Essential Park Guide, Summer 2018 by Kurt Repanshek

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Essential Park Guide / Summer 2018

Acadian Summer By Colleen Miniuk-Sperry Three days is a great start to an Acadia National Park stay, as our writer points out with her itinerary.

A Park’s Best Friend By Kurt Repanshek Once envisioned as providing national parks with a “margin of excellence,” friends groups more and more are being asked to support operational needs.

Happy Campers By Kristen Pope Land a site in one of the park campgrounds our writer points to and you’ll be a happy camper.

Taking Home On The Road By Patrick Cone Lodges can be pricey, or booked, and sleeping on the ground hard and maybe wet. So why not invest in an RV or camper for your park adventures?

So Many Parks, So Little Vacation Where in the National Park System should you head this summer? The choices are likely more than your vacation time allows.

Park Friends Protecting wildlife, discovering the unknown, bringing shelter to rescuers, revitalizing historic way stations, and taking a different approach to park visits are just some of the projects national park friends groups are focused on.

Return Home Safe By Kurt Repanshek It’s easy to relax during your national park vacations, but keep in mind that landscapes and wildlife can be dangerous. A little apprehension can be a good thing.

Literary Parks Our summer sampler suggests worthy titles for addition to your home library of national park titles.

EDITOR: Kurt Repanshek ART DIRECTOR: Courtney Cooper SPECIAL PROJECTS EDITOR: Patrick Cone SENIOR EDITOR: Scott Johnson CONTRIBUTORS: Colleen Miniuk-Sperry Kristen Pope PUBLISHED BY

Essential Park Guides are published by National Parks Traveler to showcase how best to enjoy and explore the National Park System. National Parks Traveler, P.O. Box 980452, Park City, Utah, 84098. ©2018 Essential Park Guide, Summer 2018. All rights reserved. The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in any form without written permission from the publisher.

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•••• from the publisher

Great Friends To Have

e all need friends. And for the National Park System, there are some great friends groups out there. From Acadia to Zion and everywhere in between, friends groups work year-round to bring a “margin of excellence” to their namesake parks. Well, at least that’s the way it used to be. These days, with inadequate Congressional funding, friends groups are finding themselves underwriting operational needs, from trail maintenance and visitor center rehabilitations to radio systems and facility maintenance and even resurrection. Just look around the park system. The Blue Ridge Parkway Foundation is raising millions of dollars to rehabilitate places like Flat Top Manor and the

ON THE COVER Friendship of Salem harkens to an earlier day of wind-powered adventure. Today you can find her moored at Salem Maritime National Historic Site in Massachusetts. NPS photo.

Essential Park Guide | Summer 2018

Bluffs restaurant. Yosemite Conservancy dollars have gone to help the National Park Service rehab the Mariposa Grove of Sequoias and will help with a much-needed update to the Bridalveil Fall area of Yosemite National Park and even trail maintenance at Tenaya Lake. These are not always the projects friends groups want to fund. They’d much rather focus on that margin of excellence for a park. And it’s a delicate line, as Congress could decide it doesn’t have to invest so much in the parks because friends groups will step up. Turn to page 10 to get a look at this issue and learn what friends groups are being asked to do and what their executive directors think of this turn of events. And then turn to page 5, where photojournalist Colleen

Miniuk-Sperry outlines a fun three-day visit to Acadia National Park. Sure, you should spend more time there, but it’s always good to start with a game plan and build around it. With summer quickly approaching, you can get details on camping in the park system from Kristen Pope with her story beginning on page 16, and learn from Patrick Cone whether an RV, or perhaps a pickup camper, is a great choice for exploring the parks. His story starts on page 20. And before you put the issue down, read about staying safe in the parks this summer beginning on page 36. National parks truly are incredible places for your vacation, but you can jeopardize your safety if you’re not aware of what to watch out for or get too carefree. See you in the parks! — Kurt Repanshek

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3DAYS in “The Place,” Acadia National Park

Written and Photographed by Colleen Miniuk-Sperry

istory has known “Acadia” by many names. Some believe the word derives from the Arcadia region in Greece and that, over time, the “r” in the reference dropped off. Others suggest the label came from the word “L’Acadie,” which potentially stems from the French version of a Wabanaki Indian word meaning “the place.” The first European settlers to Mount Desert Island may have also translated this term as “heaven on Earth.” The National Park Service website refers to Acadia as “The Crown Jewel of the Atlantic Coast.” By any name, Acadia’s glacially-carved mountains, serene lakes and ponds, pristine forests, sand and cobble beaches, jagged granite headlands, abundant wildlife, and historical remnants attract more than three million visitors a year, all who come to find their place in “the place.” Are you ready to find yours in “heaven on Earth”?

Bass Harbor Light long has been a favorite Acadia icon for photographers / Colleen Miniuk-Sperry NationalParksTraveler.org

The Porcupine Islands are anchored in Frenchman Bay to the east of Bar Harbor / Colleen Miniuk-Sperry

DAY

f you are visiting from out of state, fly into the Portland International Jetport or Bangor International Airport. The Portland airport requires a three-hour drive to Acadia, but offers more connections than Bangor (which is an attractive 90-minute drive to the park). Rental cars are available from both airports. Once in Maine, head down east to Mount Desert Island, which hosts the largest contiguous part of Acadia National Park. Swing by the Hulls Cove Visitor Center to pay your park entry fee and to pick up a park map, tide charts, and the Island Explorer park shuttle schedule. Then, check out Bar Harbor, a lively town serving as an ideal base for your visit. Ample lodging for all budgets exists, while nearby Northeast Harbor, Southwest Harbor, and Trenton (on the mainland) offer additional options. If you prefer to sleep under the stars, reserve 6

a campsite at one of the park’s two campgrounds—Seawall or Blackwoods. Reserve your spot early, though, as Acadia sees its highest number of visitors in July and August. Bar Harbor restaurants tempt even the most discriminating taste buds, so grab lunch here before venturing out. If the tide is low, head to the Bar Island Tidal Path on the north side of town and take the 0.6 mile stroll across the exposed sand bar to this spruce-covered isle. Otherwise, start your trip where the park began, at Sieur de Monts. In 1909, George B. Dorr purchased 10 acres of land and donated it to the Hancock County Trustees of Public Reservations. In 1916, President Woodrow Wilson proclaimed this tract, along with 6,000 additional acres across MDI, as the “Sieur de Monts National Monument.” (In 1919, the ever-expanding park became the “Lafayette National Park” and then, finally, in 1929, “Acadia National Park.”) Visit the Sieur de Monts freshwater

