom for months prior to finally meeting him at last year’s Top Gun competition. Unfortunately, he didn’t make the event this year, probably because he knew I would assault him with another blizzard of questions on his stunning, 1/5-scale Mosquito, one of my top five favorite aircraft. Here’s what he had to say:

1. How do you pick a scale subject for competition?

I like to pick subjects that I find personally exciting and that are not commonly modeled. Also, I think it is important that the subject is something that will be interesting to the judges. Judges are human, and I believe that presenting an airplane that captures their attention will go a long way towards getting the best scores possible. Finally, there must be sufficient information on the aircraft to support the generation of a competitive documentation package.

Tom used blown-up Brian Taylor plans for the build of his model that took him over two years to complete.

Tom and his 124-in., 55-pound Mosquito. Power is provided by a pair of OS BGX-1 35-cc engines. The finish is Warbird Colors.

2. How long have you been building scale flying models?

I’ve been interested in scale models from when I first learned to fly RC aircraft. I built my first scale model in 1970, which was a Curtis Jenny that I built from plans. Then it was a Nieuport 11 that was built from blown-up plans from a Guillows kit. I’ve been building scale airplanes ever since, and competing seriously for the last 11 years.

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Dave Wigley

3. How long did your subject take to design and build?

The Beaufighter took the better part of five years to construct. It is my own design of a relatively complex subject.

4. Why did you select that particular scale?

I have always felt that multi-engine aircraft are better modeled in the larger scales—they simply look better and have enough wing volume to support the extra weight. I also had to fit a pair of flat twin engines, but I wanted the model to be manageable from a transportation standpoint. Furthermore, 1/5 scale is a very popular, giant-scale size.

The “Beau” is captured on a Top Gun takeoff. Dave reports that its enormous wing area handles its 85 lb quite well.

5. What was the biggest challenge you faced in modeling your particular subject?

Unquestionably, the landing gear was the biggest challenge to design and build, which took over a year from start to finish. My goals with the landing gear were of course to make it functional and reliable, but it also had to replicate the look of the prototype. I also had to design and build custom air cylinders for the model since none in the size I needed were commercially available. A close second to the landing gear was the “porcupine” exhaust for which I had to make forming jigs and I had to further develop my skills to braze the parts together. I do enjoy a challenge, however, and I am constantly looking to improve my skills as a modeler.

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RC SPORT FLYER — september 2013

Tom Wolf

Competitors – Part II

3. How long did your subject take to design and build?

It took over two years to complete the Mosquito, which began as a set of enlarged plans from a 71-in.wingspan, Brian Taylor design. From there, significant design changes were required to make the project workable, including structural changes to the fuselage and wing to accommodate two-piece, plug-in wings (versus a one-piece wing per the plans), additional fuselage formers, revised wing spar, and other items.

4. Why did you select that particular scale?

I had been competing with a 1/8-scale Mosquito that I built about 20 years ago, and it flew so well that I wanted to do something larger. I picked 1/5-scale because it resulted in a plane about the size I wanted and the commercial availability of scale details. A bonus with this scale is that detailing is easier because everything is simply larger. Also, to be competitive at the top level these days, you pretty much have to go with the larger aircraft. They present better during static judging, and the flying qualities of the larger aircraft are far superior.

The “Skeeter� on approach at the recent Gunsmoke scale event in which Tom took first place in the Expert class.

5. What was the biggest challenge you faced in modeling your particular subject?

There is no commercially available, scale landing gear for the Mosquito, so I had to design and fabricate the entire landing gear. While this presented a significant challenge up front, the gear has worked perfectly.

6. Did you incorporate laser-cut, CNC parts or parts made using three-dimensional CAD or printing technologies?

No parts were made with any of these technologies, although the design of the landing gear and the exhaust manifolds was done using Pro-Engineer, which is a 3D CAD tool.

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Dave Wigley

6. Did you incorporate laser-cut, CNC parts or parts made using three-dimensional CAD or printing technologies?

While the basic airframe parts were cut and assembled by hand, I employed some CAD work for the landing gear and certain components thereof were machined using a CNC milling machine. Late in the build, during the fit out of the model, I used 3D printed and laser-cut parts for some of the scale details.

Molds for the numerous fiberglass parts, however, were all made by hand.

Dave’s Westland Wyvern is shown on a fast fly-by at Top Gun—TG rules allow a model to compete for five years before it must be retired.

The Wyvern certainly meets Dave’s “unusual subject” requirements. Its generous flying surfaces make for a great flying model.

7. Why do you compete in flying scale model competitions?

I like to push myself to excel and I like the challenge of creating realism in my scale models, both in flight and on the ground. I try to learn new techniques with each model that I build and to experiment with new ideas—competing is the proving ground for doing something new. I also gather new techniques and ideas from fellow modelers and I like to see how they solved particular challenges in their models.

8. What recommendations do you have for “wanna be” scale competitors?

Just get out there and do it! Ask a ton of questions, attend as many scale events as you can and learn from the other competitors. You also cannot be afraid of criticism and should simply view it as a way to improve your modeling skills. Generally, the scale modeling community is a very helpful bunch.

Dave’s first “Mr. Top Gun” victory was achieved with his self-designed Wyvern. The aft propeller is only a freewheeling dummy.

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“Torpedoed up” and it awaits another sortie. Six .303 machine guns and four 20-mm cannons provided additional anti-shipping firepower for the full-scale.

Tom Wolf

Competitors – Part II

Here you see the model’s flaps set at full for another “grease job” landing. Tom reports that the model is responsive and maneuverable, but also stable.

More Gunsmoke 2013 action. While Tom made lost-foam molds for the fiberglass cowlings, the rest of the model is conventionally constructed.

7. Why do you compete in flying scale model competitions?

I view competition as a vehicle to validate the work I put into researching and building the model. I use the feedback from static judging and comments from my peers to improve the model or to do a better job on the next one. That whole process is one that I find very rewarding. I also enjoy seeing the work of other modelers and learning from them. The folks that compete in scale are some of the nicest modelers around and I’ve made many new friends over the years. To summarize, I enjoy the challenge of competition, the opportunity to learn, and the social aspects of attending these events.

8. What recommendations do you have for “wanna be” scale competitors?

First, don’t be intimidated by the idea of entering scale competition. Every event I’ve ever attended warmly welcomed newcomers, and you will find that your fellow competitors are a very friendly and helpful group. Select an airplane that is a good match for your flying skills and, once it is completed, get enough practice flight time so that you are completely comfortable flying it. Read the rule book prior to the event so that you know what is expected. Your best approach at your first event is to treat it as if it were just another day at your home airfield: The goal in the beginning is not to win or place near the top— just being there should be considered a successful outcome. Finally, learn from what you experience during the event, and watch what others are doing. A lot of the “tricks” of scale modeling can be picked up by just hanging around other scale modelers and by asking questions. Also, many scale events have entry-level classes, which are a very good way to get your feet wet in scale competition. You will get the learning opportunities described above, without the need to build a high-quality model or having to put together a full-blown scale documentation package.

The big Mossie taxis in from another sortie. Brakes synchronized with the engines are used to keep the model straight during takeoff.

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Initially employed as an unarmed reconnaissance aircraft, the all-wood Mosquito held the speed record for 2-1/2 years during WWII. RC-SF.COM

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Dave Wigley The Beaufighter tests a wheel in the murderous ’13 Top Gun crosswind. Contra-rotating propellers help keep it straight.

A “textbook” torpedo drop by the Wyvern. The prototype was equipped with a turboprop engine fitted just behind the pilot.

9. Do you feel that kit or plan-built models can be competitive?

Yes, kit and plan built models can be competitive if the model is built to match the supporting documentation. This does not necessarily mean “accurate” it just has to match what the builder presents to document his model. Nevertheless, this documentation must be authoritative and it can take many forms: photos, drawings, or even paintings—whatever the rules allow. Take the time up front to make sure what you’re building is supported by what you plan to show to the judges.

