RC Sport Flyer Nov 2013 (Vol 18-11) by RC Flyer News

P80 1/4-SCALE SUPER CUB GETS E-POWER

THE RC AIRCRAFT PILOTS AND BUILDERS MAGAZINE

Exclusive Event Report Cubs n’ Cousins 2013

Airborne Models’ 1/3-scale Clipped Wing Cub hovers on power from a DA-100 engine

PUTS YOU

IN THE ACTION TESTED O.S. GF40 4-Stroke Gas Engine NEW JR XG14 Transmitter Moswey Glider

USA & CANADA $6.49

A 26-CC POWERED TAYLORCRAFT

That is Bind-N-Fly Fun!

RC-SF.COM NOVEMBER 2013

THE GOPRO ® COMPATIBLE

The experts in Blade® heli design and innovation are taking aerial video to new heights with the 350 QX. The 350 QX is a highly capable quadcopter with the ability to capture video and still images when you attach your GoPro® camera to the included compatible mount*. A series of intuitive new SAFE™ technology features and dynamic flight modes give this quadcopter appeal among both beginner pilots and advanced aerobatic pilots alike. Available in both Ready-to-Fly and Bind-N-Fly® versions.

ENGINEERED WITH

Smart Mode - GPS/Altitude Hold, SAFE Circle™ feature and Stick Relativity

Stability Mode - Limited flight envelope, self-leveling and optional GPS Hold

Agility Mode - Full flight envelope for aerobatic maneuvers

SAFE Circle feature prevents the Blade® 350 QX from flying too close to the pilot (Smart Mode only)

Return Home/Fail-Safe - Automatically returns to home position

GoPro® compatible anti-vibration camera mount* included

facebook.com/bladehelis

*Designed for use with GoPro® products. GoPro® is a registered trademark of Woodman Labs, Inc. in the United States and other countries. Camera not included. ©2013 Horizon Hobby, Inc. Blade, SAFE, the SAFE logo, SAFE Circle, Bind-N-Fly, Serious Fun and the Horizon Hobby logo are trademarks or registered trademarks of Horizon Hobby, Inc. All other trademarks, service marks and logos are property of their respective owners. Patents Pending. Actual product may vary slightly from photos shown. 42152

see it in action at BladeQuad.com

VISIT

Your Local Retailer

CLICK

horizonhobby.com

CALL

1.800.338.4639

SERIOUS FUN Â®

Phoenix Edge series ESCs are intended for use in helicopters ranging from 450 to 800 size, and up to 1.20 size fixed wing aircraft.

The all new Vertigo line of heli motors is available for sizes 450, 500, 550, 600 and 700 class helis and offer superior quality and performance.

4x Fully Integrated Antennas

Swappable and Assignable Switches Internal Dual RF Transmitter 2.4GHz Modules Integrated Mini USB Port Integrated 4GB Micro SD Cart Adjustable Tension & Gimbal Rotation

Integrated 3200mAh Li-poly Battery Pack

Solid Metal, Hall Sensor Gimbals with 9x Ball Bearings

Solid Aluminum, CNC Cut Transmitter Case

www.ESPRITMODEL.com

Jetiusa (1) 321-729-4287

www.JetiUSA.com

PG 22 DEPARTMENTS

10 12 112 113

LEADING EDGE HOT PRODUCTS

HOW TO

GAS MIX RATIOS This easy-to-read chart will explain the mix ratios needed for gas-powered 2-cycle engines. By Staff

AEROBATICS #8 P-FACTOR Daniel explains why P-factor can impact your airplane’s flight in all attitudes. By Daniel Holman

DARK ART OF FPV FLYING In part one of FPV flying, Patrick Sherman details what FPV flying entails. By Lucidity

ADVERTISER INDEX MYSTERY AIRPLANE

PG 68

EVENT

RC SPORT FLYER — NOVEMBER 2013

CUBS n’ COUSINS See why this event was so much fun for Cubs pilots of all kinds. By Wil Byers

BUILD

BRISTOL BEAUFIGHTER #4 Get if from the best in the business on how to build landing gear. By David Wigley

COVERING THE DALLAIRE SPORTSTER In this issue Jeff shows you how he covers his model’s wings using his divide-by method. By Jeff Troy

LEARN COCKPIT FABRICATION See what all it takes to build a cockpit for a Top Gun winning airplane. By Rob Caso

TEST

O.S. GF 40 GAS ENGINE You’ll get an inside and out look at the new O.S. Engines GF 40 in this test. By Mike Hoffmeister

Thrust Flight Direction

NOVEMBER 2013

PG 50

PG 42

Decreased angle of attack Increased angle of attack

REVIEW

80 COLUMN

E-POWER COLUMN #2 Learn why resistance is a big part of any electrical circuit’s ability to deliver current. By Andrew Gibbs

PHOTO

PEDRO SANCHEZ’S STEARMAN Take an up-close look at this beautiful Stearman to see how it gets married to a Moki radial engine—it’s gorgeous. By Jerry Smith

PG 30

HANGAR 9 PA-18 SUPER CUB If you are a Cub lover, give this review a read before buying your own. By Wil Byers & Gene Cope

ICARE RC MOSWEY This 1/3.785-scale glider uses molded construction but looks scratch built. See why. By Wil Byers

JR’S NEW XG14 RADIO SYSTEM We show you why this new, true 14-channel 2.4-GHz DMSS system may just be the hottest new radio in RC. By SF Staff

106

HANGAR 9 26CC TAYLORCRAFT When it comes to a BNF scale airplane, this model is going to be hard to beat. By Wil Byers

PG 90

RC-SF.COM

SUBSCRIBE @ RC-SF.COM FOR ONLY $24.95

Editor in Chief:

Wil Byers

Assistant Editors:

Caroline Minard Bess Byers, Lucy Teng, Asa Clinton

Art Director:

Zhe Meng

Photography:

Wil Byers Bess Byers

Graphic Designers:

Zhe Meng Bess Byers Shi Yuang

Webmaster Contact:

Chang Liang

Office Manager/Circulation:

Sue Wharton

Office Assistant:

Sue Wharton

Circulation:

Christian Wells

Marketing:

Wil Byers, Sue Wharton ads@rc-sf.com

web@kionapublishing.com support@kionapublishing.com

Contributing Editors: Rob Caso, Gene Cope, Andrew Gibbs, Daniel Holman, Mike Hoffmeister, Richard Kuns, Joe Nave, David Phelps, Steve Rojecki, Gary Ritchie, Mike Shellim, Patrick Sherman, Jerry Smith, Jeff Troy, James VanWinkle RC Sport Flyer (ISSN: 1941-3467) is published monthly for $24.95 per year by Kiona Publishing, Inc., P.O. Box 4250, W. Richland, WA 99353-4004. Periodicals postage paid at Richland, WA and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to RC Sport Flyer, P.O. Box 4250, W. Richland, WA 99353-4004. Office: (509) 967-0831 Hours: M–Th 8-4, Closed Fri, Sat & Sun. Subscriptions: kionasubscribe.com Toll Free (Orders Only) (866) 967-0831 Editor/Ads/Design: (509) 967-0832 E-mail: subscriptions@kionapublishing.com Fax Number: (509) 967-2400 Ask for RC Sport Flyer at your local hobby shop!

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Hobby Shop distribution by: Kalmbach Publishing Co. (800) 558-1544 ext. 818 Subscriptions: USA and possessions and Canada: $24.95 per year, $54.95 overseas. Washington residents add 8.3% sales tax. Single copies $6.49 plus $3.50 S&H U.S. All payments must be in U.S. funds. Visa, Mastercard, Amex, and Discover accepted. Send to: RC Sport Flyer – Circulation, P.O. Box 4250, W. Richland, WA 99353-4004. Please allow eight weeks for change of address. MEDIA USE:

Contributions: Articles and photographs are welcome, but cannot be considered unless guaranteed exclusive. When requested we will endeavor to return all materials in good condition if accompanied by return postage. RC Sport Flyer assumes no responsibility for loss of or damage to editorial contributions received. Any material accepted is subject to possible revision at the discretion of the publisher. Publisher assumes no responsibility for accuracy of content. Opinions of contributing authors do not necessarily reflect those of the publisher. RC Sport Flyer will retain author’s rights, title to and interest in the editorial contributions as described above in both print and electronic media unless prior arrangement has been made in writing. Payment for editorial materials will be made at our current rate. Submission of editorial material to RC Sport Flyer expresses a warranty by the author that such material is in no way an infringement upon the rights of others. The contents of this magazine may not be reprinted traditionally or electronically without permission of the publisher. FOR PRESENTATION PROJECTIONS, FLAT SCREEN MONITORS, CRT MONITORS USE

a. HEXACHROME #09195B or b. R = 9 G = 25 B = 91

FOR PRINT (Lithography, Screen printing), USE

a. PMS 294 Uncoated b. C = 95 M = 65 Y = 17 K=5

RC SPORT FLYER — NOVEMBER 2013

graphics@rc-sf.com

wil@rc-sf.com

Printed in the USA

Maxx Products is your complete source for Electric Airplane Accessories

Mounts - Heatsink or plain mounts for beam mount Fit 20, 28, and 36 mm motors.

Heatsinks - Extruded aluminum heatsinks Fit 12, 20, 28, and 36mm motors.

Prop Adapters - Over 20 types and counting, Collet and set screw type prop adapters and prop savers Fit 2mm, 2.3mm, 3mm, 1/8”, 4mm, 5/32”, 5mm, 6mm, & 8mm motor shafts.

Spinners - 29, 38, 44 and 50mm lightweight polished aluminum spinners - Fit 2 to 5mm motor shafts.

Gearboxes - Assorted planetary and offset gearboxes to fit a variety of motors. Tools - Universal Pinion Puller. Universal Extracting Tool

1570 Switch - This simple switch temporarily disconnects BEC power to the radio system between flights.

• Micro wire (32AWG) extensions, Y-harness, switch harness for small electric airplanes, • Full line of Himax Brushless motors and gear motors, • Full line of ferrite motors and high performance cobalt & neodymium motors, Micro servos, micro receivers, and battery packs. Visit Our Website to See the Complete Line!

Get The Most For Your Hobby Dollar, Visit Your Local Hobby Shop!

Wheels - Light weight wheels with strong hubs Sizes: 1.25”, 1.5”, 2”, 2.5”, and 3.00”

Exclusive Distributor

MAXX Products International, Inc. 815 Oakwood Rd., Unit D, Lake Zurich, IL 60047, USA Ph: 847-438-2233 Fax: 847-438-2898

www.maxxprod.com

WIL BYERS

et me kick off this month’s issue by saying I think we have the best magazine going, bar none. If I didn’t I wouldn’t be in this editor’s chair. I certainly would not be here until 6 or 7 p.m. most nights trying to knock out the next edition. Rather, I would sit atop a slope somewhere flying my brains out. What I think RC Sport Flyer has is some of the best writers in RC. They are RC pilots and builders who have the experience it takes to share real, usable information with you. Our contributing editors have a real passion for the hobby too. They call me on the phone or send an e-mail pumped up about one project after another. These are the kind of guys I want writing for you. Straight up, they are NOT doing it for the money or the products. They write because they love the bloody hobby and want it to grow, so they share their knowledge with you. Share It As such, we have something special this month to get our magazine in front of more readers and subscribers. We will give away this issue as a PDF file. We encourage you to download it at rc-sportflyer.com/sample/SF18-11.pdf. Moreover, we ask you to share this issue’s PDF link with as many friends and flyers as possible. We want them to see why RC Sport Flyer is different from the rest—different in a way we truly believe is better. We make no bones about the fact we hope they will sign up for either a hardcopy or digital subscription. So, please share it! Know too when you subscribe to the magazine you’ll receive accurate, honest and continuous content each month. You won’t need to search for content, hoping to find it. And, we will continue to give readers the best content found anywhere. Then too, if you subscribe you’ll receive our digital newsletter each month, get more information at our blog and partake in You Tube videos when they are available. It is all part of being a subscriber to RC-SF. New Contributing Editors As you read through this issue you will see we have a few new contributing editors. They add more real, informative and educational content to each issue going forward. The first of these editors is Andrew Gibbs. Andrew wrote the book Gibbs’ Guide. As the author, he shares his special insights into the technical side of the hobby with respect to electric-powered airplanes. I promise you, Andrew’s column will help you better understand electric-powered airplanes of any size. Next, Patrick Sherman (Lucidity) is an honest-to-goodness first person view (FPV) expert. He has flown FPV for years now. If you’ve wanted to know the ins and outs of FPV flying you’ll definitely want to read his columns each month. Lucidity will take you from the ground up on how to configure and fly an FPV machine. I know, for a fact, I’m reading his columns closely. David Phelps served as U.S. Army helicopter pilot. If you know anything about these helicopter pilots you know it is a challenging job by any measure. We are very fortunate to have David write for us starting with the December issue. He will explain helicopter flight and write reviews when appropriate. We’re pleased to have him in an RC-SF pilot’s seat. Cubs n’ Cousins Some of you may wonder why our cover is graced with a shot from the 2013 Cubs n’ Cousins event. Simple. We’re trying to promote this event format and its copycats. We’re doing so because Cubs n’ Cousins was a whole bunch of fun for pilots that attended and for us to sponsor. Importantly, Cubs n’ Cousins was about the MOST inclusive event I’ve attended since the kickoff of the Southeast Electric Flight Festival—which has over the years turned into a mega event. Consequently, we seriously hope other AMA sanctioned clubs across the country will adopt this format and put on events like Cubs n’ Cousins. Next Month For those waiting and wondering, our December 2013 issue is our tablet launch date. I guarantee, you will be impressed by its interactivity. Finally, don’t forget to point your browser at: rc-sportflyer.com/sample/SF18-11.pdf to get this issue’s PDF file. ‘Till next month, fly like a sport pilot.

APC Competition propellers for the intermediate and

advanced sport ﬂyer as well as the competition community. Over 400 pitch/diameters available ranging from slow-ﬂyer electric to High performance Giant Scale Racers.

Visit the APC Prop Website for product selection and detailed information on product design and features.

LANDING PRODUCTS All propellers are in stock and overnight delivery is available. Proudly made in the USA

RC SPORT FLYER — NOVEMBER 2013

1222 Harter Ave., Woodland, CA 95776 (530) 661-0399 est. 1989 by Mr. Fred Burgdorf

Relax & Soar

The New E-flite® Mystique® RES 2.9 m ARF

KE Y FE AT URE S

The E-flite® Mystique® RES 2.9 m ARF sailplane was inspired by the success of the full-house Mystique 2.9 m—optimized to provide exquisite performance with simply rudder, elevator and spoiler guidance controls. Ideal for intermediate pilots, the overall size makes a huge impression where it counts. The large wing provides gentle flight characteristics yet still delivers the authority to turn abruptly into thermals. Built-in spoilers give the ability to escape a thermal and perform spot landings with greater precision. A simple 4-channel radio is all you’ll need to build it with modern electric power, or as a pure sailplane suitable for launching off a winch, Hi-start or even a slope.

EFL4915 > Very low parts count and minimal assembly required > All wood, plug-in wings with pre-hinged spoilers > Factory-painted fiberglass fuselage with built-in vertical fin > Genuine Hangar 9® UltraCote® and UltraCote Lite film covering > Large canopy provides easy access to equipment and batteries > Heavy-duty carbon fiber wing and stabilizer joiners > Two-piece, full-flying stabilizer > Complete, high-quality hardware package > Requires just a simple 4-channel radio system

If an uplifting sailplane experience sounds good to you, visit E-fliteRC. com to find the closest retailer and more details.

114 in (2.90 m)

1030 sq in (66.5 sq dm)

58.5 in (1.48 m)

Power 25 BL Outrunner Motor, 1000Kv The newest E-flite Power 25 (EFLM4025C) features a reversed shaft and a higher output for stronger climbs and faster speed. 4.85–5.00 lb (2.20–2.25 kg)

Mystique shown with E-flite 14×8 folding propeller and 40mm aluminum spinner set (EFLP14080FA)—sold separately.

VISIT

Your Local Retailer

CLICK

horizonhobby.com

CALL

1.800.338.4639

SERIOUS FUN.®

AeroWorks 30cc Laser 200

AeroWorks 4903 Nome Street Denver, CO 80239 Phone: 303-371-4222 aero-works.net

he laser was the standard for RC and full-scale aerobatic aircraft. The new AeroWorks 30-cc-powered Laser 200 ARF is QUICK BUILD series aircraft. It will be an iconic airplane for a new generation of RC pilots. Designed to dominate full-scale aerobatic competitions, the Laser 200 model is a true pilot’s airplane, capable of smooth lines, mind blowing tumbles and extreme 3D aerobatics. The Laser’s large tail provides exceptional control authority while still allowing the airplane to draw clean, graceful lines, which allows for a truly versatile aerobatic thoroughbred. The AeroWorks scale Laser 200 features balsa and laser-cut construction, a twopiece wing, removable quick release canopy, flying wire supported tail, fiberglass cowling and wheel pants, as well as the best in SAE-sized hardware. If you like scale and aerobatics combined, this new 30cc Laser is sure to impress RCers with looks and flight performance.

• Painted and pre-mounted 7075 aluminum landing gear • High Quality SAE hardware package • Adjustable pushrods with centering nut • Two-piece wing design • Carbon wing tube • Covered in ULTRACOTE™ • Pre-hinged wing with pin style hinges • One servo wing • Large control surfaces double beveled for maximum throw • Pre-mounted fiberglass cowl and wheel pants • Pre-mounted and tinted canopy • Quick release canopy hatch • Pre-installed and fuel proofed engine box • Laser-cut engine mounting templates provided

Specifications Wingspan

76 in.

Wing area

1121 in.2

Length

67.5 in. (rudder to spinner)

Cowl width

8.75 in.

Weight

11.5 lb

Engine

30- to 35-cc

Radio

6-channel min

• Extra Ultracote™ covering provided for small repairs • Pre-assembled gas tank • CG Buddy included • 8- to 10-hour assembly

Features • Strong lightweight construction • Complete and detailed instruction manual on CD

J-3 Cub 450

Horizon Hobby 4105 Fieldstone Road Champaign, IL 61822 Phone: 217-352-1913 Horizonhobby.com

he E-flite J-3 Cub 450 ARF is the perfect scale model for small-field flying or making a quick flight at the local park. No other full-scale airplane has touched more pilots or better demonstrated that flight is an unequivocal expression of freedom than the J-3 Cub. Its practical design not only made it versatile, but more importantly, made it a pure joy to fly. E-flite captures the Cub spirit in a lightweight all-wood aircraft that authentically replicates the character and distinctive outline of what the designer envisioned as

RC SPORT FLYER — NOVEMBER 2013

the airplane for everyone. From the richness of its traditional construction, to the authentic sheen of its UltraCote finish and balloon-shape wheels, the E-flite J-3 Cub 450 ARF delivers a great-looking scale model the casual flier to expert scale critic will appreciate. The

recommended E-flite power system was designed around popular and economical 3S LiPo batteries to provide long, lazy flights or one-wheel touch-n-goes. EFL3010 $169.99

HOT PRODUCTS

AirBorne Models EF1 Class Air Racers

AirBorne Models / The World Models 4749-K, Bennett Drive Livermore, CA 94551 Phone: 925-371 0922 www.airborne-models.com

• • • • •

Propeller adaptor HW2340300 40-amp brushless ESC 11x8E propeller 4-cell 14.8-volt 3200-mAh LiPo battery Charger

Specifications Wingspan

50.5 in. / 1280 mm

Wing area

392in.2 / 25.3 dm2

Weight

3.74 Ib / 1700 g

Length

42.5 in. / 1080 mm

Price

$179.99 (#E337XM)

irBorne models is introducing two new EF1 racers, the silver Outrageous EF1 and the red Scarlet Screamer EF1. These airplanes are designed for electric motor power for clean, quiet fun. Even on electric power these two models promise to be quite fast, which will make for exciting piloting. The modes come covered, with pilot installed. Consider having your club members by an number of these airplanes so you can start club racing. At a price of just $179.99 they are an affordable option for almost any pilot. Requires • 4-channel radio w/ 4 mini servos • Outrunner motor KM037481

Alternate Uses For Jeti MUI Sensors

Esprit 1240 Clearmont St NE, Unit 12 Palm Bay, FL 32905 Phone: 321-729-4287 espritmodel.com

he MUI sensors (voltage and current) serve as a fuel sensor for a turbine engine. The theory is that if the relationship between energy consumed by the fuel pump is linear to the amount of fuel pumped, the MUI Sensor would provide a lightweight fuel gauge that provides an alarm for low fuel. This was proved by Miroslav Pastyrik. He set up a simulation of a turbine engine. He used a DC regulator set at a range (0.8 – 4.7 volts) to replicate the electronic control of the

TELEMETRIC DATA

JETI DUPLEX RECEIVER

turbine engine. Tubes for fuel flow were also adjusted so that the flow volume was that of the injection jets of the turbine engine. Several trials were conducted using various fuel pumps. Through his tests, he found the fuel pumps took higher current during higher output, but needed shorter time to pump equal amounts of fuel. Therefore the rate of pumping had no influence on the result. His maximum deviation was noted to be 4% and occurring mostly during free-running (tension

ACCUMULATOR 8 pcs. NiCd

TURBINE CONTROL UNIT MEASURED VALUES

TENSION SENSOR

JETI DUPLEX MUI SENSOR

FUEL PUMP

set between 0.8 – 1.5V) and least while running at half or full throttle. The MUI current and voltage sensor will monitor fuel level for a turbine engine when starting from a full tank. You can then set alerts according to the levels of consumption. RC-SF.COM

BRUSHLESS MOTOR BEARINGS

Boca Bearing Phone: 800-332-3256 info@bocabearings.com bocabearings.com

C brushless motors have revolutionized the RC and UAV industries with cutting-edge, high-powered alternatives to nitro-powered engines. Switching to an RC brushless electric motor makes for a perfect opportunity to upgrade the motors stock bearings. Using high-grade bearings in a brushless motor results in a longer lasting bearing, as well as requiring less energy to achieve and maintain peak rpm. The Boca Bearing Company offers a full line of aftermarket and upgrade replacement bearing kits and individual bearings to compliment these new motors. To make things easy, customers can search our website to see the motor kits available. Aftermarket bearing kits are available for all of the most popular RC brushless motors such as E-Flite,

Ventus 2cx 4.4m

Icare/Icarus 890 ch. d’Anjou unit 1 Boucherville, QC J4B-5E4 Canada Phone: 405-449-9094 icare-rc.com

CARE just got in a new high performance scale glider, a gorgeous ARF sailplane, suited for aero-towing and thermal soaring. With a wingspan of 4.4 m, this 1:4 scale Ventus 2cx is one of our finest super-scale gliders. The cockpit comes completely finished, upholstered seats, and many scale details such as instrument mushrooms complete with instruments. The canopy is finished, fitted and painted. All that remains for the builder to do is add a scale pilot figure. The model has sheeted and film-covered wings. All control surfaces come pre-cut and hinged ready to hook up servos and controls. It features a modified RG15 airfoil, which gives this model a smooth and versatile flying characteristic. The Ventus

RC SPORT FLYER — NOVEMBER 2013

Emaxx, Novak, Mamba, Castle Creations and many more. Three different bearings versions are available in pre-packaged kits. The Econo Power ABEC 5 line of bearings comes with stainless steel races and balls that are ideal for backyard bashers or budget minded racers; the Ceramic Lightning ABEC 5 line of bearings are supplied with high-speed ceramic balls

flies well in slope lift, can be winch launched, but is at its best when aero-towed or with a self launch system. The wing planform gives it exceptional thermalling performance and the wings are very strong, designed to withstand some heavy-duty aerobatics. Like its full-scale counterpart, the poly brake wing planform, with winglets, looks especially graceful and unique in the air and gives it very smooth handling. With the level of pre-fabrication of this glider, only a few hours of work to have it flight ready. The wings and control surfaces are Oracover® covered. Airbrakes are installed and ready to be connected to its servos. A retract is installed in the high gloss, gel-coated fiberglass fuselage. Also, the rudder and elevator are hollow molded. All servos wires come factory installed. A small package of

and stainless steel races suitable for club racers. The Ceramic Orange Seal ABEC 7 line comes with race-ready, high precision ceramic balls and stainless steel races with non-contact rubber seals perfect for pro racers. Whether you are looking for affordability, longevity or high speed, Boca Bearings has just the bearing for you. Dealer discounts are available upon request.

