KIT DICKSON 1
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c o n t e n t s Introduction. page Target Market. page Narrative. page Gareth Pugh AW17. page Gareth Pugh SS21. page Closed on Sundays. page The North Face x Gucci. page 911 Lady Gaga. page Come and Find Me. page Paradise Hills. page SKIMS Campaign. page Ahluwalia Studio. page Moncler Genius. page Exhibition. page Look One. page Look Two. page Reference List. page
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Target Market The film acts as a trailer for the trend forecast and serves as somewhat of a warning for today’s consumers. The target audience for this film are people born between 2011 and 2020, commonly known as Generation Alpha consumers. However, it is important to note that Generation Z (19962010) and Millennials (19811995) and even Generation X (1965-1980) consumers are also applicable audiences for the film, due to the fact that the state of our planet is brought into question due to a lack of sustainability and ethics in the fashion industry. The film ‘portal to earth’ highlights the importance and urgency for a shift in mindset to occur with today’s consumers, most importantly the Gen Alpha and Gen Z cohort, due to the fact that they will likely have most disposable income and that their buying habits are able to be manipulated and changed in line with trends. The Dystopian Glamour trend package sees sustainability and ethics across all areas of the design, production and manufacture of a product creating a circular fashion approach to the industry.
Introduction The creation of ‘portal to earth’ a fashion film based around the Dystopian Glamour 2030 trend package, showcases a visual representation of two potential outcomes for fashion in the year 2030. 6
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This is supported by the use of extension strategies such as recycling, reusability and the investment in clothing that has been sustainably made with the full life cycle of the product in mind, from longevity and strength of fabrics, to disposability and effects on the environment after use.
Narrative Communicating the idea of a warning to the consumers of today to take action with their shopping habits and actively deciding to put sustainability at the forefront of their own values is the only way to combat fast fashion and other sectors of the industry that are not ethical or sustainable and pose as a threat to our planet in the long run. In order to do this the creation of two potential outcomes of the future, showcasing metaphorical caricatures of the main character allow the consumer to connect on a more personal level, in order to trigger the audience to look inward on themselves as consumers and potentially make a change.
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Gareth Pugh AW17
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This collection showcases Pugh’s love for the darker, almost horror genre of styling which he is well known for. The darker tones used in the styling of the runway allow for the storytelling behind the collection to be easily interpreted by the audience and consumer; hence inspiring the choices behind “portal to earth” and how to clearly communicate the story of earth 2030. The choice of lighting used for the runway set up plays on that dark, sinister essence to the collection; on top of these the raw, industrial aspects are also implied by the set of the runway rather than the collection. Taking this methodology forwards to use in the creation of “portal to earth” allowed for clearer communication to the consumer and setting the scene of the apocalyptic, digitalised future version of the world. The illusive dark silhouettes created in this collection create a grand, glamourous presence to the wearer, much like the micro trends discussed in the Dystopian Glamour 2030 trend package. This collection would not look out of place, aesthetically, in “portal to earth” and its perception of the world. Pugh knows his consumer and clearly targets his designs and pieces towards that sector of the market, thus allowing for a loyal customer based to be formed in association with his brand.
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This kind of relationship between consumer and fashion label is something that will be integral to the ‘new mindset’ discussed in the Dystopian Glamour 2030 trend package. 11
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Gareth Pugh SS21
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Currently faced with obstacles such as the COVID19 pandemic, and national lockdown across the globe, the fashion industry is always evolving and changing to adapt to new surroundings. We can see the evolution of Pugh’s work under the regulations of this new world we are living in. This video for Pugh’s S/S21 collection heavily inspired the virtual reality sections of “portal to earth” and pushed the exploration of new ways of communicating ideas to a consumer.
Taking advantage of this for “portal to earth” has allowed me to showcase a clearer representation of earth 2030 in line with the visuals and image of the world created in the Dystopian Glamour trend forecast, in spite of obstacles such as COVID19 restrictions.
This way of communicating allows the creator, in this case Pugh, to clearly communicate his thought processes and vision to the consumer, as due to the virtual aspect of the film; the possibilities for aesthetic concepts are endless.
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Notably, the use of sculpture, architecture and human bodies, is another aspect of Pugh’s film that inspires the ideas of merging real life into this virtual space. This makes the digital concept more realistic and relatable to a modern consumer, allowing the storyline, although subjective, to shine through clearly to deliver the intended message. Utilising this for “portal to earth” will enable concise narrative throughout, thus relating to the consumer on a more personal level allowing them to become emotionally invested in the project, therefore increasing success for the trend package.
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‘Closed on Sundays’
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While it is clear from watching the music video that the underlying tones relate strongly to religion; there is also a futurism aspect, apocalyptic themes run through the start of the video. Stills such as the family walking across the rock face in complete isolation it seems, coupled with the blue toned lighting gives connotations of cold and lonely effects. This is only highlighted by the contrast in lighting, which turns to brighter and more orange toned later in the music video with a sense of community as the group of people are pictured together. This sense of community is also highlighted by the styling of the garments worn; the uniform type effected is created, with hints of individuality shining through, however the colour scheme remains the same. One interpretation of the video could be the idea that this is what is left of the human race after some apocalyptic type event. This sinister undertone works as it is counteracted by the sense of community which is established later in the video. This could be a method of highlighting religion as the main message of the film, connecting with the consumer in a way stating that this sense of religion and community can be found to support us in everyday life. This kind of connection to the consumer, is something that “portal to earth” tried to emulate in regard to the promotion of the message of our environmental decline and the importance of sustainability for the fashion industry going forwards. 20
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THE NORTH FACE X GUCCI Collaborating on a collection such as this allows both brands to maintain relevance and the marrying of the two brands to expand on their client base. In addition to this, the collaboration sits at a different market level allowing for a new consumer to benefit, qualities such as the North Face being known for well made, functional clothing and Gucci’s background in intricate designer wear, allows for a justified price point for the collection. The North Face will profit from association with Gucci’s designer name and Gucci will maintain a fresh image to younger consumers who value brands such as The North Face in their day-to-day lives, creating a point of interest in the collaboration from each group of consumers. The puffer jacket surrounding the building for the collaboration campaign is an impressive, eye catching and new way of creating a billboard effect. The incorporation of the logo, hashtag, colours used and puffer/quilting effect, clearly communicates the merging of the two brands to the consumer. This is an impressive method of campaigning that catches the attention of the consumer, without initially showing any clothing or product. Utilising Adobe Photoshop led to the creation of the futuristic world in “portal to earth” inspired heavily by this The North Face x Gucci collaboration. Due to COVID19 Lockdown restrictions the method of virtually creating a world to represent the future avoided the issues caused by the ban on travelling. 22
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‘911’ lady Gaga Religion is again, something that is strongly alluded to throughout the music video, this could be to connect to Lady Gaga’s own beliefs or another way of targeting a consumer depending on their values. Each scene suggests a narrative that is slightly different and very metaphorically based, meaning that by the end of the music video when the true plot is revealed, the viewer has been allowed to have their own thoughts and subjective take on the film without being guided too much until the end, where the message hits home in a more direct sense. The unique storytelling methods used in this music video inspired the storytelling behind “portal to earth” due to the metaphorical undertones to the video culminating in the ending explaining the prior scenes as the result of a dream like sequence. Leaving the explanation to the end of the video keeps the viewer guessing and intrigued throughout the video, leaving every avenue of the metaphors used throughout each scene to be subjectively guessed about. This methodology works well, the key being that the ending clears up every loose end and answers the questions brought about by the content of the film.
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Using this approach to address the environmental issues brought about by the lack of sustainability in the fashion industry, contrasting with the ‘solution’ being sustainability and circular fashion strategies, allows a juxtaposition of two potential future realities, brought about by the use of digital film, mixed with the present day citations of fashion, representing “portal to earth” as somewhat of a warning to the consumer of the dangers of fast fashion and the importance of sustainability in the fashion industry. 31
‘Come and Find Me’ This collection showcases Pugh’s love Directed by Ruth Hoben, the short film ‘Come and Find Me’ starring Cara Delevingne, is a great example of contemporary videography. The utilisation of colour in the shows Cara adorned in all white, soft materials with lace trims. An heir of innocence surrounds her character, playing on youth and naivety. The turning point of the film introduces darker elements, this shift is made known again by use of colour, the white petals turn to red, darker tones of colours such as black is used to add to this atmosphere. The introduction of the darker version of Cara, is given a juxtaposing garment to really contrast with the previous one; a black latex bodycon dress is worn with black latex gloves, also the makeup has been changed to fit this darker and more dramatic look. Looking at the importance of these aspects of the film really helps when it came to styling the shoot and “portal to earth”. Dividing the personality of the main model, Cara Delevingne, to showcase completely different looks is something that inspired “portal to earth” deeply as it allowed the use of only one model, meaning that the current lockdown regulations could be adhered to, which was definitely one of the larger obstacles for the shoot. Also, this creates an interesting narrative surrounding identity, this idea of the consumer cited in 2021, being transported the virtual representation of earth 2030 and what that might look and be like. It allows the viewer to envision themselves in the same position as the main character of “portal to earth” seeing these two futuristic possibilities of herself.
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This allows for clear communication and relatability to the consumer, allowing for the warning message of “portal to earth” to be clearly heard and understood. Sustainability being at the forefront of every design in order to create a circular fashion mindset within fashion brands is necessary for the survival of our environment and planet and therefore us. 33
Paradise Hills Set in an unspecified era and location, the film Paradise Hills served as a great source of inspiration for “portal to earth” in a multitude of ways, namely the costume design: being a blend of medieval inspired garments with a lighter colour palette of whites and nudes, as well as the uniform seen throughout certain scenes in the film that represent the entrapment in a certain setting or location, contrasting with the steam punk elements to the ‘outside world’ parts of the film. Set design and styling is another aspect of the film that served as a source of inspiration due to the nods towards past eras, such as Victorian embellishments on furniture and fixtures such as lamps, juxtaposing with the futuristic technologies used throughout the film hence, allowing us to infer that the film is set in at least the present day. The idea that we are in some other world or dimension is something that served as an idea for “portal to earth”; as we see the potential outcomes of the results of being both proactive in the incorporation of circular fashion and sustainability, as well as the metaphorical effects of not being on board with this shift in mindset.
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The elements of thriller genre that shine through in the film make for a thought-provoking message. This is something that was emulated in “portal to earth” as the film serves as a warning message to the audience, of the implications of non-ethical and fast fashion consumption. Relating to the target market in this way, using metaphors and emotion to trigger a more active response from consumers, resulting in a mindset change in the fast fashion market. The sense of entrapment in another world, portrayed in the film paradise hills, also inspired the contrast between worlds in “portal to earth”. Showcasing the three different scenes, giving the audience a choice of two possible outcomes, again hits home to the viewer as it is up to them to consider their own actions of consumption today and whether it is wise to
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SKIMS 2020 This SKIMS campaign showcases an interesting photoshoot set, utilising the actual product as decoration and art itself so that the main focus of the shoot is the clothing and its celebrity endorser who is also wearing the shapewear. This is a great commercial example of contemporary photographing of a product. Incorporating the actual product as the background for the shoot adds an interesting quality to the simplicity of the garments. Researching how businesses communicate with consumers on a level that is commercial and artistic, allowed for a more commercial approach to ‘portal to earth’ and how to communicate a clear message to the audience. The use of the shape wear in the background adds a point of interest to the relatively plain and simple silhouette and colouring of the shapewear. The essence of SKIMS is confidence and the beauty of the body. This is highlighted by the simplicity of the concept of the shoot, being the bed and the model. This contrasted with the busy background creates a nice juxtaposition, working as they are tied together by the colour scheme.
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Utilising this use of colour layering allowed ‘portal to earth’ to create the different variations of futuristic earth in a way that enabled the film to convey which scenario is being portrayed. For example, the lighter tones used to showcase the potential future where the appointment of sustainability and ethical values is mandatory within fashion houses. This contrasts with the darker alternative of earth 2030, where we have not taken accountability for the damage being done to our planet at the hands of fast fashion and a lack of sustainability and mindfulness in regard to ethical sourcing, productions and manufacture. 39
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Ahluwalia Studio Sustainability focused designer Priya Ahluwalia utilised underwater photography to capture her recycled garments in a new contemporary way. The metaphors of the swimming pool could allude to the implications of water waste and pollution due to use of water in the production and manufacture of garments. The swimming pool could also represent closed loop production systems, a method used in the manufacture of garments to reduce water waste.
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Ahluwalia utilises deadstock and recycling in the production and manufacture of their garments, this makes it a huge inspiration for sustainability in the fashion industry. the metaphorical presence behind the brand shines through the photography and collections, telling their own story. This was one of the main aims with ‘portal to earth’ as while it is a standalone art piece; the message, although metaphorical, should be clear enough to the audience.
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Italian designer Pierpaolo Piccioli’s collaboration with Moncler serves as yet another example of the brand’s futuristic vision in their designs. The silhouette and unique way of viewing a puffer jacket heavily inspired ‘portal to earth’ and the visuals used to create the futuristic fashions in the digital portions of the film.
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moncler genius The concept of Moncler’s Genius initiative, showcases collaborations with 8 different designers, merging the styles of the designer with the brand Moncler. Each designer was tasked with the same brief; to create a garment with the Moncler puffer jacket’s wearability reputation at the heart of the design. This series of collaboration inspired the aesthetic of the film, due to the idea of climate change and predictions of what our world will look like in ten years.
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The silhouettes created by the floor-length puffers give a futuristic glamorous effect. This paired with the dystopian connotations of climate change and the effects of global warming and pollution on our planet, juxtapose to create the perfect visual concept of earth 2030.
Exhibition There were three aspects of the shoot for ‘portal to earth’ that needed to be considered; The creation of the sustainability and ethical future, the demonic future created as a result of consumers ignoring the planets requirements for sustainability, as well as the portions of the film cited in 2021. Choosing to cite parts of the film in 2021 meant that there was a greater contrast created between the two outcomes of the world and what these might look like as a result of our individual efforts and actions. This technique allows clear communication to the audience that as consumers there is a responsibility to the industry and our planet to take accountability for our own actions. To create a clear juxtaposition between the 2021 and 2030 sections of the film, digital film was utilised to create a virtual world, showcasing the futuristic clips. This allowed for more dramatic effects and surroundings to be built in order to build on this metaphor and create visuals to shock the audience.
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Through experimenting with photoshop and premier pro, backgrounds such as the digital puffer jacket will represent the futuristic ‘portals’ that give the audience a glimpse at 51 earth 2030.
look one. Korean artist, Hyuna features looks in two of her music videos ‘flower shower’ and ‘babe’ that heavily inspired the nature referenced makeup used on the positive sustainable and ethical picture of the future. Warmer tones with softer lines and silhouettes showcased as an ‘ideal’ for the audience. The film ‘portal to earth’ utilises storytelling techniques to guide the consumer into making better decisions in their personal and/or professional lives through the thought-provoking styling and aesthetics relating and appealing to a consumer’s psychology of how they want the world to look in ten years.
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look two. Gareth Pugh’s AW17 collection again inspires the stylistic choices behind this look in the film, due to its darkness and sweeping silhouettes, alongside his use of leathers and PVC fabrics.
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look two. Pat McGrath’s makeup creations for John Galliano’s SS 2010 collection, inspired the makeup look for the dystopian future segments of the film. This dramatic, dark makeup plays on the horror created by a very real issue in today’s society and gives it a face and a voice making it that much more real to the consumer.
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Referencing List Fig 1. Gareth Pugh. SS17 Collection. Vogue. https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/designer/ gareth-pugh Fig 2. Gareth Pugh. SS21 Virtual Collection Film. ShowStudio. https://showstudio.com/collections/ spring-summer-2021/gareth_pugh_ss21/fashion- film?tag=Gareth%20Pugh Fig 3. Closed on Sundays. Kanye West.28/11/2019. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MKM90u7pf3U Fig 4. The North Face x Gucci. 2021. https://www.adsoftheworld.com/media/film/gucci_ the_north_face_the_north_face_x_gucci Fig 5. 911. Lady Gaga. Chromatica. 2020. https://www.vogue.co.uk/arts-and-lifestyle/ gallery/lady-gaga-911-music-video?image=5f65f6 effeceeeaf8bc279e2 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=58hoktsqk_Q Fig 6. Come and Find ME. Ruth Hoben. 2013. https://www.youtube.com/ watch?v=b0pthjDdhOY&t=181s Fig 7. Waddington A. (2019). Paradise Hills. Spain: Nostromo Pictures. Colina Paraiso AIE. Fig 8. SKIMS. One-year anniversary campaign. 2020. Fig 9. Ahluwalia Studio. SS19. https://www.ahluwalia.world/sweet-lassi Fig 10. Moncler Genius Project. 2018. https://www.dezeen.com/2018/02/22/moncler- genius-project-craig-green-simone-rocha-milan- fashion-week/?li_source=base&li_medium=bottom_ block_1 Fig 11. Moncler Genius Project.2019. https://www.dezeen.com/2019/02/22/moncler- genius-collection-pierpaolo-piccioli-milan- fashion- week/?li_source=base&li_ medium=bottom_block_1 Fig 12. Primary Imagery. Kit Dickson. 2021. Fig 13. Look One. Makeup and Styling Inspiration. Kit Dickson. 2021. Fig 14. Look Two. Makeup and Styling Inspiration. Kit Dickson. 2021. https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring- 2010-ready-to-wear/john-galliano
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