In 2005, Kopenhagen Fur established the creative workshop Kopenhagen Studio. The Studio is part of KiCK – Kopenhagen International Center for Creativity – and is situated in central Copenhagen. At Kopenhagen Studio, furriers, designers and students have an opportunity to explore and develop ideas and techniques for using fur. Kopenhagen Studio was founded with the objective of providing better support for fur design and innovation within fur use. To this end, some of the world’s most prestigious and established designers, representatives from other creative industries and up-and-coming talents are invited to work with Kopenhagen Studio’s skilled in-house furriers. Through these collaborations, designers get better insights into fur and find new, creative ways of using this exciting material. To further support innovation, Kopenhagen Studio also cooperates with the world’s leading design schools in training young designers and showing them the many possibilities of fur. These collaborations challenge the traditional perceptions of what can be made out of fur. The development of new techniques means that fur is now found in haute couture, prêt-à-porter and street fashion. In addition to Kopenhagen Studio in Copenhagen, there is also a Kopenhagen Studio in Beijing. Since the beginning both Studios have had remarkable results. Students from Tsinghua Kopenhagen Studio have won an impressive number of design prizes, while the results of Kopenhagen Studio’s design collaborations can be seen at the international fashion weeks in New York, London, Milan and Paris.
www.kopenhagenfur.com
Fur Techniques by Kopenhagen Fur 2014 • 2015
Fur Techniques by Kopenhagen Fur 2014 • 2015
At Kopenhagen Studio our creative furriers work each day to challenge the traditional perceptions of what it is possible to make out of fur. In addition to the luxurious feel and the obvious qualities of providing warmth, fur is a very versatile material to work with. The possibilities are almost endless and it is tempting to say that the only limit is the imagination. With this catalogue of step-by-step techniques, we give you Kopenhagen Studio’s take on how current trends in the world can be interpreted into new fur techniques. You will find a variety of techniques; some suitable for full fur styles, some suitable for accessories and some suitable for combining fur with other materials. As the core of our daily work, all techniques were developed with a strong focus on craftsmanship and detail.
Nomad
This technique gives the fur a different and surprising structure and is thus perfect for adding depth and playing with nuances in fuller fur styles.
1. Mark out a 2x2 cm grid pattern on the bottom half of the skin
2. Cut out random figures in the marked out pattern
3. With a pair of scissors cut out pieces in a wool fabric to match the figures you have made in the fur
4. Stitch fur and wool figures together on a fur machine
5. Moisten the back of the fur and wool and let it absorb for a few minutes
6. On a board mark out lines according to the stitched together figures and follow these lines while nailing the skin
7. Take down the skin from the nailing board
8. Steam and cart the fur
9. Front and back of finished technique
street
This technique adds a young and more urban look to a fur style. Depending on the colours and the chosen template shape, the technique can take on many variations.
1. Make a template of the wanted shape. Transfer the pattern to the back of the skin and the leather
2. Cut out the pattern with a fur knife
3. Cut out the leather with a pair of scissors
4. Make marks on the back of the pattern parts before stitching together
6. Moisten the skin with water and a brush
5. Stitch together on a fur machine
7. Nail the skin onto a board
8. Finished technique
crater
A quite simple but none the less effective technique, which has many variations. The cotton batting gives a sturdiness to the fabric, making it suitable for adding character to a style.
1. You will need a mink skin, a piece of fabric (same size as the skin), template with the wanted quilting pattern and transfer-paper
2. Transfer the quilting pattern onto the fabric
3. Stitch cotton batting and fabric onto the fur
4. Stitching is done from reverse following the marked-out pattern on the fabric
5. The reverse of the finished technique
6. Damp the fur, but do not cart it. Finished technique
pixel
This technique is well suited for using up smaller pieces of fur. The possible looks created by the technique are almost endless, depending on which layout you choose for the pieces.
1. Choose your preferred colours. Make a 2x2cm pattern and colour graduate the pattern
2. Cut out strings of 2 cm width
3. When everything is placed in the wanted pattern, stitch together the strings
4. Stitch one string at a time, make sure to place the neck of the skin at the top, and the bottom furthest down. If you want the hair length to fit, use skins from the same lot
5. Stitch the strings together cross-wise to form a plate
6. Adapt the wanted colour of mink skin at top and bottom – in this case white
7. Nail everything onto a nailing board according to the pattern
8. The finished technique
wood
This technique imitates the structure of bark, giving the fur a lighter touch along with adding reversibility to the fabric.
1. On the back of the skin mark out lines lengthwise. This technique is made with strings of 0,7 mm width.
2. Cut out the strings
3. Turn over every other string so that it will be respectively fur and leather
4. Press out the seam entirely
5. Nail up the skin using a ruler to secure the straightness of the strings
6. Moist and cart the fur thoroughly
7. Leather and fur is now distributed evenly and thus reversible
8. The finished technique
arctic
This technique gives you a perfect opportunity for exploring the possibilities of expressions that create an effect, which emerge from combining different fur types.
1. Choose the wanted skin types – in this case fox, mink and seal. Make a template of the pattern and transfer the pattern to the back of the skin
2. Before cutting out the pattern fix the necessary parts with bonding tape. Afterwards cut out the pattern
3. Place and collect the pattern parts in the right places and stitch together on a fur machine
4. Prepare a board for nailing up the technique by marking out the pattern on the board
5. Moisten the technique from the reverse and let it absorb for a couple of minutes
6. Nail the skin on a board after the already drawn pattern
7. Cut the sides of the technique to align
8. The finished technique
avantgarde
This technique makes it possible to combine beautiful fur cutouts with lighter fabrics. Perfect for adding furry details to elegant dresses and other feminine styles.
1. Place the pattern and mark out the reverse of the skin
2. Cut out bonding glue to fit the skin
3. Glue on the bonding paper on the reverse of the skin
4. Repeat nr. 1 – mark out the pattern again if it is difficult to see the pattern
5. Cut out the pattern with a fur knife
6. Place the mink cut-out on the fabric
7. Warm-up the bonding glue to fasten the mink on the fabric
8. The finished technique
leaf
A feminine technique that imitates nature’s beauty and gives a simplicity and lightness to the styles it is used for.
1. Mink skin, leather and cardboard templates
2. Transfer the pattern to the mink and leather
3. Cut out the leather with a pair of scissors
4. Cut out the mink with a fur knife
5. Stitch together mink and leather on a fur machine. Be aware of the direction of the hair.
6. Moisten the technique and nail it onto a board
7. The finished technique
In 2005, Kopenhagen Fur established the creative workshop Kopenhagen Studio. The Studio is part of KiCK – Kopenhagen International Center for Creativity – and is situated in central Copenhagen. At Kopenhagen Studio, furriers, designers and students have an opportunity to explore and develop ideas and techniques for using fur. Kopenhagen Studio was founded with the objective of providing better support for fur design and innovation within fur use. To this end, some of the world’s most prestigious and established designers, representatives from other creative industries and up-and-coming talents are invited to work with Kopenhagen Studio’s skilled in-house furriers. Through these collaborations, designers get better insights into fur and find new, creative ways of using this exciting material. To further support innovation, Kopenhagen Studio also cooperates with the world’s leading design schools in training young designers and showing them the many possibilities of fur. These collaborations challenge the traditional perceptions of what can be made out of fur. The development of new techniques means that fur is now found in haute couture, prêt-à-porter and street fashion. In addition to Kopenhagen Studio in Copenhagen, there is also a Kopenhagen Studio in Beijing. Since the beginning both Studios have had remarkable results. Students from Tsinghua Kopenhagen Studio have won an impressive number of design prizes, while the results of Kopenhagen Studio’s design collaborations can be seen at the international fashion weeks in New York, London, Milan and Paris.
www.kopenhagenfur.com
Fur Techniques by Kopenhagen Fur 2014 • 2015