Specifications Scale

1:4

Wingspan

173 in. (4.4 m)

Length

61 in. (1.56 m)

Wing area

1100 in.2 (71 dm2)

Wing airfoil

RG 15 modified

Weight

158 oz (4.5 - 5.3 kg)

Wing loading

20 oz/ft2 (63 g/dm2)

Radio

Standard radio

Servos

Mini and micro

Price

ARF $1047

hardware and building instructions complete the kit. Radio requirements are four micro servos for the ailerons and flaps, two mini servos for the airbrakes, two sub-micro servos for the winglet ailerons and four regular servos for the elevator, rudder, retract, and tow release.

HOT PRODUCTS

AXE 100 SS

Great Planes P.O. Box 9021 Champaign, IL 61821 Phone: 800-637-7660 greatplanes.com

eli-Max has combined Axe 100 CP agility with an aggressive brushless power system to create the Axe 100 SS (Super Sport Brushless). It has the same performanceproven flybarless collective-pitch head and TAGS three-axis gyro found in the CP, but expands the performance possibilities with a number of updates. A 14,750 Kv brushless outrunner motor and brushless 10-amp controller boost power. Other enhancements

include an extended tail boom as well as a new frame and new rotor blades. It’s perfect for the pilot who wants to push the limits — and it’s available as an all-in-one RTF with radio or in a Tx-R version. Features • Brushless-powered for mastering the most demanding stunts. • Reinforced, molded airframe to accommodate brushless motor power. • Individual controller and servos to maximize performance

Specifications Rotor Diameter

9.5 in. (242 mm)

Weight (w/o battery)

1.7 oz (48 g)

Length

10.4 in. (264 mm)

Models

HMXE0824 (RTF) HMXE0825 (Tx-R)

and simplify maintenance. • Extended tail boom for improved tail authority. • Dependable, responsive motor-driven tail rotor

• • • • • • •

Mandarin 3.6E F5J/ALES Sailplane

Esprit Model 1240 Clearmont St NE, Unit 12 Palm Bay, FL 32905 Phone: 321-729-4287 espritmodel.com

main spars. The hollow-molded stabilizer and vertical fin come with balsa built-up control surfaces that are covered in transparent ironon film. The fuselage is gel-coated Kevlar®/ CF with Kevlar/carbon fiber tapered tail boom. The model is covered with Ultracote. All control surfaces are hinged with adhesive

Includes TTX610 6-channel 2.4-GHz transmitter SLT 10-model memory 5-point pitch curve Exponential Digital trims Adjustable gyro sensitivity

tape. The Mandarin comes with optional pushrods for in-fuselage tail servo installation. Esprit recommends using micro servos in the tail for more precise control. This sailplane needs only basic assembly and motor/radio installation. The two piece wing is easily removable for transport and storage.

sprit’s new Mandarin Competition 3.6-meter sailplane is the newest addition to the ever-growing family of European, hand-made electric-powered sailplanes. Their new Mandarin 3.6E F5J/ALES, with its beautiful X-tail and elegant, tapered leading edge wing is simply breath-taking to watch thermal. This sailplane is an incredibly well rounded, stable and predictable flyer, suitable for experienced beginners as well as advanced pilots. The synergy of low weight and strong structure is very unusual in a production sailplane and can only be achieved with careful attention to design and construction. The entire model is constructed using freeflight techniques. The wings are balsa sheeted, foam core with carbon fiber reinforced I-Beam FOLLOW US ON TWITTER @RCSPORTFLYER

RC-SF.COM

R4iL and R4L

Esprit Model 1240 Clearmont St NE, Unit 12 Palm Bay, FL 32905 Phone: 321-729-4287 espritmodel.com

ffordable and made with the Jeti quality, this new receiver by Jeti offers a great way to gain basic telemetry options on a budget. These four-channel receivers allow you to

LiPo Pal 3-in-1 Voltage/ Capacity Reader and LiPo Balancer

Common Sense RC PO Box 3546 Chatsworth, CA 91313 Phone: 866-405-8811 commonsenserc.com

monitor receiver voltage and signal strength data using the Duplex JetiBox Profi or Jeti 2.4-GHz transmitters. With a two-year warranty against manufacture defects, and a 50 percent

his pocket-sized tool displays the capacity of your LiPo as a percentage so you know without a doubt how much runtime you have left! Also functions as a voltage reader and cell balancer! Works for LiPo 2S–6S. Features • Capacity Reader Displays the remaining capacity of a battery as a percentage • Voltage Reader Displays the voltage of each individual cell • Balancer Balances cells with voltage variations of 0.02 volt or greater

DS-16 Carbon

Esprit 1240 Clearmont St NE, Unit 12 Palm Bay, FL 32905 Phone: 321-729-4287 espritmodel.com

he DS-16 Carbon represents Jeti’s new flagship, state-of-the-art transmitter! It

Lipo Charging Safety Bags

Esprit 1240 Clearmont St NE, Unit 12 Palm Bay, FL 32905 Phone: 321-729-4287 espritmodel.com

RC SPORT FLYER — NOVEMBER 2013

sets a new standard for the RC Industry. Jeti’s final touches and finishes are outstanding in this new iteration of the transmitter. For example, the front panel of the system is made of genuine carbon fiber that is UV stabilized acrylic with a clear coating, as well as aluminum frame that is finished in multi-layer automotive paint. Point your browser at Esprit to learn more.

he Lipo Charging and Storage Safe Bag is made of Kevlar® with an aluminum coating, the same material as fire fighter’s clothes! This combination of Kevlar and aluminum provides superior fireproof protection. Esprit Models’ Charge bags are offered in two sizes, large and small. The large bag will fit two medium to large LiPo batteries. The small bag offers the same great protection, in a size that will fit two small to medium LiPo batteries.

crash replacement option, these receivers are an excellent value now for your piloting needs.

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ith exceptional performance in a compact size, Futaba’s S.Bus2 servos are just what today’s RC airplanes need. SV servos are designed to work well with voltages from 2S LiPo packs, while a removable connector makes SVi servos extremely versatile. These servos deliver the added power of the BLS’s brushless servos too.

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two versions to choose from: the all-in-one RTF and the Transmitter-Ready model that can be flown with any transmitter with SLT or one compatible with AnyLink. Features • Foam construction • Molded in details

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• Authentic trim scheme • 2 pilot figures • ElectriFly 140-mAh LiPo are smooth and steady, with power supplied by an included ElectriFly 140-mAh LiPo battery. There are

RC SPORT FLYER — NOVEMBER 2013

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iscover how easy it is to teach yourself to fly with the Duet, with this small RC airplane that can turns dreams of flight into a reality. Even those who have never flown an

Inverza™ 33 ARF

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he new and groundbreaking HobbyZone® Delta Ray aircraft utilizes SAFE™ technology to provide new pilots with an unprecedented flight assistance and envelope protection.

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Ultra Micro ICON A5 BNF with AS3X Technology

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ow you can fly wherever adventure awaits you with this thrilling ParkZone® Ultra Micro Series version of the ICON A5. Officially licensed by ICON aircraft, this new model boasts an accurate scale outline, numerous details and an authentic trim scheme. Its specially shaped hull makes taking off and

RC SPORT FLYER — NOVEMBER 2013

With SAFE technology and carefully engineered aerodynamics, the Delta Ray flying experience is gentle and worry-free, even for total beginners. SAFE technology makes the Delta Ray the easiest flying experience offered to date. This is an airplane made for the masses, so point your browser at the Horizon website for more information. HBZ7900 $179.99

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SERIOUS FUN.™

BY Wil Byers

CUBS N’ COUSINS IT IS A FAMILY AFFAIR,WITH AUNTS, UNCLES N’ COUSINS INVITED!

rom time to time a new idea pops up in our hobby that just makes sense. Such is the case with the first annual Cubs n’ Cousins event, as evidenced by all the pilots that attended for this Academy of Model Aeronautics (AMA) sanctioned first-of-its-kind fun fly. The idea for and event came from two Cub pilots, Gary Owen and Cain Lopez, after they attended a CubNuts event. However, they wanted to host an event that would let Cub enthusiasts from around the country come together for three days of 2

flying. Moreover, they wanted their event to have a relaxed atmosphere where pilots from beginner to expert could attend, without feeling out of step with the group. Their concept for Cubs n’ Cousins also included having pilots feel comfortable flying Cub type airplanes that ranged in build quality from the typical foamy to an ultra scale. They would also welcome models that used internal-combustion engines and were electric-motor powered. Furthermore, they did not want their event to be exclusive to only Piper

Cub type aircraft—rather, they felt it must include Cub cousins! So it was that planning began for their 2013 event in late 2012. Looking back on the event, its planning and how it materialized, one would have to say it was a success. You see, it was a relaxed atmosphere, the pilots ranged from near beginner to full-on 3D experts and some of the airplanes flown and shown were simply eye popping, but they were Cubs and their cousins none the less. I’ll say right up front, that this is an event model to be copied all over the 3

RC SPORT FLYER — NOVEMBER 2013

CUBS N’ COUSINS country, that is if your club is looking for a way to bring a whole bunch of pilots together to have a truly good time. This is an easy format to follow and it is certainly likely to be a success, which means your club will bring a lot of pilots together, and you may even make a couple of bucks for the treasury.

WHERE

The RC airfield that was host for the 2013 Cubs n’ Cousins fun fly is owned by a guy that absolutely loves aviation, Gary Weaver. His RC and ultra-light airplane airfield is in Othello, Washington, which is about three hours by automobile from Seattle, two hours from Spokane and an hour from Pasco. Othello is in eastern Washington, which has an environment much different from that of Seattle. You see, Othello is a small farm town that is drenched in about 300 days of sunshine a year. It is home to some of richest farmland in the U.S., land that produces abundant crops thanks to irrigation, fertilization and intelligent, state-ofthe-art farming practices.

Joshua Pulsipher put on a good show with his 1/3-scale Airborne Models Clipped Wing Cub. His model is powered by a DA-100 engine, with a smoke system.

Kelly Martin from Sherwood, OR came to Cubs n’ Cousins with 1/3-scale Super Cub that he built from a World Models kit that modified significantly.

The Cub has a 140.5-in. wingspan and is powered by Saito 57T gas engine that turns 24x6 prop. It uses Futaba control, has independent brakes and halogen lights.

Here is just part of the flight line at the event. As you can see pilots brought lots of airplanes to fly, including a number that would be flown after hours.

Kelly Martin and his son are shown here enjoying themselves flying their Cub. The Cub’s 4-stroke gaspowered engine provided a very realistic full-scale-like sound.

The Hangar 9 PA-18 Super Cub got lots of looks all weekend long. It is powered by a Power 110 motor that is on 8S Lipos. See the complete review of this model in this issue...

Cain Lopez is shown at the far left readying the Multplex Fun Cubs for an all-up last down event, which was modified to give the pilots a challenge and spectators a laugh.

4 5

RC-SF.COM

In front is a gas-powered Hangar 9 Super Cub, with Cain’s 1/3-scale DLE 111-powered Cub in the back. Notice the large wheels on the PA18 Super Cub.

The pits were filled with Cub cousins. They ranged from Stinsons to Carbon Cubs and even a few more modern-day aircraft such as the PZL Wilga. The beautiful Sinson never flew

10 during the event, but was a

standout from the crowd in its gorgeous blue, white and orange color scheme. This shows a good sampling of the

11 crowd that came to fly in the first

annual 2013 Cubs n’ Cousins event. Organizers are already planning for the 2014 Cn’C event... The Hangar 9 Taylorcraft is shown

12 in front of the World Models gas-

powered Paulistinha. The Hangar 9 Taylorcraft is reviewed in this issue of the magazine. Cain’s big 40%-scale Hempel Cub

13 makes a departure turn after 9

doing a low pass on the runway. This model is covered in fabric and doped. It is an outstanding flyer.

RC SPORT FLYER — NOVEMBER 2013

CUBS N’ COUSINS

15 17 16

Gary’s airfield (weaversrcairfield. com) is in the heart of this farmland. It is quite a beautiful site, with an on-field hangar, workshop and a number of RV hookups. The site is approximately 20 acres of wellmanicured and close-mown grass. The runway adjoins about 150 acres of farmland that is typically in alfalfa or other crops, so an off-field landing will not cost you a lost airplane. To say the site is nearly perfect for an event like Cubs n’ Cousins is pretty much an understatement. The hangar has a fully equipped kitchen— with Cain and Homer Montemayor cooking breakfasts, pilots were welcomed each morning with a huge breakfast and some of the best coffee you’ll get anywhere! There was open flying too, that is until the pilots meeting began, which took place each day promptly at 9 a.m. on the flight line. Pilots could also get a lunch from the kitchen—burgers, chips, salad and a drink. All in all, it was a well-run event. FOLLOW US ON TWITTER @RCSPORTFLYER

COUSINS

While the flight line was filled with Piper Cubs, Super Cubs and all versions of the venerable Piper Cub, there were many other airplanes shown and flown that can claim some heritage to the Cub lineage. This pretty much meant they were highwing, two- or four-place, single-engine airplanes. What you saw on the flight line was everything from a J2 Cub to J3s, Super Cubs PA-18s, an L4 and even a rare Taylor Cub—the one that started it all for Piper. Some of these models were build from scratch, others from kits and a number were from almost-ready-tofly (ARF) kits. What made the fun fly even more enjoyable was that some were glow powered (I hadn’t smelled nitromethane in a while and loved it), others were gas powered and yet others were electric powered. What Own and Lopez had planned for the event was to let any cousin of the Cub fly. While this was

Gary Owen’s 1/4-scale Carbon Cub

14 was built from scratch, including its

fiberglass cowling. Here it is making a full-flap landing approach. The model has big, bush type tires. I was flying my 40%-scale

15 AeroWorks Carbon Cub. The model

is powered by a DA-120 gas engine that turns a 29x12 Falcon carbon propeller. This model is a joy to fly! Mark Spain flew his Hangar 9

16 1/4-scale electric-powered PA-18 Super Cub like a pro. He has only been flying for a year, but you would never know it by his skill.

Dick Ovrid scratch built this Super

17 Cub and finished it to pictures Gary

Weaver gave him of his full scale Cub he flew years ago. Dick’s model is powered by a G-26 engine. This 1/5-scale Clipped Wing Cub

18 was glow-powered and flew well

for its size. What is interesting is all the color schemes used on Cubs and their cousins. The pattern could get pretty full at

19 times as you see here. Fortunately,

all the pilots were very cognizant of the airspace needed by other aircraft, so there were no mid-airs.

RC-SF.COM

20 This 1/3-scale L4 Grasshopper was

20 electric powered. Believe me when I tell you the motor provided a ton of power, so much so that this model jumped into the air. John Pulsipher was a very good

21 pilot, capable of 3D and pattern.

Here he is captured with his wellworn Multiplex Fun Cub that he flew in the noontime contest. This 1/3-scale PZL was built and

22 flown by Paul Egan. It is powered by a Moki radial engine. Paul did all the painting and detailing on this model—fantastic! Ted Hendrickson flew his scratch

23 built Taylor Cub. His model

accurately depicts the character of the full-scale airplane, including its slow and docile flight. Gary Owen’s Stenson Reliant is an

24 example of one of the Cub cousins 21

that were allowed to be flown at the event because it is a high-wing, single-engine airplane of the era.

not a strict interpretation of what would qualify as a Cub it made for a fun event in that pilots could fly airplanes like the Taylorcraft, the Aeronca Champion, Paulistinha, Waco, Stinson, Carbon Cub, Clipped-Wing Cub, Fairchild Ranger, Porterfield, Luscombe, Cessna 140, Storche, Wilga, etc. The rules (if you can call them that) were such that there was a nice variety of airplane to grace the pits and flight line. And, since the airplanes’ construction could be anything from wood to foam no pilot was left out because they did not have the right “flavor” of aircraft. Suffice it to say the 2013 Cubs n’ Cousins’ rules were very inclusive and not exclusive.

2014

Looking to 2014, the Cubs n’ Cousins fun fly is planned for the weekend of August 22, 23 and 24. That means it is at the end of summer when the weather is often beyond compare in terms of warm days, light winds and lots of sunshine. The airfield will be in near perfect condition too, because Cain and Homer groom it each week. Then too, the organizers will have had time to ready themselves and their staff for hosting you at one of the best flying sites on the west coast. It also means you will have had lots of time to build, buy or borrow a Cub or a Cub cousin for this one-ofa-kind event. However, by this time next year I’d venture to bet that many clubs across the country will

23 24

RC SPORT FLYER — NOVEMBER 2013

CUBS N’ COUSINS

DEMO’S What is an event without at least a small airshow for the spectators? A noontime air show just adds a element of fun to any event for spectators and the registered pilots. They are just part of the fun! The 2013 Cubs n’ Cousins event did not have an organized noontime air show as you might find at other large events. That said, this was the first year for this event. What Gary and Cain did do, however, was allow for open flying during noontime lunch break. As such, some of the local topnotch pilots that were there flew their models, both 3D and ultra scale. As you would expect they got the attentions of both the spectators and the pilots. One of the models that impressed me was Joshua Pulsipher’s Airborne Models Clipped Wing Cub, which was powered by a DA100 gas-powered engine. Joshua was also flying a PAU 33%-scale Extra 300SP that was powered by a DLE 111 two-cylinder, gaspowered engine. He put on a show with both his models as did his brother flying a DLE powered Sukhoi. Gary Weaver provided a fun demonstration of just how well

the 48-in. wingspan E-flite® P-38 F-5E Lightning 400 ARF flies. Let me tell you this model sounded great because of its twin-motor power. Then too, Paul Egan flew his large-scale twin-motor electricpowered Aero-Commander 500A Shrike. If you ever got to see Bob Hoover fly his full-scale Shrike you know what an impressive airplane it is. The model was just as impressive to see in flight as that of the full-scale aircraft. The sound of the motors in sync was just amazing. For me, however, the standout of the noontime demonstrations was Steve Trackwell’s 110-in. wingspan, Moki radial-engine-powered Composite ARF F4U-1D Corsair. Not only did this model sound good, it flew fantastic. From the retractable gear coming up in scale fashion and the flaps slowing it for landing, the Corsair was a head turner. Moreover, Steve is an excellent pilot, so from wheels up to touch down the airplane was flown like a scale model must be. Again, the sound of the Moki engine doing its doppler shift on flyby was fantastic.

e Steve Trackwell’s 110-in wingspan Composite ARF F4U-1D does a low flyby for the crowd during the Saturday afternoon’s.

Gary Weaver’s 48-in. wingspan E-flite P-38 was flown during the noontime break in the action, as were many other non-Cub models.

This DLE 111-powered PAU Extra 300SD 3D machine was also flown by Joshua Pulsipher. He is giving everyone a hover demostration, with some torque rolling too.

Joshua Pulsipher flew this nicely detailed Sukhoi for some knifeedge passes down the runway, which added the fun of the event.

Pual Egan flew this gorgeous twinmotor, electric-powered AeroCommander Shrike during Friday and Saturday’s noontime break— very impressive in flight!

RC-SF.COM

CUBS N’ COUSINS adopted this fun fly format because it is just a ton of fun to be part of and to fly your models at such an event. What you will get if you come to 2014 Cubs n’ Cousins in Othello, Washington is a welcome from a group of pilots that are simply a superb bunch of guys—super as in Super Cub, you get it? Bring a friend or two to Othello and I’ll see you there. 26

Friday night the sunset was

25 just spectacular. In this

photo a Multiplex Solius is being flown. There is lots of room for aircraft of all kinds to be flown at Weaver’s airfield. The owner of the airfield,

26 Gary Weaver, is shown

here flying his Multiplex Fun Cub. His model sported a hopped up motor and flaps. He flew it in the noontime contest. On my way home, my day

27 was made because this

turbine-powered Cessna Ag Wagon crop duster was doing some spraying of a corn field next to the road, so I snapped a few shots.

RC SPORT FLYER — NOVEMBER 2013

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BRISTOL BEAUFIGHTER I

n the last few issues I’ve written about concept and design, as well as the construction of my scratch-built, 1/5-scale Bristol Beaufighter. Last month’s article covered molding the numerous fiberglass parts and resin cast parts. In this month’s article I’ll show you how I designed and fabricated the landing gear and the unique exhausts.

LANDING GEAR AND EXHAUSTS

LANDING GEAR

2 I was fortunate to have access to a fullscale Beaufighter. Here is a picture of the full-scale aircraft’s landing gear, with a dressmaker’s ruler taped to the strut for reference.

Typical of the mess I found inside the full-scale aircraft in the Canadian Aviation Museum in Ottawa, Canada. Even so, I was able to get valuable information and measurements for the landing gear mechanism.

4 The main landing gear lower assembly was created with the use of a computer aided design program. Here it is shown with most of the parts mated together as it would be in the 1/5-scale Beaufighter when it is finished.

Right from the initial stages of the Beaufighter project I knew the landing gear would be a challenge to recreate. Actually that is one of the reasons why I tackled the Beaufighter’s build. For me, designing and building scale models is all about trying new things and learning new skills. At first glance, the Beaufighter’s main gear looks similar to that of the C-47 or DC-3, with two shock struts on either side of a large wheel and a drag brace extending rearward to absorb the loads. The initial concern I had with building this

RC SPORT FLYER — NOVEMBER 2013

All the individual pieces for the main landing gear’s lower assembly are laid out and ready to be bolted together. The oleo tubes are stainless steel to prevent galling the aluminum as the struts absorb the loads on landing.

BRISTOL BEAUFIGHTER gear was the steep angle of the drag braces. I was concerned that their assembly would not be strong enough for a model of this size. However, I figured that it obviously worked on the full-scale airplane, so it would be okay for my model. As it turns out, my fears were unfounded; the whole assembly is very strong and robust. I began designing the gear after lofting the plans. Again, wanting to challenge myself and to learn something new, I chose to use computer aided design (CAD) for creating the design. Unfortunately, I knew nothing about CAD, so I had to teach myself how to use the program. The software I used is very powerful. Parts and assemblies can be drawn in three dimensions and even put into motion to check if the final assembly will work. This proved to be a real advantage because, as I

was to find out, the Beaufighter’s gear is nowhere near as simple as that of the DC-3’s. You see, there is a lot of “monkey motion” buried inside the nacelles that ensures when the gears are down they stay locked against collapse. I studied drawings and sketches of the Beaufighter from aircraft manuals. Then too, I needed to study how the full-scale aircraft’s landing gear worked. Fortunately, there is a Beaufighter in the Canadian Aviation Museum in Ottawa, Canada, which is about a day’s drive from my home. After calling ahead and making an appointment, I paid the museum a visit. The museum is now in the process of restoring the aircraft, but when I visited I found the airplane in pretty bad shape. The airframe had been stored outside for many

years, so in addition to having a lot of corrosion, the birds had made a real mess of its inside. One look up in the nacelle confirmed my suspicions that the British designers had not subscribed to the KISS principle. I soon realized why the drag braces are at such a steep angle; the main wheel is so big that it takes up at least two thirds of the nacelle when retracted. The strut gets retracted by a long-stroke hydraulic cylinder that extends to the very top of the nacelle. The body of the actuator is supported by two arms attached to a spanwise torque tube that puts pressure on the over-center down locks. The rod of the cylinder does the work to raise and lower the gear. It’s quite an ingenious setup and it is amazing how compact the whole assembly is when retracted inside the nacelle.

The strut brace support pieces were CNC milled from solid aluminum bar stock then fitted to the shock struts to form the landing gear’s lower assembly.

These are the parts for the large pneumatic actuator. I checked the tolerances needed for the O-rings, designed them, machined them, then went on faith that they would not leak. So far so good.

8 This photo shows the steel die used to make the pivot plates along with the final part after the flanged edges have been formed.

The steel tubes were aligned and then clamped in a simple jib prior to brazing on the pivot plates. The process looks somewhat messy until the finished parts are bead blasted. RC-SF.COM

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Here is the lower end of the support frame after the pivot plate has been brazed on and bead blasted. The doubler plates are visible here as well.

11 This is a close up shot of the torque tube and the large air cylinder supported by the torque tube arms. This replicates the full-scale aircraft mechanics and ensures a positive down lock on the drag braces.

While studying the prototype, I took a lot of pictures and made numerous sketches with measurements. Frequently I’ll tape a dressmaker’s tape measure to an area before photographing it. This gives me an accurate scale of the part’s size when I’m scaling it down. After I got my head around how it all worked, I started designing the gear in fifth scale. Unfortunately I couldn’t simply scale down the full size because I would be using a much larger diameter pneumatic cylinder instead of hydraulic actuator used on the prototype. I thought about using hydraulics but quickly discounted this idea because of the need to disconnect the lines to remove the wings. I also considered using an electric jack screw but this was not a viable option because of the tight 32

The two main gear support frame assemblies are shown here in primer. These were bolted to the wheel well and engine support ribs in the inboard section of the wing.

RC SPORT FLYER — NOVEMBER 2013

The drag braces have these fittings at the pivot points to make sure there is an over-center lock when the gear is in its down position.

clearances inside the nacelle. Note that most of the lower structure of the main landing gear is aluminum while the entire support framework hidden in the airplane’s nacelles are brazed-together, 3/8-in.square Chromalloy tube. I turned the two shock absorber struts by hand on my lathe. However, the parts used to connect the struts needed to be shaped on a CNC milling machine. Fortunately a good friend of mine owns a small CNC mill and offered to machine these parts for me. This is where CAD design really pays off. It is relatively easy to import the CAD-derived parts into the CNC mill’s program to determine the tool paths. Then too, the lower strut assembly is bolted together and then secured tight with green Loctite

Retaining Compound. Brazing the upper assembly together was an interesting project. I considered welding the steel together but after some research, I found that silver brazing was much easier and just as strong. For this, I used a special type of silver braze, different from what we typically use. The process uses a thin brazing wire that is 99 percent pure silver, along with a special paste flux. I used a mini oxygen/acetylene torch that I purchased from Harbor Freight. The flux and the brazing wire are available at any welding supply store. To hold the parts in place while brazing I made a simple fixture from a sheet of plywood and some nails. The result looked pretty messy, with a lot of slag, but a bead blaster cleaned it up nicely.

BRISTOL BEAUFIGHTER

14 Looking into the main gear wheel well shows the large pneumatic cylinder and the typically British retraction mechanism. The “porcupine’ exhaust is visible at the bottom.

It is amazing how compact the main landing gear is when it is retracted. Here the entire assembly is mounted on a mock-up of the wing section to check the clearances.

The tail wheel assembly in pieces. Every effort was made to make the unit as lightweight as possible, but still strong and durable so that it can withstand takeoffs and landings.

16 15

Fabricating the pivot plates at the front lower points of the upper assembly was a bit tricky. For this, I made a die from a thick steel plate in the shape of the pivot plate to configure the flanged edges. I then cut the plates to shape from thin, 0.0020in. sheet steel. I clamped these onto the die and hammered the edges to a radius. Finally, I added some extra stiffening plates then brazed these to the framework. The tailwheel provided another challenge. The tail wheel retracts forward into a recess in the fuselage. Fortunately the recess has no doors. Once again, the problem was to keep the aircraft’s tail as light as possible. From experience, I knew that the entire assembly would have to be strong enough to take the landing and takeoff loads. FOLLOW US ON TWITTER @RCSPORTFLYER

The completed tailwheel assembly is ready to be installed in the airplane at this point. The “L” shaped arms are what actuates the retraction mechanism and duplicates the full-scale landing gear’s action.

As with the main gear, I studied the tail wheel of the fullscale Beaufighter. I found that the mechanism is basically a block sliding on a rod that is attached to the shock strut. I designed the assembly for the model to duplicate this mechanical action. Having the heavy, aluminum air cylinder that would mount in the airplane’s tail would be counter productive to keeping the tail lightweight. So I opted to use a large Nyrod that runs the length of the fuselage and connects to the cylinder in the forward fuselage area. As I explained earlier, the gear’s system consumes a lot of air. So, at first, I mounted the retract valve in the forward fuselage. In that location the gear moved very slowly because the air had to travel so far out to the

actuators in the nacelles. To alleviate this problem I changed the setup by mounting a separate valve in each wing, each with a dedicated servo. This has worked perfectly. The mains’ gear doors proved to be one of the most difficult parts

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of the entire project. The full-scale aircraft’s gear door mechanism does not use any rods or actuators. Instead, a series of cables, rub rails, and springs pulls the doors closed as the wheel retracts. Again the lack of space in the nacelle meant that I would have to copy the prototype. At first I tried using bungees to keep tension on the cables to close the doors. Unfortunately, the force

required to keep the doors closed was too much for the struts to push them open. So I had to find a way to release the tension on the cables so that when the gear came down, the doors would open easily. The fullscale Beaufighter used a series of levers and springs but replicating it would be a nightmare on the model because of the tight confines of the nacelles. After a lot of thought, I

found the solution. I installed two, long-stroke canopy cylinders in each nacelle, one for each door cable. The doors still require springs and pulleys but these were routed along the sides of the nacelles. The air lines to the cylinders are set up so that when the gear is selected down, the cylinder releases the tension on the door cables allowing the strut to open the doors. When the gear comes up, the cables are pulled taut and the doors close tightly.

EXHAUSTS

An interesting and distinctive feature of the Beaufighter is the exhaust stacks that are mounted down the outside of each cowl and nacelle. The louvers, or “porcupines” as they are called, act as flame dampers on the prototype. I felt that I could not go to all the trouble of building this airplane to exact scale and not include the “porcupine” exhausts. And, this was one of the last parts I built before painting and

17 The tapered exhaust tube was clamped to the milling machine with this fixture so that the slotted exhaust holes could be milled out accurately.

This picture illustrates the process used to form the louvers from the raw sheet steel pieces, to the finished parts trimmed to shape and ready to be brazed onto the tapered exhaust stacks.

The punch and die were clamped in a vise to hold them steady while the red hot steel sheet was hammered into shape.

20 A pair of mufflers is brazed prior to bead blasting. The lower one still needs to be brazed together at its middle seam.

RC SPORT FLYER — NOVEMBER 2013

BRISTOL BEAUFIGHTER weathering the model. There was not room for in-cowl mufflers because the BME 102 twincylinder engines were too big. So I opted to make the exhaust stacks functional. They therefore became another brazing project. They turned out much better than I had expected. The portion on the exhaust inside the cowl was made from thin-wall stainless tubing that was brazed together as I did on my Wyvern. The external tapered exhaust stack was formed from a 1-1/2-in.-diameter steel tube that I cut a wedge-shaped segment out of and then brazed the seam back together. I then mounted this tapered tube to a fixture that clamped to my milling machine. Next, I cut out all 46 slots. Then I made a punch and die to shape

the louvers. Each louver was then brazed onto the tapered Chromalloy steel tube over the slotted holes. I had calculated the respective areas of the engine’s exhaust ports and louver holes and determined that there was plenty of exit area in the exhausts. I wasn’t sure how effective the system would be at damping the engine noise. Again, it all worked out okay; the engine noise is slightly louder than a canister muffler but sounds just about right for this big, pugnacious, twin-engine warbird.

DONE

Fabricating the landing gear and exhaust systems were certainly tasks I was glad complete. As we saw in the construction article, the completed main landing gear upper support assemblies were used to align the

wheel wells and engine support ribs, in the wing, during the aircraft’s framing stages. In service, after close to 80 flights, my Beaufighter’s landing gear has performed flawlessly. The only problem encountered with the exhaust systems is the spray of oil on the wing and flaps. I prefer to think of this as natural weathering rather than a problem. Next time we’ll look at painting, finishing and weathering the model. For that stage I got some help from one of the great masters in scale detail. To finish up this series, in the final article, I’ll detail for you the initial test flights and preparing it for the Top Gun competition. It was a nail biter right down to the wire.

21 The finished exhaust system is shown here bolted to the BME 102 engine. There isn’t much room available under the cowl so the system is quite compact.

A close-up photo of the finished exhaust stack shows it is functional and replicates that of the full-scale aircraft’s, complete with flame damper louvers. I haven’t yet fired it up at night to see if they really work.

23 Will the Beaufighter make another greaser landing? I hope so, but if not, the strong and durable landing gear can handle the bumps.

The Beaufighter is captured here on short final for landing, with full flaps deployed and the landing gear down and locked.

RC-SF.COM

BY Jeff Troy

COVERING THE DALLAIRE SPORTSTER

YOU KNOW, THE WING IS THE THING!

covered the empennage of my 108-in. Dallaire Sportster in the October 2013 issue of RC Sport Flyer. Before covering the tail parts, four large pieces of covering were cut away from my 15-ft roll of Super Coverite. These were set aside to be used for the wing. Get those

pieces out now, because we’ll cover the wing now. The Dallaire Sportster has an undercamber airfoil, which means that the lower outline of the ribs carries an inward curve. Undercamber surfaces can be somewhat difficult to cover because

2 Begin the covering process for the Dallaire Sportster’s undercamber wing at the root of the wing. Iron down a small portion of the covering to either the main spar or the sub spar. The sub spar is shown here.

Pull the material gently toward the wing tip, and iron down a portion of the material to the same spar at the tip. Again, the sub spar is shown. Repeat these two steps for the main spar, being careful not to shrink the areas of covering between the spars.

4 Pick a rib near the center of the wing panel and iron down the covering along the edge of that rib between the main and sub spars. Again, be careful not to shrink the material between the spars.

of this. If the covering is pulled or shrunk too tightly without being secured to the rib edges, the covering can pull away from the ribs, dramatically altering the airfoil and destroying the flight characteristics that were designed into the model. Although undercamber surfaces

RC SPORT FLYER — NOVEMBER 2013

Move to the next rib on either side of the first rib, and iron down the material along the edge of the rib between the spars. Repeat this step for all the ribs in the panel.

COVERING THE DALLAIRE SPORTSTER can be difficult, the combination of high-quality fabric covering and the application method I will detail will remove the difficulty factor from the procedure. You will cover that beautiful undercamber, and retain all the Dallaire Sportster’s capacity for long, graceful and lofty classic flight. The October installment explained my “four corners” method of pulling and stretching the covering material. In almost every situation, I believe it to be the best way to ensure that a model’s covering goes on tight and stays tight for decades. The exception—and there is always an exception—is the undercamber surface. If you stretch the material tightly before ironing it down at each of the four corners of an undercamber surface, the covering will be suspended away from the inward curvature of the ribs, and nearly impossible to iron down to

the rib edges. Of course, I have a solution. Clear your workbench and plug in your iron. Somewhere in the range of 225 degrees Fahrenheit is a good starting point for most high-strength fabric coverings. Vacuum that big wing to remove any accumulated sanding dust or debris, then wipe it down with a tack cloth to ensure that the last of the dust is gone. Now lay the wing upside down on the bench with one end hanging over the end of the bench. Lay one piece of wing covering over the wing panel in front of you, smoothing it with both hands to get it centered over the open structure. Starting at the root end of the wing, iron down approximately 1 in. of material to the main spar. Pull the other end of the material snugly but not too tightly toward the tip, and iron down another inch of material to the main spar at the tip. Now you

can repeat the process for the sub spar, first ironing the material down at the root, and then at the tip. Be careful to iron only the 1-in. spots of material onto the spars but not between them, which might cause the material to begin shrinking before you’re ready to have it do so. Positioning the iron to touch only the edges of the ribs and not the open spaces between them, press the iron down and iron a 1-in. spot of covering to the center of one rib edge between the main spar and the sub spar. Repeat this for each of the ribs in the panel. Now, one rib at a time, working from the center of the rib to the main spar, and from the center of the same rib to the sub spar, iron down the material to all of the rib edges between the spars. Be especially careful to shrink the covering as little as possible between the ribs.

6 Iron one end of the covering to the trailing edge at the wing tip, then at the wing root. Now (shown here), divide by half and iron down a section of the trailing edge near the middle of the wing panel. Pull the covering tightly before touching it with the iron.

Now repeat the previous step for the leading edge, sealing the covering first at the tip, then at the root, and finally near the middle of the leading edge. Again, always pull material tight before ironing it down.

8 Continue to divide by half, by half, and by half again until you’ve sealed the covering along the entire length of the leading edge.

The trailing edge is next: divide by half repeatedly until the covering is sealed along the entire trailing edge.

RC-SF.COM

9 Seal the covering to the center-section sheeting at the wing root. Note the wrinkles still in the covering because I have not yet tried to shrink the material. You can also pull and seal the covering around the wing tip.

11 This is a tight shot of the CA bead along the undercamber portion of one of my Dallaire Sportster’s many wing ribs.

What you’ve just done has sealed the covering to the rib edges in the undercamber area of the wing panel. Once complete, you are free to pull and stretch the material forward and iron it to the leading edge, and rearward to iron it to the trailing edge. Do this using my “divideby-half ” method, which also was explained in the October issue. Continue the panel application process by pulling and stretching the material around the Dallaire’s wing tip, and ironing it down with my divide-by-half method. Repeat this for the wing root. Complete the panel application by ironing the material down to the center-section sheeting at the wing root, and along the entire length of the main spar and the sub spar, and to each rib edge from the main spar to the leading edge and the sub spar to the trailing edge. 38

With the perimeter of the wing panel sealed and the covering ironed down to the rib edges but not yet shrunk tight, flip the wing over and apply a bead of thin CA along both sides of each rib. Use a thin applicator tip if you have one.

RC SPORT FLYER — NOVEMBER 2013

When the CA has cured, flip the wing upside down again and iron the covering firmly to the rib edges between the sub spar and the trailing edge, and between the main spar and the leading edge.

Use the iron to work the covering around the perimeter of the wing panel to approximately 1/4-in. past the centerline. Get a new No. 11 blade into your hobby knife and trim the excess material all around the panel, using the leading and trailing edge as straightedges to ensure a dead-straight cut. You can use the same principle to trim the material away from the wing tip, although the tip isn’t straight so you’ll have to employ a bit of personal artistry to cut the line neatly. With the panel covered, flip the wing right side up and get your favorite brand of thin cyanoacrylate (CA) glue. If you have thin applicator tips, fit one onto the CA bottle. If you don’t have these tips, please consider buying them. The applicator tips from Bob Smith Industries (BSI) cost roughly one dollar for six, and

other CA manufacturers have them as well. They are a wise investment. With the thin applicator tip attached, or the CA bottle tilted only slightly to prevent releasing too much liquid, apply a bead of thin CA along the joint between the covering and the edge of the wing ribs on both sides of each rib. This won’t be necessary for the rib edges between the main spar and the leading edge, or those between the sub spar and the trailing edge, but these adhesive beads are a critical necessity between the main and sub spars. They are what will hold the covering securely to the undercamber of the ribs during and after the shrinking process. Do not use accelerator on the bead lines; allow the glue to set on its own. When the CA has thoroughly set, flip the wing back over and shrink the material with the iron set to between

COVERING THE DALLAIRE SPORTSTER

14 Shrinking the material at the wing tip is easier. The undercamber becomes less of an issue because of the tip curvature. With the underside of the panel completed, you can now cover the bottom of the opposite panel.

Now, with your iron set between 225 and 250 degrees Fahrenheit, shrink the covering between the ribs in the undercamber bays. Don’t be tempted to work at higher temperatures. You’ll hate yourself if the covering pulls away from the ribs.

16 Cut the root end of both pieces of top material to match the curvature of the center section. This seam will show, so make the cuts conform accurately. Covering one panel at a time, use the four corners method to apply the top fabric.

225 and 250 degrees Fahrenheit. You can increase the temperature in the convex areas, but keep it low in the concave undercamber area between the main spar and sub spar. Even with the CA beads applied, you shouldn’t risk pulling the covering away from the rib edges. With one side of the wing’s lower surface covered and neatly shrunk, you can repeat each of the previous steps to cover the opposite lower wing panel. You will repeat most of these steps again for the top side of the wing, although there will be a few exceptions. The center-section seam on top will show when the model is finished, so you won’t want the joint between the right and left panels to be jagged. Do your best to cut a neat line at the root edges of the upper covering material, and try to keep the overlap to 1/2 in. or less. That’s the FOLLOW US ON TWITTER @RCSPORTFLYER

Continue the four corners process by pulling and stretching the material toward the opposite corner—the trailing edge at the tip. Pull it tightly and iron down that second corner.

first exception. The second is more obvious. The top of the wing has no undercamber, so there will be no beads of CA added to secure the covering. Besides, with the bottom of the wing already covered, there would be no means of access to apply the beads. The final exception is that my standard “four corners” method of applying the top panel coverings should be used. Instead of beginning with ironing the covering to the spars, your model’s four corners will be 1) the leading edge at the wing root, 2) the trailing edge at the tip, 3) the trailing edge at the root, and 4) the leading edge at the wing tip. After that, use the divide-by-half method to secure the covering all around the perimeter of the wing. Pull the covering around the entire perimeter of the wing, sealing

it down so it overlaps the bottom covering by approximately 1/4 in. Trim away the overlap with a fresh No. 11 blade, and then seal the edge with the iron. Work carefully from side to side as you seal the edge. Pulling with an upward or downward motion of the iron can cause the edge of the fabric to fray, and although it can be removed with a sharp blade and modeling diligence, it is best if it never frays at all. Shrink the top covering with the iron set anywhere up to 325 degrees Fahrenheit, but keep those high temperatures away from the undercamber areas of the lower covering. Also avoid the use of excessive temperatures near the upper, center-section seam, which could separate if overheated. Well, that’s it for this build installment. My Dallaire Sportster’s RC-SF.COM

COVERING THE DALLAIRE SPORTSTER empennage and that great-big wing are covered and ready for trim colors and sealing. In the next build, I will show you how to cover the Dallaire’s fuselage. Three sides are relatively square, but the bottom is rounded

with the landing gear legs protruding. More tricks? Count on it. Please be here. Many of the techniques I describe in my “Building Model Airplanes” series for RC Sport Flyer are

demonstrated in other installments. If you need back issues, or for reference, point your browser at rcsf.com/pdfs.

Final Print size: 6’ x 3’

18 The third corner is the trailing edge at the wing root. Pull and stretch, and iron down corner three.

20 Use my divide-by-half method to seal the covering around the wing tip, then the wing root. Then shrink the covering, and repeat these steps for the opposite top panel. The covering must around the entire perimeter of the wing, overlapping the bottom covering by at least 1/4 in. Trim the excess and seal the edges tightly.

The wing tip at the leading edge is corner four. Pull, stretch and iron down that fourth corner.

RC SPORT FLYER — NOVEMBER 2013

The wing and tail surfaces of my Shive Specialties 108-in. Dallaire Sportster are now covered, shrunk tightly, and ready for trimming and sealing. In the next installment, I’ll cover the big Dallaire fuselage. That component has three nearly flat sides, but the bottom is rounded with the main landing gear legs and tail skid protruding.

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BY Robert J. Caso

1/5-SCALE COCKPIT

AN OPPORTUNITY TO BUILD FOR THE BEST

Here is the underbelly opening— the bottom of the cockpit tub can be seen installed underneath from this perspective, but is actually above the servos.

hen Dave Wigley asked if I would help him with the cockpit for his original design of a Bristol Beaufighter Mk.X in 1/5 scale, I jumped at the chance. It was not without risk. Dave’s models are world class and, as such, doing a cockpit for one was a bit of the proverbial “double-edged sword.” Having done only one other largescale cockpit, I wanted the learning experience because my models are getting larger. On the other hand, Dave’s project had better be a good one. It was amusing when Dave later confided that he was worried that the cockpit would be better than the rest of the model, with me—during the process—thinking just the opposite. I first saw the Beaufighter when it was about 70 percent complete— the airframe was primed with most of the systems fitted, but it was not externally finished and painted. Seeing the model in this stage confirmed my fears as to just how good of a 42

RC SPORT FLYER — NOVEMBER 2013

builder Dave is, the inside being as perfect as the outside. Dave gave me a prototype tub that fit the model, templates for the consoles and instrument panel, and a few reference books. I was then completely on my own. While I work in 2D CAD and have a laser cutter, there was still a ton of modeling at hand. Like many multi-engine, WWII warbirds, the Beaufighter’s cockpit appears to be sprinkled with afterthoughts, having gauges, knobs, boxes, switches, panels, levers, buttons, wires, cables and tubes all over the place. Plus, being a single seater, everything, including the pilot, was compressed into a relatively small area. And then there is the issue of versions, of which there were many, to the point that I almost didn’t know what I was looking at. So, where to start?

DIVING IN

The place to start is to become a student of the real airplane, which

is much of the fun anyway, if you’re a “rivet counter” like me. I spent a couple of days looking at the various drawings and photos before ever designing or cutting any of the components so I could get a conceptual idea of how I wanted to tackle this thing. Since the job was complicated by the model being 150 miles away, I first replicated Dave’s tub, the consoles and the instrument panel in CAD, thus establishing my “no-fly zone” boundaries outside of which no detail could stray. He had also presented me with some 1/5-scale gauges which were nice, but were a tiny bit too large in diameter. In such a compressed environment, a tiny bit is a lot, so I had to work around this while still maintaining a high degree of scale trueness. A primary goal was to make this thing easily removable to allow access to systems, yet easy for me to work on, detail and paint. Dave really made things easy for me as he equipped the model with a giant,

1/5-SCALE COCKPIT 3

4 2

The tub was faced with .010-in. plastic sheet, which eliminates having to fill and finish wood grain, and it accepts paint nicely.

The in-process tub and side consoles are all held together with magnets and located with 1/8-in., hard dowel pins.

The sidewall instruments and equipment are quite noticeable on the finished model and so should be detailed accordingly.

The aft bulkhead prior to painting. Note that the split was camouflaged by the framework, offsetting it to the right.

sliding, lower-fuselage nose section that permits access to the model’s equipment from the bottom. I therefore designed the cockpit in separate, removable components that could be mocked up outside of the aircraft and installed through the canopy area. The tub’s base would not have a lot of “stuff ” hanging off it and therefore would be easily installed first—likewise for the aft bulkhead. The more complicated console/sides FOLLOW US ON TWITTER @RCSPORTFLYER

would attach to the base with pins and magnets and these would be affixed with screws to the model. The control column, seat and aft tubular frame would then be installed from above, with the instrument panel going in last.

PROPORTIONAL ACCURACY

As noted, there is so much “stuff ” in this and many other WWII cockpits, it’s almost dizzying. Even more complicating is the fact that I had no scale dimensions for anything and it was critical to get the components to make sense proportionally. I did much of this using a 2D CAD program which helped immensely in the layout and with the proportioning. I started with the instrument panel since I had many of the gauges and a template already sized to fit the model. Laying these out first

helped me eyeball the rest of the items that had to be scratch built. For the consoles, I did essentially the same by drawing rectangular outlines representing the various panels and equipment, using photos to get the relationships and proportions reasonably correct. I had a 1/5-scale pilot on hand that helped me view the components against what would be “known” dimensions, such as arms and hands. I also made a table converting popular dimensions that I normally use in my drawings to reallife dimensions. For example, 1.00 inch in 1:1 is .20 inches in fifth scale. Remember, however, that dimensional accuracy is not really needed— proportional accuracy is the key and will generally get you close to the proper dimensions, but I used the table as a check.

COCKPIT EQUIPMENT

The specific procedures to tackle RC-SF.COM

much of this are provided in my twopart “Cockpit” series in the January and February 2013 issues of RC-SF. Here, I will focus on those items idiosyncratic to the Beaufighter. One thing to be careful of is not bothering to model things that cannot be seen once everything is installed. For example, I spent a lot of time designing and fabricating the seatheight-adjusting mechanism to the left of the seat and it cannot be seen with the pilot in place. However, Dave and I know it’s there! In general, I used a ton of plastic sheet, rod and tube in all the components for the cockpit. Virtually all of the visible areas were faced with ABS sheet affixed with cyanoacrylate (CA) glue. For example, boxes were made using blocks of balsa having strips of ABS wrapped around their perimeter. Their edges were sanded flush and then the two larger sides were faced. The process here was generally the same regardless of the shape of the component. For the map case, it has to look like it works, but it doesn’t

The bulkhead door latch needed to be removable to install the bulkhead halves—magnets were used here.

The canopy emergency release is another prominent feature on the finished model. I wouldn’t let Dave talk me out of doing this detail!

Most of the console panels’ nomenclature was engraved, however placards can easily be typed in CAD and simply printed.

The rudder pedals are a light plywood core-faced with .010-in. plastic. Foot rests for these were later made from serrated nyrod sections.

RC SPORT FLYER — NOVEMBER 2013

have to actually work. I simply faced a piece of 3/16-in. balsa cut into the proper shape, but extended the plastic facing vertically to form an open end. The leather cover was made from fabric store vinyl, and a folded, scaled-down map of Europe printed from an Internet site completed the illusion. The instruments on the vertical sides of the cockpit just below the canopy turned out to be a noticeable feature once installed in the model. Photos show these having tons of wires emanating from below and then floating off to “who knows where” through the aft bulkhead. The challenge here was to make them convincing, while still allowing them to be removable. I used various diameters of painted solder for the wiring looms—heavy, but Dave said he needed the nose weight. The solder-wire looms were then joined

1/5-SCALE COCKPIT and terminated in plastic tubes that, in turn, get plugged into the aft bulkhead, thus looking like they actually run through it. Ah yes, the aft bulkhead. While there are a few photos showing portions of it, these were of the wrong version and of restorations that had most of the equipment removed. Views forward from the gunner’s seat are available, but the only information I gleaned from these was that the bulkhead had doors. So I had to take an educated guess here at what this thing looked like from the cockpit side and do something that simply looked right, even if not completely accurate. Also, this detail had to be done in halves for it to be

removable, splitting vertically. Again using templates that fit the model, I made the basic parts from 1/8-in. light plywood faced with ABS, but then applied a faced overlay of 1/64in. plywood for the riveted sections to give the part some visual interest. Since the part splits on its centerline at the doors, I used the overlay to avoid a continuation of the vertical seam that would have been quite obvious once installed in the model. I used the laser to engrave blackpainted white plastic to generate nomenclature, but the words themselves were simply typed in CAD using the “Text” feature. Send your placards to Callie Graphics (callie-graphics.com) and you will get

stick-on decals in about a week. Or do them in PowerPoint and print them. I did the same for some of the gauges, since the 1/5-scale kits for British WWII aircraft are somewhat incomplete. The control wheel is comprised of four layers of 1/16-in. hard plywood, initially cut on a laser, but then shaped with a Dremel tool and, you guessed it, a giant belt sander. With the whole thing thin-CA glued, I sanded it with 150- and 220-grit sandpaper and applied single-part autobody filler. I had a bit of a “love-hate” relationship with the 1/5-scale screws. They look nice, but drop one on your table after cutting it free

11 10

13 is the seat’s adjusting handle— 12 Here weather black areas with a grayish-

blue mix of artist’s oils.

seat frame’s plan was 10 The drawn in CAD, and then sections of plastic tube were cut and assembled over this.

shot of the many screw heads 11 A used on the instrument panel, many of which had to be countersunk.

in-process “mock up” of some 13 An of the details for fitting purposes. Use a “building block” approach with large jobs such as this.

RC-SF.COM

1/5-SCALE COCKPIT

14 15

16 The seat was also made to be removable

14 for ease of installation, which allows the

components to be replaced if necessary. The aft bulkhead’s parting seam is all

15 but invisible once installed and it is

attached to the fuselage from behind. A heater tube eventually occupies the

16 large cavity in the lower left of the

photo—this was made from heated and bent plastic tube. On the commercially available harness

17 quick release, I replaced the weak plastic buckles with brass pieces.

If you look closely, you’ll see that the

18 cockpit’s various components can be broken down into relatively simple shapes.

RC SPORT FLYER — NOVEMBER 2013

and it blends in perfectly with shop dust. So, I worked with these over a clean sheet of white paper and used the point of a hobby knife to maneuver them around. Depending upon the piece of equipment, many of the screws required a counter-sunk hole and drilling these started to get monotonous after the hundredth one. There were a few warning lights of various colors and these were easy to do. A short section of plastic tube—painted to match the surrounding components on the outside, and red or whatever on the inside—prepped it for a blob of

five-minute epoxy in the center. Build the blob up a bit to a convex crosssection. Fanatics may further improve on this idea by gluing in a piece of fiber-optic cable behind the tube to light everything up for night missions. For me, this project was not a “job,” but an opportunity to work with and learn from a world-class scale modeler and to become more familiar with an airplane that I always liked, but never really knew much about. I love the history of WWII aircraft and the Beaufighter is now a few notches higher on my “85 favorite airplanes” list.

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BY Staff

GAS-TO- MIX RATIOS FOR TWO-STROKE ENGINES

GAS-TO- OIL MIX RATIOS FOR TWO-STROKE ENGINES IT’S ALL DONE IN THE CAN! Select the amount of gas, then use the column value for the correct amount of oil ( American & ml metric) Ratio (Gas to Oil) 16:1 20:1 32:1 40:1 50:1 100:1

1 Gallon 8.0 6.4 4.0 3.2 2.56 1.28

2 Gallons 16.0 12.8 8.0 6.4 5.12 2.56

3 Gallons 24.0 19.2 12.0 9.6 7.68 3.84

4 Gallons 32.0 25.6 16.0 12.8 10.24 5.12

5 Gallons 40.0 32.0 20.0 16.0 12.8 6.40

Ratio (Gas to Oil) 16:1 20:1 32:1 40:1 50:1 100:1

5 Liters 313 250 156 125 100 50

10 Liters 625 500 313 250 200 100

15 Liters 938 750 469 375 300 150

20 Liters 1250 1000 625 500 400 200

25 Liters 1563 1250 781 625 500 250

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RC SPORT FLYER — NOVEMBER 2013

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BY Daniel Holman

AEROBATICS PART 8 P-FACTOR/ASYMMETRIC BLADE EFFECT

When performing an upright harrier, only a very small amount of right rudder is required to compensate for Asymmetric Blade Effect.

Thanks to the precise, built-in right thrust, most well-designed aerobatic airplanes track very straight on takeoff. Even so, a small amount of right rudder is required to compensate for P-factor.

hope that the summer has enabled you to practice flying aerobatics as much as possible, building precision into your piloting as well as learning some exciting aerobatic maneuvers. In the last issue I explained some more of the fine points of precision aerobatics and also began to explain a couple of foundational 3D maneuvers and principles. As I outlined before, many 3D maneuvers are simply regular aerobatic maneuvers performed at slow airspeeds and with a high angle of attack. For the most part, airplanes fly better at moderate to high speeds because the wings and control surfaces are more efficient. When flying 3D maneuvers at or below the airplane’s stall speed, we all of a sudden have two more big factors to deal with. The first is that more control authority is required in every axis to fly the airplane. The second, which plays a big part in 3D flying, is P-factor. In this issue, we will examine the cause, effect and required corrections of this 50

RC SPORT FLYER — NOVEMBER 2013

challenging and intriguing aspect of flight.

WHAT IS P-FACTOR

P-factor, also known as Asymmetric Blade Effect (ABE), is the torque that the rotating propeller puts on the airplane. Airplanes with counter-rotating propellers or turbine jet engines do not have trouble with this effect, but every airplane with a single propeller will have some kind of propeller-induced

yaw, roll and pitch motions. First, let’s look at the basic principles of a propeller. A propeller is simply a purpose-designed screw that produces thrust when spinning. As the propeller spins, the blades act as wings, producing lift in the direction the airplane is pointing due to the propeller blades’ positive angle of attack as well as its airfoil. Every wing, no matter how well designed, will have some measurable amount of drag. This drag increases

AEROBATICS PART 8

With a relatively low angle of attack, very little left rudder is required to keep an inverted harrier straight.

exponentially as the wing’s angle of attack increases. As the drag increases, the induced torque motion on the airplane also increases, requiring opposite rudder and aileron control to keep the airplane flying in a straight line. Without a moving picture, this next principle can be difficult to understand, so read carefully and try to picture it. A regular propeller’s pitch does not change in flight. However, the angle of attack at which the blades meet the oncoming air changes drastically with the airplane’s airspeed. When flying at slow speeds, the propeller “bats” at the air much more than when flying at high speeds. When flying at high speeds, the propeller’s blades “unload” and efficiently “screw” through the air. Let me illustrate this with an example of swimming. Imagine that you are in a swimming pool being held to the wall. When you are not moving forward, performing a hard swim-stroke action is quite difficult. On the other hand, when you are moving quickly through the water, FOLLOW US ON TWITTER @RCSPORTFLYER

performing the same swim-stroke is much easier as your arms and hands become more efficient. At a certain throttle setting, the amount of energy produced should always remain the same. However, depending on the efficiency of the propeller at a given speed, some of that energy will induce torque on the airplane rather than produce useable thrust. A very important rule of thumb is this: The higher the ratio of propeller rpm to the airplane’s airspeed, the greater the torque factor (see graph). In other words, when flying with a low airspeed and a high-propeller rpm, the adverse torque induced on the airplane is greatest. For the same reason, when an airplane is flying at a high airspeed and the same or lowerpropeller rpm, the torque factor is greatly reduced. Now let’s look at two big effects that the propeller torque has on the airplane. As you can see in the picture, the air that the propeller pushes backward over the airplane does not move in a straight line.

Rather it moves in a spiral pattern around the airplane’s fuselage in the same direction that the propeller spins (clockwise). As the air spirals around and over the top of the airplane, it will put pressure on the left side of the vertical stabilizer, causing the airplane to yaw to the left. This effect is dampened with increased airspeed because the faster the airplane is traveling forward, the smoother the air flowing over the tail surfaces becomes. The second effect is the Asymmetric Blade Effect that occurs when the airplane is flying with a positive angle of attack that exceeds the pitch-angle of the airplane’s flightpath vector. When an airplane is flying in such attitudes, the angle of attack with which the right propeller blade meets the oncoming air is increased while the same angle is decreased on the propeller’s left blade. Because the propeller’s pitch is now greater on the right side than on the left, the propeller acts like a helicopter rotor that has been given a cyclic-control RC-SF.COM

input. In other words, the right side of the propeller produces more thrust than the left side. This in turn moves the center point of thrust from the center of the propeller to a point on the right portion of the propeller disk. With this offset or asymmetric thrust, a large yaw force is induced on the airframe. When flying in an upright attitude, right rudder is required to counter this effect. When inverted, left rudder is required instead.

During an inverted harrier, as the angle of attack increases, so must the left rudder.

APPLICATION

Now that we have gone over the cause and effect, let’s look at some of the maneuvers in which P-factor/ Asymmetric Blade Effect is most prevalent. Most of you have probably felt these effects from the very first time you flew an airplane because P-factor substantially affects the takeoff maneuver. The reason this is so is because the airplane has to accelerate to a speed at which it can lift off the ground. During this acceleration, the propeller’s rpm is generally quite high which makes for a high rpm-to-airspeed ratio. As soon as the airplane starts to roll forward, a fair amount of right rudder is required to keep it going straight on the runway. The necessary right rudder input quickly decreases as the airplane’s airspeed increases. In general, by the time the airplane reaches takeoff speed, very little if any rudder is required. Before going any further, I would like to mention that although singleengine, propeller-driven airplanes have to deal with this factor on takeoff, the extent to which they are affected by it varies greatly. In this series, we are talking primarily about well-designed, aerobatic airplanes. Most airplanes in this category have built-in right-thrust from the engine/ motor that helps dampen this effect to some extent. Because of the fact that the induced torque changes through the flight, no amount of right thrust will compensate in every aspect of flight. One of the most common aerobatic maneuvers that is affected by P-factor is the simple loop. On the first half of a loop, the throttle is 52

RC SPORT FLYER — NOVEMBER 2013

This shows the point at which Asymmetric Blade Effect is most prevalent. The airspeed is almost zero, but the airplane is not yet pointed vertically. As you can see, I am holding full left rudder to keep the airplane straight.

AEROBATICS PART 8

Induced Yaw Here you can see how the propeller pushes air over the airplane in a spiral pattern that eventually meets the left side of the vertical stabilizer. This effect produces a left yaw motion that must be countered with right rudder.

wide open and as the airplane slows, a touch of right rudder is required. The second half of the loop, however, should not require any rudder input to correct for P-factor. The maneuver in which Asymmetric Blade Effect is felt the strongest is the harrier that we discussed in the last issue. Once again, this is because the airplane’s angle of attack is significantly higher than its flight-path vector. This effect creates a fairly complicated case in the harrier maneuver because the control inputs required to correct the offset torque are different when the airplane is upright than when it is inverted. When upright, ABE yaws the airplane slightly to the left and requires a small amount of rightrudder correction. When inverted however, ABE yaws the airplane to the right. The reason that the airplane yaws to a different direction upright and inverted is actually very simple. Picture an airplane performing an upright harrier and then after a half roll, continuing on the same line in an inverted harrier. If you focus on the propeller disc, you will see that its angle of attack remains the same even though the airplane has rolled over. Because the angle of attack at which the propeller blades are encountering the oncoming air has not changed, the ABE will continue to work toward yawing the airplane in the same direction. The difference is simply the new, upside-down orientation of the control surfaces that require opposite inputs to hold the same heading. FOLLOW US ON TWITTER @RCSPORTFLYER

Slipstream

Let me illustrate this one more way. If you put your airplane into an upright harrier and do not correct for ABE with right rudder, the airplane will eventually complete a large left circle. If you roll the airplane over into an inverted harrier half way through this circle and do not correct with left rudder, the airplane will continue to follow the circular pattern because the propeller’s angle of attack has not changed. The second difference between performing a harrier upright and inverted is that the right thrust built into the airplane’s firewall helps to decrease the ABE when upright. Unfortunately, when flying inverted with a high angle of attack, this right thrust now works against the airplane’s flight path and in the same direction as ABE. For this reason, more left rudder is required to keep an inverted harrier straight than right rudder is required to keep an upright harrier straight. When transitioning from an inverted harrier to a hover, full left rudder is usually required to keep the airplane from yawing to the right immediately before its angle of attack reaches vertical.

Performing the harrier maneuver upright and inverted is not extremely difficult and I don’t want to give the wrong impression with the above explanation. Most of these effects are fairly small on well-designed aerobatic airplanes, but will always exist to some extent and should be understood.

TORQUE-SENSITIVE MANEUVERS

As you progress further into aerobatics, you will find that some maneuvers are easier to perform in a certain direction. This is once again due to P-factor/Asymmetric Blade

RC-SF.COM

AEROBATICS PART 8

Thrust Flight Direction

In this diagram, you can see how Asymmetric Blade Effect works. Because the right blade’s angle of attack is much greater than that of the left blade, the thrust point moves off to the right, yawing the airplane to the left.

Decreased angle of attack Increased angle of attack

In this graph, you can see where the required rudder correction is greatest. Notice that when propeller rpm is greatest, rudder input must be at its maximum too and vice versa for airspeed.

Effect. Here are some of the main, torque-sensitive maneuvers and their preferred directions: The precision spin can stall/break in both directions, but a left stall/ break is generally easier. During this maneuver, the propeller’s rpm is very low, but remember, so is the airspeed. Knife-edge spins can be performed in both directions as well, but can be more cleanly executed using left rudder. In the same way, gyroscopic tumbling maneuvers such as the crankshaft are better performed with left rudder. I will explain why this is in more detail later on in this series. It is preferable to do upright flatspins with left rudder control, while inverted flat spins are better with right. There are more torque-sensitive maneuvers that I could talk about, but those are some of the most common that you encounter.

Max

Propeller RPM

Min Max

Rudder input required (Right when upright, left when inverted in high alpha)

OVERVIEW

Overcoming P-factor/Asymmetric Blade Effect takes some practice and finesse, but before long you will be to the point where you won’t even think about correcting for it. One of the things that I love about aerobatics is that you can 54

RC SPORT FLYER — NOVEMBER 2013

Min Max

Min

use your imagination and invent new maneuvers and variations on old ones. There’s always something new to figure out and learn. Some effects like P-factor may seem to be a menace at times. On the other hand, it is exciting to take these effects and invent maneuvers in which they work to your benefit!

In the near future, I will write about and explain an exciting new maneuver that I invented that utilizes P-factor to enable my airplane to do something that I thought impossible until recently! The sky is the limit, so go have fun and practice!

1815 South Research Loop Tucson, Arizona 85710 Phone: (520) 722-0607 E-mail: info@desertaircraft.com Web Site: desertaircraft.com

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BY Lucidity, Roswell Flight Test Crew

THE DARK ART OF FPV FLYING S

FIRST-PERSON-VIEW FLYING IS TRANSFORMING THE RC WORLD

hrouded in controversy and beset by skeptics in the RC community and among lawmakers and government regulators, FPV flying is nonetheless the fastest growing segment of model aviation. Why? Because it’s so freakin’ cool! You see what the aircraft sees—in real time! You’re not watching from the outside any more, you’re actually flying from the pilot’s seat. Besides, opaque plastic goggles are a serious chick magnet! At the Roswell Flight Test Crew, we’ve been flying multi-rotors FPV for over two years now. We don’t claim to have done it first—or best. However, we have developed systems with a high degree of operational reliability, and we’ve had the good fortune to be able to use FPV to support activities that go well beyond recreational RC flying, such as: helping scientists study how to best restore native fish habitat and demonstrating remote sensing capabilities to firefighters and other first responders. My mission, in the next 2,000 words, is to explain how you can get in on the action…

anything below it) in jeopardy. It may seem quaint and a little out of date, but all remotely controlled aviation is still governed by Federal Aviation Administration Advisory Circular (AC) 91-57, written, believe it or not, all the way back in 1981. You can download a .pdf online. It’s a single page, so you can’t worm your way out of reading it by complaining that it’s long and complicated. For those of you who stopped using the Internet in order to thwart the NSA’s attempts to spy on you, here’s what it says, in brief: 1. Thou shalt not fly in populated areas, or over people or property on the ground that could be damaged if your aircraft falls out of the sky. 2. Thou shalt not invite people to come watch your cool new aircraft fly until you’ve tested it and you’re confident in its flight performance. 3. Thou shalt not fly above 400

feet above ground level (AGL). 4. Thou shalt not fly within three miles of an airport, without first notifying the airport manager, control tower or flight service station. 5. Thou shalt not fly close to manned aircraft, and you shall always give them the right of way. You already know this stuff, but it bears repeating here because, after strapping on the goggles, some people start feeling sort of invincible. I fell prey to that feeling myself when I was getting started. Safe FPV flying is disciplined FPV flying.

CAN YOU SPOT ME?

Safe FPV flight operations require a team of two: a pilot and a spotter. No spotter—no FPV. Period! A spotter is necessary to help the pilot maintain situational awareness. Gazing out the front of your aircraft with a camera that has a

SAFETY FIRST

If you’re reading this article, you’re probably already an RC pilot—and a safe one too, because you’re taking the time to keep up with the hobby by reading RC Sport Flyer. Flying FPV doesn’t confer upon you a special license to be any less safe. In fact, it demands that you put an even greater emphasis on safety, because there are basically twice as many systems that can fail and put your aircraft (as well as anyone or 56

RC SPORT FLYER — NOVEMBER 2013

Video goggles are not only the most immersive system for piloting an FPV aircraft, they also make a powerful fashion statement. Here, wearing a pair of Fat Shark goggles, Lucidity sports a look known as “the full Geordi La Forge.”

THE DARK ART OF FPV FLYING Flying FPV requires a team of two people: a pilot, who controls the aircraft while observing its flight on a screen or through a pair of video goggles, and a spotter, who keeps the aircraft in view and alerts the pilot to unseen hazards.

170-degree field of view may seem like the ultimate in situational awareness if you’re accustomed to flying “eyes-on” from the ground, but the truth is that it’s like looking at the world through a soda straw. You can’t see the tree that’s off to your left—the direction that the wind is carrying you, by the way—and you have no idea that you’re about to put a steel-reinforced concrete bridge piling between you and your aircraft, disrupting your control and video transmissions. The spotter is there to make you aware of these dangers. If you’re doing it right and you’ve got some experience as an FPV pilot, you’ll often be aware of hazards before your spotter calls them out. However, on those rare occasions when you aren’t, your spotter is the only one who’s going to prevent you from transforming your high-tech flying machine into a heap of broken parts. FOLLOW US ON TWITTER @RCSPORTFLYER

By the way, you’ll need to set aside your romantic notions of being the captain of the ship and all that nonsense: The spotter is actually the person running the show. If the spotter shouts “Stop, now!” you stop, now—no matter what you see through your goggles. Ideally, the spotter should be the most capable pilot on the team, but at a minimum must know how to fly. Under the most dire circumstances, the spotter may need to assume control of the aircraft and bring it home eyes-on. Also, the spotter’s experience and judgment as a pilot will translate directly into his or her ability to give meaningful guidance to the person wearing the goggles. Finally, being a spotter is a fulltime gig while the bird is in the air, and is incompatible with other activities, like eating a ham sandwich or texting your wife to say that you’re going to be home late. It

requires at least as much focus and discipline as piloting the aircraft. We very nearly found this out the hard way during a recent public flight demonstration. As usual, we were being swarmed by people anxious to take a look through our extra set of goggles and asking questions about how the system works. Techinstein was on the sticks and I was serving as the spotter—in addition to my duties in as a public relations specialist and crowd control supervisor. You don’t need to be clairvoyant to know what happened next… I got distracted for a few seconds and, when I looked back, I couldn’t find the aircraft. Unseen, it was drifting perilously close to the aforementioned steel-reinforced concrete bridge piling. Fortunately, Techinstein is a superb pilot who is also familiar with the location we were flying that day, and intuited the RC-SF.COM

peril he was facing without me having to prompt him. Afterward, we realized that we had just survived a close call without so much as scuffing the paint, so we decided to change the way we do business: We recruited some other local FPV enthusiasts to help us out at future public events.

(TX + RS) X 2 = FPV

Look under the hood of an FPVcapable RC aircraft and you’ll likely come away persuaded that setting up one of these systems is a formidable technical challenge. I’m not going to tell you that it’s easy, but it becomes much simpler when you realize that what you’re looking at isn’t one complex system—it’s actually two separate systems flying in close

formation, and you’re already very familiar with one of them. Conventional RC flying involves one transmitter and one receiver. You hold the transmitter in your hands and use it to give your aircraft control inputs. On board the aircraft, the receiver picks up the signals from your transmitter and passes along those inputs to servos and electronic speed controllers—and thus we achieve controlled, stable flight. At its most basic level, moving from conventional RC flying to FPV flying is simply a matter of adding another transmitter and another receiver into the mix, except that now the transmitter is on board the aircraft—sending out live video— and the receiver is on the ground, showing you that video in real time.

Easy, right? Maybe not so much… Just like regular RC flying, the theory is simple but there are a bunch of practical details to be resolved. The first one is, what frequency is your system going to use for your video transmission? You’ve got some options available: 900 MHz, 1.2–1.3 GHz, 2.4 GHz and 5.8 GHz. One of those should sound really familiar to you, unless you’ve been using the same radio for the past 25 years, and that’s 2.4 GHz—because it’s the current standard for hobby radios. Since having the control signal and the video signal stepping all over each other doesn’t sound like a formula for success, let’s set that one aside for the moment. Pro tip: People flying their model with Long-Range

The Roswell Flight Test Crew’s flagship FPV hexacopter, RQCX-3 “Raven,” equipped with a GoPro Hero2, a low-light board camera and a FLIR thermal imaging camera. The yellow dome enclosing the core systems is an upturned Rubbermaid bowl serving as a weatherproof housing.

HAM IT UP! To legally operate the video transmitters required for FPV flight operations, you must possess a valid amateur (ham) radio license, issued by the Federal Communications Commission. There are three levels of ham licenses available. “Technician” is the entry-level qualification, earned by successfully passing a 35-question test. “General” and “Amateur Extra” qualifications each require increasing levels of knowledge, demonstrated by passing additional tests. 58

RC SPORT FLYER — NOVEMBER 2013

The requirement to be proficient in Morse code to obtain a ham radio license was eliminated in 2007. There are many options available to help you prepare to earn your license. There are books and websites available for self-study, and many local radio clubs offer classes for beginners, often in conjunction with testing opportunities. The Amateur Radio Relay League (arrl.org) is a great source for additional information about amateur radio licensing.

THE DARK ART OF FPV FLYING Systems (LRS) will often use 2.4 GHz for video because their control signal goes out on 433 MHz, but that’s a discussion for another day. Next up, a warning about 900 MHz and 1.21.3 GHz: They work great for transmitting video, because the longer wavelength makes them less susceptible to occlusion by intervening objects. However, signals on those frequencies can interfere with GPS reception, so if you’re using a GPS receiver for return-to-home functionality or telemetry, proceed with caution.

some video to transmit, so you’re going to need a camera. There are basically two approaches to solving this problem: 1. Use a re-purposed security camera, also called a “board camera” because it is basically a lens mounted on a circuit board. These are relatively inexpensive, small and lightweight—all big pluses for anything you intend to mount on an RC aircraft, and they can be powered directly off of the model’s main battery; so as long as your bird

has power, so does your camera. Finally, many board cameras have interchangeable lenses, which also come cheap, so you can customize the field of view to your preference. The downside is that these units don’t have any built-in recording capability, so you can’t re-live your aerial adventures once “you” are back on the ground. 2. Use a sports camera, such as the GoPro® Hero® series, which can pass through live video. Compared to a board camera, they are expensive,

EYE IN THE SKY

Of course, a video transmitter won’t do you much good without

A GoPro® Hero® HD sports camera in its robust protective housing. Notice the hole drilled in the case to permit the live video feed cable to be connected to the video transmitter on board the aircraft. Warning: Do not use the housing for underwater video after making this modification.

Beneath its protective housing, the RQCX-3 “Raven” reveals an intricate web of interconnected components that make it capable of FPV flight operations. However, in spite of the seeming complexity, rigging up an RC aircraft for FPV is really just a matter of putting a camera and a video transmitter on board and adding a video receiver to your ground station.

A typical board camera, originally developed for use in security systems, along with a selection of compatible lenses. Small, lightweight and inexpensive, board cameras are a popular choice for FPV flying.

RC-SF.COM

THE DARK ART OF FPV FLYING

AMA, A-OK? There is a prevalent belief, even among many members of the Academy of Model Aeronautics, that the AMA prohibits FPV flying by its members and at its RC airfields. This is not true. The AMA’s rules for FPV flight operations are laid out in Document 550—available on the academy’s website—and they are actually among the most liberal of all national RC flying federations worldwide. In brief, Document 550 states that: 1. Novice FPV pilots shall fly using a “buddy box,” with a more experienced pilot available to take over and operate the aircraft “eyes-on,” if necessary. 2. All FPV pilots shall have a spotter alongside them, working as described in the article accompanying this sidebar. large and heavy—especially if you use them with their protective enclosures. Another potential disadvantage is that they are powered by internal batteries, which can run down independently of your main flight battery. Nothing ruins a day of FPV aviation faster than your camera switching itself off in midair. On the plus side, you get a glorious, highdefinition recording of your aircraft’s flight, allowing you to share your mad skills with the world on YouTube. All of our front-line aircraft carry two (or more) cameras—typically a board camera and a GoPro. Using a camera switch from FoxTechFPV, we can change between the different video feeds while the bird is in the air, providing us with a degree of redundancy in case one of the cameras goes down.

3. All FPV pilots shall have an appropriate amateur (ham) radio license to lawfully operate the radio systems required for FPV flight operations. 4. The use of FPV aircraft to gather video, still images or other information from any location where individuals have a reasonable expectation of privacy (such as a home or business) is strictly prohibited. The AMA has recognized that FPV is a fast-growing segment of the model aviation industry, and is working aggressively to expand its offerings to FPV pilots. This past summer, it assembled a working group of recognized leaders in the FPV community to help determine its future direction.

As a final caution, bear in mind that more than 200 years after Pope delivered his famous axiom unto the world, no less an intellect than Albert Einstein put his own spin on it: “A little knowledge is a dangerous thing. So is a lot.”

A LITTLE KNOWLEDGE...

In 1711, British poet Alexander Pope wrote, “A little knowledge is a dangerous thing.” My fear is that all I’ve succeeded in imparting to you over the preceding 2,000 words is a little knowledge. If you’re interested in giving FPV a try, you should—it’s an amazing experience and I’m convinced that it is going to be the future of model aviation. However, it is incumbent on you to study and learn and ask questions. FPV is so much fun that you’ll find plenty of people eager to help. However, always remember: stay humble, put safety first and recognize that any system or component can fail at any time, without warning! FOLLOW US ON TWITTER @RCSPORTFLYER

RC-SF.COM

BY Andrew Gibbs

IT IS ONE COMPONENT

OF OHM’S LAW

RESISTANCE I

n this month’s column, I continue my discussion of the principles of electricity, which is the foundation on which future content will depend. Pretty soon we’ll be

discussing electric motors, which are a lot more interesting than the basics, but we can’t really do this meaningfully without first covering these basic principles.

MODEL OF THE MONTH

Stuart added this angled tray to accommodate the model’s 6S 5000-mAh battery pack. Velcro® helps to secure the battery in position— wise because G loads and turbulence, plus vibration during grass takeoffs and landings on even fairly smooth ground can exert surprisingly strong forces on a model and its battery.

RC SPORT FLYER — NOVEMBER 2013

The ESC is installed, along with the motor, in the cowl area of the model. This is a good place for the ESC because it keeps it away from the RC electronics, and this position makes it easy to get adequate cooling flowing over the controller.

To start, let’s look at an inspirational model. Model of the month on this occasion is a beautiful quarter-scale Bowers Fly Baby from Stuart Warne. The model was built from a Jim Pipino plan, and has a wingspan of 84 inches. Stuart acquired the Fly Baby when he was looking for a large model, but being a busy guy, he wanted to save the effort of building a new airframe. At the time of the purchase the model had a 0.70 4-cycle motor installed. So Stuart removed it and sold it. He then stripped the airplane of its covering, and began converting the model to electric power. Modifications included fitting an electric motor, installing

RESISTANCE Stuart’s Fly Baby is seen here warming up its PPPO-5065 motor prior to a leisurely local flight. The attractive looks of the Fly Baby have always appealed to me. This is a superb kit (if you can find one) if you want to convert it to electric power too.

a battery tray and making cooling arrangements for the new power system components.

POWER SYSTEM

The main components of the power system are a 380 Kv motor, a six-cell 5000-mAh LiPo battery and a 16×9 propeller. With this power system the motor draws 45 amps, which equates to just over 1,000 watts of power. This is roughly equivalent in power to the previous glow-powered motor that was installed. As an internal-combustion powered model it weighed 13.5 pounds. Alternately, as an electricpowered model it weighs only 11 pounds.

POWER LOADING

The power loading of the Fly Baby is just under 100 watts per lb, which is a generous figure for a scale, light aircraft. The battery delivers enough Stuart’s rendition of the Fly Baby has all the character of the full-scale aircraft in the air, as well as on the ground. Notice the sturdy landing gear legs that are used on this model.

current for flights of around 15 to 20 minutes. Stuart usually flies the model with the motor throttled well back, if one can use such a term for an electric motor!

KV AND PROPELLER RPM The propeller rpm can be quite accurately estimated if the motor’s Kv and the battery voltage are known. Stuart’s choice of a 380 Kv motor (380 rpm per volt) means

that the on a 6S battery, which has a nominal voltage of around 22 volts, the no-load rpm would be around 8300 rpm (22 x 380 = 8300). In practice, with the load of a propeller, the rpm will be about 15 percent less, giving an actual propeller rpm of around 7100 at full throttle.

FLY BABY IN FLIGHT

Stuart told me that the model would not turn easily. I guessed that

RC-SF.COM

maybe the problem was adverse yaw. Note that if the down-going aileron travels the same distance as the upgoing, the down-going aileron will typically produce more drag than the up-going. This can result in the airplane having a tendency to yaw (nose swinging to one side) in the opposite direction of the intended

The Fly Baby cruises past Stuart and I during this camera pass. The model has a 85-in. wingspan, is 56 inches long and weighs 11 pounds ready to fly. The wing loading is 22 oz/ft2.

turn direction. Often, an effective solution for this is to adjust the controls such that the down-going aileron’s travel is significantly reduced as compared to the up-going one. This is known as differential aileron. It reduces adverse yaw because the drag caused by the down-going aileron is reduced relative to that of the up-going. Adverse yaw for models, and fullscale airplanes, is more pronounced for high-aspect-ratio winged aircraft, such as gliders and certain light

aircraft like the Piper Cub. Aileron differential is definitely needed in these aircraft types. Using aileron differential carries an additional bonus in that tip stalling becomes less likely in low airspeed situations such as take off and during landing approach, which makes for safer flying. I almost always set my models up with aileron differential. Anyway, I questioned Stuart about the way his Fly Baby model was set up. He said the ailerons had an equal travel in both directions. I suggested and aileron differential fix of a twoto-one ratio of up to down. He made the change, and reported that it did help. It’s worth noting that for good quality balanced turns, all aircraft including models need a combination of aileron and rudder control. Generally, the higher the aspect ratio the greater the proportion of rudder to aileron control that is required. You can find more about this model in the articles section of my website at gibbsguides.com.

ELECTRICAL RESISTANCE

All electrically conductive materials have some electrical resistance. This includes the materials from which our batteries, motors and electronic speed controllers (ESC) are made. Electrical resistance may be likened to the resistance that the water experiences when flowing through the outlet pipe. Clearly, a small-diameter pipe will create more resistance to the amount of flow of water as compared to a largediameter one. Similarly, a large-gauge piece of wire can conduct more current for a given voltage than a small-gauge wire. We can easily imagine that the resistance of the pipe will not be much of an impediment to the flow of water if we only need to pass water through the pipe very slowly. It is the same with electricity, and this is why thick wire (equivalent to a large pipe) is used for highcurrent applications, such as those The Fly Baby has elegant proportions, and what looks like a close-to-scale-size propeller (16x9). This level of detail is often easily achieved with relatively large electric-powered models.

RC SPORT FLYER — NOVEMBER 2013

RESISTANCE of electric flight battery packs, while thinner wire is used for low current applications: i.e., servo wires. Also, the longer a pipe or piece of wire is, the more resistance it will present to the flow of water or electrical current. So if we consider two pipes of equal diameter, one six inches long and the other three feet long, it is clear that the longer one will present a higher resistance. Electrical resistance is measured

in the unit of Ohm. The Ohm is named after Georg Ohm, the German physicist and mathematician who discovered the relationship between voltage, current and resistance, which now stated as Ohm’s Law.

VOLTAGE, RESISTANCE AND CURRENT

In the case of the water reservoir, we can see that there is a relationship between (i) water

12V

High pressure of water, and a small outlet pipe results is a moderate water flow

A low pressure of water and a small outlet pipe. The result is a low water flow

High pressure of water with a large outlet pipe results in a high water flow

pressure, (ii) size of the outlet pipe and (iii) the resulting flow. I’ve included a diagram to illustrate the relationship between these three factors. The diagram illustrates the relationship between water pressure, the size of the outlet tube and the resulting water flow. This also represents very well the relationship between battery voltage (water pressure), electrical resistance (resistance of the outlet pipe) and the resulting flow of current in amps (water flow). Ohm’s Law describes this relationship. It states that voltage equals the current multiplied by the resistance. In its most common form, Ohms law looks like this (remembering that V = volts, I = current in amps and R = resistance in ohms): V = I x R, or V ÷ I = R, and V÷R=I Let’s put some numbers in and see how Ohm’s Law works. For example, say you have a six-volt battery and a resistance of two Ohms, the current will be three amps. We know this is

Stuart has given his pilot a neat instrument panel. Full-scale homebuilt aircraft of this era are typically fitted with a fairly sparse collection of instrumentation.

The Fly Baby’s pilot has a bit of an acne problem going on, but he patiently waits in his cockpit for the next opportunity to taxi onto the runway for a flight around the patch.

The Fly Baby’s 6S 5000-mAh battery installs through the cockpit aperture. The pilot is removable for this purpose. The tray is installed at an angle too.

These landing wires function to support the weight of the wing after landing. Interesting details like this really bring the models to life and give it character.

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RESISTANCE

Stuart Warne’s Fly Baby is captured here on its final approach for landing. Notice the upelevator control that is applied at this point in the approach. At full throttle this model’s power system delivers 1000 watts, so it has a power loading of 130 watts per pound.

true because 6 ÷ 2 = 3. If the resistance stays at two Ohms but we increase the volts to twelve, we can again use Ohms: 12 volts ÷ 2 ohms = 6 amps You don’t need to remember or understand Ohms Law to make sense of electric power systems. I’ve included it simply to help cement our understanding between voltage, resistance and current.

INTERNAL RESISTANCE

I explained earlier that all electrically conductive materials have resistance. So it is important to point out that even the battery has resistance, which must be considered in the circuit of an electric power system. The electrical resistance of a battery is called internal resistance. This resistance must be considered when determining how suitable a battery is for high-current applications. The lower the resistance, the better the battery will be at supplying a high current, without generating a lot of internal heat. 66

RC SPORT FLYER — NOVEMBER 2013

All good quality modern lithium polymer (LiPo) batteries used for electric flight can be expected to have a relatively low internal resistance. The red elastic band around this one is a reminder that it’s fully charged.

RESISTANCE IN COMPONENTS

The wiring connecting the battery to the ESC and the ESC to the motor also has resistance. However, normally, the wiring is made large enough so that its resistance is not significant. Then too, the components used in the ESC’s conduction path have resistance, which may or may not affect the performance of the power system.

NEXT TIME…

I’ll be discussing another inspirational model and will continue this discussion of the principles of

electricity. Then, we’ll look at power and motor efficiency, which is an important factor when considering electric-powered model systems. What appears here will reflect your input. So please let me know what you’d like to see here. If you’d like to see your electric-powered model appear in my column, send at least one high-quality (300 dpi) photograph along with the details of your airplane. In the meantime, you can enjoy learning more about electric flight at gibbsguides.com.

BY Mike Hoffmeister

ENGINE TEST

O.S. GF40 4-STROKE 40-CC GAS ENGINE HIGH-END PERFORMANCE WITH THAT SWEET FOURSTROKE SOUND

The O.S. GF40 engine comes well-packed in an attractive, high-quality box, and includes instructions, decals, ignition system, muffler, propeller washer/nuts, and spark plug.

RC SPORT FLYER â&#x20AC;&#x201D; NOVEMBER 2013

O.S. GF40 4-STROKE 40-CC GAS ENGINE The left side of the engine proudly displays the “O.S. Gas Power” logo, and also gives a good view of the ignition sensor and carburetor connections (throttle, choke and fuel inlet).

.S. Engines is a leading, model-engine manufacturer. Their engines are known for quality, reliability, ease of tuning and innovation. Following the introduction of four gasolinepowered, two-stroke engines, beginning in 2009, the GF40 marks their first single-cylinder, fourstroke, gas-powered engine offering. Based on O.S.’s long history of producing great four-stroke, glow-powered engines, and continuously improving their gasoline two-stroke engines over the past five years, I was particularly eager to test their new GF40. The release of the GF40 is welltimed, because the 30- to 40-cc-size airplanes have grown in popularity over the past few years. While there are countless two-stroke, gaspowered engines available, there are not many four-stroke. Worth noting is that many modelers want a more

This shows the mounting features on the backplate, and also the carburetor connections and needle valve locations. You can also see the small support cast into the lower, left-mount lug to guide the choke actuator rod—a nice touch by O.S.!

This front view shows how compact the engine is, yet with generous cooling fin area. The engine looks low, clean and mean. The outstanding quality of this engine is evident from top to bottom and all around.

This right-side view gives a good, overall perspective of the engine. Note how compact the front of the engine is, and the usual top-notch quality of the castings and the distinctive “40GF” logo.

RC-SF.COM

Here is both a front and top view, with the included muffler installed. The muffler is very compact for an engine of this displacement, and should be easy to mount in your model.

scale-like sound from their models’ engines. So, it is timely that O.S. is now introducing the GF40.

WHY TO BUY

I’ll start by pointing out that the GF40 has the same mount bolt-hole pattern as their GT33 gas-powered, two-stroke engine. It also shares the same distance from propeller-drive hub to the mount surface, which will simplify a model’s switch to fourstroke power. The 30- to 40-cc-size airplanes are now quite popular, since they are big enough to provide a largeairplane feel for the pilot, but are small enough to fit in many vehicles for transportation to the RC airfield. Plus, these airplanes cost less than larger models. Further, they can be outfitted with less expensive servos

and radio gear as compared to largescale aircraft. O.S. is releasing the GF40 based on their decades-long experience of building top-notch RC engines, as well as the gasoline-specific experience they have gained over the past five years with the GT55, GT33, GT22 and GT60. The GF40 is powerful, lightweight, easy to tune, compact and is sold with a muffler. Furthermore, O.S. has made the mount’s dimensions the same as the GT33. Plus, they have incorporated a simple but effective Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system that minimizes the blow-by-related mess that typically happens under a model’s cowling. Finally, O.S. backs the GF40 with a two-year warranty.

F6040 MUFFLER

The included F6040 muffler is compact, good-looking and effective at reducing exhaust noise. The threaded header adapter also allows a lot of flexibility in mounting orientation.

RC SPORT FLYER — NOVEMBER 2013

The latest generation O.S. IG-04 ignition module is very compact and operates with a wide range of input voltages: 4- to 5-cell NiMh, 2-cell A123 or 2-cell LiPo— without the need for a regulator. It is also incredibly efficient, consuming only 0.13 amp at idle and 0.44 amp at top rpm.

BREAK-IN AND PERFORMANCE

The first step in setting up for the test was to adapt the GF40 to the computer-controlled, thrust-teststand systems. This turned out to be a simple task, as the mounting pattern is the same as the GT33, which had previously been tested. Also, the throttle linkage proved to be easy to rig because the rear-mounted carburetor and pre-installed control horn on the carburetor butterfly shaft were easy to access. With the engine mounted to the stand, and the wires and fuel lines secured, I filled the test stand’s fuel O.S. IG-04 IGNITION MODULE

O.S. GF40 4-STROKE 40-CC GAS ENGINE tank and started the engine. The first propeller used was an APC 18×8, which is the recommended break-in propeller. A fresh gallon of regular unleaded gasoline was mixed at a 32:1 ratio with Royal Purple synthetic twocycle oil. The O.S. manual has detailed instructions on oil-to-gas-mix ratios for running-in plus general use after break-in, so it’s important to follow the manual. The manual also recommends setting both needle valves to 1-2/3 turns out for initial running. The manual has detailed instructions for starting the engine either with an electric starter or with a stick (flipping by hand). The engine drew fuel to the carburetor readily while I flipped it by hand with the throttle open, choke closed and ignition off. The engine was flipped

about 10 more times after fuel reached the carburetor, to allow filling of the carb’s passages and cavities with fuel, plus initial priming of the engine. Then, with the choke open, throttle at about 10 percent,

PISTON

and ignition on, the engine fired easily. I ran the engine up and down to vary its rpm and load. After the first tank of fuel, I was running the engine for longer periods of full throttle, and then started to tune the carburetor

Here you see the range of motion the piston goes through as the crankshaft rotates. At maximum rpm, the piston makes this trip 150 times per second! The big end of the connecting rod features a needle roller-bearing for reduced friction.

This hardware layout shows the major parts that make up the GF40, minus fasteners. Note that castings and machine-finish quality are typical of all O.S. engines.

RC-SF.COM

CYLINDER

The backplate includes the engine mount features, so it is quite beefy. It is sealed to the engine with an O-ring, for a leak-free fit. The small, cast-in aluminum nipple provides the pressure signal to the carburetor to operate the pump diaphragm, and the small brass fitting houses the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve that assures mess-free performance.

to obtain cleaner running, while still being cautious to keep the high-speed needle slightly on the rich side. I found the carburetor very easy to tune, providing great feedback to adjustments, but without being overly sensitive. The instructions include a clear, step-by-step approach to tuning the carburetor. With the larger propellers, the engine would easily hold 1500 rpm idle without stumbling upon quick-throttle opening. It also held steady rpm at full throttle. With the smaller propellers (having less rotational inertia, or “flywheel” effect) it seemed more comfortable and smooth with an idle of 1700– 1800 rpm. The standard test run has the engine running for five seconds at stable idle, then five seconds at 20 percent throttle, then five seconds at 40 percent throttle, and so on, with the final five seconds at wide-open throttle. All the while, the Medusa Research Power Analyzer Pro data system captures rpm, thrust, throttle position, ignition current draw and temperature. In a test taking less than one minute, much data is captured, which then allows graphing of the results so that they can be easily interpreted, and various propellers can be compared to each other. After this first test with the APC 18×8, I then changed propellers several times 72

RC SPORT FLYER — NOVEMBER 2013

This top view of the removed cylinder head shows the spark plug threads and mounting bolt holes. Also, the exhaust valve has been removed, revealing a castin, bronze valve guide. This is the kind of quality you get with an O.S. engine from top to bottom. This view up into the cylinder head shows the heart-shaped combustion chamber that O.S. uses on this motor.

REED VALVE INDUCTION SYSTEM The GF40 uses a reed valve induction system, through the engine’s rear crankcase casting. The system is very compact, and offers a straight path to feed the air/fuel charge into the crankcase. The thrust test stand uses the Medusa Research Power Analyzer Pro system for data collection and PC interface. The shop light on the small step ladder is used to help improve optical tachometer response time and accuracy.

O.S. GF40 4-STROKE 40-CC GAS ENGINE This view shows the engine running with the Mejzlik 19×8 carbon propeller. It also shows the throttle servo and linkage, plus the tachometer sensor (near the bottom) and the fuel line.

The camera flash-freezes the carbon weave pattern in the Mejzlik 19×8 propeller, while the engine runs at idle. The engine is leaning slightly to the right simply due to available mounting hole locations in the test-stand mount plate. This rear angle shows the mounting of the IG-04 ignition module, routing of the spark-plug wire and forward end of the test stand. The GF40 swings the Mejzlik 19×8 propeller up to 7600 rpm—producing a healthy 17.8 lb of thrust.

until I had a good, clean, test run for each one included in this review. Five of the eight propellers tested delivered more than 17 pounds of thrust. I found that the carburetor needle required only a very slight adjustment from the lowest load to the highest load propeller. Considering the wide range of propellers used, I was amazed at how little adjustment was required! Later in the day, after all testing was completed, I checked the needle valve settings and confirmed the following: high-speed 1-5/8 turns, low-speed 1-1/2 turns. With these settings, the engine idled smoothly, had great throttle response and ran cleanly at full throttle, but was just a bit rich on the high-speed needle, running about 100 rpm down from peak. A digital, sound pressure-level meter was used to capture decibel levels, set to the A-weighting scale (which simulates the response of the human ear). With the meter FOLLOW US ON TWITTER @RCSPORTFLYER

at a distance of 10 feet from the propeller, at a 45-degree angle to the side and rear of the engine, the sound pressure levels ranged from 88.1 to 97.1 dBA, which is fairly reasonable— much of the noise comes from the propeller, especially for the lower load propellers that allow higher rpm. Finally, a few comments about the features of the ignition system. The unit is compatible with a wide variety of power sources, without the need for a regulator: 4- to 5-cell NiMH packs, to 2-cell A123 cells and a 2-cell LiPo. Measured data, while running on a regulated, six-volt power source, demonstrates the high efficiency of the system, drawing a measured 0.44 amp at top rpm; at idle the draw is only 0.13 amp. The new IG-04 unit is also very compact, compared to previous O.S. ignition modules and

those of their competitors, which makes mounting it a breeze. See the included graph for the profile of current draw vs. rpm across the engine’s operating speed range.

ENGINE HARDWARE LAYOUT

First, it’s necessary to point out that disassembling the engine should not be necessary, and if for some reason it is required, the best approach is to have a qualified service center do the work. Having said this, I tore the engine down most of the way in an effort to show you more of the engine in this review. We did a partial disassembly of the GF40, stopping short of steps that would require special tools. Starting at the top of the engine, I first removed the rear-mounted RC-SF.COM

APC 18X10

Specifications

are under the rocker cover) were removed to allow cylinder head removal. The linerless cylinder is removable, and is attached to the crankcase with four bolts, and sealed with an O-ring. There is no separate sleeve to deal with, so removing the

O.S. GF40 Four-Stroke Gasoline Engine RPM

This table shows the top rpm, static thrust, pitch speed and dB level achieved with each of the eight propellers tested.

cylinder is as simple as taking out the four mounting bolts and lifting the cylinder off the piston and engine crankcase. I left the piston and connecting rod installed, otherwise special tools would be required for the job. The engine’s backplate also serves as the mount, so it is quite beefy. It is sealed with an O-ring, so there are no gaskets to worry about. It also features a cast-in nipple to operate the carburetor pump, and it has a brass Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve pre-installed, which contains a check-valve that only allows air to move into the crankcase. Blowby and oil accumulating in the crankcase is fed around the cam

APC 18X8

carburetor, manifold, insulator block and velocity stack assembly. Next, I removed the rocker cover. The gasket stayed with the cover during removal—a bonus. Next I removed the single bolt holding the rocker arms and pivot shaft on which they ride. Finally, five bolts (two of which

APC 18X12

APC 19X11

Mejzlik 19X8

APC 20X8

APC 20X10

MA 20X10 Wood

These are the eight propellers used on the GF40 as part of this test review. The engine was happy to swing any of them, showing its ability to cover a wide range of propeller sizes, types and applications.

Static thrust (lb)

Pitch speed (mph)

Sound pressure level (dBA)

Type

4-stroke gasoline

Displacement

2.438 in.2 (39.96 cc)

Bore

1.57 in. (40.0 mm)

Stroke

1.251 in. (31.8 mm)

Cylinders

Single

Engine-only weight

41.3 oz (1170 g)

Ignition weight

3.4 oz (95 g)

Muffler weight

4.0 oz (113 g)

Total weight

48.7 oz (1378 g)

Propellers

18×8 (break-in), 18×10-12, 19×8-10, 20×8-10

Rpm range

1800–9000

3.75 @ 8600 rpm

Fuel

Gasoline (regular unleaded) at 30–50:1 ratio

Mounting dimensions

See osengines.com

APC 18X8

8,650

17.8

65.5

97.1

APC 18X10

7,800

15.3

73.9

96.0

Muffler type

O.S. F6040 aluminum

APC 18X12

7,450

15.4

84.7

93.3

Ignition

Mejzlik 19X8

7,600

19.3

57.6

93.5

O.S. IG-04 electronic ignition, 4.8–8.4 V

APC 19X11

6,500

17.0

67.7

88.1

Cylinder

Plated aluminum, linerless

APC 20X8

7,100

18.7

53.8

92.6

Carburetor

Walbro pumper, 2 needle valve

APC 20X10

6,450

17.0

61.1

88.1

Crankshaft

Dual ball bearing

MA 20X10 Wood

5,700

16.8

54.0

87.2

Price

$799.99

RC SPORT FLYER — NOVEMBER 2013

O.S. GF40 4-STROKE 40-CC GAS ENGINE O.S. GF40 ignition current vs. rpm (at 6V)

Thrust vs. pitch speed

0.5

20 APC 18X8 APC 18X10 APC 18X12 Mejzlik 19X8 APC 19X11 APC 20X8 APC 20X10 MA 20X10 Wood

18 16 14 Static Thrust (lb)

Ignition current (amps)

0.4 0.3 0.2 0.1

12 10 8 6 4 2

0.0 1,000

0 2,000

3,000

4,000

5,000

6,000

7,000

8,000

9,000

RPM

18 16 14

8 6

12 10

APC 18X8 APC 18X10 APC 18X12 Mejzlik 19X8 APC 19X11 APC 20X8 APC 20X10 MA 20X10 Wood

8 6

0 1,000

20 APC 18X8 APC 18X10 APC 18X12 Mejzlik 19X8 APC 19X11 APC 20X8 APC 20X10 MA 20X10 Wood

Static thrust (lb)

Thrust vs. throttle position

This graph shows how static thrust and static pitch speed relate to each other. If you want maximum static thrust then just pick the one with highest thrust, but if you want to trade off some static thrust for more pitch speed, this graph can help you visualize the tradeoff.

Thrust vs. rpm

Pitch speed (mph)

This graph shows the ignition-current draw across the rpm range, using a regulated, 6.0-volt power source. The ignition system is extremely efficient, drawing only 0.44 amp at top rpm and a miserly 0.13 amp at idle!

0 2,000

3,000

4,000

5,000

6,000

7,000

8,000

9,000

RPM

FINDING

The new O.S. GF40 engine proved to be a strong performer, with good FOLLOW US ON TWITTER @RCSPORTFLYER

100

Throttle stick position (%)

This graph shows how thrust relates to engine rpm for each of the five propellers tested. This also helps you visualize the relative load each propeller will impart to the engine across the engine’s rpm range, which should help you pick the right one for your model.

followers, up the pushrod tubes and it then lubricates the rocker arms and valves, before being ingested into the intake port to be burned. All of this means minimal mess on and in your model! We have all experienced the extreme mess some of the glowpowered, four-stroke engines can make by dumping blow-by right into the model’s engine compartment. Note that you must make sure to follow the instructions to fit a short piece of hose to the brass fitting on the backplate.

This graph shows how thrust output varies with throttle position. As throttle is advanced to around 40–60 percent, thrust increases rapidly, and fairly linearly. Beyond 60 percent throttle, thrust increases very little as throttle is moved to 100 percent. Use of a throttle curve or throttle exponential could help make the thrust response feel more linear.

manners in terms of tuning and throttle response. It ran extremely well with each of the eight propellers tested, covering a wide range of rpm and load conditions. The price point is higher than comparable premium two-stroke engines; however, when taking into account the discount offers that are frequently available at towerhobbies.com, the fact that a quality muffler is included and that it delivers that sweet, four-stroke sound, the engine is absolutely a great choice. For all of these reasons, the new GF40 must be considered when you are making the decision as to which power plant to select for your 30- to 40-cc-sized airplane.

To see and hear the GF40 engine run, please see the video I’ve uploaded to youtube.com by searching on RCSportFlyer.

Distributor Great Planes Model Distributors P.O. Box 9021 Champaign, IL 61826-9021 greatplanes.com O.S. Engines osengines.com Tower Hobbies P.O. Box 9078 Champaign, IL 61826-9078 800-637-4989 towerhobbies.com

RC-SF.COM

BY Jerry Smith

he Stearman Aircraft Corporation was established by Lloyd Stearman at Venice, California, in 1926. After some financial problems the company was soon relocated to Wichita, Kansas, in 1927. Stearman eventually became a division of Boeing Aircraft. As a division of the Boeing Corporation, Stearman was contracted to build training airplanes for the military, based on a design by Stearman known as the Army’s YPT-9.

In the meantime, Lloyd Stearman returned to California to serve as the president of Lockheed, while designers at Boeing/Wichita— working under the direction of chief engineer Harold Zipp—continued to make modifications and develop newer versions of the Stearman. These were prototypes of the familiar PT-17s that we know as World War II trainers. Although these were actually Boeing designs known as the type 73 and the type 75, the

original Stearman name stuck with them over the years. They continue to be known as Stearmans no matter their model number.

MODEL

Pedro Sanchez has recently completed a 1/3-scale Stearman. His model was built from a Balsa USA kit. It was modeled after a full-scale Stearman that is based in England. Pedro’s model is not the usual blue and yellow color scheme that is

PEDRO SANCHEZ STEARMAN

RC SPORT FLYER — NOVEMBER 2013

PEDRO SANCHEZ STEARMAN normally modeled. Instead, his model is done in a silver, black and white trim, which is a very unusual color scheme. The model is powered with a Moki 215-cc radial engine. The Moki turns a 32 ×14 wood propeller. Pedro covered his Stearman with Stits fabric, and used pinking tape and rib stitching to add realism to the airplane’s surfaces. The ready-to-fly weight of the model is 55 lb. Pedro is meticulous when it

comes to reproducing the details of the full-scale aircraft in his models. Look closely at the pictures provided and you’ll see just what I saw while photographing his model. The screws, rivets, stitching around the cockpit, the instrument panels, the pilot, the storage basket behind the pilot, the fuel tubing, and the site gauges under the top wing are all very well done and detailed. What I saw in his Stearman was in keeping with what he does with all his airplanes,

although this airplane really stands out as a biplane, with its big radial up front. Watching the Stearman fly is pure joy. The sound of the radial running at half throttle during a low flyby is a sound you won’t forget—thrilling to say the least. The pictures shown here were taken on the day of the maiden flight at the Georgia Model Aviators RC airfield. The Stearman was flown several times, and captured on film for PBS as part of a television feature to be aired later this year.

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RC SPORT FLYER â&#x20AC;&#x201D; NOVEMBER 2013

PEDRO SANCHEZ STEARMAN

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BY Wil Byers / Built by Gene Cope

1/4-SCALE PA-18 SUPER CUB ARF

TAKE CONTROL OF THIS CUB FOR SOME SERIOUS TOUCH-N-GO FLYING FUN!

You will fall in love with the Hangar 9 PA-18 Super Cub. It is very much like the full-scale airplane in that it is a joy to fly.

RC SPORT FLYER â&#x20AC;&#x201D; NOVEMBER 2013

HANGAR 9 1/4-SCALE PA-18 SUPER CUB ARF

he Piper PA-18 Super Cub is a two-seat, single-engine monoplane. It was introduced to the market in 1949 by Piper Aircraft. The PA-18 was a further development of the Piper PA-11. Even so, it has the earmarks of the original Taylor E-2 Cub as well as the J-3. Over 9,000 PA-18s were built in over nearly 40 years of production. Because of its outstanding performance and utility the PA-18 Super Cub has been used for bush flying, banner and glider towing, and by sport pilots around the world. Even though the PA-18 Super Cub has nearly identical design lines of the original Cub, it is typically powered by a 150-hp Lycoming engine. Many, however, were upgraded to a 160hp O-320 or even a 180-hp O-360 engine. The designers also added electric-powered 3-notch flaps to the high-lift wing. When all these design

changes came together the Super Cub made for an excellent floatplane, or even skiplane. Note that some were even used as agricultural spray aircraft, when they were fitted with the chemical tank and a spray system. In other words, the PA-18 Super Cub is a very versatile airplane that was used by literally thousands of professional and sport pilots.

KIT

Hangar 9’s rendition of the venerable PA-18 Super Cub is done as a high-quality almost ready to fly (ARF) kit. The model comes from the factory with its fuselage framed and ready for servos, motor/engine, windows, landing gear, fiberglass cowl and tail feathers. The quality of the covering is outstanding—very few wrinkles. The wings are built and covered as are the tail feathers. The flaps and ailerons come ready

Having a pilot figure in the cockpit adds much to the overall scale look of this model when it is in the air. Note the pilot comes with the ARF kits—pretty cool.

for hinging. The fiberglass cowling is painted and ready for installation. The landing gear is completely fabricated, although it requires assembly. For our model we ordered it as an electricpowered airplane, so we also got the plywood motor box. One of the things that stands out about this kit is the quality of hardware. It is first quality all the way through. Also, the kit includes some building jigs that make assembly go much easier and thereby quicker. You’ll like the fact that you can order a complete cockpit kit, so you can detail this model to be super scale. To that end, you can even buy a very nice light set kit, which includes landing light, wing tip lights, and even a tail light. Hangar 9 also includes a pilot, which is a very nice touch if you want your model to truly look scale in the air. This is a kit that is well done all the way through.

From this angle you would think this is a full-scale PA-18 making a full-flap landing in the bush. Not! It is just this great looking Hangar 9 1/4-scale Super Cub.

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The kit includes all the airframe parts, cowling, a pilot, landing gear, windows, some building jigs and an excellent hardware package.

• • • • • • • •

INCLUDES

Fuselage Wings & stabilizers Ailerons & flaps Landing gear w/ wheels and tires Fiberglass cowl Struts Windows Parts kits (including control surface jigs) • Spinner • Instruction manual

NEEDED TO COMPLETE • • • • • • • •

Power 110 outrunner motor Phoenix ICE 75 BL ESC (2) 5000-mAh 4S 14.8-volt LiPo APC 19x10 electric propeller EP motor mount & battery tray EC5 battery harness EC5 6-in. Extension Socket head screws 1-1/4-in. 10x32 • EC5 connector • 12-in. servo extension • 2700-mAh NiMH Rx battery (NN w/ ICE 75)

OPTIONAL

• Landing light kit • Complete interior kit These are the servos and extension you need to buy, plus the batteries and their connectors. We fitted the model with a Spektrum AR9020 9-channel receiver.

The E-flite Power 110 outrunner motor is a formidable power plant for the 1/4-scale PA-18. It will deliver all the clean, quiet power you could possibly want for this model.

RC SPORT FLYER — NOVEMBER 2013

Hangar 9’s instruction manual is very complete and detailed. I’m pretty certain anyone with a bit of building experience would have no trouble assembling this airplane.

HANGAR 9 1/4-SCALE PA-18 SUPER CUB ARF

PILOT REPORT

From takeoff to landing you are going to love flying this model, especially as an electric-powered airplane. The Power 110 outrunner motor just pumps out the watts when you hit the throttle, which makes for exciting flying no matter how to you slice it. For my first flight of the PA-18 I set its flaps at their takeoff position. Then I lined the model up on the runway. Next I pushed the throttle forward slowly to about 50 percent and began adding some right rudder This is what the cockpit kit looks like as it comes from the factory. If you install it, you will have a model that is very well detailed both inside and out. It adds that finishing touch!

Check out how well designed the wingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s servo mounts are for the PA-18. The servos fit very snugly in the mounts and against the servo well cover.

You must cut off one end of the flaps hinges so it can be glued in the flaps as required. The flaps are designed to hinge down and away from the wing in Fowler fashion.

4 FOLLOW US ON TWITTER @RCSPORTFLYER

The jigs that come in the kit make gluing the flaps to the wing a much easier process than it would be without them holding the control surfaces in place.

The servos have a direct connection to the control surfaces, which make for very tight, solid controls that do not have slop in them.

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5 Everything about the wings’ assembly is pretty easy. The struts screw in place, the servos fit their frame wells. The hardest part is the control surface hinging.

6 I glued these fairings onto the wing with RC56 glue. It provides a very good bond and dries clear, so you will not see any residue around the fairing when the glue is dry.

The Super Cub’s landing gear is functional, including the fairing covers on the shock absorbing bungees. It will take you only a few minutes to assemble.

The rudder’s LED light is quick and easy to install in the rudder. You’ll need to route the wire and use a couple of small screws to fasten it in place.

RC SPORT FLYER — NOVEMBER 2013

The rudder’s control connections are very well designed, so you will not have any freeplay in the rudder or the tail wheel once you have the model built.

Super Cub uses two E-flite 4S 5000-mAh 30C LiPo 10 The packs that are wired in series to create an 8S pack that delivers plenty of power for the Power 110 motor.

HANGAR 9 1/4-SCALE PA-18 SUPER CUB ARF to keep it flying down the runway straight, although you won’t need more than about 20 percent. This 1/4-scale PA-18 just tracks down the runway. With just a bit of back pressure on the elevator’s control stick the model lifted off and started to climb briskly. The rest of the story is about having more fun than a barrel of monkeys while flying this big Hangar 9 Super Cub. Look it! Here is the deal, Hangar 9 doesn’t pay me to say good things about their airplanes. The reality is this is a superb flying machine. The motor delivers plenty of power. The controls are absolutely well coordinated. The flaps deliver lots of lift, even in the takeoff position. The roll rate from the ailerons is excellent as is rudder control. Importantly, the elevator control is excellent. The model handles like it was designed for my piloting

preferences. Well, maybe that is because I’m a glider flyer and this model handles like a big, highpowered glider, but one with landing gear. That said, the model’s landing gear is super strong and provides very good handling even on rather long grass. This Cub will loop and do barrel rolls. I did not try to fly it inverted, but then what is the sense in that for this type of model? What I really enjoy about this airplane is how it put me at ease doing touch-n-go landings, making steep approaches the with flaps hung out there and the hotrod takeoffs with the Power 110 pumping out plenty of power. Plus seeing the pilot in the cockpit on the approaches is just way cool too. As a testament to how well this model flies, I let a rank beginner, 17-year-old Alyssa, fly it—although I

was really on the sticks with her to make certain I would not lose my model. Even so, she did very well piloting the 106-in. wingspan PA-18. Suffice it to say, if she can fly this model, even with my help, you can fly it as well.

HANGAR DEBRIEF

While the PA-18 Super Cub is not for the absolute beginner pilot, it is certainly an airplane any intermediate pilot would enjoy flying. It has excellent control response, which means it only does what you command it to do. The big main gear tires, in combination with the steerable tailwheel make for great ground handling. Also, the Super Cub’s rudder makes for superb yaw control, which means you can easily drive it down the centerline of your club’s airfield. One of the things that made this

11 Looking into the motor area you can see plenty of room for the batteries. The plywood battery tray slides forward into the two horizontal slots in the front below the blind nuts.

11 13

When you power this model with the Power 110 motor you will need to route a hole in the firewall for the battery’s leads that will mate with the electronic speed controller.

two LiPo packs are fastened to the battery tray by 12 The hook-n-loop straps that wrap about them. The pilot’s control stick is what secures the tray in position.

14 I used a Castle Pheonix Edge 100 controller for the Super Cub because I had it in stock and it is oversized for the current. The ICE 75 would work just as well as this controller.

14 RC-SF.COM

Sitting on the ground it has the unmistakeable look of the classic Cub. I painted the tips of the propellers so I could see them while it is spinning.

Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m using a Spektrum DX-18 transmitter to control my PA-18. Look at that landing gear. Its works like those of the full-scale; and the tires work well in grass as well.

RC SPORT FLYER â&#x20AC;&#x201D; NOVEMBER 2013

HANGAR 9 1/4-SCALE PA-18 SUPER CUB ARF

This shows the Super Cub coming in for a 1/2-flap landing approach. Notice the up elevator control being used at this point in the flight to keep the model flying slow.

For this takeoff I hit the throttle and then pulled the model up for a very steep climb. Believe me, the Power 110 outrunner motor makes power!

This says it all! The model has great looks, will make steep, full-flap approaches, has an excellent landing gear and there is power to spare on tap.

Here you see a full-flap landing approach. Notice the down elevator compensation that Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve programmed into the Spektrum DX-18 transmitter to aid my pilot load.

You gotta love the planform of the wings, fuselage and horizontal stabilizer with elevators. Oh yeah, the struts are functional.

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This is making a landing approach with the flaps set to their landing position. Even so, the big Super Cub slows right down for an easy-to-make landing.

Seventeen-year-old Alyssa and I share the Tx’s control sticks so she can have a chance to fly the Super Cub. She did very well flying the model, even as a beginner.

RC SPORT FLYER — NOVEMBER 2013

Specifications Wingspan

106 in. (269 cm)

Length

68.0 in. (173 cm)

Wing Area

1630 in.2 (150 dm 2)

Weight

16.5–18.5 lb (7.5–8.4 kg)

Engine Option

1.20–1.60 2-stroke glow; 1.20–1.80 4-stroke glow; 20–26cc 2-stroke gas; 30cc 4-stroke gas

Motor - as built

Power 110

ESC

Castle Pheonix Edge 100 used

Battery

8S 5000-mAh LiPo pack (two 4S)

Transmitter

5-channel min (Spektrum DX-18 used)

Receiver

Spektrum AR9020 9-channel

Servos

7 standard servos (DS821)

Wing Loading

23.5-26.2 oz/ft2

Propeller

APC 19x10E

Spinner

2.5 in.

Price

$649.99

Distributor Horizon Hobby 4105 Fieldstone Road Champaign, IL 61822 Phone: 217-352-1913 Horizonhobby.com

HANGAR 9 1/4-SCALE PA-18 SUPER CUB ARF model really a joy to fly is that its tail will come up almost immediately on application of power. Once its tail is up and flying you can drive the model down the runway or on landing. Then too the generously-sized flaps make for super slow landings and steep approaches, which significantly adds to the fun factor of this model. While this model is not inexpensive, it is not overly priced when you consider the completeness of the airframe, the quality of the Power 110 motor, the fact that you will power it with two 4S 5000-mAh LiPo packs (which should deliver at least 300 flights) and that it will use seven standard-size servos. Really, the final measure of the value of any RC airplane is how much fun it delivers you as a pilot. It is my analysis that the PA-18 Super Cub will give you every dime back in terms of dollar per hour of fun. Maybe it is even under priced.