Essential Park Guide | Summer 2018

Among the dozens of botanical specimens that grow in the Wild Gardens of Acadia is sheep laurel / Colleen Miniuk-Sperry

spring and the monument to Dorr, which sits behind the Nature Center. Natural history lovers should also stop by the nearby Abbe Museum (admission fee required). Acquaint yourself with Acadia’s flora, especially such summer wildflowers as blue flag iris, pitcher plant, and aster, by sauntering through the Wild Gardens of Acadia. Then stretch your legs on the Jesup Path on the west side of the garden. Here you can see the differences in growth before and after the “Great Fire of 1947,” with the surviving hemlocks on the west side of the boardwalk contrasting with the newer birch maples, and other deciduous trees on the east side. Then travel to Eagle Lake for a short saunter along its northern shoreline to watch the sun set and to catch a glimpse of the mountains you’ll stand on top of tomorrow.

At times Bubble Rock almost seems to float in the fog at Acadia National Park. It can be found along the aptly named Bubble Rock Trail / Colleen MiniukSperry

DAY

ise and shine early! Drive to the top of Cadillac Mountain to watch the sun rise with a view from the highest point not only in Acadia (1,530 feet elevation), but also of any landform along the Atlantic seaboard north of Rio de Janiero in Brazil. But put on warm clothes and plan to arrive at least an hour prior to the sunrise to get a parking spot. Get your blood pumping on the North Ridge, South Ridge, or Cadillac-Dorr trails before descending the mountain to drive the one-way Park Loop Road. On the Ocean Drive stretch, dip your toes in the Atlantic Ocean at Sand Beach, listen to pounding waves at Thunder Hole, and marvel at Otter Cliff’s panoramic view. Thrill-seekers who do not fear heights should try their hand at the Precipice Trail (often closed until mid-August due to nesting peregrine falcons) or the Beehive Trail, two of Acadia’s classic ladder trails. Continue to Jordan Pond, where a delectable lunch awaits at the Jordan Pond House (Reservations recommended). If weather permits, request a seat on the lawn to enjoy the stunning view of Jordan Pond and The Bubbles, two prominent mountains looming across the pond, as you dine on traditional popovers. Walk off lunch on the easy-going 3.5mile Jordan Pond Shore Path or follow the carriage road along Jordan Stream to see the

Stop at the Jordan Pond House for popovers and you’ll likely find yourself out on the lawn staring across the pond to the two rounded “Bubbles” on the far shore / Colleen Miniuk-Sperry NationalParksTraveler.org

Left: Wild asters (top) and bunchberry dogwood are among the natural wonders that will draw your eyes from the park’s shorelands to its woodlands / Colleen Miniuk-Sperry Right: Look closely as you stroll the shoreline and away from the water, away from the granite, and you just might spy some of the blue flag iris / Colleen Miniuk-Sperry

Cobblestone Bridge, the oldest carriage road bridge of 17 built by John D. Rockefeller, Jr. (in 1917)—and the only one constructed with cobble. End the day with a 0.5-mile one-way hike on the Bubble Rock Trail. The 400foot climb pays off with not only aerial views of Jordan Pond and Eagle Lake, but also a close-up encounter with Bubble Rock, a 15,000-year old glacial erratic sitting precariously on the edge of the cliff.

DAY

rom 1913 to 1940, Rockefeller Jr. developed 45 miles of pedestrianand horse-friendly carriage roads on MDI. To taste this history, book a horse-drawn carriage tour with Carriages of Acadia (www.acadiahorses.com). Or rent a bike in Bar Harbor or put on your hiking shoes to explore on your own. For the biggest bang for your buck, ride or walk the 3.9-mile Hadlock Brook Loop clockwise, stopping to see the Brown Mountain Gatehouse before traveling over the Hadlock Brook, Hemlock, and Waterfall carriage road bridges. Refresh yourself afterward with lunch at Abel’s Lobster Pound, where you’ll be treated to fresh seafood and a breathtaking view of Somes Sound. At low tide, wander along the easy 0.7-mile Wonderland Trail to access arguably the best tidepools on the island. Otherwise, try the 1.3-mile moderately difficult loop on the Ship Harbor Trail for wildflowers and coastal scenes. Finish off your visit at the Bass Harbor Head Lighthouse. Follow the trail to the east of the parking area and down the steps to catch the best views. As the sun sets, reflect on your glorious visit to “heaven on Earth” and start planning for your return to “the place.” 8

Essential Park Guide | Summer 2018

Friends of Acadia has established an endowment fund to help the Park Service maintain the carriage roads that roll through the park’s interior / Rebecca Latson

Maintaining The National Park System

WITH THE HELP OF

FRIENDS By Kurt Repanshek

or eight years, families whose memories of the Blue Ridge Parkway were nurtured around summer evenings chasing fireflies on the rolling highland meadows below Bluffs Lodge have wondered when it might reopen. Perhaps a better question to ask of the charming, 24-room lodge at Milepost 241 is whether it ever will reopen or instead be razed, a victim of demolition by neglect. When Bluffs Lodge opened in 1949, its low-slung, gray weathered buildings were part of one of the first developed lodges 10

along the Parkway. It closed in 2010 after the concessionaire’s contract expired and they walked away. Stop there today and you’ll find that weeds haven’t infiltrated the flagstone patios, the lawns are nicely cropped, and the panoramic views range as they always have across the rolling North Caroline countryside within the Parkway. But inside the lodge there’s an infestation of dangerous mold, so dangerous that no one is allowed to enter. To reopen the lodge, just a short walk from the Wildcat Rocks Overlook, might take more than $3 million to remove the mold and literally rebuild the interior.

