MAGAZINE
May 2010 // Issue *3
contents: P.06 INTERVIEW: GAV COLMAN
We caught up with the man who successfully defended his Open World title...
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P.6 Nias
Scoring one of the World’s best rights from the perspective of Chayne and Troy Simpson. Prepare to be blown away...
P.14 Baja Mañana?
Brad Colwell takes a trip South of the Border with the one and only Orange Kneeboarder.
P.20 SHAPERS: Dale Ponsford
The kneeboard shaper on his own path of evolution gives an insight in to his creations.
P.26 Porthleven
This past winter rocked the South coast of Cornwall. The kneelo crew were on it and it also threw up some other interesting perspectives on what is considered by some to be England’s best wave.
Cover shot and left: Chayne Simpson, locked and loaded at Nias. PICS: Troy Simpson
Graphic Design: Bryn Dampney Editorial: Duncan Jones, Bryn Dampney Contributing Photographers: Troy Simpson www.troysimpsonphoto.com Adam ‘Waka’ Williams Hannah Jones Elizabeth Akana www.hawaiianlines.com Dale Ponsford Chris Cockett Bob Gove Brad Colwell Mike Vos Jenny Mehlow
Contributing writer: Brad Colwell Cover/Contents pics: Troy Simpson Advertising Contact: Bryn Dampney bryn@kneelo.org Submissions and Contributions Contact: Bryn Dampney/Duncan Jones bryn@kneelo.org duncan@kneelo.org www.kernowkneelo.co.uk www.kneelo.org BIG THANKS TO ALL!!
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I
ssue 3, a lot later than hoped but with good reason! The arrival of my baby daughter, Elsie, last September has been the most mind bending incredible experience of my life so far and everything else has taken a bit of a back seat... The show must go on however; as you will see in these pages some of the World’s best have again kindly contributed their amazing images and time to keep this little publication moving forward and get the best in Kneeboarding out their for all to see. From the most stunning image and surfing combination from Chayne and Troy Simpson in Nias to our own UK shores via an Australian shaper who’s followed his own path and an exkneelo who still rides the tube on his knees, it’s all here and more and I hope more than anything the wait was worth it. For the first time this issue will be available in print. It will be pretty limited in numbers and we still need to work out the logistics but we feel it’s a worth while path to follow in documenting our way of riding waves. Of course there will have to be a cost involved but it will still be available to all for free in pdf format as this was part of the original ethos. Your feedback and comments are always appreciated and help us to move things forward in a positive light for Kneeboarders everywhere. Pass it on to all riders of surf craft and see if they pick up on the stoke. If talks I’ve had come to fruition, when we make it to number 4 the bar should rise again... Until next time, enjoy. The Kneelo Mag Crew.
Darren Akana clearing a path through the crowd. PIC: Elizabeth Akana
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Hey Dunc... I just discovered that the last time I typed this out it did not get sent, so here I go again. F**kin’ Computers!!!
Simpson All pics: Troy nes Jo Q’s: Duncan
Dunc: We heard through the kneelo grapevine that you guys had been on a trip and scored. How was Nias? Chayne: Nias was insane mate. Up there with the best waves I’ve ever surfed. I’d recommend the trip to anyone... Just let me know if you’re going though cause I’ll come too - ha. It’s an absolute mission to get to even from Australia but well worth it if it’s on. Dunc: You travel a lot with your brother. Must be good to have a travel buddy you know well. Especially one who’s a great water photographer? Chayne: Troy’s great to travel with cause he’s always super keen to surf. He’s become even better to have around lately though cause he loves taking photos almost as much as surfing... and he’s getting bloody good at it. Plus having known each other our whole lives we both know when we need some time out. But as you can see, we weren’t too bothered as it was more than worth the wait... Taking it to another level, this time below sea. Chayno off the bottom of a serious Nias wall.
Dunc: Knowing each other well and surfing together all your lives must help with the positioning and setting up for the water shots. Are you pleased with the results of the trip?
