december 2012
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W i nter
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513 eats
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W i nter A
TO REMEMBER
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In our hurried lives, winter is the one time of year that nudges us to slow down and enjoy the quieter moments with family and friends. With the holidays upon us, plans of celebrations are in the making. This year, when you find yourself wondering what you can do for someone you love, perhaps you might be inspired to make a handmade gift or, for us foodies, prepare a loving homemade meal. You may even find that inspiration inside our pages. We, again, have been so fortunate to collaborate with our area's talented chefs and bring their creations (and recipes) to you. Summer Genneti shared with us her spiced angel food cake topped with a luscious apricot conserve. Jose Salazar prepared succulent ginger-soy pork for us at Carriage House Farm that would warm you up even on the coldest of winter evenings. Julie Francis shared an amazing kabocha squash and quinoa meal that exudes love and flavor.
However deep you burrow this winter, be sure to make time to add the flavors and scents of the season, make time to celebrate with those you love, and make it a winter to remember. Cheers!
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"In our hurried lives, winter is the one time of year that nudges us to slow down and enjoy the quieter moments with family and friends."
the vibrant colors of autumn have turned to silvery glimpses of bare branches of winter, thoughts of nesting, burrowing, slowing down, and reflecting are in order. This season calls for simmering stews, hearty soups and, of course, lots and lots of baking. There are many ways to show love, and growing up in my Greek home, one 'big fat' way was through food. I knew all was well in my world when I walked through our front door and could smell love coming from our kitchen. That feeling has never left me, except that now, I am the one in the kitchen, hopefully passing those same feelings down to my own family.
CO N T R I B U TO R S In this issue: All stories written by Ilene Ross and all photography by Gina Weathersby, unless noted otherwise.
Gina Weathersby
Ilene Ross
FOUNDER/CREATIVE DIRECTOR
EDITOR IN CHIEF
(aka kiwi street studios) specializes in children’s portraiture, editorial fashion, travel and lifestyle photography. Recently, she gave in to the fact that preparing, styling and photographing food has been calling her name long enough. Gina resides in Oakley with her husband, SB and their three girlies who make her world most wonderful.
Ilene Ross has lived all over the world educating people on cooking and eating well. As a local chef and caterer, Ilene is passionate about feeding people beautifully crafted and delicious food, and has been featured on local television sharing this love with others. Ilene lives in Amberley Village with her husband Marc and her son Carter. Her daughter Cameron lives in Michigan.
Cameron Ross
Lisa Ballard
Eric Hintz
Jenny Garrett
Jose Salazar
Copy Editor
Graphic Illustrator
Media Designer
Graphic Designer
Chef
Cami Ross is currently the Marketing Manager for IT Foresight, and works freelance in television both independently and for such networks as OWN, CBS, WE and Style Network. Cami lives in Michigan with her boyfriend Scott and three surprisingly healthy goldfish and one hedgehog. IT Foresight
Lisa Ballard is a graphic illustrator who creates brand personalities from the third floor of the farmhouse she designed in Morrow, Ohio. Lisa finds her inspiration in her gardens, her two kids, Samantha and Spencer, and her down-toearth husband, Dan. You can see her work at ScottHull.com
Eric Hintz is a design focused and experienced producer, director, and editor passionate about life and culture. Eric currently lives in Oakley, Ohio with his awesome wife, Jillian, and rambunctious puppy, Corbin. hintzmedia
Jenny Garrett is a designer specializing in corporate communications and art direction. She loves a good creative challenge to keep her inspired, growing meyer lemons, and visiting her home state of Pennsylvania.
Chef Jose Salazar is the Executive Chef of The Cincinnatian hotel. Prior to the Cincinnatian, he worked with many of NYC’s best chefs, including the acclaimed Chef/ Restaurateur Thomas Keller at the famed restaurant, Per Se. He credits Chef Keller with having had the most influence over his career to date.
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Anne See Photographer/Writer
Anne See is the chubs half of cheeksandchubs. Together, they run the blog our backyard, where they share what interests them, in photographs. You can see more of their photography on their flickr stream, eyeswideopen
Julie Nieson Gosdin Writer
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Julie Niesen Gosdin is a freelance writer who also runs *wine me, dine me (in Cincinnati*). Her work has been seen in The Cincinnati Enquirer, Metromix, Cincy Chic, Taste Cincinnati and Express Cincinnati. Follow her on Twitter @ winemedineme
In this issue 8 22 37 40 52 60
DE PA RT ME NTS Color Story
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In the kitchen with We'd like you to meet Ethnic {513} la tache douce We love
December cover
Styled and Photographed by Gina Weathersby
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513{eats} is an online publication produced by Gina Weathersby. All images, unless otherwise noted, are the property and ŠGina Weathersby/Kiwi Street Studios. Reproduction in whole or part without written permission is not permitted.
F E AT U R E S
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Baby Love
En Famille
Carriage House Farm
The Bees knees
Farm to table dinner
the holler
A Little Lagniappe 7
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SQUash
HARVEST
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C OLOR S T O R Y
To
many people, the end of summer signals the conclusion of a garden’s bounty. Summer favorites like corn, tomatoes, and lettuces have departed, and a visit to the grocery store means goodbye to local goodness. We here at 513{eats} feel quite the opposite. Autumn brings with it its own bevy of fruits and vegetables, chock full of beauty, rich hues, culinary versatility, and most importantly, nutritional superiority. We’re smitten!
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For this issue’s color story we asked three of our favorite chefs/owners, Daniel Wright of SENATE Restaurant and Abigail Street, Julie Francis of Nectar, and Dave Taylor of La Poste Eatery and Django Western Taco to come up with an original recipe using an orange fruit or vegetable. We were delighted with the outcomes. Each was unique in concept, showed off each chef’s choice to its best, and of course, was distinctively delicious. As usual, our local chefs exceeded our expectations.
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Chef Daniel Wright’s Roasted Butternut Squash Crostini with Ricotta, Caramelized Dates, Bacon, & Shallots.
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he inspiration for Chef Wright’s dish came from a similar crostini dish featured on Abigail Street’s spring menu. “We did a mint and pea version, and people loved it, so we decided to do an autumnal version,” he says. He loved the idea of using dates with the squash, as do we. Roasting the dates added a subtle smokiness.
This super versatile squash can be roasted and tossed with pasta, eaten as is, or pureed and turned into soup or a delicious filling for ravioli.
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Butternut Squash is not only one of our favorites for taste; it’s a winner in the nutrition category as well. It’s low in fat, yet rich in phytonutrients, antioxidants, carotenoids, and dietary fiber, making it exceedingly heart healthy. Add a 1 cup serving to a meal, and you get nearly half the recommended daily dose of antioxidant-rich vitamin C.