10. Any other comments?

To do well in competition, a modeler has to both build and fly well, so the selected subject should match his skills in these areas. Focus on improving your weak points and always strive to learn more. Also make sure that you know the rules of the competitions you are entering. It is very important that you practice flying your competition model. Certainly, there is risk in doing this, however every model is different and you must master your model’s flight characteristics to be successful in a competition. When I practice, I develop a flight plan of what particular aspect of the flight I want to improve and I follow this very closely. The same goes for flying competitions—I have a written flight plan and I practice and rehearse the flight in my mind before I actually do it. “Perfect practice, makes perfect”.

An “in process” shot of the Beaufighter’s scale retractable landing gear, a focal point on the model. Dave had the tires custom made.

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RC SPORT FLYER — september 2013

Tom Wolf

Competitors – Part II

This is the business end of the Mosquito. The .303’s above were used to line up the target and the 20-mm’s below obliterated it.

The Mosquito looks fast standing still. The model is equipped with an opening bomb bay and a full compliment of wingmounted ordinance.

9. Do you feel that kit or plan-built models can be competitive?

Absolutely, IF care is taken to make sure that the resulting aircraft is an accurate representation according to the scale documentation package, and the appropriate scale detail and craftsmanship are present in the completed model. The biggest issues with kits and plans are deviations in outline, cross-section or contour.

These can be corrected if they are identified before the model is completed, however one must first do some careful comparisons with three-view drawings and photographs. The last place you want to discover that your stabilizer outline is incorrect is during static judging, so spend the time with these details before construction is started. Obviously, there are some “scale” kits that are completely unsuitable for competition due to the amount of redesign that is required. A little research up front can avoid that pitfall.

10. Any other comments?

If you like to build and enjoy detail work, scale modeling is a very rewarding pastime. There is a nice mix of aviation history, engineering, pride of workmanship and camaraderie. To me, there is nothing more satisfying than to see a well-executed scale airplane flown in a prototypical manner.

Incredibly, the scale and functional landing gear on Tom’s Mosquito was fabricated entirely by hand using conventional materials and tools.

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BY Daniel Holman

Aerobatics Part 6 Building Precision into Your Piloting

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t the RC airfield, watching other people fly their airplanes, I am impressed with one kind of pilot. That pilot is not the one who flies as low as possible, makes the airplane flop around the sky as fast as his or her thumbs can jam the sticks, or even the one who performs the craziest looking 3D maneuver. What is impressive is a precise and consistent flying style. It doesn’t matter what type of airplane is being flown, nor what kind of maneuvers are being performed. If pilots are flying with precision, accuracy and consistency, I enjoy watching their flights.

Regardless of where you are with your aerobatic pilot skills, it’s never too early to work on making your flying precise. As I said earlier in

this series, most people and judges would rather see a simple maneuver flown precisely, than a more complex maneuver flown sloppily.

Having said that, let’s look at some of the specific points that make each maneuver—as well as your flying style—precise.

Wind

My brother, Michael, took this beautiful picture of the Extreme Flight 104-in. Extra 300 with Mt. Hood in the background while I was practicing for the Extreme Flight Championships last month.

Lines and Radiuses

Just as important as the aerobatic maneuvers that you perform, are the lines on which you perform them.

Making these lines and radiuses precise requires not only that the airplane’s heading be right, but also that it has the proper wind correction. In all major aerobatic competitions, lines are judged not by the airplane’s heading, but by the flight path vector. In high winds, keeping the flight’s geometry symmetrical and precise requires that the airplane crab into the wind whenever flying perpendicular to it.

On a horizontal line, the only axis Once the airplane is pointed into the wind, a small amount of opposite control (left rudder, in this case) must be held to prevent the tail from acting like a weathervane and pointing the nose farther into the wind.

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Aerobatics Part 6

Wind

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Top View

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1 that should ever deviate from the flight path is yaw. Rolling should never be part of wind correction and the airplane should stay solidly level in both the pitch and roll axis. On a vertical line however, depending on the airplane’s roll orientation, this crabbing may be in the yaw or pitch axis. Most well-designed aerobatic airplanes self-correct in some wind conditions, but there is always plenty left for the pilot to do, especially in the pitch axis on a vertical line.

One common misconception about wind correction is that the airplane always requires a control input that turns the airplane’s heading into the wind. On the contrary, once the airplane’s nose is pointed Follow us on twitter @rcsportflyer

adequately into the wind, a slight amount of opposite control must be held. In other words, if you are performing a vertical up-line with the wind coming from the airplane’s left, once the nose is pointed into the wind, a slight amount of right rudder is required to keep the airplane from yawing harder than necessary into the wind. Always remember that the airplane’s tail section often acts as a weathervane and you must prevent that from happening while maintaining a straight flight path vector.

Another aspect of wind correction is airspeed control on up-wind and down-wind lines. This is something that must be felt more

Performing a precise rolling circle in the wind requires lots of wind correction with airspeed. At point 1, the airplane should be flying at the slowest comfortable airspeed because of the tail wind. At point 2, the airplane’s flight path vector should have changed 90 degrees. This requires turning the airplane just past 90 degrees to correct for the wind. As soon as the airplane points into the wind after point 2, the airspeed must be increased to maintain its same groundspeed. At point 3, maximum airspeed is required and consequently, less aileron control is needed to keep the roll rate consistent.

At point 4, the airplane has not quite turned 90 degrees from point 3, but the flight path vector should have been. When this point is passed, the throttle must be decreased to keep the airplane’s ground speed consistent. The last 90 degrees back to point 1 will require the most control throw and although you want to keep the ground speed constant, a slight amount of throttle is needed to keep the model’s control authority strong.

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than anything. Although it looks impressive to keep both of these lines equal in groundspeed, this can create a problem with the maneuvers that you perform on this line. If your model’s groundspeed remains constant in high wind conditions, its airspeed will vary greatly, causing the airplane to respond to control inputs differently. Performing a snap roll when the airplane’s airspeed is 100 mph will be much more difficult than at 50 mph because all the control surfaces will be much more effective.

On the other side of the spectrum, performing a snap roll just above stall speed will be very difficult to execute properly because the control surfaces are sluggish at that airspeed.

Because of this, I always aim to find a happy medium between keeping groundspeed and airspeed consistent in such a way that the highest and lowest airspeeds are both within the comfortable range for the maneuvers that I will perform on that line.

When performing a large rolling circle in high winds, you don’t have as many options for airspeed control because the circle needs to be round, and the roll rate should remain constant. Because of this, it is critical to keep the groundspeed as close to consistent as possible above all else.

If the airplane’s ground speed slows down when flying it into the wind, the roll rate will also have to slow in order to hit the cardinal points throughout the rolling circle. (In a two-roll rolling circle, for instance, the cardinal points are shown when the airplane passes 180 degrees of roll for every 90 degrees of heading

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3

Wind

2

4

1

change and so on.) Consequently, when the airspeed is increased in a rolling circle, the aileron control must be decreased slightly to keep the roll rate consistent. When you enter a rolling circle flying downwind, always try to enter it with your airplane’s lowest comfortable airspeed so that you will not have to overspeed the airplane on the upwind section to keep everything consistent and round.

Making all maneuver radiuses

8

Performing a round loop in the wind requires a good eye. Because of the wind direction in this diagram, the elevator pull between point 1 and 2 will be very light.

The airplane will be traveling vertically before its heading is vertical. Between points 2 and 3, the elevator control must be increased slightly to keep the radius round. As soon as the airplane reaches point 3 at the top, the throttle must be decreased so that the top of the loop is not flattened out. The elevator control must remain constant until the airplane’s heading just passes vertical, at which point it must be relaxed slightly through the last quarter of the loop. Remember that in calm conditions, more elevator control is needed on the bottom half of the loop than on the top half.