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Chayne: Really pleased with the results. The kid knows what he’s doing - that’s for sure. Although he has crushed a few barrels on me now - ha ha. He has got me pretty smashed a few times too cause he loves calling me into stupid closeouts so he can get the shot... always worth it in the end. Dunc: Any scrapes or narrow escapes on this trip? Chayne: Nothing to report. Maybe a few issues after eating... Dunc: Did you just stick around Lagundri Bay or go exploring? Chayne: It’s pretty hard to leave one of the best rights in the world and go exploring but we managed to get away a few times. There’s a semi secret right not too far away that has got to be one of the most perfect kneelo waves I’ve surfed. We hit that a few times
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That is “if 10/10... you like a steep
takeoff into a perfect barrel followed by a wall that just begs you to belt it.
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by ourselves before all the other crew at the village started to notice we were missing from the line-up and realised that we must have been getting waves somewhere else. Then we’d have a trail of people following us. Dunc: How’s the famous right hander as a kneelo wave? Chayne: 10/10... That is if you like a steep takeoff into a perfect barrel followed by a wall that just begs you to belt it.
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Dunc: Did you take special boards for the trip or just ride your standard set up? Chayne: Just rode my standard 5’8”s up to say five foot. Parksey made me a brand new 6’0” for the trip that I surfed when it got bigger. Its always scary going away with boards you’ve never ridden but they went great. Dunc: Looks like you scored some serious waves. Do
you do any special training in the build up to a trip like
Setting the line for
a long time. Oh, and watching an American dude get
that?
another perfect 10.
all edgy and go home with a hooker after the lads slipped a Viagra in his drink. Priceless.
Chayne: Is sinking beers classed as training? Dunc: You guys seem to be picking up the mission Dunc: Have you got a highlight of the trip?
that Simon started to show the world what riding a kneeboard is all about. What drives you in your surfing
Chayne: Watching Jamie O’Brien going crazy in 10ft
and what’s it about for you guys?
slabs was a highlight. That guy is a freak. I got a couple of solid barrels that will be in my memory for
Chayne: I just want surf the best I can, and have
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a bloody good time doing it. It’s funny that you mentioned Simon though because he pushes me to surf better and more often. I surf with him occasionally at home and he just blows my mind... I wanna surf like that. As for showing the world what Kneeboarding is all about, that’s why we make these little clips for YouTube. We have no other way to show people footage of kneelos doing their thing. Hopefully everyone enjoys them and don’t think I’m a tosser for flashing footage of myself around. Dunc: Sick trip! Where next? Chayne: I can’t stop thinking about Mexico. A nice two month adventure in Mex would be insane... My boss is gonna love it when I ask for more time off.
Belting the wall with precision.
want to surf the best I can, and “I just have a bloody good time doing it.� 13
Main: Dream come true. Below: Baja Norte. PICS: Bob Gove.
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“
Its a dawn patrol with the orange kneeboarder, and you’re invited.
Words: Brad Colwell
4:30 in the morning comes quickly when you get to bed too late. But when the surf’s supposed to be pumping in Baja I always manage to get my feet on the ground in time to meet up with Bob Gove in Old Town San Diego for the 5:00 AM rendezvous. One of the first times I tagged along our friend Randy Morris was running late and Bob started to quote the 15 minute rule, “If you’re not here within 15 minutes of the meeting time you’re outta luck!” Just then, Randy’s headlights appeared out of the dark. Within minutes he was loaded up, coffee-in-hand, and we were on I-5 South for the 20 minute drive to the border. The Blue Beast (as Bob affectionately refers to it) is his 2001 Ford F-350 diesel 4x4 double-cab, long bed pickup truck with a shell and full length roof rack. Of course when we want to poke some fun at Bob we use an alternative name for his ride that he just can’t stand, The Teal Mobile. The Beast serves Bob well as a general contractor but, its track record as a proven performer in sand and on the punishing roads of Baja is where its true value lies.
Once across the border into Mexico it’s an easy drive out to the beaches (Las Playas) where the Toll Road turns south towards Rosarito. Everyone who has ever ventured to Mexico knows of the smells, colors, and contrasts this dramatic country offers and the sense of adventure that they stir up. Baja Malibu is a punchy beach break that provides an excellent first look at the surf. For us this is usually only a five minute stop before heading further south down to Bob’s trailer in ‘Rito. Once at the trailer the decision is made, depending on what the swell and wind are doing, to keep heading south, stay at ‘Rito, or head back north to Baja Malibu. This page clockwise from left: Almost there. PIC: Brad Colwell Baja Norte reef. PIC: Jenny Mehlow. Food stop! PIC: Brad Colwell. Bob Gove filling up again. PIC: Brad Colwell.