Chef Julie Francis’ Pan Fried Kabocha Squash with Black Bean Quinoa & Wheat Berry Salad with Mustard Greens and Miso Vinaigrette
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ur request for an orange vegetable dish from Chef Francis couldn’t have come at a better time. She had already been working on a vegetarian dish for Nectar, and as luck would have it, it featured the beautiful Kabocha, her favorite squash. “Kabocha has a warm, nutty flavor that I love, and the texture is very dense and meaty, something that’s really important in a vegetarian dish,” says Chef Francis. The squash is accompanied by a very hearty salad composed of kale, Oyster
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mushrooms, and sweet potatoes, mixed with black beans, quinoa, and wheat berries, a combination which provides the vegetarian diet with much needed protein. Chili gives a light, yet welcome burst of heat, and the salad is then sprinkled with toasted Kabocha seeds. The mustard greens are blanched and tossed with miso vinaigrette. Chef Francis loves working with all of these bold, warm flavors that she says, “keep you going when it gets cold out.” The Kabocha is a Japanese variety
of winter squash. Also known as Japanese Pumpkin, this squat, green specimen is fairly new on the U.S. scene, but is well worth seeking out. The Kabocha contains an abundance of beta carotene, along with vitamin C, iron, and potassium. It’s also a good source of folic acid, calcium, and trace B vitamins. We like our Kabocha roasted, and as we learned from Chef Francis, the peel is totally edible, and delicious. What a time saver!
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Caramelized Kabocha Squash with Quinoa, Black Bean and Spelt Salad, Mustard Greens, and Walnut Puree 1lb. Kabocha squash, peeled and cut lengthwise into 1/2 inch wedges. 2T vegetable oil 1T sesame oil sea salt and fresh ground pepper to taste
Walnut Puree 2C walnuts 1/2 red onion, thinly sliced 4T olive oil 1T smoked paprika salt and pepper to taste Blanch walnuts in boiling water, drain and repeat. SautĂŠ red onions in 2T olive oil on low until caramelized. In food processor, combine walnuts, 2T olive oil, onions, paprika, salt, and pepper.
SautÊ squash in vegetable and sesame oils on medium heat for 4-5 minutes per side, until golden brown and caramelized, and cooked through. You can add a splash of water to steam if needed. Season with salt and pepper. 1C cooked quinoa 1C cooked black beans 1C cooked spelt 2T golden miso 1/2t Chimayo chili powder 1t fresh ginger, minced 1t garlic, minced 1T roasted sesame seeds 1/3C rice wine vinegar ½lb organic mustard greens 1T Umeboshi plum vinegar Whisk miso, chili, ginger, garlic, sesame seeds and vinegar together. Combine quinoa, black beans, and spelt, toss with miso dressing. Steam mustard greens, season with Umeboshi plum vinegar.
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Chef Dave Taylor’s Pumpkin Beer
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Pumpkin beer is actually far more than the latest darling of craft beer aficionados. It’s been around since the time of our founding fathers, (It’s said that even President Washington had his own favorite recipe) and it wasn’t because the colonists had a hankering for the seasonal flavors we love today. Why then did they resort to brewing beer from gourds? Well, it’s quite simple, really. At that time, barley was in short supply, so brewers would use any fruit or vegetable containing sugar that they could get their hands on, including corn, apples, and even parsnips. In fact, pumpkin brew was considered to be quite the healthful tonic. As if we need an excuse to down more of this refreshing drink!
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hen I phoned Chef Taylor and asked him to participate in this story, I must admit I wasn’t quite prepared for his answer. “Of course,” he said, “Is it ok if I make pumpkin beer?” “Sure, whatever you want,” I answered, without really thinking about it. I just assumed that as a chef, he would want to make actual food. Well, we all know what happens when you assume. In hindsight, I’m so glad for Chef Dave’s creativity, as it shows the true flexibility of one of this land’s native fruits.
Pumpkin Beer
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In The Kitchen With...
JIMMY G
RL
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ooking –and sounding-more like a bad boy rock star backstage at Riverbend than a chef in his kitchen, Jimmy Gibson settles down on an overturned milk crate and lights up a cigarette. REO Speedwagon blares in the background as cooks start to show up to prep the evening’s mise en place. Gibson takes a long drag on the cigarette and proceeds to give us the lowdown on his personal philosophy when it comes to plating food at his namesake restaurant, Jimmy G’s. “It’s like art in a museum. You’ve got to know when to put the paint brush down. When you start to get too busy with shit, you just fuck it up. It’s also like in nature. If you use too much Botox on [supermodel] Elle McPherson, she starts to look like (former Speaker of the United States House of Representatives) Nancy Pelosi.”
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THE TINY LITTLE FISHES, AREN'T TOO KEEN TO SEE THE BEAST, BUT THE CREATURE ISN'T SATISFIED, WITHOUT IT'S FISHY FEAST.
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– excerpt from the poem entitled, The Shark, by Abbie Louise Luck
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The most perfect baby octopi are gently poached to accompany Gibson’s dish of Kombu Cured Prime top cap steak while the Kombu – edible kelp - simmers along with aromatics.
“This is a business, and you can’t ever cook for yourself. If you make great art, but it’s still hanging on the walls of a museum and you never sell any of it, you’re gonna be eating a lot of ramen noodles.” -Chef Jimmy Gibson
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JIMMY G Behind the scenes at Jimmy G’s, Chef Gibson, clad in his daily ‘uniform’ of t-shirt, Levis, and Converse, takes a well-deserved break. A giant white board serves as calendar, note-keeper, and inspiration canvas for the free-thinking chef.
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e weren’t surprised that Gibson chose steak for his dish. After all, he’s been dazzling our town for decades with his grilling prowess at many of our top restaurants, and Jimmy G’s is no exception. The deep, primal smell of wood smoke gently permeates the kitchen air as Chef tends to his fire before laying on the steaks to grill. Bags of lump mesquite are at the ready and Gibson explains to us exactly why to him, there is certain nostalgia to his preferred method of cooking, “I love to imagine Escoffier’s (French chef Georges Auguste Escoffier) time when everything was run on charcoal and wood. The flavor is incomparable.”
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PRIME TOP CAP STEAK
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WITH BABY OCTOPUS PLATED TWO WAYS
The de Cavel Family S I D S Foundation Proceeds from the sale of this calendar benefit the de Cavel Family SIDS Foundation The de Cavel Family SIDS Foundation (formerly 7 DAYS for SIDS) is an organization founded by Jean-Robert & Annette de Cavel, a dedicated group of volunteers, and local restaurateurs. Our mission is to raise funds for research, education, and outreach, as well as for the Tatiana de Cavel Scholarship at the Midwest Culinary Institute at Cincinnati State. Annette and Jean-Robert lost their daughter, Tatiana to SIDS in June 2002. Their wish is that no family should have to experience the same devastating loss. Although no one can eliminate the devastation experienced with the loss of a child to SIDS, we hope the following link will provide comfort and support: Sudden Infant Death Network of Ohio www.sidsohio.org/
PHOTO
Jean-Robert and Leticia de Cavel ŠGina Weathersby 2012 Have
the most delicious year ever with your own copy of:
A Year of Chefs _
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→
click here to purchase
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FARM table
Salazar Geddes Bodenstein Santos
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WE’D LIKE YOU TO MEET
marilyn harris
Q: How did you get your start?