Essential Park Guide | Summer 2018

Across the country in Yosemite National Park, meanwhile, the Mariposa Grove of Sequoias is scheduled to reopen in June after a three-year, $40 million revitalization to restore the health of the grounds beneath towering trees. And, the first substantial makeover of visitor facilities and interpretive panels at Bridalveil Fall in 50 years is also expected to kick off this year, with a $13.6 million price tag. At Grand Teton National Park in Wyoming, this summer marks the culmination of a four-year, $18 million project to rehabilitate the trails on the mountains above Jenny Lake and the front country areas that greet

visitors to this, the park’s most popular area. Each of these cases points to the backlog of maintenance and upkeep throughout the National Park System. Though it is Congress’s responsibility to pay for this maintenance, it has chosen not to properly fund the National Park Service so it can conserve the parks for future generations while leaving them “unimpaired.” Indeed, many millions of dollars that helped pay for this work came from philanthropic sources corralled by park friends groups. That reliance has twisted the longheld view that these nonprofit organizations provide a “margin of excellence” for the parks they support. These days, more and more park superintendents are turning to friends groups for dollars, millions of dollars in some cases, to address operational needs, such as trail and campground work and historic building restoration. “It’s one thing to want to put the icing on the cake, it’s another thing when the cake is crumbling. Putting icing on that cake doesn’t make sense anymore,” said Carolyn Ward, chief executive officer of the Blue Ridge Parkway Foundation. The National Park System has an estimated maintenance backlog of $11.6 billion, and you’ll find many friends groups putting their donated dollars into bone and muscle needs, not simply frosting. v The Yosemite Conservancy raised $20 million of the $40 million needed to restore the Mariposa Grove of Sequoias, and this year committed $12.5 million to the park, including $6.6 million against the $13.5 million cost for the Bridalveil Fall project. v Zion Natl Park Forever Project helped obtain a $1 million grant last year to rebuild the park’s Middle Emerald Pools Trail. v Washington’s National Park Fund provided $32,000 in 2014 to make repairs to the Sahale Arm Trail in North Cascades National Park, and has helped restore historic structures and outfit backcountry rangers, among other things. v The Grand Teton National Park Foundation raised more than $14 million towards the $18 million rehabilitation of backcountry trails and front country visitor facilities at Jenny Lake. v Friends of the Smokies worked to help raise $2.5 million to replace the obsolete radio system rangers at Great Smoky Mountains National Park have had to rely on to stay in touch across the sprawling, mountainous park. v Friends of Acadia has endowed funds both to address trail maintenance and repairs to Acadia National Park’s carriage roads.

The National Park Service receives one-tenth of 1 percent of our federal budget, if not less. And our parks and our public lands are our nation’s history. They are our great cathedrals.

Back in 2014, pomp and circumstance helped announce the restoration of the Mariposa Grove of Sequoias at Yosemite National Park that the Yosemite Conservancy made possible / NPS

v The Conservancy for Cuyahoga Valley National Park has raised $5.8 million to rehabilitate the park’s Boston Mill Visitor Center and helped stabilize 7,000 feet of the Dickerson Creek bank. Many, many examples of such largesse can be found throughout the National Park System. Unfortunately, such gifts divide the park system’s more than 400 units into the haves and have-nots: Those with strong, well-established friends groups gain millions of additional dollars for projects and maintenance, while those without such support go with much less, if not entirely without. “Some would call that the margin of survival,” Glacier Superintendent Jeff Mow said when asked about the role of today’s park friends groups. “(Former Interior Secretary) Sally Jewel used that term,

talking about friends groups, what they can do for that margin of excellence. Some of our park units, they really don’t have much more capacity than to just keep a visitor center open or do a few walks. They’re really minimally staffed. “Quite honestly, depending on the budgets, some years they can barely make payroll, let alone pay for the lights and pay for other needs and publications and things like that,” he said. “You can go to places where I think the friends groups literally become part of that margin of survival for units.” Salem Maritime National Historic Site up the Massachusetts coast from Boston encompasses just 9 acres, yet its deferred maintenance list still runs to around $6 million. The bulk of that is tied to four wharf systems, though the park also has an NationalParksTraveler.org

The Bluffs Lodge along the Blue Ridge Parkway, which closed in 2010, has been infiltrated with a dangerous mold. It is expected to cost millions to restore / NPS, Leesa Brandon

1819 brick customhouse, another historic house that dates to 1675, and a replica 18th century full-rigged ship, the Friendship of Salem, to maintain. “All of these buildings are historic structures,” said Superintendent Paul DePrey. “I think you’re familiar with the additional expenses associated with a non-standard kind of a space.” The Friendship of Salem also is pretty atypical of what you’d find in the park system, outside of San Francisco Maritime National Historical Park, and Superintendent DePrey relies heavily on volunteers to both maintain the stately ship and sail it. Over the next five years park staff will work with the nonprofit Salem Partnership to determine what big ticket items need to be performed on the ship, as well as “some of the more easily supported operational needs,” said the superintendent. “That’s going to help inform us what our additional deferred maintenance is going to be for the Friendship. That will also change the (park’s overall deferred maintenance) number.” At National Park Service headquarters in Washington, D.C., spokesman Jeffrey Olson acknowledged many smaller parks are at a disadvantage, financially, in trying to address their needs because they might not collect entrance fees or have a vigorous friends group to aid them. He also acknowledged the increasingly vital role these organizations play. “Friends groups are important partners for parks that often raise funds for park projects, including enhanced educational opportunities and facility rehabilitation or construction,” he said. “These funds can often contribute to addressing deferred maintenance. For example, the Centennial Challenge program leverages private funding to match federal funds for projects that often will address trail restoration and other facility rehabilitation projects. “In FY 2017, the Centennial Challenge 12

program was appropriated $20 million and matched with $32.5 million in partner contributions. Of these projects, $32 million involved deferred maintenance,” said Mr. Olson. Back on the Blue Ridge Parkway, the Foundation has already raised nearly $830,000 to pay for the mold mitigation on the Bluffs Coffee Shop and Camp Store. The Park Service currently is casting about for entities that might be interested in putting them back in business. As for the adjacent lodge, its future seems up in the air. “Our commitment is to the rehabilitation and preservation of the lodge,” Parkway spokeswoman Leesa Brandon said. “We will obviously be focused first on the necessary cleanup of the mold, but then we will shift to the rehabilitation of the facility for future use.” Ms. Ward said estimates to remove the mold from the lodge and rehabilitate the buildings range upwards of $3.1 million. So far no remediation has been scheduled. “My hope is that it’s not too late. But again, it’s the example of why we’ve raised almost $2.1 million, and shooting for the target of $3 million, to fix the (Moses H.) Cone Manor house, because if we don’t, that same situation will happen to that historic structure,” she said. “And so how can you, as a partner group, think about what our mission is, how can we sit back and say, ‘Oh, we’re just supposed to do added value,’ when you watch the infrastructure falling apart?” At the Yosemite Conservancy, President and CEO Frank Dean agreed that friends groups are being asked to help fund projects they wouldn’t normally do in the past. “So far we haven’t had to make a choice where we’ve had to say, ‘Boy, we’d really like to fund this interpretive program for youth or something and instead we’re going to have to fix something over here,’” he said. “Maybe we’re just fortunate that we’re at a scale that we can do both.”

Essential Park Guide | Summer 2018

While these nonprofit organizations do their best to raise funds for park projects, they remind their congressional delegations that those dollars shouldn’t offset federal appropriations. After all, said David McDonald, CEO and president of Friends of Acadia, it does little good to support deferred maintenance projects if the park in the end doesn’t have the budget to maintain them. “Our message has always been to Congress that we do aspire to add a margin of excellence. We are not interested in letting Congress off the hook, or filling a hole that they’ve created,” he said. “The public-private partnership is a really strong model, that’s what we like to talk about, that’s what they like to talk about. But we need to make sure that it stays in balance, and that the fundamental responsibility, the fundamental asset, is carried by Congress.” At the Conservancy for Cuyahoga Valley National Park, Deb Yandala said her group’s donors ask about the risk of declining federal appropriations in the face of increasing philanthropic support. “I think it’s a creative tension that we all live with,” said Ms. Yandala, who not only is CEO of the Conservancy but also president of the Friends Alliance, the confederation of national park friends organizations. “I think, though, that it’s up to us as a friends group community, friends group leaders, to make sure that that doesn’t happen. I think it’s a risk. “I know with my congressional delegation, we talk about that. And when I go to D.C., or when I’m here with them locally, I make that very clear, that anything we do is not to get Congress off the hook, and that we’re unhappy with this trend of operating budget cuts and maintenance budget cuts,” she added. At the Blue Ridge Parkway, Ms. Ward sees the role of her organization as a rallying force for the Parkway. “The National Park Service receives onetenth of 1 percent of our federal budget, if not less. And our parks and our public lands are our nation’s history. They are our great cathedrals,” she said, adding that the public, through volunteerism, donations, and sheer commitment, needs to ensure they are not left to deteriorate and molder away. At day’s end, Ms. Ward is ever hopeful,”(T)hat we will save them from the potential deterioration when they could not be saved. That in the future, that they will receive the level of support from the federal government that they deserve.” Support for this reporting was provided by The Pew Charitable Trusts.

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The History Of

FORT JEFFERSON& Dry Tortugas National Park

W Fort Jefferson presented a mighty fortress protecting the Florida Straits and the U.S. interests in keeping those straits open / Yankee Freedom

Essential Park Guide | Summer 2018

hat do you think about when you hear the words “national park”? For most, it’s likely visions of park rangers sporting knee-length khaki shorts and wide-brimmed Smokey Bear style hats. Or maybe it’s the verdant, rugged majesty of Yellowstone National Park with its geothermal wonders and grizzly bears. One thing is for certain: the remote island chain that makes up the Dry Tortugas would never enter your mind, and that is a shame. Because as beautifully strange as the stalactites of Carlsbad Caverns are, and as awesome as the volcanic wonders found in Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park certainly are, Dry Tortugas National Park should definitely be in the conversation as one of the more unique places in

the entire National Park System. If you’re ready to take the plunge and see this natural wonder with your own eyes, your first step is getting to Key West. Once there, hop aboard the Yankee Freedom III, a high-performance, luxury catamaran that ferries visitors to and from the Dry Tortugas year-round. Two hours and 70 miles later, you will make landfall on the most isolated national park in the Continental United States. Spanish explorer Ponce de Leon in 1513 discovered this blue, virtually deserted oasis. He dubbed the cluster of seven contiguous islands, ‘Las Tortugas,’ which translates to ‘The Turtles,’ so named for the abundance of sea turtles that had migrated there. The addition of the word ‘Dry’ was intended as a warning to future seafaring expeditions that the island was deprived of fresh water. The Dry Tortugas also makes what sailors call a perfect recipe for a shipwreck: Low land, a large fringe reef, tides that vary with the seasons, and a strong current. Toss in a hurricane and you’ve got the makings for a high-speed collision. It was also the perfect spot for the U.S. government to build a stronghold; in this case, a naval fort that would secure shipping lanes for the unfettered importing and exporting of goods between the nation’s southern coast and the Mississippi River and to serve as a deterrent to piracy. Construction began in 1846, and continued for nearly 30 years, until 1875 when Fort Jefferson was deemed finished. This massive, enclosed hexagonal structure built from 16 million bricks became one of the most geographically desirable military structures in America’s arsenal, along with becoming the largest structure built from brick in the Western Hemisphere. In order to ensure the safe passage of friendly vessels, a lighthouse was constructed on Garden Key to illuminate the treacherous reefs and shoals responsible for sinking hundreds of ships since the fort’s inception. Named after the third president of the United States, Thomas Jefferson, the fort had as many as 2,000 military personnel and civilians who called it home. With blacksmiths, cooks, a doctor, and others with specialized skills, the fort functioned almost like a miniature city. There were, however, certain aspects of the fort that lacked what one might call hospitable environs, as there was a prison on the premises that incarcerated mainly deserters from the Union Army during the Civil War. The prison’s most famous inmate was Dr. Samuel Mudd, convicted for his role as co-conspirator in the assassination of President Abraham Lincoln. Though he was sentenced to life in prison, he was pardoned

