4 minute read

CONSTRUCT + ATTACH

CONSTRUCT SIDE POCKETS

use top slither, not full shape

Advertisement

GATHER

Side Pockets Side Panels (2 pieces) (2 pieces)

SUPPLIES

All-purpose Thread (x2 for Topstitching) Craft Clips

1. On the right side of both side pocket pieces, draw fold-to lines connecting the pairs of notches. Create a ½" double-turn hem at the top of each pocket by folding the raw edge to meet the first fold-to line and folding again to meet the second fold-to line. If working with waxed canvas, finger press the hems or use a steel fabric roller to flatten. Press non-waxed fabric with an iron. Note » These hems are folded to the right side so the topstitching thread faces out.

2. Pin or clip the hems in place. If you have a sew-in “I MADE THIS” label, this is a great place to add it! We recommend positioning the label 1 ³ /8" in from pocket’s side edge.

3. Using a topstitching needle and your preferred topstitching method (see page 10), edgestitch the hems down with an ¹ /8" seam allowance. Tip » An edgesti tch presser foot will help make a straight sti tch parallel to the edge of the fold. use top slither, not full shape zoom in

use top slither, not full shape zoom in

1 3 /8" ½"

Edgestitch

4. On the wrong side of one side pocket, draw a vertical line down the center. Then draw two more lines parallel to the first that are 1" out from either side of center. To add dimension to the side pocket, fold the two outer lines in to meet the center line and press, creating a box pleat. Use craft clips to hold the folds in place on either side of the top and bottom. The finished width of each fold should be ½". Repeat on the other side pocket. (See diagrams on next page.)

zoom in

Step 4

5. Place a side pocket right-side up on top of the right side of a side panel, aligning the bottom and side raw edges (hem should be face out). Tip » If the side edges don’t quite align, adjust the folded pocket fabric and re-clip.

6. Switch to one spool of all-purpose top thread. Sew the side pocket to the side panel along the sides and bottom using an ¹ /8" edgestitch.

7. Repeat steps 5–6 for the second side pocket and side panel.

S t e p s 5 - 6

ATTACH SIDE SNAPS

GATHER

Snap Tabs (2 pieces)

Snap Reinforcement Tabs (2 pieces)

Med. 3 /8" Tubular Rivets (4 pieces)

Line 24 Snap Eyelets (2 pieces) Line 24 Snap Studs (2 pieces) Side Panel / Pocket (2 pieces)

TOOLS

Tubular Rivet Peening Tool Mallet + Hard Surface Line 24 Snap Setter

1. Thread an eyelet through the center hole of a snap tab from the wrong side. Then, from the right side of the tab, place a stud onto the post.

2. Working on a hard surface, verti cally align the snap setter so its bottom point is resting in the center of the eyelet post. With the setter straight up and down, strike the setter with a mallet 3–5 times with medium force. When set correctly, the post will flatten and the snap will be secure. If the snap can spin at all, strike it again. Repeat steps 1 + 2 to for the second snap tab.

3. Thread two tubular rivets through the other two holes in the snap tab from the right side. Place the tab right-side up on top of the right side of one side panel, threading the rivet posts through the pair of pre-punched holes in the fabric. Tip » If at any point in this project you have trouble fitting a post into a leather hole, re-punch the hole or widen it using an awl.

SETTING LINE 24 SNAPS Find videos for how to set (and remove!) snaps on our blog.

Eyelet + Stud Setting

We're setting these now.

Cap + Socket Setting

We'll set these later.

4. Keeping the rivets in place, turn the fabric over and place a snap reinforcement tab right-side up onto the rivet posts from the wrong side, sandwiching the fabric in between.

5. To set the rivets, use a tubular rivet peening tool and a heavy, non-rubber mallet on top of a hard surface. Vertically align the peening tool with the first rivet and strike with the mallet, beginning with medium force and increasing force for a total of 8–12 strikes. When fully set, the rivet’s spokes should dig into the leather. Don’t be afraid to really hit it. Repeat for the second rivet.

Note » Tubular rivets should be struck more ti mes and with more force than Line 24 snaps. Take care to vertically align your setti ng tool over the post so everything is straight up and down before setting.

BAM! BAM!

6. Repeat steps 3–5 to attach the other snap tab to the other side panel.

SETTING TUBULAR RIVETS Find videos for how to set (and remove!) rivets on our blog.

NAY! Your tubular rivet is not fully set. Hit it a few more times, hard! YAY! Your rivet is fully set!

This article is from: