RC Sport Flyer Dec 2013 (Vol 18-12)

RC Airplanes | Gliders | Helicopters

MASTER’S LEARN THE SECRETS OF

P38

WEATHERING

NEW X1-200 TOUCH CHARGER

PUMPS POWER! PLUS

RC-SF.COM

DS-16 Programming Helicopters 101 How To Wipers Drone Rescue

DECEMBER 2013

USA & CANADA $6.49

• • • •

TABLE OF CONTENTS DEPARTMENTS

10 LEADING EDGE 12 HOT PRODUCTS

OUR EXPERT EXPLAINS HOW TO PROGRAM YOUR RADIO FOR MULTI-ENGINE AIRCRAFT.

96 ADVERTISERS’ INDEX 97 MYSTERY AIRPLANE

PG 44

BUILD

24

BEAUFIGHTER TEST FLIGHT DAVE EXPLAINS HOW HE PREPARED HIS MODEL FOR THE TOP GUN 2013 EVENT.

By Dave Wigley

32

HOW TO

44

FUSELAGE COVER READ THIS ARTICLE TO LEARN THE TRICKS OF AN EXPERT ON FUSELAGE COVERING.

By Jeff Troy

38

TOM SHOWS YOU PROGRAMNMING TIPS FOR YOUR MULTI-ENGINE AIRCRAFT.

By Tom Wolf

50 AEROBATICS PART 9

56

LEARN THIS NEW CROWD-PLEASING 3D MANEUVER, THE ALL-NEW VORTEX.

By Daniel Holman

DEGREASING THE GREASIES THIS IS THE INSIDE SCOOP ON GETTING GREASE AND GRIME OFF YOUR AIRPLANE.

By Jeff Troy

PG 50

THE ART OF WEATHERING THESE MASTER BUILDERS EXPLAIN HOW TO CREATE CONTEST-WINNING WEATHERING.

By Rob Caso Dave Wigley

PG 24 6

MULTI-ENGINE SETUP

RC SPORT FLYER . DECEMBER 2013

58

HOW TO WIPERS WE SHOW HOW WIPERS CAN GIVE YOUR SAILPLANE A PERFORMANCE BOOST.

By Wil Byers

DECEMBER 2013

COLUMN

62

E-POWER

74

HELICOPTERS 101

SEE WHY POWER TO THE PROPELLER IS ABOUT GETTING CURRENT TO FLOW.

By Andrew Gibbs

68

FPV RESCUE HOBBYISTS DEMONSTRATE UAV SYSTEMS TO THE PUBLIC SAFETY COMMUNITY.

By Lucidity

DISCOVER HOW PILOTING RC HELICOPTERS REQUIRES A DIFFERENT SET OF SKILLS.

By Dave Phelps

78

FLIGHT MODES LEARN HOW EASY IT IS TO SET UP FLIGHT MODES IN YOUR DC-16 TRANSMITTER.

By Wil Byers

PG 84

PG 74

THIS REVIEW UNDERSCORES HOW EASY THIS NEW MULTI-CHARGE IS TO USE.

REVIEW

84

HITEC X1-200 TOUCH WE SHOW YOU HOW EASY THIS NEW MULTICHARGE IS TO USE.

By Wil Byers

88

BLADE CX4 HELI TAKE A LOOK AT A GREAT LITTLE COAXIAL HELICOPTER FOR YOUR NEXT RC BUY.

By RC-SF Staff

PG 88 PG 78 RC-SF.COM

7

RC SPORT FLYER MAGAZINE

RC Airplanes | Gliders | Helicopters

P80 1/4-SCALE SUPER CUB GETS E-POWER

CUBS N’ COUSINS 2013 EXCLUSIVE EVENT REPORT H HANGAR 9 1/4-SCALE SUPER CUB H FIRST PERSON VIEW EXPLAINED

THE RC AIRCRAFT PILOTS AND BUILDERS MAGAZINE

Exclusive Event Report Cubs n’ Cousins 2013

Airborne Models’ 1/3-scale Clipped Wing Cub hovers on power from a DA-100 engine

PUTS YOU

IN THE ACTION TESTED

NOVEMBER 2013 VOLUME 18 ISSUE 11

O.S. GF40 4-Stroke Gas Engine NEW JR XG14 Transmitter Moswey Glider

USA & CANADA $6.49

A 26-CC POWERED TAYLORCRAFT

That is Bind-N-Fly Fun!

RC-SF.COM NOVERMBER 2013

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EDITOR IN CHIEF Wil Byers wil@rc-sf.com ASSISTANT EDITORS Caroline Minard Bess Byers Lucy Teng Asa Clinton PRODUCTION Zhe Meng mengzhe@kionapublishing.com PHOTOGRAPHY Wil Byers Bess Byers GRAPHIC DESIGNERS Zhe Meng Bess Byers Shi Yuang graphics@rc-sf.com WEBMASTER CONTACT Chang Liang web@kionapublishing.com OFFICE MANAGER/ Sue Wharton CIRCULATION support@kionapublishing.com OFFICE ASSISTANT Sue Wharton CIRCULATION Christian Wells MARKETING Wil Byers Sue Wharton ads@rc-sf.com CONTRIBUTING EDITORS Rob Caso, Gene Cope, Andrew Gibbs, Daniel Holman, Mike Hoffmeister, Richard Kuns, Joe Nave, David Phelps, Steve Rojecki, Gary Ritchie, Mike Shellim, Patrick Sherman, Jerry Smith, Jeff Troy, James VanWinkle RC Sport Flyer (ISSN: 1941-3467) is published monthly for $24.95 per year by Kiona Publishing, Inc., P.O. Box 4250, W. Richland, WA 99353-4004. Periodicals postage paid at Richland, WA and additional mailing offices.

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CONTRIBUTIONS: Articles and photographs are welcome, but cannot be considered unless guaranteed exclusive. When requested we will endeavor to return all materials in good condition if accompanied by return postage. RC Sport Flyer assumes no responsibility for loss of or damage to editorial contributions received. Any material accepted is subject to possible revision at the discretion of the publisher. Publisher assumes no responsibility for accuracy of content. Opinions of contributing authors do not necessarily reflect those of the publisher.

RC Sport Flyer will retain author’s rights, title to and interest in the editorial contributions as described above in both print and electronic media unless prior arrangement has been made in writing. Payment for editorial materials will be made at our current rate. Submission of editorial material to RC Sport Flyer expresses a warranty by the author that such material is in no way an infringement upon the rights of others. The contents of this magazine may not be reprinted traditionally or electronically without permission of the publisher.

Copyright ©2013 All rights reserved.

Printed in the USA

8

RC SPORT FLYER . DECEMBER 2013

Phoenix Edge series ESCs are intended for use in helicopters ranging from 450 to 800 size, and up to 1.20 size fixed wing aircraft.

The all new Vertigo line of heli motors is available for sizes 450, 500, 550, 600 and 700 class helis and offer superior quality and performance.

LEADING EDGE

WIL BYERS

I

f you don’t know who Alex Clare, Emeli Sandé, Crystal Castles, deadmau5, Katy Perry, Lumineers, Neon Indian, Macklemore, Major Lazer, OneRepublic, Phillips Phillips, Pink!, ZZ Ward and many other artists are, you’ll likely not understand this month’s cover. Then too, if you aren’t hashtagging with the # symbol, or following with the @ sign, you’ll probably not understand where we are going with this very generationally-targeted cover image. Not to worry, we do!

This month’s cover is meant to provide, in some measure, a paradigm shift for RC Sport Flyer. It is also meant to underscore the absolutely monumental diversity that currently exists in the hobby. It is, moreover, about being more inclusive of the fine young people that are flying RC aircraft. They are, after all, the future of the sport.

This month’s cover is targeting the pilots who possibly are listening to Macklemore or Major Lazer while they fly their models straight down the runway—doing so while their airplane is in knife-edge flight just a foot or so off the pavement. They are also the pilots snapping a photo of their airplane and then posting it to Instagram, Facebook or Twitter, with the hashtag #RCSF. Truly, they are hashtagging their images, in the social media world, with tags that will have their airplanes, helicopters and gliders being seen by thousands of other young RCers at that point in time, as well as long into the future.

To say they understand the value of social media and how to get their RC hobby in front of thousands of other pilots, is an understatement. These RCers are the generation that grew up with iPhones and iPods. They knew how to text a friend most likely before they were out of first grade. They knew what Facebook was and how to use it to create social networks long before many of us “old timers” started posting photos of our models online.

So it is that these are the RC enthusiasts who will shape the future of the sport. They are the ones who will be piloting UAVs for the military. They are the RCers who will

become aeronautical engineers, airline pilots, air traffic controllers, private pilots, etc. They are the future of RC. That is why this month’s cover is wholly designed to get their attention when they are browsing for magazines at hobby shops and newsstands. And, as our distributor tells us, there is no better way to do so than to put a pretty face on the cover.

I’ll end my explanation for the cover by saying we always endeavor to provide content for pilots of all generations.

We certainly want to give pilots, young and old, what they need and want to make their hobby more fun and enjoyable.

FOLLOW US RC Sport Flyer is now on Instagram. We’ll post new products, behind the scenes photo shoots as well as RC airfield adventures. You may follow us there at @ RCSportFlyer. Follow us and be entered to win a four-year subscription or other valuable prizes.

Hashtag your photos #RCSF to show us what airplanes you’re flying too. Who knows, we might even feature your photo in the next issue of the magazine. So, stay tuned for upcoming social media contests. Don’t forget to hit the blue “follow” button on Instagram to be entered to win, and to join us today!”

NEW LOOK As you’ve probably already noticed, RC Sport Flyer got somewhat of a facelift. I’ve been thinking about one too. However, rather than go under the knife, I asked the designer to give the magazine a new look for 2014 and beyond.

Note too we’re adding a radio programming column to this issue, as well as subsequent issues. We’re doing so because it is the most ask-for reader request. So, if you have a question about radio programming, please send me an e-mail about your need. I’ll do my best to make certain we answer your programming questions.

Know we made these design and content changes to make the magazine easier to read, a bit more engaging and to give it a better overall flow. Let us know what you think of the changes we’ve incorporated into this “rag,” and if they enhanced your reading experience for RC-SF.

SIGN UP today

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You’ll get all the inside scoop on what’s happening in the RC world, as well as in the industry.

The newsletter is absolutely FREE! So, tell all your RC buddies to sign up, even if they live on the other side of the world. We’ll make certain they get their newsletter every other week.

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2

RC SPORT FLYER . DECEMBER 2013

Then click on the news tab.

It is easy and FREE!

HOT PRODUCTS GRAUPNER/SJ POLARON DUALCHANNEL CHARGERS

Distributor Graupner/SJ Phone: 619-578-8189 openhobby.com

T

he new Graupner/SJ Polaron chargers are designed for optimized battery charging. Sporting a 3-in. high-resolution touch screen and an attractive case, Polaron chargers make battery charging easy.

The Polaron line of chargers are available in various power configurations starting with the Polaron Sports, Polaron Pro, Polaron EX and Polaron AC/DC. They provide for dual-channel operation, capable of charging LiPo, NiMH, NiCd, LiFe, Li-Ion, and Lead Acid batteries. They have charge rates of up to 20 amps per channel depending on the model. Each charger channel can store up to 20 battery configurations.

Depending on the model, the Polaron chargers provide a standard servo and motor tester as well as a USB charging port. For the serious RC user the Polaron charger adds a built-in LiPo and car wheel warmer function.

All of the Polaron chargers are firmware upgradeable with optional PC communication that allow monitoring and data logging. All required cables and balancing boards are included, as is a temperature sensor for battery safety monitoring.

Price $159.99

Specifications Length Width Height Main Rotor Diameter Tail Rotor Diameter Weight (w/o Battery)

THUNDER TIGER MINI TITAN E360 BRUSHLESS 3D HELI ARF

I

f you are a 3D airplane pilot, the new Mini Titan E360 has been stretched to handle longer blades and a 4S LiPo battery pack. This model features factory-set flybarless system, with a torque-tube driven system that delivers crisp tail rotor response. And, most of the helicopter’s assembly is factory done—you only need to install a 4S LiPo pack and a receiver to ready it for flight.

Features • 95 percent factory assembled • Flybarless metal main rotor hub and grip

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RC SPORT FLYER . DECEMBER 2013

• • • • • • •

27.2 in. (690 mm) 4.9 in. (125 mm) 7.6 in. (193 mm) 31.5 in. (800 mm) 6.1 in. (156 mm) 25.4 oz (720 g)

Distributor Great Planes P.O. Box 9021 Champaign, IL 61821 Phone: 800-637-7660 greatplanes.com

120° eCCPM swashplate Ace RC® 2700 Kv brushless motor and 50-amp ESC Factory preset Ace RC GT5.1 flybarless system with digital servos 13.8-in. (350 mm) main rotor blades Lightweight machined metal tail case Carbon main frames and servo mounts Rigid 0.1-in. (1.3 mm) pitch control linkage rod

Mini Titan E360 3D Heli ARF w/blades (TTRE0034) $449.99

Distributor

ALIGN RC USA T-REX 450L

Common Sense RC PO Box 3546 Chatsworth, CA 91313 Phone: 818-718-1893 commonsenserc.com

T

he new Super Combo DOMINATOR T-REX 450L introduces new innovations and eye-catching design. Its performance promises to deliver pilots to the winner’s circle.

It comes equipped with the most powerful 6S voltage system that is paired with a 460MX motor and RCE-BL45X ESC to provide superb efficiency and extreme torque output. The helicopter is equipped with 360-mm 3G main rotor blades, and 3G tail blades. The new digital DS430M servos provide high torque, speed and performance to give that in-control feel. The DOMINATOR incorporates a new frame design and battery mount rail. It also has a sexy new paint scheme.

Distributor

COMMON SENSE RC PREDATOR 4-CH RTF JET QUADCOPTER W/ 2.4-GHZ

Align RC USA 3626 Briggeman Drive Los Alamitos, CA 90720 Phone: 562-598-4700 alignrcusa.com

T

his Predator, foam-bodied, jet quadcopter hybrid is unlike any jet. You get the benefits of easier directional navigation and the maneuverability of a quadcopter. Its four motors are insulated by thick EPP foam, which equals durability and bounceability.

Plus, this airplane offers different controls specifically designed to meet a pilot’s skill level, so both beginners and experienced pilots can enjoy flying it. The landing gear allows for rolling takeoffs, or you can handlaunch it like a parkflyer!

Features • Extremely durable • Foam body protects the rotor blades • Fast response for “Normal” flying mode • Slow response for “Easy” flying mode • Pre-installed landing gear • Charges via any USB port • No assembly required Predator Quadcopter w/ 2.4-GHz Radio (QUAD-PL1) $79.95

Distributor

ESPRIT MODEL PULSAR 2E PRO

Esprit Model 1240 Clearmont St NE, Unit 12 Palm Bay, FL 32905 Phone: 321-729-4287 espritmodel.com

T

he new Pulsar 2E Pro has been developed as an improved version of the Pulsar 2000 M. The wing is a built-up carbon fiber D-box design that utilizes carbon fiber faced balsa ribs and a carbon fiber strip trailing edge. The trailing edges of the wing are covered with Ultracote®. The fuselage is gel-coated fiberglass with carbon fiber reinforcement. Hand-built tail surfaces are made of laminated carbon/ balsa strips covered in Ultracote. All control surfaces come fully pre-hinged with Kevlar® tape. The Pulsar electric-powered sailplane requires only basic assembly.

It is designed for minimum weight and maximum strength. The careful use of composites, combined with an underlying wood structure in the wing, ensures a strong, lightweight structure. The Pulsar is optimized for light lift conditions and minimum sinking speed. You should investigate this airplane if you are looking for advanced performance in a hand-made electric-powered sailplane.

RC-SF.COM

13

HOT PRODUCTS

COMMON SENSE RC VOICE CONTROLLED COAXIAL MINI HELICOPTER

T

his voice-controlled 3.5-channel mini helicopter is designed for fun!

It uses a headset that lets you tell this helicopter how and where you want it to fly. It’s programmed to respond to eight different voice commands, and can also accept voice commands and commands from the transmitter simultaneously. It features a durable metal frame, so you can practice without having to worry about destroying it.

It comes ready to fly—you’ll need (6) AA batteries for the transmitter. Its battery is charged via a USB port— laptop, desktop, car or even your smart phone charger.

Distributor Common Sense RC PO Box 3546 Chatsworth, CA 91313 Phone: 818-718-1893 commonsenserc.com

Voice Controlled Mini Helicopter (HELI-VCNTR) $49.95

ESPRIT MODEL PULSAR 2S PRO

T

he Pulsar 2S Pro Competition is the latest addition to the evergrowing Pulsar family of hand-made competition/sport sailplanes. The wing employs a built-up carbon fiber D-box design, that utilizes carbon fiber faced balsa ribs and carbon fiber strip trailing edges. The rear section of the wing is covered in Ultracote®. The fuselage pod is made of Kevlar®, with the canopy and tail boom made of carbon fiber. The hand-built tail is made from laminated carbon/balsa strips covered with Ultracote. Its control surfaces come pre-hinged with Kevlar tape. The sailplane is an ARF that only requires radio installation.

The use of composites, combined with an underlying wood structure in the wing, ensures a good lightweight structure that makes for a strong competition model.

Distributor Esprit Model 1240 Clearmont St NE, Unit 12 Palm Bay, FL 32905 Phone: 321-729-4287 espritmodel.com

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RC SPORT FLYER . DECEMBER 2013

ALIGN RC USA T-REX 600E PRO DFC COMBO

A

lign’s new T-REX 600E PRO DFC Combo version is coming to the market soon. It offers superb power and precise maneuver control because of its new 3GX flybarless system V4.0. It is equipped with an explosive 750MX motor and a new performance booster set, which delivers consistent power throughout the flight duration.

The 600E PRO DFC has a patented frame design, unique battery latch assembly for quick battery changes and easier maintenance. And, the 600E includes an ingenious modern art designed paint scheme.

Distributor Align RC USA 3626 Briggeman Drive Los Alamitos, CA 90720 Phone: 562-598-4700 alignrcusa.com

T

he Swift S-1, which first flew in 1991, is a development of Polish manufacturer Marganski & Myslowski located in Bielsko-Biala. Although it has been described as a single-place all purpose sailplane, the Swift S-1 is optimized for aerobatics, with a clearance of +10/-10 G. The landing gear is retractable, and approach control is assisted by Schempp-Hirth airbrakes.

This sailplane won the World Glider Aerobatic Championships in France, 1995. Shortly after the Championships ended, promotional flights were arranged to enable top pilots to fly this aircraft.

The model is everything that the full-scale offers. It is a super soaring model, but is truly at home when flown in slope lift. There, pilots can really wring this machine out, doing point rolls, inside and outside loops as well as sustained inverted flight. This is a machine that will truly delight any pilot looking for aerobatic performance in a glider optimized for such.

ESPRIT MODEL SWIFT S-1

Distributor Esprit Model 1240 Clearmont St NE, Unit 12 Palm Bay, FL 32905 Phone: 321-729-4287 espritmodel.com

COMMON SENSE RC MINI HELICOPTERS W/ CAMERA Distributor Common Sense RC PO Box 3546 Chatsworth, CA 91313 Phone: 818-718-1893 commonsenserc.com

T

hese mini helicopters and quadcopters feature a tiny removable onboard camera. The camera shoots high-quality video and pictures at 480p (640x480 pixels).

Both models are extremely stable, so your media comes out clear and steady every time. The camera records 15–18 minutes of video and features a pivoting head that can be adjusted to different recording angles. All of the control buttons are on the transmitter. You can export the files to a computer in seconds—just remove the micro-SD card from the

camera, insert into the included USB card reader, plug into your computer and download!

Features • Transmitter controls for pictures/video • Stable video • Shoots at 480p (640x480) • Lightweight design for durability • Charges via any USB port • Ready to Fly Mini Heli (HELI-CAMERA1) $64.95 Quadcopter (QUAD-CAM1) $119.95 RC-SF.COM

15

HOT PRODUCTS

JETI USA JETI CENTRAL BOX 200 POWER DISTRIBUTION UNIT

T

he Central Box 200 is a switchboard designed for the management of servos in a model, with an emphasis on safety. The Central Box has a unique design that provides overload protection at each servo output.

The Central Box can manage up to two batteries and supports the Jeti EX telemetry system. Up to two receivers, with serial (PPM, EX Bus) output, as well as two power batteries may be connected simultaneously to the Central Box for complete Power & RF signal redundancy. With Jeti Duplex 2.4-GHz DC/DS transmitters, the full potential of the Central Box is available, such as an easy way to wirelessly configure the servo outputs, EX telemetry, fail-safe setting or fast servo response.

Distributor Esprit Model 1240 Clearmont St NE, Unit 12 Palm Bay, FL 32905 Phone: 321-729-4287 espritmodel.com

TACTIC TR624 AND TR625 6-CHANNEL RX 2-PACKS

S

avings and performance go hand-inhand with 2-packs of Tactic TR624 and TR625 receivers. Installing Tactic 6-channel SLT receivers can make a big difference in performance—and modelers can now also enjoy significant price reductions when purchasing them in convenient pairs.

Features • The full-range TR624 offers optimum reception for electric park flyers up to sport models.

• The TR625 works well in everything from park flyers all the way to giant-scale, plus all sizes of helicopters.

• The TR625 features twin antennas that provide excellent signal clarity.

TR624 6-Ch 2.4-GHz Rx 2-Pack (TACL0623) $37.99 TR625 6-Ch 2.4-GHz Dual Antenna Rx 2-Pack (TACL0626) $47.99

Distributor Great Planes P.O. Box 9021 Champaign, IL 61821 Phone: 800-637-7660 greatplanes.com

16

RC SPORT FLYER . DECEMBER 2013

A

ALIGN RC USA RCE-MT9 MULTIFUNCTION TESTER

lign just introduced their new metal shapely reinforcement plate and brace assembly. This CNC metal reinforcement plate and brace effectively increase the torsional strength of the Align helicopter’s main frame during extreme 3D maneuvers. You can feel a difference because of the solid reinforcement to your aircraft’s structure. It is an attractive, machined aluminum part that is electroplated red. It is designed for the 850MX motor assembly.

Plate and Brace Assembly (H70B002XX) $46.99

Distributor Align RC USA 3626 Briggeman Drive Los Alamitos, CA 90720 Phone: 562-598-4700 alignrcusa.com

ESPRIT MODEL FULL BODY SCALE PILOTS Distributor

T

hese European handcrafted, fully dressed, full bodied pilots are the perfect addition to your scale project. Their plush, scale body is completely adjustable and can be rearranged to fit your model’s cockpit requirements. The pilots come dressed in a combination of handmade clothes, shoes and hats.

There are four different styles, (Retro 1, Retro 2, Military, and Glider) and three different sizes of each style.

ESPRIT MODEL SUPER SPORT 2.35S/E AND SUPER SPORT 3S/E

COMMON SENSE RC LECTRON PRO 11.1-VOLT, 2200MAH 50C W/ EC3 CONNECTOR

T

he new Top Model’s Super Sport from Esprit Model is a beautiful combination of classic design and modern technology.

Its nostalgic shape marries with modern materials to create an electric-powered sailplane that performs as well. The white gel-coated fiberglass fuselage mates to the high-tech carbon fiber main spar wings and carbon/balsa built up tail surfaces. With its flap-equipped, two- or three-piece wings and full flying elevator the Super Sport is an impressive glider. Esprit says that each part is carefully handcrafted, with meticulous attention to detail.

Esprit Model 1240 Clearmont St NE, Unit 12 Palm Bay, FL 32905 Phone: 321-729-4287 espritmodel.com

T

he Lectron 3-cell 2200-mAh 50C LiPo includes an EC3 connector on the discharge leads, which is perfect for the Blade 350 QX and 450, Parkzone T-28 Trojan, F-27Q Stryker, Extra 300, Spitfire, F4U-A1 Corsair and more models. It is rated and has been tested at 110 amps continuous discharge.

Distributor Esprit Model 1240 Clearmont St NE, Unit 12 Palm Bay, FL 32905 Phone: 321-729-4287 espritmodel.com

Lectron Pro 11.1V, 2200-mAh (3S2200-50-EC3) $36.95

Distributor Common Sense RC PO Box 3546 Chatsworth, CA 91313 Phone: 818-718-1893 commonsenserc.com RC-SF.COM

17

HOT PRODUCTS

HITEC HS-40

H

itec RCD tells us their engineers have worked tirelessly to develop new servo technology that outperforms the competition. Their new HS-40 nano analog servo delivers too according to the specifications…

With a three-pole cored motor and resilient nylon gears, this affordable servo is designed for micro aircraft, sailplane and helicopter aircraft. It is slightly larger than the popular HS-35HD and has a voltage input range of 4.8 to 6.0 volts. The HS-40 is a solid performer that is easy on your wallet as well.

Features • Nylon gears • Three-pole motor • 4.8- to 6.0-volt operation

Distributor Hitec 12115 Paine Street Poway, CA 92064 Phone: 858-748-6948 ext. 317 hitecrcd.com

4.8 VOLTS 6.0 VOLTS Speed Torque Speed Torque Part# Dimensions Weight 8.4 oz-in 10.5 oz-in 0.79 x 0.34 x 0.67 in 0.17 oz HS-40 0.12 sec/60° 0.10 sec/60° 31040S 0.60 kg-cm 0.75 kg-cm 20.0 x 8.6 x 17.0 mm 4.8 g

Model

HS-40 (31040) $8.99

JETI USA DSM 10 JETI ELECTRONIC SWITCH DUAL REDUNDANT W/ MAGNETIC KEY

Distributor

T

he DSM 10 from Jeti is dual input, redundant electronic switch designed to operate with a magnetic key. The advantage of an electronic switch is that it offers virtually unlimited ON/OFF cycles, unlike mechanically operated switches. The redundant DSM 10 switch automatically monitors and switches between two power supplies (Rx batteries) keeping the remote controlled airplane’s system operational.

Esprit Model 1240 Clearmont St NE, Unit 12 Palm Bay, FL 32905 Phone: 321-729-4287 espritmodel.com

R

ealFlight 7 takes simulation to a whole new level! It simplifies setup and puts more fun into flying.

Three editions of RF7 are now available: RealFlight with the acclaimed, Futaba®-made InterLink® Elite; with a real Tactic® TTX600 transmitter and interface unit; or with the interface only, for use with your transmitter. Each edition has an extensive lineup of over 90 planes, 30 helicopters and 40 PhotoField and 3D flying sites. Buying any RealFlight 7 gives you savings of over $250 on models depicted in the simulator too!

The popular 8-channel controller in the RF7 InterLink Elite Edition has functions similar to those found on high-quality transmitters—plus conveniences engineered especially for RealFlight, such as a built-in transmitter interface and Reset/Rewind button for recovering instantly from crashes and reviewing their cause. QuickSelect™ keeps your hands on the sticks when choosing software settings, instead of reaching for the keyboard and mouse. The InterLink Elite needs no batteries.

The RF7 Tactic Tx-R Edition is especially perfect for new RC modelers because they can learn to fly with RealFlight. They can then fly any model aircraft equipped with a Tactic SLT receiver, including over 30 Tx-R aircrafts. Like the InterLink Elite controller, the interface unit also has the popular Reset button.

Experienced pilots who’d like to fly RealFlight using their transmitter can now choose a lower-priced option without the controller. RF7 Transmitter Interface Edition comes with the sim software and interface unit. New menus in the software make it fast and easy to configure RealFlight for flying with most popular transmitters.

RF7 w/InterLink Elite Controller Mode 2 (GPMZ4500 ) $179.99

18

RC SPORT FLYER . DECEMBER 2013

GREAT PLANES REALFLIGHT 7

Distributor Great Planes P.O. Box 9021 Champaign, IL 61821 Phone: 800-637-7660 greatplanes.com

ICARE MAGELLAN 110

T

he Magellan 110 electric-powered sailplane is setting a new milestone in thermal duration gliders. This glider is very competitive and affordably priced. It is designed for F5J and ALES competition. It uses a molded carbon fiber D-box technology. Its construction results in a very strong, lightweight wing and a very accurate airfoil shape over the leading edge.

Icare tells us these features, combined with an overall easy handling, results in a sailplane that will allow you to work small, lowlevel thermals with confidence.

The Magellan 110, is the big brother of the Magellan XL. It has a larger wingspan and longer fuselage, which makes for a well-balanced airframe. The fuselage design provides space for a LiPo battery and for a brushless outrunner motor. The design of the fuselage is made of Kevlar/carbon cloth, for extreme strength, stiffness and lightness.

The V-tail is a hybrid construction of Kevlar/carbon, with molded leading edges and carbon reinforced balsa ribs, which gives a strong yet very lightweight tail. The V-tail is in two pieces and is removable. The V-tail’s servos are installed under the wing, actuating the control surfaces by pushrods. The V-tail’s control horns are supplied.

The Magellan 110 comes built, except for radio and motor installation. The whole wing is a glass/carbon D-box construction, even the trailing edges, which improves the stiffness of the wing. Its ailerons and flaps are molded glass/carbon and are Kevlar hinged. The two-piece wing is completely finished and covered in Oracover® Light. The fuselage comes complete with a trimmed canopy, wing hold-down block. The model is controlled by six sub-micro servos and a micro receiver.

The model is powered by a Mega 16/30/3E (only 135 g). It provides 400–650 watts of power, depending on propeller size.

Distributor ICARE/ICARUS 890 ch. D’Anjou, Unit 1 Boucherville, QC, J4B 5E4 Canada Phone: 450-449-9094 icare-rc.com

Specifications

GRAUPNER/SJ MZ HOTT VOICE TELEMETRY TRANSMITTER SET

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elemetry is the future of RC interfaces. So, the future is HoTT (Hopping Telemetry Transmission) from Graupner/SJ. Building on the award winning MX and MC line of radios, the new MZ series is the perfect answer to the beginner’s need for ease of use as well as the advanced RC pilot’s need for reliability, performance and realtime telemetry information.

The new mz-18 (9 ch) and mz-24 (12 ch) radios provide the latest 3.5-in. TFT color touch display for easy programming and display of telemetry data. The built-in speaker provides Smart Voice Telemetry Announcements and also supports user created MP3 files.

The Graupner/SJ MZ HoTT radios have been designed from the ground up to provide seamless telemetry functions through all phases of flight. Telemetry triggers and announcements can be programmed through assignable switches. The product is supplied with two receivers, GR-24 HoTT 12-ch and GR-12L HoTT 6-ch, each with telemetry, monitoring receiver voltage, temperature and signal performance. The optional telemetry sensors can provide extensive flight information such as altitude, GPS, current, voltage, vario, single-cell voltage, rpm and more.

Programming the 30-model-memory MZ radio and telemetry modules is done using a touch screen and graphical airframe

Wingspan Wing area Wing airfoil Wing loading Flying weight Receiver Servos Motor

110 in. (2.8 m) 775 in.2 (50 dm2) MH-32 mod.

9 oz/ft2 (30 g/dm2) 49 – 63 oz (1.4 – 1.6 kg) Micro Sub-micro Mega 16/30/3E, Mega 3S

configuration icons similar to a SmartPhone. The model setup wizard assists the pilot with fast setup of airplane, helicopter or sailplane. Setting and configuring the HoTT receiver and optional modules is done on the radio using the HoTT Over-The-Air Setup interface. The unit includes a Wireless Buddy Box. Reliability is enhanced through FHSS frequency hopping via up to 75 channels, broad channel spread, aerial diversification and intelligent data transfer with correction function. Performance is accomplished using a 32-bit controller. For extra reliability and functionality, two receivers can operate in parallel.

The MZ radio series is also available as an entry level set for beginners (mz-10 5-ch and mz-12 6-ch).

The mz-18 and mz-24 come with a metal carrying case with USB cable, GR-24 HoTT 12-ch and GR-12L 6-ch receiver, transmitter charger, 2000-mAh NiMH battery (mz-18), 4000-mAh LiPo (mz-24), SD card adapter, SD card case, 4GB SD card, English manual, neck strap and USB programming adapter.

Distributor

mz-18 mz-24

$389 $499

Graupner/SJ Phone: 619-578-8189 openhobby.com RC-SF.COM

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HOT PRODUCTS

PRECISION AEROBATICS ADDICTION XL

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he new Addiction XL is an addition to Precision Aerobatics Addiction family. This new lightweight 59-in. design incorporates many new features into its FiberFusion© construction.

The ADXL is a 3D dedicated airframe.

This airplane is said to perform accurately any precision aerobatics maneuvers. It was engineered for precision flying. Consequently, the ADXL is a very neutral airframe—and is said to have zero control coupling, with no mixing required for precision flying. Also, no center of gravity adjustments are required for switching between precision and 3D flying.

The ADXL Thrust 50/Quantum70/6S 2200mAh LiPo set up is recommended, which allows you to get out of the most difficult situations with ease. This makes it a good choice for pilots wanting to get into 3D flying, or for those looking for a sport airplane.

Distributor Precision Aerobatics 2 Bay Road Arcadia, NSW 2159 AUSTRALIA Phone: 612-96551445 precisionaerobatics.com

HITEC HS-53

JETI USA JETI DC-16 CARBON

H

itec RC is now offering their new, economical HS-53 feather servo. It is designed to compete head to head with the other low-cost servos while still maintaining Hitec’s renowned high quality.

The HS-53 is designed with a durable nylon gear train and an efficient three-pole cored motor. This lightweight servo is a terrific fit for small power airplanes and gliders.

T

he DC-16 Carbon represents Jeti’s new flagship, state-of-the-art, transmitter that sets a new standard for the RC Industry. Jeti’s final touches and finishes are outstanding. The front panel of the system is made of genuine carbon fiber that is UV stabilized acrylic, with a clear coat. The radio has an aluminum frame, which is finished in multi-layer automotive paint.

Distributor Hitec 12115 Paine Street Poway, CA 92064 Phone: 858-748-6948 ext. 317 hitecrcd.com

Distributor Esprit Model 1240 Clearmont St NE, Unit 12 Palm Bay, FL 32905 Phone: 321-729-4287 espritmodel.com

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RC SPORT FLYER . DECEMBER 2013

Features • Durable nylon gears • Three-pole cored motor • Feather-weight HS-53 (31053) $8.49

4.8 VOLTS 6.0 VOLTS Speed Torque Speed Torque 16.7 oz-in 20.8 oz-in HS-53 0.16 sec/60° 0.13 sec/60° 1.20 kg-cm 1.50 kg-cm

Model

Part# 31053

Dimensions 1.12 x 0.46 x 0.95 in 28.6 x11.6 x 24.1 mm

Weight 0.28 oz 8.0 g

ICARE ACRO-PRISM

I

CARE’s new Acro Prism is something different. It is exciting, hot and fun—a stunt aerobatic airplane.

The Acro Prism was designed with two criteria in mind: speed and aerobatics. Two years of tedious development have lead to this amazing, little airplane.

ICARE says, “If you like the thrill of speed, and you want something that can handle a complete F3A routine precisely, here is the airplane for you.”

The model’s wings and stabilizer are in line, with zero decalage. It uses a proven aerobatic airfoil, which handles inverted as well upright flight well. It has a large fuselage to accommodate a high capacity LiPo battery, and your choice of power system.

Its construction is fully molded, with a single piece carbon D-box wing that includes a sturdy spar to withstand those high G turns.

The model also uses a strong fiberglass fuselage to carry even the most powerful motor system, and to withstand hard landings.

Distributor ICARE/ICARUS 890 ch. D’Anjou, Unit 1 Boucherville, QC, J4B 5E4 Canada Phone: 450-449-9094 icare-rc.com

Specifications Wingspan Wing area Wing airfoil Wing loading Flying weight Receiver Servos

63 in. (1.6 m) 477in.2 (30.8 dm2) SD 6060 21 oz /ft2 (64 g/dm2) 70 oz (2.0 kg) Standard Sub-micro

SIG SBACH XA-41 EP ARF Distributor SIG Mfg. Co., Inc. 401 South Front Street Montezuma, IA 50171-0520 Phone: 641-623-5154 sigmfg.com

Specifications Wingspan Wing area Length Weight (w/o battery) Weight RTF Wing loading

50 in. (1270 mm) 500 in.2 (32.2 dm2) 44.25 in. (1124 mm) 57 - 60 oz (1616 - 1701 g) 68 - 76 oz (1928 - 2154 g) 19.6 - 21.9 oz/ft2 (60 - 67 g/dm2)

S

IG’s new Sbach XA-41 ARF is the perfect size and performance for the club sport aerobatic pilot. So, whether you like to fly fast or slow, prefer smooth precision aerobatics or exiting 3D maneuvers, the XA-41 is designed to provide the aerobatic performance you want.

Power, maneuverability and unlimited vertical performance make it an absolute blast to fly. With the rate switches on low, the XA-41 will perform beautiful precision aerobatic maneuvers like the sweetest model you’ve ever flown. When you want a thrill, just punch the throttle for straight-up performance. SIG says, “Flip the rate switches to high and the Sbach will reward you with outright 3D insanity! Waterfalls, high-alfa knife-edge flight, hovering, torque rolls, harriers, flat spins, and much more are all in the XA-41’s flight envelope.”

Note too that the SIG Sbach XA-41 features traditional all wood construction and has the kind of finish, accuracy and performance that only balsa models can offer.

Sbach Xa-41 EP ARF

(SIGRC105EPARF) $189.99 RC-SF.COM

21

HOT PRODUCTS

ESPRIT MODEL NEW GENERATION PULSARS 2.5E PRO FULL/REF/RES

Distributor Esprit Model 1240 Clearmont St NE, Unit 12 Palm Bay, FL 32905 Phone: 321-729-4287 espritmodel.com

T

he completely redesigned, brand new generation of Pulsar 2.5E Pro full-house (ailerons, rudder, elevator, flap), REF (rudder, elevator, flap) & RES (rudder, elevator, spoilers) is now in stock at Esprit. The 2.5-m size is their latest addition to the Pulsar

family of hand-made electric-powered and thermal duration sailplanes.

Pulsar 2.5E Pro Pulsar 2.5E Pro RES Pulsar 2.5E Pro REF

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ALIGN RC USA T-REX 550E

Distributor Align RC USA 3626 Briggeman Drive Los Alamitos, CA 90720 Phone: 562-598-4700 alignrcusa.com

22

T

he new T-REX 550E offers RC pilots an outstanding power upgrade in the form of a 730MX, 850 Kv motor. The power upgrade provides more torque and efficiency, which Align has matched to their new 3K carbon side frames. The T-Rex 550E uses 530-mm 3G main rotor blades that deliver enhanced stability, yet also provide agility and an overall boost in performance. The included DS615 high performance cyclic servos deliver quick control response because of their high torque and extremely low deadband. Also included with the TREX 550E PRO DFC is the Castle Talon 90-amp brushless ESC. Align finishes this new helicopter in a stunning red color scheme.

RC SPORT FLYER . DECEMBER 2013

JETI USA JET TRANSMITTER KNOB

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he new Jeti control stick knob is a fantastic addition to any DS- or DC-16 radio transmitter. It provides the pilot with proportional control of any channel on their Jeti transmitter.

So, now you can control spoilers, flaps, retracts, rudder, etc from the control stick, and without the need to reach for another knob or lever.

Distributor Esprit Model 1240 Clearmont St NE, Unit 12 Palm Bay, FL 32905 Phone: 321-729-4287 espritmodel.com

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BUILD

BRISTOL BEAUFIGHTER TEST FLIGHTS AND TOP GUN 2013

BY David Wigley

I’m shown here on the starting pad waiting for my turn to start the first flight round. At Top Gun there are usually four to five active flight stations. The airspace can get quite busy.

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RC SPORT FLYER . DECEMBER 2013

A

t this point in the build, the Beaufighter’s journey was almost complete. The paint, color and markings as well as the weathering were done. It was ready for pictures and its maiden flight.

That’s not how it went with the Beau.

That is, however, my preferred way of completing a scale project. I like to get everything done including all the details and some static photographs before attempting to fly it for the first time. As much as I hated to deviate from this method, time constraints got in the way because of Top Gun. I thoroughly enjoy competing at Frank Tiano’s

world class Top Gun competition in Lakeland, Florida every spring. I don’t build my scale models specifically for competition, but I like the challenge of an event such as Top Gun. So… FIVE YEARS AND COUNTING It is worth pointing out that I reached the event’s five-year limit competing with my Westland Wyvern. That meant I must compete with a different airplane in 2013.