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6

Aerobatics Part 6 Here you can see a hard, snap-roll break in action. This picture captures the fraction of a second between the pitch break and the rudder and aileron inputs that stall one wing and initiate the roll.

congruent is not very difficult, but there are a few things to remember.

First, in a loop and any other radius, more pitch authority is required on the bottom half of the loop than on the top. Envision that, and know that it holds true for every radius that your airplane will fly.

Unlike a straight line, correcting for wind through any radius often requires correction and crabbing in the pitch and yaw axis depending on the wind direction.

Mastering wind correction builds your piloting skills in many ways and really exercises your reaction time.

At times, the wind will be constant and easy to deal with, but can change in a split second. Many contests are won or lost simply due to weather.

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Those who practice in all conditions will truly benefit in the long run and will be at home flying when others are struggling.

Snap rolls

One of the most extensively used maneuvers in almost all kinds of aerobatics is the snap roll. The name “snap roll” is very encompassing as this maneuver can be done a multitude of different ways on all flight axes, and from all attitudes.

A true snap roll happens when one wing stalls and remains stalled through the roll. Many people think that any roll performed with an elevator and rudder input is a snap roll, but this is far from the truth.

A proper snap roll starts out with a

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pitch “break,” immediately followed by aileron and rudder in the same direction. Once the airplane pitches up aggressively, the immediate rudder input stalls one wing and increases the roll rate as the wing that is still generating lift rolls around it. As soon as the wing stalls, the elevator is relaxed slightly, but a small amount is held through the maneuver. Stopping a snap roll consists of centering the controls abruptly right before the airplane reaches the desired exit attitude. With all well-designed aerobats, the delay between centering the controls and stopping the snap roll is almost unnoticeable, but it does exist.

A negative snap roll is really the same maneuver with a negative pitch break. As soon as the nose pitches with down elevator, one wing is stalled with the immediate application of rudder and opposite aileron.

Exiting a negative snap roll is exactly the same as exiting a positive snap roll. One thing to keep in mind with negative snap rolls is the fact that less rudder control is required to attain the same roll rate as a positive snap Here is the snap roll broken down. Notice the hard pitch break which is immediately followed by left rudder and aileron.

As soon as the rudder and aileron are added, about half of the elevator control should be relaxed. Except for minor wind corrections, these controls should remain constant through the snap roll until right before the desired exit attitude is achieved, at which point they are all neutralized.

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Here you can see the control throws that I set in my transmitter for the model’s low-rates. It is more than enough throw, but I prefer it that way.

Programming a Snap Rate

roll. This rule holds true for almost all airplanes, but there are a few out there that contradict this. You will be able to determine this very easily with your airplane.

Now that we have examined the snap roll, let’s take a look at the different variations of this maneuver.

Snap rolls can be performed with only 180 degrees of roll, or consecutively all across the sky.

They can start and exit in upright, knife-edge, or inverted flight as well, regardless of the airplane’s flight path, and require slightly different breaking techniques for each of these. When performing a knife-edge-to-knifeedge snap roll, I break the snap using slightly less elevator than I would from upright, but use more rudder control immediately following the break. After the first hard rudder control, I relax it back to the point that I would use in a normal snap roll.

To stop the snap roll in a knifeedge, I abruptly center the elevator and aileron sticks, but hold just a hair of top rudder so that the nose does not come back all the way to level and cause a drop in altitude. You must be careful with the rudder in this case, though, as holding too much rudder will prohibit the stalled wing from regaining lift. If this happens, the snap roll will only slow down, but will not stop correctly. As soon as the airplane stops the snap roll in 64

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a knife-edge attitude, the rudder must smoothly be increased to re-achieve the positive angle of attack required to maintain altitude.

Performing snap rolls on a vertical line requires about the same amount of elevator and rudder authority regardless of whether the airplane is climbing or diving.

This is because when on a vertical up-line, although the airspeed is lower, the high throttle setting keeps maximum airflow over the tail surfaces causing them to be highly effective. On the other hand, because the airspeed is low, the ailerons outside the propeller’s wash are not quite as powerful as they are at high airspeeds. Consequently, more aileron authority is needed.

On a downline, even with idle throttle, the airspeed will be enough that, once again, very little control authority is needed from the elevator and rudder. However, because of the high airspeed, the ailerons are super effective and although using a regular snap-rate aileron is fine, a decreased amount of aileron is sufficient to produce the same roll rate.

Many people ask me if I program my transmitter to use a separate snap rate. The answer is no. Many pilots do use different snap rates and some go so far as to have different snap rates for upline snaps, down-line snaps, etc. There is a lot of personal preference in this, but I really don’t like flipping switches and would rather learn the airplane rather than rely on different rates.

This helps with other aspects of your piloting skills as well.

As I mentioned before, I have three rates programmed into my transmitter for my airplanes. Foamies excluded, my high-rate setting has full throw on all the control surfaces.

My lower, mid-rate setting is what I use for general freestyle flying.

My low-rate setting is what I use for precision flying. It has the right amount of aileron for a fast snap roll as well as enough rudder for hammerhead stalls, and more than enough elevator to perform any precision aerobatic maneuver. The reason that I put more control throw into the low rate is to provide more control authority than is required to perform the maneuver under perfect conditions. I never want to find myself needing more control authority during a snap roll, or any maneuver for that matter, to correct for wind.

On most of my airplanes, the low-rate setting has around 30 degrees of elevator throw, 35 degrees of rudder throw, and roughly 30

Aerobatics Part 6 degrees of aileron throw. To find the perfect amount of aileron required to perform good snap rolls, I start with about 35 degrees of aileron and slowly decrease that until I can see that the ailerons are at their most efficient point. This point is different for every airplane and I find it by performing snap rolls on a straight line at about 70 percent throttle.

Most airplanes will actually snap roll faster with about 30 to 35 degrees of aileron throw than they would with a 40-plus setting. As you slowly back the control throw down from 40 degrees or so, the airplane’s snap roll rate should increase slightly until you reach the point at which the ailerons pass their maximum efficiency. At that point, the snap-roll rate will decrease with the aileron throw. I recommend finding the snap-roll rate that you are comfortable with and setting the low-rate aileron throw in such a way that you use an amount of travel at or below the aileron’s maximum efficiency. If you use aileron throw above this point, it acts as an airbrake through the maneuver.

Overview

It may seem like I covered only a few points in this article, but many of these techniques are very foundational and are applicable to many aspects of your flying. Think carefully about them and start applying them to your flying the next time you’re at the airfield. These fundamental techniques, if applied correctly, will help your piloting in many ways. Enjoy the summer weather and go burn some gas (or electrons) and practice, practice, practice—even if it’s windy!

Have a great month and we’ll pick up my aerobatic series in the next issue of RC Sport Flyer magazine with Aerobatics Part 7.

When performing vertical snap rolls, the required elevator and rudder inputs are about the same regardless of whether the airplane is climbing or diving. However, the ailerons are not as effective on an up-line because they are, for the most part, out of the prop wash and do not have as much airflow over them.

Consequently, down-line snap rolls rotate faster than up-line snap rolls with the same amount of aileron control.

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1 Tail authority is good at this point because of the high power setting, but the ailerons are not as powerful.

2 On a down-line snap, all controls are highly effective because of the high airspeed. An equal roll rate can be achieved with less aileron control.

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BY James VanWinkle

The World Models

™

TAMEcat 40 ARF

A Tame kitty That Loves to Eat Electrons Ready for action, the TameCat is an easy model to fly that delivers good performance for even the intermediate pilot to fly.

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nspired by the F-14 Tomcat, the TameCat is a fighter that won’t bite its pilot. The World Models™ has taken a design originally created

by Jeff Troy, a longtime RC pilot and contributing editor, and configured it for electric power Two lightweight pilots are included in the kit, adding to The wings are glued together with epoxy. Use tape to rather than nitro the scale look of the model. Double-stick tape lets you hold the wings together as the glue cures. The adhesive install them in seconds. sticks to the tape, so wax paper provides a barrier. methane. Jeff published his plans for the TameCat in Model Aviation magazine many years a pure pleasure to fly. throws instead of sticking with ago. It is now available as an electricIts steerable nose wheel makes those recommended. As a result, I powered, almost-ready-to-fly (ARF) ground handling very good, with had to land the model and dial out a airplane from The World Models. superb control as it rolls down the lot of throw from the transmitter’s runway for liftoff. programming. Once done, it took In the Air In the air, my TameCat did not care of the issue. When I got back Flying the TameCat couldn’t be need any control trim other than a home, I checked the model’s throws more fun. The airplane doesn’t need a bit for elevator. That was my fault as I had them set. They were just lot of runway to take off and it is just though because I maxed out the about exactly as recommended in the 66

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The World Models™ TAMEcat 40 ARF

instruction manual.

Someday I will learn to stick with what the experts decide is the proper setup.

Other control settings were perfect as I had them set. The roll rate is pretty good—although it is tame enough to keep pilots not well experienced in aileron-controlled models out of trouble. The rudders are also effective, which they ought to be since there are two. The model didn’t quite hold a knife-edge when I tried it, though it was never intended to do so, but it was still pretty darn close to doing so. Inverted flight is simple to fly, requiring just a bit of down elevator control to hold level flight. This is pretty amazing since the wing is definitely not built

Right out of the box, these components make up all the parts that will must be glued together. This model builds quickly!

The motor has a standoff to locate the propeller adapter forward of the cowl, though a few washers are needed to get it to the recommended spot.

The deck is going to require some trim work to sit flush against the wing. I marked the trim spots with a marker, and the completed deck fits perfectly.

There is lots of room for servos and the receiver. The rudders use two pushrods, plus there is one for the nose wheel steering.

This might be an ideal platform for FPV (first person view) gear because of the room in the fuselage for gear, and the nice lifting capabilities of the model.

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for inverted flight because it is a flatbottom, high-lift design.

Now, let’s talk stalls. With the model having plenty of altitude, I gently pulled the power off. The TameCat slows down nicely when I pulled a bit of elevator control to maintain altitude.

The airplane then slowed more and more until eventually it drops its nose about 30 degrees. That’s it, really! I did it over and over again, up wind, cross wind and down wind.

The model did not exhibit any severe control tendencies whatsoever. It just noses down gently, and then starts flying again.

The model’s wheels are lightweight foam. The wheel collars make it easy for you put them on in just a few minutes.

The servos for the ailerons simply drop in. The elevator linkage exits the tail of the model and clips onto the horn. Pretty easy and straightforward.

The ESC gets installed where the nitro power systems fuel tank would otherwise reside. A hole in the firewall provides a route for the wires.

I drilled a hole in the nose wheel bulkhead for the ESC’s battery leads. The battery fits on a 1/16-in. plywood tray that is screwed in place.

The TameCat sits ready for takeoff. My airfield was a grassy soccer field, which makes for a great place to fly when there are no players using it.

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The World Models™ TAMEcat 40 ARF Inverted flight is possible with this model. It requires a bit of down elevator, but otherwise it flies upside down very easily.

I drilled a hole in the nose wheel bulkhead for the ESC’s battery leads. The battery fits on a 1/16-in. plywood tray that is screwed in place.

Looking like its big brother, the F-14 Tomcat, the straight wing on this model makes it a gentle giant rather than a scrappy fighter.

The TameCat power system is a perfect match for this airplane. It gets the model off the ground quickly and delivers a nice flight speed of roughly 40 mph in level flight. It is not a one-to-one power ratio system, but it still provides a fast climb for the TameCat. Cruise speed is at about 75 percent throttle. Typical flights are in the seven- to ten-minute range, when the model is fitted with a 3000-mAh, 4-cell LiPo pack.

What I found is that this airplane flies well slow or fast. It does so without any weird or bad control responses across its flight regime. I even tried flying it through a few tight turns by rolling it about 60 degrees from horizontal and pulling back hard on the elevator. The airplane turned tightly, but it never stalled.

Landings are automatic. That means lining it up with the runway and then just pulling the power. I Follow us on twitter @rcsportflyer

That bomb on the fuselage is just aching to come off.

A future sidebar is going to cover a simple drop mechanism that will make this plastic bomb releasable.

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Landings really are this easy.

The airplane glides extremely well and settles in without the need for any throttle at all, just like a trainer should.

flew it in for several landings without power and they were very smooth and slow. Note that the TameCat loves to fly, so a steep approach means you will never get it on the ground. Rather, set up for a normal type approach, and then manage the power to affect a picture-perfect landing again and again.

Conclusion

What a blast this model is to fly. That is a summary of flying the TameCat. It is a real trainer that just flies well. It is docile enough to be a trainer, but sporty enough to be much more—the TameCat is simply a lot of fun to fly. The model is lightweight, smooth and easy to handle from takeoff to touchdown.

It is a perfect match for beginners, or for expert fliers who want an airplane that lets them relax while flying. I highly recommend the TameCat with the setup as recommended in the manual, which 70

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is the same as used in this review project.

My final grade on flying the TameCat is an A plus.

The electric power system provides plenty of thrust to give the TameCat good climb performance and maneuverability as well as pretty good flight duration.

The World Models™ TAMEcat 40 ARF

Specifications

You’ll find that your TameCat will land very easily.

You just pull back the power and fly it onto the runway. It lands like a trainer!

Recommended Control Throws Elevator

+/- 0.6 in.

Ailerons

+/- 0.5 in.

Rudder

+/- 0.5 in.

Center of Gravity 4.0 in. from wing root at fuselage

Suppliers Tower Hobbies PO Box 9078 Champaign, IL 61826-9078 Phone: 800-637-6050 Email: orders@towerhobbies.com towerhobbies.com Castle Creations 540 N Rogers Road Olathe, KS 66062 Phone: 913-390-6939 Castlecreations.com

Assembly Your TameCat will come wrapped in plastic and taped in place in its box as a way to reduce the risk of damage during shipping.

The TameCat is comprised of several large pieces that let you assemble them quickly. There are a few parts that require gluing with adhesive such as five-minute epoxy. The wings must be joined, the horizontal and vertical stabilizers also require epoxy to glue them together, and that’s about it. Everything else is fastened together with screws.

The rudders, elevator and ailerons come factory hinged and glued in place. It is, however, prudent to give them all a slight tug to ensure they are secured in place properly before moving along with the build.

There is a wooden wing joiner rather than a removable spar.

It is strong enough to keep the airplane’s wings from folding during high-G maneuvers. This is typical of many .40-size models, especially those from the past where the now common carbon fiber wing tube was not used.

Installation of the servos is straightforward. You simply locate the plywood cutouts that are under the wing’s covering for the ailerons’ servos. Then they just screw in place. It is even easier for the servos for the rudder and elevator, which just drop into a plywood servo tray that is built into the wide fuselage. The rudder servo uses two, pre-bent, metal pushrod arms to steer the twin rudders. The rudder servo also steers the nose wheel, so when setting it, ensure there is enough room to attach the steering linkage.

The build of the TameCat has no “gotchas,” meaning there are no tricky parts to the build that must be performed in any particular order. There are a few things that must be tweaked for the electric power system. The nitro engine setup in the manual Follow us on twitter @rcsportflyer

Wingspan

69 in.

Fuselage length

50 in.

Wing area

831 in.2

Weight

5.5 lb

Motor

WorldModels KM0374810 outrunner

ESC

Castle Creations Phoenix 80

Propeller

11x8E

Battery

4-cell LiPo 3000-mAh

Transmitter

Futaba® 12 FGH 2.4 GHz

Receiver

Futaba® 2.4 GHz 7-channel R617FS

Servos

Futaba® S3004 Standard Torque Servos (4)

Retail price

$179.99

Distributor AirBorne Models 2403 Research Drive Livermore, CA 94550 Phone: 925-371-0922 airborne-models.com theworldmodels.com

shows an offset from the firewall of 4.25 in. to the propeller’s hub location. However, the electric motor standoff needs a bit more length to be set to the 4.25-in. distance. The fix was to stack a few washers between the motor mount and the firewall to get the hub set properly.

The fuselage’s hatch required a bit of trimming to sit flush against the wing. The material is molded plastic and thin enough to trim using a sharp X-Acto® blade or a Dremel® type tool.

Since the TameCat was originally designed for nitro power, a spot must be fabricated for a motor battery. Because batteries are the heaviest of the electric components, the location was determined at the end of the build. When I determined the best spot for the battery, taking the model’s balance into consideration, I devised a little ramp (for lack of a better term) for the battery to sit on. I fastened it in place with small screws so it can be removed if I need to get to anything in that area for maintenance. Lastly, I glued some Velcro® in position that is used to secure the battery in position.

There is a bulkhead that must have an opening cut in it to allow the electronic speed controller’s wires to be routed from it to the battery. To do this, I drilled a small hole and then used progressively larger bits to open the hole until it was large enough for the wires. The hole was touched up with a sharp X-Acto® blade.

Once the build was complete, I checked the airplane’s balance point. The manual has it set for best flight, which as a general rule is about one third of the way back from the leading edge of a straight wing. You will notice that this is also where the wing spar is normally located on most models.

My final grade on the build is an A plus.

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BY Gene Cope

Jeti DS-16 ®

State-of-the-Art Tx with Functions and Features Plus

A

few months ago I saw the Jeti DC-16 transmitter when I was at the RC airfield with friends. The transmitter’s owner gave me a quick overview of the radio’s features and functions. I was impressed by what it offered.

So I started researching, on the Esprit Model website, what it provides in terms of control and telemetry.

What I learned is that the new Jeti DS-16 transmitter has been designed with more functions and features than just about any other RC transmitter to date. These expand the pilot’s aircraft control beyond anything you might imagine. As a result, I decided to purchase the Jeti DS-16 a couple of weeks ago. In this review, I’ll share some of the reasons that I opted to buy this transmitter over others.

One of the primary reasons I bought my DS-16 over another brand was that it offers built-in, voice-type alarms for its variometer, airspeed and GPS functions. Also, I like the idea of the transmitter having a built-in, three-axis accelerometer, which I can use for such things as tow release or pilot controls—make the pilot’s head turn and look at you.

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The three-axis system means I need not let go of any control sticks to activate a control function. It is pretty darn cool! Also, the DS-16 has almost unlimited flight-mode configurations, which is important to any pilot who uses special configurations such as landing, 3D, thermal, etc.

What You Get

My DS-16 came in a cardboard shipping box. Inside that box was the DS-16’s box. Inside it was the DS-16’s

The new Jeti DS-16 weighs 44 oz and comes with a huge, user-friendly 320x240 pixel LCD screen that is easy to read, even in bright light conditions.

Jeti® DS-16 case, which is a rugged and durable aluminum carry-case that is adorned with the Jeti logo. Inside the case, there is the transmitter, a 110-volt wall charger, USB cables, neck strap, instruction manual, tool pouch, the case keys and a very nicely made transmitter mat that you can place the transmitter on. Note that your DS-16 comes from Esprit wrapped in plastic as a way to protect it against damage while being shipped.

When you buy the DS-16 you need to buy the receivers, flight battery packs and your choice of telemetry sensors. I found that the Esprit website was very easy to navigate. Also, as I mentioned above, you can get lots of information about the Jeti transmitters from the site, as well as how-to videos.

Like the DC-16, (the transmitter reviewed in the November 2012 issues of RC-SF) the DS-16 also uses metal, quad-ball-raced control sticks.

The sticks use Hall sensors, which provide maximum control sensitivity.

The 320 by 240 pixel LCD graphic display is built into the top of the transmitter as a slanted protrusion.

It is extremely easy to read, even in bright, sunlit conditions.

The instruction manual is well written. Its step-by-step instructions and illustrations are easy to follow

Jeti includes this deluxe transmitter pad that you can use to hold your transmitter up during programming or to just keep it from getting scratched and dirty.

Inside the factory’s box you will get a superbly built aluminum carry case, that is custom built for the DS-16. In it is the charger, USB cord, neck strap and transmitter. It is a complete transmitter package from start to finish.

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Your DS-16’s box will come shipped inside a foampacked cardboard box, so you need not worry about it being damaged during shipment.

and implement when programming the radio. Believe me when I tell you that programming the DS-16 is so intuitive that you almost need not use the manual. The manual does, however, provide the information you’ll need and want for some of the complex programming and special setups that this radio offers the advanced user. I’d advise you to take the time to at least peruse the manual for the basics. Then take a couple of hours to explore the highend features and functions that this Tx offers. Esprit’s website has lots of information too.

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The Basics

After you have charged the transmitter’s battery pack, you’ll turn on the radio by pressing the On/Off power switch centered below the LCD screen. The screen will read, “Start transmitter? YES or NO”. You will simply press the F5 button that is positioned just below the LCD screen to answer YES—there are five

function buttons there: F1–F5. Then the transmitter will quickly boot up and be ready for programming or use.

In this review, I will cover only the basic setup screens because it is impossible to describe all the programming and control power of this transmitter in one review. So, I’ll start by explaining how you get started using the DS-16.

You’ll enter the programming

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RC SPORT FLYER — september 2013

and information screens by pressing the MENU button, which is located on the lower right corner of the transmitter, just to the right and above the 3D control selector wheel. The Main menu screen is then displayed. The screen displays the following functions: Model, Fine Tuning, Advanced Properties, Timers/ Sensors, Applications and System. You will select a function by scrolling to it with the 3D control selector and then pressing the selector button.

The next screen will display Select Model, New Model, Basic Properties, Function Assignment, Servo Assignment, Servo Setup and Device Explorer. You will initially want to select the New Model, again using the 3D control selector.

This will then lead you to selecting the Model type screen. At this screen you can select between Acro, Heli and General model types.

You will also be able to name your model there. Note that when you name the model a very easy-to-use keyboard will appear in the screen.

You can toggle between letters with the 3D control selector. You can

1

Here you see the Menu button, the 3D control selector, and the ESC (escape) key you’ll use for navigating menus and making selections.

2

The transmitter’s speaker is pointed right at the pilot, and the control trim buttons are well placed just below the left control stick.

3

At the right, top of the Tx there are four toggle switches: one spring-loaded and three 2-position that you can configure as you want for ANY function.

4

At the left top, the Tx has three 2-position toggle switches on 3-position. Again, you can program these switches to provide any function you desire.

JetiÂŽ DS-16

5

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5

This gives you a look at the long, spring-loaded toggle switch, the short, 2-position switch, the USB port and the headphone jack.

6

On the top left is a long, 2-position toggle switch and a 3-position. Also you can see the charging port and how the handle fastens to the aluminum case.

7

On the left side of the radio, recessed into the case, is a slider channel. It is extremely easy to find just by feel, which means no searching for a control.

8

The right side of the transmitter has a control slider as well. Again, it is easy to find by feel and its action is ultra smooth throughout its travel.

The quality of the engineering and fabrication are evident when you remove the back of this transmitter. The PCB boards, gimbals, battery pack, wire runs, etc. are just first class all the way through this Tx.

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how you go from startto finishwiththe basic setup of the DS-16Tx system

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RC SPORT FLYER — september 2013

JetiÂŽ DS-16 15

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Jeti® DS-16 also select upper case and lower case letters by way of the F3 key. It is super easy to do, and you can use numbers and special characters as well. When you’ve selected the type and named your model you will use the Next button (F5) to advance to the Basic Properties menu.

The Basic Properties screen is where you will select the Wing type as well as tail type. There are many wing types that you can pick: ailerons, ailerons and flaps, dual ailerons, etc.

There is a graphic that makes it super easy to pick your model’s wing and tail type.

Once you’ve selected the wing type you will simply press the Next button (F5) and the program will jump to the Functions Assignment screen. This is where the control functions are selected or added with respect to their control stick or switch. Again, it is very intuitive and you can select about any control function your model will have or that you want. You can also name a function at this screen.

Press the Next button at this screen to advance the menu to Servo Assignment. This is the screen where the you will select the receiver’s control channel. For example if you want the right ailerons to be on the receiver’s channel one and the left ailerons to be on channel two, this is where you would pick them.

After you have selected the receiver’s output channels, you will again press the Next button. That will give you the option: Create an active model? You have the option of No (F1) or Yes (F5). When you select Yes the Servo Setup menu screen is displayed. At this point in the programming sequence you can bind the transmitter to a receiver if you wish. You will also use this menu to set servo sub trims, travel volumes, travel limits, to reverse the control and to set response delays.

At this point in the programming sequence, I’ve guided you through the basics of what this radio transmitter’s capabilities are with respect to configuring the transmitter and receiver for a model. This just begins to scratch the surface however.

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RC SPORT FLYER — september 2013

configuration screen to set some system perimeters such as inches or millimeters, etc. Then you would move on to the Fine Tuning menu or to the Advanced properties menu.

These menus will let you tweak the flight controls, set flight modes, use a Jeti Box, activate voice or even play some of the built-in games.

I’m going to do a couple other how-to pieces on this radio system for future issues of this magazine because there is just so much programming power built into it. You should also know that the DS-16 is like many of the other top, RCbrand transmitters in that you can upgrade its firmware easily by way of a USB cable and a connection to the Internet. You’ll simply download the firmware to your PC and then upload it to the DS-16, which, by the way, will appear as a drive on your PC when you’ve connected it to an open USB port.

When you consider the quality of this system, its features and function, and the user interface and ergonomics of the new DS-16, its price tag of $1495.00 is what I would consider quite reasonable. It is likely

Specifications

going to take me more than few days to understand what each function and feature can do for setting up my models, especially since it seems the functions are almost limitless. What that tells me and you, is that the DS16 may be the last RC transmitter system we may ever need. Suffice it to say, I think this RC transmitter system is definitely a purchase I’m happy to have made.

Features Duplex 2.4-GHz

Duplex 2.4-GHz, frequency hopping, digital, data-stream system originally developed by Jeti Model in the Czech Republic.

Built-in telemetry

Includes the full integration of all Duplex telemetry sensors.

Transmitters

Emphasize use comfort, state-of-the art appearance and use premium quality materials.

Precise metal gimbals

Equipped with Hall sensors and ball bearings for precision movement with an almost unlimited lifespan.

LCD display

Oversized 3.8-in. backlit LCD display with 320 x 240 pixel resolution— highly visible in any light condition.

Li-Ion battery

High capacity, 3200-mAh w/ long service life.

Charging

Wall power supply. DC/DS-16 may be charged through its USB to PC interface. On-screen charge status.

Integrated antenna

Antennas are enclosed in integrated covers in both the DC-16 and DS-16 cases for protection against mechanical damage.

Memory

4 GB memory for storing models, sounds and telemetry data.

USB

Convenient connection to your PC. Fast firmware and sound upgrades, telemetry data downloads.

Frequency

2.4 GHz

Dimensions

7.7 x 9.2 x 1.6 in. (w/ display)

Weight

44 oz

Channels

16

Controls

28 (w/ sticks, switches, knobs)

Resolution

4096 steps

Battery

Li-on 3200-mAh 3.6-volt

Operating time

≈11 hours

Internal memory

4 GB micro SD

Telemetry

Yes

Menu navigation

Fast 3D wheel-style interface combined with function keys.

PC connection

mini USB

Digital trims

Graphic display

320 x 240 pixels

Operational temperature

14 – 140° F

Fully programmable trims and a revolutionary automatic trimming function.

Price

$1495

Swappable/ assignable

All switches can be moved and assigned to create a custom configuration that works best for your application.

Programming

Logical and intuitive transmitter firmware is designed to be simple and understandable to use.

Sounds/ alarms

Equipped with audible alarms with user-recordable alarms.

Distributor Esprit Model 1240 Clearmont St NE, Unit 12 Palm Bay, FL 32905 Phone: 321-729-4287 Espritmodel.com

Phoenix Edge series ESCs are intended for use in helicopters ranging from 450 to 800 size, and up to 1.20 size fixed wing aircraft.

The all new Vertigo line of heli motors is available for sizes 450, 500, 550, 600 and 700 class helis and offer superior quality and performance.

BY Dan Deckert

TheWings Maker 50cc PaulistinHa

A Brazilian-Bred Cub

I assembled all the parts I needed to get started but still had to buy some odds and ends I forgot about.

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RC SPORT FLYER — september 2013

Those little orange and red dots are your opening locators for the fuselage and tail section.

The Wings Maker 50cc PaulistinHa

I

’m just stupid for Cubs, even if they’re not technically Cubs in name.

The Paulistinha was developed and built in Brazil during the ‘30s and ‘40s. It was mostly used as a civilian and military trainer, and was an unlicensed knockoff of the venerable Taylor J2 Cub (not to be confused with the Taylorcraft or Piper Cubs).

The Taylor brand name eventually became Piper Aircraft in 1937. The Paulistinha possesses most of the characteristics and looks of the Cub. However, the Paulistinha does not have flaps, like the J3. It does have an enclosed cowl like the Super Cub though, so it just has the Cub-like look no matter how you look at it.

What You Get

In your kit you will get an extremely well-packaged airframe.

It comes from the factory covered in Toughlon® and Lightex® in cream,

black and red for colors. All parts are individually wrapped in sealed plastic bags that are taped into the box.

I was literally taken aback after opening the box and realizing just how big the Paulistinha is in wingspan.

Pre-sale images do not do justice to what you’ll see before your eyes. Each parts bag is numbered, which makes for an easy reference when working from the manual.

The model’s scale landing gear with inflatable tires and airfoils is a huge bonus.

Included in the Kit

• Airframe: fuselage and wings (covered) • Landing gear • Inflatable tires, with filler needle • Tailwheel assembly • Hardware package • Two aluminum wing tubes • Wing and jury struts • Interior/exterior decal set

• Scale pilot bust with mounting plate and tape • 800-cc fuel tank with clunk • Clear plastic cowl template

Needed to Complete

• DLA-56, gas-powered engine, with ignition module • Valley View 22×8 wood propeller • Hitec HS-7985MG (5) • Hitec HS-485HB (1) throttle • 36-in., heavy-duty extensions (5) • A123, 6.6-volt, 2300-mAh LiFe Rx battery • 4.8-volt, 2500-mAh NiMH (ignition) • Opto Gas engine kill switch • Miracle Dual-Switch with charge ports • Transmitter • Receiver • Fuel tubing • Fuel dot • Adhesives • Tools

Departing the airfield, my Paulistinha has the look of a full-scale airplane taking off for a training mission in Brazil. It is just an excellent-looking model airplane.

The fuselage interior is nicely made and well built, right down to the glue joints.

These nicely molded servo trays for the ailerons are a very nice touch. No building required is a bonus.

The supplied hinges and pre-cut slots are a huge time saver when it comes to building the elevators, rudder and wings.

The main gear has some beautiful, airfoil-shaped, imitation bungee covers that add some extra pop to the scale looks of the plane.

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In the Air

To start the Paulistinha’s maiden flight, I dialed the model’s control throws way down, added 20 percent exponential to the transmitter’s program and set the dual rates to their on position.

Then after One of the nicest packing jobs for parts I’ve come Inflatable tires with hubcaps and a super-nice tail wheel checking the radio across as each bag is numbered and referenced in the means you won’t need to shop for replacement parts. system’s range, manual. fueling the airplane and doing some yaw control. It did not need any trim percent throttle applied the model taxiing tests, the adjustments, with the exception of was flying and in the air in about 20 model was readied for takeoff. two clicks of right aileron. feet. Pushing the throttle up a bit For takeoff, I applied throttle Powered as it is, the Paulistinha more had my Paulistinha climbing gradually, keeping the model tracking flies like a Cub on steroids. The aggressively. Note that the DLA-56 straight down the runway by adding power for me is pretty unbelievable. engine gives it enough power to only about 10 percent right rudder Although there were 10-plus-mph climb straight up. control, which I eased off on as the winds for the model’s maiden, that Once I had it at altitude, I checked airplane accelerated and gained didn’t prove to be a problem. Slow the airplane’s trims in roll, pitch and airspeed. Even with only about 50

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The Wings Maker 50cc PaulistinHa flybys and landings are impressive.

When I stalled the model, power on it dropped its left wing a bit, but it did not fall into a spin. Power-off stalls were about the same; however, the model barely dropped a wing and it recovered from the stall quickly once airspeed was rebuilt. Looping the model is as easy as pulling back on the elevator control and maintaining power up the front side of the loop, with power pull-off on the back side. The loops are as round as you want to make them. When I spun the model, the spin did not turn into a spiral dive, but the spin did not

The supplied hardware comes with ball bearings to reduce binding in the control rods.

I made my own guide for the choke rod from an old spray can of brake cleaner and a piece of brass tube.

The electronics fit perfectly in the bottom servo tray and keep everything out of sight when the pilot tray is installed in the cockpit.

The DLA-56, gas-powered engine fits the fiberglass cowl perfectly. I used the vacuum-formed plastic cowl template to mark the fiberglass cowl for cutting.

This shows you another angle of how the fiberglass cowl gets cut to fit the DLA-56 engine. It makes for a very clean engine installation in the model.

You’ll discover that you can just pull the power back and fly the Paulistinha in for a landing, much like you would a Piper Cub or Taylorcraft.

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That bomb on the fuselage is just aching to come off.

A future sidebar is going to cover a simple drop mechanism that will make this plastic bomb releasable.

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Build Report The first thing you’ll notice with the parts for this kit are the little orange/red dots that are placed on the fuselage and tail section. These are locators for all the servo and wiring penetrations. Next, as a caution, the tan covering will accept a lot of heat when you need to tighten the covering. However, the red covering will boil with too much heat. So, be careful as you are shrinking or tightening any areas of the model’s covering that may have wrinkles to be removed from the covering.

I started my build by dry fitting pieces together just to get an idea of what I needed to do, as well as what, if any, changes I’d be making. On the aesthetic side of things, I decided to hide the model’s on/off and ignition switches and fuel dot inside the cockpit to keep a clean, scale, outer appearance. There’s plenty of room in the cockpit for the switches, charging the battery packs and for the fuel dot. The factory-installed, throttle servo plate has openings that allow for a clean install under the pilot support tray for the switches and fuel dot. Also, the manual shows a lock mechanism for the cockpit door, but I changed it out for magnets and Velcro® instead.

I started my build by securing the factory’s pre-drilled hinges in place with 20-minute epoxy. Be sure to use some Vaseline® on the hinges’ joints to prevent epoxy from getting into them. Note that before you install the hinges you should clip “D” portion of them on both sides as a way to widen the gap between the hinge. This will prevent epoxy from getting into the hinge.

The tail sections comes from the factory as a separate part of the fuselage. You must glue the tail section to the fuselage. It is easy and just takes a few minutes and a bit of glue to do.

Before the vertical stabilizer was mounted, I installed the Control throws

Center of Gravity

servos, control horns, extensions and pushrods in the tail section. You’ll need to be sure and center the servos before fastening them in position. I did so with my EDR-203 ServoCiser.

You need to know that the pushrod arms that come with the kits do not fit the HS-7985 arms. Consequently, I installed Dubro# 811 4-40 HD ball links on the servo ends and the kit’s hardware at the control surfaces. This worked perfectly. Then I installed the vertical stabilizer and preset it.

Then the tail wheel and flying wires were installed. The clips that attach to the tail feathers and the wires have a small hole for the factory-supplied threaded bolts. You will need pliers to put the screws through the two parts. I do not recommend the use of a screwdriver.

Next you’ll install the wing’s servos. The servo mounts are nicely molded plastic parts that require no glue or epoxy, but you will need to pre-drill them to mount the servos. The servos are rock solid after mounting in these plates. As a safety precaution, I use shrink tube on every servo extension connector and test them before I install any servos.

I set the tail section aside and started on the cabin area. I used Velcro at the trailing end to hold the pilot plate in place.

For the bottom plate, I epoxied some triangular pieces under the plate onto the fuselage framing and used servo screws to hold it in place and so it’s removable. I installed my throttle servo, switches and fuel dot onto the bottom plate so they’re removable as well. For the door, I bent some wire in a U shape to act as a handle and epoxied two magnets at the front of the door to hold it closed.

With the cabin sort of finished, I grabbed the mounting

really flatten out either. It just did a nice, controlled spin, which you can Travel Expo 124 mm (4.9 in.) back of leading edge at use to burn altitude if needed. wing root Aileron +/- 35 mm (1.38 in.)

20% Now, let me talk about rolling this NOTE: If you are converting this model to airplane. The manual recommends Elevator +/- 145 mm (1.77 in.)

20% electric, move the CG forward 10% of current that you have equal amounts of up Rudder +/- 160 mm (2.36 in.) 20% CG distance from leading edge to compensate and down on the ailerons’ control throw. Don’t do it if you want this for the weight of fuel. airplane to roll and turn well. I recommend you use at least a 3-to1 differential mix or control on the ailerons. It will let the airplane fly very nicely coordinated turns, and it will let it roll without adverse yaw.

You will like the way this airplane flies. It is very fun to The servos for the elevators and rudder are easy to In this photo you see how the servos get installed in the fly doing touch-andinstall in the aft end of the fuselage. It is a wellwings for aileron control. Again, it is a clean and wellengineered design that provides positive control. engineered design that makes for excellent control. go landings, etc.

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RC SPORT FLYER — september 2013

The Wings Maker 50cc PaulistinHa

dimensions for the DLA from the Hobby King website and made a template to mount the engine. I say “sort of finished” because there’s a ton of trial fitting that needs to happen here with the engine and the electronics. I spent +/- 8 hours finagling around with everything to make sure everything would fit and still be removable in case repairs were needed. The interior of the cabin was pulled out so I could mount the motor standoffs. With the engine in place, I re-installed its ignition module and cut an opening in the firewall to feed the plug wire through. My setup left very little slack as a way to lock onto the spark plug. Next, I marked and drilled a hole for the throttle servo rod, installed a ball link on the motor’s end and a quik-connector on the servo end. I re-installed the interior, installed the receiver, set up the control throws for the throttle and tested the ignition’s kill. With the front-end electronics working, I epoxied the tail section onto the fuselage. After it had dried, I hooked up and tested everything that was installed.

I moved on to install the landing gear but ran into a problem of my own doing. I pre-drilled the holes, CA’d them and re-drilled them to clean them out. This made the holes so tight going into hardwood that the screw heads snapped off. Although the factory straps will work, I replaced them with Dubro # 811 gear straps for a better fit. The lesson learned is to not CA these holes.

With the gear installed, I started on mounting the cowl. The supplied cowl cutout mold is invaluable here. I won’t detail my effort except to tell you to take your time doing this and make small cuts and test fit until you have it right. Expect to spend a lot of time if you want a clean, nice-looking fit.

With the cowl on, I looked for a way to install a wire for

Like It

I took more time than you would normally need to build my Paulistinha because I was doing so for this review. However, I rather enjoyed

the build (see my build report) and certainly its in-flight capabilities. The extra time I spent building the model will make it easier to do maintenance on, and it made for a super-clean

You will discover that when you apply the throttle the model’s tail will start to fly almost from the minute the airplane start rolling.

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operating the choke. I used a homemade setup that holds the choke wire in place and gives you access to it through the cowl opening. It’s not pretty but is effective and hidden.

At this point, I worked on installing the side windows, and installing the strut bolts into the wings and struts. I didn’t install the windshield and suggest you hold off too because you may want access to the cabin area. Attaching the windshield was my last step. I used double-sided Scotch tape with a single screw on each side for safety. I also put a small piece of Velcro on the door-side window and under the wing that can hold it open.

Next I cut the covering holes out for the wing tubes and servo wires on the fuselage and worked on installing the wings.

The wing tubes have two different-sized slots cut in them for the self-tightening latching pins. You will need to install the springs onto the latching pins. See #21 in the manual. Because it is NOT mentioned in the manual you need to understand the latching pins will fit only one way into the wing tubes. The beveled side faces away from the fuselage, with the short slot in the wing tube being the end of the pin. The easiest way to latch the springs into the wings is with needle-nose pliers. Although this design is different than using traditional wing bolts, it works quite well.

With the wings on, I then mounted my wing and jury struts.

All that was left was to re-install the interior plates and set the model’s CG. I installed its battery packs right behind the firewall on the bottom of the fuselage, which just barely gave it the proper CG. Thankfully, the over-heavy LiFe receiver pack was an aide. After adjusting the CG, all that was left was to check the control throws, add some fuel and go flying. hardware installation. The airplane is a real beauty in the air, especially on slow fly-bys. Its scale-like landing gear makes it really stand out on landing approaches too. The Hobby

With the exception of the exhaust pipe, you would think for all the world that this is the full-scale airplane coming in for a landing.

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The Wings Maker 50cc PaulistinHa King DLA-56, gaspowered engine performed flawlessly and provides much more power than is needed for this model, so it climbs like a homesick angel, even on partial throttle.

Especially fun for me was that I could just imagine myself The wing’s struts get attached to the fuselage by way of sitting in the fulla bolt and lock nut. You’ll find that it will only take a scale Paulistinha’s few minutes to assemble this model. cockpit and looking down on the people Suppliers below as I flew overhead. So, if I HobbyKing could not pilot the full-scale airplane, hobbyking.com flying my World Models’ Paulistinha is Valley View RC nearly as good, maybe even better.

Phone: 253-875-6890 What I think you’ll discover valleyviewrc.com if you buy one, is that this is Electro Dynamics an excellent flying and handling Phone: 800-337-1638 airplane. It performs quite well and electrodynam.com does not have any nasty handling Dubro characteristics that might surprise a Phone: 800-848-9411 dubro.com pilot. What I would say in conclusion is, if you are a Cub-type airplane enthusiast like me, you’ll like it! So buy one. You will not be disappointed in its performance.

World Models provides a pilot for the cockpit. The landing gear struts are well built and include the scale bungee fairings that you would see on a full-scale.

Specifications Type

Scale

Pilot skill

Intermediate / advanced

Wingspan

118 in. (3000 mm)

Length

75 in. (1900 mm)

Wing area

1990 in.² (128 dm²)

Airfoil

Semi-symmetrical USA-35B

Weight

18.5 lb (8450 g)

Controls

Aileron, elevator, rudder and throttle

Construction

Balsa and plywood

Covering

Toughlon and Lightex

Radio channels

4 required

Engine

50-cc / 56-cc gas

Propeller

22×8 or 22×10

Flight times

10~12 minutes

Transmitter

Spektrum DX7

Receiver

Spektrum AR7000

Switches

Miracle dual-switch

Fuel dot

JEModel fuel filler

Batteries

A123 2300-mAh 6.6-volt 2S1P 4.8-volt 2500-mAh NiMH

Servos

Hitec HS-7985MG Digital (5) Hitec HS-485HB Deluxe (1)

Manual

Photo illustrated with text

Price

$549.99 #GA065

Distributor AirBorne Models 4749-K Bennett Dr Livermore, CA 94551 Phone: 925-371-0922 airborne-models.com You can have lots of fun cross controlling your model and doing one-wheel landings such as you see here. This is just a fun-tofly airplane all around.

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AeroWorks

aero-works.net

Airborne Models

9

Micro Fasteners

microfasteners.com

44

airborne-models.com

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Monster Planes

franktiano.com

51

APC Propellers

apcprops.com

10

OLE RC

olerc.com

31

Bob Smith Industries

bsi-inc.com

8

Parkzone

horizonhobby.com

33

Bold Propellers

franktiano.com

30

PowerBox

powerbox-systems.com

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Castle Creations

castlecreations.com

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RTL Fasteners

rtlfasteners.com

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Central Hobbies

centralhobbies.com

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Safe

horizonhobby.com

Cubs N’ Cousins

rc-cubsncousins.com

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SIME

shmodelexpo.com.cn

32

Desert Aircraft

desertaircraft.com

39

Smart-Fly

smart-fly.com

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eagletreesystems.com

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Soaring USA

soaringusa.com

12

E-flite

horizonhobby.com

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Spektrum

horizonhobby.com

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Esprit Model

espritmodel.com

ThunderPower

thunderpowerrc.com

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Hitec RCD

hitecrcd.com

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tru-turn.com

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5

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TheMystery AIRPLANE

WIN

A FREE SPORT FLYER HAT

Give us the name of the airplane to win!

Submission information Please e-mail your response to support@rc-sf.com or mail a letter to Kiona Publishing ATTN: RC-SF 18-09 Contest P.O. Box 4250 W Richland, WA 99353

Answer

Last month’s Mystery airplane was the mid ‘40s Martin XB-48.

I hope you will be a winner this month.

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Start your weekend off right with the sporty Extra 300S! The first in our new “Weekender by Hitec” line, this sleek aerobat will get you up in the air in an instant! The durable EPO airframe comes pre-assembled and ready for action with an eye-catching color scheme. The servos, speed control and high performance brushless motor are all preinstalled.

With its full-house, four-channel control, this aerobatic beauty delivers unlimited entertainment so you can captivate your friends and family all weekend long!

Specifications: Wingspan: 47.2 in Weight: 3.1 lb Length: 42.5 in

Features: Motor: WB3720 600Kv Brushless Outrunner ESC: 50-amp WE50A Prop: 12x8 3-Blade RC Functions: 4 Channels Ailerons, Elevator, Throttle & Rudder

Your Weekend. Your Choice. Your Hitec.

Hitec RCD USA Inc. / 12115 Paine Street • Poway, CA 92064 / (858) 748-6948 / www.hitecrcd.com

The AS3X Upgrade for Sport Planes is Here

The NEW Spektrum™ AR635 6-Channel AS3X® Sport Receiver

Channels: 6 Modulation: DSM2®/DSMX®

The marvelous balance of agility and stability that AS3X (Artificial Stabilization – 3-aXis) technology brings to ultra micro aircraft is now available for park flyers and sport planes with the new Spektrum AR635 receiver.

Band: 2.4GHz Dimensions: 2.2 x 0.8 x 0.5 in (56 x 21 x 14mm) Weight: 0.5 oz (13.2 g)

• Full-range DSMX® receiver and AS3X System in a single unit • Developed in cooperation with champion RC pilot, Quique Somenzini • No special interface or transmitter programming required • Different AS3X System settings for sport and 3D models • Dual, adjustable gain settings for aileron, elevator and rudder

Voltage: 3.5–8.5V Resolution: 2048

This the best thing to happen for sport pilots since Bind-N-Fly® aircraft. Go to spektrumrc.com right now to learn more and to find the Spektrum retailer near you.

VISIT

Your Local Retailer

CLICK

horizonhobbytrains.com

CALL

1.800.338.4639

SERIOUS FUN®

©2013 Horizon Hobby, Inc. DSM2, DSMX, AS3X, Bind-N-Fly and the Horizon Hobby logo are registered trademarks of Horizon Hobby, Inc. The Spektrum trademark is used with permission of Horizon Hobby, Inc. 39253

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