WHETHER YOU’RE KAYAKING the San Juan Islands, rafting the Skagit River, or doing yoga on a paddleboard at Lake Padden, our region’s waters have something to offer everyone. That’s why we’re bringing you a guide to the local resources you need to make a splash this summer but appreciating these waters requires looking beyond outdoor recreation alone. Luckily there are endless ways to have fun in the sun while also respecting the culture, ecology, and history of the waterways that make the North Sound so special. So, without further ado, let’s dive in!
Have you ever wondered what to call the waters that lie just beyond our shorelines? What North Sound residents often refer to as “the bay” actually encompasses a variety of bodies of water, each with its own name.
The northernmost is Semiahmoo Bay, which is the southeastern section of Boundary Bay and extends north of the border into British Columbia. It’s named for the Semiahmoo First Nation and, after many years of cannery operations, is now home to Semiahmoo Resort and Spa. Semiahmoo Bay feeds into Drayton Harbor in Blaine, which is separated from the bay by the Semiahmoo Spit.
Below Semiahmoo Bay is Birch Bay, which shares its name with a state park and the census-designated place of the same name. Birch Bay State Park boasts 8,255 feet of saltwater shoreline, as well as 14,923 feet of freshwater shoreline on Terrell Creek. It’s a popular pick for camping, boating, picnics, fishing, and hard shell clamming (as Birch Bay is abundant in Dungeness crab). Below Birch Bay is Lummi Bay, which is located off Lummi Nation and also encompasses the communities of Sandy Point and Neptune Beach.
Lummi Bay lies above Bellingham Bay, which extends from Lummi Peninsula to Clark’s Point and borders the city of Bellingham. The city’s waterfront was an industrial site for more than a century, but this era ended with the closing of the Georgia-Pacific mill in 2007. Now, the City and Port of Bellingham are working to clean up the 12 toxic waste sites left behind. Each is in a different stage of cleanup, but the ultimate goal is to transform the waterfront into a space that’s both accessible to the community and a safe habitat for flora and fauna to thrive. To learn more about the cleanup sites, visit re-sources.org.
South of Bellingham Bay is the three-mile-long Chuckanut Bay, which originated during the formation of the Chuckanut Mountains that border it. It features a variety of scenic spots including Clark’s Point and Teddy Bear Cove. Below Chuckanut Bay is tiny Pleasant Bay, then Samish Bay, which can be admired from scenic spots like Larrabee State Park, Clayton Beach, and the Oyster Dome lookout. Fun fact: Samish Bay is known for its oysters. In fact, it’s the site of the first-ever Pacific oysters, which have populated the waters since 1919 after being thrown from a cargo ship.
Continuing south into Skagit County, you’ll come across Padilla Bay, a shallow body of water that features exposed mudflats at low tide. This bay features the Padilla Bay National Estuarine Research Reserve, which protects 11,966 acres of diverse wetlands. It contains one of the largest beds of eelgrass in the contiguous United States, plus wildlife crabs, eagles, shorebirds, fish (including salmon), and even mammals such as river otters and seals. Last but not least is the Skagit Bay, which is connected to Padilla Bay by the Swinomish Channel. It’s emptied into by the Skagit River and is surrounded by Whidbey, Fidalgo, and Camano islands.
If saltwater isn’t quite your jam, never fear: You also have plenty of options for recreation when it comes to freshwater. The North Sound is home to a variety of rivers, streams, lakes so many, in fact, that we could never name them all but we can give you a quick guide to some of the most notable ones.
The Nooksack River originates in the Mount Baker Wilderness and begins in earnest at the merging of three forks the North, Middle, and South Forks near the city of Deming. The scenic North Fork is especially notable, as it gathers icy runoff from the East Nooksack Glacier.
Further south is the Skagit River, which begins in British Columbia and flows into the Puget Sound via the Skagit Bay. Along the way, it enters and exits through notable recreation spots such as Ross Lake and Diablo Lake (both of which feature boat-in campsites). It’s also joined by its major tributaries, the Sauk River and Cascade River, near Marblemount. Like the Nooksack River, the Skagit River is a popular spot for tubing, kayaking, and rafting.
Whatcom County is home to a whopping 113 lakes, and perhaps the most notable is Lake Whatcom. It provides drinking water to more than 100,000 residents of Bellingham and the surrounding county. Lake Whatcom is also home to summertime spots like Bloedel Donovan Park and Lake Whatcom Park, where its (relatively) warm waters offer endless opportunities for recreation. Just south of Bellingham is Lake Samish, which also features a swimming area and is another popular spot for boating, fishing, kayaking, and paddleboarding.
Other popular lakes serve as hiking destinations in the Chuckanut Mountains, including Fragrance Lake, Lost Lake, and Pine and Cedar Lakes. (Speaking of mountains, hikers and backpackers will find a variety of lakes in the Mount Baker wilderness, though these will likely be too chilly for swimming.) Lake Padden and Squires Lake are surrounded by trails that make them ideal for family hikes, and Silver Lake and Baker Lake are classic picks for fishing, boating, and camping.
Skagit County has 119 lakes, and Lake Erie (near Anacortes), Lake Shannon (near Concrete), Cranberry Lake (near Deception Pass), and the aptly-named Big Lake (near Mount Vernon) are all ideal for boating and fishing. Clear Lake Beach is a popular spot for families in the summer months, and Lake Campbell (located at the base of Mount Erie) is an underrated spot for swimming.
We’d also be remiss not to mention some of the lakes of the San Juans: The lakes at Lakedale Resort on San Juan Island, Mountain Lake and Cascade Lake on Orcas Island, and Hummel Lake on Lopez Island are just a few of our favorites.
When speaking about our region’s waterways, it’s important to acknowledge the Coast Salish peoples who have been stewarding them since time immemorial. The following words are courtesy of the Sacred Lands Conservancy, an Indigenousled 501(c)(3) nonprofit organization dedicated to protecting the life, culture, and sanctity of the Salish Sea.
AFEW HUNDRED YEARS ago, when European ships pulled into what is now called Bellingham Bay, the men aboard couldn’t see the land for all the trees; the trees were so big, the forests so thick. Fish were so plentiful you could walk across their backs. We’ve always said, “When the tide is out, the table is set,” meaning, at low tide, there are clams, crab, oysters, so much food to be harvested! The waters and the lands have always provided for us.
In our Lhaq’temish language, Xwlemi chosen, there is no word for famine. We never went hungry. All of our villages were right on the water. The waterways of the Salish Sea connected us with one another, and with our traditional fishing, hunting, and gathering places. The waters connected us, the waters provided for us. Our songs, stories, culture, and spirituality are of and in this place. We are one with all the life here, with the waters, with the rocks, with the fish, the whales, the eagles.
Water is life. We can’t survive without fresh water to drink, without the salmon that depend on healthy rivers and a healthy Salish Sea.
Right now, our waters are threatened by pollution, by large industrial projects, by marine vessel traffic. The Salish Sea has become crowded, dirty, noisy and this affects the health of all our relations who live underwater. Salmon runs are threatened, our resident orca population is endangered. Our fishermen are hurting, economically and spiritually. We are a fishing people. We can’t survive without fish, without salmon.
The Point Elliott Treaty that we signed with other tribes and the United States government in 1855 promises that we
have rights to fish, hunt, and gather in our traditional territory for as long as the mountain still stands and the river flows. This promise is meaningless if there is nothing left to fish, hunt, and gather. The Treaty is the supreme law of the land. It’s up to all of us, tribal and U.S. citizens, to uphold the Treaty promises. This means we all need to work together to ensure the health and vitality of the Salish Sea and all the rivers that feed it.
We have always been in reciprocal relation with this place. We know that Mother Earth provides for us, so we take care of her the best we can. Take only what is needed. Never take the first, nor the last, of whatever you may be harvesting. Give thanks. Be generous. These are lessons of this place. We encourage all who now make their homes here, and those who may be visiting, to also be in such a relationship with this place.
We live in such a beautiful part of the world! Enjoy it!
But as you recreate upon the waters, or on the islands, in the forest, on the mountain, please take time to learn the history of this place. We have been here since time immemorial; our history is long. We have learned good teachings about how to live here, and we welcome the chance to share these teachings. The history of the past couple hundred years is brutal, but acknowledging the truth of history allows us all to learn from it, heal, and move forward into the future in a good way.
Learn about this place, about the finned, the winged, the four-legged creatures, about the trees, the rocks, the waters. How might you be kind and generous, how might you caretake, and be thankful? How might you treat this place as if it were your dearly beloved?
To learn more about the Sacred Lands Conservancy and their work, visit sacredsea.org.
You can also find this month’s installment of Since Time Immemorial, a recurring series spotlighting community members whose families have been here since time immemorial, on p. 30.
PARKS AND POPULAR beaches (think Bloedel-Donovan on Lake Whatcom, or Marine Park in Fairhaven) might be the most obvious picks for cooling down on a hot summer’s day. However, if you’re looking for something a bit more rustic, we have a few suggestions for you.
Pixie Falls
Where: Whatcom Falls Park, 1401 Electric Ave., Bellingham
Why: This spot is a true hidden gem in Whatcom Falls. To get there, enter the park from the corner of Woburn and Iowa streets. Walk up the tall flight of steps, then continue down until you spot a side trail to your right. Take this trail until you come across a fence and a dirt embankment; once you descend the embankment, you’ll find yourself at Pixie Falls.
Baker Hot Springs
Where: Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest
Why: If you prefer soaking to swimming, then Mount Baker Hot Springs might be up your alley. These two geothermal pools are accessible from a 0.6-mile out-and-back trail in the Mount Baker wilderness, and directions can be found on alltrails.com. Be forewarned: There are no amenities here, but if you’re not looking for luxury, the rustic atmosphere adds to the springs’ charm.
Toad Lake
Where: Bellingham (public access at the end of Toad Lake Road)
Why: This lesser-known lake (also known as Emerald Lake) tends to be popular among the student crowds and is located just five miles outside of Bellingham proper. It features a public dock that’s perfect for lounging, plus a rope swing for thrill-seeking swimmers.
Racehorse Falls
Where: Deming
Why: Racehorse Falls is accessible via a 0.6-mile out-andback-trail (which, we should note, was ranked by alltrails. com as “moderately challenging”). The area allegedly gets its name from a small cave on the edge of the falls that resembles a horse head. While the scenery alone is worth the jaunt, the pool below the lower waterfall is an idyllic swimming hole in the summer months.
Racehorse FallsLake Whatcom Park
Where: 3220 N. Shore Rd., Bellingham
Why: Bloedel-Donovan is always a favorite when it comes to lake days, but if you’d prefer to experience a more low-key side of Lake Whatcom, head down the Hertz Trail (a.k.a. North Lake Whatcom Trail). You’ll come across several quiet beaches close to the trailhead.
Fragrance Lake
Where: Chuckanut Drive (accessible from a trailhead directly across from the entrance to Larrabee State Park)
Why: Don’t forget about the mountains when planning a day by the water! The Chuckanuts are home to several unique mountain lakes, but you’ll have to hike to reach them. You can work up a sweat, cool off with a quick dip, and descend back down to Chuckanut Drive. (Fragrance Lake isn’t exactly a hidden gem, but is our favorite spot because of the downed tree that doubles as a makeshift dock.)
Mountain Lake
Where: Moran State Park, Orcas Island
Why: Orcas Island features several lakes worth exploring, but Mountain Lake is the largest. It’s located 900 feet up Mount Constitution, and we love it for several reasons: First, the hike to get there is one of Orcas’ very best. Second, there is a small island smack-dab in the middle of the lake that’s fun to swim to and explore. Third, it’s home to one of the most fun rope swings in all of the North Sound!
Whistle Lake
Where: Anacortes
Why: Just three miles south of Anacortes is Whistle Lake, a classic summertime spot for families. It’s encircled by a 3.7-mile loop that’s well-suited for easy hikes and brisk jogs alike. In addition to swimming, the calm waters are ideal for paddleboarding and even cliff jumping at the lake’s south end.
Bonus saltwater beaches: If you find yourself on San Juan Island, Granny’s Cove is a stunning sandy beach featuring panoramic ocean views and warmer-than-usual water. Prefer something on the mainland? You can swim at Locust Beach and Clayton Beach near Bellingham, but be warned: The waters here aren’t quite as warm. Finally, Sunset Beach is our favorite spot for swimming on Lummi Island, and its west-facing location makes it ideal for you guessed it sunset watching.
Mountain Lake
Whether you prefer the lake, river, or the bay, kayaking is one of the most popular ways to explore the waters of the North Sound. You’ve likely gathered by now that there are quite a few waterways to explore; to get you started, the Port of Bellingham even has a Whatcom Water Trails map. It highlights 22 water trails in the county and is accessible at bellingham.org.
The San Juan Islands and Skagit and Whatcom county’s shorelines also fall within the Cascadia Marine Trail, which is a water trail spanning the length and width of the Puget Sound. It’s one of just 16 National Millennium Trails, or trails considered nationally significant at the turn of the century. Though the trail is not yet complete, the goal of the Washington Waterway Trail Association (WWTA) is to establish camping areas every five to eight miles for the safety of “human- and wind-powered boaters” and yes, this includes kayaks!
You can purchase your very own kayak from Yeager’s Sporting Goods or rent from places including Bloedel Boat Rentals, Bellingham’s Community Boating Center, or Blue Otter Outfitters in Anacortes. Alternatively, if you’d like to try your hand at sea kayaking, you can take a how-to course from the Community Boating Center.
For a day of adventure, take a guided tour from companies like Anacortes Kayak Tours (Anacortes), San Juan Island Outfitters (San Juan Island), or Moondance Sea Kayak Adventures (Bellingham). The latter two companies even offer nighttime bioluminescence tours!
Even before founding Dragonfly Kayak Tours, Tori Ayres knew she could find refuge on the water. She began kayaking with her uncle in New Hampshire when she was just a child, and in the years that followed, getting on the water provided solace amid life’s ups and downs. After a divorce, Ayres had the opportunity to reshape her life in a big way and, once again, she found her answer on the water.
“I had gone to Europe for a few months, and when I was there, I discovered this kayak touring business in Portugal,” Ayres says. “I was like, ‘Huh, that’s a great business model.’ So I … started doing some research on what it would take to start one. I knew I didn’t want to be landlocked anymore.”
Ayres moved to Bellingham in 2016 and immediately felt a sense of belonging. She started Dragonfly Kayak Tours just one year later, then led her first official tour in 2018. Dragonfly Kayak Tours focuses on small groups of up to 12 people, and while the main offerings are half-day trips, day trips, and bioluminescence trips, they also run a kids’ camp and occasional overnight excursions.
Ayres focuses her business on the waters surrounding Bellingham, and some favorite spots for sea kayaking include Larrabee State Park, Dogfish Point, and Chuckanut Island. Her client range is diverse, encompassing everyone from children with their grandparents to a bachelor party and everyone in between. (She even offers customized tours to those who request them!) Kayakers also don’t need extensive experience to participate: Ayres even offers courses in the basics, and tour participants wear life jackets for the duration of the trip.
While her solo kayaking endeavors inspired a sense of peace, Ayres says that the Dragonfly group tours lean towards a different atmosphere. Being out on the water often brings out a playful, adventurous side of her customers or, in other words, a sense of freedom that’s not always accessible in dayto-day life.
“I’ve had people sing sea shanties,” Ayres says. “People just get out there and they have fun. They’re not stressed. They’re not thinking about anything else. If I have a smaller group, you do feel more Zen calmness, [but] I see more playfulness than anything.” Bellingham, 360.453.7036, dragonflykayaktours.com
Photo by Alicia Jean Photography
The idea of doing a headstand on dry land is intimidating enough but Melissa Longfellow goes a step further by taking her practice to the water. As an instructor with FLUX Power Yoga, she offers SUP Yoga classes on Lake Padden during the summer and no, you don’t have to be a paddle or yoga pro to participate.
Longfellow moved to the West Coast to become a surfer in San Diego, and she’s been teaching yoga for more than 20 years. She saw SUP yoga as a way to unite these two big passions, so when she was presented with the opportunity to become a certified teacher, she jumped at the opportunity. 10 years later, Longfellow is used to getting questions about the practice. The most common one: “Will I fall in?” Yes, she says, it’s possible but it can be avoided by skipping more balance-oriented poses like crow and headstands. Plus, yoga SUP boards are sturdier than you think: They’re longer, wider, and more stable than their traditional counterparts (though you do need to pay special attention to your center of gravity).
Students don’t have to have previous yoga or paddleboard experience; in fact, they don’t even need to know how to swim. Longfellow supplies the boards to all students and sets them up on a line before classes begin. She even brings students to their spot via a “taxi ride” on her own board, meaning that no paddle experience is necessary, and life jackets are readily available and attached to each board’s front end via bungee cord.
But the most unique thing about SUP yoga isn’t the board or even the yoga it’s the water itself. It’s rare to have such close contact with the elements in a yoga class; plus, Longfellows says the water’s nature tends to inspire more fluid movement.
“The difference between doing yoga on a flat, sturdy ground and on water is that you are forced to bring your attention to that fluid feeling,” Longfellow says. “And if you stiffen up and get rigid, then you’re gonna go in the water. But if you stay fluid, the joints will absorb that motion. It really brings you present to the element of water.” 1140 10th St., Ste. 101, Bellingham, fluxpoweryoga.com
Here’s a fun fact: While canoes were invented long ago in the Arctic to be used as hunting vessels, paddleboards originated in Hawaii, and their popularity didn’t take off until the 20th century. While kayakers sit down and operate their vessel with a double-bladed paddle, stand-up paddleboards (or SUPs) are propelled with a single-blade paddle. Kayaks have the advantage when it comes to stability, but SUPs are more portable and some of them are even inflatable!
Most places that rent kayaks also rent SUPs, and we’d also be remiss not to mention Lakewood on Lake Whatcom. Students, alumni, and faculty members at Western Washington University are all eligible for discounted rentals on water crafts from SUPs to sailboats. You can also rent or buy your very own SUP from Kite Paddle Surf at Squalicum Harbor. (Thrill seekers take note: If paddleboarding isn’t extreme enough for you, they also specialize in kitesurfing, windsurfing, and more!)
Photos by Brandon SawayaWhen we think of water-based outdoor recreation, the lakes and bay might come to mind first but don’t forget about our region’s rivers. Some might opt for a leisurely float in some of the Skagit or Nooksack’s calmer waters, but for folks who prefer a bit of adventure, both rivers have whitewater rapids that can be experienced with the help of a trained guide.
A note: It should go without saying, but while it may be a safe bet to go paddleboarding alone, you don’t want to do the same on a raft. Whitewater rafting is dangerous, and it’s imperative to go with an experienced and certified professional.
The Nooksack is rated as having Class III rapids, whereas the Upper Skagit River has easier Class II rapids as well as Class III. Companies like Triad River Tours can guide you through these waters safely, as their certified guides receive extensive training and operate tours using state-of-theart equipment. The Glacier-based company Wild and Scenic River Tours also offers excursions on the Nooksack River.
If you want an adventure on the river but would prefer to skip the rapids, Triad also has more laid-back scenic tours. Their company Skagit River Guide Service offers Skagit River Eagle Tours, outings that are centered around bald eagle sightings, as well as photography tours during bald eagle migration season. Skagit River Tours specializes in small-group tours of the Upper and Lower Skagit River, as well as private charters out of La Conner, on a fast-moving SJX Jet boat. Additionally, if you’d prefer a laid-back lake tour, the North Cascades Institute has several options for cruises along Diablo Lake (which flows in and out of the Skagit River).
Courtesy of Triad River Tours
Photo by Kapil Kapre
Photo by Jack McLeod
Triad River Tours
Skagit River Guide Service
TRIAD RIVER TOURS has bases in both Seattle and Bellingham, and their experienced guides lead rafting tours on several rivers in Washington State, including the Skagit and Nooksack rivers. It was founded by Luke Baugh, who has more than two decades of experience as a whitewater raft guide. His approach to whitewater rafting places a heavy focus on sustainability, safety, leave-no-trace ethics, and genuine immersion in the nature that surrounds us.
“When it comes to rafting, instead of bringing a bunch of amenities that make people feel like they never left home, I advocate for a more legitimate experience with nature,” he says.
From the very beginning, Baugh took his role as a guide very seriously. He says that while the industry in those early days was largely populated by “adrenaline junkies,” his need to provide for his young daughter kept him grounded. Now, he says rafting has become more of a recreational, naturefocused experience.
“If a human being is a part of nature, and our suffering comes from being separated from that, it would make sense that when we bring someone back into rhythm [with nature] … they would be healthier,” Baugh says. “So, in theory, the whole company is built on health.”
In regards to the Skagit River, Triad offers a Class II-III whitewater rafting tour that’s appropriate for beginnerand intermediate-level rafters. Running from June through September, Baugh says it’s a great introductory trip for new rafters.
