SE PTE M BE R 2 0 18
NEWS
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THE FIRST FASHION WEEKS OF THE SUMMER Fur trends on the catwalks
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Editorial
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Natural fur biodegrades as rapidly as an oak leaf
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News in brief
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Designer Edward Crutchley sees patterns in mink
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Tons of fur during the first fashion weeks of the summer
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Kopenhagen Furs Quality Department is the bridge between farmers and customers
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Panda housing on schedule
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Mink farmer with Chinchilla production
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Helping shape the future of the furrier trade
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Events in Copenhagen
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Auction Schedule 2018
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Contact Kopenhagen Fur
EDITOR IN CHIEF Jesper Uggerhøj EDITOR MIichael Abilon LAYOUT Yedda Zhang PRINT Rosendahls a/s ADVERTISING Kathrine Engberg / [+45] 4326 1062 The world’s biggest stars were gathered on relatively few square metres at the Louis Vuitton Spring 2019 Menswear Show in the Palais-Royal Garden in Paris on 21 June. A handful of Kopenhagen Fur representatives were there alongside famous stars such as Kanye West, Kim Kardashion and Rihanna, watching the debut of Virgil Abloh for Louis Vuitton. The rapidly rising designer presented a remarkable white fur jacket and several mink fur accessories such as handbags and scarves at the Louis Vuitton show.
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E D I TO R I A L
2018 - A CHALLENGING SALES SEASON
Kopenhagen Fur’s September auction is approaching. It is the fifth and last auction in a sales season that has been challenging for the entire fur trade; a trade that is still under pressure from previous years’ stockpiling in the wholesale and retail markets, influencing the demand throughout the sales season. Due to the current market situation and with our global market leadership role in mind, we chose to implement a firm sales policy at the June auction. We achieved a 70% sale of the 7.8 million mink offering, and it was probably higher than many had expected. From the trade we received recognition of our sales policy as a stabilizing factor in an uncertain market. Before the June auction, we also said that regular goods offered at the September auction would be sold at the same price level as similar goods sold in May and June. This policy will, of course, be implemented. We have not sold 100 percent throughout the sales season and, therefore, we have regular skins in stock. These skins will be offered at the September auction, so the total offering will reach 8.4 million mink skins, of which 3.4 million are regular skins. The
Jesper Uggerhøj, CEO, Kopenhagen Fur
KOPENHAGEN FUR’S SEPTEMBER AUCTION IS APPROACHING. IT IS THE FIFTH AND LAST AUCTION IN A SALES SEASON THAT HAS BEEN CHALLENGING FOR THE ENTIRE FUR TRADE.
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regular skins will as a minimum be sold at the same price level as that of the June auction, so the September auction does not destabilize the market. The remaining 5 million skins are breeders and lowgrades, which we have not previously offered this season. Here we will meet the market. The global production of mink skins is declining from 90 million skins in 2014 to an estimated 60 million skins in 2019. The market development in 2018 will lead to a further adjustment of the production so that we regain balance in the market. In the meantime, it is worth noting that fur is still very visible in fashion. Some fashion companies have recently declared themselves fur-free and this has caused reverberation in the international press. At times, you could almost get the impression that fur was a thing of the past. The fashion week with menswear and later the haute couture week in Paris showed that this is far from the case. The large and influential fashion houses still use fur that is both fashionable and the responsible and sustainable choice. It is very positive in a difficult time for the trade.
S U S TA I N A B I L I T Y
NATURAL FUR BIODEGRADES AS RAPIDLY AS AN OAK LEAF A new study compares natural and fake fur biodegradability. The results show that natural fur biodegrades rapidly even in landfill conditions without oxygen - as opposed to fake fur, which does not biodegrade at all.
Experts from the Organic Waste Systems laboratory in Ghent, Belgium, examined how real and fake fur degrade in conditions set up to simulate closed landfill conditions, so-called anaerobic biodegradation. The scientists ran the tests for 30 days, which in real life corresponds to between 4 and 40 years. The results were very clear. They showed that real fur – regardless whether dyed or natural colours of mink or fox – degrades, unlike fake fur, which remained intact. Absolutely nothing happened to the fake fur; it only changed from white to yellowish/grey. The bacteria could not feed on it because it is derived from fossil fuels – the carbon inside it is unusable. - Fake fur has been promoted as the sustainable alternative to natural fur but, in reality, it is highly polluting. An ethic concerned with the protection of individual animals is pointless, if the ecosystem where the animals live is destroyed, says Mark Oaten, CEO of IFF.
A reason to re-think The study also looked at the average biodegradation of a number of natural products and found that real fur degrades at the same rate as an oak leaf. - Brands like Gucci and Versace should re-think about ending their use of fur. If they really care about sustainability, they should read this study which clearly shows that natural fur is less harmful than fake fur when it ends up at a landfill. Anybody who wants to support sustainable fashion should think about the long-term impact of using plastic based products that will stay in landfill for decades, whereas, as this study shows, natural fur begins to biodegrade within days days, says Mark Oaten. According to the test results, the natural fur samples biodegraded as microorganisms consumed the carbon inside the fur. The fake fur however, showed no biodegradation, which according to the researchers was not
unexpected due to the composition of the synthetic fibres. In addition, synthetic fashion materials are known to break down into even smaller pieces, eventually forming microplast fibres, a contributor to plastic pollution. All this shows that, as a natural material, fur is more environmentally sustainable in terms of not only long-lasting abilities, but also as impact on the environment in comparison with fake fur, which is in practice a conventional plastic. The laboratory experiment, which was commissioned by IFF and Fur Europe, is part of an independent scientific review of the environmental performance of the fur sector that covers the entire value chain from farm to the end consumer – Fur’s Environmental Credentials (FEC).
By Heidi Cecilie Lorvik
K EY F I N D I N GS The laboratory test examining the biodegradation qualities of fur helps the fur sector to understand how fur contributes to climate change after it is disposed of at a landfill after years of use. • The scientific test showed that natural fur is less harmful to the environment than fake fur, which is a conventional plastic. • When the natural material fur reaches a landfill, it degrades. This means that micro-organisms can consume the carbon inside, using it for energy and growth. • On the other hand, fake fur is not biodegradable. With time it only breaks down into smaller pieces called microplastics that cause pollution. Fake fur is most often made from fossil fuel, which makes this process of biodegradation impossible. • In a landfill, natural fur biodegrades in a similar way to the leaves of oak, poplar and willow as well as straw.
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S U S TA I N A B I L I T Y
Undyed mink fur at start.
Undyed mink fur at end (30 days). The pieces were completely falling apart. Some skins were still left, but all strength had gone. Hairs detached very easily.
Fake fur at start.
Fake fur at end (30 days). The sample looked intact, only discoloration due to the digestate was observed.
A B O U T T H E S T U DY Background:• Fake fur has been promoted as the sustainable alternative to natural fur. • This laboratory experiment was commissioned to explore the biodegration of natural and fake fur in landfill conditions. • The experiment was conducted by Organic Waste Systems in Ghent, Belgium, a world leading company in the biodegradability of different types of materials. • The work was commissioned by the International Fur Federation and Fur Europe. Experiment:• The biodegradability of products in a sanitary landfill or in a solid state anaerobic digestion system is determined through high-rate dry anaerobic batch fermentation. • This method simulates and accelerates the biodegration process that takes place in landfill. • To evaluate the disintegration of a product in a sanitary landfill or in a solid-state disintegration system, test items are added to active inoculum and left to ferment. Each week a piece of test item was removed from the test reactors to assess the disintegration. • The tests were conducted on undyed and dyed mink and fox fur as well as fake fur. • The tests, which ran for 30 days, were performed according to ISO and ASTM standards (ISO 15985 / ASTM D5511). For further information including a copy of the report, factsheet and accompanying video please visit www.wearefur.com or www.fureurope.eu
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N EWS I N BR I E F
REMEMBER TO REGISTER - OUR NEW RECEPTION To facilitate an easy registration, please register beforehand via mail. Customers and buyers travelling from countries requiring a visa will benefit greatly from registering upon their arrival at Kopenhagen Fur. Customers and Buyers - How to register: Registration at the auctions is a two-step process that is both quick and easy. - Step one: Customers and buyers must register beforehand at www. kopenhagenfur.com or send an e-mail to customers@ kopenhagenfur.com. Please inform us how many guests you are bringing or intend to bring. - Step two: Customers and buyers are also required to register at the main entrance upon arrival. Buyers’ registration – How to register to get your buyer number for the sales: Buyers arriving during inspection or sales are required to register by signing the Buyer’s Register form as early as possible in order to receive their buyer number sign and have seats allocated in the auction room. As registration may take some time, please register well in advance of the sales. On inspection days, registration takes place in the Customer Department. On selling days, registration takes place in the Customer Service Counter in front of the auction room.
SILVERBLUE CROSS TOP LOT – THE NEW BLACK Mr Pan Hexin from the well-known Chinese brand, Golden Lady Furs, won the bid for the Silverblue Cross Male Top Lot at the June auction. It consisted of 50 skins and was sold for 2,600 DKK per skin. Mr Pan Hexin has been a customer at Kopenhagen Fur for two decades. His broker has attended the auctions for more than 20 years and, for this year, Mr Pan Hexin himself came to Glostrup. He has become more and more interested in top quality mink. - Golden Lady Furs has had a very good cooperation with Kopenhagen Fur for many years. This is where I can buy the best quality mink skins, which my customers are very interested in. Velvet sells well in my biggest stores in
Harbin and, with this Top Lot I can offer the very best quality to my customers, says Mr Pan Hexin. It was no coincidence that the Silverblue Cross Top Lot in particular caught his interest. - In the northeastern part of China people often choose black fur. But the demand for more unique fashionable styles has increased, so this time I wanted the Cross Top Lot. Besides being able to promote the Velvet mink quality in China, I will use the Top Lot for a fashionable style in our big store in Harbin that sells a lot of haute couture. It is a very good way to create unique fashion and let more customers become aware of this quality.
FOR CHINESE CUSTOMERS: E-MAIL ADDRESS WHEN APPLYING FOR VISA When requesting an invitation letter from Kopenhagen Fur in order to apply for a visa to visit Kopenhagen
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Fur’s auctions, please contact our Beijing Office at this e-mail address: visa@kopenhagenfur.cn.
N EWS I N BR I E F
TOP LOT FOR ONLINE BUSINESS
The Chinchilla Top Lot offered at the June auction was sold to Mr Hao Zhang from Man Mona, China, for 1,680 DKK per skin. Mr Hao Zhang is planning to use it for his online business. - We have an online shop in China selling fur garments and we want to promote the quality of the garments. In China, online garments in general are not very expensive, but we want to take it to a higher level. The quality of the products and a better and updated online service provides a high level of focus in our business. The quality garment that we are going to make from the Top Lot skins is important, but also the certificate that comes with the Top Lot. It has great value to be able to show it to our customers. Furthermore, Top Lot skins are important in order to teach our employees about the best
quality, says Mr Hao Zhang. Indeed, quality is important to Mr Hao Zhang and his business. He set out to get two Top Lots and bid on the Silverblue Cross Male Top Lot that went to Mr Pan Hexin. But there will be many more opportunities in the future for Mr Hao Zhang, who has just taken over the family business.
- I came to Kopenhagen Fur’s auction to learn and to buy the Top Lots. This is my first time here – this is the beginning. In the future, I can always be found at the auctions in Glostrup. My father has been running the business for a long time, and now it was the right time for me to take over. This first visit has been very exciting and the atmosphere in the auction room is very good.
JOIN OUR DIGITAL CATALOGUE TEST A new app for tablet and smartphone With our new digital auction catalogue, it is faster and easier than ever to get an overview of the entire auction programme. Search and filter thousands of lots, organise them in lists and add handwritten notes. You can even securely share lists with your contacts. You can log in with your WeChat account to search through upcoming skins on offer by type, quality grade, hair length, colour, quantity and more. Of course, you can also use a custom username if you prefer. Get the entire catalogue on your device Available directly on your tablet or smartphone, allowing an easy overview and simple navigation of all lots for sale at Kopenhagen Fur auctions.
Filter the catalogue Navigate easily through the sales programme by filtering the data according to your needs, allowing you to find exactly what you want.
Mark your favourites Create lists of your selected lots to keep track of those you wish to follow. Securely share your insights
POSTERSBe FOR sure THE only NEW yourSEASON customers and Take notes Record your notes directly on your device, either by typing or writing by hand.
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colleagues can see your notes on the lots for sale. Use the app to securely save and send them to your customers and colleagues.
N EWS I N BR I E F
CHRIS CUI TURNED 40 YEARS THE KOPENHAGEN FUR AUCTION APP It is no longer necessary to be present in the auction room to be completely updated on the latest skin prices. With the updated Kopenhagen Fur Auction app, customers can use the notification feature to receive notifications about prices every time a skin type has been sold.
Kopenhagen Fur congratulates Chris Cui, President of Kopenhagen Fur Beijing, on her 40th birthday. Chris is very hardworking and diligent, so naturally she spent the day working. Chris’ upbringing lay in the academic world. Her parents were geologists teaching at a university specializing in geology outside of Beijing. Her mother studies the formation of diamonds, while her father, studied minerals and
the sustainable use of minerals. Geology is the study of time and pressure – one that requires attention to details – and it is perhaps during her upbringing that Chris Cui learned to appreciate the focus on details. Whatever the cause, this is a trait Kopenhagen Fur has benefited from in the past and hopefully for years to come.
In addition, deviations will be calculated based on the selected currency - and not in DKK as previously. This means that customers and farmers alike can receive general information about the market price level as the auction takes place. The data in the app is updated continuously. In fact, viewers can see the sales figures shortly after the gavel has come down. All that is required is a smart phone or tablet with an internet connection. Good overview Apart from the updated sales figures, you can also read auction news, statistics and a listing of when the auctions are being held. The Auction app is available for all major platforms both in English and Chinese.
2018 CALENDAR IS AVAILABLE The 2018 calendar with this season’s auction dates is available in the service counters.
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N EWS I N BR I E F
A SEASONED TOP LOT BUYER KC Fur’s Li Rumei is no stranger when it comes to buying a Top Lot, having been bidding on them since 2015. This year, the North-eastern China fur powerhouse set its sights on buying a stunning bundle of White Velvet Female mink. - It’s said that in European history, white fur were worn exclusively by royalty to keep out the cold, much as the colour yellow was reserved for royalty in China, explained Li Rumei from KC Fur. - So we’ve chosen the White Velvet Mink Top Lot for its superior quality and to work with Danish designers to make a chic fur for a special customer, she says. KC Fur has been in the fur business for almost 30 years, and currently operates 10 stores in Northeast China, spread out
between Harbin, Jilin, and Liaoning, with another 30 stores in surrounding cities and counties. Online sales are also growing at 30% annually, giving the company a good insight into consumer desires. - Warm colours are a main popular trend, with natural colours in greater
demand, for example Palomino, Violet, and Light Purple,” says Li Rumei. In 2018, the group plans to open up five more stores in the Northeast as well as a flagship store in Beijing.
KOPENHAGEN FUR’S AUCTION SCHEDULE 2019 FOR THE 2018 SEASON, WE HAVE PRODUCED NEW FASHION POSTERS THAT WILL BE AVAILABLE IN THE SERVICE COUNTERS.
Our auction dates for 2019 are now determined. January 2019: Inspection: 19-23 January Sales: 24-28 January March 2019: Inspection: 11-18 March Sales: 19-26 March
POSTERS FOR THE NEW SEASON
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May 2019: Inspection: 26 April – 2 May Sales: 3-10 May June 2019: Inspection: 14-21 June Sales: 22 June – 1 July September 2019: Inspection: 26 August – 1 September Sales: 2-11 September
D ES I G N
DESIGNER EDWARD CRUTCHLEY SEES PATTERNS IN MINK
Textile guru Edward Crutchley stopped by Kopenhagen Fur Studio to get a crash-course on working with fur. The British born designer currently designs his own brand of intricately patterned garments that use novel materials as well as being a consultant for a number of international luxury brands. While at Kopenhagen Fur Studio, he made a full tracksuit top and bottom with intarsia patterning. We caught up with him to get his thoughts on working with mink. Fur News: What was it like working with Kopenhagen Fur Studio? Edward Crutchley: I had an extensive background in textiles but didn’t know about fur construction. To be able to work with the extremely high-quality fur that is available at Kopenhagen Fur and to be able to get an intro with the knowledgeable furriers was really eye opening. Fur News: What was your experience
TO BE ABLE TO WORK WITH THE EXTREMELY HIGH-QUALITY FUR THAT IS AVAILABLE AT KOPENHAGEN FUR AND TO BE ABLE TO GET AN INTRO WITH THE KNOWLEDGEABLE FURRIERS WAS REALLY EYE OPENING. working with mink before you came? EC: I had never worked with fur before. Fur News: You’re known for your pattern designs. Were you able to use those skills with fur? Fur News: Working with the furriers I
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got a chance to see that my work done in the past could be applied to fur and the results it could achieve. It’s only by playing around with the material physically that you begin to see everything you can do with it. For instance, you can play around with hair direction and hair length to create an effect. Fur News: So do you see fur trimmings as a way to make your patterns pop up? EC: I think of it in a very textile way. When I want to work with fur I want the whole thing to be covered in fur! Fur News: Would you like to work with fur in the future? EC: Definitely. I’d be very interested in getting the chance to come in and work with the furriers again.
By Ethan Kent Bilby
GLOBAL FUR LOGISTICS MODERN COLD STORAGE FACILITIES IN BEIJING, TONGERPU AND CAMBODIA
DENMARK
TONGERPU
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READY FOR DRESSING-AT YOUR CONVENIENCE
FOR MORE INFORMATION, PLEASE CONTACT:
Large shipment from Kopenhagen Fur to cold storage Small shipments from cold storage to dressing plant Collect your skins for dressing in just 48 hours
Shipping Department Kopenhagen Fur Langagervej 60 DK-2600 Glostrup Tel: +45 4326 1000 Email: shipping@kopenhagenfur.com
GOOD CHOICE FOR YOUR BUSINESS Shipment to warehouses before payment Very competitive all inclusive rates both to airport and cold storage Three months free storage in China and Cambodia
CONVENIENCE Track and trace your skins as they are being shipped to your selected destination One partner in Global Fur Logistics-door to door
SAFE Skins are kept under same quality conditions as in Kopenhagen Fur’s warehouse in Denmark Transparent and customs compliant set-up for entry of skins into China
Kopenhagen Fur, Beijing office Mrs. Ewin Chen, Customer Relations Manager Mobile: +8618600565067 Email: ewc@kopenhagenfur.com Customer Service Desk, Kopenhagen Fur (Beijing) Co.,Ltd Tel: +86 152-1020-7880 Email: gfl@kopenhagenfur.cn Damco, Hong Kong SAR, China Mr. Mark Cheng Tel: +852 2615 0264 Mobile: +852 9237 0502 Email: mark.cheng@damco.com
THE TREND HAS BEEN CLEAR AT THE LATEST FASHION WEEKS – FUR IS POPULAR AND IS APPEARING MORE AND MORE ON MALE MODELS.
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FAS H I O N W E E K
LOTS OF FUR DURING THE FIRST FASHION WEEKS OF THE SUMMER The trend has been clear at the latest fashion weeks – fur is popular and is appearing more and more on male models.
The world’s biggest stars were gathered on relatively few square metres at the Louis Vuitton Spring 2019 Menswear Show in the Palais-Royal Garden in Paris on 21 June. A handful of Kopenhagen Fur representatives were there alongside famous stars such as Kanye West, Kim Kardashion and Rihanna, watching the debut of Virgil Abloh for Louis Vuitton. Among the guests was Julie Maria Iversen, VP Design & Production at Kopenhagen Fur, who was impressed by the show and the fur styles for men. - Menswear and men’s fashion shows have created a new hype, and we are also seeing more and more creative fur design creations for men and increasing numbers of creative designers want to work with fur, so there are more fur for men than ever before, says Julie Maria Iversen. Beside a remarkable white fur jacket, there were several mink fur accessories such as handbags and scarves at the Louis Vuitton show. Marvellous mink The Louis Vuitton Spring 2019 Menswear Show was not the only one
THE WORLD’S BIGGEST STARS WERE GATHERED ON RELATIVELY FEW SQUARE METRES AT THE LOUIS VUITTON SPRING 2019 MENSWEAR SHOW IN THE PALAIS-ROYAL GARDEN IN PARIS ON 21 JUNE. with fur for men during the Men’s Fashion Week in Paris. The New York Designer Thom Browne drew the audience into a magical design universe with a string of colourful mink fur styles – including a marvellous green mink fur man’s coat with a quirky white lobster silhouette. Fur innovation On 4 July during Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week, Fendi held their
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traditional ‘Haute Fourrure’ show, dedicated to the most fantastic fur creations. Both Julie Maria Iversen and CEO Jesper Uggerhøj were among the audience admiring some of the finest fur designs imaginable. - I’m always amazed by the Fendi ‘Haute Fourrure’ shows. It is overwhelming to see so much beautiful fur design in one place, says Julie Maria Iversen. She is very clear when it comes to the general fur trend on the catwalks: - There is a great and wide fur appearance at the major fashion brands’ shows. Kopenhagen Fur increasingly collaborates with the most powerful fashion houses, because even the greatest brands seek new innovative ways to use fur in their designs and for that Kopenhagen Fur Studio is of course available, says Julie.
By Tess Tonsgaard Heidemann
Q U A L I T Y D E PA R T M E N T
KOPENHAGEN FUR’S QUALITY DEPARTMENT IS THE BRIDGE BETWEEN FARMERS AND CUSTOMERS
The Quality Department at Kopenhagen Fur performs a vital task. They bridge the gap between farmers and customers in the auction room or, to be more specific, they support the alignment between the demands of the market and the skins that the farmers produce, ensuring that the manufacturers get the skins that are in demand. This is a time consuming task that requires a lot of dialogue, a great deal of travelling and many hours of working with skins in the production halls at Kopenhagen Fur and on the farms. Kopenhagen Fur News had the opportunity to sit down with two staff members of the Quality Department: Bjarne Rasmussen, VP - Production & Quality, who focuses on production operations at Kopenhagen Fur and supervises the quality control, and Lone Lyhne Andersen, Technical Quality Manager, who supports the quality control work and also spends quite a lot of time in East Asia speaking with manufacturers, commissioners and many others. In touch with the value chain - In this department, we are in touch with large parts of the value chain. We assist the farmers, by helping them with
the selection of animals for breeding, for instance, and we also work together with Kopenhagen Fur’s consultants, to ensure alignment. - In addition to that, we lay down the parameters for the quality grading and ensure proper training of our graders, says Lone Lyhne Andersen. - We also speak with the customers about our grading and our collection of skins as well as what quality they prefer, adds Bjarne Rasmussen.
BECAUSE THE QUALITY DEPARTMENT IS ON THE BRIDGE BETWEEN FARMERS AND CUSTOMERS, THEY CONSTANTLY REMIND THEMSELVES TO SEE PERSPECTIVES FROM BOTH SIDES, PUTTING A HEAVY EMPHASIS ON DIALOGUE. 16
Lone Lyhne Andersen also travels extensively in Asia, where she has evaluated cold storage facilities and visited dressing factories, a relatively new area of focus for the Danish auction house. - When our department talks to customers in East Asia about the type and quality of skins the market demands, or to representatives from the dressing and dyeing sector about pelting quality, we make sure that that information is passed on to our farmers. That helps the farmers to be in the forefront when it comes to adapting to trends and market demands, she says. The demands of the market Because the Quality Department is the bridge between farmers and customers, they constantly remind themselves to see perspectives from both sides, putting a heavy emphasis on dialogue. - The fur trade has experienced an influx of new customers. It is important that we also pass on knowledge of our work and our work processes to them so that they understand the work that goes into creating high quality products, says Bjarne Rasmussen. It is important to avoid miscommunication and ensure that new customers receive important
Q U A L I T Y D E PA R T M E N T
The Quality Department ensures that knowledge flows from the customers to the farmers and back again.
knowledge about Kopenhagen Fur. In order to do this, the Quality Department also assists the Customer Department when grading courses are offered. - In the end, everyone aims at pleasing the manufacturers because they are the ones who meet the demands of the market, says Bjarne Rasmussen. Help in both directions The Quality Department also aims at helping farmers to meet the demands of the market. On courses for farmers, during assessment of animals and at skin exhibitions, both the small, local exhibitions and the world’s largest skin
exhibition held annually in Denmark. In addition, the Quality Department supports Farmer Service when they arrange the annual Farmer Day, when high-quality pelting is in focus. - At these events, we talk to the farmers and show them how skins have developed over the years – the size of the skins, the length of the guard hairs etc. We can explain what customers want and our farmers can adjust accordingly, says Lone Lyhne Andersen. The feedback that the Quality Department passes on to Kopenhagen Fur Consulting and the farmers is
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quickly assimilated by the farmers. - It amazes me that our fur farmers can adjust so quickly. They listen intently. These results are possible thanks to our work with the rest of the quality group at Kopenhagen Fur, says Bjarne Rasmussen. And the numbers speak for themselves. In 2009, approx. 66 % of the skins offered at Kopenhagen Fur’s auctions were Classic, 2 % were Velvet 2 and approx. 32 % were Velvet 1. Now, approx. 44 % are Velvet 2 and 42 % Velvet 1 and only 13 % Classic. By Michael Abilon
PA N DAS O N T H E I R WAY
PANDA HOUSING ON SCHEDULE The construction of the new panda housing is well underway and keeping up with the schedule, says Jørgen Nielsen, CEO at Copenhagen Zoo.
In April 2019, Copenhagen Zoo will present the brand-new panda housing to the public and, maybe more importantly, its new residents, the two pandas: Mao Sun and He Xing. - We are extremely excited to launch this housing and it will be a great event for us and for Denmark, says Jørgen Nielsen, CEO at Copenhagen Zoo. The panda housing has been designed by the world-famous Bjarke Ingels Group architecture company BIG. Bjarke Ingels has designed the pandas’ future home inspired by the Chinese Yin and Yang symbol, which has caused quite a lot of attention in China. Copenhagen Zoo is building a network According to Jørgen Nielsen, Copenhagen Zoo is grateful to all the Danish companies for their contribution to this new panda housing. He is looking forward to collaborating with all the sponsors. Copenhagen Zoo is currently working on setting up a business network for the contributors anchored in the zoo.
COPENHAGEN ZOO IS GRATEFUL TO ALL THE DANISH COMPANIES FOR THEIR CONTRIBUTION TO THIS NEW PANDA HOUSING.
- We want to create some value for our sponsors and not just receive their money. We want to be the new meeting point for the industry and create a network for innovation and mutual inspiration, he says. In April next year, when the pandas move in, he hopes to see all the major sponsors for the grand opening. He hopes for a photo of all the Chinese diplomats, the sponsors and maybe even the Danish Prime Minister and Minister of Culture all together at the opening. CEO Jørgen Nielsen calls the new panda housing a “World class housing”. - It represents the best of architecture and the best quality animal welfare, he says and adds: - We are building this housing for our animals, our guests and our sponsors as a window to China and the Chinese fauna.
thawing Chinese bamboo in different ways. The bamboo will be frozen during transport from China to Denmark and finally thawed at the zoo. After much research, the proper procedure was found, one that the pandas approved of. However, naturally, the bamboo from China is only a supplement. To ensure a low environmental impact, most of the bamboo will be grown in the southern part of Denmark.
Proper panda feed The new panda housing, shaped like the Yin and Yang symbol, will allow the pandas to roam freely between the outdoor and indoor enclosures. A lot of preparations have been made for their arrival. Besides developing the new panda residence, the feeding of the pandas has been a challenge. They both eat approx. 30 kilos of bamboo every day and are quite particular as to what kind of bamboo they will eat - normally only fresh bamboo. So, Copenhagen Zoo conducted extensive research that involved freezing and
• Mao Sun, the female, was born on 26 July in 2014. ‘Sun’ means Bamboo from the bamboo-sort ‘Mao’. • He Xing, the male, was born on 23 July in 2013. ‘Xing’ means wealth and ‘He’ is the family name. • They come from Chengdu Panda Base located in China. • Pandas are able to begin breeding from the age of five, which is their age when moving to Copenhagen Zoo.
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By Sophie Kastrup Andersen
FAC T S : A B O U T T H E PA N DAS
PA N DAS O N T H E I R WAY
The panda housing is under construction. When completed, the entire facility will resemble the Chinese Yin and Yang symbol.
FAC T S : A B O U T T H E PA N DA H O U S I N G Copenhagen Zoo’s coming panda housing was designed by BIG Architects and Schønherr Landscape architects. The panda housing was inspired by the Chinese Yin and Yang symbol featuring a circular shape on different levels. Architect Bjarke Ingels explains about the ideas behind the panda housing at the panda ceremony in Copenhagen Zoo. - Even though the panda seems to be a peace-loving animal, which it is, it is also very solitary and needs its own space. Therefore, we had to make two separate habitats that come together as one unified panda habitat: one for him and one for her. To us, this sounded very much like Yin and Yang, so we created this circular habitat, said Bjarke Ingels in the autumn of 2017, when the first sod was turned.
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CHINCHLLA
MINK FARMER WITH CHINCHILLA PRODUCTION It was more or less a coincidence that mink farmer Rasmus Rasmussen added Chinchilla to his mink production. One day in January 2017, he saw an advert in the newspaper; a Chinchilla farmer had decided to sell all his animals along with some of the farm equipment. The following day, Rasmus Rasmussen added the title of Chinchilla farmer to his CV.
Rasmus Rasmussen had spoken to his farm employees who look after his mink about what fun it could be to breed Chinchillas as well. So, when he saw the advert, he moved fast. He purchased 50 Chinchilla females and 150 kits for his farm. Rasmus Rasmussen has renovated and insulated an old stable on his farm, so it is perfectly suitable for the Chinchilla production. The stable was previously not in use which did not please him. - I do not like empty buildings, said Rasmus Rasmussen laughing, which is obvious when you visit his farm where every room or barn is dedicated to breeding fur animals. In his Chinchilla stable, cages are placed in long rows with small notes attached to each cage with information about the number of kits the females have given birth to. For Rasmus Rasmussen, it is almost impossible to walk past without studying the notes carefully. - Look, she gave birth this morning, he says enthusiastically. Chinchillas are kept in polygamy
Chinchilla cages, which means that more females share one male. The males can move freely between several cages via a walkway with small hatches, while the females have a collar that makes it impossible to enter the polygamy walkway. Even though Rasmus Rasmussen and his people started on a small scale, it has always been his goal to run the production in a professional manner; to let it grow and become financially viable. He has yet to pelt some of the animals, but he hopes to have skins on auction soon. Rasmus Rasmussen knows several mink farmers who have also started with
IT IS NOT AN EASY JOB. IT TAKES A LOT OF TIME TO MAKE GOOD SKINS 20
Chinchilla. - Many who work with these animals call it a hobby next to their main job, he says. A manual process The one thing that has surprised Rasmus the most is how much work is involved in taking care of the small soft animals. Everything is done manually. Every morning, he goes from cage to cage with a small feed shovel and gives each Chinchilla its feed pills. When there are kits, they must be fed twice a day. When the Chinchillas need access to a sand bath, he walks past all the cages and opens the bathrooms that are mounted on the cages. After this, he does the entire trip again to close the cage doors, so the fine sand does not become dirty and mixed with hay. If the females are unable to care for their kits themselves, they are transferred to another Chinchilla female. When it comes to Chinchilla, there are many tasks that require attention and no shortcuts or machines that can make the care of the Chinchillas easier.
CHINCHLLA
Rasmus Rasmussen with one of his many Chinchillas.
- It is not an easy job. It takes a lot of time to make good skins, says Rasmus, who has hired a young woman to help take care of the Chinchillas. He hopes that a little female care will be good for the animals. A sensitive stomach Rasmus is surprised by the highly sensitive digestive system that Chinchillas have. Chinchillas do not have a stomach sack and cannot regurgitate. Therefore, it is important to use high quality feed and pay attention to their digestion.
- I thought they would be easy to take care of, but they’re not; they are delicate. In addition to being spoiled with raisins, the animals also get homemade green hay from Rasmus’s own fields. It is harvested in summer and dried and heat treated. He believes that it has a good effect on the animals and especially their skins. At the moment, he has approx. 600 females but will not rule out the possibility of an expansion; it depends on the market prices. They are not as expensive as mink to
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keep – not when it comes to feed and space, but they require individual and manual care, which costs in man hours. However, caring for Chinchillas is not all hard work. - The best thing about caring for them is that it is enjoyable, he says while feeding another raisin to a Chinchilla.
By Sofie Kastrup Andersen
FU R R I E R PORTRAIT
HELPING SHAPE THE FUTURE OF THE FURRIER TRADE For Sofie Merete Erichsen, Senior Furrier at Kopenhagen Fur Studio, it is a joy and an exciting challenge to work with fur, but also to work with the young furrier apprentices. She guides them and watches their development in their course of their training.
Sofie Merete Erichsen has been working in the fur trade as a furrier for almost 20 years and she works at Kopenhagen Fur Studio as the Senior Furrier where she is responsible for the training of new furrier apprentices. This is a job, she enjoys because the apprentices’ many challenging questions keep her skills updated. - When apprentices ask me about the whys and wherefores I must revaluate my perspectives on how to work with fur. That keeps me on my toes, says the Senior Furrier. Sofie has been working as a furrier at Kopenhagen Fur Studio for 10 years and, over the years she has been a part of a wide variety of projects, such as teaching at the University Programme, development of the Studio Collection and brand collaborations. Last year, she was appointed Senior Furrier and in charge of the apprentices’ training as well. - I have always worked with apprentices on our many projects, so the tutor role was natural for me when I
took over the supervision of them. I consider myself patient and pedagogical, which helps me a lot when I teach, she says. The furrier apprentices go through different training periods that vary depending on their educational background. The full training lasts three years and nine months, but the majority of students train for approx. two years due to their background and merits.
- I AM NOT INTERESTED IN THE OLD-FASHIONED WAY OF TEACHING. I DON’T WANT APPRENTICES TO MAKE COFFEE AND SWEEP THE FLOOR.
- I’m glad that Kopenhagen Fur takes on the responsibility of educating furriers of the future. Being responsible for their education gives me the opportunity to bolster their knowledge, and I’m very proud of them, she adds. Part of a team For Sofie it is important that the apprentices try to step out of the role as students when they work at Kopenhagen Fur Studio. In order to do this, they need to feel part of a team that works together and supports each other throughout various work processes and tasks. - That is tremendously important. We work creatively and generate new ideas every day. I want the apprentices to feel that their input is just as valid as that of more experienced colleagues. - I am not interested in the old-fashioned way of teaching. I don’t want apprentices to make coffee and sweep the floor; I want to challenge them with professional tasks and see their knowledge and skills grow over
S O F I E ’ S B AC KG R O U N D - I began as a menswear tailor but, during my training, Thomas Andersen, the former Head of Kopenhagen Fur Studio, taught at my school. He introduced fur and I thought the material was really interesting. I found that it was challenging to work with and requires you to work in three dimensions to consider the hair length and hair direction, says Sofie Merete Erichsen, Senior Furrier at Kopenhagen Fur Studio. She decided to complete her training as a tailor but began training as a furrier shortly after. She was an apprentice at Birger Christensen in Denmark and completed the training in 2000. Then she worked as a freelancer and collaborated with Kopenhagen Fur Studio on several occasions until 2008, when Thomas Andersen, who had initially inspired her to pursue her furrier ambitions, offered her a full-time position at the Studio.
2 22 2
FU R R I E R PORTRAIT
From left: Apprentice Malin Sofia Lindqvist, who will graduate as a furrier in November, and Senior Furrier Sofie Merete Erichsen, who supervises the furrier education at Kopenhagen Fur Studio.
time together with their confidence, she says. She puts a heavy emphasis on a stress-free environment. Naturally, a busy work schedule is expected anywhere but, for educational purposes, Sofie finds it valuable to balance the apprentices’ work to the extent as far as she can. - People learn much better when they are not stressed, you need to give them time to grow. Students are different, some are creative and yet quiet, but everyone can gain confidence from knowledge if they are given time, she
adds. Carry their own weight Throughout the years, Sofie has seen several apprentices complete their training at Kopenhagen Fur Studio. The paths the young furriers take after graduation is as different as they are. Some return to school to gain even more skills, some start working in the trade and others even travel the world. - The fur trade is small, and our paths often cross again at a later stage. I consider it positive if they leave us to gain other experience. Sometimes it
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might be difficult to adjust to being a fully-fledged furrier after being an apprentice for a few years, she reflects. Kopenhagen Fur Studio currently has two apprentices, Malin Sofia Lindqvist, who will graduate as a furrier in November, and newcomer Josefine Praest Pedersen, who joined Kopenhagen Fur Studio last August. - I am so happy that we are able to attract talented young people. They are the future of the fur trade, says Sofie Merete Erichsen. By Michael Abilon
E V E N T S I N C O P E N H AG E N
23 AUGUST - 11 SEPTEMBER 2018 CONCERT
JOHANN-STRAUSS KONZERT-GALA Experience world-class ballet, symphony and Viennese waltz when there is ‘Johann Strauss Gallakoncert’ with K & K Philharmoniker and K & K Ballett at The Opera. K & K Philharmoniker has been called Europe’s best tour orchestra. Since 1996, when this Johann Strauss tour took the European concert hall for the first time, the concert series has entertained over one million music lovers.
2 SEPTEMBER CONCERT
RUSSIAN NATIONAL ORCHESTRA & REPIN The Russian National Orchestra is one of the world’s best orchestras. Its ambition is to mix the best of Russian tradition with the best of the rest of the world - creating an orchestra with a modern and colourful sound. Mikhail Pletnev formed the orchestra in 1990. With this concert they have the Russian super violinist Vadim Repin, who plays Bruch’s violin concert.
30 AUGUST Tivoli tivoli.dk
The Opera operaen.dk
ENTERTAINMENT
BRUCE DICKINSON – SPOKEN WORD Experience a charismatic storyteller full of humor and insight, when Iron Maiden’s heavy metal legend, Bruce Dickinson, talks about his amazing career and the projects he’s participating in. Besides being a singer in one of the world’s biggest bands, Bruce Dickinson also has lots of success as a pilot. He is also involved in an airship project that tries to produce a flying hybrid plane and part of Pouncer, the amazing drone plane designed to deliver food to impassable places.
8 SEPTEMBER DR Concert Hall drkoncerthuset.dk
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BALLET
GISELLE The beautiful Giselle has two men in her life. One wants her, the other she wants. She is deeply in love with the young duke Albrecht, but it is the founder Hilarion who worships her. Albrecht is already engaged to the bourgeois daughter Bathilde. When Giselle finds out, she loses her mind and dies in Albrecht’s arms. Giselle resurrects as a dying nymph, and it all goes wrong when the two men meet her in the afterlife.
31 AUGUST AND 1 SEPTEMBER The Royal Theatre, Old Stage Kglteater.dk
E V E N T S I N C O P E N H AG E N
23 AUGUST - 11 SEPTEMBER 2018
EXHIBITION
VAN GOGH Arken opens a wide-ranging exhibition of Van Gogh’s works with a focus on the relations among art, humanity, nature and religion. The exhibition will feature 28 paintings and 11 drawings showing farm labourers and landscapes from Arles.
1 SEPTEMBER 2018 – 20 JANUARY 2019 Arken Museum arken.dk
CONCERT
COMEDY
NICK MASON – SAUCERFUL OF SECRETS
KEVIN HART – THE IRRESPONSIBLE TOUR
The drummer and composer Nick Mason is one of the founders of Pink Floyd, and the only member who has been with the British group since the very beginning. Nick Mason has played on all the group’s albums and at all Pink Floyd’s concerts. He comes to Copenhagen and plays early songs from Pink Floyd’s backdrop catalogue. It will be a unique opportunity to experience the early Pink Floyd tracks live and the concerts have got excellent reviews after the tour in England. Very few bands have been as influential as Pink Floyd and they are one of the best-selling bands in the world with more than 250 million albums sold.
Comedian, actor, author, comedy mogul and businessman, Kevin Hart is one of the greatest and funniest entertainers in the world. He wears more hats than most - and the audience can look forward to experiencing Kevin Hart wearing all of them.
3 SEPTEMBER Forum Forumcopenhagen.dk
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Moreover, Kevin Hart has appeared in more than 20 movies including Little Fockers, Death at a Funeral and Fool’s Gold.
5 SEPTEMBER Royal Arena Royalarena.dk
SCANDIC KØDBYEN Check out the new Scandic Kødbyen and stay in one of the trendiest areas in Copenhagen, with bars, nightclubs, galleries, and restaurants clustered around traditional butcheries that still operate in this setting. It’s full of life and the talk of the town. The hotel is designed to blend into the local surroundings. Its low buildings and distinctive look compliment the meatpacking district, yet injects new life to the area. The hotel embraces everything and everyone. You’ll discover the energy, intimacy, and space for inspiring encounters. All rooms are decorated with Nordic decor, with an eye to making the rooms feel like home and perfect for a good night’s sleep. You can hang out in the hotel’s spacious lounge, or work in peace while you contemplate the world over a great cup of coffee from the hotel café. Here you’ll find cosy spaces, creative corners and casual sofas where you can enjoy your own company, meet other people, or just take a break from business or urban explorations. The hotel will open on September 7th 2018 – but you can book your room already now through Kopenhagen Fur. We are looking forward to seeing you!
SC H E D U L E
KOPENHAGEN FUR AUCTION SCHEDULE & OFFERINGS 2018 INSPECTION AUCTION
FEBRUARY
MARCH
APRIL-MAY
JUNE-JULY
AUGUST-SEPT
02-06
10-16
26-1
14-21
25-01
07-11
17-23
2-9
22-01
2-11
MINK Black Brown Mahogany Pastel Pearl Beige Golden Pearl Silverblue Sapphire Violet Palomino White Black Cross Silverblue Cross Sapphire Cross Pearl/Palomino Cross Various Cross Redglow Blue Iris Jaguar Stardust Various mutations OTHER TYPES Chinchilla Rex Rabbit Foxes Swakara
Breeders and Breeders Lowgrades will be offered in June in the types and sizes where regular winterskins are also available.
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HOTEL KONG ARTHUR
COURTYARDS IBSENS HOTEL
VIVACIOUS, qUIRKY AND COmFORTABLE BOUTIqUE HOTELS IN COPENHAGEN Ibsens and Kong Arthur are a blend of old and new: The interior design are modern, but the original character of the old buildings are beautifully preserved. There’s a buzzy lounge/bar area, and outside seating in the courtyard. Hotel Kong Arthur has a spa and fitness room. Two in-house restaurants are serving both hotels – Pintxos, serving up good tapas, and the more upmarket La Rocca, with a menu of Italian classics. For breakfast both hotels feature a mostly organic buffet spread that follows New Nordic principles, concentrating on seasonal, sustainable and local produce. Book through Kopenhagen Fur. 28
COPENHAGEN HOTELS
COPENHAGEN ISLAND
TIVOLI HOTEL
Kalvebod Brygge 53,
Arni Magnussons Gade
1560 København V
2, 1577 København
www.arp-hansen.dk
www.arp-hansen.dk
ADMIRAL
RADISSON BLU ROYAL
Toldbodgade 24,
Hammerichsgade
1253 K
1611 V
www.admiralhotel.dk
www.radissonblu.com
RADISSON BLU
Ørestads Blvd. 114-118,
SCANDINAVIA
2300 S
Amager Blv. 70,
www.crowneplaza.
2300 S
com
www.radissonblu.com
Nørre Søgade 11, 1370 København K www.arthurhotels.dk
FIRST
For individual reservations you can change or cancel 48 hours prior to arrival, or you will be charged with the first night. For group reservations :
CROWN PLAZA HOTEL
HOTEL KONG ARTHUR
Cancellation policy for 2018 :
SCANDIC CPH Vester Søgade 6, 1601 V www.scandichotels. com
SCANDIC GLOSTRUP Roskildevej 550,
Vesterbrogade 23-29,
2600 Glostrup
1620 V
www.scandichotels.
www.firsthotels.com
com
GLOSTRUP PARK
SCANDIC HVIDOVRE
Hovedvejen 41,
Kettevej 4.
2600 Glostrup
2650 Hvidovre
www.parkhotel.dk
www.scandichotels.com
MARRIOTT
SKT. PETRI - 5 STARS
Kalvebod Brygge 5,
Krystalgade 22,
1560 V
1172 K
www.marriott.com
www.firsthotels.com
MAYFAIR HOTEL
BELLA SKY COMWELL Center Boulevard 5,
Helgolandsgade 3,
2300 S
1653 V
www.bellaskycomwell.
www.clarionhotel.com
com
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Until 45 days before the first arrival, the reservation can be cancelled without any cost. After this date a maximum of 50% of the original reservation can be cancelled after the below mentioned rules: - Until 15 days before the first arrival, 50 % of the original reservation can be cancelled without any cost - Until 10 days before the first arrival, 25 % of the original reservation can be cancelled without any cost - Rooms not cancelled seven days before the first arrival will be charged 100 % Date changes will be accepted without any cost on the condition that the hotel has available rooms on the alternative dates. If the rooms, as a result of lack of available rooms, are cancelled, the hotel refers to the above listed cancellation terms.
We urge you to make your hotel reservations as early as possible.
C O N TAC T S - F O R C U S T O M E R S MANAGEMENT
ioe@kopenhagenfur.com
Jesper Lauge Christensen Exec. V.P. Commercial + 45 4326 1207
Jesper Uggerhøj CEO +45 4326 1042
Inge Østermand Secretary +45 4326 1042
CUSTOMER DEPARTMENT
Uffe Winther CFO / Exec. V.P. Finance & IT +45 2268 0969 customer@kopenhagenfur.com
Brian Tufvesson Head of Customer Dept.
Birgit Friis Secretary
+45 4326 1401
+45 4326 1431
Christiane Rautenberg Key Account Manager +45 4326 1442
Anne Lunn Key Account Manager
Ahmet Aydin Key Account Manager
Louise Heimann Key Account Manager
+45 4326 1443
+45 4326 1441
+45 7213 5028
Paul Pedersen Chief Auctioneer
Per Knudsen Chief Auctioneer
Klaus Harlev Auctioneer
+45 4326 1203
+45 4326 1208
Stig Reinhold Sales Manager, Auctioneer +45 4326 1209
Kasper S. Reinbacher VP, International Sales +45 4326 1422
Lars Skjoldegaard Auctioneer
James Han Head of Logistic
Violette Zhang Head of Communication +86 186 1830 1827
Annette Hindborg Key Account Manager +45 4326 1440
AUCTIONEERS
+45 4326 1415
+45 4326 1021
BEIJING OFFICE Chris Cui President of Kopenhagen Fur China +86 139 1093 7964
Felix Yan Head of Sales and Marketing +86 186 1006 6081
+86 136 9367 8524
Andy Chen Head of Administration +86 159 0143 7370
GLOBAL FUR LOGISTICS Søren Valentin Coo & Executive Vice President +45 2268 0920
MARKETING Henriette Glæsel V.P. Marketing + 45 2476 9177
QUALITY DEPARTMENT Kim Baruel Erichsen Quality Manager + 45 4326 1310
shipping@kopenhagenfur.com
Christian Sander V.P. Supply Chain
Line Spang Shipping Manager
Nina Agerlin Burchard Shipping Coordinator
+45 2795 7057
+45 4326 1472
+45 7213 2842
KOPENHAGEN FUR STUDIO Julie Maria Iversen V.P. Design & Creativity +45 2268 0974
AREA MANAGERS Andrej Rumjancev Area Manager, Russia +45 4326 1103
RECEPTION/BOOKING
qualitydepartment@kopenhagenfur.com
Lone Lyhne Technical Quality Manager +45 2268 0991
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Leo Boutis Area Manager, Greece +30 693 242 5858 reception@kopenhagenfur.com
Annette Marie Egerup Receptionist
Line Jensen Receptionist
+45 4326 1062
+45 4326 1280
C O N TAC T S - F O R FA R M E R S E-mail: farmerservice@kopenhagenfur.com Phone: +45 4326 1255
FARMERSERVICE
fax: +45 4326 1299
Louise Weile V.P. sales/Farmer relations
Peter Smit Area Manager North America
Tel: +45 43 26 14 04 Mobile: +45 22 68 09 26 ldw@kopenhagenfur.com
Mobile: +31 621 143637 psm@kopenhagenfur.com
Christine Otzen Market Coordinator
Per Knudsen Area Manager North America
Tel: +45 43 26 12 04 cot@kopenhagenfur.com
Tel: +45 43 26 12 08 Mobile: +45 22 68 09 08 pk@kopenhagenfur.com
PROMPT DAY
Bryan Flinn DSV Air & Sea Inc. - Halifax P.O. Box 28056 Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, B2W 6E2 Canada Tel: 902-433-2025 Mob: 902-402-4599 Fax: 902-433-1068 bryan.flinn@ca.dsv.com www.dsv.com
Prompt day of the September auction is Tuesday, 2 October 2018.
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DAVID MORGAN
MICHAEL LEPSKI
JACK FELBER
Infelber (Exports) Ltd 4 Elthorne Road, London N19 4AG Tel +44(20) - 7281 1966
E-mail info@infelber.com
Fax +44(20) - 7281 2398
Eurasia Furs Ltd Unit O, 10/Kaiser Estate Phase III 9-11A Hok Yuen Street, Hunghom, Kowloon, HK Tel +852 2311 9803
E-mail Eurasia88@biznetvigator.com 32
Fax +852 2721 3081