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Below & RIght: Bob on a screamer. PICS: Mike Vos Bottom left: Bob on winning form. PIC Brad Colwell.
Most of my life I’ve been surfing great beachbreaks; Huntington, San Francisco, Blacks and all are challenging in their own way. Then there’s ‘Rito, a beachbreak which at size is raw, rugged, shifty, and punishing in a way that stands out when compared to the others. The best days are when high pressure has set up shop in the high deserts of the Great Basin east of California. The resulting offshore winds transform and elevate ‘Rito to a level that Bob describes as “on par with the best beachbreaks in the world, if not better”. I know that “the best” statements come with qualifiers and can provide opportunity for much debate but given his world surf travels and having had a trailer at ‘Rito since 1979 I’ll give him this one. One early morning last winter we pulled up to the Trailer and the waves were just going off. Offshore, big and powerful, with 2-3 second hangtime on the lips as these long walls just reeled off down the beach. While it was rideable, there was no channel and it just looked like too much work. So we went back up to Baja Malibu where we paddled out to some clean head high to overhead waves. Out in the lineup we saw our standup friend David Heatherington and as I described what we saw at ‘Rito I could see something twisted in his narrowing eyes. After he caught the next right and disappeared I knew what it was. He got back to ‘Rito as quick as he could for a solo session, but that’s David! I found it amazing how the size could be so different between those two spots which are only a few miles apart. After that day I really started to pay attention to the NOAA Wavewatch plots. The steep winter swells from greater than 305 degrees send consistent, powerful surf to Northern and Central California but bypass much of Southern California. In fact,
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on many days Blacks may only be shoulder to head-high while ‘Rito will be well overhead. The plots show how winter swell coming down past Point Conception will still wrap into Northern Baja despite some shadowing by San Miguel and Santa Rosa Islands (two of the five Channel Islands).
We have many choices for after-surf meals in Rosarito. We’ll go to Michoacan for their excellent sit down breakfasts or, if we’re not feeling like sitting down and being waited on, El Podor has the best curbside seafood in town. We can also get some Baja street tacos at Tacos El Poblano or find local tamales, a culinary treasure. Either way you can stuff yourself
for only five or six bucks as you reflect on the morning’s session. Various errands may include filling the propane tanks for half of what it would cost in San Diego, topping off water jugs for just pocket change with water purified by reverse osmosis, and filling up on more affordable diesel fuel. I truly enjoy Mexican culture and interacting with the locals who are always warm and welcoming. After breakfast we often return to the Trailer for some horseshoes and this is when the competitive spirits of Bob and Randy rise quickly to the surface. These guys talk smack the whole time and have the game to back it up. Last September Bob and I were paired against Rafael and Nate, two young standups who joined us that day. They didn’t stand a chance against two
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Here: Brad picking his line PIC: Bob Gove Below: Randy Morris enjoying a Baja point. PICS: Bob Gove Right Top: Bob Gove in the right spot. PIC: Leah Matthew Right: Brad off the bottom. PIC: Bob Gove
kneelos twice their age: we totally buried them!
The drug war is real. Because we live in San Diego we receive fairly frequent reports on local news stations or in the newspaper on a wide range of news regarding this unfortunate problem. In Mexico much of the violence is driven by the Drug Cartels competing against each other for control of the drug trade and, as law enforcement and the military have stepped up pressure, the Cartels have struck back in violent and brutal ways. The understandable drop in tourism has really hurt local merchants while resulting in empty line ups. A long time, ex-pat Baja Malibu homeowner/ surfer told me that he thought there are 90% less surfers showing up currently than what he was seeing a few years ago. And that’s one of the main draws of Baja…uncrowded surf. While it hurts to miss a few classic winter days at Blacks, it’s nice to not have to compete with the 150 other surfers that may be out. To surf Baja when it’s firing with just your friends, hooting and sharing waves, and pushing each other deeper leaves you with the best memories. The Border Crossing back into the US always serves as a topic of discussion. Depending on when you hit the Border the wait can be anywhere from 5 minutes to 3 hours. Traditionally ours was rarely less than 45 minutes. The “Hack” is basically cutting off the unsuspecting local or tourist next to you in order to get to the front of the line as quick as you can. Under no circumstances is it OK to get hacked! Of course Bob is equally adept at this move be it at the Border Crossing or at ‘Rito when there’s a tow-increw out spinning circles in the lineup, something he really
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despises. Sometimes the traffic can be so bad you end up seeing parts of Tijuana you never cared to, purely because of the Border Crossing gridlock. When the KSUSA Titles in December 2007 were rained out after just a few heats Bob, Randy and I made a Baja run and the return trip was the worst I have ever seen it. Although Bob insisted he was not lost the traffic forced him into streets seldom seen by US surfers. Sitting in the back seat I took in the choked chaos and imagined a new video game “The Streets of TJ” that would be rated T for Teen, at least. The US Customs and Border Protection Sentri Program, however, has really reduced our border crossing times. This Program allows travelers who are low security risk to cross in special designated lanes that move much quicker. Our typical wait now is rarely greater than 30 minutes. It has always been a game to try and guess the wait down to the minute. Bob and Randy still haven’t figured out my guesswork pattern and for now I’ll keep it that way. A “Sentri Run” is code for a midweek dawn patrol when you have to get into work for a 10:00 meeting and Randy’s got that one
wired! It’s just the lure of Baja that minimizes the logistics as you daydream of the next solid swell and perfect A-frame peaks up and down the beach.
After an epic south swell at the end of July the surf had been flat for weeks so I agreed to meet Bob for another Baja run in search of some rideable waves. This morning I arrived before Bob and figured he was right behind me. When it was obvious that Bob’s 15 minute rule was about to come into play I made myself comfortable in the back of my car, pulled out my phone and gave him a ring. As he answered with a sleepy “Hello?” I smiled and shouted back, “Bob, you’re late!” Since I had no choice but to wait that morning for Bob and The Beast my mind drifted forward to Fall and Winter. The air will chill, the water temperature will drop, and the
reefs and points south of ‘Rito will come alive again offering an expanded variety of surfing options….and I’ll be getting more frequent calls from Bob asking,
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Almost home... PIC: Brad Colwell
”
ampney Q’s: Bryn D onsford Pics: Dale P
Dale Ponsford
This issue we were lucky enough to get an insight in to a shaper who’s open minded thinking has led him to follow his own design path almost exclusively. From his early days at Friar Tuck to open ocean ski racing... When did you start shaping kneeboards and how did it come about? Dale: I got a job repairing dings with Oaks Surfboards in Victoria when I finished school, which naturally progressed into learning to shape. It was back in the days (showing my age) when a shaper actually had to learn the trade correctly. How long had you been shaping when you got involved at Friar Tuck? Dale: I had been shaping for about three years when I met Peter Ware, the original owner of Friar Tuck kneeboards, at a surfing competition and he asked me to come and work alongside him. Fortunately he saw my shaping potential and wanted me to help grow his business that he had just moved from Sydney to Byron bay. What were you mainly shaping at that time? Dale: Peter and I were mainly shaping four fins which were brand new to the market place and a new concept developed by Peter.
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Were you inspired to think outside of the box by your contemporaries? Dale: No not at all, the ‘contemporaries’ were going in a completely different direction to where Peter and I were heading at that time. You are known for your reverse curve shapes, when did you first become aware of them? Dale: When I was working for Friar Tuck it began. The ski tail that Friar Tuck did was a conservative view of where my shapes are today. My reverse curve shaping stemmed from this time. Was there a decisive moment when you knew it (reverse curve) was the direction you wanted to follow exclusively? Dale: No it just evolved from thinking outside the square and shaping lots of varieties of boards for myself. What did the shape achieve that made them stand out in your mind? Dale: Speed down the line was the standout, Changing from rail to rail was a positive and how the board could turn in a very short arc. It was very responsive and quick overall. There seems to be a core of underground riders in Oz that have caught on and swear by your shapes. Do you think there’s a particular reason the reverse curve hasn’t become more wide spread? Dale: Absolutely because most kneeboarders are hesitant to try something new. People become comfortable with what they have been riding and aren’t prepared to be adventurous. You’ve been described as the best kneeboard surfer/shaper to come out of Oz yet it appears you stay out of the kneeboard ‘mainstream’. Is that a conscious decision? Dale: Firstly, I would definitely nominate David Parkes as the best kneeboard surfer/shaper to
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“...most kneeboarders are hesitant to try something new. People become comfortable with what they have been riding and aren’t prepared to be adventurous.”
Dale: Probably going from the slab single fin to the three and four fin designs and then a natural progression to outline and bottom curves. Do you think there will be any sort of breakthrough in board design in the near future? Dale: I don’t think so because a lot of surfer/shapers aren’t willing to push the boundaries of design and shapers are looking at surfers for inspiration and not themselves. What gives you the most enjoyment from shaping? Dale: Creating something new and innovative that will suit the person it was designed for and having
come out of Oz. Albert Whiteman, who is no longer with us, is also another great surfer/shaper. I’ve been surfing contests since I was 14 and life just progresses. I have developed an interest in ocean ski racing and training for the Molokai and other world events. I still love to get out on my board and am passionate about the ocean. Do you think it is important that the kneeboard
them call me and tell me what a great time they had on it. Do you have an all time favourite board? Dale: No I have many favourite boards and each one has sentimental value and represents a certain part of my life/career
surfer/shaper tradition continues?
Who is your all time favourite kneelo and why?
Dale: Yes definitely but I would love to see the
Dale: I think there has been many great
industry stick to its roots and traditional methods of shaping. Unfortunately, Im old school though and shaping machines seem to be the way of the future which means innovation is virtually dead. Which kneeboard shapers past or present stand out to you? Dale: David Parkes. Albert Wiseman, Neil Luke.
kneeboarders. Peter Crawford was definitely a cool surfer. Simon Farrer, Neil Luke, Michael Novakov. David Parkes. Are there any young kneelos that you shape for regularly? Dale: No young guys at this time.
Peter Ware and John Ware.
Do you think kneeboarding has a healthy future?
Was there a particular time of kneeboard design
Dale: I think competitions on a world wide scale are
you feel was most important? Dale: When Peter had Friar Tuck kneeboards he was the most innovative shaper in the world. He was always the leader not the follower. What has been the biggest positive design change in your opinion?
more alive than ever. Having the World Titles at Phillip Island will be an asset to the Australian scene. You’re known for your surfing as well as i’ve already mentioned. How would you define your perfect session? Dale: Surfing Forries (central Coast of NSW) at 8 – 10 foot with my best mate Pino.
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Dale Ponsfo
Do you think contests are important and enjoy competing? Dale: Yes very important it makes surfers push the limits of their own ability and boards. I do enjoy
Dale putting it in to practice,
What are your plans for the coming year?
scalping a Phillip Island wall good and proper. PIC: Waka
Dale: Playing with channels and changers, e.g. flyers, in ski tail outlines.
competing especially in Phillip Island where the waves are good.
Thanks for taking the time to do this interview Dale and we look forward to seeing where your design
Is there anything new you’re working on at the moment? Dale: Yes playing around at the moment with channels and bottom curves.
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evolution leads!
ord
Right: Chris Cockett, evening perfection. PIC: David Parkes
E
ngland’s best wave? Some would argue it is and
This past winter the Bay of Biscay woke up,
some would argue it isn’t. My view is that it‘s
pummelling the south coast with swell and Porthleven
capable of being when the wind and swell direction
reminded us of what it can do.
are right. Traditionally it was always considered to be the best but times have changed in English surfing
For those who are unfamiliar with the Cornish surfing
and nowadays there are many spots that vie for the
scene, Porthleven is a fishing village on the south
top spot. These include waves in the North East,
coast of the county. There’s actually more than one
secret slabs on hidden parts of the Cornish coast and
break in the village and the pressures of modern
of course North Cornwall’s most famous lefthander,
surfing means all the peaks have their dedicated
Milook.
followers. The main peak is to the right of the harbour entrance and is a left and a right. Just down from that is Wrestles – named after the Cornish Wrestling field that overlooks it. It’s mainly a left but when the swell direction is spot on produces a tasty righthander as
Main: Karl Ward, off the bottom the othewr side of the
well. Continue on to the west and there are numerous other peaks which each have their day. On the other
pack.
side of the harbour entrance is the jacking slab known
PIC: Hannah
as Graveyards. This one tends to be the haunt of
Far Left: Duncan Jones wraps it back.
bodyboarders on the whole, unless the main peak’s not on.