They also offer scenic rafting tours on the Skagit River, including a bald eagle viewing tour that drifts through eight miles of bald eagle sanctuary. Rafters on this tour can also
expect to learn about salmon and eagle migrations, plus the roles they play within the river’s intricate ecology.
Safety is also a core focus of every tour, as Washington’s rivers can be dangerous without proper expertise. Thus, in addition to receiving advanced medical training, every Triad River Tours lead guide is SRT-1 (Swiftwater Rescue) trained and certified by the Swiftwater Safety Institute. They also make sure to invest in top-rated equipment.
Baugh says that the safety protocol talks at the beginning of their trips are also meant to bring riders to a place of feeling like they’re on the same team. Ideally, they create a foundation of collaboration and teamwork that lasts throughout the tour.
“You can see people that, if they’re with their family or their spouse, are … so busy, so [they] don’t spend much time together,’” Baugh says. “And then here you are and you’re like, ‘Oh my gosh, this person’s actually depending on me,’ and you learn how to paddle and participate as a team through the rapids and it’s a wonderful experience.”
Baugh also expresses his respect for the Salish peoples who have stewarded these waters, including the rivers, for generations. Overall, he believes that ethical and sustainable nature contact such as being surrounded by mountains, the smells and sounds of the forest, or just getting splashed in the face with glacier water can bring people closer to the earth, to the region’s histories, and to each other.
“People used to go on multi-day expeditions with me, and then I drop them off at their hotel and they’d be like, ‘Oh, yeah, we got to catch a flight. Back to reality,’” he says. “And I always thought that we have it backwards that’s not reality. This is reality.” Bellingham, 360.510.1243, triadrivertours.com
While there’s plenty of fun to be had on the water, don’t overlook the adventures that lie beneath the surface. The Salish Sea is a treat for divers of all stripes, from snorkelers to scuba divers and even free divers (who, unlike scuba divers, do not use a breathing apparatus).
Gone Diving in Bellingham is Whatcom County’s top resource for everything from gear to lessons, whereas Anacortes Diving is a full-service diving center in Skagit offering gear, classes, and even diving trips to locales as close as Vancouver Island or as far-flung as Indonesia.
WE MIGHT NOT have the Bahamas’ crystal-blue waters or Australia’s coral reefs, but Diver Sigrid Williams says that the depths of our bay are more interesting than some might assume. Moreover, while it’s exciting to spot aquatic life, octopi aren’t the only things worth observing in the Salish Sea.
“From walls, to pinnacles, to islands, to kelp forests, or even eelgrass, we have a lot of biodiversity,” Williams says. “Most new divers care about seeing the big things giant Pacific octopus, wolf eels, et cetera but as you do more and more dives, you start to notice all the small things, like the grunt sculpins hiding between rocks, the tiny nudibranchs munching away, and the barnacles feeding.”
Williams is an employee of Gone Diving, which has been Bellingham’s No. 1 diving resource for more than 15 years. It’s a full-service shop offering everything from retail to repairs, gear maintenance, professional training, classes, travel advice, and much more. “Diving,” in this case, encompasses everything from scuba diving to free diving, snorkeling, and hopefully in the near future even mermaid classes.
“Diving is like no other experience I have ever had. It is probably the closest you’ll get to being in space,” says Williams. “The feeling of weightlessly gliding through the water with no outside distraction, just being able to be completely present in the moment and enjoy a world that the majority of the population will never get to see or experience. It can be one of the most peaceful and tranquil feelings.”
Additionally, Williams notes that diving is a much more versatile sport than some might imagine. The technologicallyadvanced gear we have available in 2023 means that just about any body of water can be explored at any time of year, whether that be in the Bahamas or Antartica. (Locally speaking, Williams is a big fan of diving sites near the San Juan Islands, Keystone on Whidbey Island, and Skyline Wall in Anacortes.)
Want to get started on your own diving journey? The first step is to give the folks at Gone Diving a call. Once they know your goals, they can support you in getting the requisite gear, training, and certifications. Additionally, Gone Diving hosts a once-monthly meetup where new and seasoned divers alike can build community. 1740 Iowa St., Bellingham, 360.738.2042, gonediving.org
A note: If the opportunity to see sea creatures is more appealing than the act of diving, then bring the whole family to the Marine Life Center at Squalicum Harbor. This freeadmission attraction lets you get up close and personal with local marine life (including an octopus!), and they even feature a touch tank.
Courtesy of Gone Diving
“Diving is like no other experience I have ever had. It is probably the closest you’ll get to being in space”
IN WHATCOM COUNTY, the Port of Bellingham manages three main public boat launches: Squalicum Harbor (in Bellingham, accessible year-round), Blaine Harbor (just south of Canada, accessible year-round), and Fairhaven (Bellingham, available April-October and best suited for smaller vessels). There’s also a boat ramp in Larrabee State Park, plus freshwater launches at popular spots like Baker Lake, Lake Whatcom, and Lake Samish.
Top marinas and boat launches to know in Skagit County include La Conner Marina (open year-round), Mount Vernon’s Twin Bridges Marina (which, according to its website, is “the first full-service indoor heated dry stack marina in the state of Washington”), Anacortes Marina (which is within walking distance of Downtown Anacortes), and the Swinomish Channel Boat Launch.
For those hoping to connect with fellow boat enthusiasts, the Port of Bellingham (portofbellingham.com) has a comprehensive list of local boating organizations on its website. These include the Bellingham Yacht Club (byc. org), Squalicum Yacht Club (squalicumyc.org), and Bellingham Sail and Power Squadron (boatingisfun.org). Outside of Bellingham, check out the Swinomish Yacht Club in La Conner (swinomishyachtclub.org), plus Anacortes Yacht Club and Freedom Boat Club in Anacortes (anacortesyachtclub.com, freedomboatclub.com).
If you’re looking to explore our waterways by boat, the North Sound is home to several charter companies worth considering. (For a comprehensive list, check out portofbellingham.com!).
We love San Juan Cruises because they offer far more than just charters. Customers can join a sunset crab dinner cruise, island sightseeing voyages, and of course whale watching excursions (you can read even more about them on p. 29).
History buffs can take a ride on the historic MV Plover Ferry, which is Washington’s oldest foot passenger ferry. It
even offers kids the opportunity to steer the ship and become “captain for a day.” Speaking of history, there are more than a few reasons to take a ride on the classic, 160-foot Schooner Zodiac: You can rent a private charter for weddings or events, or join in on public excursions including brunch events, afternoon adventure sails, and even occasions like Mother’s Day or July 4.
Want to explore the San Juan Islands by sail? Sail the San Juans bills itself as “the premier crewed sailing charters in the San Juan Islands,” and they offer two options for excursions: a private charter (in which groups of up to six receive the exclusive treatment) or a cruise (in which customers reserve a stateroom for two, and the other cabins are filled by the company).
If you want to go the totally retro route, Schooners North specializes in day, overnight, and multi-day charters aboard traditionally gaff-rigged vessels (and yes, they totally look like pirate ships). Additionally, you can get up close and personal with orcas by taking a whale watching tour through Outer Island Excursions (departing from both Anacortes and Orcas Island).
Gato Verde Adventure Sailing is unique in that their customized small-group charters (from 1.5 hours to seven days, limited to up to six people) also include hands-on sailing instruction, natural and social history, and environmental stewardship. They also have options for whale watching tours. Fun fact: The Gato Verde catamaran is also the first wind electric hybrid charter boat on the West Coast!
If you’re looking to make a more permanent investment, would-be boat owners have more than a few options in the area. In addition to charters, NW Explorations and Bellhaven Yacht Sales and Charters offer brokerage services for those who are looking to own, not rent.
Bellingham Yachts has more than 39 years of experience, and their lineup includes high-end brands like Sabre, Back Cove, and Cutwater yachts. Cardinal Yacht Sales in Bellingham also specializes in buying, selling, and repairing boats. Anacortes residents have options including Pacific Marine Sales and West Yachts, whereas La Connerites can look to La Conner Yacht Sales (they’ve been providing the community with yacht brokerage services since 1971!).
Wear a wetsuit.
According to Bryan Rust, the Community Boating Center’s executive director, the bay doesn’t get above 55 degrees, even during the hottest days of summer meaning that hypothermia is always a risk. Humans can suffer severe health consequences after just 20–30 minutes of immersion in cold water, which is why it’s important to take precautions (like wearing a wetsuit).
Make a pre-departure checklist. If you’re going out on the water, you’re going to want to make sure that you have all the right tools. Make a predeparture checklist that encompasses everything from food and water to flotation devices, and check it twice before heading out.
Check the weather before you go. Part of being water-savvy means being weather-aware, so you should always check conditions before heading out on the bay. (Hint: boatingcenter.org/ weather has a great list of resources for monitoring wind, current, and weather conditions.)
Make your location and plans known. Don’t go out on the water without making a check-in plan with friends and family and moreover, don’t go out alone unless you are confident in your skills.
If you’re not feeling 100% certain of your skills, take a course!
The Community Boating Center offers courses and skill tests for a variety of water crafts, so if your sailing knowhow isn’t up to scratch just yet, you can (and should) learn from the pros.
IF YOU’RE HOPING to dive into sailing or kayaking this summer, but don’t know where to begin, the Bellingham Bay Community Boating Center (CBC) might be the resource you’ve been looking for. The nonprofit’s aim is to make small-boat recreation both accessible and inclusive; in fact, they provided more than $10,000 in scholarships, and $60,000 worth of community enrichment programs in 2022 alone.
The CBC performs a variety of functions within the community, including renting out boats like sailboats, dinghies, and keelboats, as well as paddle boards, rowboats, and kayaks. They also teach everything from beginner lessons in sailing and kayaking to advanced skill clinics for sailboat racing, kayak rescues and recoveries, navigation, and more.
Every program includes a heavy emphasis on cold-water safety, as temperatures below 55 degrees are dangerous to the human body, and the bay never gets above that threshold (even on hot summer days!). The ultimate aim is to give folks the support they need to get on the water safely and with confidence. All in all, Executive Director Bryan Rust says the CBC operates from a “holistic water-minded approach.”
“We’re not exclusively teaching sailing lessons or kayaking lessons; we’re trying to create opportunities where you can gain a connection to the sea and develop skills on different watercraft,” he says. “It would be ideal if the folks in our community can recognize the conditional variables that make a certain watercraft more or less appropriate.”
Moreover, regularly scheduled programming like rentals, paddle excursions, and lessons provide revenue for what Rust calls the CBC’s “mission work.” The organization is partnered with about 15 local organizations that serve a variety of underrepresented
demographics, including people with physical, emotional, and cognitive disabilities; people experiencing homelessness; veterans; and children in the foster system.
For example, in 2022, the CBC partnered with Vamos Outdoors Project to deliver summer camps and afterschool activities to 81 children from Latine and English Language-Learning families. They also hosted weekly Wild Women Paddle events, where femaleidentifying community members could sign up for a free group paddle (with equipment included). This kind of programming aims to eliminate physical and emotional barriers to outdoor recreation access, thereby helping all community members feel welcome on the water.
“No matter who you are, if you want to do what we’re doing and you can’t pay the bill, we got you,” Rust says. “So that’s one barrier. But identifying certain demographics that will thrive in a unique space, like the Wild Women Paddles, is critical for effectively defeating the emotional barriers to accessing therapeutic recreation in Bellingham.”
Other community events include an annual Pride Paddle, Halloween
Paddle, and the Lighted Boat Parade. In 2022, the CBC even put on “Beats on the Bay,”, a floating concert aboard the Schooner Zodiac with music from the Sweater Weather Spring Band.
Last (but certainly not least), Rust notes that there’s no sense in connecting people to the water without “telling the deeper story” of our region’s ecology, as well as how to preserve it. This is why the CBC aims to incorporate environmental education into all of its programming. They also regularly participate in community science and stewardship efforts with local environmental organizations like RE Sources and Surfrider.
All of this work is partially funded through programming like rentals and classes so if you support the CBC this summer, you know your dollars are in good hands. As its programming expands, the organization is also looking to upgrade its facilities via the construction of a brand-new building. Information on what’s to come, as well as how to donate or volunteer, can be found online or on Instagram @communityboatingcenter. 555 Harris Ave., Bellingham, 360.714.8891, boatingcenter. org
WHATCOM CREEK ORIGINATES from Lake Whatcom and flows west for 4.3 miles before reaching Bellingham Bay. It’s fed by four other streams, and its waters spread into 7.7 square miles of Whatcom County. The creek even supports salmon runs for coho, chum, and Chinook salmon.
Where Whatcom Creek meets Bellingham Bay, it forms an estuary. Despite all of the vital wildlife that grows in the brackish waters of estuaries, and the salmon that use estuaries as gateways to freshwater streams, parts of the Whatcom Creek Estuary became the Holly Street Landfill in the early 1900s. This landfill on Holly Street in Bellingham’s Old Town district grew to 13 acres of solid waste over roughly a century of use by private and municipal owners, and parts were eventually paved over.
Thankfully, in 2005, efforts to restore the Whatcom Creek Estuary began. 12,400 tons of waste were removed, habitats were restored, and measures to control pollution and waste seeping into the creek were put in place. This restoration was completed thanks to the combined efforts of 14 different federal, tribal, state, and local governments under the Bellingham Bay Demonstration Pilot project, which began in 1996.
Protecting our waters is a crucial, urgent matter that requires steady, consistent effort. Each and every one of us holds a personal responsibility to minimize our impact and contribute to recovery. Here are some organizations with the information and tools to help you help our life-giving waters.
Sacred Lands Conservancy, doing business as Sacred Sea, is an Indigenous-led non-profit that promotes using ancestral knowledge and practices to protect, restore, and revitalize life in and around the Salish Sea. They focus not only on the waters and creatures that live therein, but also on Indigenous culture and sacred sites by spreading awareness of historical stewardship in the region by native peoples. One project towards this goal is the campaign to bring home Sk’aliCh’elhtenaut (also known as Lolita and Tokitae), an orca who was taken from the Southern Resident Killer Whale L-pod in 1970. Sacred Sea also produces events, art, and even a podcast that promotes the cultures and indigenized stewardship of the Salish Sea, which you can find at sacredsea.org.
Nooksack Salmon Enhancement Association (NSEA) NSEA is a non-profit determined to reverse the decline of salmon runs in Whatcom County. They’re community-based in that their mission revolves around educating and engaging residents to power ecological recovery and protection. At their website, n-sea.org, you can learn more about salmon and their habitats, join a work party, and see how NSEA’s restoration efforts have positively impacted rivers and creeks.
This Bellingham-based nonprofit is all about region-wide impact enacted by people given “practical ways to make a real difference.” RE Sources advocates for science-based, climate-aware law and policy, aims to educate adults and the next generation on environmental stewardship, and puts people to work reducing harmful pollution, waste, and habitat degradation. Head to re-sources.org to join the 10,000+ residents who have taken action with RE Sources.
Sustainable Connections wants communities around the North Sound and beyond to thrive, with a focus on growth and positive development. This nonprofit takes stock of what we need to move forward: power and voice to marginalized communities, investment in local businesses and movements, and clean and protected environments. Their efforts to protect our ecosystems include clean energy initiatives, green building programs, and spotlighting other community efforts to protect the creatures and waters of the Salish Sea. Find all of this and more at sustainableconnections.org.
Photo by Joshua DeJongTHE NORTH SOUND area is home to extremely rich, diverse aquatic ecosystems. We’re the northernmost region of Puget Sound, which pushes into Washington State from the inland Salish Sea and is the nation’s second largest estuary by shoreline. (Chesapeake Bay on the East Coast has us beat, with a watershed that stretches through six states!) Estuaries usually occur where salty and freshwater meet, often where rivers let out into the sea, creating a brackish water.
This means that, very near to all of us, we have freshwater and saltwater wildlife, as well as organisms that thrive in the nutrient-rich and delicately balanced brackish water environments. With thousands of miles of shoreline, wetlands, lakes, and rivers, it’s no surprise our area is home to a truly boggling amount of plants and animals!
Salmon
These fresh to salt waterways are exactly what supports some of Northwestern Washington’s most famous wildlife salmon. The many rivers that are part of this watershed are the spawning grounds for the anadromous Pacific salmon, which include the species Chinook, coho, pink, sockeye, and chum. They similarly support steelhead trout, which are cousins of salmon within the family salmonidae. Being anadromous means that these fish lay their eggs in freshwater rivers, where the young hatch, grow, and eventually travel downstream to the sea for their adulthood. When it’s time, the fish return back to the rivers from whence they came to start the cycle all over again. These annual pilgrimages are known as salmon runs. They have always been, and continue to be, a vital part of the PNW’s ecosystem and ways of life.
Unfortunately, salmon runs in Washington have been noticeably troubled for over 100 years. In 1875, the U.S. Commission of Fish and Fisheries reported to Congress that salmon were threatened by overfishing, dams, and habitat
degradation, and in 1894 on the reduction of salmon in the Columbia River.
Nooksack Salmon Enhancement Association (NSEA) recognizes that things have only gotten tougher for salmon as time marches on, which is why they’ve dedicated their efforts to protecting and preserving salmon habitats. Read more about them on p. 63.
The cetaceans of the Salish Sea and Puget Sound are many things: vital to the balance of the sea, icons in the cultures of the Pacific Northwest, and always breathtaking to catch sight of. There are more species of whales and dolphins around here than you might think, including Pacific white-sided dolphins, humpback whales, minke whales, fin whales, and dall’s porpoises, but perhaps the most recognizable of marine mammals for many Washingtonians will be the orca.
Also known as killer whales or qwe ‘lhol mechen, meaning “our relations below the waves” in the Lummi language, orcas are the largest type of dolphin and top predators within their ecosystems. In our waters, they are divided into resident and transient orcas. The transient orcas are more likely to come and go from inner Washington waters, travel in groups of two to six, and hunt other marine mammals like harbor seals, smaller dolphins, and whales. Our resident orcas, also known as Southern Resident Killer Whales, have truly localized and feed only on salmon, primarily the large Chinook. These resident orcas live in three pods, named J, K, and L, which have matriarchal social systems.
Our resident orcas are also endangered. Already struggling due to dwindling salmon and human effects on their habitats, their numbers were slashed when many of them were captured for large aquarium shows in the late 1960s. To learn more about our oceanic neighbors, visit wildorca.org or thewhaletrail.org!
IF YOU’VE EVER been on the bay past dark, you might have encountered bioluminescence thousands of tiny, fluorescent “sparks” that illuminate the water as it moves. While the phenomenon might feel like something out of a Disney movie, it’s rooted in biology: The ethereal glow comes from tiny plankton.
Teddy Bear Cove is a popular spot for seeking out bioluminescence, but it can get rowdy during the summer months. That’s why taking an official tour can be helpful, as guides can get you after-hours access to lesscrowded spots. Organizations like Moondance Sea Kayak, Outdoor Odysseys, Discovery Sea Kayaks, and the Community Boating Center also offer bioluminescence tours throughout the summer.
These adorable fellas are familiar to shoreline junkies, as they’re sightable year-round from the coasts of the Salish Sea. Adults are between 5 to 6 feet in length, and 245–300 pounds. They generally are bluegray with darker speckles, and they spend time in the water eating up to 10% of their body weight per day, or wriggling about on rocky shores while they rest.
Tidepooling is an awesome way to turn a hike into a little marine biology learning excursion! When the tides go out, natural pools are left in rocky outcroppings and basins, and inside of these protective underwater valleys are bursts of life. Check the tides at the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Association website, then head out to Rosario Head in Deception Pass State Park to see small fish, crabs, urchins, sea stars, and more.
Clam digging can be a fun family day trip with a tasty end result. Around our inland sea shores, you’ll find native littleneck clams, Manila clams, butter clams, and horse clams, among some others! Before you head out to the shorelines at Birch Bay State Park, make sure you have your license, as everybody over the age of 15 in Washington needs a license to fish and dig clams.
The shellfish farms in our area encourage the growth of clams and oysters in their habitats, then harvest them for locals and beyond to enjoy. Where once the endemic Olympia oysters were overfished and their numbers decimated, now Eastern and Pacific oysters are bountiful and important parts of our aquaculture! To enjoy these little Puget Sound gems, you can visit Taylor Shellfish Farms locations in Seattle and Bow, or Drayton Harbor Oyster Co. in Blaine.
In 2022, participants in the CBC’s excursions even collected samples of the glowing plankton for use in a research project at Western Washington University. Despite how beloved these tiny plankton might be amongst Bellinghamsters, we’re still learning about their biology!
Some viewing tips: Bioluminescence is most visible well after dark during the summer months, namely July through September. While it’s easiest to spot on a new moon (meaning less light pollution), Tori Ayres of Dragonfly Kayak Tours says bioluminescence can be visible even when the moon is full.