The plan had always been to build the Beau for competition. By the summer of 2012 I realized I still had much to do to get the Beau finished. Moreover, I was absolutely

certain I was not going to compete with an unproven airplane. Every year at Top Gun I see competitors arriving with models they have been frantically working on to ready for the competition. They are forced into flying an unproven airplane in a very stressful environment.

From my experience, it takes a number of flights to work the bugs out of a competition airplane— especially one that you would use in a Top Gun competition. Top Gun type scale models are enormously complicated machines and there are always things that go wrong on the initial flights. Not to mention

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BRISTOL BEAUFIGHTER

The Beaufighter on a low flyby at the instant the torpedo is released. This is an excellent prototypical maneuver and a real crowd pleaser. It’s not as easy as it looks. The airspeed and release height are critical.

After the first flight. Note the lack of detail and the wide open cowls. I wanted to confirm that there would be no engine cooling problems before I installed the dummy engines in their respective cowls.

It sits on the static judging table at Top Gun 2013. The board in front of the table is the jig I use to assemble the aircraft.

The scale-sized propellers are fitted to the model for judging. A flight propeller and droppable torpedo are on the table. They must be presented to the judges for comparison.

the need for a pilot to get familiar with a new model and its handling characteristics. It doesn’t matter how skilled you are, it just takes time to get the airplane dialed in and to practice the flight routine.

So the goal was to have the Beaufighter ready to complete at Top Gun 2013. I live in the Northeastern U.S. Consequently, I felt it best to have flown it before winter. Top Gun is held in April and the spring weather in my area can be very unpredictable. I did not want to put myself in the position of hoping for good test flight days as the clock

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RC SPORT FLYER . DECEMBER 2013

ticked down to the competition date.

So, I prioritized the tasks needed to get the model in the air, and left the other details for the winter months after the model had some test flights.

DEPRESSED At this stage, when I found myself looking too far down the road at the huge list of tasks to complete,

it became pretty depressing. Many times I knew it would not get done.

I had to force myself to focus on one task at a time. Once it was done, I would progress to the next step.

So, I completed the panel lines and rivets. Then the scale exhausts were done in August. By late September I was spraying color on the model. In October it was looking like I would at

Access to the batteries, air system and receiver switches is through the removable nose radome. This was a logical place for these items because of the twin-engine configuration.

Taxing the Beaufighter back after an early test flight. At this point I was still struggling with getting the gear doors to operate reliably.

The judges have been briefed and it’s time to start the engines. In competition, having a reliable airplane and equipment is essential to success.

At this point, I’m taxiing it out for takeoff. It is time to settle down, calm your nerves and stay focused on flying the airplane.

least have the Beaufighter ready for flight. At that point, all the radio gear was installed and the engines had been ground tested. Even so, getting both engine rpm rates synchronized was a challenge, which I did not get perfected until spring.

CHECK AND DOUBLE-CHECK I am very conscientious when

preparing a model for its maiden flight. I even keep a “Loctite® List” as I build to make certain the model does not get flown with any loose fasteners. (How many times have you installed a nut or bolt and said to yourself, “I’ll have to remember to Loctite that later?” Of course later comes around and you’ve forgotten.

Then you take the airplane for its first

flight. Unfortunately, that critical bolt vibrates loose and disaster strikes.)

During construction, every time I tighten a bolt or nut and I don’t put Loctite on it, I add it to my list. Then before the aircraft is test flown I check the list. The item is checked off only after I’ve applied Loctite. I will not fly the model until that list is clear. I also try to get as much set up work done at home as possible, before taking the model to the airfield. At the airfield, I try to resist the pressure of: “Just fly it! It will be fine.” Problems on the ground don’t usually get better in the air. If I’m not 100 percent certain everything is good for the flight, then I pack up and try another day.

By the end of October I took it out taxi testing and engine runs. I was a little concerned about the final weight. At 85 pounds, the Beaufighter was by far the heaviest model I’d ever built. Those fears vanished after a few high-speed runs where the airplane almost got airborne. Initially I though it would RC-SF.COM

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BRISTOL BEAUFIGHTER

It is shown in position and cleared for takeoff. The persistent gusty crosswind made takeoffs and landings a challenge.

need flaps deployed for takeoff, as was the case with my other warbirds.

This proved not to be the best technique for the Beaufighter. The propellers blast so much air over the wings that when flaps are extended, the tail rises too quickly.

MAIDEN As much as I hated to do it, I had no pictures of the finished airplane before committing it to flight. I had the Dark Sea Gray and Sky colors on but no markings or weathering.

That was the price I was to pay for a realistic chance at competing with the Beaufighter at Top Gun 2013.

Note that I was also concerned about engine cooling, so for the first flights I did not install the dummy engines. And, I was concerned the ailerons would not be very effective.

So, I programmed my transmitter for dual rates on ailerons, elevator and rudder, with some exponential used as well. Then too, I decided for the first flight I would leave the landing gear down.

After numerous successful taxi runs, and an additional preflight of the aircraft, I charged the battery packs. Then I was prepared for its maiden flight. It was late in the day, but there was still plenty of daylight.

So off it went. The Beaufighter only required very slight trim adjustments for straight and level flight. All the primary controls were effective, including its rather small ailerons.

The aircraft seemed very stable,

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RC SPORT FLYER . DECEMBER 2013

without any bad flight characteristics.

I tried some slow flight, with flaps extended—there were no surprises.

Soon it was time to set it up for landing. She proved to be rock solid on final. I flew it for the approach and landing with half flaps. The Beau touched down smoothly. All in all, it was a successful first flight. The Beaufighter was now officially an airplane!

Through November and even into December there was very nice flying weather. I continued to work on the airplane in the shop and get more flights on it. By the time the flying season was actually over I had 15 flights on the model. I was getting comfortable with its handling characteristics. The only bad habit I found was its tendency to sink sharply when the power was reduced during the flare for landing. This makes sense though because the blast from the propellers adds quite a bit of lift to the wings. When this air flow is suddenly stopped, the wing loses a lot of lift. I found the best technique to get a smooth landing therefore is to keep the power on into the flare then slowly reduce it after the main wheels are firmly on the ground.

It was then that I found major problems with the main landing gear doors. As discussed in the previous landing gear article, the doors function just as those on the prototype. They use the struts to push the doors open and cables

It is touching down on the upwind wheel in a strong left to right crosswind. In competition, you never know what to expect with the weather, so it pays to practice in all conditions.

Here we are in the winner’s circle with a lot of loot. Making the decision to get many flights on the Beaufighter before the competition paid off. I was comfortable with the airplane and it was reliable.

Another shot of me with the Beaufighter was taken early in the test flight stage of construction, so there is no weathering and such to the model.

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BRISTOL BEAUFIGHTER

On the takeoff roll, the torpedo is slung underneath. The grass runway was cut short and very smooth, which is ideal for tail draggers such as the Beaufighter.

It sits on the starting pad ready for the next round. The pace of competition is quite fluid. At times things are quiet, then frantic if you’re not ready for the next round, especially if there are airplane problems.

The model lacks markings and surface detail in this photograph.

The addition of weathering and details adds much to the character of any aircraft.

and bungees to pull them closed. It was problematic to keep the cables running over the pulleys so the doors operated smoothly and without jamming.

Although the Beaufighter was very stable in flight, I added gyros to the ailerons’ and rudder’s controls. The Top Gun rules had changed to allow the use of up to three gyros in any aircraft. I felt that having an onboard stabilization system would serve to make the flights more realistic.

There were some programming issues while setting up the gyros but overall it wasn’t as difficult as I had expected. This change made the Beaufighter really fly as if it is on rails!

Throughout the winter months I continued to work on all the details to get the airplane ready for competition. As spring arrived, the weather improved, so I was able to get more flights on the model.

By the time Top Gun came I had amassed fifty flights and was feeling very comfortable piloting the model.

All the issues with the gear doors were resolved, and I finally had both

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RC SPORT FLYER . DECEMBER 2013

engines in sync throughout their entire throttle ranges.

TOP GUN 2013 As the countdown to Top Gun came I felt confident I was ready for it. In hindsight, although it had been a major project effort in the last six months, it was worth it. I now know I made the right decision to fly the airplane in the fall, even though it was unfinished.

At the competition things went better than I expected.

From past Top Gun experiences, I had done my homework and presented a complete and accurate documentation package to the static judges. The model earned the High Static score for me as a result. The judges noticed only a few minor deviations.

Then, prior to the flight rounds, I flew some practice flights to get reacquainted with the Lakeland airfield.

The weather for the judged flying rounds was less than ideal. There was a strong crosswind blowing most

of the time. That made piloting the model quite challenging. They were the strongest winds I’d flown the Beaufighter in, and I was pleasantly surprised at how smoothly it flew.

The gyros dampened the effect the bumpy air had on the model. Also, I’m sure the model’s 85-pound weight helped steady it. Then too, I was comfortable with the maneuvers I had chosen for the Beaufighter.

So all that was left to do was to concentrate on flying the airplane.

By the time the competition’s dust had settled and the scores were tallied, the Beaufighter and I had finished in first place in the Masters class. My efforts had won me the Mr. Top Gun award for the fourth year in a row. I really couldn’t believe it.

REFLECTION Looking back on the five-year journey of the Beaufighter project, I really don’t have any regrets. I’m pleased that from the onset I chose to build the Beau big. The skills I learned in fabricating the landing gear, and other parts, will serve me well for future projects.

Finally I have to say that every flight of the Beaufighter is truly a joy.

It is such an honest and solid flying aircraft, not to mention the sound of those two engines singing in harmony. It is, however, a bit tedious to assemble and take apart, but is well worth it, even if just for one flight. The Beau was quite a project. I needn’t say more!

1815 South Research Loop Tucson, Arizona 85710 Phone: (520) 722-0607 E-mail: info@desertaircraft.com Web Site: desertaircraft.com

DA-200

Price $2795

Displacement: 12.20 cin (200 cc) Output: 19 hp Weight: 10.95 lb (4.95 kilos) Length: 9.625 in. (244 mm) Warranty: Two Years

DA-150

Price $1395

Displacement: 9.15 ci (150 cc) Output: 16.5 hp Weight: 7.96 lb (3.61 kilos) Length: 7.67 in. (195 mm) Warranty: Three year

DA-100L

Price $999

Displacement: 6.10 ci (100 cc) Output: 9.8 hp Weight: 5.57 lb (2.53 kilos) Length: 6.5 in. (162.5 mm) Warranty: Three year

DA-50-R

Price $595

Displacement: 3.05 ci (50 cc) Output: 5.0 hp Weight: 2.94 lb (1.33 kilos) Length: 6.7 (170 mm) Warranty: Three year

DA-170

Price $1695

Displacement: 10.48 ci (171.8 cc) Output: 18 hp Weight: 8.05 lb (3.56 kilos) Length: 7.67 in. (195 mm) Warranty: Three year

DA-120

Price $1199

Displacement: 7.4 ci (121 cc) Output: 11 hp Weight: 4.95 lb (2.25 kilos) Length: 6.25 in. (159 mm) Warranty: Three year

DA-85

Price $795

Displacement: 5.24 ci (85.9 cc) Output: 8.5 hp Weight: 4.3 lb (1.95 kilos) Length: 5.9 in. (150 mm) Warranty: Three year

BUILD

COVERING THE DALLAIRE SPORTSTER COVERING A FUSELAGE IS LIKE PUTTING ON SOCKS

I

n my last installment, I showed you how to cover an undercamber wing, starting with the lower side, and using thin CA to ensure that a solid bond exists between the concave ribs and the covering. This secure bond is necessary to prevent the material from pulling away from the rib edges when you shrink it. The model’s tail surfaces were also covered previously.

My example for these covering procedures has been the 108-in. wingspan Dallaire Sportster. With the Dallaire’s huge wing and empennage neatly tucked away, the only stillnaked item is its fuselage. I’ll get to that component after a few brief comments.

Whether you cover with film or fabric, the one rule to guide you is stretch, not shrink. All heat-shrink materials must eventually be called

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RC SPORT FLYER . DECEMBER 2013

upon to shrink to some degree, but if they are applied with a pulling- andstretching technique as opposed to a loose application, the end result will be tighter, longer lasting and one that is resistant to loosening under the sun’s rays.

If you have followed the preparation methods I’ve given you in several previous installments, your model’s fuselage is sanded smooth, with any blemishes removed or repaired, and the component thoroughly vacuumed to remove any sanding dust. The final step in preparation before the covering procedure is to wipe down the fuselage with a tack cloth.

The Dallaire Sportster’s rounded belly presents a potential problem, not because of its rounded shape alone, but because of the two protruding landing gear legs that are permanently mounted to the

BY Jeff Troy

fuselage. These prevent the side coverings from being wrapped under the fuselage and mating, side-toside, over the lower-center stringer.

I deduced the best way to tackle the fuselage was to cover the bottom first, followed by the two side panels, then the cowl and finally the top.

Unlike polyester and polypropylene films, fabrics have grain, and that grain must run in specific directions during the covering process. For wings and tails, the grain direction is traditionally span wise, which means it runs from the wing root to the leading edge. For the typical fuselage, the grain runs lengthwise—from nose to tail. With this in mind, I cut a piece of covering from the roll with the grain running nose to tail, long enough and wide enough to cover the bottom of the fuselage in one seamless piece.

1

After vacuuming the entire model, the first step to any good covering application is a careful wipe down with a tack cloth. One speck of dust under an otherwise flawless covering comes off looking like a cactus in the desert.

2

I made an “X” cut in the lower covering so it would clear the music-wire tail skid. Notice the hole is not overly large—I made it just big enough to fit over the gear leg.

3

With the covering held at the rear by the skid, gently pull the covering forward and iron it down at the nose. Ironing down wrinkles looks terrible, and the wrinkles don’t come out. Always pull and stretch the covering before touching it with the iron.

Remember this quote: “Pull tight and iron down smoothness.”

4

Clearing the landing gear isn’t difficult. Pull the covering close to the legs, then fold it back on itself so you see where the covering must be cut to pass between the gear legs. Rememeber to measure twice and only cut once if you want to avoid having to redo a piece of covering.

5

Make slits in the covering to clear the landing gear’s legs, then pull the covering up between the legs and iron it to the lower longeron of the fuselage.

6

Pull and stretch the covering along the lower longeron, ironing down approximately six inches at a time on each side of the fuselage’s top side.

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COVERING THE DALLAIRE SPORTSTER

7

Getting the covering tightly around the nose without wrinkles is easy if you pull and stretch the covering before touching the iron to it. You’ll be amazed at how easily the fabric goes around the compound curvatures.

8

Trim away the excess covering with a fresh, sharp, No. 11 hobby blade or single-edge razor blade. Remember, a dull blade will wander during the cutting, so have a box of extra blades handy on your workbench.

9

Look to Excel Hobby Blades for consistently sharper, longerlasting and reasonably priced hobby tools. If you do a lot of building, the 100-pack of No. 11 blades is a great way to always be sure you have a fresh blade handy.

10

Ironed down, edges trimmed, shrinking the fuselage bottom takes only a few minutes. Fabric shrink rates are far in excess of most polyester or polypropylene films. Just look, you don’t see any wrinkles anywhere.

I cut a small “X” in one end of the covering, allowing me to slip that end over the wire tail skid that is lashed to the center stringer. Pulling gently at the opposite end of the covering—the nose—I ironed down an area of approximately two square inches. The next task was ironing down the material to the lower longerons, but first I had to find a way of clearing the landing gear legs so the covering could be pulled between them.

I pulled each side of the bottom covering closely to the gear legs, folding it back on itself in that area to give me a better view of the legs.

With a fresh No. 11 blade in my Excel hobby knife, I made two slits in each side of the covering to clear the legs, then rounded the four cuts at the top

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RC SPORT FLYER . DECEMBER 2013

to allow the covering to surround the legs. Then I was free to pull the covering tight between the legs, and iron it down to the lower longerons.

With the covering attached at the front and rear, and between the gear legs, I worked my 21st Century® iron rearward to seal the rest of the covering to the lower longerons.

When both sides were ironed down from the landing gear to the tail, I worked the same way to secure the material forward from the gear legs to the nose. Fabric is forgiving, and most fabrics have a greater shrink rate than plastic films. This highshrink quality made easy work of stretching the material around the curvature of the nose, then using the iron to fuse it down to the wooden sheets and blocks of the nose.

With the bottom covering secured at the nose and tail, and along both sides of its length, I glided the iron gently over the fabric to shrink it tight. I double-checked the seams along the entire piece, then used another fresh blade to trim away the excess material. Working with a fresh hobby blade is something that cannot be overemphasized, especially when it comes to fabric coverings. If your knife’s blade begins to dull, the fabric will not cut cleanly.

Instead, it will snag and begin to unravel slightly, leaving unwanted threads that can result in eyesores in the finish.

My favorite hobby knives and blades are those from Excel Hobby Blades (excelhobbyblades.com).

Excel products seem to come

11

Cut the side panels from the covering roll, making sure to use a straightedge to get a dead-straight line in the lower edge. The gradual upward sweep in the lower edge of the covering is best cut by eye.

12

Iron down the side panels along the lower edge. Be sure to allow enough overlap to prevent the material from pulling away when heated. Pull and seal the upper edges, then shrink the side panels with your iron.

13

Cover the cowl by ironing down the covering at the sides, but don’t iron down the excess overlap. There’s a good tip coming in the next photograph that will show you a trick I learned many years ago. It is one of those simple, little tricks that makes the hobby truly fun for builders. Its a secret, so don’t tell unless the guy agrees to subscribe to this magazine.

14

Insert a piece of shirt cardboard or a scrap of cardboard cut from a cereal box. Push it under and up against the ironed down area of the cowl. Place a straightedge over the overlap and trim it away.

Use just enough pressure on the blade to cut the covering without cutting through the cardboard. The result is a dead-straight cut in your fabric edge, without damaging the fabric underneath.

sharper and last longer than most others.

The sides of the fuselage can be covered next, and be sure to use a straight-edge when you cut the mating line between the bottom and side covering pieces. The cut line must be dead-straight from the rear gear leg to the tail. The front of the covering must sweep slightly upward from the rear leg to the nose—the eyeball method is the easiest way for me to get a nicely swept cut. The sweep doesn’t have to match exactly, but try to get it as closely as possible to the upward sweep of the fuselage.

Iron down the lower edge of the side covering along the lower longeron, then pull and stretch the

covering tightly toward the upper longeron just before touching the iron to it. As I explained in this and previous installments, covering is about stretching before sealing, not sealing and then trying to shrink.

Pull, stretch and iron the side panels, then trim the upper edges, allowing enough overlap to go over the wing saddle, rear longerons and stabilizer saddle. If you like, you can cover the top now, or do the cowl first and save the top for last.

The final step is shrinking. When using fabric, a heat gun is rarely needed or used. Shrinking the fabric is all about a light touch with the iron, gently gliding it over the surface of the material in circular motions,

and never applying unnecessary pressure. Once the material is drumtight all around, it should be sealed to any parts of the structure that come into contact with the covering.

Typically, these parts would be the longerons, stringers, uprights, nose and tail sheets and nose blocks.

You’re almost finished. Now, cut a piece of covering to fit over the cowl.

It should be wide enough to drape over both sides by at least three inches. Iron down the edges along the sides, but don’t iron down the overlap. You are about to learn how to trim the overlap without cutting through the covering underneath.

This is one of those “that’s so easy I should have known it all along” items RC-SF.COM

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15

17

COVERING THE DALLAIRE SPORTSTER

The Dallaire’s fuselage has several holes that must be cut for engine needles and wing hold-down dowels. Make crisscross cuts in the covering over the holes. I usually make two cuts in a “+” pattern and two more in an “X” pattern, just like a New York pizza.

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RC SPORT FLYER . DECEMBER 2013

Find a tapered tool that will fit into the hole but not go all the way through it. Suggestions are an awl or a hole punch, a funnel or a reamer. Heat the covering over the hole, pull away the iron and insert the tapered tool. Let the covering cool, remove the tool, and you’ll have a perfect hole with edges that won’t recede.

or a cereal box, and cut it to a comfortable working size for the area you need to access. Make sure that at least one side of the cardboard is cut with a straightedge so that it’s deadstraight. Slip the cardboard under the overhanging flap of covering and jam it tightly up against the area that is ironed down. Now lay a straightedge over the covering with the cardboard underneath it. Then cut with enough pressure to slice through the covering but not through the cardboard. Pull away the covering scrap, pull away the cardboard and there you have it: a perfectly straight seam, ready to iron down, with no damage to the covering underneath.

The Dallaire Sportster fuselage has several holes that need to be made in the covering: two for the engine needles and four for the wing

The Dallaire Sportster’s fuselage and all of the other airframe components are now covered and awaiting trim colors. Plenty of color will be coming your way in the next installment. Please be here with me to share it.

everyone should know, but only a few really ever do. Thanks to RC Sport Flyer, you will now be among those select few.

Find a piece of shirt cardboard

16

hold-down dowels. Cutting round holes with a hobby knife isn’t difficult, but the covering will often pull away or loosen around a hole if the cut is flush with the circumference of the hole. So here’s another simple trick: Instead of cutting a flush circle, try making four cuts in the covering over the hole. Slice the covering over the hole from top to bottom, then side to side in a “+” pattern, then again in an “X” pattern. If you do it right, it should look like a New York cheesecake.

Next, find something in your workshop with a rounded, tapered end. Small items could be an awl or a hole punch, and larger items might be a funnel or a reamer. Tapered tool at the ready, lay your hot hobby iron over the hole to heat the pie slices in the covering, then lift the iron and insert the tapered tool while the covering is still hot. Wait a few seconds for the covering to cool, and withdraw the tool. You’ll get a neatly cut and ironed hole, with the chances of the edges loosening nearly zero.

ADDING COLOR NEXT At this point, my Dallaire Sportster is completely covered in boring natural white fabric, but don’t despair. Plenty of color gets added in the next installment.

Please be here to share the experience with me. Till next time, this is art and your skills are surely developing.

BUILD

BRISTOL BEAUFIGHTER THE ART OF PAINTING AND WEATHERING

BY David Wigley & Rob Caso

Masking for the black Invasion Stripes, I used the plastic modelers technique of painting the white stripes prior to spraying the gray and sky. This allows the white to cover more effectively.

T

he 1/5-scale Bristol Beaufighter was finally taking shape. By this stage, after four years of work, the airframe was complete and the fiberglass parts had been molded and fabricated. The complicated landing gear had been installed and all the servos were in place. Now the finish work began. It is said that a scale model is only half complete when it is ready for the finish and paint. It’s also been said that you never really finish a scale model, you just decide to stop working on it. I’m certain that’s true.

THE FINAL PUSH As noted before, the Beaufighter’s airframe was sheeted with balsa except for fabric on the rudder and the Fliteskin covered stabilizers and elevators. The finished balsa skin is only as good as the subsurface so I filled and sanded all cracks and imperfections before glassing the balsa structure. When I was satisfied the model had a smooth surface, I applied one-ounce of fiberglass cloth and Z-Poxy™ finishing resin.

After it dried, I lightly sanded the surfaces then applied a wet coat of sprayable automotive filler. I use a product called Z-Chrome™

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RC SPORT FLYER . DECEMBER 2013

It is said that a scale model is only half complete when it is ready for the finish and paint.

Rust Defender™ manufactured by Clausen. It is available at any auto body supply store and is excellent for this application. Furthermore, Rust Defender is compatible with the finishing resin.

Once Rust Defender was applied, I sanded it down until the weave in the cloth just showed through. The real advantage to this method, as opposed to filling the cloth weave

with more epoxy resin, is that you can easily tell when you have sanded down to the cloth because of the brown color of the filler. You never have to worry about sanding through to the balsa or leaving too much resin on the surface as unnecessary weight. Note, I actually glassed and sanded the wings before fitting the nacelles. Likewise, the fuselage was sealed and sanded before its tail surfaces were attached. This made it much easier to handle the large parts.

I talk about sanding the airframe as if it was a walk in the park. I assure you it was not! Just like the time during the design phase when I pulled out my tape measure to the 138 inches of the wingspan, this was another time when it was abundantly clear that this model is big! The Beaufighter’s wings presented a huge area to sand—don’t forget it was doubled for the wings’ bottoms.

After the nacelles and empennage were attached, I laid out the panel lines with 1/32-in. Chartpak graphic

The leading edge of the stabilizers was covered with aluminum tape. Later, the paint was chipped off to simulate the effects of dirt and stones thrown back by the propellers’ blasts.

The overall weathering effect is evident in this photo. It could have been taken in 1944 at an airfield somewhere in England, except for the fact that the sun is shining.

The chipped cowl lip was created by first painting the area with silver paint then dabbing Vaseline® on with an acid brush prior to shooting the black. The Vaseline was wiped away once the black dried.

This shows the finished effect on the stabilizer’s leading edge, which would have taken a real beating from dirt and stones thrown back from the propellers’ blasts.

Masking and spraying black on the cowls exhaust collector rings and propeller spinner domes was done in my workshop. Note how the propellers were masked.

tape. Then the entire airframe was sprayed with Klass Kote primer. In the past I’ve used lacquer primer for this stage, but Klass Kote is far superior.

It is a two-part epoxy paint that you thin with lacquer reducer before it is sprayed. It cures by chemical reaction rather than evaporation, as is the case with lacquer primer, so there is no lingering smell. Also it sands easily, without clogging the sandpaper.

After sanding the primer to the panel line tape’s height, I peeled the tape off and added the rivet detail.

Weathering the airplane started prior to shooting the final colors. I sprayed silver over the areas I wanted

to be “chipped.” The leading edges of the stabilizers got special treatment.

I reasoned that these areas would have been sandblasted by dirt thrown up from the propellers’ blasts on the full-scale airplane. Consequently, I covered them with aluminum tape.

Then I used a toothpick and a small acid brush to dab Vaseline® along the leading edges. I did this with selected panel lines, rivets and fasteners as well. Next I sprayed the colored paint. When the paint dried I scraped off the blobs of Vaseline and wiped those areas clean with a cloth soaked in solvent. That revealed the silver “chips” underneath. You should know that when using epoxy paint there is

no need to worry above the solvent attacking the paint and ruining the surface. Honestly, it looked a bit fake, but the dirtying up stage was next and that’s where it all came together.

I sprayed Klass Kote custommixed paints for the colors and markings. The two main colors were dark sea gray and sky. The white and black stripes around the wings and aft fuselage add a nice contrast and make the model easier to see in the air.

WEATHERING Weathering is my favorite part of building scale models. This is where you add character, and turn your RC-SF.COM

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BRISTOL BEAUFIGHTER

Very subtle staining was done to simulate that from the .303 machine guns that were in the wings’ leading edges on the full-scale Beaufighter. Never use black; a brownish gray is best for creating this effect.

The canopy frame was also covered with aluminum tape prior to painting it, so it could be realistically chipped as well. Dabs of dulled silver paint were applied with a 000 brush as well.

Dirt and oil streaks on the cowl flaps and gear doors were created using a combination of thinned oil paints applied with a 000 brush. Then an air brush was used with burn umber to blend the weathering effects on the cowling and the landing gear doors.

model into a miniature airplane.

For this stage of the build, I got some help from a real finish detail master, Rob Caso. Rob is well-known in the scale modeling world for his immaculate work on smaller electricpowered warbirds. He was keen to tackle a larger “canvas” and my Beaufighter fills it. Really, I was only too glad to learn some of his secrets.

Both of us knew the Beaufighter was a real work horse of the Royal Air Force in World War II. The TFX version was routinely flown over the North Sea in some of the worst weather conditions, so paint chipped off the airplane everywhere. Also, its big, powerful engines leaked oil continuously. The only time the airplane was cleaned was when it flew through a rain storm. This was the effect we were looking to

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RC SPORT FLYER . DECEMBER 2013

It’s not likely that the airman fueling the aircraft cared too much about fuel spills. Various shades of thinned oil paint applied with a 000 brush give a convincing look to the fuel and dirt streaming back on the top surface of the wing.

duplicate on the model.

ROB’S MAGIC My first thought when I arrived at Dave Wigley’s shop to assist him in dirtying up his 138-in. Beaufighter was: “Why don’t we just leave it outside for a few days?” My second was: “I hope I brought enough burnt umber.” Kidding aside, his model is big enough so as to be intimidating and, to me, it looked like I was about to weather the equivalent of a football field. I could have spent a week with this model, but with the WRAM show looming, we had two days.

Weathering a model is the kind of job that can only be properly evaluated after you’re done. Then it’s generally too late to change it, save adding more. The message here is

you can always add more, but it’s a big job to backtrack with less. In any case, weathering should be subtle while it is telling its story, almost as if it cannot be seen or noticed unless you’re really looking for it. It should be consistent in intensity and with the story you’re trying to convey.

Also, it should attempt to mimic what the real aircraft would have exhibited. So, goal number one was realistic but subtle.

Dave had used Klass Kote epoxy to finish the model and so our plan was to use paint having a different base. This would enable us to completely eliminate anything we didn’t like with paint thinner without affecting the underlying finish. We really wanted to avoid doing this however, as weathering is done in stages and a clean sweep would

This is a top view of one of the engine cowls. The cowl flaps are aluminum sheet and fixed in the mid position, so I taped off the wedge shaped areas to simulate that the cowl flaps were closed when the full-scale aircraft got painted.

Here is another angle that shows the finished Beaufighter completely painted and weathered. Again the key to weathering is be subtle; if it’s obvious, then you’ve added too much.

A close-up photo of the aircraft’s serial number on the aft end of the fuselage was taken prior to any weathering effects being applied. All markings were masked and painted on.

eradicate hours of tedious work. To protect the weathered finish, and after each of us had signed off on a forty-page evaluation, the plan was to flat clear coat the model with more epoxy, praying that the epoxy’s solvents didn’t ruin our work. It was a calculated risk.

While Dave and I were at this point intimately familiar with how undeniably filthy “in service” Beaufighters actually were, we wanted to avoid going that far, at least on the first pass. Again, we could always add more if we felt it needed it. My general plan was to first apply a wash to the model, draw in the panel lines with a pencil and then highlight the panels and weathering with both an airbrush and 000 lining brushes laden with oil paint.

Another close-up shot of the cowl and cockpit area shows Flight Officer Burrowes standing by ready for another coastal strike mission.

We started with the light colored underside, using a muddy wash of artist’s oil paint that was immediately wiped off with a cloth containing mineral spirits. The hours spent by Dave doing the indented panel lines and raised panels really paid off here, as the wash remained in the panel lines, corners and everywhere there was a surface deviation. This process also broke up the monochromatic undersides since the wash imparted various shades and undertones to the finish. Interestingly, we really couldn’t detect this effect until we held a clean panel next to one we had just done. This is exactly what we wanted. Still working on the undersides, we enhanced the panel lines with, of all things, a soft No. 2 pencil. Before you laugh, a pencil has a number of advantages. First, any

errors are easily reversible, the pencil is controllable both in placement and intensity and it’s not black. A clear, flexible artist’s ruler helped keep the lines straight and the slight lead shine that results is eradicated by the flat clear at the end. We switched to the top of the aircraft and proceeded to again apply the wash, however the darker upper surfaces did not show the same effect so we stopped after doing the first panel. Instead, we continued the pencil panel lines, but this time with a slightly heavier hand.

I had brought both single and double action airbrushes but, with a model of this size, the single action job became the weapon of choice.

I mixed my typical batch of Model Master gray/brown, to which I always add a significant amount of clear and then reduce it with reducer to RC-SF.COM

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BRISTOL BEAUFIGHTER

SOURCES

BUILD

Chartpak Tape amazon.com Fliteskin fliteskin.com Klass Kote klasskote.com

The full-scale aircraft exits air from its oil coolers, mounted on the leading edges of both wings, exhausted through moveable doors. The oil leaks are simulated here.

An added bonus of having functional exhausts is realistic oil and exhaust stains. Also note that the steel exhaust stack has started to rust and discolor.

Another bonus!

the proper “light cream” viscosity.

If reducer is used without the clear, you’ll wind up with a mix of too great an intensity that also winds up being too thin—the worst of both worlds. The clear allows the mix to behave like paint, but at a much lower intensity so that the effect can be built up in stages. I used this mix to darken and enhance the six miles of panel lines, shading corners and panels and applying dirt as I went. I also applied a mostly burnt umber mix for more dirt and grime and to keep everything from looking too gray, especially around the nacelles.

Exhaust and gun stains were done with a more grayish mix and, just like the real ones, the effect was darker against the light-colored undersides and just the reverse on the upper.

For these, go lightly—applying a lot less than you think—and then leave it alone. Less is more.

Oil paints were then used to replicate weeping fluids: oil, hydraulics and fuel; all done with a 000 brush. You have to be careful here as this paint is the same base as the airbrushed enamels and so

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RC SPORT FLYER . DECEMBER 2013

you run the risk of taking off more than you bargained for if you make a mistake. A good move is to apply a coat of epoxy flat clear at this point, however we did not do this due to time constraints. I knew I wasn’t going to be doing a lot here, so I risked it. The prominent upper wing surface gas filler caps were prime candidates for the weeping fluid treatment. I suggest you have a couple of colors mixed up in various viscosities residing in shallow cups so you can pick and choose differing levels of intensity and color. Start the process by doing a long straight streak right down the middle and build up from there, all the while making sure it looks like blown back fuel. Oils stay alive longer than enamels and, if you do make a mistake, wipe it off with a cloth in the direction of the airflow and continue on. With a long, 000 brush, this is really not hard to do.

By now, we were well into the second day and so it was time for the finishing epoxy flat clear coat.

With the mid-winter light fading, we quickly assembled the model,

Z-Poxy Resin zapglue.com Z-Chrome™ Rust Defender™ clausenautobody.com

masked the canopies and rolled the behemoth outside. We added some gray to the clear mix to dull and blend everything and, in literally ten minutes, the entire model was clear coated, thus locking in the panel lines and the delicate enamel weathering. As predicted, the translucent clear mix blended and softened the various effects quite nicely and Dave and I had to stop each other from admiring the two full-day job. I made him sign an agreement that he wouldn’t touch it in my absence, under the threat of periodic audit. I also told him not to crash it.

While it is somewhat of a laborious, time consuming process, looking back, I feel that the most important “take away” here is to do things in incremental stages. In this way, backtracking and fixing mistakes will not result in a wholesale makeover—when you’re happy with one stage, move on to the next.

Plus, if what you are doing is done subtly to begin with, there is almost no such thing as a mistake—it’s just weathering!

So that’s how the Beaufighter got its character. To me, a scale model is just a model until it is appropriately weathered. With just the right amounts of shading and “dirt,” the model morphs into a miniature, or not so miniature in this case, replica of the full-scale aircraft.

NEXT MONTH I’d like to say, that at this stage, the airplane was ready for its first flight, but that’s not how it went.

I’ll explain in detail in next month’s article on test flying and preparing for the Top Gun competition.

RC-SF.COM

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HOW TO

MULTI-ENGINE AIRCRAFT

GET-IT-RIGHT SETUP FOR COMPUTER RADIO PROGRAMMING

BY Tom Wolf

M

odelers have continually struggled with achieving matched-engine performance (synchronized output rpm) on multi-engine glow- or gaspowered airplanes. Traditional setups use a single radio channel to control throttles. Therefore, the primary method for matching the engine rpm is adjusting the throttle linkages.

In that case, the best that can be hoped for is that the engines are matched at full throttle and perhaps at idle, with poorly synchronized operation in between. To solve this problem, electronic synchronizers have been developed that employ hall-effect sensors to monitor

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RC SPORT FLYER . DECEMBER 2013

engine rpm and provide a feedback control loop to match a slave engine to a master engine. While this approach can be successful, the added components and circuitry increase setup complexity and result in reduced reliability. Since engine reliability is paramount for a multiengine airplane, the use of electronic synchronizers can be problematic.

CHANNEL SEPARATION An alternate solution places the throttle of each engine on a separate radio channel and uses computer radio programmable mixing to link the channels together. One engine and its associated radio channel are

selected to be the “master,” with the additional throttle channels mixed with the master channel— using programmable mixes that include a mixing curve. The mixing curve allows compensation for variations in throttle response from engine to engine, variations in servos, and variations in throttle linkage geometry. Once properly programmed, it is possible to achieve a nearly perfect rpm match for the engines, regardless of throttle setting. Because each engine is on a separate channel, it is also possible to add rudder-to-throttle mixing to provide differential throttle responses with rudder inputs. This

Tom’s 1/16-scale Boeing 314 flying boat utilizes the multi-engine setups described in this article, including for turning the airplane on water.

can be beneficial as an aid to taxiing for aircraft with conventional (taildragger) landing gear.

This article provides setup information specific to a Futaba® 10 CAG computer radio. However, the principles are applicable to any radio with programmable mixes that include mixing curves. For simplicity, the discussion below is also specific

to a twin engine airplane. However, by replicating the setup steps described, this technique can be extended to four-engine aircraft. The only limitation is the availability of radio channels and programmable mixes with curves.

INITIAL RADIO PROGRAMMING Select an engine to be the master.

The author’s 1/5- and 1/8-scale DH Mosquitos make a very nice pair.

They have given many hours of piloting enjoyment.

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MULTI-ENGINE AIRCRAFT

1

Select “AUX-CH” on page 2 of the Basic Menu to set the switch assignment for channel 8.

2

AUX channel assignment screen: Inhibit the switch control of channel 8 by scrolling to “NULL” from the default setting “VrB”.

3

To set up the master/slave mixing for the throttle channels, select THR-NEEDLE mix on page 2 of the Advance Menu

4

THR-NEEDLE mix programming: Change MIX from “INH” to “ACT” to turn the mixing on. The default mixing percentages result in a linear link between channel 3 and 8.

I usually pick the left engine. This engine will be controlled by the default throttle channel, which is channel three for most radios.

Determine what radio channel to use for control of the second engine. On Futaba 9C and 10C radios, there is a built-in mix called THR-NEEDLE, which has a mixing curve and links channel eight (AUX 2) to channel three (throttle) when activated.

Therefore, for these radios, it makes sense to choose channel eight as the slave throttle channel. It is imperative that the channel used for the slave engine is not controlled by any other transmitter switch or function. Using the “MODE” button, open the “BASIC MENU” and scroll to page two. Select “AUX CH” (figure 1). Scroll down to “CH8” and change the switch assignment to “NULL” (figure 2). Hit the “End” button to return to the main menu. Channel eight is now disconnected from transmitter front panel control.

Then you’ll be ready to mix the

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RC SPORT FLYER . DECEMBER 2013

master channel (3) to the slave channel (8). Hit the “MODE” button until the “ADVANCE MENU” appears.

Scroll down to page two and select “THR-NEEDLE” (figure 3). Scroll to “MIX” and change from “INH” to “ACT” to turn the mix on (figure 4).

Notice the straight sloped line in the graph and the five points with associated percentages. The default settings are 0%, 25%, 50%, 75% and 100%, which directly correlate to the same throttle settings for channel three. As depicted by the straight line on the graph, these default settings result in channel 8 being linearly slaved to channel three.

Now check the operation of the two throttle servos. If necessary use servo reversing to get them each working in the proper direction.

SERVO AND THROTTLE LINKAGES It is important to have slop-free throttle linkages to ensure consistent operation. The use of ball links on the servo and the throttle arm

is recommended. The optimum installation has the throttle servos located in geometrically similar locations for each engine, with direct linkage paths to the throttle arm. The throttle linkages and their associated routings should be as similar as possible from engine to engine. Adjust the throttle channel and channel eight endpoints and/or the throttle linkage of each engine as required to just crack the throttle barrels open when the throttle stick is down completely, and open fully when the throttle stick is positioned at full throttle. To maximize control resolution, it is preferred to keep the endpoint (travel) percentages at least 80 percent for both directions. If you must reduce the travel further, it is better to make linkage adjustments to achieve that result: For example, move the linkage in one hole on the servo arm. Also, you should strive to have similar endpoint settings for each channel (figure 5).

5

Endpoint settings for channels 3 and 8 should be similar after initial setup and throttle linkage adjustments.

6

With both engines running, adjusting the mixing curve at 25% throttle setting to match output rpm. Repeat for the 50% and 75% throttle settings.

7

Program Mix 6: The rudder to throttle mixing curve for right rudder adds a small amount of throttle to the left engine.

8

Program Mix 7: The rudder to AUX 2 (CH8, right throttle) mixing curve for left rudder adds a small amount of throttle to the right engine. (DSC_0020)

ENGINE TUNING To achieve reliable multi-engine operation, it is imperative the engines are completely broken in, are well cooled and are tuned properly. With one engine running at a time, adjust the idle and high speed needles as required to achieve a reliable idle, smooth low- to high-speed transition (no loading up) and a highspeed setting that is at least 200 rpm off peak, on the rich side. I usually shoot for a high-speed setting that is about 300 to 400 rpm off peak for glow-fuel- powered engines.

Note that during this tuning process, it may be necessary to make some adjustments to the servos’ endpoints for channels three and eight to achieve an appropriate idle rpm for each engine.

PROGRAMMING FOR MATCHED OPERATION Once the engines have been tuned individually, you’ll ready to run both engines simultaneously and

adjust the mixing curve as necessary to synchronize the engines.

With the airplane restrained appropriately, start both engines.

Navigate to the endpoint menu on the transmitter. With the throttle stick down completely (idle), tach each engine and note their rpm. Make adjustments to the idle endpoint for either channel three or eight as appropriate to match the engines at the desired idle rpm. Then go to full throttle and note the rpm of each engine. Reduce the full-throttle endpoint percentage for the engine that is running at the higher rpm, until the two engines are matched.

Once this is done, reduce the throttle back to idle. Then exit out of the endpoint screen and navigate to the “THR-NEEDLE” mix screen. Advance the throttle to 25% (figure 6) and adjust the “Point 2” percentage until the engines are matched in rpm, remembering that these adjustments affect the right engine. Repeat this procedure for 50% throttle and 75%

throttle settings. Note you can make changes at idle (point 1) and full throttle (point 5) if needed, although these operating points should have been matched during the endpoint adjustments. Then, run the throttle slowly up from idle to full, and back down again. The engines should be in sync for the entire throttle range, regardless of whether you are going up or coming back down.

Shut the engines down and navigate the radio out of its programming mode. This completes the matching (synchronizing) process.

Rudder-Throttle Mixing Since each throttle will run on its own channel, other mixes can be added. One example is to add rudder to throttle mixing, which can aid with turning control during taxiing.

This is accomplished by utilizing two more programmable mixes with mixing curves. For my DH Mosquito, I used Program Mix 6 and Program Mix 7 on my Futaba 10C radio. Program Mix 6 provides a small RC-SF.COM

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MULTI-ENGINE AIRCRAFT

The aileron linkage is driven from an inner servo arm hole to provide as much torque as possible. This is a better solution to control throws than reducing servo travel.

amount of right-rudder-to- leftthrottle mix (figure 7), while Program Mix 7 provides left-rudder-to-rightthrottle mix (figure 8). To set up these mixes, scroll to the second page of the mix setup screen, then turn the mix “ON” and set the appropriate “MAS” and “SLV” channels (figures 9 and 10). Then scroll back to the first page and enter the appropriate mix percentages on the appropriate side of neutral rudder. Repeat these

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9.a.m ight flying .m. n 3p open 9 a.m. – ay Sund 48

RC SPORT FLYER . DECEMBER 2013

aileron linkage is driven from an inner servo arm hole to 10 The provide as much torque as possible. This is a better solution to control throws than reducing servo travel.

steps for both mixes. Note that for each mix, there is a response for only one direction of rudder input, and in all cases you’ll be adding a small amount of throttle: Right rudder adds a small amount of throttle to the left engine, and left rudder does the same for the right engine.

CONCLUSION While the programming details may seem complicated, once you

dive into them, you’ll find it is actually quite easy to match the engines. I’ve been using this type of programming for all of my multi-engine airplanes for a number of years, and done so with excellent results. Once the initial setup is complete, I have found that the settings hold extremely well over time. The rudder-to-throttle mixing is particularly useful for my Boeing 314, which does not have a water rudder.

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HOW TO

AEROBATICS PART 9 HOW TO PERFORM THE NEW VORTEX

BY Daniel Holman

During the 2013 Wenatchee, WA Huckfest, Gabriel Altuz and I performed a demo together. Gabriel is flying the PAU 105-in.

Edge 540. I am flying my Extreme Flight 104-in. Extra 300. As you can see, we’re very comfortable flying close together.

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O

ne of my favorite aspects of aerobatic flight is no matter how much you learn, or how proficient you become, there’s always something new to figure out and master. I’ve heard it said we’ve reached a wall in aerobatics in that every possible maneuver has been done. This may seem true at first in that we fly aerobatics that have four basic channels: ailerons, elevator, rudder and throttle. Even so, I believe there is a lot of untouched ground in this area.

My two hobbies are RC aerobatic airplane flying and music. As I sat at the piano today, I started thinking about the relationships between composing a song and inventing new maneuvers. True, there are more musical notes than channels on an airplane, but think of the myriads of songs written using the same notes. I look at aerobatics in the same way.

When flying in a freestyle aerobatic competition, along with execution, presentation and choreography, the competitors are

judged on originality. This section of the scoring process judges the pilot’s ability to invent new maneuvers/ figures as well as to perform already known maneuvers on different axis and with new variations. Every year, one of the most exciting parts of preparing for a contest is inventing a new maneuver. This is crucial to earning a high score and exciting the spectators.

In June ‘13, I introduced the “Vortex”, at the Extreme Flight Championships. Here is how its done.

VORTEX The Vortex is basically a horizontal waterfall—a tight, fully stalled, 360 degree turn done while the airplane maintains a knife-edge attitude. It can be performed with a high or low entry speed, but a moderate-speed entry is the most forgiving.

In the last issue, I wrote about P-factor/Asymmetric Blade Effect and torque-sensitive maneuvers. The RC-SF.COM

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This was edited in Photoshop®. It gives a great visual of the waterfall maneuver. The Vortex I discuss in this issue, although much more complicated to perform, is basically a horizontal version of this maneuver.

Vortex is a highly torque sensitive maneuver and works best when performed from right to left with the canopy toward you. Depending on the airplane, this maneuver may or may not be possible to perform in the opposite direction. This is because the Vortex actually relies on P-factor to hold the airplane’s altitude through the maneuver.

When trying to perform the Vortex in the other direction, P-factor works against you as it pulls the airplane towards the ground. In this case, full left (up) rudder is required to maintain altitude and depending on the airplane, even that may not be enough.

The “Lomcevak“ / “Crankshaft“

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HOW IT WORKS First, the Vortex is all about timing.

If you nail the timing, you will be rewarded with an amazing maneuver.

If your timing is off, well, let’s not go there. That being said, the stick movements for this maneuver aren’t too terribly complicated. Here they are: You’ll want to enter the maneuver in a knife-edge attitude flying right to left with the canopy towards you, using a slight amount of right rudder control to maintain the airplane’s altitude. Once the airplane reaches the desired entry point for the Vortex, you’ll release rudder and hit full down elevator and full throttle.

Immediately after hitting the elevator, you will input full left (down) rudder along with a small amount of right aileron to compensate for P-factor/ asymmetric blade effect, and to maintain the knife-edge attitude.

After the airplane turns almost 180 degrees and bleeds off all of its airspeed, you must smoothly release the left rudder and right aileron and input a small amount of right rudder and left aileron. Through the last 180 degrees of rotation, the aileron input is modulated to keep the wings in a knife-edge attitude while the rudder input is modulated in the same way to maintain the airplane’s initial altitude. Just a few

The “Vortex“

degrees before one full revolution has been completed, you will release the elevator and hold a very small amount of right rudder along with a very small amount of right aileron control to counteract the propeller’s torque. As the airplane accelerates out of the Vortex back onto the initial flight path, you will smoothly release the right aileron to maintain knife-edge and ease off the throttle a bit. Depending on the airplane, a small amount of up-elevator may be required to stop the airplane’s rotation. Full throttle is required throughout the entire maneuver.

There you have the regular control inputs for this maneuver.

Each airplane will require a slightly different technique, but with the proper control setup, this method holds true from one airplane to another. Two big stumbling blocks that you might run into when performing this maneuver are too much elevator throw and a tail-heavy airplane. Both of these will create a big problem. I usually perform the

Vortex on a mid-rate setting, with 45 degrees of throw on the elevator and rudder and about 35 degrees on the ailerons. I also have all of my airplanes setup with their centers of gravity in such a way that a very slight amount of down elevator control is required to hold inverted flight.

VARIATIONS This maneuver can also be performed as a turn around maneuver with one and a half rotations, or as a double Vortex with two rotations. I’ve flown my model for more than two consecutive rotations. However, the air in which the airplane is rotating becomes very turbulent, making it difficult to keep everything looking clean.

My favorite way to perform this maneuver is from a very high speed and low knife-edge with the controls set to their 3D rate. Performing the Vortex in this way is much more difficult, but is a real show stopper!

Its a great way to transition from high speed, smooth, precision aerobatics

into extreme aerobatics. It always earns a gasp from the spectators.

THE LOMCEVAK TUMBLE/ CRANKSHAFT The second maneuver is a bit easier to perform than the Vortex. It is slightly torque sensitive, and relies somewhat on P-factor/asymmetric blade effect to pull the airplane through it.

This maneuver in a sense is simply a horizontal knife-edge spin.

Many full-scale pilots perform this maneuver on the air show circuit.

It is awesome to see the inertia that a 1400-pound airplane carries through a Lomcevak. Note, the name Lomcevak was actually derived from the Czech word Lomcovak, which means headache. It would be an understandable occurrence considering the high negative G-loading this maneuver induces on any human being brave enough to perform it.

HOW IT WORKS By burying the control sticks

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PHOTOS BY Terry/Lori Wiles, Marty Jones, Penny Baile

The new Laser from Extreme Flight is one of the best airplanes to use to practice these two maneuvers. This machine will perform one of the best Lomcevak/crankshaft tumbles that you’ll ever see. It is also excellent in the Vortex and has the amazing control authority required to perform this new maneuver.

in their corners, it is quite easy to perform a crazy looking tumble with any good aerobatic airplane.

However, doing such a tumble is not very impressive and often displays a lack of piloting skill when, after the airplane wads up, the pilot is forced to yank full up-elevator control to recover their model from an unsightly attitude.

Let’s take a look at how to perform one of the most wild tumbling maneuvers correctly. I want to teach you how to be in complete control of the airplane through the maneuver and its exit.

Entering the Lomcevak/ Crankshaft is best done from inverted, but is also possible from upright flight. Also, this tumble can be entered from almost any airspeed. Keep in mind the higher the airplane’s airspeed, the more violent the tumble. When entering it from inverted, I first initiate a skid movement with a slight left-rudder input and about 75 percent throttle.

As soon as the airplane starts to skid

sideways, I add full down elevator and a hair of left aileron to start the tumble. As soon as the airplane completes one rotation of the tumble, I usually release the rudder and most of the aileron. After the second rotation, I smoothly add right aileron control as needed to keep the airplane rotating around its wing tube. During the rotations, small adjustments must be made to the ailerons’ input to maintain the tumble and ensure the airplane does not prematurely roll out.

Exiting this maneuver correctly takes some finesse and can be done in a few different ways. The easiest of which is to transition into an inverted flat spin. This is, obviously, only an option if the airplane has sufficient altitude. To exit in this way, simply input full left rudder as soon as the airplane is pointing straight down and modulate the ailerons to flatten out the spin.

Another way to cleanly exit this maneuver is to stop the rotation in a vertical attitude. When I stop the rotation in this way, I slowly ease off the throttle and let the rotation slow prior to exit. Stopping it in a vertical down-line is quite easy, and just requires a blip of throttle and a slight up-elevator input right before the airplane reaches a straight-down attitude. Stopping the tumble in a hover requires the same technique, only you wait until right before the

airplane is pointing straight up to input the up-elevator and blip the throttle. Either way, you must know how fast you can stop the rotation and how much inertia your airplane is carrying.

The last way to cleanly exit this maneuver is to roll the airplane out and continue on the initial flight path.

This is my favorite, because it shows my complete control of the airplane.

When exiting in this manner, I usually hold the throttle all the way through the tumble to maintain the energy.

After a few rotations of the tumble, when the airplane is pointing straight down, I input about 50 percent of high-rate, right-rudder and slowly ease off the down elevator while adding left aileron. After another half of a rotation is completed, I smoothly release the rudder input. At this point, the airplane is rolling on the initial flight path. When exiting in this way, I usually neutralize the ailerons as soon as the airplane is inverted and pointing in the direction of its initial flight path.

When entering this maneuver from an upright attitude, I actually start with the stick movements for a deep, negative-G snap roll. This consists of a small amount of down elevator with about 50 percent of high-rate, right rudder and about 25 degrees of left aileron. After the airplane completes half of a rotation with these inputs, I smoothly and quickly increase the elevator input to full down, reduce the left aileron input to around 10 degrees, and add just a little left rudder. At this point, the airplane is well into the gyroscopic rotation of the Lomcevak/crankshaft and the rest of the control inputs are the same as we discussed above.

OVERVIEW Learning and mastering both of these maneuvers is an excellent challenge, but a very rewarding one. Being able to precisely control your airplane in all aspects of flight, including extreme aerobatics, will give you amazing confidence at the control sticks. It will put you on top of your game! Keep practicing, make every maneuver count, and fly ahead of the airplane!

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HOW TO

DEGREASING THE GREASIES D Buy a bottle of Palmolive soap to use for your mixture of water and soap. It works great and is inexpensive.

A couple of dollars will buy you a good spray bottle that you can use for you soap and water mixture. It works well for this mixture.

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BY Jeff Troy

ozens of commercial model airplane and RC car cleaners have been offered to modelers over the years. Some have worked well, others not so well while still others never worked at all. Kitchen, bath and all-purpose household cleaners have been used extensively, too, but even the most popular of these cleaners just blended themselves into the burned fuel-oil residue on our models, swirling the grime around, eventually removing most of it but still leaving a greasy film behind that never would come clean.

Modelers soon understood the uselessness of these so-called solutions, eventually abandoning most of them and brewing up some interesting concoctions of their own.

Ammonia and water is one popular solution, but have you ever seen the plastic rear window of a convertible top that has been cleaned with glass cleaners for awhile? They are dull, faded and almost impossible to see through, right? Right! That’s because ammonia attacks and dulls plastics— and paint—and while it isn’t too bad for plastic films like MokoKote and UltraCote, it’s one of the worst things you can use to clean a painted model airplane. Needles to say that volatile solutions such as paint thinners, automotive degreasers and similar hardcore products can be utterly devastating on a model’s surface.

Most of us have our favorite

As you can see, my model is now covered with grease and grime. I always wipe my models down after flying them.

cleaning concoctions. Yours may work just as well as mine, maybe worse, maybe even better.

Regardless of how your own does for you, mine has proved itself to me and many other pilots over several decades of flying free flight, control line and radio control model airplanes, and even a few RC cars and helicopters. My simple solution is Original Palmolive Green dish detergent and water—nothing else.

Palmolive Green has been cutting the grease on the nastiest frying pans, baking pans and oven rotisseries since its introduction.

Apply a few drops of Palmolive Green to a wet sponge, wipe it over a greasy pan and watch the grime disappear. I use a Palmolive Greenand-water mix on my models, and get the same result every time— clean, grease-free models.

Here’s the deal. Get one of those garden spray bottles sold at hardware and home goods stores. Fill it with tap water and add several drops of Original Palmolive Green detergent.

Give it a little shake and watch it foam. That tells you that it’s ready.

Spray the mix over a greasy model, wipe it down with a paper towel and it’s ready to take back home without gumming up your car.

You can use this solution on film-covered models, fabric-covered models, painted models, metal surfaces, plastic surfaces and even the rubber tires on your airplane, cars or helicopters. The only no-no is bare, untreated wood, because the wood grain will absorb any liquid that hits it—and why would you have grease on an untreated, bare wood part of your model?

My mix of Palmolive Green and water gets sprayed on the model after it has been flown and ready to go home.

Taking the grease and grime off your airplane after each flying session will keep it look new for a long time.

A few paper towels work superb for removing the grease and grime from my airplane, especially with the Palmolive mix.

I use a model stand to hold my model before and after flight. This is how my biplane looks after I’ve cleaned it with my special mix.

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HOW TO

HOW TO WIPERS KEEP IT QUIET! YOU’LL REDUCE DRAG

BY Wil Byers

I

’ve had my 1/3-scale, 6-meter wingspan, ASG-29 sailplane for about three years. It is a super soaring machine, with an exceptionally good lift-over-drag ratio. It truly has “legs” when it comes to thermal searching. It is also pretty fast when you reflex the wings trailing edge about five degrees and then step on the “gas” a bit. What I like about this model is how well it

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climbs in thermals, especially if you manage its airspeed well. All around, it is a very enjoyable sailplane to fly.

WHAT IS As I readied the ASG-29 for this year’s soaring season, I noticed that the wipers on the flaps, ailerons and elevator were starting to come loose.

They were also starting to get pretty brittle.

As you can see, the wipers are about .008 inches thick and are just made of clear plastic material.

RC SPORT FLYER . DECEMBER 2013

2

If you don’t know what wipers are, they are small, thin pieces of plastic. They have a sight amount of camber molded into them so they stay pressed against the wing when applied properly. Wipers are used to seal the small gap that exists between the wing/elevator and its respective control surface. On a molded composite sailplane, such as the ASG-29, the control surfaces

The Icare wipers have a curve molded into them, which helps them stay attached to the control surfaces during deflections.

use what is termed a living hinge. A living hinge is typically used on the top of the wing. It is often a piece of Kevlar® that was embedded in the composite matrix when the part (wing or whatever) was laid up in the mold. When the part comes out of the mold the control surfaces are part of the wing—not cut free. So after scoring the hinge line with a very sharp and narrow cutting bit, the bottom of the control surface must be cut free of the wing so that control surface can move. To do this the manufacture will use a special cutter to cut a notch out of the bottom of the wing, once it has been removed from the molding tool. This notch or cut is typically about 1/8 to 1/4 inch in width. What a wiper does

My 6-meter wingspan ASG-29 is making its final approach to a landing during last spring’s Yakima Aerotow event.

3

You must use an adhesive to bond the wipers to the wing’s surface. I bought Promipáska tape from Icare.

is bridge this gap to stop air from flowing into it. If wipers are not used, the air that flows into the gap creates extra drag on the wing, which is typically evident by the whistling sound that is created by the air flowing into and across the gap.

INSTALL Because my ASG-29’s wipers were in need of changing, the first step in their replacement was removing the old wipers. That is easy! You simply slide a single-edge razor blade under one end of the wiper such that you can get enough wiper free to pull on. Then you must slowly pull them off of the composite surfaces.

Removing the wipers is easy.

Adding wipers to the wings’ and elevator’s control surfaces will give your model glider / sailplane or even airplane a slight performance gain.

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When the control surface is cut free of the wing after the molding, it leaves a slight gap, which adds drag.

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HOW TO WIPERS

This shows the wiper’s adhesive applied to the wing. It adjoins the control surface’s gap as near as possible.

However, doing so will leave behind an adhesive residue on the composite that must be removed before you apply the new wipers. I use an automotive paint cleaner on an old cotton T-shirt to soften the old adhesive, which will then come off. To remove the adhesive requires a bit of elbow work, but in 30 minutes or less you’ll have it all off.

You must get it off all the surfaces where the new wipers’ adhesive will get placed in order to get a good

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6

Here the adhesive’s backing is being removed from the wing. You must make certain the adhesive is bonded tight to the wing.

bond to the wings’ surfaces. Then you’ll want to clean the surfaces with denatured alcohol to get them clean of any residue. The alcohol step is very important to getting a good bond between the wing and the adhesive.

Once you have removed all the old adhesive, you’ll apply the new adhesive. I ordered it from Icare (icare-rc). The name is Promipáska. I also order the plastic wiper material from Icare.

When you apply the adhesive to the wing you’ll need to be careful not to get it bunched up in places. Just go slow, rubbing down the tape as you apply it. Also, leave a little extra at each of the ends. You’ll be able to cut away the excess with a singleedge razor blade after the adhesive has been applied.

After the adhesive has been applied to the leading edge side of the gap, and been rubbed down to create a strong bond between wing

At this point the wiper has been attached to the wing and the cutout has been made for the control horn.

DISTRIBUTOR

and adhesive, you will remove the adhesive’s backing material. Again, proceed carefully with this step such that you do not pull the adhesive free of the wing’s surfaces. Once the backing material is removed you’ll be ready to apply the wipers.

Applying the wipers to the wing can be somewhat troublesome in that you must get it running straight with the hinge line. If you don’t, you’ll end up with the wiper not covering the gap. Alternately, the wiper will

Icare/Icarus 890 ch. d’Anjou, Unit 1 Boucherville, QC J4B-5E4 Canada Phone: 405-449-9094 icare-rc.com

8

This is what the wiper looks like once it has been attached to the wing and the control rod as been reattached to its control horn.

cover the gap, but have very little bonding surface on the wing’s surface. An extra set of hands can help much, but I did these myself. It is just a matter of bonding one end down to about one half inch of the wing’s surface and then aligning the wiper to the rest of the wing/gap.

When you have the wiper down on the adhesive I recommend you press it tightly against the adhesive to get a good bond between the plastic wiper and the adhesive. An old credit card works wonders for making this happen. Also, know you can see the bond between plastic and adhesive through the plastic wiper. So, do a good inspection of the entire length of the wiper before proceeding. Let me add, if your model’s wipers were to come free in flight it could end up badly for the aircraft. It is therefore advised to check and double-check the wipers’ bonds.

Once the wipers are firmly in their respective positions, you’ll need to trim the ends, as well as around any control horns, linkages or such.

Trimming the ends is easy. You’ll use a sharp, single-edge razor blade to do the cutting. Place the blade at the end position where you want to make the cut. Press it at about a 45-degree angle against the plastic, and hold it firm. Then pull up on the wiper material such that the blade makes a clean cut. I’ve done this many times and it works well.

Next you may possibly need to make cutouts at the control horns, linkages, or other protrusions

on the control surfaces. For this I recommend a new and very sharp No. 11 Exacto® blade. I also recommend you use a pen and draw the required cut lines on the wiper before cutting it. You MUST put something between the wiper and controls surface too or you will cut into the composite or covering material. A piece of cereal box works great for this purpose.

Once these cuts are made, the wiper should be firmly in place, and the wing ready to fly.

CONCLUSION For just a few dollars spent you can improve the performance of your glider by reducing the wings’ and elevator’s drag. This is an inexpensive option for a little performance boost. It will also make your model much quieter in the air.

And, quiet is good, right? Well, in terms of drag it is!

SPECIFICATIONS

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Model : 1/3-scale ASG-29 Wingspan : 6.00 m (236 in.)

Length : 2.18 m (86 in.)

Wing area : 120 dm2 (1860 sq2) Wing airfoil : HQ 2.5/13 Wing loading : 91 g/dm2 (30 oz/ft2) Flying Weight : 11 kg (24 lb) Transmitter : Jeti DC-16 Receiver : Jeti Duplex R14 Servos : JR digital

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E-POWER

WATT IT ALL ADDS UP TO IS POWER AT THE PROPELLER

BY Andrew Gibbs

This front view of the Wind 50e shows the relatively large propeller. The Wind 50e uses a relatively low Kv motor running on 6S power to turn the propeller.

I

n this issue I’ll begin a discussion of the practical aspects of electric motors. Before we get down to motor talk, let’s discuss another inspirational model: SEBART WIND 50E Bob Partington built the SebArt Wind 50e. It is from Sebastiano Silvestra, a top Italian F3A flyer and designer.

Bob bought his model to help hone his aerobatics piloting skills. He says he finds the model very pleasant to fly.

Some of his observations are that his model’s best center of gravity position is 8.25 inches back from wing’s leading edge, which is further aft than the instructions state. He says that there is virtually no associated roll or pitch when the model is yawed with the rudder.

This lack of coupling between the different axis helps to make a model easier to fly with precision.

The model comes with two wing fences per side. These help to

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prevent span wise flow, and they add side area, which helps in knife-edge maneuvers. They are also supposed to help with tracking in side winds.

size. It has a wingspan of 62.2 in. and a wing area of 806 sq in., so it carries a wing loading of 21.6 oz / ft2. This also is low for a model of this size.

POWER The SebArt Wind 50e power system is a Hacker A50-16S V2, which has a Kv of 378. The battery is a Turnigy 6S 5000-mAh LiPo pack and the ESC is a 77-amp Jeti Advance Pro ESC. The motor turns a 16x10 Xoar wooden propeller, which makes for full-throttle current of 60 amps. When you do the math that equates to 1330 watts.

The model weighs 7 lb 9 oz, which is good for an airplane this

CANALISER Having flown his model much, Bob got really familiar with its performance and responses to control inputs.

He subsequently decided to experiment by fitting it with a canaliser. A Canaliser is a small horizontal flying surface fitted above the fuselage, at about the halfway point. A canaliser is used to improve rudder response by straightening the airflow to the rudder that has been

disrupted by the propeller.

Bob initially fitted the airplane with a small 12-in. canaliser. This had a negligible effect. It was therefore replaced with a 16-in. Bob says, it proved to be effective, and that less rudder is now required for a given control response. Effectively, the canaliser makes the rudder more powerful. Knife-edge flight required very little rudder input and the rudder response was harmonized with the aileron and elevator. Knife-edge loops were even much easier to do.

POWER SYSTEMS – PART 3 Previously I discussed the relationship between voltage,

The canaliser Bob fitted to his model is covered in matching film, which makes it look like it is part of the original equipment.

resistance and current—it is known as Ohm’s Law. Electrons are said to flow from positive to negative. For a current to flow, a complete electrical circuit must exist. The battery serves to drive the flow of current around the circuit, that is until the battery’s chemical action is exhausted. Then it must be recharged.

BATTERY FUNCTION The battery performs two functions in an airplane’s electric power system. It supplies the energy that powers the motor. It also supplies electrical “pressure” for the current in amps. It is helpful to think

The four holes cut into the cowling provide the much-needed cooling air to flow in and over the motor, battery and ESC, which keeps them running at optimum.

of the battery as a reservoir of energy and the electromotive force (EMF) required to generate electron flow.

POWER Power in the case of our systems is the energy that is delivered to do a mechanical function such as turning a motor. Mechanical energy can be defined in horsepower, or electrically in the unit of watts.

WATTS Watts is abbreviated as W. One horsepower is equivalent to 746 watts. The typical 60-watt light bulb therefore consumes a bit less than 1/10 hp. An indoor model’s power

The model is fitted with two wing fences per side. They are claimed to also help the model with tracking in cross-wind conditions.

Bob Partington’s SebArt Wind 50e is a attractive, well-designed F3A model. Bob modified his airplane by fitting a canaliser.

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The model’s two air outlets have been carefully styled to provide the most airflow, while at the same time reducing the drag to a minimum.

Bob displays his model proudly. Notice the model’s long moment arm and the striking color scheme that makes it easy to see in flight.

A Turnigy 6S 5000-mAh LiPo delivers current for the motor. Bob fitted his model with a five-cell NiMH battery to power the receiver and servos.

system may run at around 25 watts, a typical park flyer at 60 watts, while an average 400-size model would use about 150 watts. By comparison, a 0.40-in.2 glow engine might develop about 520 watts (about 0.7 hp) when turning a 10 × 6 propeller.

A very simple equation tells us how to find the watts generated by a power system:

WATTS = VOLTS X AMPS For example, a motor drawing powered by 8 volts and that draws 10 amps generates 80 watts of power: (8 volts x 10 amps = 80 watts). Similarly, a motor that is powered by a 3-cell Lipo (11.1 volts) and is drawing 23 amps will deliver 255 watts of power: (11.1 volts x 23 amps = 255 watts). So it is that an electric motor converts energy into the mechanical power, which is necessary to turn the model’s propeller.

This view of the equipment bay shows the ESC is Velcro attached to the side. It also shows the lightweight construction, much of which is laser cut lite-plywood.

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TORQUE Torque is the name given to a turning or twisting force that results in rotation. Torque is defined as the product of force multiplied by a radius arm (lever-arm distance).

Torque therefore has to be defined in terms by the specific units of measure. For example oz-in. or lb-ft.

An example of a relatively low torque could be a servo that delivers 80 oz-in. of torque. This means the servo can deliver 80 ounces of force at a radius of one inch (80 x 1 = 80).

This view of the model’s rear equipment bay shows the receiver, the wing tube and the receiver battery. Notice how the battery is tiewrapped securely in place.

The aileron linkage is driven from an inner servo arm hole to provide as much torque as possible. This is a better solution to control throws than reducing servo travel.

The Jeti 77-amp ESC is located in the front of the equipment bay where it can get lots of cool air flowing over it to keep it running at its best.

The model’s tail surfaces are elegantly shaped. Bob tells us the model requires very little control coupling, and is especially so with the canaliser.

Alternately, it can deliver 160 ounces at one half inch (160 x 0.5 = 80).

Although it is useful for us to understand torque, specific values of torque are rarely quoted by electric motor manufacturers.

MECHANICAL Mechanical power is usually measured in horsepower. One horsepower is equivalent to 746 watts. So if we had a 100 percent efficient electric motor and we put 746 watts into it, it would deliver one horsepower of mechanical power.

Of course, a real motors are not 100 percent efficient.

Mechanical power for a rotating system, such as a model airplane’s electric motor can be defined like this: power = torque x rpm.

This simple equation allows us to see that two different designs of

Bob points to the location he has found to be the best center of gravity position for his SebArt Wind 50e, and for his piloting preference.

electric motor can supply the same amount of power in different ways.

For example, an outrunner motor typically offers a high torque at a relatively low rpm, while an inrunner offers high rpm but at low torque. So an outrunner producing 350 watts could turn a relatively large propeller at 8,000 rpm. Alternately, an inrunner that produces 350 watts could turn a small ducted fan impeller or rotor at 25,000 rpm.

READER’S QUESTION A question from Mike in Colorado ties in nicely with this theme. Mike asked about the Kv of electric motor performance. His (edited) letter says: “Andrew, I have an ARC 3675-1 motor (Kv = 1680) installed in a HET 9305 90-mm EDF (electric ducted fan) unit. I am thinking about replacing this fan with a newly RC-SF.COM

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The designer of the SebArt Wind 50e is Sebastiano Silvestra, an accomplished F3A pilot from Italy.

SPECIFICATIONS

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Wingspan:

65 in.

Weight: 7 lb 9 oz Motor: Hacker A60-16S V2 ESC: 77-amp Jeti Advance Pro Battery: Turnigy 6S 5000-mAh LiPo Propeller: 16x10 Xoar Transmitter: Graupner Tx

A model’ battery serves two functions: it stores electrical energy by way of a chemical reaction between two plates (positive and negative electrodes), it will pump electrons through a circuit based on its output voltage.

Electric motors convert electrical energy from a battery into mechanical power in the form of torque and rpm, with the electronic speed controller acting as the on/off switch that delivers voltage and current to the windings in the motor.

marketed 11-blade Midi Fan Evo. I asked the retailer if this would be a good idea. I fly in Denver, where the altitude is 5300 feet. This was the answer I gave…

“The 11 blade rotor uses about a 10% lower Kv motor than the standard Wemotec (or HET) rotor does, so you would need a 10% lower Kv motor or about a 1500 Kv motor. If the motor is between 1500 and 1680 Kv, it will simply provide more thrust, though at a higher current.”

I am aware that Kv is the rpm per volt rating. I’m guessing that the 11 blade fan might need more power but turn slower, because of all the blades. My first thought was that the motor would just turn slower but now I’m thinking the lower Kv is

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RC SPORT FLYER . DECEMBER 2013

needed because of all the blades. I think what I am not grasping is that lower Kv doesn’t mean slower but that the windings in the motor are such that it produces more power.

Anyhow, could you provide your thoughts on this please?”

Here’s my answer: You are correct that a lower Kv means a slower turning motor for a given voltage.

However, a lower rotational speed does not necessarily mean that a motor is providing less power. For example, a 16x8 propeller turning at 7000 rpm will consume more power than a 6x3 propeller turning at 20,000 rpm.

For a given motor and battery combination, the current draw is determined by the load the fan (or propeller) places on a given motor.

Receiver: Spektrum Rx Servos: HS635HB (rud), HS5625MG (elev), HS5245 MG (ail) Flight durations: 10 minutes (3900 mA used)

All else being equal, a larger fan or one with more blades will cause the load and therefore the current to increase. This is why your retailer is saying you need a lower Kv motor to run the new 11-blade fan to get the same performance as with the standard HET or Wemotec fan. In his experience, the 11-blade fan would place a greater load on the motor. In other words, the proposed 11-blade fan will draw more current for the same rpm than your HET fan.

However, there is another issue you have highlighted. At high altitude, air density is less than it is at sea level. At 5300 feet the fan will draw less current for a given rpm, but deliver less thrust. To compensate for density altitude, you should use a motor with a slightly higher Kv. This will result in a higher fan rpm and circuit current.

To determine if the motor/fan combination is right you’ll need to measure the performance.

NEXT MONTH Next time, I’ll look at motor efficiency. You can reach me at andrew@gibbsguides.com and get my book at gibbsguides.com.

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FPV RESCUE

HOBBYISTS DEMONSTRATE SMALL UNMANNED AIRCRAFT SYSTEMS TO THE PUBLIC SAFETY COMMUNITY

BY Lucidity, Roswell Flight Test Crew

H

ere at the Roswell Flight Test Crew, we fly First-Person View (FPV) first and foremost because it is a lot of fun. Like the overwhelming majority of you, I suspect, we are hobbyists—nobody pays us to fly. However, from the very first moment that Techinstein described the emerging field of FPV to me, I was struck by the potential real-world applications of this technology, most especially for firefighters and other first responders.

Consequently, we’ve made demonstrating that potential one of our primary missions. We’ve

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RC SPORT FLYER . DECEMBER 2013

previously flown over structural and wildland fire-fighting exercises, and this past summer we had the opportunity to participate in an intensive, two-day series of drills with the local fire department in Eugene, Oregon—thanks to our friends at Rising Tide Innovations.

This effort included three separate training scenarios: a hasty river search, a hazardous material spill and a structure fire.

UP A CREEK In our first exercise, a man drifting down the Willamette River in an inner tube became separated from

his floatation device and was last seen struggling to reach one of several small, wooded islands in the vicinity. An “eyewitness” on a nearby pedestrian bridge provided this information to firefighters when they arrived on scene.

In this case, the “victim” was actually another firefighter who had been put ashore on a nearby island by boat, to see whether or not our flagship FPV platform—RQCX-3 Raven—could help the Incident Commander (IC) find him faster than conventional search techniques.

To be honest, it wasn’t much of a challenge. The best practice for a

When viewed through Raven’s visible light camera, the tanker carrying molten phenol is indistinguishable from the rest of the rail cars in the yard. However, changing over to the FLIR thermal imaging camera immediately reveals which of them is carrying a deadly cargo.

responding engine crew in this type of incident is to pick their way along the shoreline with throw bags in hand, hoping to spot the person in distress. In the meantime, the water rescue team is driving to the nearest river access point with their boat in tow. After launching it, they have to race up river to the location where the victim was last seen.

It’s a textbook response by a team of highly trained, determined and resourceful professionals, but they were no match for Raven—the bird with a bowl for a bonnet—especially because it is equipped with a military-grade FLIR thermal imaging camera for this exercise.

As it leapt into the air, Techinstein was on the sticks flying FPV, the IC was wearing our extra set of goggles and I was serving as the spotter. Maneuvering in clear air, Techinstein nosed over and pushed Raven upstream at her maximum speed of 40 miles per hour. Slowing as he approached the first island, he switched over from Raven’s GoPro to the thermal camera.

A few seconds later, the IC called out, “I can see him!”

When observed by means of the heat radiating from his body as a warm-blooded mammal, our “victim” was easy to pick out among the vegetation, even though he was nearly impossible to see through the visible light camera.

Another interesting development was that the IC spotted him first, even though Techinstein has far more experience with FPV. This fact suggested to us that having an observer watching the live video feed, in addition to the pilot, is probably a really good idea.

A thousand feet down range from her launch point, RQCX-3 “Raven” inspects a tanker car transporting a potentially lethal load of molten phenol.

With Techinstein on the sticks, the Incident Commander (IC) watches Raven’s progress through a pair of Fat Shark goggles.

The pilot’s attention is necessarily going to be divided between safely operating the aircraft, monitoring its systems and performance via the On-Screen Display (OSD) and looking for the victim. However, a dedicated observer can devote all of his or her attention to finding the missing subject.

With the victim located, the IC was able to direct the water rescue team to his precise location immediately, saving time that could

be the difference between life and death in a real-life incident.

After the first round, the score was: FPV 1, Conventional Technique 0.

DON’T GO THERE Next up was our hazardous material drill, which took place at a nearby Union Pacific rail yard. To begin with, I have to tell you that after this experience, I’m never going to look at a train the same way again.

Some really, really, really nasty stuff RC-SF.COM

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FPV RESCUE

The view from Raven’s visible-light camera and her FLIR thermal imager at the precise moment the Incident Commander (IC) spotted the “victim,” who swam to a nearby island after falling off his inner tube. Lost amid the vegetation in the visible-light image, he stands out as the small, white dot on the right side of the island in the thermal picture.

Raven provides an overhead view as firefighters cut a vent hole in the roof of the threestory “burn house” on the Eugene Fire Department’s training ground. A few small flames can be seen leaping up out of the hole in the visible-light image, but the FLIR thermal imaging camera reveals the full extent of the plume of heat escaping from the structure.

travels around the country by rail and when it goes off the tracks or bursts into flames, it’s up to local firefighters to safely deal with it.

Of course, you need to know what you’re dealing with before you can come up with a plan to deal with it. Fortunately, all tankers transporting hazardous materials are required to display diamond-shaped placards identifying their cargo. In this scenario, our goal was simply to read the placard on a rail car 1,000 feet downrange.

We anticipated that this was going to be a pretty straight-forward exercise: fly down along the tracks, pick out a tanker and get close enough to read the placard—easy.

We’d done pretty much the same thing many times before at a local park, dropping in to read interpretive signs about the local flora and fauna.

After getting airborne, Techinstein punched the throttle to put on some altitude and get an overview of the whole area. Switching over to

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RC SPORT FLYER . DECEMBER 2013

the FLIR, he immediately noticed a tanker in the distance, glowing white in the thermal imager.

“Let’s take a closer look at that,” said the IC. Techinstein moved Raven towards the distant tanker, pulling back on the throttle to bleed off altitude as he approached. Moving alongside the tanker, the IC had him switch back to the visible light camera, revealing the hazmat placard: 2312.

“It’s a poison,” the IC told us, trying to recall the specific substance identified by the placard.

A moment later, he had the answer: “Molten phenol.”

If just the name—molten phenol— suggests to you that this is really, truly awful stuff, you’ve got good instincts. Afterward, the firefighters told us that if you get seven square inches of it on your skin, you’re dead.

See what I mean about never looking at a train the same way again?

Molten phenol is shipped hot and, apparently, its used in the

manufacture of adhesives. Knowing that, I’m probably never going to look at a bottle of glue the same way again, either.

Anyway, the IC told us what Raven had done in less than five minutes would typically require a team of 10 firefighters in hazmat gear an hour to accomplish—and that’s just to find out what’s in the tanker.

Only once they have that information can they actually start to come up with a plan to contain the spill.

After the second round, the score was: FPV 2, Conventional Technique 0.

BURNIN’ DOWN THE HOUSE The following day was the main event: a structure fire. Most large municipal fire departments maintain a “burn room” where firefighters can practice their craft with live fire. The Eugene Fire Department has a threestory burn house. It’s an amazing facility: Imagine a 2000-square-foot brick oven and you’ll have some

appreciation for the scale of this thing.

Ahead of live fire training, they load the house up with damaged wooden shipping pallets donated by local businesses and then they set it ablaze. Until you’ve been up close to an actual structure fire or one of these burn rooms, you don’t actually know what the word “hot” means—it makes you all the more appreciative of the brave men and women who charge into the inferno to save lives.

Today, Raven’s task was to monitor the roof of the structure as the exercise progressed. A common technique in fighting structure fires is to cut a hole in the roof of the building—allowing the heat trapped inside to escape. This makes sense if you remember the fire triangle from grade school. In order to keep burning, a fire needs three things: oxygen, fuel and heat. By allowing some of the heat to escape through the roof, firefighters are able to “turn down the volume” on the fire.

It’s an effective technique, but it’s also extremely dangerous. One of the most common causes of death among firefighters in this type of scenario is falling through the roof of a burning building. An airborne thermal imaging camera might be able to help minimize this risk by finding hot spots on the roof before they collapse.

The current best practice to avoiding this danger is to move slowly across the roof, probing the way ahead with a pole—not an especially high-tech or reliable approach.

Of course, the burn house is made of steel-reinforced concrete protected by heat-resistant tiles like you’d find on the belly of the space shuttle, so it isn’t going to collapse. However, there is a hole in the roof that is covered over with plywood before the exercise starts, so that firefighters can get hands-on experience with this technique.

Raven hovered nearby as the exercise progressed, sending back images from her on board FLIR. Watching the thermal image feed on a flat-panel display mounted on the nearby mobile command post, we could clearly see heat pouring out of

the vent, even before the firefighters cut through the plywood— demonstrating the feasibility of this technique.

With that, the final score was: FPV 3, Conventional Technique 0.

COA: IT RHYMES WITH BOA The firefighters, from the chief right on down to the guys and gals on the front line, were impressed with the results and decided that

STARK RAVEN MAD

Although she will likely be outclassed in the coming years by aircraft with mission-specific designs and incorporating the most recent technology, RQCX-3 “Raven” has been the Roswell Flight Test Crew’s flagship since her public debut on January 4, 2012.

A hexacopter built on a custom HoverThings 550-mm frame, she is carried aloft by Cobra 2217/16 1180 Kv motors driven by 40-amp HobbyWing Platinum Pro ESCs and a DJI NAZA (v1) flight control system. She is equipped with a GoPro 2 sports camera, a HRC-20EX low-light camera and a FLIR Tau2 640 thermal imaging camera.

FROM THE LAW FIRM OF KAFKA, HELLER AND VONNEGUT

The current state of Federal Aviation Administration (FAA) regulations pertaining to the use of Small Unmanned Aircraft Systems (SUAS) is a bizarre wonderland of contradictions and absurdities that would leave Jonathan Swift gasping for air. In brief, here is the current state of play: 1. Hobbyists are free to operate SUAS within the generous bounds established for them by FAA Advisory Circular 91-57 in 1981, provided they do not receive financial remuneration for their efforts.

2. Public safety agencies must complete a painstaking Certificate of Authorization (COA) process before being allowed to operate SUAS. 3. Businesses are prohibited from

they wanted to move ahead and get their own system. Unfortunately, establishing a “drone” program at the fire department entails more than a firefighter going down to the local hobby shop, purchasing an F-550 and rigging it up with FPV gear.

The Federal Aviation Administration (FAA) requires public safety agencies to complete a Certificate of Authorization (COA) process before they can fly Small

The feed from each of the cameras can be selected while she is airborne by means of a FoxTechFPV 3-Way Cam Switch. The video feed is overlaid with an On-Screen Display provided by an EagleTree OSD Pro connected to a v4 eLogger and a GPS antenna.

Built specifically to serve as a demonstration platform for public safety operations, all of her core systems are enclosed within a 13-cup Rubbermaid “TakeAlong” salad bowl as a weatherproof enclosure, allowing her to operate in rain, snow and other adverse conditions. Yellow paint has been applied to the inside of the bowl for ease of spotting.

using SUAS for any commercial (i.e., money-making) purpose, a prohibition that will remain in place until at least 2015.

So, let’s review: If you want to have fun, go for it! If you want to save lives, we’ve got some paperwork for you to fill out—and you must possess a medical certificate one step higher than a private pilot flying a 2000 pound manned aircraft over Los Angeles... If you want to make money, furgeddabout it! (Except that commercial operators are popping up all over the place and advertising their services openly on the Internet, and the FAA doesn’t seem to pay the slightest bit of attention until one of their birds falls out of the sky into a crowd of people, as happened earlier this year in Virginia).

In response to all that, I’ve got a three-letter acronym of my own: WTF?

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FPV RESCUE

Unmanned Aircraft Systems (SUAS)— the official term for FPV aircraft, or drones, or whatever else they are being called this week.

This is where our friends from Rising Tide Innovations come in: their mission is to consult with local first responders and help them navigate the bureaucratic nightmare that is the COA application process. They also help source professional-grade aircraft produced by manufacturers like Aeryon and Draganfly. It’s such a clever business model that I wish I had thought of it myself.

Still, I believe that all of us hobbyists have a critical role to play in advancing and promoting this new technology. It is still overwhelmingly likely that the first time anybody—a firefighter, a police officer, a private citizen—sees an FPV platform in action, there is going to be a hobbyist at the controls.

Therefore, it is incumbent on all of us to fly safely, responsibly and to demonstrate all the positive uses of this new technology.

HEAT (VISION)

Headquartered in Wilsonville, Oregon, FLIR is the world’s leading manufacturer of thermal imaging cameras. Its products are used across a broad range of fields from the military and public safety to industrial applications and scientific research.

Whereas conventional cameras record visible light reflected off the surface of objects, thermal imaging cameras “see” the heat radiated by objects and then use those differences to construct an image.

Because thermal variations have no intrinsic colors associated with them, the camera assigns colors to different temperatures based on a userselectable palette, which can be either

black-and-white or full color.

The default configuration, used to capture the images that accompany this story, is referred to as “whitehot,” because the hottest object in the frame appears to be white, the coldest object in the frame appears to be black and the shades of gray in between reflect temperatures between the two extremes.

The camera dynamically assigns different color values to different temperatures based on the current environmental conditions. Thus, the shades do not correspond to a specific temperature but are assigned by the camera in real time to provide the operator with the best possible picture of the environment.

FLIR Heat Scale

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COLUMN

HELICOPTERS 101, PART 1

HELICOPTER PILOTS ARE DIFFERENT

BY Dave Phelps “The thing is, helicopters are different from planes. An airplane wants to fly, and if not interfered with too strongly by unusual events or by a deliberately incompetent pilot, it will fly. A helicopter does not want to fly. It is maintained in the air by a variety of forces and controls working in opposition to each other and if there is any disturbance in this delicate balance the helicopter stops flying. Immediately and disastrously.

There is no such thing as a gliding helicopter.

This is why being a helicopter pilot is so different from being an airplane pilot, and why, in general, airplane pilots are open, clear-eyed, buoyant extroverts and helicopter pilots are brooders, introspective anticipators of trouble. They know if something bad has not happened, it is about to.”

- Harry Reasoner

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RC SPORT FLYER . DECEMBER 2013

The Blade® Nano CPX is a fun RC helicopter to fly if you are ready for a little 3D action. It is small enough to take anywhere in any car. It is also very affordable, selling for only $159.99 (bladehelis.com)

Y

ou sling wing pilots are no doubt grinning after reading this because you know just how true it is. You wannabe helicopter pilots take heed. This is not a sport for the faint of heart or the easily discouraged. It takes a special person with a burning desire to conquer overwhelming odds to become a competent RC model helicopter pilot. If, however, you like a challenge, helicopters may be just the ticket.

Helicopters are different from airplanes. Not only in the parts count of the airframes and the skills and mind-set required to build, set up, fly and maintain them, but in the aerodynamics involved. It has been said that rotor blades don’t produce

lift, they simply beat the air into submission. That is going to be the focus of the series to follow. We will examine in detail all of the forces acting on our model helicopters and how they interact and are controlled.

In other words we’re going to take a beating trying to figure out how that whole submission thing works.

(When it comes to the “who’s gonna get to use the TV remote” argument, you’re on your own though, sorry.)

Having a working knowledge of aerodynamics may not make your helicopter fly any better, but it can give you a deeper understanding of why it does what it does when it does it. It might also help you avoid certain conditions that might interfere with the delicate balance

that Mr. Reasoner spoke so eloquently of. While rotary wing aerodynamics can be a very complex and intimidating subject, it can also be a little drab. I’m one of those crazy folks that really enjoy understanding and explaining the needlessly complex, so please bear with me as I try to tamp down the exuberance I experience while helping you watch paint dry.

AERODYNAMICS In order to understand helicopter aerodynamics, it is necessary to first have an understanding of basic aerodynamics, or put more simply, how an airfoil develops lift and what else happens in the process.

There are four forces working on a lift-producing airfoil: gravity, lift, drag and thrust.

Lift is the force that overcomes gravity. For our discussion, there are two different types of gravity; one being the force that holds our feet on the ground, the other is generated by a change in direction or velocity, commonly referred to as G-force. Thrust is the force that overcomes drag. The higher the combined drag created by lift and the

This is thirty years ago (almost exactly to the day) and forty pounds lighter. September, 1983. (“There I was at 10,000 feet. Inverted hover.

Air medals dangling in my face. Bogeys to the right, big green tracers the size of basketballs coming in from the left.

Flak so thick you could walk on it… ”)

airframe structure, the higher the thrust needed to maintain a specific airspeed. The higher the G-loading or weight of an aircraft, the more lift required to keep it flying. Because the increased lift creates more drag, more thrust is needed to keep the speed up. These are the four forces that we are attempting to balance while setting the aircraft’s pitch and throttle curves so that there is little change in rotor rpm as collective pitch and therefore lift is increased and decreased.

In simplistic terms, lift is created when an airfoil is exposed to air moving over and under it, causing a

low pressure area on top and a high pressure area underneath. Because of the curve on the upper surface, the air moving over the top has a longer distance to travel and so is forced to move faster than the air on the bottom in order to arrive at the trailing edge at the same time.

The air building up beneath the airfoil pushes it upwards into the lower pressure. The amount of lift generated by an airfoil is affected by many different factors, including but not limited to airfoil shape, density of the air, the speed of the air and the “angle of attack” (the angle that is formed by the direction of the

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HELICOPTERS 101, PART 1

airflow and the chord or center line of the airfoil, often referred to as ”pitch” or “pitch angle” when talking about rotor blades). The two most important to us are: airspeed and angle of attack. The higher the airspeed the more lift an airfoil will produce at a given angle of attack.

The higher the angle of attack, the more lift an airfoil will produce at a given airspeed—to a point.

A by-product of lift is drag, or a resistance to moving through the air. The greater the lift produced, the greater the drag the airfoil creates.

This type of drag is called induced drag and is different from parasite drag (not to be confused with your lazy brother-in-law) or profile drag.

Parasite drag is the result of things like unimproved wing fillets, rivets and door handles. Profile drag is the kind of drag that a truck experiences as it pushes air out of its way as it travels down the road. Induced drag is what causes the rotor to slow down when pitch (lift) is increased without a corresponding increase in power (thrust). While parasite (parasitic) drag can be minimized by streamlining, profile drag can only be reduced by reducing frontal area.

That’s why thin winged airplanes are faster than their thicker winged brethren.

A “stall” is the term used to describe what happens when the airflow on the top surface of an airfoil stops flowing smoothly and begins separating from the top surface. The result of this separation is that the airfoil stops producing lift. A stall occurs when the angle of attack exceeds the critical angle.

This angle is dependent on the airfoil shape, but is usually somewhere around 15 to 17 degrees for most of

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our symmetrical airfoil helicopter rotor blades.

A stall can occur at any airspeed and with the aircraft in any attitude.

It is a common misconception that a stall means an airfoil has stopped producing lift because its airspeed has fallen below a certain point, causing the separation of airflow from the top of the airfoil.

The supporting evidence generally referred to is the fact that an airplane has a specific speed at which it stalls, called the stall speed. This airspeed actually refers to the speed at which the wing reaches the critical angle in level flight at a specific weight, at sea level in standard atmospheric conditions. A change in any one of these factors results in a change in the stall speed. The speed at which a stall occurs changes all the time, but the critical angle at which an airfoil stalls always remains the same regardless of any other considerations.

When the pilot of an airplane asks the wing to produce more lift

than it is capable of at any specific airspeed, it begins to stall. The wing is unable to produce lift below this airspeed because the critical angle is being exceeded. As back-pressure on the elevator is reduced (or other aerodynamic factors cause the nose to pitch down), G-loading is reduced or airspeed is increased, the wing begins creating lift again when and only when the angle of attack falls below the critical angle.

When the critical angle is exceeded, the airplane will either snap roll or mush. If one wing panel stalls before the other, it will snap roll and enter a spin if not corrected. If it continues forward with both wing panels operating in a stalled or partially stalled condition it will mush. This mush will continue even if power is increased enough to maintain flight with lift being provided solely by the engine, and will only stop when the angle of attack is reduced to less than the critical angle. 3D airplane pilots refer to prolonged flight in this stalled condition as a Harrier.

This illustration shows the four forces acting in equilibrium. If the pilot pulls pitch on an aerodynamically balanced airfoil, it will produce more lift. The reaction will be that the helicopter climbs in an effort to balance the extra lift with an increase in gravity. Another reaction will be more induced drag, and if no power is added, the rotor speed will decay until drag equals thrust again— nature abhors imbalance. If any of these forces change either by the actions of the pilot or by an act of nature, the pilot must change the others, or nature will do it. And unlike most pilots, nature isn’t the least bit concerned with the consequences of its actions.

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Although airspeed directly affects the amount of lift that an airfoil develops, a stall can only occur when the critical angle is exceeded. This relationship can be demonstrated with a stall turn, commonly called a hammerhead. As the airplane slows on its vertical leg towards the stall turn, its airspeed falls well below the stall speed of the airplane, but the wing continues to create lift. The lift needed from the wing is negligible as the airplane is headed vertically and the engine is providing all of the necessary lift. Rudder is applied just before the airspeed reaches zero, and the airplane then yaws until it is flying vertically downward. The term stall turn is somewhat of a misnomer as at no time during the maneuver does the wing actually stall. Its lift is reduced to near zero only because its angle of attack is near zero and very little air is moving over it.

Another demonstration of the relationship of lift, airspeed and angle of attack is an accelerated stall. Anyone that has ever flown a heavy or high-performance airplane and has experienced a snap roll in a tight turn or pull-out from a dive has experienced firsthand that a stall can occur at any airspeed and any aircraft attitude.

In this scenario, the lift required from the wing is increased because of G-force, very likely many times the actual weight of the aircraft, to the point it can no longer increase lift through an increase in angle of attack. At that airspeed, the airfoil is producing all the lift it can. Pulling a little more elevator is just asking for a stall because it’s already at the critical angle, and more elevator means more angle of attack. But an increase in airspeed would increase the amount of lift being generated, allowing the wing to support more load before stalling.

This is why a high rotor head speed is desirable for helicopter aerobatics. The higher the head speed, the more lift that can be generated before the rotor blades stall. But an extremely high head speed presents problems of a different kind. Five thousand rpm would prevent almost any blade stall, but it just isn’t going to happen

This airfoil is producing lift and is in balance with all the forces. At this airspeed, there is still plenty of room for increasing the angle of attack or pitch, so maneuvering should not present any problems for the pilot.

This airfoil is producing all the lift it can at this airspeed and the airflow is just about to break loose from the upper surface. Any increase in pitch or decrease in airspeed will make the airfoil stall.

This airfoil has exceeded its critical angle of attack and is in a fully stalled condition. Although it is producing a small amount of lift by virtue of the air underneath, it is creating much more drag than lift—harrier time!

without incurring a severe case of blue blades. High centrifugal force will cause pieces to go flying off or lock up preventing movement.

Everything concerning helicopter aerodynamics is a trade off; nothing happens without affecting something else. We’ll see some more of that phenomenon later.

There is obviously a lot more to basic aerodynamics, but for the sake of our discussion this overview should be sufficient. We will revisit basic aerodynamics in more detail a little later when we try to untangle the spaghetti bowl of rotary wing aerodynamics—autorotation.

In our next installment (January

2014 issue) I will discuss helicopter terminology and definitions specific to helicopters. I will examine helicopter control systems and their functions. We will also start to look at some of the physical forces acting on rotary wing aircraft. If that doesn’t get you dizzy, nothing will.

Until then, may your bearings stay smooth and your blades stay in track.

Also, check out some of my content in the upcoming RC-SF newsletter.

Sign up at rc-sf.com and then click on the NEWS tab.

RC-SF.COM

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DUPLEX DC/DS-16 HOW TO GET HER IN THE MODE

I use my DC-16 to control my 1/3-scale ASG-29 sailplane. You can program into its memory a set of flight modes very easily, plus it has superb telemetry features.

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BY Wil Byers

I

f you are not yet using flight modes to enhance your piloting of an RC airplane, helicopter or glider, you must do so in the future. They’re easy to add to your transmitter’s programming setups.

Moreover, they are a very powerful tools. They are a must for any RCer that wants to “amp” up their piloting.

How so? The reality is that flight modes will take much of the workload off of the pilot no matter the airplane’s mode of flight. Whatever you are trying to accomplish as a pilot, flight modes will help. For example, if you want to reconfigure your airplane for landing, you can program a flight mode to help. Once the flight mode is programmed, you will simply flip a switch or press a button to activate the specified flight mode. The radio’s program will tell the airplane’s receiver how to configure its

The DS-16 offers the same programming functions and features, but it comes in a more compact case. Note that four of its switch sit atop the transmitter’s case.

This is the 3-position switch installed in the DS-16 transmitter. I added one to my DC-16. It is easy to install, but requires you do some minor soldering.

1

To program flight modes you must enter the main menu and then navigate to the Fine Tuning menu.

2

Once you’ve entered the Fine Tuning menu, you will find Flight Modes at the top of the list.

3

This is the Flight Modes default screen.

You will add flight modes by pressing the F3 function key.

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JETI DUPLEX DC/DS-16

respective servos for that mode. You can even have delays on a function, or have that function take place over a specified period of time—not to mention you can combine controls.

Truly, the sky is the limit when it comes to being creative with flight modes.

STEP BY STEP Let me start by telling you the Jeti DC-16 and DS-16 transmitters are identical in terms of programming and functions. So, what I’ll explain is applicable to either transmitter/ receiver combination.

Here, I’ll detail how I programmed some basic flight modes into my DC-16 transmitter for my 1/3-scale, 6-meter wingspan ASG-29 sailplane.

This model uses two aileron servos (one per side), two spoiler servos (one per side), four flap servos (two per side), one elevator servo, one rudder servo, as well as a retract and aerotow release servo.

For the 3-position switch install, you must route three wires down through the control stick. Then you must solder them to the PCB board as is shown in this photo.

4

I’ve added a flight mode to the Flight Modes menu. Once you’ve added one, you’ll confirm with the F5 key.

5

Using the 3D Control Selector, you will navigate to the Label position to name the flight mode.

6

You can use upper- and lower-case letters, plus numbers and some special characters for the name.

7

When you have navigated to the Switch setting in the Flight Modes menu you will be asked to select a switch.

8

At this screen I have selected switch Sj to be the switch to control the flight mode for Speed.

9

Note that you must use the OK button to confirm your choice of switch. You can use Clr to pick a different switch.

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1 You’ll start to program a flight mode by turning on your DC-16 transmitter and then pressing its Menu button, which is located just above and to the right of the 3D control selector.

2 Then you will use the 3D control selector to navigate down to the Fine Tuning menu.

Then you must push the selector button to get to the next menu.

3 At the top of the list you’ll see the selection for Flight Modes.

Again, press the selector button to enter the Flight Modes menu.

4

Note that when you have navigated into the Flight Modes menu there will be a default flight mode. It will be named Default. At the Flight Modes menu you will use the F3 function button to add flight modes.

These are the switches that you’ll want to buy to add to the ease of using flight modes, and to making configuration changes.

10

You can copy a flight mode. Doing so will speed the programming process for multiple modes.

11

Here I’m editing the Speed flight mode to become the Landing mode. Again, you must use the F5 key to confirm.

12

For my model’s Landing mode I’ve opted to use the Sk switch, which is a switch on the face of the transmitter.

13

This is what the screen will look like once you’ve made a couple additions for your model’s flight modes.

14

Notice that I’m not using a global setting for the flaps because I want to program them separately.

15

You can see that I’ve set the Flaps for 17% reflex for speed mode. Speed is displayed at the top of the screen.

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5 Now it gets fun and easy.

Once you’ve added a flight mode you’ll want to name it for the function that you want to create. In the case of the Jeti transmitter, you’ll simply use the 3D Control Selector to navigate to the respective flight mode. After you have selected a flight model, you must press the selector to make changes. Then you can change the Label name, the Delay time and select the Switch.

You can choose between uppercase and lower-case letters, as well as using numbers and some special characters for the name. Once you’ve named the flight mode you simply press the F5 key to save it.

Then you must select the switch, button or control lever to associate with the flight mode. To do so, you will use the 3D control selector to navigate to the Switch setting.

There you will press the selector button to select it. The screen will display, “Move the desired control to active position. The event will be

automatically detected.” Once you move the switch, button or lever the transmitter will enter that setting into its memory.

Note that I added a three-position switch to my DC-16’s throttle stick. It is used for at least three flight modes, but with combination switching it can be used for more. (See the photos for this setup in a step-bystep procedure.)

Additionally, you can copy a flight mode if you want. That may help you as a starting point for your next flight; i.e., say you wanted three flight modes for your 3D airplane.

The copy feature will make it quick and easy to make changes to the respective copied flight modes.

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To reflex the entire trailing edge of the wing, I’ve chosen to use a value of 15% for the ASG-29’s ailerons.

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For the Landing mode notice that the ailerons’ value has change from positive to negative 10%.

18

I’m using a symmetrical setting for the ailerons, which in this case are now set to -20% for Landing mode.

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What I’ve done at this screen is change from a global setting to a separate setting for the elevator.

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This is the setup for the Speed mode: the trailing edge of the wing is reflexed, with some down elevator added.

21

Landing mode uses 80% flaps with 20% ailerons, and 10% down elevator to keep the model in trim in that mode.

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RC SPORT FLYER . DECEMBER 2013

6

Next you will set the Flight Model Trim settings. Again, it is very easy. Let me explain that in this menu you can pick between a global trim (G) or a separate (S) setting.

The Global setting will change all the trims for all controls, while the

Separate lets you make the trim changes independently. Also, you can make symmetrical trims or nonsymmetrical trims. Non-symmetrical will let you change trim settings for each individual servo. I selected Separate because I want to trim each of the control surfaces independently of each other. To choose between symmetrical and non-symmetrical you must press the F1 function button. In symmetrically mode, when you change the variable on S1, the S2 and others will change at the same time. In the non-symmetrical mode each S value gets set separately.

7 When the flight modes have been programmed as you want, you can sequence them to function in a set order. For example, in landing mode you may want the landing gear to come down before the flaps and elevator are trimmed. You program the sequences easily too.

Just navigate through the menus to Advanced Properties and then pick

disastrous results. No matter your brand of RC transmitter, learn how to program flight modes. You’ll be happy you did. Its about having fun, not frustration, right?

DISPLAY Once you have your model’s flight modes set you may want to lock the radio, so that your inquisitive friends aren’t able to change your settings. The latest revision of the software (Version 2.02) lets you lock the system with a two digit passphrase—don’t forget it.

Also, you’ll like that the DC/DS16 radio will display the flight mode you are using at the top of the LCD display, just to the right of the Tx power graphic. In my case I can see at an instant if my transmitter is set to: Soaring, Speed, Landing, Launch or Thermal mode.

This is the good stuff! All too often, I see my friends struggling with flying their models in different modes, sometimes even with

To make switching flight modes easier to do when the airplane is in flight I added a three-position switch to the top of the throttle’s control stick. Adding a switch to the DC-16 requires a bit of soldering and finessing wires into place, but it is not hard. You must buy a good soldering iron—one that has small tip so that you can apply the solder without making a mess of the printed circuit board.

The pictures that accompany this article show you how to do it. You simply route the wires down through the control stick. Fasten the switch

DISTRIBUTOR

Sequencer. I’ll explain this function in detail later. If you are scale pilot, the Sequencer function is especially important. For now, know that the DC/DS-16 makes it easy to do.

Esprit Model 1240 Clearmont St NE Unit 12 Palm Bay, FL 32905 Phone: 321-729-4287 espritmodel.com

into the top of the control stick by way of an Allen set screw. Then you solder the wires to their respective PCB connection lands.

The last step in the process is to select Advanced Properties menu, then Sticks and then Switches Setup.

You’ll want to activate switch SK by selecting that it is a three-position type. The three-position switch will let you control three flight modes or more, without the need for you to remove your fingers from the control stick. Its pretty darn cool!

22

You can set a delay time for any mode.

This is good because it lets the airplane change mode over a set period of time.

23

You’ll navigate from letter to letter by way of the 3D Control Selector. ABC let’s you change the letter case.

24

These are the values set for my ASG-29’s Thermal mode. At this point I’ve not added any up elevator control.

25

Lock your transmitter’s programming interface once you’ve establish a program. Use the F4 key to do so.

26

You will use a two-digit passphrase to lock the radio’s programming interface.

Don’t forget it.

27

Whatever you can program into the Jeti DC-16’s memory you can program in the Jeti DS-16 transmitter.

RC-SF.COM

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REVIEW HOW TO

X1-200 TOUCH

CHARGE `EM: LiPO, LiFE, Li-Ion, NiCd, NiMH, Pb

BY Wil Byers

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RC SPORT FLYER . DECEMBER 2013

Hitec’s new X1-200 Touch is compact, lightweight and has an extremely user-friendly programming interface.

The right side has the DC power input, balance port, PC Link, temperature port and positive and negative female charging plugs.

O

ver the 19 years that we’ve been publishing RC Sport Flyer magazine I’ve had the opportunity to test and use many battery chargers. They include almost all the name brands, and even some of the off-brand models that you rarely hear about. Over the past few years chargers have become increasingly better at pumping electrons in their respective battery types. Additionally, their user interfaces have become easier to understand, which equates to ease of use.

Recently Hitec RCD added the X1-200 Touch multi-charger to their line of battery chargers. What I found from the moment I connected my workshop’s DC power supply to the banana plug input leads of the X1-200 Touch is, its user interface is more intuitive and easier to use than any charger I’ve used to date.

Let me underscore this statement by explaining I do not say this lightly.

However, it is the truth! The X1-200 Touch’s user interface is just dead easy to understand.

So it is that from the moment you power this compact, 19-oz charger you will know how to program it for almost every battery type and charge/discharge configuration.

You could almost throw away the

manual; but, don’t do so. You may just need the manual to clarify one or two steps in understanding how to use the X1-200 Touch.

• Temperature sensor port • Servo/ESC port • USB port HOW TO Let me give you a quick lesson in how to use the X1-200 Touch.

Start by connecting the charger’s DC power cord (included in package) into an appropriate 11- to 18-volt DC supply. The unit will power up immediately. Next you’ll select the battery type. You’ll use the X1-200 Touch to charge by using the up or down arrow keys. There is no enter confirmation required. You simply select the type you want. Then you’ll select charge or discharge.

This will be followed by picking the number of cells in the battery pack (up to 15S). Once you’ve selected the number of cells you must confirm by pressing the ENTER key. This will take you back to the main screen.

Next I suggest you pick the capacity of the battery pack. For my test I was charging a 4S 5000-mAh Thunder Power pack, so I selected that value. After you’ve selected the capacity you can press the start button if you wish. The charger will check the battery’s configuration to confirm that you’ve entered all the parameters properly. You’ll then start the charge by pressing the ENTER key.

Programming a basic charge with the X1-200 Touch is just that easy. It will require you to make about five entries to get the charge started.

The X1-200 Touch even includes USB charge, servo/ESC test and brushless motor rpm sensor ports. It has legs on its back.

FEATURES • DC power cord w/ banana plug ends • Alligator clips included • 2-pin T-type charging cable • Balancing board cable • Universal balancing board • Compact / lightweight • Brushless motor sensor port RC-SF.COM

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HITEC X1-200 TOUCH

Then it is just a matter of letting the charger complete the charge.

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This is the HOME screen as the unit comes out of the box. It is a very easyto-understand user interface.

When you press the SETTING button at the HOME screen the unit will get you into the SYSTEM SETTINGS.

In the SYSTEM SETTINGS you can adjust the LCD, THEME and BUZZER values. I picked blue for a user theme.

Here you see what happens when you change theme color. For me the blue theme makes the screens easier to read.

At the HOME screen you’ll pick battery type, charging mode, motor, etc. You can easily get to the other settings too.

Here is the screen you’ll get at the PRESET screen. A click of the EDIT button will have you setting a preset quickly.

Here is PRESET P1 screen. It is easy to set the number of cells, charge rate, and the discharge current and then to CONFIRM.

I’ve set P1 for a 4S LiPo pack that I’ll be charging at the rate of 5 amps and discharging at 2 amps.

RC SPORT FLYER . DECEMBER 2013

SETTINGS You’ll discover that while this charger is easy to use, it also has many setting options.

By pressing the SETTING button at the HOME screen you’ll be taken into the SYSTEM SETTING screen.

There you can pick from System Settings, Safety Protection and Charger Parameters. At a minimum you must check the charger’s Safety Protection settings when charging a pack to make certain the unit will not over charge a pack. Safety Protection provides for a Capacity Cutoff value, Safety Time and Temp Cutoff (Temp Cutoff requires the optional temperature sensor). Again, setting the System Settings is intuitive and easy. You’ll also like that you can change the Theme of the user interface in the System Settings such that it will be easy for you to read in almost any lighting condition. You can set the Key Beep, Buzzer On and LCD light settings too. We picked blue for our theme.

At the HOME screen, when you press the PRESET button, the unit will enter the Preset mode. In this mode you can edit up to five presets for the battery types you’ll be charging the most. This is an excellent shortcut that lets you pick the battery pack type quickly to begin a charge or discharge. I found the preset function very easy to navigate and to program—you simply select the preset number, pick the cell count, then the charge current, next the discharge current and then press the CONFIRM button.

You’ll also appreciate that you can check the Balance Status and Graph a charge. When the unit is performing a charge you can see the mAh, the voltage, the time and temperature. It will also display the current status. At the graph screen you’ll see the graph of the charge as well as the time and the voltage.

Note too, at the HOME screen you can pick from Fast Charge, Balanced Charge, Storage, Servo Test, Motor rpm and use the unit as a Voltmeter. Finally, you can use the

new X1-200 Touch multi-charger to do basic servo functionality testing.

In servo test mode you can change the pulse period as well as the pulse width sent to the servo to determine if a servo is operating properly.

At the CHARGE screen you can monitor the capacity, voltage, charge time, temp, current and unit temp.

BALANCE STATUS lets you see the voltage level for each cell in a battery pack, as well as battery resistance and capacity.

I’ve just started the charge, but the voltage and time are already being displayed at the GRAPH screen.

This shows you what you’ll see once the charge commences. I don’t have a temperature probe attached for temp.

Changing charge parameters is quick and easy with its user-friendly interface.

You’ll just press the up or down arrows.

Here I’ve navigated to the STORAGE mode for a LiPo pack. The only thing left to do is hit the START button.

Here I’ve cranked the unit up to the 10 amps capacity and 10-amp charge rate, with 5-amp discharge rate.

As you can see, the X1-200 Touch will charge up to a 15S NiCd pack. It is rated at 200 watts.

Interface : 3.2-in. LCD touch screen DC input : 11–18 volts DC Charge power : 200 watts Charge range : 0.1 – 12.0 amps Discharge current : 0.1– 5.0 amps Discharge power : 40 watts Current drain 200 mA per cell : for balancing NiCd/NiMH 1 – 15 : battery cells LiPo/LiFe/Li-lon 1 – 6 : cells Pb voltage : 2 – 20 volts Battery Sockets : 4 mm Weight : 19 oz Price : $119.97

DISTRIBUTOR

SPECIFICATIONS

SYNOPSIS Straight away, at a price of only $119.97 (towerhobbies.com) the X1200 Touch DC multi-charger is an excellent buy. If you are looking for a charger that is very intuitive to use and understand, this is the charger I recommend you buy. Hitec RCD has done an absolutely excellent job of engineering this charger’s design such that any programming challenges have been removed. That means safety in terms of charging battery packs. When using the X1200 Touch the frustration of picking the right charge/discharge settings is removed, especially when you use one of the unit’s five presets that you’ll program.

Finally, this charger is sized such you can pack it to the RC airfield easily.

So, bust out the Mastercard or Visa. You’ll be glad you added this to your hangar’s inventory.

Hitec RCD 12115 Paine Street Poway, CA 92064 Phone: 858-748-6948 hitecrcd.com

RC-SF.COM

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REVIEW

CX4 A BLADE TO KEEP YOUR THUMBS HONED

BY RC-SF Staff

W

inter is just around the corner. Last night the temperature in our area dipped to 26 degrees Fahrenheit.

As you know, if you live north of the 40th parallel, that means you either wait for a sunny, no-wind day to fly RC aircraft, or you take your flying indoors. We like to do both. However, from about mid October until the end of February the indoor environment is much more hospitable to short-sleeve piloting than the outdoor environment.

Additionally, by flying indoors it keeps those thumbs and fingers practiced for the next season of flying—hopefully, that season will arrive sooner than later. Anyone up for a trip to Hawaii in January for some wintertime flying?

Barring a beach-side resort, with slope soaring at South Point on the Big Island of Hawaii, what can you do to stay in practice for the upcoming 2014 flying season? If you have even a few bucks you can buy a Blade CX4 and have a ton of fun flying it. Moreover, you will keep your

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thumbs in practice for the season just beyond the upcoming snow storms—honestly, springtime will come soon, so stay in practice.

• Two-piece body w/ LED running lights • Soft-mounted, shock absorbing landing gear

WHAT YOU GET • Blade CX4 • E-flite® LP5DSM transmitter • 800-mAh 3S 11.1-volt 30C LiPo battery • 3-cell 11.1-volt LiPo charger w/ AC adapter • Extra upper and lower rotor blades • 12-volt power supply • Instruction manual • (4) AA batteries

CHARGER FEATURES • Charges 3-cell lithium polymer battery packs • 0.8-amp charge rate • LED charge status indicator • LED cell balance indicator • 12-volt alligator clip input cord

FEATURES • Flight ready • 360-size brushed motors • 3-in-1 ESCs/mixer/heading-hold gyro • 5-channel LP5 DSM/DSM2 transmitter w/ batteries • 2.4-GHz DSM2® receiver • Self-stabilizing flight characteristics • Rubber-coated rotor blades

BIND IT—FLY IT Here is what you’re going to need to do to start flying your new Blade CX4. You’ll start by charging the LiPo battery pack. Doing so is very easy. You’ll simply plug the AC charger adapter into the wall, connect it to the charger module, the red light will then start to flash and you’ll connect the battery pack to the charger’s balance port. The red and green lights will then come on indicating that the 3-cell 11.1-volt LiPo is charging. When the red light glows steady red, and the green light goes out, the LiPo pack has been

Larissa shows you that the Blade CX4 is a medium size coaxial, multirotor RC helicopter. It is even a good pick for the beginner pilot.

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REVIEW

BLADE CX4

Absolutely everything you need to start flying this RC helicopter comes in the kit, including a very good manual.

completely balance charged.

Next you will install the AA batteries in the E-flite® LP5DSM transmitter. At this point, center all the trims on the transmitter. I also suggest you make certain the blade grips are not fastened too tightly to the CX4’s blades. The grips should be tightened just so they are snug against the blade, but that the blades can move freely. Then you will install the LiPo battery in the helicopter. It must be pushed all the way forward in its battery box to get the helicopter’s center of gravity set properly. Next you’ll turn on the transmitter. Make certain the throttle stick is pulled all the way back to its low-throttle position. At this point you will power the helicopter, so plug in the LiPo battery. Be certain to let the helicopter sit steady on the floor until the receiver binds to the transmitter’s 2.4-GHz signal. The blades will make a quick movement to signal you that the binding

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process is complete. Doublecheck the controls by moving the transmitter’s ailerons and elevator control stick to verify that the helicopter receiver is bound to the transmitter and that all the controls are working as they must.

To fly the helicopter push the throttle up slowly until the helicopter starts to lift off. As it breaks free of the ground, advance the throttle to about 60 percent until it is hovering.

Know you must modulate the throttle some if you are indoors and flying the CX4 only say four feet off the ground when it is impacted by its propeller blast hitting objects around it. Also, our CX4 took about three clicks of left rudder trim to maintain heading. It needed zero elevator trim to keep it in a nice hover, without it traveling forward or back. It also needed no rudder trim. To maintain a hover we found that after about three minutes of flight the model needed about 70 percent throttle

to maintain a hover once it was out of ground effect. To be fair to the machine we flew it in the office and our workshop. Outside, we never really flew it much higher than about 10 feet, but it handled well; albeit, we flew it in no-wind conditions.

ON FINAL As a way to provide our beginner pilot readers with an honest evaluation of what it requires to fly this big, coaxial helicopter, we handed it off to a rank beginner.

Mind you our test pilot was a gamer, with some X-Box games experience, but he had never flown an RC airplane or helicopter before. To prep him to fly the CX4, we took him through the process of what it takes to fly an RC coaxial helicopter.

Then we had him push the power up a bit until it was almost ready to take off. That way he got a feel for forward and back, and how to yaw the helicopter. It took him a few tries

You’ll discover that the Blade CX4 is quite easy to fly. Our beginner pilot had it hovering well in less than five minutes.

If you fly it outdoors, we recommend you do so on a calm wind day because it will be buffeted by any gusts.

Notice how the battery is pushed forward in its battery bay. You must do this to get the model’s CG set properly.

You’ll need to apply about 70 percent power to get your CX4 to hover, out of ground effect, which is about four feet high.

The Blade CX4 comes with landing lights installed, which work well and are pretty fun to have in dim light conditions.

The model comes with the E-flite LP5DSM 2.4-GHz transmitter. It is a good match to this coaxial helicopter.

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REVIEW

BLADE CX4

You’ll discover that the CX4 has excellent yaw control, so you only need to apply a little rudder to get it moving in the right direction.

to get a feel for the CX4’s sensitivity to control. However, in less than five minutes he was flying the helicopter without much trouble, even hovering it quite well.

What this says is, the Blade CX4 is quite stable. Its controls are not overly sensitive. It has plenty of power for good hovering. Also, the 5-channel LP5DSM transmitter makes for a good combination package with the CX4.

The other thing we found with the CX4, is it is big enough to take the twitchiness out of its piloting feel.

Our beginner pilot got comfortable

If you let go of the controls when the model is in a hover, it will hold position quite well because of the built-in gyros system.

with it right away. He even flew it to the ceiling, which scared him such that he pulled the power off a bit too much, which then bounced the helicopter on the office carpet.

The CX4 took the hard landing in stride. Even the rotor blades survived without incident. Finally, we found that when it is hovering if you let go of the control sticks the helicopter will pretty much stay in a hover, with its gyros stabilizing it quite well—that is not to say it will fly by itself!

If you are looking for a fun helicopter to fly over the winter, the Blade CX4 RTF is a superb buy at

only $229.99. Replacement parts are inexpensive too; i.e., a set of blades is only $4.49. And, if you don’t like the color of the CX4’s body, Blade sells and green and black one for just $26.99. We would, however, make the recommendation that you purchase at least two extra battery packs, so you can have continuos piloting. Other than buying more batteries, all you need is some time to fly it. It is fun, and you’ll stay in practice for flying a bigger helicopter outside come spring.

Your Blade CX4 will come with extra sets of blades, so you can make a quick repair if an accident happens.

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SPECIFICATIONS

Type : Electric-powered micro coaxial helicopter Swashplate : 135-degree Main rotor : 18.1 in. (460 mm) diameter Main rotor blade : 8.1 in. (205 mm) length Rotor Type : Coaxial Motors : 370-size brushed Electronics : 3-in-1 mixer/ESCs/gyro Receiver : AR 6100e Servos : DS75 Installed Battery : 800-mAh 11.1-volt 3S 30C LiPo Length : 19.7 in. (500-mm) Width : 2.8 in. (70 mm) RTF weight : 14.6 oz (414 g) Flight duration : ≈7–8 minutes Control channels : 4 Size : Micro Price : $229.99

DISTRIBUTOR

Height : 9.8 in. (250 mm) Horizon Hobby 4105 Fieldstone Road Champaign, IL 61822 Phone: 217-352-1913 horizonhobby.com

This nose-in shot shows the canopy and the landing gear configuration. The gear is durable, so it will survive hard landings.

A green colored body for your CX4 is available if you don’t like this color. It is only $26.99 at bladehelis.com.

RC-SF.COM

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96

RC SPORT FLYER . DECEMBER 2013

THEMystery AIRPLANE

WiN

A FREE SPORT FLYER HAT

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Last month’s

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RC-SF.COM

97

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