Q: How did you get started in Cincinnati?
Marilyn: I grew up in a Southern household with a mother who was an avid baker and a good cook. In college, I majored in nutrition, and later got married instead of getting a Master’s degree. When we moved to New Orleans, I got a job doing public relations for the food world and testing recipes. In nutrition, you learn about chemistry and not flavors. In New Orleans, I learned about sophisticated food and how to appreciate flavors. I went to Le Cordon Bleu in London, and have taken classes in France, Italy and all over the United States. including a garde manger class in D.C. That’s all I’ve ever done: cook.
Marilyn: I ran a cooking school in the 1980s, at Pogues Department Store’s Fourth Street Market, which was before its time in the U.S. and very forward for the Midwest. It was run by a very forward president, who was coincidentally from New Orleans. I was the Special Events Coordinator, but my main job was to run a cooking school. I ran it for 8 years. It allowed me to get to know everyone in Cincinnati plus the national food scene. This was when cooking teachers, like Jacques Pepin, traveled. I became friends with [the late NY Daily News food columnist] Burt Greene. It allowed me to plant my feet firmly in the food world.
interview by Julie Nieson Gosdin
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For the last 30 years, Marilyn Harris has been the doyenne of Cincinnati food. From nutrition courses to Le Cordon Bleu in London, to Pogue’s Department store, and finally to her radio home, she’s seen Cincinnati go from a German-influenced town to a city with a vibrant, nationallyrecognized food scene.
Q: When did you transition to “Cooking with Marilyn” on the radio (55WKRC, iheartradio.com)?
also impossible to get ingredients. If it was summer, you could get fresh peppers, but not the same selection of today. Our palates have gotten Marilyn: Before the Fourth more sophisticated and daring. New Street Market closed, WCKY had Orleans has always been several steps a cooking show whose host was ahead, which I had in my blood when leaving. One of the principals at I came here. I took for granted that WCKY took lunchtime cooking people would like this stuff, but they classes and suggested I be the didn't know they liked this stuff until host. I’ve been doing it ever since. I’ve they tasted it. Some people had the been on the radio for 26 years, despite idea that New Orleans food was spicy takeovers and buyouts. No one has or blackened. I taught a class that never told me not to! On Saturdays compared Cajun and creole. Creole on 55WKRC, it’s all about “how-to” is sophisticated and influenced by the radio: there’s a car show, a garden French. Cajun food is the food of the show and me. I get a lot of truck Canadians who settled in the bayous, drivers who listen to my show. I had and is spicier, to make less expensive one who made sure he was driving ingredients taste better. Paul through the area so he could stop by Prudhomme made everyone think a live appearance to get his cookbook that Cajun food had to burn your signed. I get a lot of single men who mouth. One man, after taking my want to cook for themselves. They’re Creole cooking class said, "Well that concerned about their health and wasn't hot! This is not Louisiana food appearance. They ask the best because it's not hot" and left in a huff. questions. I also do live events at Kroger when they’re having special events. I just did the grand opening of Q: What do you think has changed the Mason Kroger. I gave away over Cincinnati tastes? 300 samples of a chicken dish. It was Marilyn: Technology and very popular! transportation have changed Q: How have food tastes changed in Cincinnati tastes. We don't have Cincinnati since you started? the regional divisions like we used to, which is kind of sad. But Marilyn: sophisticated flavors have spread all They have definitely changed! When over to everyone. We also have more I started at Fourth Street Market, chefs who go to culinary school, and I taught Santa Fe cuisine. Santa travel and are raising the standards. Fe flavors are some of my favorite; I fuss at people sometimes because they’re quirky, sophisticated southwest they say, “I went to Chicago and flavors (unlike Tex Mex). During had the best food.” Well, they this class, I pulled out a jalapeño were in Chicago! You won't find a pepper and people gasped. "Are you better restaurant in New York than going to make us eat that?" It was
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Orchids. If you had this in NY or Chicago, you'd say "Oh, I wish we had this back home." People forget. That’s why I have my "Dining Out Tips" segment. I tell my listeners to call in if they’ve gone to a local restaurant that is different or eclectic, and to share it with us because, 1. We might not find it on our own, and, 2. We might be near, but otherwise wouldn't drop by. It helps people get enthusiastic about what we have here. Q: Where do you eat when you’re not cooking for yourself? Marilyn: Embers and Trio. Greg Pancero has created quintessential, local neighborhood restaurants. They do what is so important in the restaurant world: consistency. Jose Salazar at The Palace. He’s extremely talented. Todd Kelly [at Orchids] is amazing. Jean-Robert de Cavel is an integral part of Cincinnati culinary community. He set the standard for French food at the Maisonette and has continued it at Table. He’s given so much of his time to charity and has influenced young chefs. Cincinnati food would not be what it is without his presence here. Sean Kagy, who now works for Jeff Ruby has an innate understanding of flavor. He always comes up with something delicious. With flavor, you either get it or you don't. There is so much good ethnic food now. There was only one Indian restaurant when I came and now there is wonderful Indian, and great Asian cuisine. There is also great Italian food. Christian Pietoso [Via
Vite, Nicola’s] has been cooking for a while. Jeremy Luers at Enoteca Emilia is giving us wonderful Italian food and has brought Italian to a different level.
Q: You’re moving to Over-the-Rhine soon. Will you be taking advantage of Findlay Market?
There isn’t a better pastry chef in New York than Summer Genetti is*. Megan Ketover is so creative. I love what Take the Cake is doing in Northside. Slow Food and Local Food is also so important. Shoshonna Hafner at Honey popularized this. Chefs care about local farmers and created a market for local foods. They raised our expectations by feeding us real, local, tasty food. We are coming into a time when it isn't trendy, that's just what it is. It's what's expected. Our expectation level is raised.
Marilyn: Yes! I already purchased a pushcart to take my groceries back to my condo. Findlay Market is something we have to cherish and allow to take on a new personality. It’s really keeping up with what's happening in the food world. It could have easily died. I also go to Avril Bleh [on Court street]. I went in once and asked where they got their ham, and they showed me a back room where their hams were curing. German heritage still influences our food and people still value things like homemade sausage and other German specialities.
