Kopenhagen fur APRIL 2014
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Contents APRIL 2014
6 Editor in Chief Torben Nielsen
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24 5 Editorial
Editor MICHAEL ABILON/ MAB@kopenhagenfur.com L ayout lulu xue/Frances Yuan Jinsong Print montagebureauet aps Advertising K athrine Engberg / [+45] 4326 1112 Cover FUR COAT BY Fre Ya Dalsjö DESIGNED FOR
6 East West Fusion at Kopenhagen Fur’s fashion show 8 Behind the scenes: Copenhagen Fashion Week’s biggest show
KOPENHAGEN FUR'S OPENING SHOW AT CF W 14
12 News in brief 17 This is fur 18 Satisfactory sale of AAA 20 Stimulating the market for seal skins 24 Generation 2.0 sets the new direction for the Chinese Fur Trade 25 Events 26 Auction schedule and offering 2013/14 30 Contact Kopenhagen Fur
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Editorial Our battle against myths
In February, the European fur trade held a joint event in the EU parliament in Brussels for the first time. In four days, the MEPs and European officials had the opportunity to visit an exhibition of the European fur trade. The exhibition was located in the lobby of the parliament and was therefore visited by many parliamentarians. Parallel with the event, more than 100 meetings were held with parliamentarians from all member countries as well as with key officials. Many industries including the fur trade must recognize that they are shrouded in so many myths and prejudices that it is infinitely difficult to have a dialogue about the trade based on knowledge. Objectively speaking, the European fur trade is a green industry with good animal welfare and minimal environmental impact. This is proved by numerous reports from reputable research institutions. Yet the business has a somewhat tarnished reputation in several countries. This is a shame because the European fur trade has so much to offer. At a time when growth and income generation are in short supply in Europe, it is surely not without interest that the European fur trade creates thousands of jobs. Next to the oil industry, the fashion industry is the second most polluting industry. Seen from this perspective, it is worth noticing that fur is one of the few green products in the fashion industry. Moreover, in a time when too many
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Many industries including the fur trade must recognize that they are shrouded in so many myths and prejudices that it is infinitely difficult to have a dialogue about the trade based on knowledge. Objectively speaking, the European fur trade is a green industry with good animal welfare and minimal environmental impact. Photo: Helle Moos
companies and industries in Europe are not doing particularly well in international competition, it is also worth noticing that the European fur trade is doing well and that fur is an extremely important export product to, for instance, China. I would go so far as to claim that large parts of the European industry could learn from the fur trade. The fur trade is perhaps the only industry in Europe, which in the proper sense of the word can call itself European, because the fur trade in Europe works closely together politically,
commercially and in research. The European fur trade’s new organization, Fur Europe, showed the flag for the first time. Fur Europe is in fact a joint operation of the fur breeder associations’ European organization, EFBA, and the International Fur Federation’s European members. It was a very good start, which bodes well for the future.
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East West Fusion at Kopenhagen Fur’s fashion show Copenhagen Fashion Week opened with a tribute to the cooperation between Kopenhagen Fur and China. Three Danish and three Chinese designers gave their views on future fur fashion. On the catwalk the eastern and western styles were very different, but there are indications that the difference will be less significant in the future. by Heidi Cecilie Lorvik
Denmark and China each have a proud tradition of design. Scandinavian design is linked to simplicity, whereas Asian design is typically more colourful. In Kopenhagen Fur’s opening show, very different approaches to fur and design characterized the eastern and western styles on the catwalk. The Danish designers had lots of innovative ideas whereas the Chinese designers remained more traditional and elegant. - The conclusion, when we look at the show, is that the Chinese thought that the Danish designers were more daring with their fur, says Michael Stadi, head of KiCK. - We want to see if we can bring eastern and western designers closer to each other, learn from each other and try to bridge the gap. That was the whole idea behind the
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East West Fusion theme. We wanted to demonstrate that fashion is actually global. Of course there are local trends, but the fashion phenomenon is global, so what can we learn from each other? Meeting in the middle This way of thinking also influences the six designers involved. One of them is Chinese ZouYou. He founded his brand YOUZ in 2009 in Beijing’s famous art district 798. His design is minimalistic and elegant and a good example of how Chinese tradition meets western inspiration. ZouYou believes that we influence each other in the East and the West more and more. The designs are not as different as they were many years ago.
- East and West belong to very different cultures. China has many traditional designs and a traditional design history. But we live in a globalized world, and I believe that the direction of fashion is that we somehow meet more or less in the middle. In China, the younger generation has already embraced a lot of western culture and fashion, says ZouYou. As well as being a designer, he is also the Vice Dean at the School of Fashion, Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology. Unavoidable influence One of the show’s Danish designers, Freya Dalsjö, agrees with ZouYou. She believes that the inspiration works both ways between East and West. She herself is very
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inspired by Asian culture and she was in Shanghai in September, which she found incredibly fascinating. - We can learn a lot. Especially at a time when we inevitably influence each other and are very curious about each other. Meeting in the middle is also important in order to achieve success across the cultures, says Michael Stadi. - If you wish to be successful in Asia as a Scandinavian company, you have to both be innovative and have a deep respect for the culture of the local market. Then you must try to combine the two things. And you should not be alarmed if you do not succeed the first time. You just have to keep trying and adjust and learn from the experience until you get it right.
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Behind the scenes: Copenhagen Fashion Week’s biggest show Kopenhagen Fur’s opening show for the fashion week in January takes months to prepare and a show of such calibre presents many challenges. Stylist Eva Helmbaek is in charge of the preparations. Her tasks cover everything from keeping the fire authorities happy to figuring out how to dress the models without ruining their hairstyle. By Heidi Cecilie Lorvik
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Kopenhagen Fur presented six different designers whereas a show usually has only one. And this year, the show had as many as 30 models, whereas the usual number is 12-15.
It is Wednesday morning right before the show. The 150 people backstage are busy with the final preparations. The air is full of hairspray and commands. Out front, 800 celebrities, politicians and journalists are waiting. The models take their positions and Eva Helmbaek starts the countdown. Three. Two. One. 26 minutes later, the models leave the catwalk, the spotlights are turned off and the show is over. Now we turn back the clock to October last year, when the preparations
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began. Eva Helmbaek got a call from Kopenhagen Fur asking her if she would be in charge of the opening show for the fashion week. When she hung up, her head was already full of ideas of how the scenography should look and how the East West Fusion theme should be expressed in the show. - I cannot even start to think about how many hours I have spent. I think about the show constantly from when I get the first call until the show is over. I find inspiration
everywhere for the scenography, which is the first thing that needs to be in order, says Eva Helmbaek, who arranged the show the last five years. Flawless fire safety Her experience has taught her all the things she needs to be aware of. For instance, she has to make 3D drawings for the fire authorities. They can shut down the show in two seconds if the safety is not up to their standards.
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Kopenhagen Fur and the Danish Chinese cultural association celebrated the chinese new year just before the big opening show at Copenhagen City Hall. Bystanders were treated with furtune cookies as well as the traditional Lion Dance, which attracted quite a lot of attention.
- The drawings have to be very detailed and precise. The exits cannot be blocked and then everything has to be protected from fire - Carpets, curtains and stairs, says Eva Helmbaek.
hairstyles and makeup within just three minutes. - It was so impressive to see how calm she was on the catwalk after the hectic activity backstage, says Eva Helmbaek.
BIG SHOW, BIG CHALLENGE Kopenhagen Fur presented six different designers whereas a show usually has only one. And this year, the show had as many as 30 models, whereas the usual number is 12-15. - It was important to have this many models. In this way each designer could have their own models with a unique look. For example Jamy Wee, who wanted his models to have bristled ponytails and bright and colourful makeup. That would not have been possible with fewer models because there would not be time to change their appearance before they had to be on the catwalk again for the next designer. The exception was the Chinese model who was the only model to walk the catwalk more than once. To be able to change her appearance, she had six people concentrating on her alone to give her new
Focus on fur The size of the show is one thing. But a show with fur adds a new level to the challenge. According to Eva Helmbaek, only few photographers master the art of taking good pictures of fur on the catwalk. Therefore, it was important that backdrop behind the catwalk faded into light blue so the focus would be on the fur on the press photographs. To make the fur look its best, she also instructed the models not to touch each other. - Just putting a finger in the fur shows on the catwalk. Backstage I kept saying: “Be careful with the fur” when the stylists use hairspray. Five of the models had to wear the fur before they got their hair done because the bristled hairstyles made it impossible to get the coats over their heads. - So I had to make a strict schedule
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for the hairstylists about the order of the styling: fur or hair first. One poor model had to sit with a fur coat on while she had her hair done, and it was a hot experience! A broken heel At the rehearsal the day before the show, it became obvious why a rehearsal is important. Danish designer Freya Dalsjoe had made shoes with a furry heel for the show, but when the model wore them down the catwalk, the heel broke. - Freya screamed, the model apologized and I said: “What a relief this is happening now”, says Eva Helmbaek, who immediately got hold of extra pairs of black stilettos for the show. Eva Helmbaek is very experienced. For more than 14 years, she has arranged numerous shows for Kopenhagen Fur and many others in the fashion industry. Therefore, she is always prepared for any obstacle; a broken heel or bristled ponytails cannot upset her. - It is a huge job, but I am very passionate about it and I do love fur. It is hard to let it go once the show is over.
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News in brief
The best auction for quality The Chinchilla Top Lot was auctioned on 10 February and went to the Italian company SAP FUR, who calls the skins the most luxurious and special material available. Mr Alessandro Paiaro from SAP FUR in Italy bought the Chinchilla Top Lot for 1000 DKK per skin.
Mr Kim Jong Hwan from Korea is in charge of KunSan Pil’s Trading Company. The company focuses on purchasing skins and selling them to the fashion industry.
- I am excited and proud. It is for customers who understand quality, says Alessandro Paiaro about his purchase and highlights Boutique Mekha Italii.
Kim Jong Hwan explains that he decided that he would buy the Silverblue Velvet Female Top Lot before the auction began.
Alessandro Paiaro took part in the auction for the sole purpose of buying Chinchilla skins, which he calls the most luxurious and special material. After his many previous visits he praises the Danish auction house highly.
- Everybody really wanted the Top Lot. So I was lucky to get it. I decided before the auction that it was going to be mine and I am happy to bring it to Korea, Kim Jon Hwan says.
Kim Jong Hwan has been in the fur industry since 1985 and has participated in Kopenhagen Fur’s auctions many times. He visits the auction house 2-3 times a year and prefers to take back the best qualities to his many customers.
- It’s the best auction for quality, he states.
SAP FUR also made styles for Jean//Phillip that were shown at Copenhagen Fashion Week in January.
Top Lot Award This Year’s Top Lot winners are awarded with honour, as well as a new award. The Top Lot Award is made out of crystal glass, and it has Kopenhagen Fur’s logo beautifully engraved in the crystal.
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I decided that I wanted the Top Lot
- The best way to ensure success for your business is quite simple. Demand quality, select quality and deliver quality. Our customers deserve nothing less than the very best, Kim Jon Hwan says. Kim Jon Hwan purchased the Silverblue Velvet Female Top Lot for 590 DKK per skin.
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My customers demand the best Mr Manios Dimitrios from the company Centro Bel Furs was the buyer of the prestigious Black Cross Male Top Lot at Kopenhagen Fur’s February auction. Mr Manios Dimitrios was assisted by his broker, Michael Lehrfreund. Centro Bel Furs was established by Manios Dimitrios in 1979 and is based in Italy close to Bologna. His primary market is Russia. It was not the first time he bought a Top Lot at one of Kopenhagen Fur’s auctions and it is a clear strategy on his part to buy the best for his customers. - My customers demand the best and, therefore, I want to give them the best. It is also a way of promoting my company because the Top Lot at Kopenhagen Fur’s auctions is very sought-after and is in great demand among my customers, he says. Manios Dimitrios has been a buyer at Kopenhagen Fur’s auctions for more than 40 times. The Top Lot will be used for jackets in his collection in the coming season. He purchased the Top Lot for 1,080 DKK. Manios Dimitrios hopes that he will have the opportunity to cooperate with Kopenhagen Fur in 2014 in order to generate publicity for his company.
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Kopenhagen Fur’s first ever Triple A Top Lot goes to China The North American Triple A skins were sold for 1220 DKK per skin to Huasi Agricultural Development Co Ltd., the first and only public company in the fur business in China. - In the case of China, the customers are willing to pay more for an American skin, says Mr Peter Zeitlin from P J Zeitlin & Co Ltd who bought the skins for Huasi Agricultural Development Co Ltd. Peter Zeitlin explains that Huasi Agricultural Development Co Ltd is a vertically structured operation doing everything from raw skins to finished garments and is the leading company in China within fashion and design. Mink skins produced in China have long nap. American farmers have always bred short napped mink and a short nap is prestigious in the eye of the customers, he says.
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News in brief
as vice chairman Manolo Garcia attended the course along with Ricardo Fernando Antonio, AGAVI’s veterinarian. Sharing through networking Kopenhagen Fur had arranged an extensive programme during which farmers were given a chance to see how skins are sorted. Kopenhagen Fur demonstrated how their grading system works. Following this, a course on the control of minks’ body condition was held at one of the local farms.
Sorting in La Coruna in Spain
- The Spanish farmers have expressed a lot of gratitude and are very happy with the knowledge that they gain from participating in such a course, says Pablo Miele.
A large attendance and plenty of interest from the Spanish mink farmers during Kopenhagen Fur’s sorting course By Michael Abilon
- What we can offer these farmers is knowledge-sharing through networking. The Spanish mink farmers are increasingly demanding this. They want a strong organization that can help them improve their own skills, so they are looking forward to future arrangements, he says.
42 farmers from 30 different mink farms attended Kopenhagen Fur’s sorting course in January, in order to learn about sorting, control of minks’ body condition and to ”meet” Kopenhagen Fur. This course was a great success and will be followed up by another arrangement in April.
THE QUALITY IS IMPROVING - One of the things that we’ve learned from this sorting course is that the mink farmers can see how far they have come over the last three years. They want to become even better and they are more than willing to listen and learn from our consultants, says Pablo Miele.
- We sent out invitations in November last year, but I had made some inquires prior to that to find out if the farmers would be interested in meeting us, says Pablo Miele, who works as a consultant at Kopenhagen Fur.
That’s why these courses are a beneficial to both parties. They give farmers the means to improve the quality of their own skins, which naturally benefits Kopenhagen Fur.
- We managed to attract members from the two Spanish mink breeders associations. Isidoro Cisneros, chairman of AGAVI, as well
Kopenhagen Fur has other arrangements planned in Spain. On 8 April an information day will be held for all Spanish mink farmers.
cleft lip surgery for children in underprivileged families. Charity has always been part of Kopenhagen Fur’s focused effort in China. Together with all the partners in the trade, this time the gala night raised over RMB 550,000 for Operation Smile to help those Chinese children suffering from orofacial clefts. This is the third year for Kopenhagen Fur to support this valuable charity programme with a new record donation.
’Fursight’ Gala gathered industry for charity RMB 550,000 was raised for ’Operation Smile’ at Kopenhagen Fur’s Gala during the Beijing Fur Fair. More than 300 guests, customers and partners gave their support to help provide free
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- Kopenhagen Fur always strives to focus not only on business operations in the market, but also on leaving a positive impression on the society we operate in. We are proud that our customers and partners share the same vision as us. Together we can extend the warmth of the fur trade to more people in great needs, says Kenneth Loberg, Director of Marketing and Business Development of Kopenhagen Fur.
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Hanging on unique wooden hooks and clips, dozens of fur techniques made by Kopenhagen Studio were undoubtedly the most interesting attractions. They were all made by Kopenhagen Studio, the global industry creative hub, and designed to inspire furriers and fashion designers to exploit the many application possibilities of fur. This year’s stand also strongly focused on the expanded types of fur material supplied by Kopenhagen Fur. Apart from the best Danish mink mutation types, Kopenhagen Fur also showed the AAA black mink skins, swakara from Namibia and seal skins from Great Greenland. This means that Kopenhagen Fur can offer more attractive, diverse and complete fur assortments to global fur customers.
Exhibition of Excellency Kopenhagen fur’s stand was crowded with professionals looking for fur inspirations at the Beijing Fur Fair.
- Kopenhagen Fur has always attached great importance to the Chinese market. Over the years, Kopenhagen Fur has been committed to pushing the upgrading of the Chinese Fur trade to the international level. We hope that what we are sharing and developing on a leading global platform will benefit more Chinese furriers in terms of material procurement as well as product development and business improvement, says Kenneth Loberg, Director of Marketing and Business Development of Kopenhagen Fur.
Sorting courses for the year 2013/2014 Kopenhagen Fur Academy is pleased to announce the dates of the sorting courses 2013/2014: Sorting and auction procedures course: 24 March to 9 April 2014 27 May to 19 June 2014
Topping-out ceremony at Kopenhagen Fur
The courses are well attended. You can register online at www.kopenhagenfur.com – Auction/About us/ Sorting Courses. For further information please contact the Customer Department, Annette Hindborg
The new extension to Kopenhagen Fur’s restaurant will soon be completed, and as tradition calls for a topping out ceremony. Managing Director Torben Nielsen took a break from the February auction and held a speech where he congratulated the workers and the architect for their efforts.
Phone no. +45 4326 1440
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Fax no. +45 4326 1449 E-mail to customers@kopenhagenfur.com
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The website, which is named “Truth about fur”, will provide information and debunk myths about the fur trade in North America.
Truth About Fur– We are live The North American Fur Industry Council launched a comprehensive new interactive web portal with all the real truths and insights about the fur trade. By Michael Abilon
The website, which is named “Truth about fur”, will provide information and debunk myths about the fur trade in North America. It was created by the North American Fur Industry Council, a collaboration of fur trade organizations (including FICA) in the US and Canada and generously supported by IFF America’s funding. The group has worked extensively over the past year archiving information, researching and writing to create an in-depth database of up-to-the-minute information relating to the fur trade. The result is an extraordinary fact-finding and opinion-shaping tool for industry professionals, consumers, legislators and media. Questions and answers Once you visit the website you will have a chance to see all the questions that you might have about the North American fur trade. How is trapping carried out? Can trapping be a tool for regulating wild life? These questions are answered by text and video interviews with various sources such as veterinarians, biologists and consultants. The site presents detailed information that has been meticulously gathered in order to face the growing challenge of myths that portray the fur trade as being unethical and cruel towards animals. Please visit www.truthaboutfur.com and familiarize yourself with the information provided.
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This is fur
Brussels event was a great success By Tobias Østerga ard Br andt
National fur associations from 16 European countries participated in more than 100 bilateral meetings with MEPs and other important EU stakeholders during the European fur industry’s information and exhibition event ‘This is fur’ in the European Parliament from 21 to 23 January. -It was a very successful event in that we managed to provide so many politicians and civil servants with reliable facts about the European fur industry. Our information stand was indeed very well visited and the fur industry received a lot of support for our commitment to the various political issues like animal welfare, invasive alien species and consumer product safety, says Bo Manderup, CEO of the European Fur Information Center. The ‘This is fur’ event also evoked a reaction from Eurogroup for Animals, who produced a brief to MEPs meant to discredit fur and European fur farming. The brief from Eurogroup for Animals relies heavily on the 2001 report from the Commission’s Scientific Committee on
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Animal Health and Animal Welfare. At the time of publishing the report was highly controversial since 6 out of 8 scientists from the working group withdrew from the report after its publication saying it was “politically slanted against fur farming”. -The scientific references from the animal advocates are 10-15 years old and they only serve to polarize the animal welfare debate when recent and scientifically independent research on the welfare of fur animals is rejected without any further explanation. We will correct the misinformation over the next few weeks. EU politicians must base their decisions on reliable facts,” Bo Manderup says. Besides the hundreds of guests who dropped in, the fur industry’s event in the European Parliament also drew a small demonstration of 12-14 people, consisting of animal rights activists and assistants from the European Parliament. -We had ten times as many assistants visiting the exhibition, gaining truthful information and trying out the innovative fur styles exhibitioned. We
also acknowledge the right to freedom of speech for all. One of the assistants told us that he could not work in an institution which allowed a fur exhibition to take place, so we might have cost the European Parliament an employee but at least it is still a democratic institution with room for different opinions, says Bo Manderup. THE IMPORTANCE OF INTERNATIONAL COLLABORATION Tage Pedersen, Chairman of Kopenhagen Fur, travelled to Brussels to participate in the event and met with many colleagues united for the cause. - These events are essential to our international political work. I am very pleased to see a great turnout and the overall event has turned out to be a great success. These debates, the ongoing dialogue and the transparency of our industry are very important in our proactive stakeholder relations both nationally and internationally, says Tage Pedersen.
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Satisfactory sale of AAA The AAA brand was well received by buyers in a market with declining prices By Michael Abilon
100 %. All AAA skins were sold at Kopenhagen Fur‘s February auction. - I’m very pleased that we sold all the skins. We have worked hard to ensure that this brand is well received. One of the first things we did was to set up a Steering Committee to discuss all the relevant subjects concerning the AAA collection. When we held our first meeting during Beijing Fur Fair, we agreed that it was essential that we would sell 100%. Anything less could hurt the brand, says Jesper Lauge, Sales Director of Kopenhagen Fur’s Farmer Service. Accepted the brand The prices of the female AAA skins were slightly higher than the Danish black skins indicating that the buyers had accepted the
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brand as well as the quality. However, the male skins were sold at approx. 5 USD less than their Danish counterparts. - The reason for this price difference has to do with demand, says Jesper Lauge. - Male skins are typically needed for fur accessories so buyers purchase these skins in bulk, and there were simply more Danish black skins. - The female skins are usually used for designer clothing, which is desired by the market, but clothing is not produced in the same quantities as the smaller accessories, so the number of female skins for sale was adequate for our buyers. Stimulating the market The reason why Kopenhagen Fur managed to sell 100% of the AAA skins as well as
100% of the total offering of mink is simple. - The buyers may have been somewhat cautious before the February auction due to uncertainty about the market. As the world’s largest fur auction house we have a responsibility for removing uncertainty and finding a market price, so in order to keep our buyers interested we gave our buyers certain advantages. We have offered favourable terms such as interest free purchases with 25% deposit paid before prompt day and no warehouse rent until 7 April, says Jesper Lauge. The AAA male skins were sold at an average price of 62,2 USD and the female skins were sold at an average price of 47,7 USD. The AAA Black Velvet Top Lot was sold at 222 USD, which was the highest price among the Top Lots at the February auction.
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Stimulating the market for seal skins The sale of seal skins during Kopenhagen Fur’s February auction was satisfactory considering the current market conditions, but there is still work to be done to stimulate the market. By Michael Abilon
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When we take into consideration that the fur market is currently characterized by declining prices, I find it impressive that seal skins managed to maintain their market price, says Torben Nielsen, CEO of Kopenhagen Fur.
During the first day of Kopenhagen Fur’s February auction 13,248 Greenlandic seal skins were offered for sale. Roughly half were sold at the market price that was set during the December auction. - When we take into consideration that the fur market is currently characterized by declining prices, I find it impressive that seal skins managed to maintain their market price, says Torben Nielsen, CEO of Kopenhagen Fur. - However with only 45.6 % of the skins sold, it shows us that the market needs further stimulation. Isolated from markets According to Torben Nielsen, the continuing challenge that seal skin faces is the import ban in Europe and the US. Although Inuit seal skins are exempt from the ban within the EU, the ban has had a decimating effect on the market. - The ban means that seal skins cannot be sold on the US market and even though they are allowed within the EU, there is virtually no market for seal skins, says Torben Nielsen. - If consumers wrongly believe that seals are an endangered species and that seals are hunted with clubs, which they are not in Greenland, we are already at a disadvantage before the debate about the use of seal has even begun. Fresh winds in the debate about seal There is, however, a new tone in the debate about seal hunting. The population of seals
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has grown enormously over the last few years up to a point where the population has become a threat to fish throughout the North Atlantic, the Baltic as well as the North Sea. - Seals are now a threat to fishing in many countries including Greenland as well and people are becoming aware of that, so the debate on regulating the population of seals is no longer a taboo, says Torben Nielsen. - There is a ban on hunting seals throughout Europe, but Scotland and Sweden have chosen to disregard this, because they have a need to regulate wildlife that they have to address. This debate is also starting in Denmark. Torben Nielsen hopes that this discussion can create a feeling of acceptance of seal skin in Denmark and the rest of Europe. - One can only hope that the politicians who were in favour of the import ban, are now embarrassed by their decision, and that they will seek to rectify the situation, perhaps by permitting regulation of the seal population, which can, in turn, sway public opinion on seal skin. A public debate on this matter could debunk some of the myths that surround it. Creating awareness At the moment the Inuits of Greenland as well as the company Great Greenland, which sells the seal hunters’ skins, will have to arm themselves with patience. - The challenge is to make Europeans embrace seal skin. If that doesn’t happen in Europe the Chinese won’t embrace this type either, Torben Nielsen says. - We are continuously working with
Greenland to create awareness at a political level. We are also including seal skin in our designs as well as our marketing campaigns so that other designers, hopefully, will be inspired and use seal in their collections.
Did you know? • Seals are not an endangered species. Inuits are allowed to hunt seal and sell their skins. • WWF estimates that there are approximately 12 million seals in the waters surrounding Greenland. Currently the Inuits hunt between 150,000/200,000 seals annually, which does not threaten the species. In fact, the population is now so large that seals are causing serious damage to their own prey – Halibut and Cod. • The Natural Institute of Greenland has documented that the population of seals consists of approx. 17.5 million and that it annually consumes 16 million tons of fish and shellfish, which is damaging fishing industries throughout the Atlantic region. • KNAPK (Kalaallit Nunaanni Aalisartut Piniartullu Kattuffiat / the organisation for fishermen and hunters in Greenland) reports that they have observed emaciated seals throughout the Arctic region.
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Generation 2.0 sets the new direction for the Chinese Fur Trade Organized by the world’s leading fur auction house, the 2014 Kopenhagen Fur Summit in Beijing was held with a focus on future buyers. Our Fur Generation 2.0. This was the theme of the summit and it was the first time that the fur trade focused on the younger generation of consumers as well as entrepreneurs in the trade and discussed the 2.0 era of the fur industry. During the summit, Kenneth Loberg, Director of Marketing and Business Development of Kopenhagen Fur, explained about a marketing research report, which helps fur industry elites, media and fashion designers to have an integral understanding of the younger generation’s fur consumption trends. THE FUTURE CHALLENGES OF CHINESE FURRIERS The research reveals that there is continuous growth of Chinese consumption demands for fur and compared to the older generation,
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the younger generation presents explicit changes on lifestyle and consumption concepts. They value new technology highly, and they tend to like to share information. They pursue brands, design, fashion and quality. They are more sensitive to brands. However, they do not blindly follow the major designer brands; they pursue and stay with their own individual identity. They have a lifestyle more similar to western cultures and focus much more on the quality of life. All these present a new challenge for the Chinese furriers on how to create the right product and reach the right consumer segment through the right channel. There was an interesting interactive section at the summit. Several excellent family entrepreneurs stood up on stage and expressed their opinions on management practices, brand marketing, product design
and business development. Fast cars and fur Cross-industry speakers from AMG under Mercedes Benz were invited to share the experience and strategies from the automobile brand to expand the consumer group to the younger generation. - Through knowledge-sharing, resource consolidating and platform building, Kopenhagen Fur Summit has proved to be a successful communication platform for fur industry elites, media experts and fashion industry partners. This is the third Kopenhagen Fur Summit and we hope the platform will continue to serve the industry for its modernization and continuous growth, said Chris Cui, General Manager of Kopenhagen Fur Beijing Office.
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Events in copenhagen 4-14 April 2014
Exhibition
VAN GOGH, GAUGUIN, BERNARD - THE DRAMA IN ARLES
LUCIA DI LAMMERMOOR
Van Gogh, Gauguin, Bernard - The drama in Arles
Audiences can look forward to a gothic story of love
depicts the background of the two artists fateful
and madness based on a tale by Sir Walter Scott, the
confrontation and introduces the lesser known
man behind the knightly adventure, Ivanhoe.
Émile Bernard as a major catalyst for the highly-
Lucia is an innocent pawn in a political family
charged discussions about art that not only had
feud masterminded by her scheming brother. He
heat between them, but was also translated into
manipulates Lucia into giving up her beloved for
La Bayadère is one of the great classic ballets of
breakthrough painting.
marriage to a man she loathes. When she begins
the Russian tradition – an extravaganza spiced with
From a distance, you might think that Van Gogh,
to realise that her brother has exploited her and
Oriental spiritualism and exoticism.
Gauguin and Bernard had common objectives of
ruined her life, her sanity cracks in two with tragically
The story takes place in India, and Nikolaj Hübbe
creating a new visual language. This was far from
horrifying consequences.
has in this spectacular version from 2012 moved
the case - although Van Gogh believed it at one
the story forward to the late nineteenth century
time. For where Van Gogh believed that the new
when India was a British colony. Here we encounter
age artist would paint a subject, as he saw it before
a fateful love triangle, involving a beautiful temple
him, Gauguin and Bernard believed that he should
〉The Royal Theatre, Old Stage
dancer, the bayadère Nikija.
portray the basis of memory and imagination.
〉kglteater.dk
〉4 and 5 April
〉Until June 2014
〉The Royal Theatre, Old Stage
〉Ordrupgaard
PORGY AND BESS
〉kglteater.dk
〉ordrupgaard.dk
Porgy and Bess is at once classic and jazzy,
Ballet
LA BAYADÈRE
Opera
〉8 and 9 April
Opera
sophisticated and folksy. George Gershwin’s American ‘folk opera’, as he called it, takes Exhibition
ARAB CONTEMPORARY
place in the 1920s among African-Americans in the fictional Catfish Row of Charleston, South
Arab Contemporary is the second chapter in the
Carolina. Handicapped Porgy tries to rescue
series “Architecture, Culture and Identity” – and is
Bess from the clutches of her violent lover
a successor to the exhibition NEW NORDIC, which
Crown and the drug dealer Sportin’ Life, all the
Louisiana showed in 2012. The series is about
while falling head over heels with her.
how architecture is both a bearer of identity and
Porgy and Bess is directed by Scottish opera
promotes the shaping of the cultural distinctiveness
and musical director John Doyle.
of a country or a region.
The opera is performed in English with Danish subtitles.
A PRIL 2014
〉Until May 2014
〉5-6 and 8-13 April
〉Louisiana
〉The Opera
〉Louisiana.dk
〉kglteater.dk
25
kopenhagen fur
Auction schedule and Offering 2013/14
Sizes to be offered Males December February April June September Black 40-30-00-0 40-30-00-0 40-30-00-0 50-40-30-00-0-1-2-3 Mahogany 30-00 40-30-00-0 40-30-00-0 40-30-00-0 50-40-30-00-0-1-2-3 Brown 40-30-00-0 40-30-00-0 50-40-30-00-0 40-30-00-0 50-40-30-00-0-1-2-3 Glow 40-30-00-0 40-30-00-0 50-40-30-00-0 40-30-00-0 50-40-30-00-0-1-2-3 Silverblue 30-00 50-40-30-00 40-30-00-0 50-40-30-00 0-1-2-3 White 30-00 40-30-00-0 40-30-00-0 50-40-30-00 0-1-2-3 Pearl 30-00-0 40-30-00-0 30-00-0 50-40-30-00 0-1-2-3 Sapphire 30-00 30-00-0 50-40-30-00 0-1-2-3 Palomino 30-00 40-30-00-0 50-40-30-00-0 1-2-3 Females December February April June September Black 0-1-2-3 0-1-2-3 0-1-2 00-0-1-2-3-4-5 Mahogany 1-2 0-1-2-3 0-1-2-3 0-1-2 00-0-1-2-3-4-5 Brown 0-1-2-3 00-0-1-2-3 0-1-2-3 00-0-1-2 00-0-1-2-3-4-5 Glow 0-1-2-3 00-0-1-2-3 0-1-2-3 00-0-1-2 00-0-1-2-3-4-5 Silverblue 0-1-2 0-1-2 0-1-2 00-0-1-2 3-4-5 White 1-2 0-1-2-3 0-1-2 00-0-1-2 3-4-5 Pearl 0-1-2 0-1-2 0-1-2 00-0-1-2 3-4-5 Sapphire 1-2 0-1-2 00-0-1-2 3-4-5 Palomino 1-2 0-1-2 00-0-1-2-3 4-5
Other sizes will be offered when appropriate numbers of skins are available. Sizes of types not mentioned above will be offered when appropriate quantities are available. All breeders and breeders lowgrades will be offered at the June auction.
26
KOPENH AGEN F UR NE W S
Auction dates 2013/14 December 2013 Inspection: 11 - 13 December Sales: 14 - 16 December
April 2014 Inspection: 4 - 8 April Sales: 9 - 14 April
February 2014 Inspection: 2 - 8 February Sales: 9 - 15 February
June 2014 Inspection: 10 - 16 June Sales: 17 – 24 June
December Selling days 14-16
February 9-15
April 9-14
September 2014 Inspection: 1 – 7 September Sales: 8 – 15 September
June 17–24
September 8-15
Mink Black Mahogany Brown Glow Pearl Beige Golden Pearl White Sapphire Silverblue Black Cross Var. Cross Pastel Violet Blue Iris Jaguar Palomino Stardust Cinnamon Var. mutations Total mink
• • • • • • • • •
• • • • • • • • • • • •
• • • • • • • • • •
1.2 - 1.8m
6.0 - 7.0m
5.0 - 6.0m
• •
• •
• • • •
• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 5.0 - 6.0m
• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 3.5 - 4.5m
OTHER SKINS Chinchilla Rex Rabbits Swakara Foxes
• •
• • •
Breeders and breeders lowgrades will be offered at the June auction in types where the winter skins are also offered. Therefore, breeders in Pastel and Palomino will be offered in September. We reserve the right to make changes.
A PRIL 2014
27
Micillo stands for quality, making everything else just an accessory!
AC C E S S O R Y C R E ATO R S
micillo.it Visit our website 28
KOPENH AGEN F UR NE W S
copenhagen hotels
Admiral
Radisson Blu Royal
Toldbodgade 24,
Hammerichsgade
1253 K
1611 V
www.admiralhotel.dk
www.radissonblu.com
Crown Plaza HoteL
Radisson Blu
NEW cancellation policy for 2014 :
Scandinavia
For individual reservations you can change or cancel 48 hours prior to arrival, or you will be charged with the first night.
Amager Blv. 70,
For group reservations :
Ă˜restads Blvd. 114-118, 2300 S
2300 S www.crowneplaza.com
www.radissonblu.dk
hilton
Scandic CPH
Ellehammersvej 20,
Vester Søgade 6,
2770 Kastrup
1601 V
www3.hilton.com
www.scandichotels.com
First
Scandic Glostrup
Vesterbrogade 23-29,
Roskildevej 550,
1620 V
2600 Glostrup
www.firsthotels.com
www.scandichotels.com
Glostrup Park
Scandic Hvidovre
Hovedvejen 41,
Kettevej 4.
2600 Glostrup
2650 Hvidovre
www.parkhotel.dk
www.scandichotels.com
Marriott
Skt. Petri - 5 stars
Kalvebod Brygge 5,
Krystalgade 22,
1560 V
1172 K
www.marriott.com
www.firsthotels.com
Until 45 days before the first arrival, the reservation can be cancelled without any cost. After this date a maximum of 50% of the original reservation can be cancelled after the below mentioned rules: - Until 15 days before the first arrival, 50 % of the original reservation can be cancelled without any cost - Until 10 days before the first arrival, 25 % of the original reservation can be cancelled without any cost - Rooms not cancelled seven days before the first arrival will be charged 100 % Date changes will be accepted without any cost on the condition that the hotel has available rooms on the alternative dates. If the rooms, as a result of lack of available rooms, are cancelled, the hotel refers to the above listed cancellation terms.
Mayfair hotel Helgolands-gade 3, 1653 V www.clarionhotel.com
A PRIL 2014
We urge you to make your hotel reservations as early as possible.
29
Contact Kopenhagen Fur E-mail: mail@kopenhagenfur.com Phone: +45 4326 1000 fa x: +45 4326 1126
Management
ioe@kopenhagenfur.com kenneth loberg director of marketing and business development +45 4326 1201
Torben Nielsen CEO +45 4326 1042 (secr.)
Inge Ă˜stermand Secretary +45 4326 1042
Customer department
customers@kopenhagenfur.com Brian Tufvesson head of Customer dept.
Birgit friis Secretary
+45 4326 1401
+45 4326 1431
Christiane Rautenberg key Account manager +45 4326 1442
Annette hindborg key Account manager
Anne Lunn key Account manager
Ahmet Aydin key Account manager
+45 4326 1440
+45 4326 1443
+45 4326 1441
logistics department
anna K alituha market development manager +45 7213 5013
area managers
logistics@kopenhagenfur.com line spang shipping Manager
Line Jørgensen Logistics Manager
Andrej Rumjancev Area Manager, Russia
Leo Boutis Area Manager, Greece
+45 4326 1472
+45 4326 1469
+45 4326 1103
mob. +30 693 242 5858
Auctioneers
Beijing Office
Paul Pedersen Chief auctioneer
CHRIS CUI general manager
+45 4326 1203
mob. +86 139 1093 7964
Per Knudsen Chief auctioneer
Lisa Yu CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER
+45 4326 1208
mob. +86 139 1156 8019
Stig Reinhold Sales manager, auctioneer
angela Liu Customer Coordinator/Visa
+45 4326 1209
mob. +86 138 1055 4761
Klaus Harlev Auctioneer
andy chen MANUFACTURE COORDINATOR
+45 4326 1415
mob. +86 159 0143 7370
Kasper S. Reinbacher CONTROllER, Auctioneer +45 4326 1422
Inge liu MARKETING COORDINATOR Tsing hua mba mob. +86 139 0106 0450
lars Skjoldega ard Auctioneer
Reception/Booking
reception@kopenhagenfur.com K athrine engberg Front office manager
Line Jensen Receptionist
+45 4326 1112
+45 4326 1280
Quality department
qualit ydepartment@ kopenhagenfur.com
farmer service
farmerservice@ kopenhagenfur.com
Bjarne Rasmussen head of Quality dept.
jesper Lauge Christensen head of farmer service +45 4326 1376
+45 4326 1342
kopenhagen
KiCK
nexus
michael stadi DIRECTOR of KiCK
Julie Maria Iversen Head of Kopenhagen Nexus
+45 2268 0916
+45 2268 0974
+45 4326 1021
30
KOPENH AGEN F UR NE W S
OYSTER PERPETUAL COSMOGRAPH DAYTONA IN PLATINUM
David morgan
michael lepski
Jack felber
Infelber (Exports) Ltd 4 Elthorne Road, London N19 4AG Tel +44(20) - 7281 1966
E-mail info@infelber.com
Fax +44(20) - 7281 2398
Eurasia Furs Ltd Unit O, 10/Kaiser Estate Phase III 9-11A Hok Yuen Street, Hunghom, Kowloon, HK Tel +852 2311 9803 32
E-mail Eurasia88@biznetvigator.com
Fax +852 2721 3081 哥本哈根 皮草资讯