Whether you swim, snorkel, or kayak at Dry Tortugas National Park, Fort Jefferson is always within sight / Yankee Freeom

by President Andrew Johnson four years into his sentence because of his invaluable assistance in stemming a serious outbreak of yellow fever that would have otherwise ravaged the fort’s population. When it came to sheer, brute firepower, Fort Jefferson had no equal. The design of the fort called for a three-tiered, six-sided, 420 heavy-gun fort, with two sides measuring 325 feet, and four sides measuring 477 feet. The walls meet at corner bastions, which are large projections designed to allow defensive fire along the faces of the walls they joined. The heavy guns were mounted inside the walls in a string of open casemates, or gunrooms, facing outward toward the sea through large openings called embrasures. Fort Jefferson was designed to be a massive gun platform, impervious to assault, and able to destroy any enemy ships foolhardy enough to come within range of its powerful guns. The intimidation factor of the fort was such that while it was still on active duty prior to its decommissioning, it was never fired upon by hostile forces. Near the close of the 19th century, the fort became obsolete and fell out of favor with top military brass. Not only had the conditions of the modern world outgrown the fort’s usefulness, but also its location, exposed to the elements smack dab in the middle of the Florida Straits, caused it to slowly fall into disrepair. Corrosive salt air and violent hurricanes that would wreak havoc in the area proved too costly, and the fort was eventually shuttered. Much later, President Franklin Delano Roosevelt designated it as a national monument in 1935, and in 1992 it

was redesignated as a national park. What’s lost in all this history, captivating as it is, is the fact that Fort Jefferson comprises exactly 1 percent of the area protected by the National Park Service. The other 99 percent lies beneath the crystal blue waters that surround it. The reefs here are vibrant and teeming with marine life. Because the reefs are so shallow, the sun can nurture the sea life below with unobstructed light. The many shipwrecks in the area help fortify and sustain the ecosystem by serving a second life as an artificial reef. Hundreds of species of marine animals can be encountered here, with opportunities to view sharks, various species of coral, lobsters, squid, octopus, tropical reef fish, goliath groupers, and of course, sea turtles. However, not all the wildlife here spends its life submerged under water. The Dry Tortugas is also a world-class bird-watching destination with more than 300 species of birds passing through and nesting on the islands. As far as national parks go, Dry Tortugas remains an enigma, giving the island a certain mystique. Because of the remote location and limited means to get there, it restricts visitation to lower levels than you would find in most other parks. However, those who have been fortunate enough to set foot there will tell you the trip was definitely worth it. You can hear it in the impassioned oohs and ahhs that weave through stories that tell of the spell they fell under while gazing at the endless turquoise ocean that stretches as far and deep as your imagination.

NationalParksTraveler.org

WHERE IN THE NATIONAL PARK SYSTEM SHOULD YOU

PITCH PARK OR

YOUR TENT

YOUR RV?

By Kristen Pope

huge grizzly sauntered out of the campground and crossed the road right in front of our car as we pulled into Yellowstone National Park’s Madison Campground. We found our campsite and, as we were setting up our tent, chatted with our campground neighbors who were a bit unsettled by seeing the bear wander right by their site a few minutes before. The next morning, we awoke to flashes of lightning and rumbles of thunder. As the storm grew closer, hail lashed against our tent and the ground shook with each boom of thunder. We contemplated whether we should stay in our tent or make a dash for the car, but soon the storm was over,

the smell of freshly fallen rain filled the air, and the sun came out. We shook the droplets of rain off the tent and laid it out in a sunny spot to dry while eating breakfast and packing up. Even though there were hundreds of other campers in the campground, we were still in a wild, wonderful place. National park campgrounds open up a world of adventure with a wide variety of “lodging” options, from a tranquil spot to a festive frenzy of activity. But, snagging a perfect site can be tricky since many prime campgrounds fill fast. Some sites can be reserved months in advance; others fill on a first-come, first-served basis. Some National Park Service campgrounds track the average

time that the campgrounds fill for the day, so be sure to ask or check the park’s website. Since popular campgrounds fill early, sometimes before 7 a.m., be sure to plan ahead and have a back-up plan if your favored campground is unavailable. Before camping, be sure to have all the equipment and knowledge you will need to do so safely. Not all campgrounds have water available, so be sure to have what you need. Inquire about local dangers, and always be aware of the weather, wildlife, and other potential hazards. It’s worth the effort. The following iconic and stunning campgrounds are just a taste of what the National Park System’s campgrounds have to offer.

Wonder Lake Campground

Denali National Park and Preserve, Alaska Camp beneath the towering white behemoth of Denali, North America’s tallest mountain. Although the 20,310-foot-tall mountain is 26 miles from the campground, it still looms large. Lucky campers are in prime position for a great view if the mountain is “out” (it is often obscured by clouds). The Wonder Lake Campground has just 28 tent-only sites, and is 85 miles into the national park. Campers take a shuttle bus to reach the campground. Watch pinks and purples dance over the mountain as alpenglow sets in each evening and, if you visit late enough in the season, keep your eyes peeled for the aurora borealis as it dances in the darkness. Moose, grizzlies, and even caribou are known to wander through the campground, and Wonder Lake sometimes hosts waterfowl and beaver. A mile-long trail leads from the campground to the McKinley River. Take appropriate precautions for grizzlies, and be prepared for mosquitoes with bug spray and a head net.

Jenny Lake Campground

Camp in Theodore Roosevelt National Park in North Dakota and you might find yourself sharing the campground with bison / Kurt Repanshek

Essential Park Guide | Summer 2018

Grand Teton National Park, Wyoming Nestled along Jenny Lake’s shores, the campground is a prime location for admiring the majestic Tetons. Glacial boulders and conifers complete the scenery at the park’s most popular campground. Only 49 sites are available for tent

The Jenny Lake Campground in Grand Teton National is one of the most picturesque in the National Park System / Grand Teton Lodge Company NationalParksTraveler.org

campers (plus 10 sites for hikers and bicyclists), and the campground fills early in the day, generally before 9 a.m. The Jenny Lake Store has snacks, ice, firewood, and other camping essentials. Grizzlies do frequent the area, so always take appropriate precautions when camping, hiking, and recreating in the area.

