KNEON —Welcome to the fifth issue celebrating the famed personality, the glam that supposedly comes with it, and everything ‘it’ in between. Featuring Tino Criso, Ira Chernova, Amie Milne, The Tallest Man on Earth, Ben Giles, Rebekah Campbell and more.
5 Celebrity
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katja kremenic for
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Editorial
I remember my first fascination/obsessions with a famous person: Avril Lavigne in the 4th grade. Her identity was so enthralling, the never-ending supply of her images on Google addicting, and her ‘look’ with the tie and raccoon eyes so easily imitable that it was easy to trick myself into believing that I could one day be as ‘famous’ as her. I would talk like her (taking the ‘eh’ to a whole new level) and play her songs on my Walkman to school (can you tell I’m a 90s kid yet?) and everywhere else. Why is this worship of someone known to the public such a Thing though? What is the difference between an individual and an Individual? If you think about it, it’s on the fine line between admiration and stalking. As a so-called ‘celebrity,’ people would read about you, critique what you wore to brunch with Ryan Reynolds/Gosling, and judge you through and through with only basic and biased knowledge provided by some skanky gossip magazine. This fifth issue explores this idea of the famed identity, that person who everyone knows of but not necessarily knows. Pity, disgust, love, jealousy... isn’t it weird that we can feel strongly and so opinionatedly about people we’ve never met before and will probably never meet? Issue 05 ‘Celebrity’ is a social observation and visual comparison. Enjoy the magnification.
VICTORIA JIN
Editor-In-Chief
Both covers shot by Daniel Lehenbauer featuring Gracie @ Elite London 3
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What’s in this issue issue 05
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Masthead KNEON The magazine about creative youth est. 2010 | Autumn 2012 now issue 05
Founder & Editor-In-Chief Victoria Jin
Arts Editor
Julia Karpova
Advertising enquiries Contact
info@kneon-magazine.com www.kneon-magazine.com www.facebook.com/kneonmag All content Š 2012 KNEON Magazine
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Artwork by Sang W.F. Kim
victoria@kneon-magazine.com
Contributors
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Photographers
Daniel Lehenbauer, Katja Kremenic, Amie Milne, Rebekah Campbell, Giulia Bersani, Tamara Pichler, Sam Tiefenrausch, Tino Criso, Laurent K, Alexandra Cameron, Alina Negoita, Clarens Tyson, Hayley Benoit, Lindsey L33, CDDM, Bethany Grace, Vins Baratta, Yuji Watanabe, Fanny Schlichter
Thanks to
Lauren Ericson, Rebecca Vitartas, Merton Muaremii, Julia Karpova, Ben Giles, Simon Winkelmueller, Jamie Walz, Mark Stephen Baigent, Magdalena Wolan, Sang W.F. Kim, Marta-Emilia Bona, Maela Leporati, Melissa Bakth, Jade J., Maud Dupuy
Melissa Bakth
Hometown London Occupation Director of Squash Banana Design Agency & Love My Grub Education Graduate of Chelsea College of Art and Design & Central St Martins ‘Celebrity’ Too much make up, too high-a-heel, too low-an-IQ. Having said that, love me a
good reality TV show.
Tell us about your work in this issue ‘Pie & Mash’ is all about the combination of Music and Design. It salutes ten albums of this year, who have got those 4 c’s- concept, colour, composition, and exe‘c’ution, spot on. Some things you enjoy about life Anything to do with food, discovering well drawn glyphs, people saying ‘thank you’ Website/blog link www.squashbanana.co.uk, www.lovemygrub.blogspot.com
Tino Criso
AGe 22 Hometown A small town in the center of Germany Occupation Photographer Currently based in Hamburg, Germany ‘Celebrity’ Renown Person Tell us about your work in this issue Shot an urban fashion editorial starring
Therese Fischer
Some things you enjoy about life Creativity Website/blog link www.tinocriso.com, www.tinocriso.tumblr.com
Giulia Bersani
AGe 20 Hometown Milano Occupation Student, photographer ‘Celebrity’ It is just something to talk about, a reference point for the dialogue between two
or more people with different experiences. Personally, I don’t like gossip. Tell us about your work in this issue I have to thank the fantastic team. We met some problems when Victoria asked us to censure some of the photos. We didn’t want the “classical” censure on them, so we started again from zero, worked with the original images, reinforcing the theme of “celebrity”. Some things you enjoy about life My cat. And photography, of course. And observing, feeling and thinking. Website/blog link www.facebook.com/GiuliaBersaniPhotography
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bet you know where we could go Ksubi mesh tank, Cue silk organiza skirt 8
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photographed by Amie Milne featuring Lauren Ericson at London mgt group, with styling by Rebecca Vitartas, and beauty by Merton Muaremii 9
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Nicola Finetti jacket, Story By Tang white skirt
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Camilla and Marc top, Shakuhachi d-ring deluxe scoop hem skirt
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Lover plume top, Cue check pants, Wittner shoes, Stylist’s own earrings
Willow pixel cutout body suit, A Part of Me spin me around skirt, Maslo jewelry copper necklace
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A Part of Me lotta dress, Maslo Jewelry copper necklace
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A Part of Me dancing with burglars leather shirt (worn inside out), Zara dress (worn as top), Zara skirt, Wittner shoes, Stylist’s own ring
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PLAY YOUNG SMILE
Interviews & artist photos
Julia Karpova 16
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Artwork by Sang W.F. Kim
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er. series rvations
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Born 1993, Kingston-Upon Thames; Living and working in Hoxton, London.
Interview & artist portrait Julia Karpova
Darius G. Rodrigues
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CONTROL: Mixed media on card. Series of 4 works mapping ‘a personal struggle’.
How would you describe your style? I work in two extremes. Some of my works are minimally presented, meticulously developed concepts, and some are expressed without conscious thought at all. In my work I rarely try to represent something that already exists: in my opinion, this contradicts the exact function of the artist - to create rather than copy and to express truth not taste. However I believe intention is more important than style. My intention is not always to create something aesthetically pleasing but something that has an impact and something that expresses my inner need. I continually intend to create work through which a viewer can connect to my reality, and to create work that sustains conversations; that holds itself both in and beyond our time.
How does it feel to have your films premiering internationally?
It’s exciting. Anyone who says they don’t enjoy recognition is lying. It looks great on paper but the feedback is more important to me. I have high standards and am always looking to better myself.
What are you trying to communicate through your films? There is no overarching message I’m trying to communicate through my films. FILLETS was a celebration of the carnivalesque whilst also attempting to make the intangible (dream) tangible. BLUE SUNSHINE was a social experiment literally asking people to consider something greater than themselves, to question the value of their existence.
What would you say is the most challenging thing about being a young artist?
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FILLETS: Surrealist silent short film on Super 8mm. FILLETS is a reaction to the limited logic of our conscious reality, redefining our awareness of the familiar and extracting its queerness. Through the seemingly absurd yet familiar logic and sequencing of dreams, the film explores the volatile surfacing of unconscious desire. Has been screened in South Africa and London, ahead of features such as Prometheus and Moonrise Kingdom.
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B-15J. Digital collage, 2012. From the series ‘Shave the World’
Without real physical ties nor economic realities, our only responsibility is to our art and we must be greedy, selfish and engross ourselves in our work whilst our development is so fertile. The hardest thing is not having enough time. As artists we are priests of beauty and so we must be strictly and wholly dedicated to it. There is also the fact that there are so many equally talented and passionate young artists in competition with each other.
Do you think it has become easier to get recognition now that everyone has access to the Internet? It depends from whom. Yes; it is easier to get ‘digital recognition’ from friends, family and to get feedback; but in terms of curators, collectors, whilst the Internet might make your work more accessible, it does not make success any easier. Some people think by posting something on the Internet they can become an instant success because they have thousands of ‘friends’ or ‘followers’ but success requires mutual investment of effort. ‘Likes’ on Facebook and ‘reblogs’ on Tumblr are forms of recognition, but they are shallow.
I am travelling to Berlin, Dusseldorf and Munich to see the academies over there. I’m then spending four weeks each in Jamaica and Iceland where I’m currently applying for residencies. From there I’ll either return to London or move to Germany to study Fine Art starting in 2014.
Do you have a recurring dream? I used to dream I’d had children that were actually salmon fillets
and eventually I ate them.
What can’t you live without? My eyes.
The theme of this issue is ‘celebrity’ what does this word mean to you? Empty fame. Short-term, cosmetic, candy-floss recognition. It means nothing to me.
What do you plan on doing after the foundation course?
Tube Drawings: Pen on paper. ‘In Bed’ two drawings from the series ‘Tube Drawings’ expressive observations drawn on the Northern Line.
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18 years young | South Korean | Grew up in South West London.
Sang Woo
Franco Kim
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‘Altered States: Identity I’. Collage. 2012
‘Altered States: Identity II’. Collage. 2012
“I want to be an artist. I will be an artist.
G YOUTN T S I AR URE FEAT
I am an artist.” 23
What’s it like being a young artist in London? Since starting at Central Saint Martins and starting my new life as an ‘artist’ – it really is a dream come true; a dream that I never realized I had. I don’t think I would want to be anywhere else in the world at the moment – the people, the opportunities and the environment is just what I need as a young, developing artist, to start dreaming bigger dreams for the future artist that is in me.
What do you think is most important as a young aspiring artist? I feel like being open-minded is key to being a young aspiring artist. Me, being obsessive about painting, portraits in particular, it was difficult to say anything else apart from this was ‘art’. I feel that being able to try out new things with a clear mind is crucial to exploring yourself as an artist – battling your imagination and enhancing your creativity. Being able to look at anything differently with a variety of options and thoughts; I feel like this is the way forward.
How would you describe your work in 3 words? Decide for yourself.
Where do you see yourself ideally in ten years? Living another dream that I never realized I had – which could be anything. I wouldn’t know. I’m not too fond of looking into the future and the past. I don’t think it is that important. I’ve never really dwelled on the past or worried about my future hence the reason why I tend not to think about it.
When did you decide to study art and how? It was a decision which was always decided since I can remember, but I never told my parents and actually applied for a different course. It was difficult because my parents felt - and still feel - that Fine Art is not a safe ‘job’. My parents being against my true path, it required me to prove to them that it is worth taking the risk with me and letting me do something that I love. In some respects, I guess I am glad that my parents were against my decision – it has made me more committed to my work and. My work has become considerably stronger. To me, deciding to take on art is not for a job: it’s for the lifestyle. Till today I cannot believe I am actually pursuing a life in something I truly love.
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‘Altered States’. Collage transferred onto wood, acrylic. 2012.
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‘Altered States: Identity III, Puzzled’ (3/3). Triptych collaboration with Darius Gabriel Rodriquez. Collage, 2012
YOUNG ARTIST FEATURE ‘Etching of Skull’. 2012
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You study at CSM, can you tell us a bit about that? It’s different from what I expected. One main thing I’ve learnt here is that being narrowminded gets you nowhere. After becoming more open-minded, I have received a diverse palette for my ideas and imagination. Comparing my work from before CSM and now, you can definitely tell that I have learnt and taken on this new mindset I’ve adopted: to challenge and to explore myself as an ‘artist’. The environment is also a really healthy atmosphere for young artists: to discuss, critique and create art amongst people that want to do the same thing as you do, whereas in the past, nobody really wanted to communicate so much. At least it’s been so for me.
How do you think the internet has changed art? I suppose it’s changed art in terms of popularity. Use of blogs, websites and the availability of information on the internet…it’s all crazy. More people can find out about art and artists with just a click of a button. I use Tumblr as my way of promoting my work, and also to have a history of it. It’s quite a commercial blogging site renowned for its artistic and unique side to the blogging experience – which I have taken advantage to get my work out there.
You did an internship with PRADA, what did you learn from that experience?
‘Me, Head’. Plaster and stone. 2012
I learnt that the fashion industry can be just as ugly as it can be beautiful. Don’t get me wrong, it was possibly one of the greatest
‘Mr. Francis Portrait’. Oil on canvas, 42 x 32 in
Sketch of Max
experiences in my life but also one of the toughest too. I worked in the public relations and advertising team, something I had experience in due to a short spell work experience at Salvatore Ferragamo in the same area, which is also the reason behind how I got this priceless internship at Prada. I also discovered the job of fashion editor, that I knew never existed – someone who organizes everything from the writing, theme, concept, clothing/brands, model, photographer for a shoot and an article. An essential skill is being able to socialize and network: being able to learn this skill of networking, because the public relations is a sector where networking is central, is something I will cherish for the rest of my life.
The theme of this issue is ‘celebrity’ what does this word mean to you? I think a celebrity is someone who is in the public’s eye constantly. This could be because of the wrong reasons. I mean, in terms of art, you could say there are celebrity artists such as Damien Hirst, Tracey Emin and Ai Wei Wei etc. But I don’t think I could say what ‘celebrity’ truly means unless I become one. But do I want to be one? I don’t know.
‘Fall’. Ink on canvas, 2011. 27
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A girl in her head. photographer Rebekah Campbell model Halle Saxon Gaines illustrator Ben Giles styling and wardrobe Charm School Vintage hair and makeup Rebekah Campbell
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tough
as i am Photographed by Giulia Bersani Model, Ilaria Pozzi Styling, Irene Ghillani & Prisca Maizzi Make up, Roberta Cioli 37
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1. Firework print tee Paul&Joe (seen at Peek&Cloppenburg), Leather shorties Diesel Black Gold, Socks Item m6 2. Digital print blanket Meshit 3. Black longsleeve jumper Max Mara (seen at Peek/Cloppenburg), Pants with drapery detailing Halston Heritage, Long leather sleeves Nina Peter
Bernd Serafin Thaler
photography Tamara Pichler | Ega did it! stylist Simon Winkelmueller hair and make-up Ina Maurer model Marlene
4. Striped midi dress Alice&Olivia (seen at Steffl District 1), Shades Max Mara
5. Black tube dress J Brand, Black turtle
neck jumper Hugo Boss (seen at Steffl Distict 1), Maxi shades Marc Jacobs
Comfort or appearance? Definitely appearance! Nobody is looking at a girl wearing orthopaedic shoes. Comfortable shoes decline the foot muscles. Whether orthopaedic shoes or high heels are good for the body but you have to decide: would you like for somebody to look at you or would you rather be an ugly duckling?
What makes girls in heels so attractive? Her long legs and her silhouette, which becomes more curvy.
List three things on your to-do list. Preparing an interview for Puls4, holidays, tidying out my flat
Best song to lose yourself to. I actually don’t have a favorite song. I’m working best with “Kronehit”. It became a ritual in the shoe-class at Hetzendorf.
What’s a misconception that people have about designers? Why do you create? Because I love shoes - it’s an addiction! Creating and making shoes is more than just a hobby for me, I can’t explain it. It’s my life. I love to work with the material leather, I love small leather goods…it’s natural, exclusive and luxurious.
You focus a lot on women’s avantgarde shoes - what’s the most important aspect about a pair of heels?
I don’t care about such things.
What’s the ideal image of yourself in 10 years? Where do you hope to be? I hope that I’ll have my own atelier and own store and able to live from my “hobby”... And I hope that I won’t get wrinkles or I’ll try everything to avoid them!
There are two important aspects: firstly, technical: the most important thing about a high heel is it’s bone structure (insole, platform and heel). Secondly, design: that depends on inspiration. 45
Camo & Krooked Their names have exploded from within the Vienna Drum and Bass scene into an international spectacle: Reinhard Rietsch (Camo) and Markus Wagner (Krooked) formed as a power duo in 2007 and have been ferociously beat-cooking ever since. 2010 saw them being signed to Hospital Records, joining the likes of Netsky and High Contrast. 2011 saw the release of their first album ‘Cross the Line’, released with 14 soulful and sultry tracks, dipping in and out of pools of dubstep, drumstep and electrohouse. Now, in 2012, we see them at Edinburgh’s Cabaret Voltaire amidst their UK, Europe and North American tours. KNEON caught up with the two charming lads from Oesterreich in the Scottish capital.
interview Victoria Jin photos sam tiefenrausch film assistant JAMIE WALz 46
“We want to concentrate on our own thing; things that haven’t been done, things we haven’t done. Otherwise you’ll just follow the same route everyone does.” VJ—How is Edinburgh’s scene compared to Vienna? Reini Rietsch—Overall, Edinburgh is smaller. First time we came here we played at Bongo Club, which was already quite good, but I think tonight will be much better. The club already looks very packed and the people very motivated, so we can’t wait to play. Overall, drum and bass people seem to be more or less the same: students, quite nice people. We’ve just been to Tokyo. The people have been…I mean, their faces look different, but deep inside they are the same people.
VJ—Saying that, what is the energy of your crowds like? RR—The energy is quite similar as well. It’s in the crowd rather than in the DJ. It’s actually our ‘homework’ to convert the energy of the crowd. That’s sometimes harder, sometimes easier - depends on how big the club is, how full the club is, how far you are
away from the crowd, how well you can connect with them. Sometimes we even grab the microphone…it doesn’t actually matter where you are, because we let the music speak and the power comes in itself.
VJ—Last year you won three awards at the Drum and Bass Arena Awards. Can you reinact your expressions when you won? RR—We were both very happy. We were nominated for four awards, and thought that if we won just one of them, we’d be really happy about it. The first one was for the Best Video or something, we thought ‘oh nice…’ [Reini and Markus fistbump each other with smug expressions] Markus Wagner—We were quite drunk so I can’t really remember. RR—Especially in this category, we
were so surprised about it. MW—There was one video by Noisier, it must have cost them a fortune to make. It’s pretty good. But I think ours was more fun so it attracted more people. So we were really surprised about this one. Actually, that was the one we thought we’d get the least. The reaction was like, ‘omg just put a big smile on your face’. RR—But then we kept winning the other awards, so by the last one it was kind of awkward. There were so many other artists wanting to win them, and we took a couple of them, but it was a good year for us. It’s nice to see that the people are appreciating what we’re doing. That’s a big thing for us.
VJ—You started officially in 2007, and you got signed to Hospital Records in 2010. What has been a really important defining moment apart from this signing? 47
RR—We started earlier in 2002, but teamed up in 2007, stopped our solo careers and started Camo & Krooked. That was actually the most important step. Then tune after tune got released and people seemed liked it. The first album - Above and Beyond - followed by some remixes were all big parts in the building up of our names. RR—I remember we did a podcast for drum and bass Arena. That was in 2008 when there were all these new mixes that people had never heard before. I think that was what really put us on the map. All the international drum and bass DJs started begging us for tunes. And they started playing them so that’s how we got all that international support. ‘Skyline’ ‘Time ticking away’… setting minimalistic standards in drum and bass. We always wanted to turn away from the dark side of drum and bass, to bring more happy faces, because it’s been really moody and everything. And we aren’t moody people at all - we want to see happy faces where we go!
VJ—And now onto a more non-music related topic: if you were both in a movie, who play your love interests? RR—That one with the blonde quite short hair. I can’t remember any names. 48
KNEON [A coule minutes follow and Reini tries desperately to think of the actresses’ name while brushing away guesses of ‘Anne Hathaway’ and ‘Niki Minaj’] MW—My girlfriend. You should say that to, so when she listens to it… RR—Yeah. I meant my girlfriend.
VJ—If you had to choose one of these three to clean first, which one would it be? 1) Your room 2)Your Desk 3) Your car RR—It depends on what’s on the desk. But the desk is in the room too… it’s still got to be the desk. The computer’s there, you know it! MW—Exactly, the computer is the most important thing so the desk it is.
VJ—If you could enforce any law in Austria, what would it be? RR—I would say a law for more respect for more people. But it’s hard to enforce that personally. People should treat each other with more respect, no matter where they’re from. MW—They should put every politician on a lie detector. RR—Yeah that’s a good one. MW—So when they talk bullshit, you know. RR—Or make every hobo wear wifi modem. That’s happening in the USA. MW—It’s not a law, but it’s an idea happening in Texas. They offer homeless people to wear a wireless modem around the neck, so when they walk around asking for money, you have the option to log onto them. Could be a new app. RR—’Where’s the next hobo?’
VJ—If you had to be sorted into Harry Potter houses, which ones would you be in? RR—We’d be the good one, so the Harry Potter one. The one that’s not Slytherin.
VJ—Can you come up with three uses of the stapler without any staples inside? [A silent of serious contemplation ensues] RR—it’s quite useless without it. MW—A fashion accesoire around the neck, maybe? You can also use it as a percussion machine. Or if you’re a professional fly-catcher you can catch flies [Imitates a fly catcher snapping ferosciously in the air] RR—Maybe you can eat with it as well. Following this outflow of innovation, everyone moves on to talk about the development of music. Eminem and some rapping might have come up. RR—overall, the music is changing very fast; trends are changing very fast, and we try not to follow any trends. We evolve our own style, because so many people are just following the latest trends, and they’re forgetting where they’re from. MW—The reason people say it’s so competitive, is because their attention spans are getting shorter. We skip everything on the internet, we skip through the irrelevant and have to realise we can’t skip things in real life. On the radio, they just jump to the drop, the main tune. So people have to put as much interesting stuff into a tune, so it becomes overproduced. We want to concentrate on our own thing; things that haven’t been done, things we haven’t done. Otherwise you’ll just follow the same route everyone does.
VJ—The last question: Can you tell us a bit about your set for tonight? MW—We’re going to play a lot of our own stuff of course, some specials, bootlegs, a new Michael Jackson bootleg. It’s stuff we like and that we think is good. RR—90% is drum and bass. We started a year ago, we played 5-10 minutes of dub step. But now its a mix between drum and bass and drum step. Keeping people excited and motivated.
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You’ve probably seen these intensely sensational snapshots by Ira Chernova around the internet. Her works are works of art, purely unreal happenings that seem to have taken place in a sinister utopia. Originally from Moscow but currently based in New York, Ira creates a spirit, a surreal point of view that staggers, frightens and enlightens.
Ira Chernova interview Victoria Jin 51
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Who is Ira Chernova? Person
How old do you feel? Younger than I am.
Your photos seem like screenshots of emotional scenes from sci-fi movies. Tell me about these worlds that you create; what kind of story are you trying to tell? I photograph what I would enjoy in a visual or artistic sense. No need to be looking for anything behind the devil styling. Those all are just different seasons, changes of mood.
What would the ideal world for you be? Make what is surrounding you ideal.
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How would you start photographing someone you’ve never met? I shoot mostly models so 90% of the time it’s somebody I’ve never met. Just point and shoot.
Visual expression is evidently important to you – both in your photography and your tattoos. What makes the visual so powerful? It’s what we see. For me, it’s the most important of all senses.
Given the chance to shoot absolutely anyone, who and where would it be? Jack White – I would love to take polaroids of him. Actually most known actors and musicians would be interesting to work with.
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Ira Chernova
photographed by Sam Hessamian
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Would you rather have a beautiful photo or a unique photo? Beauty grows out of unique most of the time.
Facebook, Tumblr… social media plays a dramatic role these days in the building up of a creative. How have these sites influenced your work? It gives an international access to what you do, so I can’t complain about it.
What excites you? Life
As a model, what kind of photographer are you looking forwards to working with? Anybody who sees things differently.
What’s next for you? Exploring my work.
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It’s choice, not chances.
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by Tino Criso featuring Therese Fischer of M4 Models
H&M Beanie Flying A JACKET Sopopular SHIRT
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Sopopular shirt
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Vintage pullover, Vans beanie
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Vintage Germany Army Coat
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H&M Shirt Topshop Shorts Din Sko Boots
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Vintage Pullover Vans Beanie
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New Era/Raiders CAP, LEVI’S VEST
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A STUDY OF THE NOTION OF
IN VIENNA text by Mark Stephen Baigent typography by Stefano Agabio 70
“Welcome, could I please have your name for the guest list please.” A young woman nonchalantly asks the people in line while flipping through a chart under the table in a bored way. This is in front of some restaurant that is supposedly the ‘new hot shit’ in town. Her face gets more perturbed as she flips through sheet after sheet, unable to find the name of a particular guest, who is on the other hand becoming slightly unsettled. Through the queue, there is angry grunting, whispering and gossiping.
Photo by Lindsey L33
“She must be new at this,” a fashion editor of some daily newspaper says to her plus one. “I actually have better things to do but I’m just here for the free drinks” can be heard
from another important guest who is blocked behind my view, hidden by a drag queen whose bordello pumps make her just about two meters tall. “I’m so sorry sir, but I can’t seem to find your name on the…” miss Guest List starts to mumble, but is interrupted as she gets pulled away by a young and fierce-looking woman in a white shoulder cut blazer with Thomas Sabo bling on her ears and one of those horrible Alexander McQueen scarves with the black skulls on. She goes: “I’m sorry, here you,” and hands over two golden wristbands for the open bar area and a glass of champagne to try to soften up the now very pissed off guest who doesn’t even look at her. After the guest goes in, she turns to the girl doing the guest list and shakes her hands. “This cannot happen! Didn’t you know what that was? I can’t let you be in charge of
this if you can’t even pinpoint the celebrities…I told you to learn the list by heart and to not even think twice about certain invitees’. The girl in response just nods and apologizes. Welcome, my dear readers, to Vienna where everybody thinks they are somebody. It’s a hard place for a newbie, a nobody, where the way to the top if you wanna rock and roll will be steep and hard indeed. Today is your lucky day. I will share with you some insider exclusive information about what it takes to survive and really come out alive within the frenzy of flashing cameras in Vienna. Let’s start from the beginning: to become a ‘celebrity’ in Austria – Vienna to be more specific – it’s all about how you sell yourself to the right people. Two examples are illustrated below: A young girl moves to Vienna from the countryside. She just got a new job in a cool new boutique that just opened up on the main shopping street downtown. She has no contacts or friends in the city. Her only brownie points come from her ‘look’, and her personality. Back home she was the first person you recognised when entering a room and the last person you’d have the guts to talk to, because she’s so out of your league. And she’s grown accustomed to this kind of
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“One thing leads to another and *wham* she becomes the fashion editor of a great fashion magazine – all thanks to her social skills and looks” attention. But will it still be the same in this new city? Let’s have a look at her prospects. The boutique she’s working at really is the new ‘it’ place to buy your overpriced clothes, meaning that everyone will go there and everyone will know about who works there. Stylists, photographers, editors, it-girls, boys, ‘hot shit’ applied arts university students and so on. This is where her look comes in. Every time she walks into a club, people will see her as that cute stylish girl from the shop where they bought their cottonspandex tube dress, and they’ll want to talk with her. I don’t know how to describe these people better than as lemmings: all following the first one and wanting to be the first in line. It’s like high school re-incarnated when you all want to hang with the cool kids, but you’re kind of stuck with the spelling club geeks (or chess nerds if you prefer that). Anyhow, this stylish country girl ain’t no dumb donkey and has realized that this is her chance to gain more
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contacts. One thing leads to another and wham she becomes the fashion editor at a great fashion magazine – all thanks to her social skills and looks, and also the tiny benefit that no one even thinks about asking her for a CV. All this is a ‘work’ towards the top – which no one really is up for since a ‘celebrity’ wouldn’t want to be seen as having to work hard for their status (in Vienna that is) Let’s move on to another Viennese-based example. It’s more simple and features the offspring of some pretty stinkin’ rich parents. These kids don’t need to do anything, don’t give a crap about education, and couldn’t care less about healthy-living or plebeian problems: as long as the bank account is full, they can party it up in the ‘Babenberger Passage,’ and blow their brains out with cocaine (bought from their cousin studying economics), all is good. You’d beg your dad’s friend working at a big newspaper to give you an internship as a fashion or lifestyle editor. You
arrive at your first event (if can be anything, the opening of a suitcase company’s flagship store for instance), stalk the paparazzi there to get your picture taken, and basically cling to someone wearing big sunglasses and/or the craziest outfit and stick to them like glue. You laugh at all their jokes, and act as an endless supply of cigarettes, cocktail and chewing gum (the essential ‘C’s) in case they ever in need of any of them. This slimy technique will get you to your own ‘high society’ TV show on one of the three TV stations in the country. I should definitely charge commission off your future celebrity salaries, which you will undoubtedly be earning soon enough with all these methods to stardom in Vienna. Look out for the next issue of KNEON, which will feature a guide to becoming a ‘celebrity’ in Hollywood! Not. Which reminds me: if you want to make real money, please stick to another profession.
Sonia Niekrasz @ Q Models NYC by Clarens Tyson
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SEC R ET GA R D EN photo and post-production
Laurent K model
Sand van Roy IMG Models realisation, styling
Oanell makeup
Stephanie Jacquet hair
Raphael Mariage
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La Vie BohĂŠme An ode to the tropics, capturing moments of freedom, light and beauty surrounding us on our much loved Tusk travels.
Scenery photos by Tusk Collective 75
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ECTCOLIL VE RE U A E F T
LUVSHACK LuvShack is a freshly born independent record label based in the Austrian capital of Vienna. Featuring a group of ‘like-minded friends,’ Simon LeBon, Jakobin, Lee Steves and LeSale merge together to produce innovative electronica and organize some of the city’s best part-As. Featuring vinyl and digital downloads, they hover between house, disco and dub music. LeSale’s latest ‘Make Me Feel so Good’ got charted by Justin Miller from DFA Records, and received numerous admiration on the internet, so they seem to be doing a series of fortunate mixes just right. Here’s a tight musical family to look out for. (VJ)
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MAGDALENA WOLAN for
kneon 81
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let them eat cake Photographer, Alexandra Cameron Model, Paula Szwedowski @ Premier Stylist, Holly Barber Stylist Assistant, Laura Le Bayon and Sarah Marie Lovell Model, Paula Szwedowski @ Premier Makeup, Maria Tuku-Eweka Hair, Neil Gogoi Location, Anstey Hall
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Artwork by Sang W.F. Kim
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Artwork by Sang W.F. Kim 89
the tallest man on earth It’s rare to find an artist that can simultaneously communicate such tender intimacy and overwhelming power, let alone one with the astounding technical skill of The Tallest Man on Earth. With a unique and recognizable sound that you just can’t capture on a recording, it is something truly incredible to see Kristian Matsson perform live. Even playing to a packed-out venue, Matsson somehow manages to leave you feeling like you’ve been allowed to experience something profoundly intimate. 90
The raw emotion of his voice seemed to resonate amongst everyone in the audience, as he put all he had to give into this unembellished display of brilliance. Whilst old favourites like ‘Love is All’ and ‘Burden of Tomorrow’ were received with expected fervor, it was refreshing to see that new tracks such as ‘1904’ and ‘Revelation Blues’ prompted an equally exultant response from the audience. An emotive, inspired performance; The Tallest Man on Earth left me speechless.
text Marta-Emilia Bona photos Jamie Walz
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If this is love, photography & art direction by Alina Negoita starring Kimberley @ Nevs, dressed in Noir by Corina Vladescu
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new york fashion week new faces 100
by Clarens Tyson
SHIR Proenza Schouler red top, Gucci skirt
of request nyc, from malaysia, singapore
NYFW NEW FACES
CHONG
Favourite designer of this season's NYFW?
How would you describe your personal style?
Calvin Klein: it's minimal and classic, exactly what I like
Very boyish - I wear a lot of denim and black. I love wearing my leather cap wherever I go; it's simple, easy to wear and I can use it to hide my face if I’m in a bad mood! My favourite brands to wear are Alexander Wang and Rick Owens.
Which shows did you walk for this season? My debut was for a Japanese label called 4 Corners of a Circle. I also walked for Magorzata Dudek, a Polish designer
Which designer would you love to walk for, and why? Ann Demeulemeester, because
the collection reflects everything about my style, from her shoes to her bag!
What are your hobbies? I love taking pictures (Instagram!), and I also like Yoga and Thai Boxing
Who’s your celebrity crush? The model, Breja Beha - she is the bomb! 101
of request NYC
NYFW NEW FACES
WEI GUO
Your favourite designer this season of NYFW?
really have a favourite store; as a model I travel a lot so I shop anywhere I can.
Malgorzata Dudek for sure , I loved the collection and I had the chance to walk for them witch is an amazing opportunity
If you had to pick one designer that you could walk for, who would it be and why?
Which shows did you watch for?
Malgorzata Dudek because the gowns are so beautifu . If I cannot afford one then at leat I can wear it on a the catwalk
Mark Mcnairy, Diego Binetti, Norman Ambrose, Malgorzata Dudek and more.
What are your hobbies?
I love to play sports, or walk around the city. I also play this asian classical instrument call the Guzheng
How would you describe your personal style? Very casual and lay back like my personality. I like to dress simple, comfortable but classy at the same time. I love structure and colours and I’m not scared of wearing men purses sometimes, they are more convenient! I don’t
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Wei Guo is wearing a blue dress from Minling Pan Studio (Toronto), and a vintage belt
Who’s your celebrity crush? Alexander Skarsgard from True Blood, he’s is so cute.
of Elite NYC
hannah is wearing: Zara jacket and top
NYFW NEW FACES
HANNAH JOHNSON Favourite designer of NYFW? Calvin Klein - the collection was classic and straight to the point
Which shows did you walk for this season? Christian Siriano, Mariemekko
How would you describe your personal style?
I would describe it as “chill” even if most of the people wouldn’t agree with me. I’m a big fan of that rock and roll, that all black look. If I had to choose a brand that I would wear all the time it would be Alexander Wang with an electric blue Prada bag
Which designer would you love ot walk for? Burberry - I’m the English chick they need!
What are your hobbies? I love making short movies with my friends, us dancing or singing and having fun. I also love to work out and even if I’m in a big city like NY I’m still a country girl, so going in the nature with my friends
Who’s your celebrity crush? Ashton Kutcher
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NYFW NEW FACES
Name some shows you walked for this season Mariano, JF and Son, Raleigh Denim
How would you describe your personal style? I would describe my personal style as corky and vintage. My style changes from day to day depending on the mood that I am in. I usually borrow clothes from my sister or look for some vintage pieces that make a statement.
If you had to pick one designer to walk for, who would it be and why? Chanel! Their shows are simply breathtaking. You can feel the darkness and the intensity throughout the show. Chanel makes a statement in their collection and this is why I would love to walk for them.
Celebrity crush?
Ivy Timlin of Major Model Management NYC, From Buffalo,NY
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ivy is wearing: vintage black dress
Nick Jonas.
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FEELIN’ KINDA SUNDAY 106
Fashion editor, Mariana Lourenco Model, Madalina @ Premiere Make-up and hair, Stella Shim Location: London, Bloomsbury Bowling Lanes
Topshop shorts, top, and earrings, Beyond Retro glasses, Underground shoes, Helene Pe ring, Stylist’s own bracelets and socks
photographed by Hayley Benoit
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Beyond Retro dress, Underground shoes, topshop earrings
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BOTTOM: Fam Irvoll dress, Underground shoes, Topshop earrings, Helene Pe ring
TOP: Topshop blouse, American Apparel skirt, Topshop earring, Helene Pe RING
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Opposite page:Topshop skirt, top and earrings, Helene Pe ring, Underground shoes Current page: Beyond Retro dress, Underground shoes, topshop earrings
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HARDWELL Known as the ‘new kid on the block to irrevocably stay’, this not-even-23-year-old has been voted number 24 on DJ Mag Top 100, owns his own label (Revealed Recordings), and has collaborated with the world’s most infamous DJs: Fedde Le Grand, Armin van Buuren and Steve Angello to name a few. Robbert van de Corput aka Hardwell has been in the DJ scene since the QT age of 13. His ‘Big Room House’ sounds have travelled through North America with Tiesto on tour, stopping at all the major electric festivals in the world: EDC/Electric Zoo, Tomorrowland 2012…He made a quick stop at the Ottakringer Brewery in Vienna for a night, and KNEON caught up with this never-ending-hit wonder to chat about life on tour, Tomorrowland and all that is love in electro music.
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interview Victoria Jin camera ERIC KIN
KNEON
I was just at Tomorrowland a couple days ago, where you performed to over 30,000 people. Apart from the numbers, how is the atmosphere at a festival different from that of a venue, like tonight here in the Ottakringer Brewery? In general, Tomorrowland is one of the biggest festivals at this point in the world. To be there, to DJ, is a big honour and huge for your career. For me, it was really a milestone. If you compare it to a club: a festival is more of a showcase for the artist, and the club is to get in touch and meet your fans. It’s really more personal. I also try out a lot of more new tracks [at clubs], so you can see the reaction of the crowd.
How do you strike the balance between your own tracks and ones that people can recognise as well? I always try to keep the right balance. I’m not scared of playing a lot more commercial tracks. But also I don’t want to be a sellout, playing one big tune after another. I’m really happy I’m a producer so I can produce my own ideas, my own songs, and I think 90% of my songs are Hardwell bootlegs, mashups - to be different from the rest.
Are you aware of the kinds of genre of music you create? Or do you just focus on the content at hand? I think I just gain a lot of influence from different styles. I want to present my own music, I like dub step and I like reggae and everything in between - every kind of dance genre. That’s how things are born. You just do it.
Saying that, if you had to stick to one narrow genre from now on, what would it be?
Hip-Hop stuff.
Any hip-hop artists you particularly like? I’m loving songs by Drake at this point, or Kanye, because it’s not the standard hip-hop stuff. They are to me the more influencing in the scene.
This your second time in Vienna, what do you think of it? So far so good. I really look forwards to tonight. I just saw the location and it’s really industrial. It’s amazing.
You started DJing at 14. Assuming that you didn’t go out then: do you think knowing how to party is necessary to make a good party? I think so, yeah. It’s a part of every DJ, each one is a party animal inside. I think it’s about playing the right track at the right moment and teasing the crowd. Altogether, you have a perfect party!
Every two people these days is a DJ. How do you think this came about? I think all the boys in the day wanted to become a soccer player, now it’s DJ. I think it’s something from this new generation. A lot of guys call themselves ‘DJ’, producing their own mashups, out of key, whatever. But that’s all about the love of house music.
Out of all those young young DJs, what would make them ‘emerging’ and really stand out from the crowd?
your favourite act. Come up with something new, something refreshing. And play everywhere, make sure you get your name out there.
You travel a lot, you tour a lot. Is there ever a time when you want a holiday? Yeah, once a year. That’s it. I just relax. No laptop, no cellphone.
No music? No music. And it was weird, last year I was relaxing on the swimming pool. I was singing to myself [Hums ‘Spaceman’] - duh duh duh duh. And Spaceman came up. I recorded it on my iPhone and when I got back to the studio I recorded the track.
The next issue’s theme is Celebrity Being a celebrity is huge, but I’m not a celebrity, I’m just a guy from Holland who’s making music. It’s cool to get recognition for your music, but I’m definitely not the guy to be travelling around in a private jet.
How do you usually fly? Commercial flights, economy.
You’ve been DJing for so many years - whats the most important thing you’ve learnt? Be your self. Be true to yourself, follow your dream, follow your heart. Don’t let people tell you what to do, what to not do. Just stick to what you want to create and do for it.
Coming up with original music! All the DJs are playing the same songs, and it’s really important to not copy your favourite mind. Keep in mind that you can always be better than
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KNEON
THE CELEB ISSUE
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reductive reasoning: the excision of perfection photographed by CDDM photo assistant Michael Toujiline makeup Nicole V. Rivera hair Devon Alexandr stylist Kanayo Ebi 122
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Juan Vargas dress
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Juan Vargas dress
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Juan Vargas dress
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Etam Dress
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Hair styling, Nina Krajco Hair styling assistant, Dominika Reslerova Make-up, Tomas Moucka Assistant, Lily Persina
Photographed by Bethany Grace Model, Katarina Holikova @ PH Model Management Stylist, Loli Lo
it’s the
colors you have
Isabel Marant top Zara skirt Marni for H&M earrings American Apparel tights Topshop pumps
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Opposite page: Zara coat, Topshop pumps This page: H&M top, stylist’s own skirt, Manolo Blahnik shoes 135
Zara vest and pants H&M top Marni for H&M earrings Topshop pumps 136
Isabel Marant top Zara skirt Marni for H&M earrings American Apparel tights Topshop pumps 137
t s lo in e th un s photography Vins Baratta fashion Maela Leporati make up Marialessia Colombo photography Assistant Federico Mortara 138
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mash
Art is to music what pie is to mash, made to be together. Yes, they are both perfectly great dishes separately, but when served together, they make a cracking meal. They serve to enhance and elevate each other and when done correctly, tell a story. It is the ultimate screen grab of the album’s soul and so it is a pity that the age of the ‘Album cover’ is quickly drawing to a close.
reviewed by Melissa Bakth
What then makes a good album cover? When looking for a diamond, you look for the 4 C’s- colour, cut, clarity, and carat, and I guess it’s much the same for an album cover. Concept, colour, composition, and exe‘c’ution. As with any of the greatest albums of all time, Blur’s ‘The Best Of ’, David Bowie’s ‘Aladdin Sane’, The Beatles’ ‘White Album’, these covers have stood the test of time as they have married music with design and packaged their albums in a ‘brand’. It isn’t enough
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to just have a good image, or a good font or effect. Sad as it is, so many great albums fall down on their covers as they opt for irrelevant cover shots or bizarre shock factors to make for eyecatching shelf stackers. 2012 has already kicked up some great contenders of designers who have got it spot on, and frankly, it’s been pretty hard to pick just 10, but here are just a few of the greats in my eyes.
In Dreams and Time - The Ancestors
First and foremost I’m an ideas gal. I love clever concepts and exquisite execution, so when I saw this album cover by The Ancestors, I knew it would be in my top 10. To me, this cover has depth; and I’m not just talking about the multiple alternate foregrounds. There is something that intrigues me. Despite the fact that this Daliesque cover is both surreal and totally fantastical, the connection to the title and colouring makes it logical and familiar. It also makes me think of that great Fleetwood Mac video, ‘Big Love’, and anything that reminds me of that is always a good thing. P.S. If you haven’t seen it, watch it now. A simple concept seamlessly executed.
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The Flaming Lips The Flaming Lips and Heady Fwends Now here’s a great bit of digital mastery. I must admit, I’m a tad traditional when it comes to the digital age; for me cut and paste means scissors and glue, but every so often a cover and idea like this comes along, and I can only stand back in admiration. Traditionally pretty, it ain’t, but uniquely brilliant it is. This abstract cover image is randomly generated by a computer so every copy of the limited edition vinyl (yes, vinyl) has its own pattern. Come on, that’s pretty amazing. 148
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Mid Air Paul Buchanan This is just one those covers that comes together in perfect synchronicity. Concept, type, colouring and execution are all clear. I love the fact that it puts you in the cerebral and calming state of mind and gives a great indication of the artist and mood of the album. Bravo.
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Best of Kylie But not everything in this collection is so deep and broody. In June this year, pop queen Kylie released her ‘Best of’. Now I do love a bit of Kylie. This is one lady who transcends music. She is an icon. What I love about this cover it the way that is sums up the essence of who she is. It cleverly documents her changing image through the years in little button badges and has great detailing like that acid washed denim jacket and punchy pink lipstick, which literally reveal her entire brand. We don’t even need to see her eyes or frankly her bejeweled pink name on the side of her jacket. 150
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Magic Young What’s not to love about this cover? It was designed by artist and philosopher Leif Podhajsky and was created to echo the hypnotic, dreamlike electronic sound of the band, Young. Beautiful and visually arresting. 151
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Flying Garth Stevenson Sometimes you just want an album cover to do what it says on the tin. Well, here it is, the most literal and beautiful translation of an album title. This is a masterful example of simplicity. Just like a steak dinner- which seems like an easy dish- it is pretty damn tricky to get right; too little heat and you get bloody mary, and too much and you get chewy leather. Forget ‘Mechanical Animals’ (Marilyn Manson), these kinds of covers are actually taking the boldest risks. It ‘flies’ in the face of many ill-conceived notions that one must fill every square inch of a canvas to have a successful cover or go extreme with a jarring image to grab a viewers attention. I think that this cover is stunning. Understated and pure. 152
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Breakfast Chiddy Bang By now, no doubt, you’ve spotted a pattern- simple idea, great delivery. Yes, people, that’s what it’s all about. I love this cover by Chiddy Bang, as it’s colourful, nostalgic and current. View it from afar, and you’ll definitely miss the intricate references to all those ‘breakfast’ cereals stacked in a pantone frenzy, but from up close and personal, you get a great sense of band’s personality and ‘Loca Cocoa’. 153
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Always Xiuxiu Nothing quite says ‘Always’ like a black ink tattoo. I think this cover is butch and beautiful and so well executed. I love the integrated type, high quality skin pore ratio and even little whispy leg hairs. It will be ‘forever’ a top 10 for me.
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Lex Hives The Hives Here is another great example of a simple idea being exquisitely executed. Yes, it’s not exactly a new idea- shadows forming letterswe’ve all seen it done…but I would bet, more times than not, it would have been badly. Take note, this is being done, and done with style. Hats off to you boys, good job. 155
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State Hospital Frightened Rabbit This is a lovely bit of dark humour. Almost as if stolen from the set of ‘A League of Gentleman’, this cover subtly conveys a disturbing story. It teases and almost coaxes you into looking at it more and more. Great use of high definition photography, great use of rusty colouring and great use of undistracting typography. 156
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YOU DON'T WANT TO KNOW BY YUJI WATANABE | STYLED BY JADE J. Hair by Danielle Carson Make-up by Rika Fukada Model is Sveta K. @ Metropolitan Models All clothes by CHOYO 158
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Ljubljana, September 2012.
kiss the future
♼ photography Katja Kremenic models Maxi, Maja, Iza, Lina and Eva fashion Kiss The Future by Tanja Padan
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WHO KNOWS WHAT COULD HAP
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BY FANNY SCHLICHTER STYLED BY MAUD DUPUY FEATURING EDWEEN MALAVAL
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STOCKISTS Ksubi
Maslo Jewelry
Vivien of Holloway
Story By Tang
Zara
Helene Pe
Cue
Camilla and Marc
Underground
Lover
Shakuhachi
Fam Irvoll
Wittner
Nicola Finetti
American Apparel
Willow
Beyond Retro
Linda Farrow
A Part of Me
Topshop
www.ksubi.com www.bonelpr.com.au www.cue.cc www.loverthelabel.com www.wittner.com.au www.willowltd.com www.apom.net.au
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www.maslojewelry.com www.zara.com www.camillaandmarc.com www.shakuhachi.net www.nicolafinetti.com www.beyondretro.com www.topshop.com
www.vivienofholloway.com ny.helenepe.com www.underground-england.co.uk www.famirvoll.com www.americanapparel.net www.lindafarrow.co.uk
By Daniel Lehenbauer featuring Gracie @ Elite London
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KNEON —Welcome to the fifth issue celebrating the famed personality, the glam that supposedly comes with it, and everything ‘it’ in between. Featuring Tino Criso, Ira Chernova, Amie Milne, The Tallest Man on Earth, Ben Giles, Rebekah Campbell and more.
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5 Celebrity