Event Tourism #9 | May - June 2013

EVENT TOURISM MAY - JUNE 2013

A mountain summer in the

ZILLERTAL ONE PERFECT DAY IN

MUNICH

DUBAI

the pearl of the gulf

CALIFORNIA Steaming Teeming CAIRO May 2013 EVENT TOURISM MAGAZINE 1

CONTENTS:

EVER...?

4 6

Falconry, Emirates Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia

8

Giants Causeway, Northern Ireland

DESTINATION

10 14

A mountain summer in the Zillertal Dubai: the peard of the gulf

HOTELS

22

7 best luxury hotels in Dubai

ADVENTURE

30 38

California Steaming The salt wonderland of Salar de Uyuni

RECREATION

44

Cave Therapy

STORY

48

Teeming Cairo

CULTURE

50 56

Medieval Cairo Switzerland’s capital of art and culture

CITY BREAK

58

One perfect day in Munich

58

30

Contributors: On the cover: Grossarl Saukaralm, shot by Andreas Hofer / Austrian National Tourist Office

Alex Karpov, Anne-Marie Persoons, Andreas Hofer, Eelee Koay, Graeme Down, Hannes Jung, Kostiantyn Kinash, Miles Butler , Paul Youden, Patrick Perck, Peter Burgstaller, Wolfgang Zajc

Editor-in-chief Alex Karpov Creative Director Kostiantyn Kinash Advertising Director Nina Onyshchenko Design and layout Kostiantyn Kinash

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Editorial Coordination TTI Club “Crystal Lotus“ vzw Belgium, 8400 Ostend, Duindoornlaan 216 Tel.: +32(0)59 612030 +32 488 331775 info@tticlub.org www.tticlub.org www.eventtourismmagazine.com

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EVER TRIED? FALCONRY United Arab Emirates

Falconry is the hunting of wild quarry in its natural state and habitat by means of a trained bird of prey. It is an integral part of desert life which has been practiced in the UAE for centuries. Originally, falcons were used for hunting, to supplement the Bedouin diet with some meat, such as hare or houbara. Both Sheikh Zayed and Sheikh Mohammed have shown great concern and support for this important part of the UAE’s cultural heritage.

Nowadays, falconry is practiced purely for sport. The main prey for falcons in the UAE are MacQueen’s bustard, houbara, or hare. There is now a very successful captive breeding programme in the UAE for houbara, ensuring that this popular sport does not eliminate this species.

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EVER TRIED?

Medieval boat sailing, Estonia

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EVER SEEN? GIANTS CAUSEWAY

County Antrim, Northern Ireland The Giants Causeway World Heritage Site in Northern Ireland has 40,000 tightly packed basalt columns that developed during volcanic eruption 60 million years ago.

The columns formed when liquid molten rock was forced up through cracks in the chalk bed to form a lava plateau. The rapid cooling of the lava made it contract into hexagonal basaltic columns. You can see the same effect with mud on a lake bed drying in the sun under the right conditions.

The Irish legend tells of the giant Finn McCool building the causeway to walk to Scotland to fight a Scottish giant, Benandonner. After an abortive foray, the Scottish giant pulls up the causeway. And today you can see similar basalt formations in Fingals Cave on the Scottish Island of Staffa. / image by Craig Easton

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EVER BEEN? SALAR DE UYUNI, Bolivia

Have you ever wanted to visit another planet? It is one of the few landscapes on planet Earth where you may feel that you are somewhere else in the universe entirely.

From a distance the salt flats look like a huge white sea. The tiles on the flats stretch on as if to infinity – and beyond. This in itself if simply awesome to behold – and there is no hyperbole there at all. It looks like something out of a science-fiction film – one half expects to see, at any minute, Captain Kirk appear being chased by a couple of Klingons. When there is rain – as there is occasionally even at this altitude – then something magical happens. The salt flats become a mirror of the sky.

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A mountain summer in the Zillertal

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ZILLERTAL | AUSTRIA

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OUTDOOR

IT’S ALL ABOUT BEING ACTIVE Anyone who has ever had the chance to bike in the fresh mountain air of the Zillertal knows that there are few better places in the world to be on two wheels. The impressive natural backdrop and well-developed route and trail network offers choices for both a family bike excursion to steeper and more adrenaline-raising challenges for the professional rider.

Over 800km of signposted mountainbike bike routes invite you to experience the unmistakable mountain panorama of the Zillertal, with its 55 peaks over 3000m, from the saddle. Choose between athletic bike tours covering up to a total of 30,000 vertical metres, and regenerative fitness tours, in combination with convenient bike transport provided by the mountain railways or the Zillertalbahn.

Several popular alpine roads are also a main attraction for racing cyclists – the 12 May 2013 EVENT TOURISM MAGAZINE

Zillertal High-Altitude Road, the roads of the side valleys of Zillertal and, as a test of fitness, the crossing of the Gerlos Pass to Salzburg. For families, the wide, sunny valley floor is available as a quiet cycle path. And, if one needs some incentive to get off the bike, the region has more than 130 chalets that heartily invite holidaymakers to enjoy the delicious natural products of the Zillertal.

SINGLETRAIL WIESENALM RIDEABLE PROJECT The Zillertal Arena has just expanded to include another attraction! Whether you’re a part-time mountainbiker with a taste for adventure, or an experienced pro, the all-new Singletrail Wiesenalm RideAble Project offers excitement at its very finest. The 5.2km-long trail’s design not only means it’s perfect for sports-mad beginners, but also that it offers a whole new experience for bikers already familiar with the setting.

ZILLERTAL | AUSTRIA

The trail’s numerous serpentines, northshore elements and pumps demands that riders show off their skill levels and overall conditioning from start to finish. After making a gentle ascent on the Rosenalmbahn lift and getting off at the middle station, bikers start down the easy/moderately difficult Singletrail, riding through mainly forested terrain over an altitude change of 700m, before finally arriving at the bottom station on the Rosenalmbahn. The trail features cable cars specially fitted-out to accommodate bikes, and a bike wash station, while the team from Intersport Strasser offers comprehensive care, including special bike rental and servicing, just a few steps from the bottom station on the Rosenalmbahn lift.

CULINARY HIGHLIGHTS ON THE MOUNTAIN AND IN THE VALLEY After a day on the bike, it’s time to enjoy the culinary highlights of the Zillertal. It’s not just on the mountain, but also in the centres of gourmet dining in the valley where the traditional gastronomy of the Zillertal is being given a contemporary twist, evolving into new creations of modern, light cuisine using the natural products of the Zillertal Valley such as cheese made from pure pasture milk, and sausage and bacon from the village butcher.

A wonderful meal at one of the many award-winning restaurants in the valley is the perfect way to wrap up an action-packed day in the Zillertal. In Hochfugen, 2005 Austrian Chef of the Year, Alexander Fankhauser, indulges his guests with his creations. The Restaurant Alexander now enjoys a 3 Gault-Millau ‘hat’ status and a 17-point rating, along with its one star in the Guide Michelin, firmly establishing it as a shining jewel amongst top Austrian restaurants. Other fine restaurants in the valley similarly place great value on top organic quality and maximum product freshness. Restaurant Sieghard in Hippach, the Landgasthof Linde in Stumm, and the Restaurant Metzgerwirt in Uderns are drawing much visitor attention for their creative menus and dedication to their craft.

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DUBAI | UNITED ARAB EMIRATES

DUBAI THE PEARL OF THE GULF Text and photos: Anne-Marie Persoons

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DESTINATION

Dubai at the crossroads of East and West welcomed a record of 12 million visitors in 2012. Historically the city was seen by some as a stopover destination but in recent years it has become “The” destination”!

Dubai, the second largest of the Emirates is a modern, thriving metropolis, one that is constantly growing and changing. While proud and protective of his own Islamic culture, it is also one of the most progressive, cosmopolitan and open-minded countries in the region.

The biggest, the tallest, the best HISTORY IN SHORT

POPULATION

3000 BC: Archaeological discoveries were found.

1830: The Makthoum family settles in Dubai. As of this moment the history of Dubai runs parallel with the that of Abu Dhabi.

1973: The UAE launches a single currency: the “Dirham” 1999: The doors of the Burj Al Arab, the tallest and unique 7* hotel in the world opened its doors to the public.

2001: Construction starts on the Palm Jumeirah Island.

2002: The freehold property market is opened up to foreigners.

2004: Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan dies and is succeeded by his son as leader of the UAE: Sheikh Khalifa bin Zayed Al Nahyan.

2007: The first residents move to the Palm Jumeirah.

Following the elections, a number of women were voted in to government positions, and today, more than 60% of UAE government employees, are women, one of the highest rates in the world.

2010: The tallest building in the world, the 'Burj Khalifa' opened.

Nearly 9 million people are living in Dubai, and nine out of then UAE residents are expatriates.

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ENVIRONMENT Most people know Dubai as the very luxury, modern, rich expanding metropolis, but visitors may be surprised by the variety of landscapes beyond the city centre.

The coastline is littered with coral reefs and more than 200 islands, most of them uninhabited.

The interior of the country is characterised by salt flats, gravel planes and sand deserts. In the east rise the “Hajar (rock) Mountains”; The highest peak is 'Jebel Yibir' (1527 metres). The south part of the country is covered with the 'Rub Al Khali'(empty quarters). It is the largest sand dessert in the world, stretching into Saudi Arabia, Oman and Yemen and is covering an area with the same size as France, Belgium and the Netherlands! Spectacular sand dunes rise to more than 300 metres.

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PLACES OF INTEREST

Deira & the creek was the original centre of Dubai commerce and it still buzzes today.

Before taking a Dhow (wooden boat) for crossing the creek, first stop in the Spices souk where the different aromas fill the air. Or walk around the narrow streets in the Gold souk 'Aladdin's Cave'.

'Jumeira' might not have the exotic atmosphere, but its beaches, shopping centres and pleasant, wide streets make up for it. It is also the area of stylish boutiques and excellent cafés.

Just outside Jumeira, to the south is 'Um Suqeim' where the ultimate attraction has to be the iconic sailing ship shaped 'Burj Al Arab' hotel. Enjoy a “High Noon Tea” 18 May 2013 EVENT TOURISM MAGAZINE

pause in this beautiful setting while a lady harpist is playing the loveliest songs. Or just relax on the beach of this man-made island.

Burj Kahlifa: Still the tallest of the tall The world's tallest skyscraper tower, which points like a needle more than 828m skywards is a world-class destination in down town Dubai.

A high-speed lift brings the visitors to the 124th floor to enjoy a staggering 360°views from the observation deck. At the top, Burj Khalifa offers unparalleled vistas from the sparkling waters of the Gulf to the golden sand dunes of the Arabian desert and beyond. The tallest gastronomical restaurant is situated on the 122nd floor.

Nestled within Burj Khalifa, you can enjoy a

DUBAI | UNITED ARAB EMIRATES

great buffet meal in one of the seven restaurants of the Armani hotel, which is the first hotel designed and developed by Giorgio Armani. By the base of the Burj Kahlifa you can stroll in the Dubai Mall and in the old town while the centrepiece is the spectacular Fountain. Jets of water shoot 150 meters up into the air along the length of the tower and dances on Arabic or classical music. As of March 2013 visitors can make a “Abarka” (boat) ride on the Burj Kalifa lake.

The “Palm Jumeirah” stretches several kilometres out to the sea on a man-made island. The Palm is home to several top restaurants, luxury villas and apartments as well as a deluxe hotel in Andalusian style: the one and only “The Palm”. Take a ride on the monorail for an elevated view of the luxuryvilla-lined fronds or just drive around its perimeter to have a great view on the shore “The World”: A group of 300 man-made islands that form a unique map of the world.

With all but one of the islands still uninhabited – Greenland – and that one a show-piece owned by the ruler of Dubai.

A seaplane trip is one of the most romantic excursions available in Dubai city. The 40 minute “Silver Experience” offers a new perspective on the city with awe-inspiring views of some of the region's most iconic creations.

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DUBAI | UNITED ARAB EMIRATES

GASTRONOMY

CLIMATE

You can eat your way around the world in Dubai

Dubai has a subtropical climate with sunny blue skies and very high temperature most of the year. Rain fall can be expected in winter time (December to March) but only during a maximum 25 days. Sandstorms from the desert can occur in the winter period. In the summer the temperature can rise till 50°C. The humidity can be extremely uncomfortable in high summer (60%).

Alongside fine-dining options, you can find cheaper fare at the many street cafés, restaurants and even fast-food chains. Culturally speaking, eating in Dubai is traditionally a social affair!

The Arabic food which is available here is based predominately on Lebanese cuisine.

Drinking Arabic coffee “Kahwa” is mild with a taste of cardamom and saffron and served black with sugar.

Alcohol is only served in licensed outlets associated with hotels, restaurants and bars. The hotels which do not serve alcohol are called: “Dry hotels”!

GETTING AROUND IN DUBAI Most Dubai residents are crazy about cars, especially Jeeps. Despite all the road expansions, traffic is still a problem in Dubai. With new roads popping up on a weekly basis, finding your way around, can be difficult and confusing. In the city of boundless bling, police have to be able to keep up with the bad guys and do this in a luxury sports car: a white-green Lamborghini Aventador, worth 420000 Euros and with a top speed of 350 km/h. However, the car is being shown off at the same time as the police are in the middle of a campaign to curb the wilder excesses of the city’s largely young male drivers, who frequently use the United Arab Emirates desert motorways as a racetrack.

Public transportation: There are around 70 bus routes servicing the main residential areas. The Dubai metro opened in September 2009. In 2012, Dubai Metro entered the Guinness World Records book as the longest driver-less metro network in the world: 74,69 km. But taxis are still the most common way of getting around. They have all a fixed fare structure. A fleet of “Ladies taxis” have distinctive pink roofs and female drivers and they are only for women or family groups!

ANOTHER DIMENSION Dubai has more records

- most cranes on one spot - largest population growth - tallest hotel tower: Burj-al-Arab with 7 stars - highest building Burj Khalifa - the tower with the most floors - fastest elevator - highest level swimming pool - highest level restaurants - highest level panoramic view - biggest shopping mall: Dubai Mall - highest fountain - longest fountain - biggest theme park: Ski Dubai - fastest economically growing city We stayed in excellent 4 and 5* hotels with perfect organised excursions and had gastronomical meals in the restaurants and hotels.

Tour operator/agency: B-TOURS bvba / QUALITY TIME Cultural trips.

Lic.: 5273 Lindenpark 5 9831 Sint-Martens-Latem BELGIUM Tel.: +32 (0)9/282.95.65

www.btours.be

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7 BEST LUXURY HOTELS IN DUBAI Dubai has come a long way from its origins as a quiet desert port, spending the past 20 years building the biggest and best of everything, including malls, skyscrapers, and especially hotels. Here, our insider gives us a list of a few of his favourite places to recuperate after a long day touring what seems to be the world’s fastest growing holiday paradise.

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DUBAI | UNITED ARAB EMIRATES

ATLANTIS: THE PALM Standing at the end of the famous Palm development and accessed by an underwater tunnel, Atlantis’ location would be enough of a draw for most guests. But added to that there’s arguably the best waterpark in the Emirate and the sensational Nobu restaurant, making it an unforgettable destination.

Crescent Road, The Palm, Dubai. +971 4 426 0000. www.atlantisthepalm.com

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BURJ AL ARAB The so-called “seven-star hotel” doesn’t market itself as such; no need to resort to gimmickry when you manage one of the world’s most instantly recognisable properties. Shaped like an enormous billowing sail, it is visible from kilometres away, a true icon of the city.

Dining beside the hotel’s giant 990,000 litre aquarium at Al Muhara restaurant is a must. Accessible via a submarine simulation, it’s been designed with the adventurous diner in mind.

Jumeira, Dubai. +971 4 301 7777. www.jumeirah.com/Hotels-and-Resorts/Reiseziele/Dubai/Burj-Al-Arab/

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DUBAI | UNITED ARAB EMIRATES

JUMEIRAH BEACH HOTEL Located a very short distance from the grand Burj Al Arab, Jumeirah Beach Hotel was designed to look like an enormous wave, crashing into shore. As the name suggests, it’s right on the beach, giving great access to the Arabian Gulf.

It’s also home to the excellent Wild Wadi water park, which is free to anyone staying in a Jumeirah property and features the highest and fastest free fall waterslide in the world.

Jumeirah Road, Dubai. +971 4 348 0000. www.jumeirah.com/Hotels-and-Resorts/Reiseziele/Dubai/ Jumeirah-Beach-Hotel/

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HOTELS

SHANGRI-LA DUBAI Located a very short distance from the grand Burj Al Arab, Jumeirah Beach Hotel was designed to look like an enormous wave, crashing into shore.

As the name suggests, it’s right on the beach, giving great access to the Arabian Gulf.

It’s also home to the excellent Wild Wadi water park, which is free to anyone staying in a Jumeirah property and features the highest and fastest free fall waterslide in the world.

Sheikh Zayed Road, Dubai. +971 4 343 8888. www.shangri-la.com/dubai/shangrila/

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DUBAI | UNITED ARAB EMIRATES

JUMEIRAH EMIRATES TOWERS Perhaps the most elegant hotel in Dubai, the Jumeirah Emirates Towers is close to Dubai Mall, the world’s largest, and the jaw-dropping Sheikh Zayed Road which snakes between increasingly enormous skyscrapers. Many rooms have views of the world’s tallest building, the Burj Khalifa.

312th Road, Sheikh Zayed Road, Dubai. +971 4 330 0000. www.jumeirah.com/Hotels-and-Resorts/Reiseziele/Dubai/ Jumeirah-Emirates-Towers/

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HOTELS

JUMEIRAH ZABEEL SARAY Jumeirah’s first venture onto Palm, the Zabeel Saray, makes the most of dipping its toes into the warm waters of the Arabian Gulf. Having only opened last year, it’s small compared to its sister properties, but if anything that only intensifies the focus on luxury. Built in the style of an Ottoman palace, it’s rapidly becoming popular with celebrities.

The Palm Jumeira, Dubai. +971 4 453 0000 www.jumeirah.com/Hotels-and-Resorts/Reiseziele/ Dubai/Jumeirah-Zabeel-Saray/

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DUBAI | UNITED ARAB EMIRATES

MADINAT JUMEIRAH Arguably the most impressive of Jumeirah’s properties, largely down to its complexity, the Madinat Jumeirah offers something for everyone.

Comprising of three hotels, an atmospheric souk and a positively Venetian system of waterways, it’s possible to spend an entirely holiday here without leaving the property.

Mina a’Salam, Jumeirah Beach Road, Dubai. +971 4 366 8888. www.jumeirah.com/Hotels-and-Resorts/Reiseziele/ Dubai/Madinat-Jumeirah/

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ADVENTURE

California Steaming Text by Graeme Down Photos: Visit California 30 May 2013 EVENT TOURISM MAGAZINE

CALIFORNIA | USA

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ADVENTURE

A

h, California. You know the images: the bright lights of Hollywood, the hurly-burly of Los Angeles, the beautiful people lying on the sun-kissed beaches. The lifestyle in the Golden State is hot but so is the unspoiled scenery. The Mamas The Papas went California dreamin'; while we were there, it was California Steamin'.

My girlfriend and I began our desert journey by driving over the Cuyamaca Mountains east of San Diego into the misty, cool, tree-hugged retreat of Julian- home of some amazing fruit pies. The only preparation this gave us for what lay ahead was that, these too, were baked. Desert... what desert?

Then it hit us. Just beyond Julian the clouds parted like a veil, literally steaming away into clear blue sky.

Below were the badlands, stretching away in cactus-strewn solitude for hundreds of miles, hemmed in by naked brown mountains. Gulp!

Borrego Springs, in the Anza-Borrego desert, was a centre of sorts, but as might be expected, it was not a heaving metropolis; although, it did have its own airfield. Not surprisingly, few folks made it outdoors during the soaring temperatures of the day.

Being English, we didn’t let small things like that worry us. Ready to tackle anything, that's us.

Do not, I repeat do not, try the Palm Springs trails in the middle of a June day. Although relatively lush, with shrubs lining the valley floor, it was not especially sheltered and the sun beat down relentlessly. The trail to the oasis was only a mile or so, but we never made it. Bighorn sheep high on the boulder-strewn valley side peered down warily, but they needn’t have worried about pursuit as we collapsed

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onto a boulder unable to go further. It was all the lesson we needed.

Squinting through the dusty glare of the main street in Borrego, we initially failed to spot a culinary feast for evening meals. So, first night out, we headed for the rather swanky Casa del Zorro, a little out of town. If the heat hadn’t got to me, the prices very nearly did make me keel over. The nest of duck breast and parsnip chips with a rich sauce really was exquisitely presented, but there was no way I could afford vegetables to go with it.

We did subsequently locate the local Mexican restaurant where we dined on burritos and chimichangas for the next few days. (A 'chimichanga' is a burrito made with a flour tortilla which is folded then chilled to allow the edges to seal. The burrito is then fried until crisp.) The genuine Mexican beer was tempting too, but the combination of having a hire car and the fact that the local cops liked to eat there too, limited any sampling.

From Borrego we drove east to the Salton Sea, where we gazed, panting, at the sight of so much water in such an arid land. Unfortunately it was saline and also shrinking fast. The area around the sea was refreshing green but the irrigation systems needed to keep it so were widely in evidence. This is straining the resources of the inland sea, which was only accidentally created in the first place with a disastrous attempt to dam the Colorado river in 1904.

We strolled around salty pans and up onto a rocky promontory. The area was a bird haven with delicate phalaropes swimming on the pools looking for insects, and skimmers and terns cruising overhead. It all seemed very fragile.

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ADVENTURE

Returning from here to Borrego on the E22 was an unforgettable experience. This stretch of highway is better known as Erosion Road, and after dark required a strong constitution to navigate the sinuous track, knowing that all around were crazy twists, fold, gullies and canyons waiting to swallow us without a trace.

The immense desert rises in altitude to form the Joshua Trees National Park (a days drive to the north east of Borrego). The sign at Key’s Views read ‘Beware of the bees.’ How we scoffed. A few mild-mannered critters buzzed amiably around the car as we got out, seemingly intent on harvesting nectar from the desert flowers dotted around. The abiding memory of this place should be the 34 May 2013 EVENT TOURISM MAGAZINE

alien-looking Joshua trees, arms raised as if to heaven, but we had forgotten the few fruit pastilles scattered in the glove compartment.

The bees went absolutely wild for them, and who can blame them, given the tough task of finding sugar in their harsh environment. It was some considerable time before all the interlopers were evicted. The possibility of anaphylactic shock was not a pleasant one in a place where hundred-mile views revealed not a trace of habitation.

The ultimate of all Californian desert areas has to be Death Valley, not least because of its fearsome reputation. High over the Sierra Nevada to its west stood cool, green Sequoia forests, but just a few kilometres east the sand burned.

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ADVENTURE

I thought I had acclimatised to the desert heat by this stage. How else can you explain the ability to stand in searing midday heat at Badwater searching for a unique snail species in the briny puddles? Well, some might/did suggest that I was cracking up as much as the salt pans around me. Badwater is the lowest point in the western hemisphere, though the stark surroundings rendered the stats fairly meaningless.

The whole valley was a merciless cauldron of fire.

Places, often long abandoned, with names including the words 'devil', 'furnace', 'ghost' and 'bad' testified to the toughness of existing here. The cool visitor centre at Furnace Creek was an island in a dry sea.

Way to the north, not far from the Oregon border, the desert landscape gained a different toehold at the Lava Beds National Monument. Honeycombed with caves, the area is a paradise for those who like to be holed-up underground in total darkness. Personally, I’m not a member of that set, and we were after an “easy” option. At the ranger station this request met with a flurry of maps... and two headlamps. Grinning sheepishly, we accepted these, realizing that in order to save face, we now actually had to go and do some exploring. And so we headed off to the 3,700-foot long Sentinel cave.

Although rather unnerving, and requiring a certain careful placement of feet, the presence of other visitors did somewhat lessen the isolation as we stumbled along the lava tube. Taking off the headlamp and peering behind revealed total and utter blackness.

It was a memorable 30-minute trek.

Our main base in this region was the very Scottish sounding community of McCloud. This atmosphere was heightened by the ranks of damp conifers, and mist-shrouded slopes of the massive peak of Mount Shasta, providing a welcome retreat from the scorching heat. The McCloud Hotel was a wonderfully eccentric place to stay, with an old hunting lodge feel. Every room was individual in character, and the breakfasts were huge.

From here, we headed south-east to Lassen Volcanic Park via Highway 89, for our last hot encounter. The chill of winter was still very much in evidence with snow piled up to 20 feet high beside the road and so the delights of trails such as Bumpass Hell were denied us. Normal service was resumed however, at the fuming sulphurous pools at the Sulfur Works. Fire and brimstone bubbled all around a short boardwalk circuit. After all that, there was only one thing left to do. We headed to the café for a cool drink.

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The salt wonderland of SALAR DE UYUNI

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SALAR DE UYUNI | BOLIVIA

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ADVENTURE

Text: Eelee Koay Photographs: Bolivia Tourist Board

There are some things in the world that truly deserve to be described as amazing, unlike the banal everyday things, like say, chocolate cake. And Salar de Uyuni in Bolivia is a prime example of something “amazing.”

T

he largest salt pan in the world, Salar de Uyuni conjures up a fantastical world where an immense salt lake appears to have been frozen ... trapping on it “islands” of rocky desert hills. The pure and brilliant whiteness of the hardened salt goes as far as the eye can see, uniting with the immaculate clear blue sky.

Accessible from the town of the same name, Uyuni, the salt pan lies in the south-west region of Bolivia, stretching across the departments of Potosi and Oruro. Uyuni is a sleepy town that receives an abundance of sunshine even in the very chilly days of spring and along with it a steady flow of tourists every year, particularly in the winter holiday months of the Southern Hemisphere, typically between June and August.

Being over 3,000 metres above sea level, you are as close to the sun as you should be, and despite the cold and dry climate, sun protection and hydration are definite essentials. The journey to Uyuni can be long and tiring, whether by train or bus from neighbouring cities in Bolivia.

Most travellers make their way to Uyuni after crossing the border of Argentina into the border town of Villazon or from the northern cities like La Paz, which may result in your internal organs being slightly

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72 HOURS SALAR IN PARADISE DE UYUNI | HAWAII | BOLIVIA , USA

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ADVENTURE

rearranged due to many hours on rough, unpaved roads. It all forms part of the adventure of being in Bolivia, of course.

Tours are the only way to visit Salar de Uyuni and they range from a one- to three-day trip costing between 150 and 600 Bolivian pesos (RM66 and RM266) during the low season, and it’s worth shopping around for a good deal and finding out if your guide speaks English if you don’t speak Spanish.

Waste no time in Uyuni town and get on that jeep, on which you will pass by mountainous landscapes and sparse mud and brick huts dotted along the way. Thanks to President Evo Morales and his government, there are no giant manufacturing plants ruining the landscape of Uyuni. The major industry of salt and minerals mining is managed instead by a collective of families in the 42 May 2013 EVENT TOURISM MAGAZINE

72 HOURS SALAR IN PARADISE DE UYUNI | HAWAII | BOLIVIA , USA

town that mine and process the salt in their humble homes using manual and rather archaic methods.

One of the marvellous things about being in Salar de Uyuni is finding yourself walking on concrete salt with pockets of still water that reflect the mountains and the sky like a flawless mirror. The temptation to taste the ground you walk upon will be too great to resist and you’ll find it is indeed very salty.

Pay a visit to the Cementario de Trenes where the eerie, rusted, dormant trains of yesteryear remain frozen in their tracks, a metal playground for adventurous visitors to climb in and out of. From there it is just a visual wonderland that is sure to make you marvel at the creativity of Mother Nature.

There are of course perfectly logical scientific and geographic explanations for why Salar de Uyuni is a whimsical

combination of hardened salt lake, mountain and desert all rolled in one but let’s forget about the technical mumbo jumbo for now.

Instead, let yourself be carried away by the excitement of seeing a flock of pink flamingos feeding in a lake at the bottom of the volcanic mountains Tunupa, Kusku and Kusina, which according to Aymara legend were giant people, and listen to the guide tell you about their tragic love triangle.

Marvel at the spectacular rock formations that were left standing in the middle of the salt pan like abstract sculptures in a lonely white gallery. Find yourself questioning how you ended up in an “island” of giant cacti that is Incahuasi Island. And when the sun begins to set across the horizon, allow yourself to be lost in the peace of being just a tiny part of the magnificence of our planet Earth.

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Cave Therapy Inside you breathe in gas, temperatures are in excess of 37oC and humidity levels as high as 95%. Paul Youden goes there to relax. Is he mad?

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BAD GASTEIN | AUSTRIA

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RECREATION

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BAD GASTEIN | AUSTRIA

D

ressed in only my swimming trunks and a bath robe, I climbed aboard the narrow gauge train to tale me 2.5km (1.5 miles) deep inside the mountains at Bad Gastein in Austria to lay for an hour in temperatures in excess of 37oC and breathe in Radon Gas while humidity levels reach as high as 95 per cent.

Such an extraordinary journey would, to most, seem beyond belief. But incredibly, 10,000 people a year undertake a similar journey and all in the interests of health. In conjunction with what the Austrians describe as "Wellness Weeks" the treatment has been scientifically proved by countless medical professors from around the world as being especially therapeutic in the treatment of certain ailments such as muscular diseases, respiratory conditions, degenerative spinal syndrome, arthrosis and chronic polyarthritis.

The Gastein Curative Tunnel is unique by global standards and is backed by the medical profession throughout Austria, Germany and Holland. It is also supported by leading European insurance companies who will pay for a course of treatment when recommended by a GP. The Tunnel's therapeutic properties are achieved because the natural tunnel air contains as much as 4.5 Nonocurie of radon per litre; the ambient temperature levels range from 37 C to 41.5 C; and the relative humidity reaches between 70 and 95 per cent.

Before any patient is allowed into the Gastein Curative Tunnel, a doctor will carry out a medical check before signing an approval form for you to enter the Tunnel. You will be advised to drink a litre of water as your body will lose a high volume of fluid during the hour-long "cure" laying on a bed covered in nothing at all! You will have removed both your bathrobe and swimwear before laying down on a bed, relaxing in subdued lighting and listening only to the shallow breathing of the 50 of so other patients taking "the cure" with you. Most patients sign up for a two or three week course and during this time enter the Tunnel every other day under the supervision of medical staff.

I stayed in a 5 star hotel, the luxurious Europaischerhof, where facilities include an indoor swimming pool, fully equipped gymnasium, solarium, body and facial massage parlours, salt therapies pools, hairdressing and a range of activity programmes for both men and women designed to make you feel - and look - younger after your stay.

The cuisine is varied but there is a strong emphasis on "healthy eating". The Gastein Valley's 'Thermal Temple' swimming pool is so called because it contains the mineral rich waters of the 3,500 year old underground wells believed to have a purifying effect on the inner body.

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STORY

OSIRIS IS MY HOST (I)

Teeming Cairo Patrick Perck Per©kamentje

T

he middle of summer. Past witching hour. Gasping for air in the constantly honking taxi en route to the Hilton.

Driver s always right as he honks. In case of collision the villain who failed to honk gets the blame. The first impression in Morsi’s capital after the ‘Egypt air bird’ landed spot on time, is one of a morning after the night before hangover. The clear-cut four-lane roads are invaded by seven-lane traffic. Red lights?

You’ve seen one, you’ve seen them all … in spite of omnipresent police and militia near the intersections. Slip roads are taken impeccably … in the wrong directions. Nothing can go wrong as long as the horn works: both public opinion and the law will hear you.

The day after confirms the first impressions.

Cairo: Mother of the World, largest city in Africa, starting point of and for every would-be Egyptologist and revolutionary, invaded by over fifteen million human ants, is choking for breath. CO2 is one of the main ingredients in the air. There is still some future left for Brussels.

Few accidents, though. Probably they are all excellent drivers.

Getting a taste of Cairo during a midweek stay is a daring exploit as travelling straight from North to South is equivalent to the distance from Norway to Nice, and elsewhere too the Nile beckons to visit both its historical and exceptional sites.

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The July heat pushes the thermometer to 35°C. Later, a visit to the sunny southern region with almost twice the temperature, will make this feel pleasantly fresh which, certainly as a result of the drought, did not have a disastrous effect on the blond blue-eyed traveller that I am. The generous airco of the Ramses Hilton Hotel is nevertheless appreciated.

To me summer is the ideal Egyptian season.

OK, it’s warm but outside you don’t face the winter chill (still 18-20°C) as well as the tourist explosion. Certainly so now the revolution has taken a big chunk out of tourism. Guides and hawkers, Tourist Militia and receptionists, all have time and distant relatives in Belgium.

“Hello, Mister! Where do you come from? …

Belgium?

Oh, my father/brother/cousin, etc. etc. lived there!

You special friend! You special price!

Time and tea go hand in hand like baksheesh and haggling. The real art resides in turning this into a harmonious attitude, while remaining phlegmatically polite. Egypt always remains ever gracious.

Compulsory visits to Mugamma and driver Ben Ali’s taxi rank. The first one is necessary to have your stay registered if you ever wish to leave the land of Isis and Osiris without hassle.

The second one to find a guide, taxi driver, Sesame, key to stubborn gates and problemsolver all-in-one. The ideal companion to the merciless House of the Gods.

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MEDIEVAL CAIRO Get to know some of Islamic Cairo’s most enchanting masterpieces

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ucked away behind the capital’s

majestic the Citadel lies a treasure trove of medieval gems from the Islamic era. The enigmatic Islamic Cairo is home to an abundant number of historical sites, monuments and mosques. Many historians and a recent United Nations study have crowned Islamic Cairo’s El Moez Le Din Illah Street as the place with the greatest concentration of medieval Islamic riches.

In 1997, this one-kilometer street started undergoing a massive renovation process, and in 2008, the legendary street metamorphosed into an open-air museum.

This historical area also features an ancient lavish house that dates back to the 17th Century and has undergone a transformational makeover.

BEIT EL SUHEIMY Built on an area of 2100m2, the house is comprised of several halls, rooms, corridors and courts. The house is divided into two parts: A public area and a private one. The public area, also known as the Salamlik includes a takhtabush. This is a large benched area which opens onto the courtyard like a hall, in which business transactions were carried out. The women of the house were not permitted in this part of the

house.

On the second floor is the maq’ad and the formal reception (qa’a) hall. The private or the Haramlik area includes a (qa’a) as well as private apartments and a bath.

The very high ceilings of the house allow the warmer air to rise and then to be swept away by the north facing maq’ad (wind scoops) in the upper walls, which caught the breeze. This architectural feature really helped in making life easier in Cairo’s dry and hot weather at a time when air conditioners weren’t available.

BEIT ZEINAB KHATOUN Hidden in one of the nooks of Islamic Cairo’s alleys is Beit Zeinab Khatoun; one of the most remarkable houses that has managed to survive through the test of time. The house was named after its last owner, as was the custom for Islamic houses in those days, and is strategically situated at the back of the famous Al

AZHAR MOSQUE Dating backing to the early 15th century, Beit Zeinab Khatoun is a state of the art Ottoman-era house. It is not as grand as most of the houses built during that era, and is comprised of a simple stone façade with small windows that lack the luxurious wooden mashrabeya windows,

except for one single mashrabeya window above the entrance that seems to have been added at a later date.

To the right of the entrance is a small room called maguaz, which is found in most of the houses built at that time. It is mainly constructed to keep the privacy of the household intact from the curious eyes of passers-by. It was probably used to attend to business affairs away from the hustle and bustle of the house’s activities.

The ground floor is laid with clean-cut stones while the upper floors and later additions are made from brick. The maq’ad (an open loggia) is reached through a few steps in the courtyard. At the back of the maq’ad is a smaller space, a private chamber of the household’s master, with a side access to the harem

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(women) quarters.

The most impressive hall in the house is the main Harem Qa’a on the first floor, an enchanting hall with exquisite decorations. It is composed of the customary three sections: Durqa’a (central section) with two unequal iwans (sitting area) from each side at a higher level. In the middle of the marble tiled flooring of the durqa’a is a state-of-theart mosaic inlaid octagonal fountain.

The house’s spacious courtyard, also shared by its neighboring Beit El Harrawi, is now a bustling traditional ahwa (coffee shop), favored by locals and foreigners alike.

Beit Zeinab Khatoun is also famous for staging numerous cultural concerts and events by both prominent and up and coming Egyptian talents.

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Khatoun Gallery. An old dye house that has been transformed by four local artists into a shop that sells unique oriental crafts.

BEIT EL SIT WASSILA In the heart of Al Azhar area stands a most memorable house, Beit El Sit Wassila, one of the country’s historical residences. It is located next to Beit El Harawy and behind Al Azhar Mosque.

Dating back to the 17th century, this house was built by Sheikh Abdel Haq and his brother Loutfi Al Kenawi. Its name, Beit El Sit Wassila, has been derived from the name of its last owner Wassila Khatoun bent Abdallah El Beida Maatouqa.

Access to the building is gained through a few underground stairs, that lead to the ground level. The entrance to the house is designed in a way that enables

the house’s residents to easily view their visitors without being seen.

The ground level consists of an open court, in the middle of which is a large rectangular hall with limestone floors, especially designed for the man of the house to entertain his guests. The first floor is the women of the house and their female visitors’ very own private space.

Most of the rooms are decorated with a variety of floral and geometrical wall paintings, inscriptions and mashrabeyas, all supported by a polychrome ceiling.

The house’s rare and unique frecos can be found in the house’s summer reception hall, on the first floor, highlighting the entrance to a forified city. Around twenty more frescos and murals were discovered, representing flower vases, residencies in Madina El Menawara, in additon to an impressive scene depicting pilgrimage in Mecca.

CAIRO | EGYPT

BEIT EL HARRAWI While it’s a historic building, Beyt El Harrawi is also all about music. So much so that it also goes by the moniker Beyt Al-Oud (house of the lute). In fact, the director of the house is one of the Arab world’s foremost Oud players, Naseer Shamma, known for his innovations when it comes to the instrument.

The space has been dedicated to music and visitors can enjoy concerts in its open-air courtyard.

Sitting in the courtyard, you will also be able to admire the hand-carved mashrabiya windows, which are designed for privacy, especially of the women of the house.

Coming off the courtyard is the lavish mandarah, or sitting room, with its carved wooden ceilings and a mosaic inlaid octagonal fountain. The middle section of the mandarah is slightly raised allowing the master of the house to sit in an elevated position of honor above his guests.

Like Beyt Zeinab El Khatoun, Beit El Harrawi is located just south of El Azhar Mosque. It was built in 1731 and occupied until 1920.

During the 90’s the house was renovated through joint French-Egyptian efforts.

AMIR TAZ PALACE The Amir Taz Palace was built in 1352 under the reign of the Mamluks. Taz Al Nasiri built this extravagant palace to celebrate his

marriage to Sultan An Nasir Mohamed’s daughter Khwand Zahra. Despite the palace’s splendor, Al Nasiri never really got a chance to reside in it. The original house owner fell victim to a series of accusations and conspiracies and even faced imprisonment, so he ended having to flee the country, leaving his beautiful house behind.

The palace, along with its significant complex of buildings, annexes and gardens, was built on a huge rectangular plot and lies near al-Salibba street and around the corner from Sabil Umm Abbas behind the Citadel.

During the conservation project, an unexpected discovery of the water supply system was made. The system includes a water wheel, aqueducts and cisterns, showing how the water distribution system was at the time.

One of the original ceilings remaining in the palace is that of the north-west iwan in the main qa’a; the paintings and decorative elements show Bahri-Mamluk characteristics while the opposite iwan seems to date back to the 15th century as it is in relatively better condition.

Nowadays, the palace is a thriving cultural spot that holds regular concerts and cultural festivals.

BESHTAK PALACE An architectural wonder of the 14th century,

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Beshtak Pala ce was built in the Mamluk era and is one of the remaining domestic residences from the period. The palace, located on Al Mu’izz li-Din Allah Street, was built by Prince (Amir) Beshtak Al-Nasiri between 1334 and 1339, where the Eastern Fatimid palace used to stand.

You will find two stories of this palace down a small alleyway and through an arch in old Islamic Cairo. It is a popular site to visit due to its small yet interesting museum, showcasing the history of Cairo. Make sure to spend some time in the stunning hall of the palace. The courtyard and the stables are also attractive but the really impressive elements to note are the mashrabiya screens on the many windows to what was once one of Cairo’s busiest streets and the stained glass windows of the pointed arches on the second floor, with their gilded and painted wooden paneling.

GAYER ANDERSON MUSEUM The Gayer Anderson museum is adjacent to the Ahmed Ibn Tulun Mosque in the heart of the Sayeda Zeinab neighborhood. Named after its last resident Major R.G. Gayer Anderson Pasha, this architectural gem is home to a vast collection of Anderson’s furniture, carpets and curios.

Anderson lived in the house from 1935 to 1942, and was a British officer in the Egyptian army, with a deep love and passion for Egypt, its people and its culture.

As a result of the house’s cultural and historical significance, the house was renovated and transferred into one of Old Cairo’s most visited museums.

The museum consists of two houses built next to one another, using the outer wall of its neighboring mosque as support.

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The house on the eastern side, the larger of the two, was built in 1632 by Mohamed Ibn Al Hajj Salem ibn Galman Al Gazzar. Shortly after, its doors welcomed a new owner; a wealthy woman from Crete, which garnered the house the name Beit Al Kritliya or the House of the Cretan Woman. The house on the western side, known as Beit Amna bint Salem, was built in 1540 by Abdel Qader Al Haddad.

The two houses are joined by a little bridge on the third floor and are collectively known as Beit Al Kritliya.

Each room is characterized by a different Islamic style of furniture. For example; a traditional Arabian reception, a Turkish dining room, Syrian bedrooms, medieval kitchen and a typical home library.

A big fountain centers the courtyard. The summer living room is found on the first floor and is made up of two joint bridges supported by a column. The summer living room leads up to the Salamlik area, which consists of two above ground level arcades, which make up the durqa’a. Each arcade is provided with a mashrabeya window that is intricately designed against a silk cushion clad bench. The walls are decorated with antique swords and classical guns.

There is a corridor that joins the Salamlik leads to the Haramlik. The Haramlik is set apart by scores of mashrabeya windows that enable the women to seewhat is happening in and out of the house, without being seen. The Haramlik also has its own private summer living room.

A few steps from the roof lies Anderson’s Persian room. It consists of a wooden bed with columns inlaid with ivory and pearl.

Parts of the James Bond film “The spy who loved me” was shot in the house’s reception hall and on its rooftop terrace.

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CULTURE

Basel

Switzerland’s capital of art and culture Nestling in the heart of Europe in the three countries corner where Switzerland, Germany and France meet, Basel is a pocket-sized metropolis that combines proverbial Swiss quality with a multicultural population. This makes the city unmistakably openminded, happy and innovative.

Basel is so easy to get to Only a 10-minute drive from the city centre, Basel’s EuroAirport – by the way the only bi-national airport in the world – is served by a number of international airlines. Together with neighbouring Zurich Airport, it enjoys connections to all European airports and to more than 200 intercontinental destinations. Located in the centre of Europe, Basel is a major transportation hub. Its three railway stations – the Swiss SBB, French SNCF and German Badischer Bahnhof offer excellent connections to far and wide.

The art of so much art The city sparkles with all kinds of culture. Nearly 40 museums with their long-established collections and spectacular special exhibitions are the foundation of Basel’s reputation as a city of art and museums. However, art is to be found not only in the many museums but is encountered all over the city, and exciting contrasts are created by the presence of classical patrician houses and mediaeval churches side by side with modern buildings designed by major international architects such as Herzog & de Meuron or Renzo Piano.

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BASEL | SWITZERLAND

Gourmet paradise Basel whets one’s appetite in the most varied and delightful ways.

What applies to its remarkable cultural heritage is also true of its culinary scene. Thanks to the city’s location, its cuisine is both excellent and eclectic. Experience “culture unlimited” and an unrivalled savoir-vivre: the sunny banks of the Rhine, the romantic streets of the excellently preserved Old Town and countless boulevard cafés invite you to stroll and enjoy. In trendy bars or historic taverns – every taste is catered for.

Trade fair and congress venue Basel is Switzerland’s leading trade fair and congress venue and hosts two extremely important international trade fairs: Art Basel, and BASELWORLD – The Watch and Jewellery Show – both of which lend the city an exclusive air every year in spring time.

Top events all year round Celebrate festivals with the people of Basel as they happen: join the life-loving and enthusiastic residents as they celebrate carnival like nowhere else! It may last for only three days, but the city prepares for it 362 days in advance. Besides this, the keenly loved FC Basel

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ADVENTURE

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MUNICH | GERMANY

One perfect day in Munich Text by Miles Butler Photos: Munich Tourist Office Modern Munich is bursting with prosperity – construction cranes tower above the city and its mediaeval cobblestone streets now conceal fibre-optic cables. Riverbank regeneration projects have re-established Munich as a city of parkland and more than 200km of cycle paths make it one of the most bicycle-friendly cities in Europe.

The Alps rise in the distance to lure outdoor-loving Bavarians all year round.

It’s true that many Munchener hibernate during the winter months – cosy in their apartments watching Bayern Munich dominate European football – but as the first shoots of spring appear, cafes and beer gardens burst back into life.

A former Qantas flight attendant, now Munich local, plots one perfect day.

07:00 Start the day with a run, cycle or swim at Olympiapark, the architecturally adventurous sporting complex designed for the 1972 Olympics. Climb the 60m Olympiaberg for a good view of the city at sunrise – or take the lift to the viewing platform of the 290m Olympiaturm TV tower for a panorama. Next to the park is the unmistakable landmark of the “Four-cylinder” BMW headquarters.

Housed in the giant silver “salad bowl” next door is the BMW museum.08:30 Once an area popular for artists, Schwabing today is a late-night precinct of bars and nightclubs. However, the cafes around the Munchner Freiheit open early and are perfect for breakfast. The full breakfast at Cafe

Munchner Freiheit involves a symphony of juice or prosecco, fruit, pastries, muesli, boiled eggs, smoked salmon and prawns.

Towards the end of summer, you’ll find trays of zwetschgendatschi, a traditional Bavarian cake made from damson plums. Have coffee at one of the smaller bars nearby or stroll back along the impressive Ludwigstrasse and take a break at Cafe an der Uni (Cadu), across from the university.

09:30 A two-minute walk east takes you into the Englischer Garten. This sprawling 370ha park follows the Isar River and stretches from the city centre to the outskirts. Head north, away from the city, and the park becomes quieter and much more rural. Closer to the city are the Chinese Tower, Japanese Tea House, Monopteros Greek temple and, in winter, a Christmas market. There is little wildlife to speak of, but certain spots are known to be popular with nude sunbathers.

10:00 Munich is an unlikely city to find surfers. But look out for the wetsuits and surfboards near the southern entrance to the Englischer Garten, on Prinzregentenstrasse near the Haus der Kunst art museum. The small Eisbach canal is a manmade tributary of the Isar, and the standing wave that forms near the Himmelreich Bridge is renowned for river surfing.

For years the city tried, unsuccessfully, to stop the foolhardy from surfing in this dangerous spot. But in 2010, civic leaders relented. Most days, surfers line up to take the icy plunge. The bridge is the perfect vantage point.

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11:00 Munich officially dates back to the 11th century, but there has been a church on Petersberg (Peter’s Hill) since the 8th century. Rebuilt several times, finally in the 14th century, Peterskirche (St Peter’s) is the oldest parish church in Munich. The stairs to its 56m balcony in the steeple are steep, but the 360-degree view is worth the climb. No building in the inner city can be built higher than the towers of the nearby Frauenkirche cathedral. On one side is a bird’s-eye view of the bustling Viktualien Market and across to the Alps. Opposite are Marienplatz and the old city. Time and crowds permitting, there is a dress-circle view from here when the glockenspiel in the Neue Rathaus (New Town Hall) chimes and the figurines do their Cooper’s Dance – originally to commemorate the end of the plague in 1517 – every day at 11am (plus midday and 5pm in summer).

11:30 Manufactum on Dienerstrasse is an eclectic lifestyle store specialising in quality goods, from cosmetics to clothing, foodstuffs to furniture and hardware. Although a garden pump or Bavarian felt slippers might not be on the shopping list, you can be sure something will tempt. Stop for coffee or a late breakfast at Brot & Butter, the bakery at the store’s entrance. Munich locals have been shopping at Dallmayr next door since the 1670s. If planning a day in the Englischer Garten or a bike ride along the river, order a picnic here. Look for Pata Negra ham from Spain, Epoisses cheese from France, Greek olives, Jordanian dates, Persian pistachios, wild Atlantic prawns, Swedish gravlax, or truffles from Alba. There’s a wine shop, a prosecco bar, oyster bar and a coffee shop upstairs. Resist the chocolates here; instead, head to Elly Seidl Pralinen at 1 Maffeistrasse or 2 Am Kosttor for the best truffles. Tempting window displays reflect holiday seasons and boxed selections make perfect gifts. Can’t decide? The dark bitter rum won’t disappoint.

12:30 Oktoberfest lasts only two weeks, but Munich is the beer capital of the world all year round.

Today, six breweries dominate the market.

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Augustiner is the oldest. The beer hall on 27 Neuhauserstrasse, Augustiner Grossgaststatte, is very traditional and dark inside. In good weather, the courtyard at the rear, with its shady arcades and painted frescoes, is a welcome oasis in the middle of a busy city. Try a simple Bavarian lunch of weisswurst and bretzn (white sausage and pretzel). The traditional Bavarian beer is weissbier, unfiltered and brewed from wheat and barley.

Helles (light) is probably the most popular beer drunk in Munich, but Edelstoff lager is Augustiner’s best.

14:00 An Italian villa in Munich? Indeed. The Stadtische Galerie im Lenbachhaus once belonged to painter Franz von Lenbach and houses old and new works by local artists. It is famous for its collection of Blaue Reiter (Blue Rider) paintings – the early 20th-century movement founded by Wassily Kandinsky and Franz Marc. The gallery reopens this month after an expansion and restoration directed

by Sir Norman Foster.

16:00 The Auer Dult (Meadow Festival) is on this month (also July and October) at Mariahilfplatz. Look beyond the displays of cheap and bizarre junk and discover Europe’s largest market for ceramics and kitchen goods. There are also stalls selling books,

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maps, rare prints, second-hand lederhosen, handmade jewellery and cosmetics – plus food and entertainment. Each fair goes for nine days.

If a visit doesn’t coincide with Oktoberfest or the Dult, or if flea markets in general have little appeal, Glockenbach and Sendlinger Tor are urbane residential neighbourhoods of cafes, bars, fashion and furniture shops. Start at the beautiful Gartner Platz and head south-west along Klenzestrasse. Behind the small church of St Stephan on Stephanstrasse is the former graveyard of Sudfriedhof, now a park. Opened in the 16th century to bury plague victims, the monuments have been renovated and today its cool, shady avenues and park benches provide a tranquil sanctuary for locals.

20:00 The once-rundown Haidhausen, aka French Quarter, has morphed into a gentrified precinct of bars and restaurants, cobblestone laneways and designer shops. Goldloch, at 11 Johannisplatz, is the perfect wine bar for a quiet drink 62 May 2013 EVENT TOURISM MAGAZINE

or a light dinner. Try a trio of saibling (lake trout) or a fillet of venison with ramson spatzle (Bavarian noodles). The nearby Tramin, at 7 Lothringerstrasse, is Goldloch’s older sibling.

It focuses on fine dining and earned its first Michelin star in 2011.

The walk back to the city is easy, from Wiener Platz downhill past the Maximilaneum. This Renaissance palace is the Bavarian State Parliament, and has commanding views across the Isar and along Maximilianstrasse. Wander along this grand avenue past its museums and designer boutiques. This is a perfect time to window-shop.

23:00 You’ve earned a nightcap, perhaps at the GamsBar on Briennerstrasse. The nearby Bayerischer Hof hotel has six bars, four are open until 3am. Have a quiet drink at the Falk, or enjoy live jazz in the Night Club, one of the country’s best jazz venues, which has hosted the likes of George Benson, Marcus Miller and Al Jarreau.

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