Belle Fourche River Campground

Devils Tower National Monument, Wyoming Devils Tower rises up out of the prairie flats in northeastern Wyoming’s slice of the Black Hills. Many sites at the Belle Fourche River Campground allow views of the Tower, which rises 867 feet from base to summit. The first-come, first-served campground has 50 sites and is dotted with shading cottonwood trees. Plenty of hiking is available nearby, and recreational climbing is popular, though many Native Americans consider Devils Tower sacred and find recreational climbing on it to be disrespectful. The National Park Service encourages climbers to avoid the Tower or hiking within the Tower Trail Loop during the month of June to “balance American Indian cultural and ceremonial values associated with the Tower” with climbing.

Jumbo Rocks Campground

Joshua Tree National Park, California Campsites at Jumbo Rocks are scattered throughout spectacular rock formations that give the campground its name. There are granite domes and Joshua trees by day, celestial views at night in this designated International Dark Sky Park. The campground has 124 reserved sites, and is most popular in spring and fall, when temperatures moderate.

The Hatteras Light might keep you awake if you pitch your tent at the Cape Point Campground in Cape Hatteras National Park / NPS

Cape Point Campground

Cape Hatteras National Seashore, North Carolina Located between rolling dunes and maritime forest, Cape Point Campground has 202 reserved sites. The campground is a short walk from the actual “Cape Hatteras.” The area is popular with surf casters, surfers, and birders. The 198-foot Cape Hatteras Lighthouse (the country’s tallest brick lighthouse) is located a bit to the north. Bring extra-long tent stakes for the sandy soil, pack sun protection since there is no shade, and bring netting and repellent for biting insects.

Rock walls and starry skies are among the attributes that draw crowds to Joshua Tree National Park / NPS

Essential Park Guide | Summer 2018

Arguably the best campground in the Southwest is the Needles Campground in Canyonlands National Park. With just 27 sites, and stunning red-rock landscape in all directions, it offers rare solitude and incredible scenery. But it also can be brutally hot in summer, so plan your trips for the spring or fall / Kurt Repanshek

Seawall Campground

Acadia National Park, Maine Located on the southern tip of Mount Desert Island, the Seawall Campground features 203 sites. Walk-in sites are 10-to-300 feet from the parking area, with many sites in the woods. The ocean is a 10-minute walk, and nearby Echo Lake is a popular place to enjoy fishing and canoeing.

Desert View Campground

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona Sunrise views are spectacular at Desert View Campground, just 25 miles east of Grand Canyon Village on the South Rim. The 50-site campground is quieter and less crowded than other campgrounds. However, it is still quite popular and its first-come, first-served sites fill early. Campers enjoy panoramic views even without reaching the top of the Desert View Watchtower.

Camping on the North Rim of Grand Canyon National Park comes with towering trees and spacious sites. On the South Rim the trees aren’t so tall, but at Desert View Campground you’re a short walk from the canyon and most of the park’s visitor services / Kurt Repanshek (right) and NPS (below)

There are hundreds more campgrounds around the National Park System for you to sample on your travels. Just know that many parks have been witnessing great increases in visitation, and you should reserve a site as early as possible. More and more parks also don’t want you bringing firewood with you, out of concern for accidentally introducing invasive bug species. So during your planning, check park websites carefully for what is, or is not, allowed.

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A HOME AWAY FROM HOME EXPLORING NATIONAL PARKS VIA RV OR CAMPER By Patrick Cone

fter decades of roaming the West, I took the plunge last summer: I bought a camper. There have been countless times when Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve arrived at my camp to be faced with putting up my tent in the pouring rain, howling wind, or extreme cold. More than a few times I ended up sleeping in the back of a car not nearly meant for that. Once in Arches National Park, around New Years, we had set up the tent, eaten dinner, read for an hour and it was still only 7 p.m. That meant we would be in our sleeping bags at least for the next 12 hours in the biting cold. You can only sleep so long, after all. As Boomers age (like me) our joints are creaking, and the prospect of cold, dark nights has us into the market for some sort of recreational vehicle. For me, I found a basic

Essential Park Guide | Summer 2018

pop-up truck camper (above, a Grandby, by Four Wheel Campers) hidden away in a Wyoming rancherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s barn. It was older than my kids, in great shape, light enough for my pickup to handle without too much effort, and cost less than a new set of tires. My teenage son and I spent a month cleaning, refurbishing and outfitting it, and then took off last November for the desert from our base in the Uinta Mountains of Utah. After a day hiking around Great Basin National Park in Nevada we set up camp on a side road in the valley as the sun went down. We pushed up the camper top, fired up the furnace, and cooked some pasta. We were, literally, cooking with gas. That night the wind whipped up (as it does in the desert) and the gale lasted all night, but we were warm and snug and dry. I reminisced about a stormy Arizona

Pickup campers arguably cater to the most adventurous of park travelers / Patrick Cone

night when our tent poles bent and then snapped, leaving us in a nylon cocoon for the rest of the night. But, no more. For us it was about extending our camping season into the dark, cold months and being able to take those rugged roads into the great vastness of public lands in the West. A trailer just couldn’t do that. For my lifestyle the camper was, as my dad would say, “The clear rig.” Aka, the perfect rig. And there’s the rub: there’s an RV for every age and lifestyle. What do you plan to do with it, where will you go, and how long will the trip last? Are you going on overnighters or six months in the Arizona desert, fleeing the northern storms, and what’s your budget? Are you a retired couple or young family or an adventure couple? Which national parks would you like to visit, and are there restrictions on sizes, amenities, or length of stay? For the minimalist there are the small truck campers like mine, or the megacampers with showers, toilets, and even ovens. But they can be very heavy, which means a heavier truck, lower mileage, and special suspension equipment. The advantage is obvious: they go where you go, but, conversely, if you want to explore with your truck, your camper goes with you. Trailers vary from small pop-up tent trailers, to the new teardrop mini-trailers

Visitors long have been towing their homes with them to explore national parks. The VW bug found a spot at Lassen Volcanic National Park, while the much, much earlier camper stopped at Dorr Point in 1922 just outside Acadia National Park / NPS archives

(such as the Airstream Basecamp and Winnebago Winne Drop), to large trailers with push-out living rooms that can be dozens of feet long. Small and mid-size Airstream trailers will gain you cool points with their efficient use of space, rounded aluminum body, and plenty of windows. One owner says of hers: “I adore my trailer. At 16 feet I don’t even know it’s there. It’s never squirrely.”