Marilyn: When I cook, I cook real food. I am into outdoor cooking. Yesterday, I spatchcocked and roasted a chicken. This summer, I’ve smoked pork roasts to make chili with fresh tomatoes. Plain southern cooking-- good old chicken, butter beans, sliced tomatoes, with an interesting rice or potato dish. Speaking of, you can make some interesting rice by putting chicken stock in the blender with spinach, fresh herbs, garlic and shallots. Use it as the liquid to cook the rice. It’s good for you and looks pretty. In the fall, I’ll use the pressure cooker and make stews, soups, ragouts. I make gazpacho in the summer. I always have food in the freezer for days I don't want to cook or go out. When it's just two of you, you have to be creative with leftovers. I make homemade pasta and corn tortillas. They’re good bases for recycling leftovers.
Marilyn Harris can be heard from 1-4 PM on 55WKRC and on iheartradio.com. Her radio program is also available as a podcast on iTunes. Her books, Cooking with Marilyn and Live From Marilyn’s Kitchen are both available at Cook’s Wares at Harper’s Point and Joseph Beth Booksellers.
*Since this interview, Pastry Chef Summer Genetti has moved to Cleveland Ohio.
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Q: What do you cook when you’re cooking for yourself or your family?
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ethnic{513}
Eid-Ul-Fitr, When I wrote my first ethnic 513 feature, it was about the food that was served at my family’s Chinese New Year celebration. It was an obvious choice to share what I knew well enough, but also an opportunity to learn more about what I didn’t. I didn’t know that what I grew up calling “lumpia” in Manila, was called “popiah” in China and Singapore!
This time around,
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We used the opportunity to learn about how a local group of friends celebrate Eid, and the food that graced their tables.
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Eid-Ul-Fitr,
abbreviated as Eid, is a Muslim holiday, and marks the end of Ramadan, the holy month of dawn-to-sunset fasting. Eid is the arabic word for festivity and Fitr stands for breaking the fast. In fact, Eid is one day that Muslims are not permitted to fast, and as you can imagine, this day then becomes a celebration that involves food–a lot of food.
The tables had been set with cold mezzas (small plates) awaiting the hungry guests as they arrived. The plates were filled with bata harra (potatoes, red peppers, coriander, chili and garlic, fried together in olive oil), hommus, baba ghannouge (roasted eggplant pureed and served with pomegranate seeds when in season), fattoush (lettuce, tomatoes, cucumbers, onions, mint, radishes, and parsley in a pomegranate-sumac-garlic dressing, tossed with toasted pita), falafel (chick pea fritters), grape leaves and m’sakaa (eggplant and chickpeas baked in tomato sauce, onions and garlic).
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We were connected with a group of Middle Eastern friends (a mix of Egyptians, Turks, Syrians, Lebanese, Palestinians, Jordanians and Iraqis) who celebrate this holiday together annually. With over 90 people on the guest list, and growing, they decided this year to celebrate Eid at a restaurant which had just recently opened in Mason, Phoenician Taverna. After morning Eid prayers (known as salaat), everyone arrived at the restaurant, dressed in their best clothes. Hugs and double-cheek kisses were exchanged, along with greetings of “Eid Mubarak”, between adults and children (“Eid Mubarak” roughly translates to “May you enjoy a blessed festival”).
In the meantime, the kitchen staff was in full assembly line mode, preparing the mains: manakish bel zaatar (flatbread with thyme, sumac, sesame seeds, tomatoes, onions, olive oil, and served with yogurt cucumber sauce), mixed shawarma (lamb and beef or chicken), and french fries with garlic whip (garlic, lemon and olive oil) and housemade pita. The freshly made pitas were served as soon as they came out of the pita oven, steaming and all puffed up.
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Shawarma here was different from what we’ve been so used to seeing – instead of a blend of different meats on a spit, they served just 2 kinds: chicken or lamb and beef. There was one lemon at the top of the stack of chicken, and one tomato at the top of the lamb and beef, the added flavor and savory juices of the meats dripped to the pans at the bottom. They even used an electric meat shaver to slice off pieces of meat to serve.
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dates. These were homemade by a Syrian family and had been stuffed with roughly chopped pistachios. If you were curious to try them (as well as other Middle Eastern sweets), we found that the Victory Bakery in West Chester makes them.
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Dessert was housemade baklawa with pistachios, and a traditional Lebanese sweet served during the holidays, called maamoul. Maamoul is a semolina shortbread with orange blossom water and rose water, and have fillings that vary: walnuts, pistachios or
Friends continued to arrive through lunch and dessert, & the greetings repeated, as they passed each table. Almost everyone there had known each other for years, and have seen each others’ children grow into adulthood. Eid was a day to get together, catch up and celebrate around food. Some things are just universal.
special thanks Phoenician Taverna 7944 S Mason Montgomery Rd Mason, OH 45040
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la tache douce
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Being self-taught, Pastry Chef Summer Genetti had never learned how to bake an Angel Food cake. And, truth be told, that particular confection intimidated her quite a bit.
She had actually managed to avoid making one in all of the restaurants where she was employed, until one day, while she was the Executive Pastry Chef at The Cincinnatian Hotel & Palace Restaurant; fate reared its ugly head in the form of television news. She heard that it was Carl Lindner’s birthday. As Chairman of American Financial Group, (parent company of The Cincinnatian) he was essentially her boss. She immediately called her marketing director to ask if there was to be any special dessert preparation for the day. The response she received was sobering. Yes, Mr. Lindner would be in for lunch that day. And yes, Mr. Lindner’s favorite dessert
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was Lemon Angel Food cake with vanilla ice cream. “At first I thought about going to buy one, and I thought, I probably can’t get away with that,” she says, half joking. Thankfully, Assistant Pastry Chef Kristen Seiter came to her rescue with the perfect recipe and tutorial. The birthday lunch went off with aplomb, and now Summer is a huge fan of Angel Food cakes in general. In fact, she feels that it’s often not fully appreciated when it comes to desserts. “It’s a great use of left-over egg whites, it’s light, and it’s very versatile,” she says, noting that in this particular recipe, just a variation in the glaze changes the whole flavor.
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“At first I thought about going to buy one, and I thought, I probably can’t get away with that.”