PIC: Hannah
South swell after south swell lined up with north Left: Classic view of harbour by evening light. PIC: Dave Parkes
easterly winds gave us an seemingly endless run of great days. The reef showed its many moods through the different swells. From perfect chandelier cylinders
Right: A young David Parkes scored Porthleven all time during this visit. PIC: Chris Cockett.
to thick slabbing guillotines, the reef had many moods and claimed many boards. Needless to say the rumbling swells down south didn’t go unnoticed and attracted the full attention of the UK surf scene.
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Car loads descended on the quiet fishing village. Lenses lined the harbour all looking for the fresh angle, the next cover shot and despite the frostbiteinducing conditions, multiple sessions were put in as surfers gorged on the waves and chased that perfect cover shot to keep their sponsors happy. Amongst all of this there were a healthy number of kneeboarders putting in their time and hooking in to their share of the stoke. None of us made any covers but Matthew ‘Dimmer’ Deaves did get a shot in mainstream British surf mag, as did Richard ‘Huey’ Hewitt. Dimmer’s was a surfing shot but Huey’s was rather more dramatic - close up of blood dripping down his face from a nasty looking cut above his eye after a close encounter with the reef (caused by a dropin)...
Karl Ward parking it PICS: Hannah
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O
nce a Kneeboarder, always a… T
his tasty little sequence was taken recently at Porthleven and features surfer Robin Kent guiding his stand up board through the inside section on his knees. Robin was once well known for his knee-riding, even representing Britian at the ISA Worlds on one occasion. From what I hear his attack always was fairly progressive and he regularly landed airs and as well as this, he was a great barrel rider. Then one day he put aside his kneeboard and started riding on his feet. I wouldn’t say I know him but I did used to surf around his regular haunts and as a kneeboarder was regularly told of his reasons for quitting by various stand up friends. Over the years I’ve heard a number of stories. The first involves a doctor telling him to stop because all that aerial landing without a deck pad had damaged his knees beyond repair. Another reason given is that once while surfing small Nias he found he couldn’t generate any speed on his knees so he chucked his flippers up on the reef and never looked back. And still another I’ve been told is that he switched over for the sponsorship and the money offered by stand up surfing. Like I said I don’t actually know why he stopped as I’ve never asked him. What I do know is that riding stand up, he’s carved a niche for himself as a barrel rider and slab charger which culminated in Rip Curls Searching for Isolation project. Robin was sent off along with photographer Mickey Smith to seek out the thickest waves they could find in the North Atlantic for a series of magazine articles. Some of the results can be seen on line here - www.mickeysmith.co.uk. Nowadays Robin’s stand-up exposure has quietened down a bit although he’s still well known for his barrel riding and will usually feature in the line up when Porthleven or his local St.Agnes turns on. What prompted this little piece was the recent session that produced these pictures. On this day on pretty much every wave Robin rode he set up the barrel on his knees. I have no idea if this was for my benefit or purely a functional thing. I like to think seeing another kneelo in the line up reminded him of his routes and the unique perspective that shooting the tube on your knees gives. …a Kneeboarder.
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PICS: Hannah
Duncan Jones carefully picking his line in to a wintery Porthleven tunnel. PIC: Hannah
Drop us a line, post on a forum, get in touch and give us your thoughts.
The kneeboard World is so diverse and colourful there’s always an interesting thought to pass on or words to be said...
Let’s keep moving forward in which ever direction suits you. Fish or thruster, quad or tri.
Just keep it on your knees!
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www.kernowkneelo.co.uk www.kneelo.org www.ksusa.org www.troysimpsonphoto.com www.hawaiianlines.com