Many visitors looking to experience RV trips to the parks rent a rig, rather than purchase their own / NPS

Which brings us to another point with larger trailers and even motorhomes: They can be beasts on wheels if you’re not used to driving that much steel and aluminum around, and can be a handful in a high wind. One hybrid option is a 5th-wheel trailer, which distributes the weight onto the truck, too. The Class A motorhome is the goldstandard of RVs, if you can afford one. Built on a bus chassis, they often have slideouts, you can access the living area from the cockpit, and they are very luxurious. Campervans are a Class B motorhome, and the Sprinter van conversions are becoming very popular. But a Mercedes-Benz Sprinter can probably cost as much as some small mountain cabins. Class C RVs are the more traditional motorhomes, on truck chassis. All of these have various advantages and disadvantages and amenities. Bigger rigs are often equipped with generators, air conditioners, solar panels, roof racks and even backup cameras. Self-contained models will also let you enjoy the joys of using sewer hookups or emptying the holding tanks. One common issue with

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Airstream makes a variety of trailers, big and small, to help you feel comfortable on the road / Marianne Cone

most RVs is the effects of humidity, which can lead to mold, but can be addressed with dehumidifiers. But, once you’re on the road with whatever you’re using, you’ll need to do a

bit of research on your route, destination, and camping facilities. Some location’s road access, such as that leading to Cedar Breaks National Monument in southern Utah, are not designed for big vehicles, with narrow,

With a camper on your truck, you can explore parks for weeks on end and not worry about waking up confronted face-to-muzzle by curious wildlife / Patrick Cone

Essential Park Guide | Summer 2018

steep, and sometimes unpaved roads. These beasts weigh a lot, so go easy on the brakes too, by downshifting when you can. Once you decide where you’re taking your rig, make sure you’ll fit before you reserve a campsite. And, know the length of your rig, turning radius and its height. You don’t want to bend anything or hit an overhanging limb. Campsites, on average, are around 27-feet long, with some smaller and some larger. For example, Yosemite Valley has only a dozen 40-foot sites. So do some research on where, when, and how long. Narrow tunnels and low bridges can also ruin your whole day. Campgrounds in our national parks are located in some of the most stunning scenery in the world, but most don’t offer full hookups with water, sewer, Wi-Fi and power. Generators are also forbidden after certain hours, so be prepared to keep the television off, and enjoy the night skies. Dogs are great companions and can usually be left in a well-ventilated camper when it’s not too hot while you hit the trails. While this sounds like a lot of effort, planning and cost, the rewards of being self-contained and on the road are many. So just relax, plan a trip, take your time and head out.

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Rebirth Of A Yosemite National Park Icon:

The Mariposa Grove L

ate spring and early summer are times for renewal in Yosemite National Park, and in particular for the Mariposa Grove of Giant Sequoias near the parkâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s South Entrance. Closed since 2015 for much needed restoration work, the majestic grove of sky-scraping trees is set to reopen to the public on June 15 with fewer roads and more trails. Visitors will enjoy pinecones the size of bread

loaves and trees that climb 20 stories into the sky. These are just some of the many wonders of the Mariposa Grove of Giant Sequoias. The grove, along with Yosemite Valley, was included in the Yosemite Grant that was signed into law by President Lincoln on June 30, 1864. That marked the first time ever that the federal government set aside land for protection and is considered to be the genesis of the entire national park idea.

It took roughly $40 million and four years to restore the health of the Mariposa Grove of Sequoias in Yosemite National Park / NPS

An understanding of the Mariposa Grove and its towering trees can be had by spending some time with the exhibits in the grove / NPS

The Mariposa Grove contains about 500 mature giant sequoia trees that are among the oldest, rarest, and largest living organisms in the world. It’s one of the best Yosemite spots for a hike or simply to revel in the natural world. But decades of crowds and their associated impacts damaged this landscape. Under the restoration work (which wound up costing about $40 million, with $20 million provided by the Yosemite Conservancy), degraded habitat has been healed and natural processes preserved. This included the restoration of prime giant sequoia habitat and associated wetlands that had been impacted by the parking lot and roads in the Lower Grove area. The work also included restoring the alignment of the abandoned historic Washburn Wagon Road, and so creating a pedestrian path from South Entrance parking lot to the Mariposa Grove Road picnic area. Where the Washburn Wagon Road ends, in the vicinity of the existing picnic area, a trail has been constructed for the remaining distance to the lower portion of the grove, including a pedestrian bridge across Rattlesnake Creek. Venture into this part of Yosemite and you’ll find not only restored wetland habitat, but a consolidated parking area near the South Entrance and an associated shuttle system to get you to the grove. Accessible trails have been added as well in a way that protects the trees’ root systems and other sensitive habitats. Once in the grove, marvel at the Grizzly Giant, the Galen Clark Tree (named after Yosemite’s first “guardian”), the Clothespin Tree, or the Telescope Tree. But all you really need to do to appreciate this grove is stand among the quiet giants and marvel at them. The sequoia is real, but unreal at the same time. Who would have believed Augustus T. Dowd in 1852 when he described finding such giant timber in the foothills of the Sierra Nevada? When Galen Clark discovered the Mariposa Grove in 1857, he would end up spending the rest of his life among them, protecting them, teaching visitors about them, and learning about them. Two of the grove’s trees are among the 30 largest in the world; the tallest being about

Walking amid the sequoia grove really imparts just how imposing and magnificent the trees are / NPS

290 feet tall and 40 feet in diameter. And, though not the oldest trees in the world, the Sequoiadendron giganteum may have a lifespan exceeding 3,000 years. By total volume the giant sequoias are the largest living things on Earth. With their round, overlapping scaled foliage, distinctive cones, and spongy fire-resistant bark, they are symbols of bygone era.