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spiced Angel Food cake 110g 1tsp 150g 4g 300g 1tsp
Cake Flour (sifted) Pumpkin Pie Spice Egg Whites (room temperature) Cream of Tartar Granulated Sugar Vanilla Extract
Method: In the bowl of a stand mixer on medium high speed, begin whisking your egg whites. Once the egg whites become uniformly foamy (no liquid visible) add the cream of tartar. When the egg whites begin to trace the lines from the whisk, slowly add the granulated sugar one tablespoon at a time, waiting approximately 1-2 minutes before each addition. Total whipping time should be about ten minutes yielding firm and glossy whites. When achieved, whisk in the vanilla extract. In a separate bowl, whisk together the sifted cake flour and pumpkin pie spice. Gently fold the flour mixture into the egg whites in three additions with a rubber spatula. Pour batter into a tube pan and smooth batter so it is spread evenly throughout the pan. Next, drag a butter knife through the cake batter to remove any air pockets. Place the pan on the middle rack of the oven and bake at 350 degrees for 35 minutes before testing with a wooden skewer to check for doneness. (When inserted halfway between the inner and outer wall, the skewer should come out dry). Cool upside down on a cooling rack for at least one hour before removing. To release the cake from the pan, run a butter knife around the cake, between the cake and the pan, and also the inner circle as well. Carefully lift the bottom out of the outside ring. Invert, and run the butter knife between the base of the pan and the cake. Return cake to the cooling rack that is over a cookie sheet to prepare for glazing.
coffee glaze 7oz 3+1/2tsp 1/2tsp
Powdered Sugar Brewed Coffee Vanilla Extract
Method: In a small bowl, whisk together the above ingredients with fork. When smooth, pour evenly over the top of the cake, allowing the glaze to cascade down the sides. Allow 30 minutes for drying time before moving.
apricot conserves Fresh Apricots (cut in quarters, pits reserved) Vanilla Bean (split and scraped) Ground Clove Granulated Sugar Apple Juice Lemon (juiced) Unsalted Butter
Method: Place all of the apricot pits on a wooden cutting board. Cover them with a towel and crack them open with a mallet. Carefully extract the kernel from inside the pit, making sure not to get any of the pit. Add the apricots, kernels, vanilla bean and clove to a large pot. Place over medium-low heat, and bring to a simmer, stirring occasionally. Simmer for 10 minutes. Add the sugar, apple juice and lemon juice. Continue to simmer for another 30 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to remove any scum that rises to the surface. Add the butter, and simmer for 5 minutes longer. Remove the kernels from the conserves. Transfer to sterilized jars, cap and let cool. Store in the refrigerator for up to 1 month. Alternatively, water process the jars, then store in a cool, dry place for up to 6 months.
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3 pounds 1 1/4tsp 2 pounds 2c 1 2TBSP
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A Taste of Belgium
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Jean-Francois Flechet J Jean-Francois Flechet left his career in corporate America to begin hawking delectable Liege-style Belgian waffles at Findlay Market. Since then, Cincinnatians have been hooked on Flechet’s hometown treat. Sure, we’ve burnt many a finger and tongue on those waffles, but it’s only because we can’t wait to devour them. With their crisp, light outside-courtesy of the traditional pearl sugar-and dense, rich inside, these babies quickly became a must have treat to bolster one for a tough day of market shopping. Of course it didn’t hurt that the guy pandering the delicious treats was easy on
the eyes and had a great accent. Quite rapidly the modest outside stand grew to become an inside shop with an attached bakery counter offering additional items such as crepes, quiches, and other baked goods. From there, it was a hop, skip, and a jump to locations at other markets, shops in Columbus, and the full service restaurant on Vine Street in Over-the-Rhine, which is one of the most in-demand weekend brunch spots in town. When asked what his next move is, Flechet grins and says, “More waffle irons.” But we happen to know for a fact, that in the spring he will be opening a new location in northern Kentucky at the soon to be built Friendly Market. We can’t wait.
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It’s hard to debate the fact that as of late, there seems to be somewhat of a baby boom within Cincinnati’s restaurant community. In fact, our food folk have been so procreative, it’s actually been suggested that there might be something in our water. Luckily for us, while these talented people have been busy growing their families, they’ve also been hard at work adding to their professional empires. Each chef and or restaurateur featured here has, or is in the process of, opening his second restaurant. Thank goodness for supportive wives and hard-working staff.
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Daniel, Oliver & Knox Wright 2 Of SENATE Restaurant and Abigail Street 2
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*Daniel wears “The Blade” by Artfully Disheveled. Oliver and Knox wear the best of Abigail Street napkin-wear.
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It’s been a busy few years in the Wright household. Lines are out the door at super popular SENATE. Rave reviews continue to pour in for recently opened Abigail Street. Winning the title of Food & Wine Magazine’s 2012 Best Chef for the Great Lakes Division. Is it possible for things to be any more exhilarating for Chef Daniel Wright and his wife Lana? Well, yes. And since the Wrights aren’t in the habit of doing anything small, it’s only fitting that this past June Lana gave birth to twin boys, Knox and Oliver. For those of you who are looking forward to seeing the younger Wrights bussing your tables in the future-the restaurants have always been a family affair with Lana running the books, as well as front of the house-says Lana, “I wouldn’t want to push it on them, I want them to do what makes them happy.”
Artfully Disheveled “He’s the well-dressed rebel. He’s the tailored misfit” –Artfully Disheveled In our eyes, The Artfully Disheveled refrain perfectly describes the five distinct gentlemen included in this story. The ties and pocket squares are tasteful, elegant, cool, yet never contrived. Which is exactly why they work so brilliantly on all, even baby Margeaux Le. Find retailers at www.artfullydisheveled.com
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David & Margeaux Le
2 Of Pho Lang Thang and Quan Hapa (opening soon) 2
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Ever since David Le, along with partners Duy Nguyen and Bao Nguyen opened Pho Lang Thang at Findlay Market, there isn’t anything we crave on a cold winters day as much as a hot steaming bowl of the Vietnamese noodle soup known as Pho. Next up for the
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partners, (including Chef Matt Cranert) is an Asian Gastropub named Quan Hapa, (pronounced Wan Ha Pa) located on Vine Street in Over the Rhine. The group plans to have the restaurant open before the end of the year. I would, however, venture to guess
that Le’s most treasured partnership is the one with his wife Megan Underhill. This past July, Underhill gave birth to the couple’s first child, daughter Margeaux. *Margeaux wears “The Thread” Square by Artfully Disheveled.
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Bryant, Sophie & Madeline Phillips Dave & Olivia Taylor 2 Of La Poste Eatery and Django Western Taco 2
both La Poste Eatery in Clifton, and the recently opened Django Western Taco in Northside-and their offspring. What could possibly go wrong? Actually, nothing. What we got was real life. Delightfully real. And we wouldn’t trade that for anything. *Bryant wears “The Sharps” and *Dave wears “The Spark” both by Artfully Disheveled
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It was the great comedian W.C. Fields who is quoted with the line, “Never work with children or animals.” And, well, as you can see in our shoot with Restaurateur/Sommelier Bryant Phillips, and Chef Dave Taylor, truer words were never spoken. We had originally envisioned a charming scene; a casual breakfast meeting between partners, accompanied by their offspring-Phillips, along with his wife, Kelly Lough, Jens Rosenkrantz, and Taylor own
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Gary & Eddie Sims
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One year old Eddie Sims never seems to stop smiling. Even as we stood in the frosty October air, cajoling the barefoot toddler into the perfect shot, his grin never subsided. Neither did that of his father, Gary, as he proudly showed us around the enormous Northside space of his soon to be open Mexican restaurant, Barrio Tequieria. Used to the fairly miniscule confines of his first endeavor, food truck Taco Azul, Barrio must feel like a massive compound, complete with a spacious outdoor patio. Gary and his wife Tracy are looking forward to featuring local bands on the patio, and plan on being open by New Year’s Eve. *Gary and Eddie wear “The Quiver” by Artfully Disheveled
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en famille With its evening, weekend, and holiday hours, the food business is notoriously detrimental to family life. It can be incredibly stressful for spouses working opposite sides of the clock to successfully coordinate the subtleties involved with keeping their
own relationship strong, let alone balance the workings of their children’s busy lives. Both parents in the industry could seem like a recipe for disaster, but corporate chefs Sean and Jennifer Kagy have got it all under control.
With both parents as chefs, it’s no surprise that the Kagy children love to eat and cook good food, so when Sean and Jenn aren’t cooking for a living, the family spends a lot of time together in their home kitchen; with brunch being one of their favorite meals to prepare together. We were delighted to join them for one very delicious Sunday. Everyone was involved in the preparation of the meal; Jenn and Alexandra whipped up a delicious frittata while Christian prepared the bacon as well as the Blue Oven Bakery English muffins with homemade lemon curd. Grilled peaches, courtesy of Sean and Alexandra, were slathered with Greek yogurt and then topped with Jenn’s homemade granola. Even the weather cooperated, providing the perfect Indian summer day for al fresco dining.
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Always keeping their strenuous schedule in mind, Sean and Jenn spend as much quality time as possible with their two children, Christian, 13, and Alexandra, 10.
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brunch fritatta Heat the oven to 350 degrees F. Melt 3 tablespoons of butter in a 10-inch ovenproof omelet pan over medium-low heat. Add the potatoes and fry them until cooked through, turning often, about 10 to 15 minutes. Melt the remaining 5 tablespoons of butter in a small dish in the microwave. Meanwhile, whisk the eggs, then stir in the ricotta, Gruyere, melted butter, salt, pepper, and basil. Sprinkle on the flour and baking powder and stir into the egg mixture. Pour the egg mixture over the potatoes and place the pan in the center of the oven. Bake the frittata until it is browned and puffed, 50 minutes to 1 hour. It will be rounded and firm in the middle and a knife inserted in the frittata should come out clean. Serve hot.
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• 8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, divided • 2 cups peeled and 1/2-inch diced boiling potatoes (4 potatoes) or frozen hash brown potatoes cooked according to package • 8 extra-large eggs • 15 ounces ricotta cheese • 3/4 pound Gruyere or Swiss cheese, grated • 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt • 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper • 3/4 cup chopped fresh basil leaves or 2 tablespoons pesto • 1/3 cup flour • 3/4 teaspoon baking powder
grilled peaches After pitting and halving the peaches, brush with olive oil, sprinkle with fresh thyme and kosher salt. Grill face down on a hot grill for about 10 minutes. Serve as is or with a touch of creme fraiche or honey.
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Richar d Stewart
x car r iage house farm Six generations of Richard Stewart’s family have been farming the land nestled in the Miami River valley outside the village of North Bend, Ohio now known as Carriage House Farm. What was once 90 acres has grown to over 300 acres, supplying our area’s finest restaurants and shops with specialty vegetables, honey, and non-GMO grains. This past summer, Carriage House was recognized as an American Treasures Award Winner by Made: In America. The award is presented annually at the American Treasures Culinary Experience, “to individuals and small producers in recognition of a singular and significant contribution to our Nation that both preserves and fosters a unique All American craft and tradition.” Stewart was nominated by Chef Steven Geddes of Cincinnati’s Local 127, and a member of the American Treasures National Advisory Committee. Geddes is one of the many local chefs with whom Stewart enjoys a close relationship. It’s this interaction he enjoys most as it allows him to, “push the boundaries of what we grow,” he says, explaining why he’s moved the farm from commodity corn and soy to more unique crops. “There’s always a quest to do what other people aren’t doing.”
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“There’s always a quest to do what other people aren’t doing.”
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“I am a farmer because I feel that growing food and educating people how to cook and eat well is the best possible contribution I can make to my community, my friends and my family.” –Kate Cook
Kate Cook is Carriage House Farm’s Garden Manager. Her primary responsibility is to develop sustainable, scalable planting methods in her zero-spray market garden at the farm. She was recently honored at “Farm to Fork, A Celebration of Women Farmers”, hosted by Edible Ohio Valley and The Grailville Retreat & Program Center, as one of twelve notable regional female farmers. Her home garden has been featured in several books, (The Yarn Garden and I Garden: Urban Style) and she is now a regular guest on “In the Garden with Ron Wilson” (the only coast-tocoast call-in gardening radio show).
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the The Bees knees Knees
“A nd t hy Lord taught t he b e e to bu i ld it s cel l s in h i l l s , on t re e s , a nd in men’s ha bitat ion s ." From t he Qu ra n, Su rat a n- Na h l : 6 8- 69
While guests sleep peacefully, cosseted in the utmost luxury of downtown Cincinnati’s Hilton Netherland Plaza, hundreds of thousands of workers are busy toiling away to ensure that their lodger’s breakfast will be extra sweet. But these tireless laborers aren’t of the human species. Tucked peacefully away on the 5th floor roof of the Hilton, are 4 whimsically painted bee hives. Executive Chef Todd Kelly came up with the idea of keeping the bees as a way for his chefs to buy in to his goal of utilizing more sustainable and locally sourced products in the kitchen. At the request of Chef Kelly, experienced beekeeper Richard Stewart of Carriage House Farm installed two hives in May of 2011; placing a purchased colony from California into one, and a rogue swarm Stewart had caught in Fairfield into the other. As luck would have it, the purchased colony arrived without a queen, (tantamount to death in the bee world) and fled, or possibly even combined with wild bunch. A second swarm was successfully captured, placed in the hive, and all of the bees began to successfully set up housekeeping.
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“We're all busy little bees, full of stings, making honey day and night, aren't we honey?" - BETTE DAVIS Beekeeping isn’t difficult, but the hives do require routine seasonal maintenance for proper health and optimal honey production., Young bees are fed a sugar and water solution until they can care for themselves, and the bees
always have water available to them; when it rains, they won’t leave to get it on their own. Hives must be checked for cleanliness, and full combs are replaced with fresh wax. Younger hives are checked more frequently to make sure that colonies are organizing properly. Of course, all of this is done after donning protective gear and administering a calming puff of smoke.
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Training in the care and maintenance of the bees for Kelly came in the form of teaching and guidance from Stewart, as well as a one day course given by The Ohio State University called Southwest Ohio Beekeeper School. The class is offered in Cincinnati at the Miami Valley Extension Education and Research Area in Warren County.
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The Hilton hives soon grew in number to four, although at present, only three are inhabited. Honey is harvested three times a year, yielding between 20 and 30 gallons. The crop is utilized on the savory side of the kitchen by Chef Kelly as well as on the sweet side by Head Pastry Chef Megan Ketover, who also helps care for the bees.
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Harvested honey must be extracted from the combs immediately otherwise it will crystalize. With hot knives, Chefs Kelly and Ketover deftly slice off the wax, releasing the thick, golden liquid. The combs are then placed in a spinner which uses centrifugal force to fully remove the honey.
Pumpkin basque cake, cream cheese gelato, spiced cider reduction, toasted pepita, & cardamom honey roasted figs
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honey lace tuile
Honey-infused bourbon one bottle roses bourbon two 3" squares of carriage house honey comb 2 oranges, zested into long strips 5 thyme sprigs
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combine and allow to mature for a week or more
Duet of quail with spiced honey gastrique, olive oil powder, purple ninja radishes, honey comb, spiced peanuts, and mustard greens
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Beet salad with chevre croquette, walnut vinaigrette, crisp country ham and, bee pollen
Farm to Table Harvest Dinner
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hen planning his first farm-to-table event in conjunction with Carriage House Farm, Chef Ryan Santos of the popular Arts and Lettuce dinner club left no detail overlooked. New table wear had been purchased; in fact, even the massive communal table itself was constructed just for the evening by Carriage House Farm owner Richard Stewart, and the menu was meticulously planned after consulting with Stewart, Carriage House forager Abby Artemisia, Napoleon Ridge Farm owner Tricia Houston, and a local hunter. Everything was to be prepared outside in cast iron cook ware over an open fire, something Chef Santos had been anticipating for quite some time; he had been sourcing the coveted well-aged pans from friends for weeks in advance. “As a chef I'm always looking for a new challenge and a new skill to learn, and we [the Please staff] wanted the challenge of not having electric,” he says. The choice of the farm with its rural setting was a natural for Santos and his crew. “We find a lot of inspiration from nature, and it seemed like a logical connection to make for us,” he says. “Also, I wanted to showcase the awesome produce and meats from Carriage House and Napoleon Ridge (the northern Kentucky farm supplied broccoli, cauliflower, pecans, sorrel, as well as ‘man power’ for the dinner, in the form of Houston) and let the surroundings and the fire really brings out their great flavors.”
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Crisp crackers made from Carriage House Farm wheat berries are topped with fresh radish and Napoleon Ridge pecans for the first course.
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Baby Vegetables
Juniper Scented Venison Tartare
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With the exception of the Battle Point Oysters from Virginia, almost every ingredient came directly from Carriage House or Napoleon Ridge, including foraged non-food items such as moss for the dÊcor, juniper branches to scent the venison, and wet leaves to steam the oysters. The only detail Chef Santos couldn’t control was Mother Nature, and far be it from her to be cooperative. There was rain, sleet, hail, and frigid temperatures, but none of those stopped guests from pulling up hay bales to enjoy the rustic yet artfully presented cuisine. Nor did the elements dampen Santos’ spirits when it came to the preparations. Thankfully, Stewart was able to provide a tent before everything was completely soaked, and the dinner went off without a hitch.
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Red Wattle Pork, Dried Cabbage, Mussels & Garlic
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Dinner guests come to the communal table as strangers to share food and drink, and leave as friends.
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“Stay with your tour group!” Warned Dr. Chuck Talbot, only half joking. Following a hearty, round the campfire breakfast of eggs, homemade biscuits, and of course bacon and sausage, Gina and I-along with a group of chefs, butchers, and food purveyors from New York-were following Talbot on a walking tour of Black Oak Holler, Talbot’s 267 acre West Virginia pig farm where he, wife Nadine Perry, and business partner Nicholas Heckett breed and raise a unique cross-breed of feral and domestic hog. Their goal, by combining the breed characteristics of the Ossabaw and Eurasian Wild Boar, with those of the Farmers' Hybrid/Large Black, is to be able to maximize the flavor characteristics required for their own “Appalachian Charcuterie” rivaling those found in Italy and Spain. In order to accomplish this, the pigs, once weaned, are first raised on pasture and field crops, and then turned loose and allowed to roam the forest freely to forage on acorns and other woodland fruits-otherwise known as mast-which greatly increases the fat content and flavor of the meat. So it was this, “roaming freely through the woods” aspect which could lead to some areas of potential danger, as Dr.Talbot had cautioned all who were attending this elite weekend adventure of hiking, camping, butchering, and eating, in a most delicately worded Facebook message prior to arrival. The message alluded to such dangers as actual wild boars that were looking to breed with Talbot’s pigs, and overprotective sows with litters, aka “Land Sharks”, the second most dangerous animal on a farm. The first-in case you were wondering- is the bull. Talbot ended his message with a friendly, “Don’t want to scare anyone, just make noise and carry a big stick.” Wild Boars? Land Sharks? We would most definitely not be leaving our tour group.
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Twice a day during their six week stint in the woods, the pigs are called down from the hills into a clearing for a supplemental feeding of barley. This not only ensures that they’re adequately fed; it serves as the perfect time for a head count, and to keep up the bond between farmer and animal. Some of the pigs have absolutely no interest in the barley whatsoever, happily ignoring humans and chomping away at acorns here and there. “They’re crunching; they’re busy,” explains Talbot. “Pigs are what they eat, and the American diet for pigs of corn and soy produces pork that is too bland. The flavor is in the fat.” Hiking the land with Talbot, a renowned expert in the field of hog genetics, was for Adam Danforth, a butcher and writer from Brooklyn, who had traveled by van with the rest of the New York group, part of the draw of the trip. “Chuck is a brilliant individual, and just being around him is inspiring. I had read 'Pig Perfect: Encounters with Remarkable Swine', (Peter Kaminsky’s 2005 book on which Talbot served as researcher) and I had talked to Nic [Heckett] but never met him; I wanted to meet and spend time with them both. I just want to glean whatever information I can about raising animals.” For Ian Kapitan, Executive Chef of New York’s Alobar, the weekend is all about continuing to close the gap between chefs, farmers, and the food he puts on people’s plates. Says Kapitan, “I had done huge food factory type restaurants with commodity meats and vegetables, and I was tired of it. There was no connection.” Chef Yvon de Tassigny of Brooklyn restaurants Fette Sau and St. Anselm agrees. “We don’t use any commodity animals. They’re all hormone free and naturally raised. More and more we’ve been using heritage breeds. It’s very important to me to see who raises these animals and to see that they’re free to roam around and eat what’s out there instead of just corn and soy or garbage.”
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In Fergus Henderson’s 2004 book, “The Whole Beast: Nose to Tail Eating”, the author declares, “If you're going to kill the animal it seems only polite to use the whole thing," and these days, most respectful chefs-including those in our group-consider this de rigueur when preparing meat in their restaurant kitchens, with some even bringing in whole animals to butcher on premises. In addition to reverence, this type of cooking promotes creativity with the use of some less popular cuts. Chef Kapitan also sees it as the ideal way to “know the traceability of the animals and to ensure what they’ve been raised on.” With so many proficient butchers in our bunch, ideas flew quickly with Danforth taking the lead when it came time to prepare the meat for dinner. “There are so many unique ways to break down these animals and I find it incredibly fascinating based on cultures and tradition. I would really like to spend some time in 125 ” Spain and study their techniques.
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Get a group of ravenous, innovative chefs together around a giant fire pit, throw in some extraordinary fresh pork, and stand back. Exciting things are going to happen. Everyone swiftly pitched in to prepare the evening meal while Cincinnati’s own Chef/Master Sommelier Steve Geddes spoiled the group with exceptional wines. Everyone took the opportunity to experiment with the unique cuts of meat and, utilizing the experience of some of the other chefs, de Tassigny even tried his hand at a traditional blood sausage. Lest we leave hungry, resident Chef Jay Denham and Cincinnati’s Justin Dean had put a whole other hog on the smoker that morning and Chef Bob Perry had arrived from Louisville with a truck full of the season’s best produce and jars of his homemade Ubatuba peppers. We would be eating well that evening. While the meal was being prepared, I had the chance to talk to Ben del Corro, Sales Manager and a chef at Fossil Farms in New Jersey. Fossil Farms sources unique proteins from sustainable small family farms for restaurants and the public. Del Corro shared with me his perspective on making the choice between this type of food and meat from a commodity producer. “Being in food sales, I want to be able to tell my customers exactly where their food comes from and have complete transparency. In a city like New York, it’s easy to get lost and not know where things come from. You just have to taste a product like this and you know that it’s a different breed, a different caliber. This is why we deal with small farms. There’s no other way to get food this way. This breed of pig raised this way, under these conditions, by these people, in this environment. The French call it terroir. We call it regional food.” We finished the day as it had begun, around the campfire. We shared food, drink, and stories. Although the pork we were eating was far above par, Dr. Talbot reminded me that he considers the project an experiment and a constant work in progress. He laughs, “It’s a bit like Jurassic Park. I’m not sure of many people doing this, and I’m not sure who would do this.”
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Chef Jose Salazar of The Cincinnatian Hotel & Palace Restaurant can often be found in the garden at Carriage House Farm. “Every time I come out here, I walk away with new tidbits of information; I love to learn to identify things. I also gain a new appreciation for food,” he says. “Being stuck in a kitchen all day, we [chefs] often forget that people are working away, breaking their backs to grow our food. I’m actually working on a program where I can bring my cooks out here to work as well.” Sixth generation Carriage House Farm owner Richard Stewart benefits from such a close relationship with local chefs as well. In fact, he loves popping into the Palace kitchen while making deliveries to see just what Chef Salazar prepares with his produce, grains, and honey. “This [working with chefs] is what makes my job enjoyable. I drop off items like sumac, and he [Chef Salazar] shows me what he’s done with it. It gives a story and a history to the food. It started with my family before the Revolutionary War and now me, which is half the story, and it pairs with Jose’s [Chef Salazar] story. This is food with quality," he says. One crop that Stewart’s family was most definitely not farming generations ago here in southwestern Ohio is organic Hawaiian ginger. Stewart is always looking for low-maintenance crops that have a little bit of an unusual aspect to them, and ginger seemed to be a good, “set and forget” example. Not only did it prove to be a successful crop, it was also extremely popular among chefs and market-goers, often selling out almost as soon as it was harvested. One of the things we treasure most here at 513{eats} is indeed this strong bond between our local farmers and chefs. We truly believe that it’s not only vital to producing a healthy and delicious food community, but a thriving economic one as well. But of course, on the day we were hard at work on the farm toiling away on our Carriage House Farm story, 128 the only thing on our minds was our stomachs. Thank goodness Chef Salazar happened to be there preparing a succulent ginger glazed shoulder of pork. Ok, well, in all honesty, we did set the whole thing up, but aren’t you glad?
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Chef Salazar and Carriage House Farms Garden Manager Kate Cook harvest ginger and micro-greens.
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513{eats} contributing media designer, Eric Hinz, captures an afternoon visit with Richard Stewart and Kate Cook of Carriage House Farm and Chef Jose Salazar harvesting & cooking. Click on "the VIDEO" to view.
Soy- ginger glazed pork butt 4-5lb boneless pork butt roast 1/2 cup vegetable oil 2T fresh ground pepper 10 garlic cloves 3C water or more if needed 1C demi-glace (reduced veal stock) * 1C soy sauce 1C mirin (sweet rice wine) 1/4 cup brown sugar 1/3 cup fresh grated ginger 1/4 cup rice wine vinegar Kombu seaweed (approx. 6" x 3" piece) Sea salt to taste
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In a blender, combine garlic and vegetable oil to obtain a paste. Add pepper. Make shallow slits into the roast and rub with the paste. Sprinkle lightly with
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salt, cover, and refrigerate overnight. Preheat oven to 300 F. Place a wire rack in the bottom of a roasting pan just large enough to hold the roast. Place the roast on top of the wire rack and put enough water to come up to the bottom of the roast (approx. 1") Cover tightly with aluminum foil and roast 3 hours or until fork tender. While the roast is in the oven, prepare the glaze... Place the demi-glace, soy sauce, mirin, sugar, and vinegar into a sauce pan over medium heat. Bring to a simmer stirring occasionally to prevent scorching. Simmer 10 minutes, add ginger, then cook for another 5 minutes. Remove from heat, add Kombu, and steep for 15 minutes. Remove Kombu and discard. Set glaze aside or refrigerate. Remove foil from roast and raise oven temperature to 425 F. Cook for 1015 minutes or until it takes on a nice amber roasted color. Brush on the glaze. Repeat about 5 times to achieve a good coating. Remove from oven and allow to rest for 20 minutes. Slice and sprinkle with just a touch of sea salt or drizzle with extra glaze. Serve immediately. Serves 8-10 people *Demi -glace is available at fine gourmet shops or through on line purveyors such as d’artagnan. If you cannot find demi-glace replace it with low sodium beef stock that has been reduced by half.
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513 {eats}