Essential Guide To Paddling The Parks

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CONTENTS 5

In The Wake Of Explorers By Kurt Repanshek

Captain John Smith spent three years exploring Chesapeake Bay. You could spend a lifetime paddling in it.

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The Caves And Coves Of Channel Islands National Park

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In the Shadow of Crags By Peter Wise

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Charting Course By Sea Kayak Across Yellowstone and Grand Teton

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21st Century Couriers de Bois By Bryan Hansel

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Return Home Safely From Your Paddle.

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Tracing Ed Abbey’s Voyages

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A Grand Trip With Friends By Joe Miczulski

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30 Great Paddles For Your To-Do List By Kurt Repanshek

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No Dam Slows The Yampa River

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Paddling Below The Misty Mountains By Jameson Clifton

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Clean Waters Run Deep By Kurt Repanshek

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Water, Water Everywhere...To Paddle.

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Your Essential Parks Paddling Directory

Fleeing the bustle of L.A. isn’t that tough. You just need to head west into the Pacific Ocean with Channel Islands Outfitters.

Climbers know well the peaks of North Cascades National Park. Peter Wise, with paddle in hand, took another approach to getting to know the park.

Sea kayaks are a unique, and welcome, way to explore these two Rocky Mountain jewels. Let the guides from O.A.R.S. show you how.

After the bugs and crowds had gone, three paddlers set out from Voyageurs National Park on a fall odyssey to Grand Portage National Monument.

Life jacket? Check. Float plan? Check. Cold water immersion avoidance? Check. Have you covered the rest of your paddling precautions?

In the throat of the Colorado River, in a place called Cataract Canyon deep within Canyonlands National Park, Ed Abbey found bliss...and so can you with the crew from Western River Expeditions.

Though the wait-list for a private trip permit for a Grand Canyon river trip is years long, tapping into your paddling network can get on on the river sooner.

From national park paddling trips that are sublime, to great whitewater routes, and great family paddles, there’s something for you in the National Park System.

When the calendar rolls over to May and June, the snows come down as meltwater from the roof of the Rockies, swelling the Yampa River and bringing floaters an incredible ride with Holiday River Expeditions through Dinosaur National Monument.

Long before Lord of the Rings, there were the Misty Mountains, and below them in Fiordland National Park is Milford Sound, where kayakers are dwarfed by peaks that cascade down to the water’s edge.

From Gateway National Recreation Area in New York/New Jersey, south to Big Thicket National Preserve in Texas, and west to Olympic National Park, National Parks Conservation Association staff work to ensure clean, healthy waters for your paddling adventures.

Cast your eyes across the National Park System and you’ll likely find a water trail within reach, possibly in your backyard.

Traveler’s expansive list of park paddling destinations.

Editor: Kurt Repanshek Art Director: Courtney Cooper Special Projects Editor: Patrick Cone Director of Development: Dayna Stern Editorial intern: Jameson Clifton

Contributors: Jameson Clifton Bryan Hansel Joe Miczulski National Park Service

Deby Dixon Rebecca Latson Peter Wise

National Parks Traveler’s Essential Guide To Paddling The Parks is published by National Park Advocates, LLC, to showcase how best to enjoy and explore the waters of the National Park System. National Park Advocates, LLC, P.O. Box 980452, Park City, Utah, 84098. © 2015 Essential Guide to Paddling The Parks. All rights reserved. The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in any form without written permission from the publisher.

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lat water. Whitewater. Tranquil pools and rising tides. All this and more abounds in the National Park System’s water world.

Though often described as “more than 84 million acres” of landscape, the system also embraces endless miles of streams, lakeshore, and ocean front. It’s a watery landscape you can explore for half-a-day, or for the rest of your life.

Run with the Atlantic Ocean tides down Cape Lookout National Seashore in North Carolina, or use them to reach the Ten Thousand Islands area of Everglades National Park. Venture into the Pacific Northwest to explore Ross Lake at North Cascades National Park, as Peter Wise did for his story on page 14, or head to Olympic National Park, where the demolition of the Elwha and Glines Canyon dams has opened up more than 70 miles of river for paddlers.

You can retrace the past, as Bryan Hansel did for his story on page 22 about paddling from Voyageurs National Park to Grand Portage National Monument. Curious about private Colorado River trips through Grand Canyon National Park? Joe Miczulski shares his trip of a lifetime beginning on page 30. Cast your eyes beyond U.S. borders, as Jameson Clifton does on page 44, and you’ll find an amazing paddle in New Zealand at Fiorland National Park.

Beyond the park units with their waterborne adventures, there are more than a dozen water trails overseen by the National Park Service worth dipping a paddle into.

Sit back, relax with our 2nd Annual Essential Guide to Paddling the Parks, and begin planning your next adventure.

~ Kurt Repanshek

on the cover Amy and Dave Freeman paddle away from Partridge Falls on the Pigeon River. It’s the last portage on the river before reaching the Grand Portage National Monument. Photo by Bryan Hansel.

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contributors Bryan Hansel, who regularly paddles the national park units along Lake Superior as owner of North Shore Expeditions, a sea kayak guiding company based in Grand Marais, Minnesota, is a freelance writer, award-winning professional photographer, and certified American Canoe Association L4 Open Water Coastal Kayaking Instructor. Keep abreast of his paddling adventures via his Paddling Light blog, or by catching one of his photography workshops.

Born in the United States, Jameson Clifton moved to Australia as a child. Holding dual citizenship, his life has since been split between the two countries. In 2012 he graduated from the Queensland Academy for Creative Industries, an International Baccalaureate creative arts school.

Following graduation he undertook a gap year, living and working in the alps on the South Island of New Zealand and backpacking around Japan.

In 2014, at 22, he transferred to the University of Utah in Salt Lake City, where he is currently completing his BFA in Photography and working for a number of local publications. In his free time he enjoys exploring the mountains, skiing, traveling, and an abundance of other outdoor pursuits.

Joe Miczulski, a University of Idaho alum, recently retired after 35 years with the U.S. Forest Service. He has worked as a ski area permit administrator, wildland firefighter, and professional ski patroller. Born to run away from his native New Jersey, he is often found hiking, biking, or skiing in the Sawtooth or Wood River valleys of central Idaho, and whitewater rafting throughout the western U.S. Among the rivers he’s checked off so far are the Colorado through the Grand Canyon, the Yampa and Lodore through Dinosaur National Monument, the Middle Fork of the Salmon, the Main Fork of the Salmon, and the Lochsa.

Peter Wise, who kayaked with friends on Ross Lake in Washington’s North Cascades, is a writer and editor, as well as an avid backpacker, paddler and trail runner. A former newspaper journalist, Peter worked in the high-tech industry for more than 20 years before recently returning to writing full time. His wilderness adventures have stretched from kayaking through the Broken Islands Group off British Columbia and along Mexico’s rugged Baja coast to trekking among the mountain peaks in Chilean Patagonia.

Paddling Through History

By Kurt Repanshek

On The Captain John Smith Trail

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e knew we were being watched.

We skimmed across the water, with our paddle blades rising and falling in a quick cadence.

From its tall perch atop a pine, a bald eagle slowly rotated its white-feathered head and kept its eyes on us as we paddled further across Menokin Bay towards Cat Point Creek.

Though this bay is said to be the Rappahannock River’s largest tributary, with several holes plunging more than 30 feet deep, our five kayaks were alone on the water. Only the birds watched us, though there could have been an otter or beaver looking on from the understory along the shores.

Moments earlier we had slipped into the bay’s tea-colored water and now, having crossed the

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Menokin with its numerous duck blinds and rimming marshes, our small flotilla of red, blue, yellow, and cedar-strip kayaks threaded the creek’s narrow channel that cuts across Virginia’s Northern Neck and ties back into the Rappahannock.

The banks were overgrown. There were Loblolly pines, Sweet gums, oaks, cedars, and sycamores. Nodding waves of wild rice, cattails, Marshmallow, Switch grass, Great bulrush, wild iris, grew along the shore. This marshy tangle forms a thick veil along the two shores, and hemmed us in as the channel thinned. It was home to great blue herons, belted kingfishers, osprey, tiger swallowtails, and marsh crabs.

Captain John Smith presumably encountered a similar scene sometime between 1607 and 1609 (one historian puts it at July 1608) during his explorations of the Chesapeake Bay and its major tributaries. The Englishman was searching for the mythical Northwest Passage that would provide a quick route to the Orient, but three years of exploration failed to find it, because it didn’t exist. But the captain did discover a place where, as he wrote in his Description of Virginia in 1612, “the mildnesse of the aire, the fertilitie of the soil and the situation of the rivers are so propitious to the nature and use of man as no place is more convenient for pleasure, profif and man’s sustanence.”

The Chesapeake Bay is the nation’s largest estuary. It, or its tributaries, borders parts of Maryland, Delaware, Virginia, reaches into New York and Pennsylvania, and even to West Virginia. Many rivers drain into the Chesapeake, and America’s earliest colonial-era cities were situated at

Captain John Smith’s map of the Chesapeake region was published in England in 1612. It locates more than 200 Indian towns, and carries an illustration of Chief Powhatan.

or above the fall line of these rivers, including Richmond, Virginia, on the James River, Fredericksburg, Virginia, on the Rappahannock, Washington, D.C., on the Potomac, and Harrisburg, Pennsylvania, on the Susquehanna.

Other streams and rivers—the York, Patuxent, Nanticoke, Choptank, and Elk, to name a few—drain more than 64,000 square miles of land.

The Chesapeake, with its waterscape and surrounding countryside, offers one of the most enticing trail networks in the entire National Park System. Along the Captain John Smith

Chesapeake National Historic Trail, more than 2,000 miles of shoreline, counting all of the backwaters, coves, bays, rivers, and streams, await paddlers. It was here that the Park Service launched the nation’s first national water trail in 2006. It’s perfect for a canoe, kayak, and even a Stand Up Paddleboard in places.

Occasionally visitors will even watch a 60-foot trawler pass by.

The trail blends our country’s foundational history with current events.

Charming towns are home to the working watermen who harvest blue

“There is but one entraunce by sea into this country, and that is at the mouth of a very goodly Bay…Within is a country that may have the perogative over the most pleasant places of Europe, Asia, Africa, or America, for large and pleasant navigable rivers…Here are mountains, hils, plaines, alley, rivers, and brookes all running most pleasantly into a faire Bay compassed but for the mouth with fruitful and delightsome land.”

– Captain John Smith, Description of Virginia, 1612

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crab, oysters, and shad (which author John McPhee called the “founding fish”). And there are seemingly endless miles of water-supported recreation.

You can boat, fish, or simply cool off in a river or bay.

What’s the best way to approach this watery treasure? That’s almost beside the point. There are well-known areas, and not-so-well-known areas. There are places where you must count your strokes. There are places of solitude, where the heavily vegetated shorelines close in on you, and practically embrace you. There are places where you can close your eyes, and feel the rise and fall of your boat with the currents. You’ll wish the day was longer.

I found myself on Cat Point Creek on a drizzly, late-May day when the air temperature was struggling to reach 65 degrees Fahrenheit and the sun wasn’t going to shine. The creek ties Menokin Bay, on the north side of the neck, with the Rappahannock River on the south. Four centuries ago, Smith and his crew took their 28-foot “shallop” up the Rappahannock. They made it as far as present-day Fredericksburg, where the Great Falls on the river

forced them to turn back.

When Smith explored these waters, he counted more than 200 Indian villages, and mapped the coastal areas that supported agriculture. At one point the captain feared for his life after being stung in the arm by a stingray. Another time, he was reportedly held captive by Indians.

There’s a possibility that Smith even followed this route up Cat Point Creek across the Neck, though on this day I wasn’t searching for evidence of that. Rather, with Suzanne Copping of the National Park Service and Richard Moncure of Friends of the Rappahannock, I simply wanted to gain a sense of the vast possibilities of paddling the Captain John Smith Trail.

My normal paddling waters are the big lakes of Yellowstone National Park and the fast, rapid-filled rivers that roar through Dinosaur National Monument. While there would be no rapids this day—only a subtle tidal shift and a living landscape— the history held in this countryside is rich and deep. It reaches back to the country’s birth, and before. To reach our put-in on Menokin Bay, we

Cat Point Creek is just one small slice of the waters connected to the Captain John Smith Chesapeake National Historic Trail / Kurt Repanshek

traversed the plantation once owned

by Francis Lightfoot Lee, a signer of the Declaration of Independence. Long before Lee there were at least two Indian settlements here along the 19 miles of Cat Point Creek.

Heading out across the bay, Moncure pointed out that we were seemingly passing through time, from the 1700s of the Menokin settlement to farther back to the days of Pocahontas.

We inched up the creek, and were soon ducking beneath snarls of branches and dodging tree trunks that time, and strong winds, had toppled into the water. The current was sluggish and not a challenge, though the creek banks closed in, and made it tricky to maneuver. While it’s possible to slowly navigate across the Neck into the Rappahannock, that was not in our

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plan this day. We were just out to enjoy one small stretch of the water trail.

The creek might seem inconsequential when you consider the more than 2,000 miles to be explored, but its waters are considered to be some of the cleanest in the watershed. Its setting reminded us of what once was found across the Chesapeake landscape.

The connection to Menokin, where the Menokin Foundation is working today to preserve the skeletal remains of Lee’s home, is just one spot where partners—federal agencies such as the National Park Service, state agencies that operate parks, nonprofit groups such as the Friends of the Rappahannock—meld their skills and talents to bring significant depth and breadth to the trail, both on the water and on the surrounding lands.

After the morning paddle on Cat Point Creek, Ranger Copping and I headed out with our kayaks for a launch site on the Rappahannock River below Fones Cliffs. This sheer, four-mile-long, 100-foot-tall cliff is studded with fossilized shark teeth and scallop shells.

Thanks to the river’s fish, as well as the healthy geese and duck populations, the cliffs are also home to one of the highest concentrations of bald eagles on the Eastern Seaboard. We spotted a few as we paddled the river’s warm waters, as well as a few herons. We wished we could linger.

Captain Smith’s journals describe three American Indian settlements above the cliffs and a skirmish with a few dozen Rappahannock warriors. But today the main threat here is development, which could lead to homes atop the cliffs, though there is an ongoing attempt to purchase the land to add to the adjacent Rappahannock River Valley National Wildlife Refuge.

Below the cliffs, the current is slow, and the rain continues.

But we’re not about to let these showers drive us to shelter.

Captain Smith surely wouldn’t have, so we paddled on.

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The Menokin Foundation is Restoring the Past

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ou don’t need to paddle to enjoy this trail, as history and beauty runs right down to the waterline. Our group headed to the Cat Point Creek put-in, but before dipping a blade we briefly explored the remains of Francis Lightfoot Lee’s 18th century mansion. Lee was one of the signatories of the Declaration of Independence, and had a particularly generous father-in-law. Upon his marriage in 1769 to Rebecca Tayloe, John Tayloe II gave the couple not only the property along Menokin Bay, but also paid for construction of their Neo-Palladian home.

Today just a crumbling shell of the couple’s mansion remains standing, but that slowly is changing. While the Menokin Foundation is working on a $7 million, 4-year effort to save the mansion, its intention is not to fully recreate the two-story house. Rather, the plan is to restore some of the original walls, and use structural glass to finish the remaining walls. Visitors to this “glass house” would be able to gain insights into 18th century construction practices and, in general, come to understand a chapter of America’s history.

Some of the decorative stone trim that dresses out the sandstone walls remains, as do remnants of the white oak used throughout the interior. Though much of the house has collapsed, the original architectural plans remain and are being used to help with the reconstruction.

Behind the house, you can see where terraced gardens once grew, and further down are faint traces of “rolling roads” that led down to the bay so barrels of tobacco could be loaded onto barges that would then transport the goods down to the Rappahannock River 4-5 miles downstream.

When construction is finished, artworks, audio programs, discreet lighting and augmented reality productions will be employed to explore the history of the home and the time the Lees lived here.

The Menokin Foundation is just one historical connection to the water trail.

The National Park Service has worked with the local tribes to identify and map indigenous cultural landscapes in the region, organized multi-stakeholder work on landscape conservation projects, secured Land and Water Conservation Fund dollars for land protection along the trail, and been involved with preservation work at the site of Powhatan’s village. It was there that Captain Smith was taken after he was captured.

Today the remains of the Lees’ mansion are partially protected. Down the road, the entire mansion will be pieced back together, though with glass walls in places to allow you to “see” into the construction and history. / Kurt Repanshek photo, glass house rendering courtesy of Menokin Foundation.

RESOURCES: A Boater’s Guide to the Captain John Smith Chesapeake National Historic Trail This softcover guide, produced by the National Park Service in partnership with the Chesapeake Conservancy and the Chesapeake Bay Foundation, is a good resource. It provides a deep overview of the water trail, and offers trip itineraries with notations for the optimal watercraft.

Maps pinpoint trailheads, and there is some historical perspective on Capt. Smith. You can download the entire guide, or just portions you are interested in.

Yes, There’s An App for The Water Trail Download the free Chesapeake Explorer App for your smartphone; it can help you identify more than 50 units of the National Park System in the region, locate other national trails, find places to hike, bike, fish and paddle, craft cycling or driving tours, or get directions to lighthouses, museums.

Find Freedom to Float The Freedom to Float campaign put together by the National Parks Conservation Association is a great resource for finding spots to paddle along the trail.

The program aims to bring greater awareness to the issue of public water access throughout the Chesapeake Bay region.

NPCA, the National Park Service, and dozens of local partners are working to create 300 water access sites by 2025. Over the past year, they’ve opened 36 public water access sites throughout the Chesapeake watershed.

This year, partnerships are forming in towns and cities throughout the region to open another 40 or more access sites in the Chesapeake.

Along the Captain John Smith Trail, NPCA is working to create a true

water trail experience with the construction of paddler access points and canoe-in camping along the Potomac River, starting at George Washington’s Birthplace National Monument. A 30-mile stretch of the trail will feature four paddling/ canoe-in camping access points along the Middle Potomac in Virginia and Maryland.

Via the Freedom to Float website, you can quickly figure out a great trip for a day or longer. Check out the “Paddling Pirates” of the Chesapeake Paddlers Association and you’ll be able to join a group for an evening paddle.

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Early fall is an exquisite time to float the Colorado River through Cataract Canyon in Canyonlands National Park. And how better to enjoy that float than with fellow park travelers on this National Parks Traveler adventure?

After shoving off into the Green River from Mineral Bottom just upstream of the confluence with the Colorado River, we’ll spend six days drifting through one of the most mesmerizing landscapes in America. There will be days when we float through calm pools and stretches of river, and a day of busting through some of the most renowned whitewater in the Southwest. We’ll explore the Doll House with its geologic oddities, and look for ancient ruins and pictographs in other side canyons in the national park.

This trip, during southern Utah’s typically warm and glorious early fall weather, is set for September 28-October 3, 2015. It will be guided by the professional river runners from Holiday River Expeditions.

They’ll provide natural history interpretation, and cater to us with three sumptuous meals a day, beginning with lunch the first day and ending with lunch on the last day.

But once ashore, noted national park historian Dr. Alfred Runte, who consulted for and appeared on the Ken Burns/Dayton Duncan documentary, ThePADDLING National Parks: America’s Best Idea, and wrote 10 2015 Essential Park Guide GUIDE | Winter 2014-2015

National Parks, The American Experience as well as Yosmite: The Embattled Wilderness, will lead campfire discussions about the National Park System and how it has changed over the decades.

During the day, award-winning photographer Patrick Cone will offer instruction and tips for capturing the striking scenery, and Traveler Editor-in-Chief Kurt Repanshek will be along to keep the parks conversation flowing. We’ll also dig nightly into Traveler’s “swag” bag of giveaways.

This trip will take you through some of the most remote, rugged, and amazing landscape of the Southwest and arguably the Lower 48.

This is the perfect trip for lovers of whitewater, red-rock, and the Southwest. Families with enthusiastic and adventurous youngsters at least 8 years old are welcome. Meals range from blueberry pancakes or made-to-order omelets for breakfast, wraps and deli sandwiches for lunch, and steaks, fish, or chicken for dinner. Special dietary needs can also be easily handled with enough notice.

We’ve reserved September 28-October 3 for Traveler readers.

Pricing is $1,150 per person. To reserve your spot, call Holiday River Expeditions at 1-800-624-6323 and tell them you’d like to be on the Traveler trip. Or, book online at Holiday’s website. Space is available for 18-22 park travelers.

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f you’re trying to find your way off of the Los Angeles freeways, away from the urban crowds, just offshore is an island wilderness waiting for you. Channel Islands National Park is close, wild, and beautiful. These five islands, just 18 miles from Ventura, beckon to those with a need for quiet and solitude.

The park is an ocean gem, a wilderness within sight of the bustling Southern California coastline, filled with wildlife, birds, caves, and tidepools.

There are more than 2,000 species of animals and plants in the park, 145 of them found nowhere else. You might spot migrating gray whales, or even the immense blue whale, in the Channel Islands National Marine Sanctuary that surrounds the islands. Santa Cruz Island is the most popular landing, with over 60,000 acres of room to explore with the Nature Conservancy managing 60 percent of the land and the National Park Service the rest. For an interesting read, take along the classic book, The Island of the Blue Dolphins, which is based on the true story of a native woman’s life on San Nicolas Island, just to the south.

And one of the best ways to explore this park is by water.

Channel Islands Outfitters has been leading clients out to the islands for years and is ready to put you in a kayak and show you around their backyard. They have a number of trips, from novice to expert, but their most popular trip by far is the Caves and Coves Classic, according to guide Matt Adkisson. Or try the Caves and Kelp Combo for a bit of snorkeling, or camp

Exploring Channel Islands National Park by kayak allows time to explore some of the caves that the ocean over time has cut through some islands / Channel Islands Outfitters

overnight for a special experience.

The Caves and Coves Classic trip includes transportation to the island from the Ventura Harbor, and a 3-hour kayak trip around Santa Cruz Island, and lunch. You’ll explore up to a dozen sea caves, and watch peregrine falcons surf the air current while California sea lions lay about on the beaches below. You’ll possibly see the stealthy Channel Islands fox, which has just recently come back from the brink of extinction. Clients can snorkel, explore the tidepools, and hike on other trips.

Channel Islands Outfitters’ guide to paddler ratio is kept under 1 to 8, which makes for a personal experience. “Their equipment was in great condition, masks were clean, and the

kayaks had nice supportive backs,” one client wrote. “The snorkeling was breathtaking and the cave kayaking certainly makes our list of top 10 lifetime adventures.”

Lunches are healthy and tasty, with ingredients all locally sourced from Channel Islands Provisioners.

They might include fare such as red curry chicken, fresh berries, and puff pastries. In line with their environmentally conscious business, they use sustainable packaging, meaning no plastic whatsoever. Speaking of which, Channel Islands Outfitters, with roughly 5,000 clients annually, is committed to, “Saving the oceans through education, adventure, and outdoor experiences,” and is putting their money where their mouth is.

As a 1% For the Planet partner they donate 1 percent of their gross sales to local non-profit organizations that help educate young people about the oceans.

“Working on the ocean lends a firsthand and intimate glimpse into the critical issues that are facing the largest ecosystem on planet Earth,” they write.

The outfitter also is committed to offset all of its carbon emissions, and they calculate their carbon emissions on an annual basis.

Their education programs include Stand Up Paddleboard (SUP) instruction, wilderness medicine workshops (in cooperation with the NOLS), and an ocean risk management program.

“We take a lot of kids’ groups, including Boy Scouts, out to the islands,” says Adkisson.

If you’d like to learn to paddle a SUP, or kayak, their two rental locations in Goleta and Santa Barbara Harbor will set you up. Spend a bit of time to have some instruction while you’re there; it’s well worth it. A fourhour kayak rental will cost around $30, and they have all of the gear for SUP, surfboards, and sea kayaks. It’s an intimate experience being on the ocean in a sea kayak, and the Channel Islands are a great destination.

If you want to master the SUP, the guides will teach you the correct ways, and places, to learn, and to avoid the “5 Common SUP Beginner Mistakes,” which include: staying on glassy waters, holding the paddle in the correct position, account for the movement of the water, using your core for power, and of course, to not be overconfident.

Once you’ve mastered those, it’s time to paddle on out.

Or, next June show up for the Save the Mermaids Day. In conjunction with World Ocean Day, Channel Islands Outfitters and local non-profit “Save the Mermaids” help clean up the beaches of plastic waste. In sea-shell bras and smiles, they’ve made a difference in our environment.

And while the urban centers sprawl and the traffic roars just miles away, you’ll have a great time discovering the islands, the ocean, the environment, the wildlife, and even yourself on this island getaway.

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Kayaking Camping AND

in the Ross Lake National Recreation Area

By Peter Wise

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e started paddling from the south end of Ross Lake just as a breeze began to riffle the blue-green water. By the time we were ready to stop for lunch an hour later, the north wind straight out of Canada had whipped the calm waters into a froth of whitecaps. So instead of picnicking on the beach, we gobbled down some energy bars and fought our way north through the chop.

The day started calmly enough as we rolled out of Seattle at dawn and headed up Interstate 5, and then east on the North

Ross Lake from Desolation Peak / Fred Hammerquist

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Kayaking on Ross Lake / Syd Hammerquist

Cascades Highway to Marblemount.

To camp overnight in the Ross Lake National Recreation Area you must first get a wilderness permit at the Marblemount Ranger Station, and then drive another 20 minutes to the Colonial Creek Campground on Diablo Lake.

That’s the most common put-in for Ross Lake paddling trips.

Diablo’s calm water reflected the surrounding trees and blue sky as we loaded up our kayaks with five days’ worth of supplies. The four-mile trip up the northeast arm of Diablo Lake, to the base of the Ross Lake Dam, provided a good shakedown for challenges yet to come. At the takeout we used a well-marked phone to call the Ross Lake Resort for a ride. Within 10 minutes we loaded our kayaks on to the back of a large truck for the rough, twisting drive up a steep portage road to the top of the dam. That’s where the wind, and the real kayaking, started.

We paddled through the rough waters, keeping an eye out for the large campground signs. We passed Green Lake and Cougar Island campgrounds on our left, then cut across the lake to the eastern shore, where

we passed Roland Point and McMillan campgrounds. We spotted the sign for Spenser’s around the next point and, as luck would have it, our campsite faced north. The waves smashed into the dock, raising it up and crashing it back down.

We were ready to have a late lunch and set up camp, so we took turns approaching the lee side of the dock, climbed out as quickly as possible, and then hauled our fully-loaded kayaks out of the roiling water. The campground was set in a stand of evergreen trees; a beautiful spot. There was a metal food locker, gravel tent pads, a picnic table and large fire ring. As we ate our lunch on the less-windy side of the peninsula we pitied the two canoers stoically paddling past us, going north into the waves.

Ross Lake was calm once again the next morning, and the shimmering waters reflected the various mountains surrounding the lake. There was still snow on the tops of some of the peaks, even in mid-September. We had plenty of room to ourselves on the 23-milelong lake that stretches north into Canada, one reason we’d scheduled

Ross Lake, part of North Cascades National Park, can be accessed from both British Columbia as well as Washington state. If you plan an overnight trip, you’ll have to obtain a free backcountry permit from the park. Permits can be obtained at the Wilderness Information Center in Marblemount, Washington.

Permits cannot be obtained in advance; you pick them up when you reach the park.

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our trip after Labor Day. While we did see a couple of other kayaking groups, and a fair number of small motorboats bringing tourists north from Ross Lake Resort, we were on our own.

On the way, we saw several small groups of backpackers on the East Bank Trail. At several points, we traveled up side gorges, floated between steep cliffs, and saw waterfalls dropping spectacularly into the lake.

We reloaded our kayaks the next morning and leisurely paddled up the east side of the lake to Ponderosa, our second campsite four miles to the

north. On the way, we saw several small groups of backpackers on the East Bank Trail. At several points, we traveled up side gorges, floated between steep cliffs, and saw waterfalls dropping spectacularly into the lake.

Ross Lake, and its two siblings, Gorge and Diablo, were created between 1927 and 1953 as dams were constructed by Seattle City Light as part of the Skagit River Hydroelectric Project. While power generation was the main intent of the three dams, the lakes created by them offer miles and miles of paddling with nearly 20 campgrounds to choose from.

Twelve of the 19 campgrounds have boat docks. Spencer’s did, but Ponderosa did not. Fortunately, the weather remained calm and these landings were uneventful. There

Ross Lake side canyon / Fred Hammerquist

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Ross Lake boat dock / Fred Hammerquist

were plenty of large driftwood logs to cradle our kayaks above the rocky shore, but unfortunately our new camp sat near a swampy area of lakefront. The mosquitos quickly found us, as did some cute, but pesky, chipmunks. I left my backpack unattended for just a few minutes, and when I returned a group of the litter came running out of it with part of a candy bar.

One of our paddlers was an experienced backpacker. He knows how to travel light, but this was kayak camping. So, he’d brought his castiron Dutch oven, an 18-inch diameter paella pan, and an insulated container with a block of ice to protect the shrimp, chorizo, and fresh fruits and vegetables. While his kayak was a chore to haul out, it was worth it with the gourmet paella that evening, and Dutch-oven-baked blueberry cobbler and cinnamon rolls the next morning.

During our two-day stay at Ponder-

If you’re not heading for Marblemount, you can obtain a permit at the Golden West Visitor Center in Stehekin (for trips beginning in Stehekin); the Glacier Public Service Center in Glacier; the Park /Forest Information Center at SedroWoolley (for trips beginning from the Baker Lake Road or Hozomeen only); the Hozomeen Ranger Station; the Methow Valley Visitor Center, Winthrop (USFS) (for trips beginning along the Twisp River Road or entering the park via Winthrop on SR 20), or the Chelan Ranger Station, Chelan (USFS) (Chelan Summit Trail or for trips beginning along the Twisp River Road).

osa, we hiked to 6,120-foot Desolation Peak, where in 1926 a fire burned had burned down the forest. Desolation Peak later became famous for its well-preserved lookout tower, and in 1956 was manned by the Beat writer Jack Kerouac, who wrote his book on the experience, Desolation Angels.

Bring plenty of water, and start early if you decide to climb though, because it’s steep and dry. But it’s a rewarding summit, with 360-degree panoramas.

Back at the lake, we paddled across

and checked out the lower reaches of Big Beaver Trail, a meandering, well-shaded walk with mild elevation gain. Three miles up the trail is a vast stand of old growth cedars.

Despite that howling wind the first day, the weather was calm for the rest of our trip, but paddlers should always be prepared for those afternoon winds. And make sure you pack your passport. You just may want to keep going and paddle all the way north to Canada.

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A sea kayak trip at Yellowstone allows you to take a different approach to viewing the West Thumb Geyser Basin / O.A.R.S.

Fleeing Yellowstone & Grand Teton Crowds by Sea Kayak

H

ad we been ashore, our feet might have been badly scalded, or worse, if we had absent-mindedly stumbled into a hot spring. But here, in a sea kayak just off the West Thumb Geyser Basin, the bubbling waters popped to the surface of Yellowstone Lake, merely a harmless marvel to watch.

The park visitors on shore watched us, envious no doubt of our ability to meander along the edge of the geyser basin while slowly being rocked to the rhythm of the big lake. Along with the bubble trails surfacing from unseen lakebed vents deep below, we passed cascades of steaming waters pouring directly into the lake from overflowing Lakeside Spring.

We paddled by Fishing Cone, once a vigorous geyser that 19th century mountain men boastfully said they used to poach freshly caught trout.

These days it’s a comparatively meek, simmering hot spring. As we paddle towards shore for a closer look at Yellowstone National Park’s geothermal plumbing, the puckering sounds of mud pots and their pungent, sulfurous odor carry on the air.

Far and away, most Yellowstone visitors miss such a watery perspective of a geyser basin. Not only does a sea kayak provide a unique view of the West Thumb basin (as well as the bubbles percolating to the surface), but it comes without the crowds encountered on boardwalks. There’s

time enough for that on a Yellowstone vacation. Setting off in a sea kayak, well, that’s a bonus.

Small groups of kayakers enjoy this view of West Thumb three times a day in summer, with O.A.R.S. guides leading the way. Safe boating practices are explained first, and then kayaking instruction, at the Grant Village boat launch. After that, you shove your two-person kayak off into Yellowstone Lake. For three hours you paddle about West Thumb, taking in the unique views of the geyser basin, searching the lodgepole forests that rim the shores for wildlife.

Early risers can sign up for a 6:30 a.m. departure. The soft morning light glints from the lake surface and the

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The calm waters of Jackson Lake are perfect for getting comfortable with a sea kayak / O.A.R.S.

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2015 PADDLING GUIDE

Paddling and mountains go hand-in-hand on Jackson Lake in Grand Teton National Park / O.A.R.S.

fumarole’s steam clouds rising from the geyser basin. And then there’s the wildlife. Squadrons of white pelicans fly by. Bald eagles perch patiently high in the trees, waiting for one of the lake’s famed Yellowstone cutthroat trout to rise too near to the surface. Bison graze the grassy meadows in the lodgepole pine forest.

Travelers to northwestern Wyoming should also make time to visit Yellowstone’s southern neighbor, Grand Teton National Park. Though world-famous for its mountain crags, Grand Teton has its own watery adventures. There are smaller lakes, such as Jenny, String, and Leigh, or you can set out with O.A.R.S. on a twonight tour of Jackson Lake, always with the Tetons in sight. Beneath towering Mount Moran, your base camp is secluded on Grassy Island in Moran Bay, on the far side of the lake.

Grassy Island brings you a more restful, even contemplative, exploration of Grand Teton. There’s a lot to see. Make the short trip across the small bay and hike up Moran Canyon, explore the western shoreline by kayak, fish for a trout dinner, or head out after dark for a moonlight paddle. Take your sketchpad and, like Thomas Moran, try to capture the mountain that bears his name. The late-19th century painter brought his colorful visions of Yellowstone and the Tetons back to the halls of Congress; you can take yours home to rekindle memories of your adventure year after year.

Or, you can simply kick back and soak in the scenery.

The paddling, the campfires, and falling asleep under the stars to the rippling lake waters all combine for the perfect outing to get youngsters (minimum age is 4) and teens hooked on the outdoors, not another video game or Facebook post.

Extend your vacation with a third day in Grand Teton by floating down the legendary Snake River with O.A.R.S. Drifting downstream from the put-in near Pacific Creek in river rafts, you might spot an osprey perched overhead, or pulling a fat trout from the Snake. River otters frolic along this stretch of the river, while moose, pronghorn antelope, and bison roam the river banks. Lunch in a cottonwood or aspen grove, with the Tetons a majestic backdrop.

With the centennial of the National Park Service in 2016, more people are looking to the national parks for a vacation. With O.A.R.S., you will go beyond the crowds.

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218-244-6506 Full Service Outfitter for Voyageurs National Park and Rainy Lake Enhancing your experience in and around Voyageurs National Park Shuttle service and wilderness delivery service available for canoes, kayaks, camping equipment and consumables.

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Paddling the

By Bryan Hansel

Border Route in the Boundary Waters

I

t’s a 200-mile paddle along Minnesota’s Border Route, from Crane Lake on the eastern side of Voyageurs National Park to Grand Portage National Monument on Lake Superior. There are twists and turns as it follows a series of pristine, remote lakes linked by portages along the Minnesota and Ontario border. The Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness is a popular destination for paddlers who want to experience the tranquility of America’s mostvisited wilderness area. It’s also one of the legs of the historic North West Company’s fur trading routes, giving today’s visitors an idea of what life was like here in the 18th century.

Most paddlers attempt the route during the summer months, but Dave and Amy Freeman and I scheduled our paddle in October – when the deciduous trees are bare, the ice is forming, and snow falls. We would start on Crane Lake in the national park, then paddle the route through BWCA to the halfway point, just north of Ely, where we would resupply, and then finish the route While leaving and reentering the wilderness usually requires a permit from a U.S. Forest Service office, so few people use the BWCAW in October that the Forest Service waives the permit fees and offers free, self-issuing permits. It created the ideal situation for us and gave us the flexibility to resupply instead of carrying three weeks of food.

We began our journey under a clear blue sky reflected in the placid waters of Crane Lake coupled with unseasonably warm temperatures. I boarded my solo canoe in sandals and shorts, and followed Dave and Amy’s canoe as they turned north. The northern section of Crane Lake narrows to a passage less than 150 feet wide, with cliffs surrounding the waterway.

The waterways for the rest of the day were narrow

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Some days on the Border Route can envelope you in fog / Bryan Hansel

and lead to motorized portages.

Before the Boundary Waters was designated as a wilderness area 50 years ago, many of the lakes were connected by portages that were wide enough for motorboats, which rolled along on specially designed carts mounted on railroad tracks. There were even motorized portages, where a motor at the top of the hill pulled a small rail car, loaded with gear and boats, to the top, and then controlled its descent down the other side. There are still a few of these motorized portages on the western side of the Border Route. There was no one at the station in October, so we threw our canoes and packs over our shoulders and humped the gear up the hill and back down the other side.

The routine soon became familiar; paddle to the end of a lake, land, haul your canoe and gear over a rocky and muddy trail to the next lake, rinse and

e

Amy and Dave Freeman pull their canoe across the mud in a dried up shortcut outside of Ely. Their dog Fennel waits to get into the canoe.

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Massive cedar trees, islands in the mist, and open water crossings are all part of the Border Route / Bryan Hansel

We spent 10 days on our way to Ely, paddling past granite outcroppings and solving navigational challenges. There are so many pine-, spruce-, and birchcovered islands on these lakes that they ran out of original names.

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repeat. Then try and find one of the 2,200 campsites, spread over a million acres of wilderness and 1,000 lakes.

Across the border in Quetico Provincial Park in Ontario there are another million-plus acres, and another 2,000 campsites and 600 lakes; plenty of room for canoeists to explore.

We spent 10 days on our way to Ely, paddling past granite outcroppings and solving navigational challenges. There are so many pine-, spruce-, and birch-covered islands on these lakes that they ran out of original names. The mapmaker resorted to naming them: Twenty-Five Island, Twenty-Seven Island, and Forty-One Island. We paddled down a lake so convoluted that it earned the name Crooked Lake.

We paddled past overhanging cliffs of granite rich with Ojibwa pictographs of moose, cranes, canoes and handprints. The Ojibwa pictographs (some believed to be more than 400 years old) were painted with red ochre combined with a liquid, perhaps bear fat. When they dried, the paint chemically bonded to the rock, making them last for centuries. We admired their art and felt humbled by all those who came before us on this route.

After our resupply in Ely the weather turned. We camped near one of the largest and oldest white cedars in the BWCAW at Basswood Lake, where we wore our warmest gloves, stocking caps, and down coats. Amy

and Dave posed under the cedar, but it is so large that they couldn’t hug it even while holding hands. Amy found a one-inch layer of ice near a portage one morning, as the sun cast long shadows across the water.

Fortunately, we arrived at our final challenge before the lakes iced over.

To avoid the rapids and waterfalls of the Pigeon River, the old Voyagers portaged along an eight-and-a-halfmile-long trail that leads from these inland lakes to Lake Superior. But, before those Voyageurs could rest and celebrate at their annual gathering in Grand Portage, they carried three 90-pound packs up and down the portage on each trip for six total trips. I only had to carry one canoe, and one pack. After a morning of portage we arrived at Grand Portage National Monument’s reconstructed fur trading fort, the wooden posts forming a protective fence towered over our heads.

We glided along on Lake Superior, the traditional finish to the route, and I pondered why people paddle. It’s a way to get away from our workaday lives, reset our natural body rhythms to that of the wilderness. It was a time of renewal. Wilderness, and particularly the wilderness in the Boundary Waters, will provide that for you. Paddle here, and you’ll emerge ready to tackle anything.

And, after paddling the full length of the BWCAW on the Border Route, you’ll feel like you just did.

Be ready for the unexpected.

Wear It!

þ Check weather forecast þ Life jacket þ Paddle þ Fun trip þ Return home to loved ones This message brought to you by the National Safe Boating Council. safeboatingcampaign.com

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BoatingSafety Whether you canoe, kayak, raft, or use a Stand Up Paddleboard to explore the National Park System’s waters, pair safety with your enthusiasm.

P

addle within our national seashores and lakeshores and you might encounter riptides and big waves.

Riverrunners encounter rapids that could capsize them. Huge lakes, such as those in Voyageurs, Yellowstone, Glacier, and Isle Royale national parks, have cold, debilitating water that can be life-threatening, even in the warm-weather months.

So go prepared. First off, make sure you have a life jacket. The

Kayakers heading deep into the Beardslee Islands of Glacier Bay National Park need to go fully prepared / NPS

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National Safe Boating Council (NSBC) promotes the use of life jackets across all water sports through its annual campaign, Wear It! “Accidents on the water can happen much too fast to reach and put on a stowed life jacket,” the NSBC notes.

“Drowning is the reported cause of death in three-fourths of all boating fatalities – and 84 percent of drowning victims in recreational boating accidents were not wearing a life jacket in 2013.”

And one size doesn’t necessarily fit all. There’s a specific life jacket for each sport, from power boating to SUPs. With that understood, your life jacket must be U.S. Coast Guard approved, the NSBC notes. And it should fit properly. If someone can pull the life jacket up over your head while it’s buckled or zipped in place, it’s too big for you. If you fall into the water and your buddy is trying to pull

you back into your raft or canoe or rowboat, well, you see the problem.

A snug-fitting life jacket signals a properly fitting life jacket. Also, life jackets meant for adult-sized people do not work for children. If you are boating with children, make sure they are wearing properly fitted life jackets appropriate to their weight and size.

Do not buy a life jacket for your child to “grow into.”

Be prepared, with skills and gear, whenever you paddle on any vessel. Here are some things to keep in mind: • If you’re paddling in the ocean (Florida Bay at Everglades National Park, for example) or along coastlines (Cape Lookout National Seashore), know the tides. If the tide is running against you, you won’t be able to travel as fast as when it’s flowing with you. Pace yourself and be realistic about how many miles a day you can cover.

• Always dress for the water temperature. Wear layers in cooler weather, and bring an extra set of clothes in case you get wet.

• Carry an extra life jacket in your craft, as well as one extra paddle per boat.

• Always have safety gear such as throw ropes, bailing buckets or bilge pumps, a sound-producing device, like a whistle, and first-aid kits. Make sure you have a functioning flashlight or headlamp. You may find yourself paddling after sundown, and they are required in some areas.

• In places like Lake Superior (Apostle Islands National Lakeshore and Isle Royale National Park), Yellowstone Lake (Yellowstone National Park), and Rainy Lake (Voyageurs National Park), storms can approach quickly, whip up both winds and waves, and create inland seas that can flip boats. Keep an eye on the skies while paddling and, as a general rule, stay within a quarter-mile of shore.

• A GPS is handy, but batteries can die at the worst time. Skills with a compass and set of pertinent topographic maps (not the maps parks hand out at entrance stations) provide sound backup.

Follow: @SafeBoatCouncil /NationalSafeBoatingCouncil

• Whether you’re heading out for a day, or a week, file a float plan with someone you trust that includes details about the trip, boat, passengers, towing or trailer vehicle, communication equipment, and emergency contacts. Download a free float plan template at FloatPlanCentral.org.

• Cellphones are ubiquitous, but you might not always be within reach of a cell signal. If you’re really heading far into the outback, consider renting a satellite phone or look into investing in a Personal Locator Beacon (PLB).

When activated, a PLB sends a coded message on the 406 MHz distress frequency via satellite and earth stations to the nearest Rescue Coordination Center, which then notifies local Search and Rescue forces. Registering your PLB with NOAA is a must!

• Check with the specific park you’re visiting to see if they require other items, such as wetsuits or helmets.

While it’s early in the year, it’s not too early to join in the National Safe Boating Council’s Ready, Set Wear Dos and Don’ts of Cold Water Boating: It! Life Jacket World • Make sure everyone is wearing a USCG-approved life jacket. Even experiRecord Day event enced swimmers will likely experience shock within one minute in the frigid scheduled for May water and lose muscle control within 10 minutes.

16. This global • Catch your breath. A sudden, unexpected fall into cold water causes an initiative aims to involuntary gasp (or torso) reflex. It takes less than a half cup of water see how many in your lungs to drown. If you remain calm, you have a greater chance of people can wear self-rescue. Don’t panic. a life jacket at the • If you fall into the water, stay afloat with the help of your life jacket, regain same time on the control of your breathing, and keep your head above the water so rescuers same day. Last year, can see you.

6,973 participants • Look for ways to increase your buoyancy. If you’re in the water with others, (including 49 huddle together with everyone facing inwards to keep afloat and warm. dogs!) turned • Don’t apply heat to the arms and legs of a rescued victim. This sudden out at 175 events change in temperature could cause cardiac arrest. around the world to set the current record. Please visit Stages of Cold-Water Immersion: readysetwearit.

• Cold shock. You have one minute to adjust to the cold shock response, com for more don’t panic. information.

• Swimming failure. You have 10 minutes of meaningful movement to And if you’re in get help and get out of the water. the mood, May 15 is • Hypothermia. You might have up to one hour before you become the NSBC’s national unconscious from hypothermia.

Wear Your Life • Post-rescue collapse. Don’t give up and collapse at the time of rescue.

Jacket to Work Day. NationalParksTraveler.com 27 • And, don’t get wet! Cold-water immersion is the cause of many boating-related fatalities. The danger increases as water temperature decreases below normal body temperature (98.6 degrees F).

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“...one of the sweetest, brightest, grandest, and loneliest of primitive regions still remaining in our America...”

R

oller-coaster wave trains. Holes that could swallow Volkswagens. Scenery that takes your breath away. Those are just three aspects to floating the Colorado River through Cataract Canyon in Canyonlands National Park.

Since the first white men descended this stretch—John Wesley Powell and crew back in 1869—the river has been hallowed water for rafters and paddlers in search of whitewater.

Ed Abbey called this landscape “one of the sweetest, brightest, grandest, and loneliest of primitive regions still remaining in our America...” And during breaks between the frothing waves you come to understand why. Calm stretches that interrupt the wave trains let you relax, listen to the canyon wrens, and admire the red-rock formations rising above you.

Western River Expeditions will help you experience Cataract Canyon, the hallmark of a 100-mile, four-day float down the Colorado through the heart of the national park.

This trip is not for everyone; the minimum age is 10-12. Rapids named Capsize, Big Drop, and Satan’s Gut can merit a Class V rating, justification enough for the rollercoaster analogy. Sign on, and the adventure will stick with you for a lifetime.

Depending on the month you choose and the water level you encounter, you might

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buck the rapids in a 37-foot-long J-Rig Raft designed by Western’s founder to ride and flex over the large waves of the Colorado River and which has a variety of seating options for all levels of adventure. Or you might head down river on an 18-foot oarpowered raft, or maybe a raft powered by six-to-eight paddlers turned into a fine-tuned team by the rapids.

“The brawling waters roar below, rainbows of broken sunlight dance in the spray,” Abbey wrote as he prepared to run Cataract. “We descend.”

Fortunately, river time, as they say, is not deducted from your lifetime. In Cataract Canyon there is time enough to wander side canyons with Western’s guides, who will lead you to prehistoric ruins and stories the ancients wrote on cliff faces.

Back in camp, relax while the guides turn into chefs with meals ranging from steak and fresh fish for dinner, and fresh fruit, pancakes, eggs, and plenty of coffee to get you going in the morning. In between those meals, you’ll enjoy wraps, cheeses, and fresh vegetables for lunch.

When it’s all over, when you’ve finally come ashore in Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, you’re shuttled back to Moab via a flight that takes you back over this wonderfully rugged setting, taking your breath away again.

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y d o b y n “Is A e v i l A Out ” ! ? e r The iczulski

By Joe M

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If you’ve had the good fortune to attend a Bruce Springsteen and The E Street Band concert, you know the feeling when you shout out your answer.

Want to experience that for two to three weeks every day on the water?

Join in on a Colorado River float trip through the Grand Canyon.

I

’d been rowing my whitewater raft for over 25 years, primarily on Idaho’s famous Main and Middle Fork Salmon rivers, but hearing the stories of how difficult it was to score a Grand Canyon river permit led me to believe I’d never get the opportunity to test myself on the mighty Colorado’s rapids.

Don’t believe everything you think.

On the weekend of my 51st birthday, a message was on the answering machine. With my jaw on my chest, I handed the phone to my wife and replayed the message – could we carry a cooler for a guy we shared a Middle Fork trip with seven years ago on a 16-day trip down the Grand Canyon?

Oh, and by the way, we launch in seven weeks.

When an applicant finally draws a permit for a private Grand Canyon river trip (some people

have been on the waiting list over 15 years!), the National Park Service tries to give the permit holder a year’s advanced notice because properly planning the logistics and personnel for a 16-day or longer trip is critical to success. Luckily for us, the trip planning was already done. We only had to pay our share of the expenses, gather our personal gear, get our raft ready, and show up.

As excited as we were to have this surprising opportunity, we had more than a few concerns as we drove south from Idaho. We only knew a few of the people in this group. Would we all get along for 16 days? Would everyone pull their weight? Would anyone be a liability on the water? Did we bring enough of the right kind of personal gear? Would I navigate these rapids successfully or embarrass myself? Would our adult beverages last us through the whole trip?

At Lee’s Ferry, the launching point for Grand Canyon float trips 16 miles below

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Glen Canyon Dam, we met the group.

Most were from Colorado, others from Alaska and Utah. All the boatmen had rafted before, but several like me had no Colorado River experience.

As we rigged the seven boats in our flotilla it quickly became apparent that this was a well-organized group. The 16 of us were split into smaller teams to take care of camp chores: cooking, dish washing, and fire pan, water, and groover (river runner’s slang for the portable toilet required to carry out all solid human waste). Teams would rotate chores every evening and have every fourth day off. A three-ring binder with laminated pages listed which raft was carrying what non-perishable food items and essential group gear like water purifiers, kitchen tarps, and extra toilet paper. Menus and recipes were provided for each meal. Coolers had several inches of water frozen an inch at a time over multiple days (to keep them from splitting) in a commercial freezer and were packed with the first things to be used on top.

After rigging the boats, the return of our vehicle shuttle drivers, and

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floating our rafts down 100 yards to what’s known as the private boater’s camp, we loaded into a van provided by one of the restaurants at the top of the canyon and headed up for a group dinner. With the frenzy of boat rigging done, we learned more about our fellow river rats—one boatman was a retired neurosurgeon and his wife was

The Grand Canyon National Park ranger arrived early and matched our photo IDs to the names on the permit, checked for mandatory gear, and gave us the health, safety, and resource protection orientation talk. A quick breakfast and then we were off—conch shells blowing, whistles tweeting, toasting the River Gods for good luck

Proper set-up at the top of rapids to stay out of the deepest holes and tallest detonating waves is the key to running these rapids, and scouting the big rapids to find where to enter them is critical. a retired nurse. Several other boatmen and passengers were aces, having been down the Colorado five or more times. Another boatman was a fireman and swift-water rescue instructor. More reason to relax.

Launch day dawned clear but cool.

Excitement and anticipation buzzed through camp. It was obvious most everyone had a fitful night’s sleep.

as we entered the clear, cold, but soonto-be-muddy main current.

As we floated under the Navajo Bridges four miles downstream from Lee’s Ferry, California Condors soared in the thermal air currents rising from the canyon. We prayed that this was a good omen As we began to encounter the Colorado’s rapids, I found the

whitewater skills honed on Idaho’s rockier, more “technical” whitewater worked just fine. The biggest adjustment was getting used to how quickly the river speeds up from slow flat water to fast whitewater. Proper set-up at the top of rapids to stay out of the deepest holes and tallest detonating waves is the key to running these rapids, and scouting the big rapids to find where to enter them is critical. The importance of hitting waves straight on rather than sideways also can’t be overstated.

Only about 10 percent of the Colorado’s 226 miles from Lee’s Ferry to the take-out at Diamond Creek is whitewater. That makes the other 90 percent a beer drinker’s paradise, right?

Maybe for passengers, but for those on the oars, unfortunately, no. A skill almost as critical as the ability to read whitewater is to find and follow the “bubble line” that separates the huge hydraulic eddies swirling virtually the full length of the river. They just love to suck a boat in until it circles back upstream to where it first got caught.

What we learned to appreciate between the rapids is the majesty of the canyon. Layer upon layer of multihued sandstone, limestone, shale, and schist with cracks and fissures filled with once-molten granite or lava that reach up to the sky. Most layers are horizontal, but some are almost vertical.

What tremendous force caused that to happen, and how could this water we’re on have carved through that?

Ashore, there were explosions of wildflowers and cactus in bloom.

There are slot canyons—some so narrow we brace our feet on one wall and hands on the other to inch our way up—that suddenly open into huge spaces that we imagine as patios for giants. Waterfalls and springs with hanging gardens that seemingly pop out of vertical walls. Evidence of ancient peoples that left us imagining the toughness they must have had to survive here. This is true grandeur of the Grand Canyon.

No Colorado River trip goes completely without incident, and despite the many strengths of our group, ours was no exception. In the set of rapids

Floating the Colorado River through the Grand Canyon brings a mix of water colors, and a dazzling scenery that dwarfs you / NPS (left), Joe Miczulski (this page)

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Seem from the rim, the Colorado River beckons to most Grand Canyon visitors / Patrick Cone

known as the “Roaring Twenties” we had boatmen and passengers washed out of two separate rafts. As we collected all the people and flotsam of our group’s first washout, a raft from another party flipped and we rescued those boaters and righted their raft, too.

Strong up-canyon winds had to be frequently rowed against to make any

bellies with hands on our heads, as if we were in combat protecting ourselves from shrapnel.

The large pour-over on the right side of Serpentine Rapid caught one of our rookie captains not paying attention and flipped his raft. All hands on deck as we rescued the captain and his passenger, flipped their boat back upright,

Do we really have to leave this place?! Smiles came as we recounted the hurdles overcome, the rapids survived, the silly antics in camp and on calm river stretches, and the jaw-dropping beauty and unexpected surprises within the canyon. progress downstream, until they blew so strong we simply had to pull over and hunker down until they passed.

The only thunderstorm of the trip unleashed a microburst of 70+ milean-hour winds as we set up camp, throwing loose items up to 200 yards away and forcing us to lay flat on our 34

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and retrieved poorly tied-down bags floating downstream.

At Lava Falls, the biggest and fastest rapid on the Colorado, the carnage continued with another captain’s raft flipping in the famous V-wave and the captain receiving lacerations to his fingers from grabbing a cargo net

as they flipped. Our neurosurgeon, fireman, and another trained boatman performed first-aid on the unlucky captain’s lacerated fingers, successfully cleaning and bandaging them for the remainder of the trip.

We had a few more days of floating after Lava Falls and some rapids to still be concerned about, but nothing quite like what we had already done. It was time to really relax and enjoy the canyon and the great friendships we developed along the way.

And then, it was over.

Remorse set in as we toasted the River Gods for the last time and floated down to the take-out at Diamond Creek. Do we really have to leave this place?! Smiles came as we recounted the hurdles overcome, the rapids survived, the silly antics in camp and on calm river stretches, and the jaw-dropping beauty and unexpected surprises within the canyon. Tears of gratitude flowed for our families and friends back home who allowed us this once-in-alifetime opportunity and for the bonds we formed with these new friends that we would be leaving shortly.

Would we ever have a magical experience like this again?

30 Great

Places

To Paddle Or Float In the National Parks

By Kurt Repanshek

What would a paddling guide to the National Park System be without a list or two of some great paddles and/or floats to add to your to-do list? The following lists offer enough to satisfy just about everyone: Folks simply looking for an enjoyable paddle with a range of challenges, those focused on whitewater, and those with young families they want to get out on the water.

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10 Great

Paddles in the Park System You want to get out on the water, preferably for a few days at least. Scenery, wildlife, and solitude are on your checklist. Here’s where to go.

3. Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, Utah

Flat Mountain Arm, Yellowstone National Park / Kurt Repanshek

1. Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming Yellowstone Lake, covering 136 square miles, has three arms—Flat Mountain, South, and Southeast. All get you far from the front country and the bison jams on the Grand Loop Road. All offer wilderness settings roamed by bears, moose and, occasionally, wolves.

From the put-in at Grant Village, you can reach Flat Mountain Arm in about a half-day and spend the rest of your trip exploring that arm. Or you can overnight at Flat Mountain, and the next morning head deeper into the South Arm. While Peale Island looks like an inviting destination, it’s the base for a ranger cabin and not open to camping. There are some nice sites on either side of the arm, though, one near Chipmunk Creek on the eastern shore, and another on the western shore at Southwest Bay. Camp near Chipmunk Creek and you can hike across The Promontory for a view of the Southeast Arm.

2. Voyageurs National Park, Minnesota Located in northern Minnesota, with the Canadian border across the water, this park can take an effort to reach, particularly if you want to paddle your own boat.

But once here, you’ve got a nice collection of lakes to paddle: Kabetogama, Namakan, Sand Point, and the big one, Rainy.

There are many smaller lakes, too, some that you can piece together with some portaging to really get away from others and experience the wilderness as the couriers de bois did 300 years ago.

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Sure, the desert setting in southern Utah doesn’t immediately conjure visions of watery adventures. But head out onto Lake Powell from either Hite or Hole in the Rock and you’ll be able to leave the main reservoir behind and work your way up into one of the tributaries for a nice mix of paddling and red-rock.

From Hole-in-the-Rock you can head up the Escalante River and explore some of its side canyons, while from Hite you can dart into the Dirty Devil River or head into White Canyon to set up camp.

4. North Cascades National Park, Washington Most travelers to North Cascades National Park are captivated by the snowy crags of the high country. But embraced by those mountains are a number of lakes perfect for paddlers.

As Peter Wise tells on page 14, Ross Lake lets you string together a number of days on the water, with overnights in designated campsites.

5. Apostle Islands National Lakeshore, Wisconsin Twenty-one islands in 21 days? Not likely. But that doesn’t mean you can’t plan a kayaking outing for two or three of the lakeshore’s islands.

There are two launch points within the lakeshore, Meyers Beach and Little Sand Bay. Or, for $20, the folks at Apostle Islands Cruises will transport a canoe or kayak to the island of your choice.

To help plan your trip, download the lakeshore’s paddling guide. On it you’ll find a mileage chart to help with your planning. Park officials don’t suggest trips for open cockpit boats or canoes.

6. Cape Lookout National Seashore, North Carolina Slip through New Drum Inlet between North Core and South Core Banks and you have miles to explore in your kayak. Head south, and cruise South Core Banks, looking for appealing campsites behind the dunes as you work towards the Cape Lookout Light and Cape Point.

Apostle Islands National Lakeshore offers some great adventures for sea kayakers / NPS

There are flat water sections of the Green River in Canyonlands National Park / NPS

Round the point, pass through Lookout Bight and Barden Inlet and you can work back to your starting point.

Go north from New Drum Inlet and slip into Ocracoke Inlet to Portsmouth Village and then work your way south back to your vehicle via Core Sound.

Just be sure to check the weather and grab a tide chart before heading out.

out a great trip for a day or longer.

Check out the “Paddling Pirates” of the Chesapeake Paddlers Association and you’ll be able to join a group for an evening paddle.

Or, check out the story beginning on page 5 for one possibility.

7. Everglades National Park, Florida Most people look at Everglades and see colorfully hued birds, toothy alligators and crocs, and tropical vegetation.

Paddlers can see all that, too, while enjoying the wet side of this park.

From designated canoe trails to the isle-dotted waters of the Gulf Coast that make up the Ten Thousand Islands area to the maze of mangroves in Hell’s Bay, Everglades offers weeks of paddling canoers and sea kayakers.

8. Captain John Smith Chesapeake National Historic Trail, Virginia/ Maryland/Delaware With some 2,000 water miles to choose from, deciding where to paddle is your first dilemma. Visit the National Parks Conservation Association’s Freedom to Float program and with their partners you can quickly figure

Captain John Smith Chesapeake National Historic Trail / NPS

9. Glacier Bay National Park, Alaska You can lose yourself—literally, if you’re not careful—in the upper bay with its numerous fingers.You could paddle out directly from Bartett Cove, or make it a bit easier on yourself by hitching a ride on the Baranof Wind for an up-bay taxi.

Just remember, exploring Glacier Bay by sea kayak is definitely not a trip for novices. There are strong tides to be dealt with, self-contained camping, and wildlife issues, such as the coastal

brown bears. But if you can handle all that, this is a trip of a lifetime. A few years back I ran into a couple that had spent 17 days up bay. My envy was palpable.

10. Canyonlands National Parks, Utah Though most paddlers might associate Canyonlands with the rolling wave trains to be found on the Colorado River through Cataract Canyon, there are still waters to be found here for canoers. The Green River, upstream of its confluence with the Colorado, offers great flat water paddling filled with rich history.

A popular put-in is at Mineral Bottom about 5 miles north of the park boundary. Another option is to put in at Green River State Park, which gives you an extra three days of paddling before you reach Mineral Bottom. Then it’s on into Labyrinth and Stillwater canyons and down to the confluence with the Colorado River. There you can either paddle upstream to Moab, or have a jet boat meet you to make that last leg much easier.

Be sure to carry a map that notes where you’ll find cliff dwellings and carved signatures from early 19th century explorers.

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10 Great Whitewater paddles

There are a lot of whitewater runs in the National Park System just waiting for you out there. Some for experts, others intermediates, and a few that will help a novice gain confidence.

1. Grand Canyon National Park’s Colorado River, Arizona You’ll spend more time floating flat water than crashing through giant rapids here, but the grandeur of this canyon, and the intensity of the whitwater makes this the ultimate river experience in the Lower 48...and some would say the world.

Landing a private permit is a oncein-a-lifetime achievement. Spread the word through your paddling network that you’re up for the challenge and you just might land an invitation, as Joe Miczulski did for the story that begins on page 30.

2. Gauley River National Recreation Area, West Virginia The season here is short, just six weekends in early fall. But this 25-mile run is plenty challenging. The fall hardwood forests make this a particularly beautiful float...if you can relax long enough to enjoy the colors.

“The upper Gauley offers tremendous class III to V+ drops in steep, turbulent chutes such as Pillow Rock, Iron Ring and Sweet’s Falls, and rocky routes that demand constant maneuvering such as Lost Paddle and Shipwreck,” notes the Park Service.

3. Great Falls of the Potomac, Virginia Just 15 miles from downtown Washington D.C., this raucous stretch of water is not for novice paddler. Park Service personnel point out that, “In the last decade several drownings and multiple incidents of kayaker swims, injuries, and loss of equipment have occurred here.” Great Falls of the Potomac rapids vary from Class II (novice) to Class V+ (extreme).

Some sections of the Potomac River flow next to the historic Chesapeake & Ohio Canal National Historical Park.

For descriptions of the rapids, water levels for running, and for avoiding, check out American Whitewater’s website.

4. Obed Wild and Scenic River, Tennessee Tennessee’s Obed is one of the bestkept secrets of the National Park System. The Obed Wild and Scenic River challenges even the best paddlers.

The park staff notes, “Potentially lethal hazards abound on all sections of the park’s streams. Undercut rocks and rocks are piled together to form ‘sieves’ and fallen trees act as ‘strainers. You will frequently find these positioned immediately below difficult rapids, and

Kayaking the Great Falls of the Potomac is best left for expert paddlers / NPS

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“The trip begins deceptively easily, but quickly develops into serious, powerful whitewater which is challenging to even expert and advanced paddlers,” the park notes. “Numerous sheer, massive sandstone cliffs are visible on the run. The scenic values of the gorge are of the highest order.”

7. Canyonlands National Park, Utah The Obed Wild and Scenic River is a challenge awaiting experienced paddlers / NPS

if you’re outside of your boat there is a chance that you may be washed into and under one of these features with incredible force. The water will pass on through the obstacle but your body may not.”

It’s intense, and the best paddling is during the spring runoff and fall when rains can pump up the rapids after summer’s low flows.

5. Wrangell-St. Elias National Park, Alaska If you have a thirst and time for adventure, this park is for you. Your float runs from the Nizina Glacier to the town of Chitina down glacially-fueled rivers—the Nizina, Kennecott and Chitina. All flow within the biggest national park in our system. This 90mile run has been called “Class III with Class V consequences.”

There will be bears, too, and you’ll have to filter your river water to get the glacial silt out.

Cataract Canyon has been called the best two-day river run in the park system. Put-in near Moab and take-out on Lake Powell in the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area. You’ll be treated to towering red-rock cliffs and 14 miles of rapid transit.

The rapids are rated up to Class V, tantalizing even experienced boaters.

Toss in the fact that this is one of the most remote areas of the Southwest and you have a true wilderness experience.

Novices looking to experience this river might want to join Traveler’s float trip with Holiday River Expeditions in late September.

8. Upper Delaware Scenic & Recreational River, New York/ Pennsylvania You’ll find more than 70 miles of free-flowing water on this section of the Delaware River. It’s the longest free-flowing river in the Northeast, and has great opportunities for improvement, as you’ll find everything from flat water to Class II rapids.

The Upper Delaware’s boating season extends from mid-April through October. The water, even in summer, can be cold enough to cause hypothermia.

9. Dinosaur National Monument, Utah/Colorado Dinosaur is actually a two-fer: the Green and Yampa rivers. The Green is a bit more rambunctious than the Yampa, which has the scenic edge. Land a trip on the Green and you’ll encounter rapids named Disaster, Hell’s Half-Mile and Triplet that range up to Class III, depending on water levels.

The Yampa River has Warm Springs Rapid, a hearty Class III, and sometimes higher. This rapid was formed in June 1965 by weeks of rainfall that undercut a bank causing a rockslide to block the river.

After the confluence of the Green and the Yampa paddlers encounter three more rapids of note: Moonshine, S.O.B., Schoolboy and Inglesby.

10. Olympic National Park, Washington

The newest white-water destination in the park system is still being formed.

The removal of the Elwha and Glines Canyon dams on the Elwha River has revealed a short stretch of river that claims some Class II-III rapids, fed by the Olympic Mountain glaciers.

6. Big South Fork National River and Recreation Area, Tennessee The rumpled landscape of the Appalachians must have been designed by a river runner. There are twists, bends, rock mazes, and chutes along the Big South Fork of the Cumberland River, with a mix of paddling experiences. If you’re a beginner make sure you choose the right section!

Expert paddlers will test themselves along the 11-mile, Class III-IV, stretch from Burnt Mill Bridge to Leatherwood Ford.

Big South Fork National River and Recreation Area / NPS

Upper Delaware Scenic & Recreational River / NPS

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10 Great Family Paddles

Not all rivers, streams, and lakes in the National Park System require well-honed paddling skills. Here’s a look at a few places, on generally placid water, where you can take a few strokes.

Be sure to set aside time for canoeing at Cape Cod National Seashore / NPS

1. Grand Teton National Park, Wyoming Probably the most difficult part of paddling Jenny Lake is keeping your eyes on your work, and away from the Tetons towering overhead. Stretch out your trip by making the short portages to String and Leigh lakes.

Jackson Lake is much larger and can generate challenging conditions, but on calm summer days paddles close to shore allow you to experience this alpine setting.

2. Glacier National Park, Montana Whether you rent a boat from a concessionaire at Many Glacier Hotel, or slip your own canoe or kayak into Swiftcurrent Lake, you’ll enjoy this breathtaking setting.

Sunrise paddlers might encounter a moose munching breakfast near the lake shore. Other options include Two Medicine and St. Mary lakes. Lake McDonald can be challenging, and its cold waters debilitating and dangerous if you capsize.

3. Acadia National Park, Maine At Acadia more than two dozen lakes and ponds are open to paddlers, and some are closed to motorized craft. With a little effort, you could launch a sea kayak or canoe into Somes Sound, the only fjord on the East Coast.

For a longer day, sign on with one of the kayak guiding companies to explore the park from Frenchman Bay or maybe Blue Hill Bay. A number of businesses on Mount Desert Island rent or offer guided kayak trips.

Jenny Lake on calm days is a great family paddle at Grand Teton National Park / NPS

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4. Cape Cod National Seashore, Massachusetts During the summer rangers lead canoe trips at Salt Pond, or you can head out into Cape Cod Bay on your own or with one of the Cape’s kayak guides.

If you like more of a challenge, haul your kayak across one of the beaches and put into the Atlantic Ocean. Just remember, these waters contain great white sharks and their prey, gray seals, at times. Seashore staff recommend that you paddle in groups and say away from any seals you spot.

A number of businesses on the Cape rent kayaks.

5. Mammoth Cave National Park, Kentucky The Green and Nolin rivers are great streams for kids, with longer paddles and even overnight journeys. Bring your own canoe or kayak or rent one from one of the liveries. They’ll also provide a drop-off and pickup shuttle.

Obtain a free backcountry permit before you put-in and you can pitch your tent on the river shores or islands.

Just remember, rainstorms can quickly raise the levels of these streams, so be sure you keep your eye to the sky and the river currents.

6. Lassen Volcanic National Park, California Enjoy the tranquil waters of Manzanita Lake, with Lassen Peak looming in the distance. Pitch your camp at the lake-side campground, and rent a kayak from the concessionaire.

Summit and Juniper lakes also offer paddling opportunities, though Summit is on the small side and Juniper requires a bumpy six-mile drive on a dirt road.

Campgrounds exist at both; Juniper’s is first-come, first-served.

7. Point Reyes National Seashore, California Tomales Bay, on the protected inland side of the point, has 15 miles of paddling possibilities for novice kayakers.

You might spot Tule elk on the shores, and stingrays beneath the surface, while curious harbor seals will pop up to keep an eye on you.

Paddling amid a forest strung with Spanish moss is one of the pleasures of Conagree National Park / NPS

If you’re new to the area, sign on with one of the local guide services for a half-day of paddling. Veteran paddlers take advantage of the campsites that can be reached via the bay.

8. Congaree National Park, South Carolina This park, with its old growth bottomland forests, offers a fascinating day of paddling.

“Traveling by canoe or kayak is a great way to enjoy this primeval wilderness while floating past some of the tallest trees in eastern North America,” park staff note. “Paddling is also a thrilling way to encounter the diverse wildlife of the park. Deer, river otters, turtles, snakes, and raccoons are a few of the animals that may be seen.”

If you feel uncomfortable heading out by yourself, check into one of the ranger-led canoe trips on Cedar Creek. Just be sure to reserve your spot!

9. Big Bend National Park, Texas The Rio Grande Wild and Scenic River offers a great floating experience for families. Some sections frame you

beneath 1,500-foot limestone cliffs.

Youngsters might look for the redeared sliders, a species of turtle, while birders in the group will be fascinated by great blue herons and green kingfishers that call the river corridor home.

Experienced paddlers—whether in kayak, canoe, or raft—can obtain a backcountry permit for a private trip, while commercial outfitters will pamper you.

10. Middle Delaware National Scenic River, New Jersey/ Pennsylvania With roughly 40 miles of generally placid water, this national scenic river flows through Delaware Water Gap National Recreation Area. It’s a great place to canoe, kayak, or even tube.

The river forms the boundary between Milford, Pennsylvania, in the north and the village of Delaware Water Gap in the south.

If you’re planning to head out on a summer weekend, check with the park to see if their free shuttle service is running. (570-828-2253 or 908-496-4458)

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[ Sponsored content ]

Exploring The Last Major Colorado River Tributary

Without A Dam To Get In Your Way

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here still remains, in this heavily developed country, a place where a river runs free, unfettered by a dam and surrounded by wilderness. Look towards northwestern Colorado and northeastern Utah. That’s Dinosaur National Monument, with the Green and Yampa rivers.

By April and into May the winter snows deep along the Flat Tops Wilderness of northwestern Colorado are melting, sending water coursing and crashing its way west down the Yampa to its confluence with the mightier Green River.

And because there are no dams strangling the flow of the Yampa, the last major tributary of the Colorado River system that can make that claim, and because the flow goes through the heart of Dinosaur, a river trip here is a throwback of sorts.

There are no scheduled water releases to boost the Yampa’s currents, and nothing but rugged wilderness in the surrounding scenery.

Through the years the Yampa has defied many attempts to dam its free flow. The late David Brower fought hard to prevent a dam near Echo Park, and in doing so agreed to a dam on the Colorado River known today as Glen Canyon. It was something he long regretted.

Mother Nature has also tried to dam the river, as the folks at Holiday River Expeditions will tell you. Just after dinner on June 9th, 1965, a flash flood carried tons of rock down Warm Springs draw, effectively blocking the river channel. Within 24 hours the Yampa took aim and breached the dam, and left Warm Outstanding scenery, great meals, and off-river exploration are all part of a Yampa River trip with Holiday River Expeditions / Holiday River Expeditions

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Whether kissing Tiger Wall or crashing through Warm Springs Rapid, a float trip on the Yampa is an incredible experience / Holiday River Expeditions

Holiday River Expeditions • Running non-motorized trips since 1966 • Specialists in floating Dinosaur National Monument and Canyonlands National Park on the Green and Colorado Rivers

Springs Rapid in its wake. Today, that rapid is rated among the 10 biggest drops in the country.

For decades Holiday has run the Yampa on four- and five-day trips in May and June, when the river is flush with snowmelt and the air is slowly being warmed by the season. Come July, the runoff typically has waned, and the river is a bit too “bony” for rafts, and is best run by canoeists and kayakers.

Other than the Warm Springs Rapid (which certainly can be tricky at certain water levels) the Yampa is not overly technical. But the landscape is gorgeous and the remoteness a joy to savor and explore.

From the outfitter’s put-in at Deer Lodge you’re soon surrounded by large, towering sandstone monoliths fluted by the river. The main canyon dwarfs the boaters, who swivel their heads around in awe. Side canyons harbor alcoves and pot holes bigger than hot tubs and hide patches of history, and even prehistory. Bighorn sheep graze the grassy benches in the shade of towering box elders trees.

Perched atop cliffs hundreds of feet above the river, potholes are rich with cattails and other watery vegetation.

Here, surrounded by curious geologic formations, Ponderosa pines seem tall enough to snag a few clouds.

Holiday’s guides can lead you through this wonderland. Though it’s a national monument, many agree that it should be a national park.

But thankfully, no doubt due to that monument designation, the crowds never descend on Dinosaur, and certainly not on the Yampa.

As you float down the 46 miles of the Yampa River, and then 25 more miles of the Green, Holiday’s guides recount the history of the canyons, help you understand their geology, and the wildlife that lives here. When they’re not leading you on hikes into side canyons the guides prepare unbelievable meals in the perfect setting: a river beach with millions of stars overhead.

• Family-oriented trips

www.bikeraft.com holiday@bikeraft.com 800-624-6323

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Kayaking Milford Sound

By Jameson Clifton

The vastness of the fjord seemed to stretch on forever, a land untouched by man, full of natural wonder and life. After the afternoon rain, hundreds of waterfalls cascaded from the sheer cliffs. The misty skies above were home to exotic looking birds, the likes of which I’d never seen.

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s we paddled through the placid waterscape, a pod of bottlenose dolphins leapt playfully through the air, paralleling our kayaking triad. On the outcrops just above the water’s edge, a group of seals reclined. The gentle waves lapped at the rock formations below. This is Milford Sound, or Piopiotahi in the indigenous Maori language, New Zealand’s most popular fjord destination and a main attraction of Fiordland National Park.

After high school graduation, my parents and I traveled from Australia to Queenstown, New Zealand, on what was supposed to be a two-week vacation before college. For me it became a 6-month working holiday.

As a 19-year-old lad I undertook a job at a remote wilderness lodge on the Milford Track. The alpine wilderness and forests became my backyard, and Milford Sound was the closest thing to ‘civilization’ from our rugged abode.

I remember vividly the first time I made the two-day hike on the free

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A sunny day in a kayak on Milford Sound. Chris Sisarich / Newzealand.com

days I’d accumulated. The sight of Mitre Peak, one of the country’s most iconic summits, was simply breathtaking.

Through local connections I’d managed to get aboard a last-minute kayaking tour within the short period of time I had, a perk of working in the close-knit tourism industry. As an avid kayaker, and later a private tour guide back in Australia, Milford remains the best paddle I’ve ever undertaken to this day.

Much like Alaska, the relatively undeveloped countryside of New Zealand is home to some of the Southern Hemisphere’s most scenic natural landscapes, many of which so famously laid the backdrop to Peter Jackson’s Lord of the Rings trilogy. Several such locations lie within the boundaries of the Fiordland National Park (3 million acres) of the South Island’s southwestern corner. The topography is remi-

niscent of Western Norway reflecting millenniums of glacial and tectonic activity. This geography, combined with a prodigious amount of annual precipitation, forms a unique rainforest habitat that clings to the cliff sides and blankets the valley floor, giving refuge to flora and fauna. There are over 700 plant species exclusive to the Fiordland, as well as the world’s only flightless parrot, the kakapo, a critically endangered species.

Many visitors take it all in from the shoreline or the top deck of the cruise boats. For the more adventurous traveler though, the only way to experience this pristine wilderness is down at the water’s level. And of course, like many outdoor travel destinations, it always pays to have a guide show you around. As the longest-running owner operated sea-kayaking business in

New Zealand, Rosco’s Milford Kayaks is a great choice to get the most out of your trip to Milford Sound. By leaving the traditional tourist vessels behind you’ll be able to get up close and personal, while gliding alongside an abundance of wildlife that frequent the sound, including pods of bottlenose dolphins, New Zealand fur seals, two penguin species, and the occasional Southern Right Whale.

With a small team of certified local guides, Rosco runs guided trips that cater to a variety of physical abilities. For the novice paddler, the ‘Easy Rider’ trip combines roughly 2 hours of paddling, stopping at the 160-meter

Many visitors take it all in from the shoreline or the top deck of the cruise boats. For the more adventurous traveler though, the only way to experience this pristine wilderness is down at the water’s level.

(525 feet) high Lady Bowen Waterfall.

The best time of year for this paddle is during New Zealand’s spring and summer season (November through mid-March). At $78US per person, it is also the most affordable option; great

Waterfalls lace the landscape of Fiordland National Park / Jameson Clifton

for people of all ages and abilities.

For those with previous kayaking experience, the ‘Afternoon Delight’ is the longest and most adventurous option, offering a full-length paddle of Milford Sound, roughly 16 kilometers (10 miles) for a tround trip of 6 hours.

They depart daily at 2 p.m., weather permitting. The journey begins with the equipment outfitting and a safety briefing before boarding a “water taxi,” local dialect for a small-motorized vessel, which takes you to the drop point where you’ll begin your own kayaking adventure.

Whichever option, from the easiest to the hardest journey, none will disappoint. As every paddle stroke propels you back towards Milford, a sense of awe at the sheer size and expanse of the fjord washes over you. Even under the highly experienced guidance of your host, there’s definitely a sense of vulnerability from being totally immersed and at one with nature.

Of course after you’re safely back to land, you’ll need a place to stay. While Milford isn’t exactly a township, despite being the only settlement within the national park, there is local accommodation at the Milford Lodge, with prices ranging from USD $26 per night for a dormitory style bunk room, $99 for a basic double room, and up to $270 for a Premium Riverside Chalet. Tent and campervan parking is also available.

Despite these options however, most people stay in the adjoining township of Te Anua or Manapouri; each roughly a two-hour drive away.

New Zealand holds a special place in the hearts of those who witness its majestic beauty within the Fiordland National Park. I’d like to climb Mitre Peak on my next trip, as well as embark on a kayaking and trekking voyage to the more remote regions of the park. I’m not sure exactly when, but I know for certain I’ll be back. I simply can’t wait to paddle the pristine waters of the Southern Island again.

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Keeping Our National Park Waters Healthy

By Kurt Repanshek

The National Park System offers countless paddling opportunities...as well as impediments to paddling. There are free-flowing, gin-clear streams, and pollution threats in the form of fracking operations, agriculture, and population growth. And there are experiences that will pull you into wilderness settings that seemingly turn the calendar back a century or more.

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Whether you paddle in Yellowstone National Park (left), Dinosaur National Monument (above) or anywhere else in the National Park System, you can help the National Parks Conservation Association keep the waters healthy / Kurt Repanshek photos

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racking these issues, and working to improve the health of streams, lakes, and even ocean waters being squeezed by society, is the National Parks Conservation Association.

Whether you’re searching for a putin along the Chesapeake Bay, looking to paddle the recently unchained waters of the Elwha River in Olympic National Park, desiring a truly unique paddling experience, or are concerned about the health of the waters you frequently paddle, NPCA can point you to a program to get involved with.

Exploring Jamaica Bay At Gateway National Recreation Area Gateway National Recreation Area in the metropolitan New York-New Jersey area contains a sprawling waterfront and salt marsh that is a resting stop for migratory waterfowl, also providing fishing, and nautical mile after nautical mile of paddling.

More than a half-dozen launch sites are sprinkled around the 9,000-acre Jamaica Bay unit of Gateway that embraces the Jamaica Bay Wildlife Refuge.

Grab a permit at the Ryan Visitors Cen-

ter and set off to explore islands from your boat (the islands are protected and off-limits), marshy areas that provide habitat for some of the more than 300 bird species here, and a unique ecosystem that provides valuable mainland protection from hurricanes and other Atlantic storms.

Launch into Mill Basin Outlet from Floyd Bennett Field and you could spend half-a-day paddling through the heart of the wildlife refuge. You could easily turn that into a full-day adventure by threading your way through the “Pumpkin Patch” islets and heading towards Yellow Bar or the Black Wall before returning to the put-in.

The Wonderful Chesapeake Watershed A key NPCA initiative in the MidAtlantic region is improve both the health and public access to the waters of the Chesapeake. Staff are working to broaden the “Freedom to Float” program that expands recreational access to the Chesapeake Bay and its streams and rivers. NPCA is also a leader in a coalition seeking to reduce pollution significantly in the six

Chesapeake states and the District of Columbia by 2025 in order to secure fishable, swimmable waters in and around the national parks.

NPCA is also working to protect national park rivers and water trails from harmful energy-related infrastructure and development, such as proposed electric transmission towers across the James River in Virginia and impacts from hydraulic fracturing on the Delaware River basin.

The Chesapeake and its tributaries also serve as outdoor classrooms.

Over the past year, NPCA has worked with stakeholders to take more than 1,000 youth canoeing in the region.

Stewardship also involves adults, who have helped clean up an estimated 200,000 pieces of debris from park shorelines in the watershed.

Protecting Biscayne’s And Everglades’ Waters Renowned as a winter vacation destination, south Florida’s national parks are idyllic, but not without threats. At Biscayne National Park, the once-rich fisheries and colorful coral reef ecosystems are stressed by over-fishing,

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boaters, and climate change. The results are visible in smaller catch size of some species, damaged reefs and sea grass beds and, in extreme cases, vandalized archaeological sites. All lead to a potentially disappointing experience by the visitor.

To combat some of the problems, park officials are considering the creation of a marine reserve zone in part of the park that would be closed to fishing. “Marine reserves are the best, science-based way to protect and sustain coral reef ecosystems and fisheries populations,” says Caroline McLaughlin of the NPCA’s Sun Coast staff. “We truly hope the park prioritizes conservation and decides to create a much-needed marine reserve within Biscayne National Park. The reserve would provide a high-quality diving and snorkeling experience, especially along the park’s first-ever

Maritime Heritage Trail, for the more adventurous traveler.”

Next door at Everglades National Park, officials would like to create a wilderness waterway around the Ten Thousand Islands area, a mesmerizing part of the park flush with wildlife and paddling adventures.

Padding Through An International Biosphere Reserve A paddler’s paradise resides within Big Thicket National Preserve near the Texas border with Louisiana. It’s a geologically and botanically unique paradise at that, one shaped dramatically by the last ice glacial period.

Within the park are southeastern swamps, eastern forests, central plains, and southwest deserts.

So important is this collection of ecosystems that in 1981 Big Thicket was designated a UNESCO

International Biosphere Reserve.

Two decades later, it was declared a Globally Important Bird Area.

Launch your canoe or kayak into either Village Creek or the Neches River and you’ll float through a veritable botanical crossroads. Come ashore for a break and look closely in the forest duff for tiny, brightly colored, carnivorous plants. Of the five species found in the United States, four grow in Big Thicket.

The 21-mile Village Creek Paddling Trail arguably is the most popular inland paddling experience in Texas.

Choose the Neches River and you can paddle 80 miles through bottomland hardwood forests. It’s a watery, leafy landscape that can be explored in a day trip, or over the course of a week.

But paradise is not without threats: Poaching, illegal dumping, and development on the preserve’s borders all are concerning.

Red-Rock And Whitewater In The Southwest Expanses of high desert are cut by mighty rivers here on the Colorado Plateau of the Southwest. In Utah the Yampa, Green, Colorado, and San Juan are names well-familiar to most paddlers. But how vigorous can these rivers remain under the steady pressures of development and climate change, which is expected to bring more often, and longer-lasting, droughts?

NPCA is watching as the National Park Service works with the U.S. Bureau of Reclamation to develop the “Long Term Experimental Management Plan” that will dictate how the Glen Canyon Dam that holds back Lake Powell is operated. How that plan is written will directly impact Colorado River flows, sand bar creation, wildlife habitat, and even the condition and protection of archaeological sites along the river as it flows through Grand Canyon National Park.

Jan and Rod Ruppel at the Madonna Tree on the new TP&W paddling trail at Big Thicket National Preserve.

Within the park are southeastern swamps, eastern forests, central plains, and southwest deserts. So important is this collection of ecosystems that in 1981 Big Thicket was designated a UNESCO International Biosphere Reserve. Two decades later, it was declared a Globally Important Bird Area.

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Though undammed, the Yampa River long has drawn the attention of developers and urban officials for its water / Kurt Repanshek

The threat of longer lasting drought has NPCA staff working with stakeholders throughout the region to see how recreational and environmental values up and down the Colorado River can be maintained in the face of agricultural, municipal, and industrial pulls on the river.

Waterworks In Yellowstone And Grand Teton National Parks Though world-famous for its thermal features, Yellowstone National Park offers some of the best lake paddling in the Lower 48, while the Snake River in Grand Teton National Park next door showcases Rocky Mountain grandeur from one of the West’s fabled rivers.

At Yellowstone, the trio of Lewis, Shoshone and Yellowstone lakes offers both a place to work on your paddling skills, and to advance to backcountry traveler by kayak or canoe. While Lewis is for day trips, the other two lakes offer the consummate wilderness experience—potentially tricky waters, incredible vistas, wildlife that can include grizzlies and wolves.

Though Grand Teton is a prized destination for many because of its crags, the Snake River not only is a blue-ribbon trout fishery, but a cold, challenging, fast-flowing stream perfect for rafting and demanding for canoeists and kayakers. The park’s Jenny, Leigh and String lakes are great for day trips, while multi-day trips can be mapped out on Jackson Lake.

Threats of invasive species—New Zealand mudsnails already have made inroads to the park’s waters— require inspections of your canoes/ kayaks when you stop to pickup a permit. Keep them clean, and the waters healthy.

Glines Canyon Dam once stood here / Kati Schmidt, NPCA

A Watershed Moment In Olympic National Park The biggest riverine story of the new, and last, century has been the demolition of the Elwha and Glines Canyon dams in and just downstream of Olympic National Park.

Their removal expanded 5 miles of free-flowing river more than 14-fold.

In the process, it opened habitat for five species of salmon in numbers expected to be upwards of 300,000 a year, to reclaim the Elwha. This natural revival is important to the Lower Elwha Klallam Tribe whose culture long has depended on a healthy fishery; important to creating rich riparian habitat; and critical to bringing grins to rafters and paddlers who want to explore the river.

While rafting guides can take paddlers through class I-IV rapids, for those looking to experience the Elwha River on dry land, head to a viewpoint of the remains of the Glines Canyon Dam. A small parking area and viewpoint can be reached by following the gravel Whiskey Bend Road about one mile south from its intersection with the Olympic Hot Springs Road. While the dams may be gone, full river restoration is still at least 30 to 100 years away. Fisheries staff will continue to monitor the river’s natural recovery while leading a massive

revegetation program to introduce 400,000 native plants along the banks of the new river channel.

NPCA supports legislative efforts to designate the Elwha and 18 other surrounding waterways as Wild and Scenic, to prevent the prospect of future dams and support the continued revitalization of the watershed.

Olympic isn’t the only paddlingfriendly national park in the Northwest. San Juan Island National Historical Park offers some of the best sea kayaking in the region, while Lake Roosevelt National Recreation Area is popular with canoeists and kayakers. Further south, last year’s approved expansion of Oregon Caves National Monument in Oregon will protect the headwaters of River Styx/Cave Creek.

To learn more about what NPCA is doing to protect your national park waters, and to find out how you can help, visit npca.org.

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More Than 2,500 miles Of

Water Trails Fit For Paddlers

The National Water Trails System currently includes 18 national water trails in Alabama, Arizona, Georgia, Illinois, Iowa, Kansas, Louisiana, Michigan, Minnesota, Missouri, Nebraska, Nevada, New York, Oregon, South Carolina, South Dakota, Washington, and Wisconsin for a total of 2,674.2 miles of NWT.

Chattahoochee River National Recreation Area Water Trail Trail length: 48 miles Location: Georgia The water trail encompasses the existing Chattahoochee River National Recreation Area, a linear park in the Atlanta-metro area. It includes 48 miles of river, over 70 miles of hiking trails, and 18 developed access areas. The purpose of the Chattahoochee River Water Trail is to lead the preservation and protection of the 48- mile Chattahoochee River corridor from Buford Dam to Peachtree Creek and its associated natural and cultural resources for the benefit and enjoyment of the people.

Stand Up Paddlboarding on the Chattachoochee River / Jason Bilips via NPS Kayakers on the Alabama Scenic River Trail / NPS, Alabama Scenic River Trail

Okefenokee Wilderness Canoe Trail

Mississippi National River and Recreation Area Water Trail Trail length: 76 miles Location: Minnesota The Mississippi River Water Trail encourages river stewardship of one of North America’s most iconic rivers by increasing the use of the river and its shoreline. This 72-mile stretch of the Mississippi River, and 4 miles of the Minnesota River, is filled with nationally significant historic, cultural, economic, scenic, recreational, natural, and scientific resources.

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Alabama Scenic River Trail Trail length: 631 miles Location: Alabama The ASRT passes through the heart of Alabama from northeast to southwest, taking users through a wide variety of terrain, flora, and fauna and reconnecting citizens and visitors to Alabama’s rivers, as well as bringing sustainable rural development to communities along the rivers in Alabama.

Trail length: 120 miles Location: Georgia These wilderness canoe trails offer opportunities to view wildlife, wet prairies, cypress forests, and pine uplands. Canoeing, kayaking, and motor boating are permitted year- round on marked trails.

Okefenokee Wilderness Canoe Trails strive to protect and enhance wildlife and its habitat, ensure integrity of the ecological system, and embrace the grandeur, mystery, and cultural heritage of the area.

Okefenokee Wilderness Canoe Trail / NPS

Mississippi River Water Trail - Great River Water Trail Trail length: 121 miles Location: Missouri and Illinois The MRWT Great River Water Trail is deeply rooted in natural scenic beauty, Native American heritage, and cultural history. The MRWT Great River Water Trail extends through the heart of North America, from Saverton, Missouri downstream to St. Louis, Missouri and offers numerous recreational and educational opportunities, camping, and wildlife viewing.

Bronx River Blueway Trail length: 8 miles Location: New York The Bronx River Blueway passes directly through the New York Botanical gardens, the Bronx River Forest, cityscapes, and the Bronx Zoo and offers a variety of recreational and cultural opportunities. The Bronx River Blueway aims to introduce community and interested groups to the River and to the developing Bronx River Greenway through canoeing, kayaking, bicycling, program, and project opportunities in and along the river corridor.

Hudson River Greenway Water Trail / John Resch via NPS

Hudson River Greenway Water Trail

Willamette River Water Trail

Trail length: 256 miles Location: New York The Hudson River Greenway Water Trail is designed for day-users as well as long- distance paddlers. It includes 94 designated access sites, wildlife marshes, islands, historic sites, cities, downtowns, and hiking trails. The Hudson River Greenway Water Trail connects communities and people to the Hudson River, promotes recreational access for all users, provides infrastructure for multiday paddles, protects natural and cultural resources, and supports the health the river for future generations.

Trail length: 217 miles Location: Oregon The Willamette River Water Trail flows through rural and urban landscapes, providing scenic, cultural, educational, and recreational opportunities. Seventy percent of Oregon residents live in the Willamette River valley. The trail aims to connect communities and visitors to Oregon’s celebrated Willamette River as an accessible adventure in the heart of the Pacific Northwest.

Kansas River Trail Trail length: 173 miles Location: Kansas The Kansas River offers outstanding scenic, recreational, historic and cultural opportunities, appropriate for novice boaters and families. The River also provides areas for picnicking, wildlife viewing, fishing, and relaxing. The trail aims to help Kansas residents and visitors enjoy the Kansas River for fun, wellness, and recreation and to have communities and businesses along the river experience increased economic benefits improving the quality of life for all Kansas residents.

Willamette River Water Trail / NPS

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Rock River Water Trail Trail length: 330 miles Location: Illinois, Wisconsin The Rock River Water Trail is a water trail of the Upper Mississippi River Region.

The trail meanders down a gentle gradient through beautiful rural and wilderness landscapes and vibrant urban riverfronts to safely carry the water traveler 330 miles from the headwaters above the Horicon National Wildlife Refuge in south central Wisconsin to the Mississippi River at the Quad Cities of Illinois and Iowa. The Rock River Water Trail is of national significance for its great diversity and landscape, vista, recreation, cultural, and historic experience, and for its ease of accessibility.

Waccamaw River Blue Trail Trail Length: 100 miles Location: South Carolina The Waccamaw River Blue Trail extends the South Carolina portion of the Waccamaw River, meandering through protected bottomland hardwood swamps of the Waccamaw National Wildlife Refuge and passing through the historic, riverfront cities of Conway and Georgetown. The Waccamaw, a coastal black water river, is home to many rare species of plants and animals, some of which are found nowhere else on earth.

Island Loop Route Trail length: 10.2 miles Location: Michigan Experience a very unique paddle in southeast Michigan crossing four different water bodies, along the international border. The mission of the Island Loop Route is to provide a safe, unique and exciting recreational experience for residents and visitors of all abilities to enjoy as they navigate four distinct water bodies in St. Clair County.

Missouri National Recreational River Water Trail Trail length: 147 miles Location: Iowa, Nebraska, and South Dakota The Missouri National Recreational River Water Trail contains some of the last remaining natural stretches of America’s longest river. Come canoe, kayak, and camp along the trail as you experience the Missouri River as Lewis and Clark saw over two hundred years ago. The astonishing array of wildlife, scenic vistas

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Black Canyon Wilderness at Lake Mead National Recreation Area / NPS

and national significant history make a trip down this stretch of river a once in a lifetime experience.

Red Rock Water Trail Trail length: 36 miles Location: Iowa The Rock Water Trail is located on Lake Red Rock near Pella and Knoxville, Iowa.

The loop can be paddled in its entirety or broken up into shorter sections. Eagle nests, a sea cave, beautiful rocky cliffs and bluffs, and a wide variety of migratory waterfowl are just a few of the things you can experience while paddling around Lake Red Rock.

Black Canyon Water Trail Trail length: 30 miles Location: Nevada and Arizona The Black Canyon Water Trail is located along a rugged and remote portion of the Colorado River in Arizona and Nevada within Lake Mead National Recreation Area. This spectacular river setting provides unique paddling and rafting opportunities from flowing hot springs in some of the side canyons to the history associated with the Hoover Dam and the early inhabitants of the surrounding areas.

Kitsap Peninsula Water Trail Trail length: 371 miles Location: Washington The Kitsap Peninsula includes 371 miles of coastline on the Puget Sound

in Washington State and some of the most spectacular marine environments on the planet. The Kitsap Peninsula is a destination for paddlers from around the globe because of its unique marine environments, the natural scenic beauty of the mountains and sound, migrating marine mammal populations, and ports and towns steeped in tradition.

Bayou Têche Paddle Trail Trail length: 135 miles Location: Louisiana This paddling trail in Louisiana wanders through four parishes and 13 towns along a historically and culturally significant bayou. This trail promotes the natural beauty of south Louisiana and integrates the history of the people and the land while providing access for paddlers of all abilities.

Huron River Water Trail Trail length: 104 miles Location: Michigan More than 100 miles of the Huron River in Michigan offers an inland paddling journey that enables you to explore the river’s natural and historic resources and the communities. Offering access to flat-water paddling through picturesque scenery, the Huron River Water Trail has stimulated local economies, encouraged people to enjoy the outdoors and strengthened community pride, partnerships and collaboration.

Traveler’s Essential Paddling Guide To The Parks

Directory Looking for a great paddle? The National Park System covers 84 million acres. Within those acres are miles and miles and miles of water well worth dipping a paddle into.

Within the following pages you’ll discover an alphabetical directory of the national parks with recreational paddling opportunities for kayaking, canoeing, rafting, and even Stand Up Paddleboards. The list is by no means comprehensive — it will grow along with the park system — but is designed for parks where paddling is an integral part of the park.

So, for instance, Canyonlands National Park in Utah is included since the Green and Colorado rivers are popular with paddlers. Fort Sumter National Monument in South Carolina, which is surrounded by water, is not. Parks where rivers are “poached” by paddlers are also not listed.

Where individual parks provide hot links to paddling information and authorized outfitters, we’ve provided those links, as well. However, outfitters come and go, so check with the park before choosing a company.

Paddling Information Link NPS-Authorized Outfitters Link

Sea Kayakers at Pacific Rim National Park Reserve, Canada / Patrick Cone

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Chesapeake Bay, Maryland / Patrick Cone

Acadia National Park, Maine

shoreline with your family and small children, and pitch camp within the dunes.

From fjord-like Somes Sound to rougher seas in Frenchman Bay, this park has access to a wide variety of paddling. You can skim the calm waters of Western Bay, or head inland to one of the park’s ponds or lakes.

Big Bend National Park, Texas

Alagnak Wild River, Alaska The 69-mile-long Alagnak is not a good place for novices. Class III rapids, unique wilderness and prehistoric ruins of village life along the shores make this an epic adventure.

Amistad National Recreation Area, Texas Texas might not seem like paddling country, but if you look, you can find water. At Amistad NRA there’s a 60,000-acre reservoir perfect for laid-back paddling through coves and canyons.

The best time to launch here is the fall and early spring, when the water and air temperatures are comfortable.

Anacostia Park, District of Columbia Yes, you can have paddling pretty much out your back door even if you live in the District of Columbia. Anacostia Park offers access to the tidal Anacostia River, where sculling is all the rage. But it’s also great for kayaks and canoes.

Check the tide schedule so the currents can do some of the work for you.

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You can paddle around Acadia National Park / Rebecca Latson

Share the Rio Grande River with herons, green kingfishers, and red-eared slider turtles as you glide through shaded canyons. Hundreds of microclimates in the park create a surprising biodiversity of plants and animals found nowhere else on the planet.

Big Cypress National Preserve, Florida

Apostle Islands National Lakeshore, Wisconsin While ice caves might be the main attraction in winter at Apostle Islands, sea kayaking takes over in summer. Skilled kayakers have 21 islands and 12 miles of mainland coast along the southern shores of Lake Superior to explore.

You can paddle past historic lighthouses while keeping a sharp eye for the more than 240 bird species that make Apostle Islands their home during the year.

Assateague Island National Seashore, Maryland/Virginia Stretching along two states, Assateague Island National Seashore is known for its wild horses, but paddlers love it for the solitude it offers.

Explore the creeks, channels and the beautiful

Forty-five miles west of Miami, this preserve is a great bet for birding in the winter season.

The Turner River Paddling Trail provides for a day-long exploration that can lead you from freshwater to saltwater in a landscape that features both river otters and manatees.

Big South Fork National River and Recreation Area, Kentucky/Tennessee World-class paddling lies within the backwoods of Tennessee and Kentucky here in the rumpled landscape of Big South Fork National River and Recreation Area. Whether you choose the Big South Fork of the Cumberland River or one of its main tributaries, this park with Class IV rapids won’t disappoint the serious paddler, though it might be too much for the beginner.

Big Thicket National Preserve, Texas

Blue Ridge Parkway, Virginia/North Carolina

Cape Hatteras National Seashore, North Carolina

Canoeists have more than 20 miles of calm, free-flowing waters rimmed by bald cypress and tupelo trees to explore along Village Creek. The preserve also harbors lakes and bayous worth exploring. Local outfitters offer rentals and shuttle services.

There aren’t many paddling options along the Blue Ridge Parkway, but one is Julian Price Lake at Milepost 297. It’s a perfect spot for a family outing of fishing and paddling. There are 47 acres of aquatic fun—and no motorized boats!

Bighorn Canyon National Recreation Area, Montana/Wyoming

There’s a reason Cape Hatteras has a history as the “Graveyard of the Atlantic,” what with more than 1,000 ships that went down as the result of warfare, weather, and sand bars. Pamlico Sound gives some protection for sea kayakers, while those seeking a greater challenge can head into the Atlantic.

Bluestone National Scenic River, West Virginia

Anglers congregate below the Yellowtail Dam on the sleepy Bighorn River. Steep canyon walls, a 71-mile-long reservoir, and solitude are part of the Bighorn River experience.

Biscayne National Park, Florida Space to paddle isn’t hard to find at Biscayne, where more than 95 percent of the national park is covered by water. Snorkelers and scuba divers also flock here to explore shipwrecks, coral reefs, and colorful fisheries.

Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, Colorado The narrow, 2,000-foot-tall walls of the Black Canyon make it hard for the sunshine to reach the Gunnison River far down below. But if you dare to paddle through, know what you’re doing, for the Class V rapids make this a destination for experts. Run the river at your own risk or opt for a pleasant boat tour at the west end of the park on the Blue Mesa Reservoir.

Blackstone River Valley National Historical Park, Massachusetts/ Rhode Island Though this is a brand new unit of the park system, paddlers have been enjoying the nearly 50 miles of the Blackstone River for years. You can spend a day, or days, paddling the river from Worchester, Massachusetts, and Providence, Rhode Island. Eighteen dams along the waterway present some interesting portages.

Santa Elena Canyon in Big Bend National Park / Rebecca Latson

While the New and the Gauley rivers might be better known with paddlers, this scenic beauty that runs through a deep gorge in the Southern Appalachians shouldn’t be overlooked. Paddle here in the springtime when runoff fills the river.

Cape Krusenstern National Monument, Alaska Though one of the least-visited units of the National Park System, Cape Krusentern holds something for padders. Here you can test yourself in the Arctic Ocean north of the Arctic Circle, or along one of the monument’s protected lagoons.

Boston Harbor Islands National Recreation Area, Massachusetts History, tide pools, fishing, picnicking and paddling are all within a stone’s throw of downtown Boston. Beginning paddlers can check take lessons prior to exploring the 34 islands at this National Recreation Area.

Buffalo National River, Arkansas Winter and spring months are best to appreciate our country’s first national river. The 135 miles of free rolling river give plenty of opportunity for adventures, fun and, yes, peaceful solitude.

Low-angle sunlight makes the wetlands and ridges glow on the coast of Cape Krusenstern National Monument / NPS

Canaveral National Seashore, Florida Watch for nesting sea turtles while gliding around this barrier island. Challenge yourself by paddling in the Atlantic Ocean, or play it a bit safer by touring the Indian River or Mosquito Lagoon.

Canyonlands National Park, Utah Twisting mazes of colorful canyons and attract hikers at Canyonlands, but the waters of the Green and the Colorado draw both canoeists (the Green) and rafters and kayakers (the Colorado). Paddle for a single day on the Green, or opt for a multi-day trip with time made for hiking into side canyons.

Cape Cod National Seashore, Massachusetts You won’t find any rivers in the national seashore, but there’s the Atlantic Ocean for experienced sea kayakers and Cape Cod Bay with its calmer waters and marshes to explore for those still honing their skills. Check the park calendar for ranger-led canoe trips at Salt Pond.

Captain John Smith Chesapeake National Historic Trail, Virginia/Maryland/ Delaware/Pennsylvania/District of Columbia Explorers have been enjoying and mapping the bay for more than 400 years. With more than 2,000 miles of shoreline, the bay offers opportunities for canoeists, kayakers, sailers, and SUPs.

Buffalo National River / NPS

Cape Lookout National Seashore, North Carolina This national seashore is a perfect setting for an early morning paddle, or an adventure that can last a week or even longer. Relax on the relatively calm waters of Core and Back sounds, or circumnavigate the barrier islands with nights spent camped in the dunes with fresh fish over the fire.

Channel Islands National Park, California Travel from Los Angeles to the Catalina Islands by ferry or helicopter, and once there, explore the watery backcountry of the National Park System. Take a kayak adventure, and remember to bring your snorkeling gear or hiking shoes for a cross-training experience.

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Summer fun on the Chatthoochee River / NPS

Saratoga Passage. On shore explore military history at two state parks associated with this unit of the park system.

Erie Canalway National Heritage Corridor, New York Looking for a long-distance paddle? More than 500 miles of interconnected canals, rivers, and lakes await you in this canalway.

Everglades National Park, Florida The largest protected mangrove forest in the Western Hemisphere is here in the Everglades.

Winter months are the high season for paddling, due to the somewhat cooler, less buggy weather. You can go for a few hours, or stay out for a week, in the River of Grass with its many streams, sloughs, and bays.

Fire Island National Seashore, New York Chattahoochee River National Recreation Area, Georgia

Delaware & Leigh National Heritage Corridor, Pennsylvania

You’re not paddling through wilderness, but the 48 miles of the Chattahoochee make an after-work or early morning paddle possible.

It’s a great place to introduce family and friends to paddling.

Fall, with the colorful surroundings of the region’s hardwood forests, is a gorgeous season to float, though the river might be bony. Come in June for the Wyoming Valley RiverFest.

Enjoy the only official wilderness area in New York state while paddling about this national seashore. Experienced paddlers enjoy day trips in Great South Bay. Or, reserve some sites in the Otis Pike Fire Island High Dune Wilderness to fashion a multi-day adventure. Watch out for poison ivy along the shores.

Delaware Water Gap National Recreation Area, New Jersey/Pennsylvania

Gates of the Arctic National Park and Preserve, Alaska

Paddling the entire 184.5 miles of this American wonder of commerce are not encouraged these days, but there are several small stretches where you can enjoy an outing built around history, bird watching and nature.

A variety of paddling experiences can be found within this NRA that straddles the New Jersey-Pennsylvania border. Canoe, kayak, or raft for one day, or several, along 40 miles of the Middle Delaware Scenic and Recreational River that is embraced by the large Water Gap NRA.

Arrive by floatplane for the true wilderness adventure, with trips on lakes or down rivers through glacially carved canyons. The upper stretches of the John River can offer a Class IIIII float at high water; the lower reaches make an excellent family float.

Chickasaw National Recreation Area, Oklahoma

Dinosaur National Monument, Colorado/Utah

Gateway National Recreation Area, New York/New Jersey

If you don’t mind paddling waters with powerboats, then head for Lake of the Arbuckles, which covers more than 2,300 acres. If you want a calmer experience, head for Veterans Lake, a smaller reservoir created in the 1930s.

Dinosaur gained fame for its fossil trove, but river runners love it for the Green and Yampa. These two rivers offer multi-day trips. The Green River slices through sedimentary layers full of marine fossils, while the Yampa flows through a landscape of soaring sandstone cliffs before joining the Green.

There’s wonderful paddling right in the heart of the New Jersey-New York metropolitan area. The Jamaica Bay Unit has paddlers in mind, with seven launch ramps. At Great Kills in the Staten Island Unit, you’ll find a seasonal kayaking program. Paddling also is popular at Horseshoe Cove in the Sandy Hook Unit.

Chesapeake & Ohio Canal National Historical Park, District of Columbia/ Maryland/West Virginia

Cumberland Island National Seashore, Georgia Bugs can be a major distraction during the summer months, so if you head to this national seashore, consider the shoulder seasons. Chat with a ranger to find out how to plan an overnight paddling adventure with backcountry camps in the seashore’s official wilderness.

Curecanti National Recreation Area, Colorado Three reservoirs along the Gunnison River offer different experiences for paddlers. Though Morrow Point Reservoir presents the best backcountry adventure for canoeists and kayakers, you need to haul your gear down, and then back up, 232 steps.

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Dry Tortugas National Park, Florida Late winter—when nesting birds descend on this park—is an excellent time to paddle Dry Tortugas. But any time of year is captivating. Just remember to bring your snorkeling or diving gear.

Ebey’s Landing National Historical Reserve, Washington Bring your foul weather gear to this surprising historical park that offers wonderful kayaking in Penn Cove, with the possibility of heading into Puget Sound, Admiralty Bay, and Gateway National Recreation Area / NPS

Gauley River National Recreation Area, West Virginia Though the peak season is just six weeks long, the Gauley River is on every serious paddler’s mind. The 25 miles of river are run in one day, and you’ll lose count of the rapids that can reach Class VI in size.

Glacier National Park, Montana Glacier is a hiker’s paradise, and a day paddler’s joy. Canoeists and touring kayakers can choose from Lake McDonald, St. Mary Lake, Swiftcurrent Lake, or a handful of other lakes.

Whitewater runs are made down the Flathead River that marks the park’s western border.

Gulf Islands National Seashore, Florida/Mississippi

Kobuk Valley National Park, Alaska

You have islands in the Gulf of Mexico to explore, or stick closer to the mainland with a trip down the Blueway trail for canoes and kayaks at the Perdido Key Area. This 5.5-mile trail leads you past a 19th-century fort and through rich birding areas.

Kobuk Valley National Park is another unit where experience is mandatory for paddling excursions. Come prepared for solitude in Kobuk Valley since there are no services available. The 61-mile stretch of the meandering Kobuk River is best handled in a kayak or collapsible canoe due to shallows.

Horseshoe Bend National Military Park, Alabama Yes, military parks have streams open to paddlers. In fact, more than 15,000 paddlers a year glide along the Tallapoosa River through this national military park, where an 1814 battle between General Andrew Johnson’s 3,300 troops and 1,100 Red Stick Creek warriors was waged..

Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve, Alaska

Indiana Dunes National Lakeshore, Indiana

Start off from Bartlett Cove, or arrange a ferry up the 65-mile-long main bay, for a drop-off to start your adventure of a lifetime. With a properly packed kayak, and the requisite skills, you can disappear into the arms of Glacier Bay for weeks.

The waters and shoreline of this lakeshore comprise a key 15-mile segment of the Southern Lake Michigan Water Trail, a paddling route that traverses the 40+ miles between Chicago, Illinois, and Michigan City, Indiana

Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, Utah/Arizona No need to choose either water or red-rock scenery, for both exist in ample quantities in this NRA in southern Utah. Paddle among the red-rock cliffs and into Lake Powell; it’s a memory you won’t erase from your mind.

Great Egg Harbor National Scenic and Recreational River, New Jersey Yes, New Jersey has some good paddling outside of Delaware Water Gap. A good slice of it can be found in the Pinelands Reserve and seven counties in the southern end of the state. There you’ll find this 129-mile-long river.

Canoeing is best along the 22 miles between Penny Pot County Park and Atlantic County Park at Lake Lenape. Carnivorous plants, orchids and pygmy Pines line the shores.

Great Falls Park, Virginia Experienced kayakers and whitewater canoeists test themselves against the Class IIVI rapids below these historic falls where the Potomac River leaps, jumps, and launches itself through rapids.

Lake Clark National Park and Preserve, Alaska There are no roads here, so you’ll need a bush pilot to give you a lift.

Lake Clark is the main attraction of this Alaskan gem, but there are many other lakes and rivers to explore with your paddle.

Figure out where to paddle here by picking up one of the park’s “self-guided” adventure maps. You can explore mile after mile after mile of cove-sculpted shorelines of both Lake Mead and Lake Mohave, or seek out the Black Canyon Water Trail.

Gaze up along the cliff walls of this miledeep canyon and forget about the outside world for a while. There is no finer river experience in the Lower 48 than a twoweek run through the Grand Canyon on the Colorado River. This is where you really come to appreciate “river time.”

Bald eagles, bison and antelope line the shores, eagles, hawks and osprey overhead. Oh, and America’s Matterhorn ever-present on the horizon. Head out for several days in a canoe or touring kayak on Jackson Lake, or spend a scenic float trip down the Snake River.

Climbers of mountains are familiar with the North Cascades, but what about paddlers? Lake Chelan, part of the North Cascades National Park Complex, offers a limited number of backcountry, paddle-in campsites you can reserve. Check out Peter Wise’s feature on Ross Lake on page 14 for another North Cascade paddling escapade.

Lake Mead National Recreation Area, Nevada

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Grand Teton National Park, Wyoming

Lake Chelan, North Cascades National Park, Washington

Lake Meredith National Recreation Area, Texas Even with historically low water levels, the Canadian River that fills the NRA offers enough water for canoeists and kayakers in the windswept plains of the Texas Panhandle.

Launching into Lake Michigan at Indiana Dunes National Lakeshore can be tricky / NPS

Lake Roosevelt National Recreation Area, Washington

Isle Royale National Park, Michigan

Enjoy dozens of options along this 130-milelong lake created by the damming of the Columbia River in eastern Washington. Multiple-day paddling trips are common here, but study the regulations about the Leave No Trace camps.

You’ll need some paddling skill since Lake Superior’s waters can get turbulent, plus you must be self-sufficient to enjoy the true wilderness of Isle Royale National Park. The payoffs include laughing loons, moose and, possibly, howling wolves.

Katmai National Park and Preserve, Alaska There are, quite literally, hundreds of miles of water trail to explore in Katmai. Naknek Lake, encompassing more than 150,000 acres, provides access to Bay of Islands, Brooks Camp, Fure’s Cabin, Iliuk Arm, and the 86-mile Savonoski Loop, which takes about 10 days to paddle.

Kenai Fjords National Park and Preserve, Alaska Experience, and good rain gear, are important at Kenai Fjords, as wind and rain are common. If you’re up for a soggy challenge, learn how to land in the surf.

Lassen Volcanic National Park, California The “Peak” is the main point of visiting Lassen, but there are paddling opportunities in this wild area named after a volcano. Manzanita, Butte, and Juniper lakes all are open to canoeists and kayakers. Kayak rentals can be arranged at the camp store at Manzanita Lake.

Lewis & Clark National Historic Trail, Idaho/Illinois/Iowa/Missouri/Montana/Nebraska/North Dakota/Oregon/South Dakota/Washington This historic trail spans 10 states, and does have some paddling opportunities. Head to the Wild and Scenic Upper Missouri River in Montana, or you can tie into the Northwest Discovery Water Trail in Idaho and Oregon.

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Mammoth Cave National Park, Kentucky You have one huge cave, and two meandering rivers, to choose from at Mammath Cave.

Emerge from the underground wonders and paddle either the Green or Nolin rivers, for a day or a few days.

Mississippi National River and Recreation Area, Minnesota Hate roadway congestion? Grab your canoe or kayak and paddles and head onto this river, which flows through downtown Minneapolis.

Missouri National Recreational River, South Dakota/Nebraska Close your eyes as you drift, and listen to the currents and birds. Although the untamed West no longer exists, you can get a sense of it while paddling down this national recreational river.

Natchez Trace Parkway, Alabama/Mississippi/ Tennessee The Trace today is a roadway, but some 200 years ago it was a footpath, one that required a ferry crossing or two. Stop at Milepost 327.3 and you’ll see where George Colbert operated a ferry in the early 1800s. You’ll also find a spot to launch your canoe or kayak into the Tennessee River.

New Jersey Pinelands National Reserve, New Jersey Canoeists have long paddled the Mullica, Batsto, Wading and Oswego rivers in the country’s first national reserve. The Great Egg Harbor National Scenic and Recreational River also flows through here.

New River Gorge National River, West Virginia Rapids known as Double Z, Greyhound Bus Stopper. and Upper, Middle, and Lower Keeney have been attracting paddlers since before the designation of New River Gorge National River in 1978. And for good reason, as those who have paddled it know.

Niobrara National Scenic River, Nebraska As it flows across Nebraska, this river will float you pass both rolling hills and cliffs, with some waterfalls tossed in for good measure.

Born in Wyoming and continually fed by springs, you can float 76 miles of the Niobrara in the park system.

Noatak National Preserve, Alaska With nearly 300 miles of river to explore, you need to set aside a few weeks for this trip. The wild and scenic Noatak River has its headwaters near the Gates of the Arctic National Park and runs all the way to Kotzebue Sound. Have a bush pilot drop you off and pick you up anywhere along the way.

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2015 PADDLING GUIDE

Not be overlooked by canoeists is the Niobrara National Scenic River in Nebraska / NPS

North Cascades National Park Complex, Washington State

Potomac Heritage National Scenic Trail, District of Columbia, Maryland, Pennsylvania, Virginia

Long, slender lakes (Diablo and Ross) as well as flowing rivers (Skagit and Stehekin) are open to paddlers and rafters.

More than 400 miles of paddling along two water trails of the Youghiogheny River and Potomac River makes a perfect tie-in to the Captain John Smith Chesapeake National Historic Trail and the Chesapeake and Ohio Canal National Historical Park. Some areas feature whitewater, so plan carefully.

Obed National Wild and Scenic River, Tennessee Standing waves in the Obed River can climb to 10 feet. Sometimes overlooked by paddlers, expert whitewater paddlers are either well-familiar with this unit of the National Park System, or should be.

Ozark National Scenic Riverways, Missouri This waterway, built around two rivers, threads through the Ozarks. The 130 miles of river split between the Jacks Fork and Current rivers are an excellent choice for canoeists in search of a multi-day exploration. Summer months can be raucous, so you might aim for the fall shoulder season.

Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore, Michigan There are the challenging waters of Lake Superior to contend with, or you can head inland to the lakes within the 11,740-acre Beaver Basin Wilderness. Beaver Lake, at 762 acres, is the largest.

Point Reyes National National Seashore, California Kayakers can explore Drakes Estero and Limantour Estero from July 1 through February 28 after the harbor seal pupping season.

Year-round, Tomales Bay, a 15-mile stretch of water protected from the Pacific Ocean by the seashore’s main landmass, is perhaps the most popular paddling area here.

Redwood National and State Parks, California Adventure and challenges exist in abundance along the coastal waters studded with sea stacks, protected lagoons, and inland streams such as the Klamath River and Redwood Creek.

During the summer months, inquire about ranger-led paddles down the Smith River.

Rio Grande Wild and Scenic River, Texas The Rio Grande Wild and Scenic River meanders 196 miles along the U.S.-Mexican border, much of it through Big Bend. Float the whole thing, or take a 1-3-day trip on the river through Santa Elena Canyon.

Saint Croix National Scenic Riverway, Wisconsin/Minnesota Take a day paddle or an extended trip along the St. Croix and the Namekagon rivers. Check the park website for details on camping options and regulations.

Salt River Bay National Historic Park and Ecological Preserve, Virgin Islands Sea kayak in the warm Caribbean waters among majestic mangrove stands.

For information, contact the Virgin Islands Department of Tourism at 340-773-0495 or St. Croix Chamber of Commerce at 340-733-1435 for more information.

Platte River in Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore / NPS

Whiskeytown National Recreation Area, California Watch for the ranger-led kayak programs, particularly the moonlight paddle.

The cool waters of Whiskeytown Lake are a magnet for canoeists and kayakers come the hot summer months.

Wrangell-St.Elias National Park and Preserve, Alaska

Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore, Michigan

In the largest park in the system there are a handful of big rivers for your paddling adventure. The Nizina, Kennicott, Chitna, Nabesna and White rivers will test your wilderness and paddling skills. Here, as the park notes, you can “travel for days at a time without seeing another person, trail, sign or bridge.”

Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming/Montana/Idaho Lakes—Yellowstone, Shoshone, and Lewis— are the paddling attraction in Yellowstone, and they don’t disappoint. Yellowstone Lake is a wonderfully remote and wild backcountry paddling experience, while Shoshone offers your own private geyser basin to explore.

Yukon-Charley Rivers National Preserve, Alaska The Yukon and the Charley rivers give paddlers solitude for their 200 combined miles as they flow through the preserve. Perfect for rafters and experienced whitewater canoeists.

Don’t forget mosquito repellant.

Take your pick here, with either a warm, lazy Platte River paddle, or the cold, challenges of Lake Michigan. The Platte River bends and meanders through thick forest, while Lake Michigan paddlers enjoy views of 500-foot high bluffs.

Theodore Roosevelt National Park, North Dakota Time your trip carefully since low water could mean more walking than paddling.

Badlands stretch in all directions as you work your way down the Little Missouri River through Theodore Roosevelt National Park.

Timucuan Ecological and Historic Preserve, Florida With 6,000 years of human history, this waterway was established to protect the last unspoiled coastal wetlands on the Atlantic Coast. Timucuan has some great paddling opportunities in the St. John River. Extended paddles can take you into the Florida Sea Islands Paddling Trail.

Lewis Lake can be used for a day paddle in Yellowstone National Park, or to access the backcountry of Shoshone Lake / Kurt Repanshek

Upper Delaware Scenic and Recreational River, New York/Pennsylvania Class I-II rapids are the perfect challenge for canoeists and kayakers looking to expand their skill range. This stretch of the Delaware offers the longest, free-flowing river remaining in the Northeast.

Virgin Islands National Park, U.S. Virgin Islands Surrounded by warm, turquoise water, it’s not difficult to find a spot to launch a sea kayak in this national park. If you need a rental, stop at Cinnamon Bay where the concessionaire can set you up.

Voyageurs National Park, Minnesota With so much water, your biggest problem might be deciding where to paddle. There’s Rainy Lake, Kabetogama Lake, Namakan Lake, or Sand Point Lake, for example. Paddle the large Rainy Lake, or string together some backcountry lakes with a few portages.

Technicolor paddling at Voyageurs National Park / Bryan Hansel

NationalParksTraveler.com

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