Once in the Lower Grove, you’ll encounter the Fallen Monarch, a massive, dead Sequoia that fell who knows when. In 1899 a photograph showed Army soldiers on horseback lined along its top. Beyond, the Grizzly Giant is the patriarch of Yosemite trees, probably around 1,800 years old, and measuring 90 feet in circumference. Up the trail in the Upper Grove you’ll find other groups of trees, with names like the Four Guardsman, Governor’s Group, and the Wawona tree, also called the California Tunnel Tree. It was the only sequoia with a manmade tunnel bored through it in 1895. Stagecoaches used to pass through, to the amazement of early tourists. If you’re quiet, you may spot a black-tailed deer, or even a bobcat. Ravens and eagles swoop quietly through the forest. Head up to Wawona Point for a view, then hike back down the trail for a hearty dinner at the Wawona lodge. Afterwards, nothing could be better than getting back to your cozy cabin, condo, or home, reserved ahead of time from Yosemite’s Scenic Wonders Vacation Rentals. With more than 100 rental properties at Yosemite West, Wawona, and Oakhurst, they’ll have the perfect place for you or a passel of your friends. It’s a great time of year to enjoy these primeval forests. NationalParksTraveler.org

Where In The National Park System Are You Headed This Summer?

Spring’s rains portend summer weather. Long, comfortable days in the sun are upon us. But what are your plans; where in the National Park System will you go? Will you go in search of paleontological relics or active volcanoes; long trails or quiet lakes? Or, will you just sit on the beach and fly a kite? The park system can handle every dream, and more, as we point out.

Left: Lassen Volcanic National Park has examples of all four types of volcanoes found in the world. The Cinder Cone Trail takes you past colorful cinders from eruptions long ago / Patrick Cone

Below: New River Gorge National River in West Virginia offers cool waters, bucking rapids, and lazy days of fishing / NPS

Explosive Parks

Mount Rainier National Park is the obvious choice in this category, it being a dormant volcano. If you’re looking for more action, Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park is the place, with its gurgling, puckering and, this year in particular, puttering lava displays. There’s always Lassen Volcanic National Park in northern California. Lassen has a perfect peak to summit, trails through the Devastated Area, thermal pools, and nice campgrounds. Nearby Crater Lake National Park is another sound choice with its volcanic crater within a volcanic crater, wonderful hiking options, and mesmerizing blue water. You can even follow the Volcanic Legacy Scenic Byway that links the two. Sunset Crater Volcanic National Monument in Arizona is another area with the greatest earth

on show. Volcanic craters and cones are dotted with Ponderosa pines, and there’s a lava flow hike into, and human history attached to, this volcanic landscape.

Run, River, Run

Since you’re bound to get wet, summer is just great for boating and running rivers. Streams are generally full, weather and water tend to be warm, and the long days offer time to paddle, hike, and relax in camp. Mention paddle trips and the epic Colorado River through Grand Canyon National Park tends to come up, as do Buffalo National River and Ozark National Scenic Riverways. But consider something different, such as the Obed Wild and Scenic River that courses along the Tennessee-Kentucky border. You can experience what the Cumberland Plateau looked like before even Daniel Boone headed west. Kayakers who trek to West Virginia can test themselves against two of the best paddling rivers in the East: the New and the Gauley. While paddling in New River Gorge National River runs throughout the summer, the prime Gauley season is just a handful of weekends in September when the U.S. Corps of Army Engineers releases water from the Summersville Dam. The Gauley season begins the first weekend after Labor Day, and continues for six weekends (five 4-day weekends, and one 2-day weekend). Don’t miss this year’s Gauley Fest, scheduled for September 13-16. For adventure seekers, head north to Alaska, to the Gates of the Arctic National Park and Preserve. There you can choose from six Wild and Scenic Rivers: Alatna, John, Kobuk, Noatak, North Fork of the Koyukuk, and the Tinayguk. If you like trees with your water, float the Kobuk River, which the Park Service says “passes through one of the largest continuous forested areas in the Park and Preserve.”

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A history of sailing is explained, and showcased, at San Francisco Maritime National Historical Park / NPS

Some History With That Vacation?

If you want some history with your landscape, then head to places such as Gettysburg, Morristown, San Antonio Missions, and Golden Spike. There are many historic sites to choose from. Gettysburg National Military Park’s landscape is walkable as you try to envision the epic battles that took place here July 1-3, 1863. You can walk the Cemetery Ridge, Devils Den, and Pickett’s Charge trails, or visit the Soldiers’ National Cemetery where President Lincoln delivered his memorable address. The National Mall and Memorial Parks in Washington, D.C, are full of history, both American and natural. There are memorials for Presidents Jefferson, Lincoln, and Franklin Delano Roosevelt, as well those honoring Korean, World War II, and Vietnam veterans. Stand quietly in Ford’s Theater and try to imagine the shot that rang out as President Lincoln was assassinated. If you find yourself on the West Coast, then stop at San Francisco Maritime National Historical Park. There, you’ll find a nice collection of 19th century sailing ships (both wind and steam powered) and even a 1914 paddlewheel tug.

Essential Park Guide | Summer 2018

You’ll also find the Maritime Museum, where WPA-era murals grace some interior walls, above revolving exhibits of maritime history.

Fossilized Parks

You never know where fossilized remains of some fish, animal, bird, or flower might rise to the surface of the earth. In 2010, 7-year-old Kylie Ferguson spotted a fossilized saber-tooth cat’s skull at Badlands National Park in South Dakota while participating in a Junior Ranger program. Perhaps you’ll be that lucky too, but if you don’t want to take a chance on seeing a fossil, there are a number of great parks to visit. Fossil Butte National Monument in southwestern Wyoming has an amazing display of fossils that date back to when this part of the country was wet and tropical. Gar, herring, and even sunfish (ancient relatives of many of today’s freshwater species) swam in three lakes (Goshute, Uinta, and Fossil) that shimmered here 55 million years ago. While the lakes are gone, the sediments they left behind have long since been compressed into stone, locking many of those aquatic species in place. Visit the monument’s visitor center and

One of the best beaches for shell collectors is Shackleford Banks at Cape Lookout National Seashore in North Carolina / NPS

Inhabitants of ancient lakes are now locked in stone at Fossil Butte National Monument in Wyoming / NPS

not only can you tour a room full of incredible specimens, but you also can watch a preparer clean away the matrix surrounding a fossil. Dinosaur National Monument, not terribly far south of Fossil Butte, has arguably the best displays and collection of fossilized dinosaur remains in its Quarry Exhibit Hall. