Review

Flavors So Bold, It’s Criminal

Accomplice

WRITTEN BY BRIANNA POULOS PHOTOGRAPHED BY BELLA CORONADO

VISIT ACCOMPLICE TO savor the bold and innovative tastes of classic American favorites.

Opened on Jan. 1, 2021, Accomplice is run by the same team of New York chefs from Carnal. Partners James Zamory, Aaron Saurer, and Sean McDermott are blending the gourmet flavors of fine dining with the convenience and comfort of burgers and fried chicken.

Originally called Comrade, the whole brand underwent a major transformation shortly after its opening. The former purple and orange interior was updated to create a much more timeless, sleek, and creative atmosphere.

“Somebody asked me why I named it the Comrade. And I was like, ‘Well, it’s the accomplice to Carnal,’ and then I was like, ‘Oh, wow, that actually sounds cooler.’ That’s when the masked guy came into play,” says Zamory.

A modern interpretation of the Hamburglar, a figure dressed in a jumpsuit and Nike Dunks can be seen actively breaking into the ceiling, peaking out of windows, and hiding in the bathroom. The playful character has become

a cornerstone of the brand, the masked logo mischievous and smirking.

Famous paintings such as “American Gothic,” “Liberty Leading the People,” “The Great Wave off Kanagawa,” and the “Mona Lisa” have been recreated to feature the curious thief and are hung throughout the restaurant.

“We try to elevate common things, and maybe teach in a way, with different flavors that you haven’t had before but always have it still echo some kind of comfort or nostalgia,” says Zamory.

The Spicy Fried Chicken Sandwich ($14) is among the best-sellers, featuring chili oil and pickled jalapenos to deliver a real kick. Mayonnaise infused with the flavors of roasted chicken is smeared across the buns, incorporating yet another element of flavor. This sandwich is tangy with a satisfying and crisp crunch.

For those who prefer sweet over spicy, the Honey Fried Chicken Sandwich ($14) is the perfect option with pickles, roast chicken mayo, and honey that is steeped with roasted chicken bones.

For an elevated classic, order the Double Cheeseburger ($14). The burger is stacked two patties high with pickles, American cheese, and beef bone mayo — yet another unique condiment creation.

“We put so much thought and work into these sandwiches. I mean, it looks so simple, but what we put into this mayonnaise is crazy. How long it takes, you know, people taste that,” says Zamory about the restaurant’s attention to detail.

Even the Fries ($4) feature an exciting twist, topped with parsley and lemon for a full citrus experience. The Nutcracker ($9) is a New Yorkinspired cocktail with Bacardi, Soco, and bright fruity flavors.

With every aspect of their menu, Accomplice is pushing the boundaries of what it means to enjoy classic American cuisine. “We care a lot and I guess I want people to know that we just want it to be as tasty as it possibly can.” 1232 N. State St., Bellingham, 360.778.2336, eataccomplice.com 

PUB Seafood, Steak 205 E. Washington St., La Conner 360.766.6179, theoysterandthistle.com The Oyster & Thistle Restaurant and Pub takes the time to prepare food with care. Their pastas are handmade and hand-cranked using semolina flour and an egg-rich dough. You’ll also find plenty of fresh, expertly shucked oysters and perfectly seared sea scallops.

RAILROAD PUB & PIZZA Pizza, American 122 S. Spruce St., Burlington 360.982.2133, railroadpizza.com Railroad Pub & Pizza in downtown Burlington has all the charm of a rustic pub with quality food and drinks. The menu boasts several artisan pizza options on a 24-hour aged malted dough crust, as well as soups, salads, and sandwiches. The bar offers a multitude of taps for craft beer and ciders. The wide garage-style windows open in the summer, and the central fireplace heats the space in the winter. It’s a great place to watch a game, drink a beer, and eat some pizza.

THE RHODY CAFE American 5521 Chuckanut Dr., Bow 360.766.6667, rhodycafe.com The Rhody Cafe is a spot with a cozy, home-style feel that places emphasis on fresh, local Washington ingredients. Even the pew-like benches that line the walls were built by a local carpenter. Small glass vases hold fresh-picked flowers and plants that sit next to small paper dessert menus on pressed wood tables, giving the air of a family dining room. The Rhododendron changes its menu three times a year to follow what is fresh, in season, and available.

SAKURA JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE &

SUSHI BAR Japanese 1830 S. Burlington Blvd., Burlington 360.588.4281, sakuraburlington.com Professional Teppanyaki chefs take you on a journey of delicious and interactive dining at Burlington’s Sakura Japanese Steakhouse. Using the freshest ingredients and perfect seasonings, they stir-fry your meal right before your eyes, creating a fabulous feast. Choose from steak and chicken to salmon and shrimp; each meal is served with soup, salad, rice, and vegetables. If it’s sushi you crave, they also offer a full sushi bar.

THE SALTED GRAPE Bistro, American 110 N. 1st St. Unit A, La Conner 360.399.1166, thesaltedgrape.com If you’re looking for your new favorite restaurant, head to La Conner and check out Salted Grape Bistro. Before shifting to a career in food, Chef Nathan Salter went to school for art and sculpture. You’ll find traces of his artist talent in his dishes, which are all beautifully plated, with eye-catching shapes, colors, and designs. Pair this with owner and Sommelier Leslie Grover’s wine expertise, and you’re in for a treat.

SHAMBALA BAKERY & BISTRO American 614 S. 1st Ave., Mount Vernon 360.588.6600, shambalabakery.com Crack open Shambala Bakery and Bistro’s menu to find all-day breakfast options and an array of sandwiches, salads, pizzas, and lighter fare items such as quiche and soup. Their daily specials take advantage of what’s in season.

SKAGIT VALLEY’S FARMHOUSE American 13724 Laconner Whitney Rd., Mount Vernon 360.466.4411, thefarmhouserestaurant.net Craving home-cooked food but don’t want to make it yourself? Skagit Valley’s Farmhouse may be what you’re looking for. When first entering the building, you walk past a mouthwatering pie showcase and through a gift shop that has the perfect items for Ma and Pa. The decor is reminiscent of country living. Even though their breakfasts are famous, try their lunch and dinner menus as well—when you eat here, you’re home.

SWINOMISH SPORTS BAR & GRILL

American 12885 Casino Dr., Anacortes, 888.288.8883, swinomishcasinoandlodge.com Located along the waterfront of Anacortes, this is not your run-of-the-mill sports bar. While you can go the more classic bar-food route, this restaurant offers Italian, barbeque, seafood, Southern, among many other cuisine styles. Find the latest lines, watch the race, or grab a beer and grub as you watch every play, pass, and score.

TRUMPETER PUBLIC HOUSE Gastropub 416 Myrtle St., Mount Vernon 360.588.4515, trumpeterpublichouse.com Trumpeter is an ideal combination of high-end, fine dining, and English pub fare. Try traditional pub selections or more unique seafood choices. Additionally, Trumpeter looks to accommodate all tastes with gluten-free dishes and the option to make any dish gluten-free. Of course, a pub isn’t complete without beer and Trumpeter completes the dining experience with 18 taps of local and European brews.