BUILD

You’ll discover that once this airplane’s tail is up and flying, you can drive it straight down the runway without much effort—it is a joy to pilot.

Control throws Low (in.)

Expo

Ailerons 3/4 up & 9/16 down 1 up & 7/8 down Center of Gravity 4–4.75 in. back of wing’s leading edge at the root

Hangar 9 provides you with one of the most well-written manuals you’ll get in any ARF. It is 84 pages in length and takes you step by step though the build of this model. Therefore, I will not reiterate what the manual provides. I will, however, explain some of the things that we needed to do to convert this model to electric power... To build this model as an electric you’ll need to order the motor box from Horizon Hobby when you order the model. Obviously, you’ll need the motor, a speed controller and the battery pack. You’ll also need to get an at least one APC 19x10E propeller. The conversion from an internal combustion engine to an electric motor is pretty easy. You’ll start by mounting the motor box to the firewall. It takes four bolts that marry to the blindnuts in the firewall. That is all there is to it. Next you will mount the motor to its box. Again, it requires that you use four bolts that fasten the motor to the box. I suggest you use removable Loctite® on the bolts’ threads so they do not come loose during flight. Then attach the propeller hub to the motor’s shaft, taking into consideration the propeller’s distance from the fiberglass cowling. We used both a drill and a Dremel tool, with router bit and the drum sander, to cut the required hole in the Cub’s firewall for the wires from the ESC. The hole only needs to be large enough for the EC5 connector to pass through. Then you’ll want to fasten the ESC to the Super Cub’s motor box. You’ll want to used Velrco tape to fasten it to the box. Also, you should use at least one plastic cable tie to keep it fastened tight to the motor box. Obviously, you need to solder on the respective connectors for the motor and the battery before you attach it to FOLLOW US ON TWITTER @RCSPORTFLYER

High (in.)

20%

Elevator 1-5/16 up & down

1-3/4 up & down 25%

Rudder

1-3/4 right & left

2-3/8 right & left 25%

Flaps

1-1/8 takeoff

2-5/8 landing

the airplane’s firewall. The battery tray is a simple plywood plate. It mates to two slots in the firewall and is held in place with the pilot’s control stick, which threads into the cockpit floor. You’ll want to glue the plywood battery divider into the tray. It is a vertical divider that sits atop the tray. The two 4S 5000-mAh LiPo batteries get wired in series by the E-flite 10 AWG series harness that you’ll need to buy. The harness comes ready to use with the E-flite LiPo battery packs. You’ll want to charge the packs individually before you install the assembled pack on its plywood tray. The LiPo packs are then fastened to the battery tray by Velcro tape. The tape will hold them in place on the tray in terms of fore and aft. There are two additional hook-n-loop straps that will fasten the battery packs into position on the tray. About the only challenge we found in assemblying the Hangar 9 PA-18 Super Cub was learning how to install the battery tray so that it mates with the slots in the firewall. This can be somewhat challenging in that you cannot see the slots with the battery packs on the tray. It will likely take a couple of tries to get it to fit, but once you’ve done it a few times it is not a problem. The only other thing that is a challenge is balancing the model. The instructions say to set the CG at between 4.0 and 4.75 inches back of the wing’s leading edge at the wing root. We used our Southwest Systems’ large-scale airplane EZ Balancer (ezbalancer. com) to aid us in setting the CG position. We set the CG at 4.75 inches, which worked out to be well positioned. That is about all there is to converting the PA-18 Super Cub to electric power.

RC-SF.COM

BY Wil Byers

MOSWEY 4

COOL COMPOSITE CONSTRUCTION IN A CLASSIC VINTAGE GLIDER

These are the classic design lines of a 1950’s vintage glider. This model is a joy to see in flight, especially in this yellow, Swiss color scheme.

In the air the Moswey will not be confused with other gliders. It has a very distinctive look, including its generously-sized rudder.

RC SPORT FLYER — NOVEMBER 2013

he Moswey 4 is a Swiss design that was built in the early 1950’s. Its design followed on the Moswey 3. The Moswey was a vintage type glider that used wood construction and was covered in fabric, which was then doped. The glider was designed to be a high performance glider, with aerobatic certification. It was a successful glider and is noted for making the first trans-Alps flight from south to north. Unfortunately, few Moswey gliders remain, with one now being at Elmira, New York. The Moswey had a very distinctive look to it with a gull type wing, rather bulbous canopy, rounded tail surfaces, round wing tips and top and bottom spoilers. What set it apart from many gliders of the era was its yellow paint scheme and a

I put a Premeir Pilot Plane Jane pilot in the cockpit to finish the Moswey’s scale appearance in the air. As you can see, she is checking the left wing on the model.

MOSWEY 4

big red stripe across its vertical fin emblazoned with the Swiss cross. It was an attractive glider on the ground an in the air. I saw the Moswey model at the Toledo Weak Signals show for the first time in 2012. Its distinctive lines struck me. So it was after talking with Etienne Dorig of Icare RC (icare-rc. com) I opted to buy the Moswey 4 for the 2013 season.

Our model, Jill, shows off the great design lines of this 1/3.75-scale vintage Moswey 4 glider, which is sold by Icare RC as an ARF.

MODEL

The Moswey 4 comes as an almost-ready-to-fly (ARF) glider. It is done as a 1:3.75-scale model. The model glider comes as an allmolded aircraft, including the wings, horizontal stabilizer and vertical fin and rudder. The model has its doublegate type wing spoilers installed. The ARF also includes a seat pan, instrument panel and a releasable towhook that are factory installed. The control surfaces come hinged and the kit has a complete hardware package. Note that even the decals are applied to the nose of the fuselage. It is a very complete ARF. What separates this model from FOLLOW US ON TWITTER @RCSPORTFLYER

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other model gliders is its molded wings. They are extremely unique in that the moldings incorporate the look, and even feel, of a fabric covering, including pinking and rib stitching. I’m not certain how the manufacturer made the plugs for the mold making, but I suspect the manufacturer actually used fabric covered wings as tools to make the molds—the wings are that good in terms of the fabric look. You can see not only the texture of the fabric in the Moswey’s wings, but also the waviness that you would see in a wing that had wood ribs covered in fabric. Truly this is what drew me to the glider in the first place, and I am not at all disappointed in it being an ARF rather than a built-up wood glider—one that would take a few hundred hours to build.

KIT CONTENTS • • • • • • • •

• One Hitec HS-225BB servo (release) • One 5-cell 4000-mAh NiMH battery • Dubro® pull-pull control cable kit • Transmitter - Jeti DC-16 used • Receiver - Jeti duplex R9 • Switch - Maxx Products

SOARING

Do not do as I did for the test flight. I flew my Moswey on the back side of Kiona Butte in a 25-mph wind. The reason I decided to test fly the model there is that it is a slope site that supports both a northeast and a southwest wind. The north face is about 1200 feet high while the back side is about 400 feet. The lift at Kiona is very laminar. Typically it is a superb place to do test flights of gliders, especially if the wind is only blowing about 10 to 15 mph.

The day I flew my Moswey 4 the wind was blowing about 15 mph in town. By the time I reached the summit of Kiona Butte the wind was blowing about 20+ mph, which is not a problem for slope soaring a glider of this size, but... I was pretty excited to get the Moswey flown because it had been in my shop for a few months—even in a ready-to-fly state for about two months. I was waiting for the perfect day, which, following a long, hot summer, this day appeared to have very good conditions for a maiden. At the summit launch site I hurriedly assembled the model. I double-checked the controls and tested the spoilers to make certain they worked properly. Then I carried

Fuselage Finished canopy Wings w/ built-in joiner Horizontal stabilizer Rudder Seat pan Instrument panel Hardware package

NEEDED TO COMPLETE

• Two Hitec HS-45HB servo (elevators) • Two Hitec HS-5245MG servo (ailerons) • Two Hitec HS-85BB servo (spoilers) • One Hitec HS-5645MG servo (rudder)

My assembly of the Moswey started with the horizontal stabilizer and elevators. The stabilizer comes with the index pins installed and mounting hole drilled.

You must use a router to open a slot in the horizontal stabilizers servo well openings to give the servo arms clearance for the required travel.

RC SPORT FLYER — NOVEMBER 2013

Here I’ve routed an opening for the servos’ connectors, glued the servos to mounting blocks and installed the brass control horns.

For the aileron servos, I glued the Hitec HS-5245 servos to thin balsa blocks (shown here) as a way to raise them in the wing the proper height for good control travels.

MOSWEY 4

The wing-to-fuselage electrical connection is a Multiplex type connector, which has each positive and negative wire sharing common terminals. FOLLOW US ON TWITTER @RCSPORTFLYER

You will need to snap the spoilersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; plastic arms free from their pivots as a way to remove the blades so their pushrods can be connected. RC-SF.COM

I used a threaded clevis at the servo end of the spoilers pushrod connection, with a Z-bend at the spoiler.

As a way to remember the plug connections for the elevators’ servos, I applied red and green nail polish.

As you can see there is nothing in front of Kiona Butte to turbulate the wind, which makes for super slope soaring.

the glider down the slope about 100 yards to where the air was very laminar. With a strong, straight forward throw I launched the glider. The elevator’s trim had a bit too much up set. As a result, the glider jumped up about 20 feet on the launch and started to fly backwards in the wind. So, I added down elevator control and subsequently flew the model out over the valley. Then I let off on the down elevator control that I was holding and let the model climb. At that point, I realized the model needed about four clicks of down-elevator trim, which was added. It then started to fly like it should, and it began to climb under the cumulus clouds that hovered over the valley floor.

I made a simple cardboard template to get the proper fit for the rudder/receiver’s servo tray before I cut the plywood.

RC SPORT FLYER — NOVEMBER 2013

The rudder’s and the releasable towhook’s servo tray were fiberglassed into position with 3.4 oz fabric and epoxy resin.

MOSWEY 4

I installed a Dubro pull-pull cable system for the rudder’s control, so the holes in the rudder post were enlarged for clevis clearance.

I found the controls very well coordinated, and there was no adverse yaw when I rolled the glider. Likewise, the Moswey’s large rudder was very effective at yawing the glider to initiate the turns. Importantly, the model indicated lift well, even in the

This shows you how straightforward the rudder’s pull-pull cable connections are to the Hitec HS-5645MG.

winds at Kiona. Next I started to make passes close into the slope for the photographer. All went extremely well, with the model handling the rather heavy winds, even without the need for extra ballast to give it

penetration into the wind. Then I made a rather foolish mistake. This is especially so in that the wind had picked up a bit from when I had launched the glider. Sadly, I flew the Moswey just a bit too far downwind before turning it into the

BUILD The build of the Moswey 4 is about as easy as you are going to find. There are only a few things that might throw you a curve in terms of getting the model together: the elevator servo install, the spoilers and the rudder’s servo tray. The rest of the build is quite straightforward. Because the horizontal stabilizer is quite deep, with respect to the servos, you’ll want to glue the servos to balsa blocks. Then the blocks will get glued into the stabilizer. I used 6-minute epoxy for gluing the servos and the blocks into the glider. The photos shown here detail how easy it is to do. Also, I recommend you glue the brass control horns into the elevators, and other control surfaces, with finishing resin rather than 6-minute epoxy. The spoilers’ servos install requires that you remove the blades’ control arms from the spoiler wells. This is easy. You simply use a screwdriver to pop the dog-bones from of their pivot points. Once the blades are free you can connect the servo’s pushrod to the spoilers. I used Z-bends on spoiler ends of the pushrods, with the threaded ends at the servo end. That makes for easy adjustments if necessary. Again, the spoiler servos were simply glued into the wings, with 6-minute epoxy as the adhesive. The rudder is controlled by way of pull-pull cables. I did not like the cables that came in the hardware kit, so I replaced them with Dubro cables. To do so, you’ll want to use a Dremel tool to open the holes in the rudder post for the necessary clearances for the clevises. Also, I recommend you use some cardboard or card stock to make a pattern for the rudder’s servo tray. As you can see in the FOLLOW US ON TWITTER @RCSPORTFLYER

accompanying photos I made my model’s tray such that it is also holds the model’s Jeti duplex R9 receiver. Once you’ve determined that the template fits the fuselage properly, you’ll use the template to mark the plywood. Then you’ll cut the servo tray. I cut my model’s tray from 3/32-in. 5-ply plywood. It was the same for the releasable towhooks servo tray. Both trays were then painted. I tacked the trays into the fuselage with cyanoacrylate glue. Then they were fastened in place permanently with 3/4-oz fiberglass and epoxy finishing resin—the glass was cut on the bias so that it would follow the fuselage’s contours easier. Note that the receiver is held on the rudder servo’s tray with Velcro® tape. Be sure to make the rudder’s pull-pull cables taught but not overly tight. Also, make certain the servo is centered exactly with respect to the rudder, so that the rudder’s travel is linear from side to side. You’ll want to make a battery tray too. I made my model’s tray fit the top of the fuselage such that the battery and the lead shot can sit on the tray. The lead shot was mixed with epoxy, put into a plastic bag and then fitted into the nose. When the epoxy cured the lead shot mixture fit the fuselage perfectly. Control Throws (in.) Up Down Ailerons 1-7/16 7/16 Elevator 1-1/8 3/4 Rudder 2-5/8 2-5/8

RC-SF.COM

wind. You see, I was trying to make a very slow flyby for the photographer. Mistake! While the model handled the wind well, it did not have quite enough penetration—without ballast—to come back over the lip of the hill. The result was the model landing just over the lip of the hill and out of my sight. The moment it went out of sight it was probably only about five feet off the ground so I opened the spoilers and landed it. Unfortunately, the model caught a wingtip, with the wind then flipping it over onto its back. The wingtip was damaged as is my pilot’s ego. It was a foolish mistake—one too focused on the photographer getting photos for this article rather than on piloting.

ANALYSIS The releasable towhook mechanism has a simple connection to the servo. The 4000mAh battery sits on a tray just behind the lead shot used to balance the model.

Do not get your Moswey 4 into this position on the slope when the wind is blowing 25 mph. It will be in a position downwind without enough penetration to get back to a safe landing place. In this photo my Moswey is about 10 feet off the ground and backing up slowly. The result was an out-of-sight landing that resulted in a damaged wingtip on the right wing. This glider will take ballast without a problem, so add it if you are going to fly the model in windy conditions in slope lift.

RC SPORT FLYER — NOVEMBER 2013

The generously-sized control surfaces on the Moswey 4 make for excellent control in roll, pitch and yaw. The spoilers are very effective at killing lift too.

Even if you are not into slope soaring this glider is an excellent glider for aerotowing and even winch launching. Its Helmut Quabeck HQ

MOSWEY 4 3/13 airfoil on the wing is made for thermal soaring, yet it offers good penetration. You’ll find that the finish quality on the Moswey is superb— from 10 feet away onlookers will be certain it is fabric covered. I found the hinging, spoilers and control surfaces to all be very well designed and made. You’ll also find that even the canopy comes fitted to its frame, with its retainer already installed. Then too the releasable towhook system is first quality, which means it will provide positive releases each and every time you use it.

To sum the analysis up of this model, it is a very high quality glider that provides an instant solution to building a wood model from plans or from scratch. Your money will be well spent on the Moswey 4.

Distributor Icare/Icarus 890 ch. d’Anjou unit 1 Boucherville, QC J4B-5E4 Canada Phone: 405-449-9094 icare-rc.com

Specifications Scale

1:3.75

Wingspan

151 in. (3.9 m)

Length

66.65 in. (1693 mm)

Wing area

1581 in.2 (102 dm2)

Wing airfoil

HQ 3/13

Wing Loading

16 oz/ft2 (49 g/dm2)

Weight

176 oz (5.0 kg)

Spoilers

Double gate

Transmitter

Jeti DC-16 used

Receiver

Jeti duplex R9

Price

$1682

REPAIR My Moswey 4 glider arrived from the factory with the trailing cure is hard enough such it can be sanded. edges of the wings’ fairings damage slightly. There was about one 5. Use a Dremel tool with drum sander attached to rough sand half inch broken off each trailing edge. the material to approximately the original shaped of the wing. Rather than return the glider to the distributor for replacement, 6. Attach the wing to the fuselage and mark it as shown in the which could have sucked up a month of time, I opted to repair the photo for shaping. trailing edges. I’ve done lots of composite work over the years and 7. Being careful not to sand away too much material. Sand the this repair looked quite easy and quick to make. trailing edges until they fair to the fuselage again as they would Here is what I did to repair the trailing edges: have coming from the factory. 1. I protected both wings with some painters tape, so no epoxy 8. I used bomb can paint from Ace Hardware to spray the would get on the wing where I did not want it. I also taped a piece repaired area to match the wings. of thin plastic to the bottom of the wing as a dam. 2. I mixed some epoxy with milled fiberglass to the consistency of creamy peanut butter. The epoxy I used was Great Planes Pro Epoxy finishing resin. It has a 45- to This shows a mixture of epoxy and milled fiberglass After the epoxy/glass mixture cured overnight I used 50-minute working added to the trailing edge of the wing’s fairing. The a Dremel tool fitted with a drum sander to quickly cut tape is to keep the epoxy off the wing. away the excess material. time. 3. I let the epoxy cure for a few minutes so that it thickened some. 4. The epoxy was applied to the trailing edges of the wings where they had been broken. This mixture was left to cure overnight. Here the wing is fitted back to the fuselage so I can Final block sanding resulted in a near factory fit that Make certain the mark where it needs to be cut such that it will fair back into the fuselage properly.

mates to the fuselage properly again. Check often while sanding for proper fit to the fuselage. RC-SF.COM

BY Staff

JR XG14

ROCK STEADY 14-CHANNEL CONTROL WITH NEW X-BUS RECEIVER JR’s new XG14 transmitter system feels fantastic in your hands with its ergonomic case, ultra-smooth gimbals, easy-to-reach trim switches and all new soft covers on the flight switches.

hile the new JR XG14 has a similar look to their previous models, it is anything but a dusted-off and redone transmitter. Instead, JR took a proven transmitter, made significant changes to its design, incorporated state-of-the-art VVLSI technology, upgraded the parts and pieces of the radio’s case, gimbals, switches and display screen to give this new transmitter system a better user interface and usabillity. Then JR optimized the programming code and implemented their exclusive Dual Modulation Spectrum System (DMSS) protocol into the radio’s frequency system. The result is a radio transmitter that is second to none in the RC arena.

FEATURES

• Large, backlit screen • Premium Grade gimbals w/ CNCmachined aluminum bases • True, non shared 14-channel access • SD card slot for data sharing, storage and updates (SD card required) • Integrated charging circuit • 9-volt AC/DC adapter supplied with automatic shutdown • Lightweight 1 lb 11.9 oz (820 g) • Data entry via scroll bar and four push-button keys • Telemetry with receiver voltage sensor built in • Optional telemetry sensors available • Stick tension and spring adjustment • Dual trim options • Dual side slide-lever controls • Touch Select System for switch selection • New soft switch covers for improved feel and control • User-selected menu for frequently used functions • 8-channel failsafe 98

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JR XG14 • User-assigned switch function • Programmable throttle cut • Two independent programmable timers • 30-model internal memory • Airplane, helicopter and glider programming • Premium gimbals with CNC machined bases

STANDARD

The XG14 radio system provides control and programming for airplane, helicopter or glider/sailplane model types—done with one transmitter configuration. JR includes in the radio system box switch labels for each model type. Obviously, you can use the label type for your aircraft preference. JR’s XG14 programming interface uses its proven, intuitive data entry systems with its trademark vertical roll selector, which is located just to the right of the LCD screen. It is used in combination with four push-button entry keys to the left of the screen. Model configuration, programming and telemetry information is easy to read on the large, LCD display screen, even in high-light conditions.

14 CHANNELS

The JR XG14 doesn’t just claim to give you 14 channels of control, while in reality splitting some of the channels’ update rates to do so. When you use two RG731BX receivers the XG14 provides real, true non-shared 14-channel control, without splitting update rates!

X BUS

If you know what a serial bus is in electronic component design, you know JR’s new X Bus digital serial data is pretty cool. When you buy JR’s RG731BX X Bus receivers you will then have the ability to use the XG14 to control up to four servos per channel. Think of it this way, now you can build an airplane that can use up to 56 servos (4 x 14 channels) for controlling everything from elevator to youdream-up the control. As an example, you may have two servos controlling the rudder and one controlling the nose wheel. Now you can use one channel to do it all, without the need FOLLOW US ON TWITTER @RCSPORTFLYER

▋Helicopter Type

The names in square brackets 【】 are the abbreviated characters displayed on each setting screen.

Helicopter

JR gives each switch or lever a name rather than a number on the transmitter. The names and positions are different depending on the model type. Please note this when reading the manual. Mode 2 Example

Airplane

Pilot Lamp(LED)

Hovering pitching trim 【HV.P/LTRM】

Display: During transmission: Blue. During low output transmission: Blue, ﬂashing. When radio transmission is stopped: Red. Low battery voltage: Flashing

AUX2【AUX2 SW】

Hovering Throttle Trim【HV.T/RTRM】

Trainer Switch【TRN SW】

Glider

Gear Switch【GEAR SW】

Flight Mode Switch 【FMOD SW】

Aileron Dual rate Switch【AILE SW】 Throttle hold Switch 【HOLD SW】

Elevator Dual rate Switch 【ELEV SW】

Rudder Dual rate Switch 【RUDD SW】

AUX 3 Lever 【AUX3 LV】

Hi-Pitch Lever 【HPIT LV】

Throttle(Pitch) Rudder Stick

Elevator / Aileron Stick

Throttle Trim Rudder Trim

Elevator Trim Aileron Trim

Enter Key List Key Clear Key Function Key

Dial Main Power Switch

Display

Neck Strap Eyelet

Rear : Common type Carrying Handle

2.4GHz Antenna AUX 3 Lever 【AUX3 LV】

For Helicopter

Hi-Pitch Lever 【HPIT LV】

For Airplane/Glider

Flap Lever 【FLAP LV】

Trainer Jack Battery Box SD Card Slot Battery Cover

Battery Connector Charging Jack

to for a satellite receiver or such.

DMSS 2.4 GHz

The XG14 now uses JR’s DMSS 2.4-GHz radio frequency (RF) protocol. DMSS combines Direct Sequencing Spread Spectrum (DSSS) with Frequency-Hopping Spread Spectrum (FHSS) in a wideband transmission system. What this means in RC terms is the XG14 provides high-speed control response and low

For Mode 2 pilots, this is the radio’s controls layout. In our hands we think this transmitter is well designed in that you are not searching for switches, etc.

latency, but also excellent resistance to RF interference. The XG14 system also provides JR’s Intelligent Output System (IOS). IOS automatically selects control signals/channel priority for those channels that must transmit data at RC-SF.COM

▋Airplane Type

The names in square brackets 【】 are the abbreviated characters displayed on each setting screen.

Airplane

Pilot Lamp(LED)

Mode 2 Example

Flap trim【FLAP.T/RTRM】 Flap Switch【FLAP SW】 Trainer / Snap roll Switch 【TRN SW】/【SNAP SW】 Gear Switch【GEAR SW】

Display: During transmission: Blue. During low output transmission: Blue, ﬂashing. When radio transmission is stopped: Red. Low battery voltage: Flashing Glider

AUX Trim【AUX/LTRM】 AUX2 Switch【AUX2 SW】

If you are an airplane pilot, this is how the radio switches are configured. Note the switches all have soft covers on them for no-slip control toggling. The switches on the top right side of the radio are easy to reach. There is one two-position (rear) and one three-position switch.

Aileron Dual rate Switch【AILE SW】 Mixing Switch【MIX SW】

Elevator Dual rate Switch 【ELEV SW】

Rudder Dual rate Switch 【RUDD SW】

AUX 3 Lever 【AUX3 LV】

Flap Lever 【FLAP LV】

Throttle(Pitch) / Rudder Stick

Elevator / Aileron Stick

Throttle Trim Rudder Trim

Elevator Trim

Enter Key

Aileron Trim

List Key Clear Key

Dial

Function Key

Main Power Switch

Display Neck Strap Eyelet

▋Glider Type

The names in square brackets 【】 are the abbreviated characters displayed on each setting screen.

Pilot Lamp(LED)

Mode 2 Example

Flaperon Trim【FPRN/LTRM】 AUX2 Switch【AUX2 SW】 Trainer Switch【TRN SW】 Flight mode Switch 【FMOD SW】 Elevator Dual rate Switch 【ELEV SW】

Glider

Display: During transmission: Blue. During low output transmission: Blue, ﬂashing. When radio transmission is stopped: Red. Low battery voltage: Flashing

Flap Trim【FLAP.T/RTRM】 Gear Switch【GWAR SW】

Aileron Dual rate Switch【AILE SW】 Butterﬂy Switch【BTFL SW】 Rudder Dual rate Switch 【RUDD SW】

AUX 3 Lever 【AUX3 LV】

Flap Lever 【FLAP LV】

Spoiler/Rudder Stick

Elevator/Aileron Stick

Spoiler Trim

Rudder Trim

Elevator Trim

Enter Key

Aileron Trim

List Key Clear Key

Dial

Function Key

Main Power Switch

Display Neck Strap Eyelet

the same time. The data is therefore delivered as one signal frame! This is big stuff in that JR’s IOS ensures no time delay/latency for channels used for control surfaces, which may be cyclic/collective pitch mixing swashplate for a helicopter, or multiple-servo controlled flight surfaces for large-scale aircraft. 100

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TELEMETRY

DMSS also provides for dualstream, bi-directional telemetry information. DMSS in the JR system transmits telemetry information through a separate RF stream, rather than through the primary channel’s data stream. This means control channel update rates are

On the top left side is a monetary switch (rear) and a three-position switch. The carry handle is well placed such the radio is somewhat face down when lifted. Glider pilots will like the way the flight mode, butterfly, dual rate switches are laid out. The XG14 has flaperon trim as well as flap lever and spoiler control.

not impacted by the telemetry data, which can otherwise degrade the performance of critical control channels. Note too, receiver voltage telemetry data is displayed as a standard in every JR DMSS receiver. JR also offers add-on sensors for real-time feedback of model

JR XG14

At the front top left is one short threeposition and one long three-position switch. The trims are well placed as is the one trimmer above and to the right of the stick.

performance information, such as engine rpm for aircraft or helicopter rotor blades, temperature and altimeter readings, with more sensors to come in the near future.

GIMBALS

The XG14 has new CNC machined Premium aluminum gimbal bases. The gimbals provide ultra precise feel, which is what RC flying is all about. So, their precision engineering means you will feel connected and in control of your model at all times.

trims are well placed below and to the sides of the control sticks. The flap and AUX levers are comfortably placed also. Even at waist height the LCD screen is easy to read. And, the LCD screen makes it easy to see the the transmitter’s and the receiver’s

battery voltage. The two timers display just before the voltages, with the trims displaying at the bottom and centers of the screen. The airplane’s name is denoted by the model number and the name in the upper left corner of the display, with the type at the lower left just above the trims. The vertical roll selector is to the right of the LCD, while the four menu selection buttons are to the left. We like how you can easily create your own model lists—editing out program functions you won’t use. Many of the program functions are quick and easy to navigate, as well as set up program parameters. The LiFe battery is easy to access and remove if you should opt for having a spare battery. Also, the charge port is built into the lower left side of the case, which we especially like in that when the radio is being charged we can push it flush with the back of our workbench. If you will be using a trainer cord, you’ll find the cord’s port to be in the back of the radio, centered just above the battery compartment. Finally, the carrying handle lets

On the right top side of the transmitter is one control lever, which is ratcheted for positioning. The radio sits on its base very well, which is nice for charging.

On the left top side of the transmitter is one control lever, which is ratcheted also. The charge jack sits just above the base. You must remove the back to adjust stick tensions.

At the front top right is one short threeposition and one long three-position switch. The trims and trimmer are well placed. The gimbals are ultra smooth and precise.

IN YOUR HANDS

The first thing we noticed about the XG14 when we picked it up is how well it feels in your hands. The transmitter’s case is made such that your fingers wrap around the back of the case comfortably, which gives it a secure feeling in your hands. Next, it is a high quality case all around, with a chrom front, soft covered switches that are easy to reach, and rugged plastic case. The on/off switch is buried in a recess in the center of the radio that gives you easy access, yet is is protected from being inadvertantly turned off. We found the sticks to be short for our piloting preference, but in less than two minutes we had them adjusted to the height of our liking. The digital FOLLOW US ON TWITTER @RCSPORTFLYER

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We found the LCD display very easy to see, even in the bright sunshine. The Tx has four programming menu buttons, plus a rolling dial for scrolling and selecting.

you carry the radio with its face down just slightly.

PROGRAM INTERFACE

The XG14 transmitter comes with a 6.4-volt LiFe 1400-mAh battery pack. The charger is the 100–240 VAC type wall unit, with a 9-volt. 1.3-amp output.

Establishing program parameters is super easy. The interface is much like that of previous JR transmitters. You can enter the SYSTEM list by either holding down the vertical roll selector as you turn on the radio or using the L menu key to enter the LIST mode and then scrolling down to SYS. LIST. To get to the FUNCTION LIST you simply turn on the radio and then hit the L menu key. Programming is straighford from there. You simply scroll down through the functions and then select the one you wish to program. We will not get into a how-to program the transmitter in this review. However, stay tuned to future issues of RC Sport Flyer magazine to read our new radio programming series. In that series we will take you through some of the JR XG14’s programming functions and features in a step-by-step method.

COST

Pretty much the bottom line for any transmitter purchase comes down to dollars spent on functions and features. The new JR XG14 transmitter

Specifications

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Channels

True 14 channels (non shared)

Modulation

DMSS (Dual Modulation Spread Spectrum)

Band

2.4 GHz

Receiver

RG731BX 7ch X-Bus DMSS receiver w/ telemetry

Programming

Airplane, sailplane, helicopter

Model Memory

30 + SD memory card more and software updates

Modes

1, 2, 3, 4 user selectable

Tx Battery

6.4-volt 1400-mAh LiFe

Charger

A912C US/Japan (JRPC04008)

Rf Strength

Full range

JR XG14

When you turn on the radio this is the screen that displays. Note you get the information about the type, trims, Tx and Rx battery voltages, plus two timers T1 and T2.

Dual rate and exponential control is much like the previous JR radios. It includes the graph for setting the values as you would typically like them—it is straighforward programming.

The radio’s function list is pretty typical. You will need to step through each function one by one to set up your model, but navigation is extremely easy.

You’ll get many options for setting up the dual-rate switch positions. Note you’ll have the option of setting the control surface angles and curves independently of each other.

There is nothing new or unusual about setting the travel adjustments. You simply select the control function and then dial in the amount of travel your model needs.

The throttle curve can have a maximum of seven point positions. An EXPO function is provided to allow smooth throttle stick responses for each of the points.

The pitch curve offers seven points. Again, an EXPO is possible.This function works in each flight mode for helicopters (max 6), and for airplanes (max 2).

The XG14 provides five types of setting curves for each flight mode in its revolution mixing. It also offers intermediate points in each direction.

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JR XG14

In the governor menu you can set different rpm settings for separate flight modes. Navigating between different flight modes is as easy as using the rotatory selector.

X-Bus servos are programmed to use on their respective channels for communication between receiver and an individual servo. You’ll see the channels at this screen.

You will get to choose the wing type for your respective model at this screen. Note that the XG14 gives you four-aileron and six-aileron type configurations.

Here you see how the six-aileron configuration would be set up with respect to receiver channels and transmitter channels. It is a very intuitive process.

Again, the transmitter gives you the option of picking from different tail types, including for four-elevators, however, with X-Bus this could be expanded as needed.

As with the set up screen for the ailerons, you’ll get a graphic representation of what channels will control what function on your airplane or glider.

system sells for just $679.99 MAP. For this you get the transmitter, one of four RG type receivers, the wall charger, bind plug and instruction manual with this system. Compare this to what you would have paid for a top-of-line transmitter in 1980 and you’ll know this radio is bargain priced!

Distributor Times are super easy to set up in the XG14. Obviously, you can have count-down and count-up times. As you see, in this screen we have Timer 2 inhibited.

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JR Americas PO Box 8757 Champaign IL 61826-8757 Jramericas.com

BY Wil Byers

TAYLORCRAFT 26CC BNF

ITS CLIPPED WINGS MAKE IT MUCH MORE THAN A SPORT AIRPLANE

You will discover that the Hangar 9 Taylorcraft is a very nimble little, highwing airplane, and that its 26-cc gaspowered engine delivers plenty of thrust.

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RC SPORT FLYER — NOVEMBER 2013

Your BNF Taylorcraft comes packaged very well against being damaged during shipping, and you get everything you need for the model in one box.

aylorcraft Aviation is the manufacture of the full-scale Taylorcraft. They have been in business for about seventy years, and are known for producing single-engine, light airplanes. Taylorcraft’s original designer was a self-taught aeronautical engineer from England, Mr Clarence Taylor. Taylor’s company was formed in Rochester, New York in 1926 by Taylor and his brother Gordon. Note they used the slogan; “Buy Your Airplane Taylor Made.” Their first airplane was named the Chummy. It sold for $4,000. Unfortunately, Gordon died in a Taylor design in 1926, after which the company moved to Bradford, Pennsylvania— the townspeople provided a new factory and a $50,000 investment. One of the investors was William Thomas Piper—an oilman. Taylor and Piper shared the dream of making airplanes as common as the automobile. At his new location, Taylor abandoned the Chummy, in favor of the 1931 Taylor Cub. Taylor is often referred to as the father of private aviation in America because of this initial offering… A battle between Taylor and Piper ensued. While Taylor was absent from the company due to an illness, Piper instructed Taylor’s junior engineer Walter Jamouneau to modify the

HANGAR 9 TAYLORCRAFT 26CC BNF Taylor Cub to be more attractive and marketable. When Taylor returned he opted to leave the company. Taylor then vowed to build personal aircraft superior to the Piper’s. Taylor then formed the Taylor Aircraft This is how the Zenoah 26-cc gas-powered engine You’ll get all the parts and pieces you need to assemble Company in 1935, comes in the Hangar 9 Bind-N-Fly Taylorcraft kit. the Taylorcraft. To fly it all you’ll need is gas and oil which was renamed There is a little assembly, but not much. for the engine and a transmitter. Taylorcraft Aviation Corporation in 1939. color scheme that makes it extremely KIT CONTENTS The Taylorcraft is a conventional easy to see in flight. Plus, the BNF • Airframe: fuselage, wings, design like the Piper Cub. It is a version even includes a full-body pilot empennage two-seater, a high wing airplane that to make it a true scale airplane, but • Landing gear w/ wheel pants is fabric covered. The basic design without all the work of you having • Zenoah 26-cc engine has been unchanged since 1936, and to detail a cockpit. Control is by way • Six Spektrum® A6000 digital is sold today as a personal sport of Spektrum A6000 digital servos servos aircraft. throughout and a factory installed • AR8000 Spektrum receiver AR8000 receiver. • Scale tubular fuselage simulated HANGAR 9 CLIPPEDAs a Bind-N-Fly version, the w/ balsa and plywood WING TAYLORCRAFT model requires only three to five • Full-body pilot Hangar 9’s Taylorcraft is a hours to assemble and ready for • On/off motor switch clipped-wing version. The full-scale flight. What you’ll discover is the • UltraCote® trim scheme version was design for spritely Taylorcraft is a very complete kit less • Evolution propeller maneuverability and aerobatics. The a radio transmitter. The only other • CNC aluminum spinner Hangar 9 model is a Bind-N-Fly things you will need to fly it are • 36-page assembly manual (BNF) version! It comes powered by gasoline and two-cycle oil. a Zenoah 26-cc gasoline-powered engine. The model has an attractive

You will not find a prettier high-wing sport airplane anywhere. The finish detailing on this BNF kit is superb, from covering to cockpit and painted parts.

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Just take a look at this model! It has everything you could want in a BNF airplane: motor, propeller, receiver, servos, pilot...

The pilot figure comes as you see him here. He sits on a seat that is held in place in the cockpit by magnets, so it is easy to remove pilot and seat for access to components.

This is how the elevator, rudder and tailwheel connect to the Hangar 9 BNF Taylorcraft. It is very well designed, so it delivers excellent control.

NEEDED TO COMPLETE

• Six-plus-channel DSM2-compatible transmitter • Spektrum DX-18 used • Gasoline • Two-cycle oil

IN FLIGHT

I could go at nauseam about how much I enjoy flying the 80.5-in. Hangar 9 Taylorcraft. It is just a whole lot of fun to drive around the sky. The thing that separates this model from say a Hangar 9 Piper Cub is its maneuverability. Being a copy of the full-scale clipped wing Taylorcraft, the model gets the same maneuverability and aerobatics performance. Consequently, where the Piper Cub is a ton of fun to fly 108

RC SPORT FLYER — NOVEMBER 2013

The mirror image of the empennage’s control connections show the high quality parts that are used for this model—ground handling is superb.

because it is big and easy to pilot through maneuvers, the Taylorcraft adds just a bit more performance to any maneuver. As such, the Taylorcraft will do nice loops, rolls, hammerhead stall turns and it will fly inverted. The loops can be big and round, you just add power going up and pull it back on the down line. I found I could fly this model through continuous rolls; albeit you need to coordinate rudder with the elevator, especially using enough down elevator control during the inverted part of the roll. Hammerhead stall turns are a ton of fun to do with this model. You’ll want to fly a nice straight line going up and then just before the model runs out of speed add right or left rudder. The model will come over the top well.

Inverted flight is pretty easy, but you must add about 20 percent down elevator control to maintain—it really will depend on how you have your airplane set up; I like lots of elevator authority. The Zenoah® 26-cc gas-powered engine in combination with the Evolution® 16x6 propeller delivers plenty of thrust for brisk takeoffs, steep climbs and for maneuvering. The motor starts extremely well too, so you aren’t going to be struggling to get it fired up. Also, the Zenoah is not a gas hog, so you’ll get surprisingly long flights out of the model. Honestly, I did not time the flights to see how long it would fly, but I think you’ll be happy with its flight durations.

HANGAR 9 TAYLORCRAFT 26CC BNF From strut connections to ailerons’ linkages, this model is built to give you hours of trouble-free operation. Just look at that bright, checkboard patterned covering too.

Our Taylorcraft’s Zenoah 26-cc engine starts easily, idles well, throttles quickly and delivers all the power this model needs to give you hours of fun flying it.

You can remove the wings quickly and easily by pulling the clevis pins and their keepers. There is also a plastic srew that fastens the wing to the fuselage.

Takeoffs and landings are an absolute joy to do with the Taylorcraft. It does require right rudder compensation as you apply power and the model builds airspeed. What I found is by the time the airplane was ready to lift off I would be adding no rudder control. To land the Taylorcraft, all you’ll need to do is pull the power back to about 10 percent and let it “glide” down to the runway. I was pulling the power all the way back at about three feet off the grass, or even keeping it on just a bit until it touched the runway. Rudder control is very good all the way until the tailwheel touches. You should not have any trouble keeping this model going straight down the runway, even if you are landing it on grass. Finally, having that little pilot in the cockpit gave me the confidence that he was in control, and all I needed to do was drive it around the sky. No, seriously, he finishes the cockpit! FOLLOW US ON TWITTER @RCSPORTFLYER

What I think you will like about flying the Hangar 9 Taylorcraft is its sporty, aerobatic performance, which is quite an upgrade from say a Cub. RC-SF.COM

109

That two-inch checkerboard color scheme on the bottom of the wings, makes the Taylorcraft easy to see in the air, as well as keep good orientation with it as you fly it through some rolling circles—you can do them, right?

piloting fun out of at your RC airfield. Let me end by saying, if you had to buy the airframe, engine, propeller, servos, receiver, spinner and accessories you would have to pay a few hundred dollars more than the $1279.99 Hangar 9 asking price. So for what you get in this Bind-N-Fly kit it is a bargain priced model. Check it out at Hangar-9.com and see if you don’t agree with me.

Specifications

Here you get a good look at the fuselage’s color scheme. Again, it is such that it makes the model very easy to see in just about any orientation or maneuver.

HANGAR DEBRIEF

If you have a jam-packed schedule that does not let you spend hours in the workshop building model airplanes, the Hangar 9 26CC BNF Taylorcraft is a must buy airplane. It is very easy to assemble in only about three to five hours. You’ll like the motor/propeller combination, especially considering that it is gas powered. Additionally, the build quality of the airframe is superb in terms of wood, hardware, covering and paint. Plus you get a pilot figure thrown in to complete the cockpit. What is most important is that all the components of this model 110

RC SPORT FLYER — NOVEMBER 2013

You can do touch-n-go landings all day with this little airplane and not get tired of making them better and better with each landing—it is that much fun to fly.

come together to make it a truly super fun airplane to fly. From start, to takeoff, to landing this is an enjoyable model. As I’ve said many times before, I’m pretty much an intermediate powered-airplane pilot. That underscores how easy this model is to fly. Yeah, you can fly it on knife-edge and do some International Miniature Aircraft Club (IMAC) maneuvers with it, if you are so inclined, however, this model excels at being a true sport model—one designed for the masses of RC pilots. So, do not let those clipped wings put you off from buying this model. It is one you’ll get hours and hours of

Wingspan

80.5 in. (205 cm)

Overall Length

63.5 in. (161 cm)

Wing Area

1150 in.2 (74.5 dm 2)

Engine

Zenoah 26 cc

Propeller

Evolution 16x6

Spinner

2-1/2 in.

Fuel

Gasoline

Weight

14.0 – 14.5 lb (6.35 – 6.50 kg)

Flaps

None

Radio

6-channel min. DSM2 (DX-18 used)

Servos

(6) Spektrum® A6000 digital

Rx Battery

5-cell NiMH

Colors

White, black, true red, 2-in. red/white checkers

Price

$1279.99

Distributor Horizon Hobby 4105 Fieldstone Road Champaign, IL 61822 Phone: 217-352-1913 horizonhobby.com

HANGAR 9 TAYLORCRAFT 26CC BNF

Control throws The Taylorcraft is at home taking off from either grass or pavement. Also, notice the ease of access to the sparkplug and how cleanly the exhaust exits the cowl.

ASSEMBLY

Low (up/down)

High (in.)

Aileron

1 / 9/16

1-1/2 / 15/16-in 20%

Elevator

1-1/8 / 1-1/8

1-1/2 / 1-1/2

Rudder

1-7/8-inches 48mm 3-1/4

If you have three to five hours you can assemble this model without much effort. The 36-page manual will take you step-bystep through the few items you’ll need to do. You will start by attaching the landing gear to the fuselage’s body. That requires 16 button head cap screws. It should not take more than about 20 minutes at the most. The empennage’s assembly is next. Again, it is a few screws to attach the vertical fin and rudder to the horizontal stabilizer and elevator. Plus you’ll need to attached the tailwheel to the fuselage. Add another 20 minutes for this part. The manual has you installing the engine as the next step. You’ll need to bolt it to the firewall, route the fuel lines and the ignition switch and attach the muffler, as well as attach the throttle linkage to the carburetor. I recommend you use removable Loctite® for the mounting bolts. The engine install requires that you fasten the cowl to the airframe, and then install the propeller and spinner as the last step. Even with doing the tie wrapping and such, the engine install should only take you about an hour to complete. There are only a couple of things you’ll need to install in the FOLLOW US ON TWITTER @RCSPORTFLYER

Exponential 25% 25%

Center of Gravity 3-7/8 in. back of the wing’s leading edge at root

cockpit: the plywood floor, the pilot seat and pilot. This is only a 10 minute job. Attaching the wings to the fuselage requires you fasten the struts to the wings, install the carbon joiner rod, pull the servo wires into the fuselage, mate the wings to the fuselage and then attach the struts to the fuselage with their fasteners. This shouldn’t take more than about 30 minutes. There will be some adjustments required to all the mechanical linkages to get the control surfaces set properly. This is an important step in the build, so allow 30 minutes for tweaking all the controls so that are perfect for piloting style. You’ll probably spend another 20 minutes making certain the model’s center of gravity is set as per the instructions. We used our EZ Balancer (ezbalancer.com) for getting our models center of gravity adjusted properly. Finally, you’ll take another 30 minutes to program a transmitter to fly the Taylorcraft. If my math is right, you will have spent three hours and forty minutes assembling your Taylorcraft. Add another hour for scratching your head and you are still under five hours. RC-SF.COM

111

AeroWorks

aero-works.net

jramericas.com

105

Airborne Models

airborne-models.com

Maxx Products

maxxprod.com

APC Propellers

apcprops.com

Micro Fasteners

microfasteners.com

Blade

bladequad.com

OLE RC

olerc.com

Bob Smith Industries

bsi-inc.com

PowerBox

powerbox-systems.com

Bold Propellers

franktiano.com

Radio Carbon Art

radiocarbonart.com

Castle Creations

castlecreations.com

RTL Fasteners

rtlfasteners.com

Coldwell Banker

coldwellbanker.com

113

Smart-Fly

smart-fly.com

Desert Aircraft

desertaircraft.com

Soaring USA

soaringusa.com

Eagle Tree Systems

eagletreesystems.com

Spektrum

spektrumrc.com

115

E-flite

horizonhobby.com

ThunderPower

thunderpowerrc.com

116

Esprit Model

espritmodel.com

TruTurn

tru-turn.com

Evolution

evolutionengines.com

Washington Warbirds

rc-warbirdflyer.com

Hitec RCD

hitecrcd.com

WRAM Show 2014

wram.org

Hobby King

hobbyking.com

2, 3 8 40

5 21 114

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RC SPORT FLYER — NOVEMBER 2013

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Make the Tri-Cities, WA, Your Retirement Destination If you are a modeler nearing retirement, or planning a move in the near future, you should consider the Richland, Kennewick and Pasco area. You’ll discover the Tri-Cities is modeler-friendly and high-quality housing is extremely affordable.

When you are searching for your next home, consider the quality lifestyle that the Tri-Cities can afford you! Discover how much the Tri-Cities has to offer you and your family in superb living opportunities. Let me show you what you may be missing.

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AC/DC Input, Professional Balance Charger, Discharger

DC/DC Input, Professional Balance Charger, Discharger

Charging your batteries is just a simple touch away with the X1 Touch and X1-200 Touch multi-chemistry chargers. Both feature a 3.2-inch, high-resolution touch screen and will efficiently charge your NiMH, NiCd, LiPo, LiFe, Li-Ion and lead-acid batteries. The X1 Touch is equipped with a built-in AC/DC power supply, 55-watt charge port and internal balancing circuit. If you need more power, the DC/DC X1-200 Touch features 200 watts of charging power and optimized operating software. Get the Hitec touch and let your fingers do the charging!

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DX9 Talk Isn’t Cheap. It’s Priceless. NEW SpEktrum™ DX9 9-ChaNNEl traNSmittEr With voice alErtS Keep tabs on telemetry and transmitter functions without ever taking your eyes off what you’re flying. Also features wireless buddy box system and forward programming. Want to hear more? Go to spektrumrc.com right now for complete details and to find the Spektrum retailer near you.

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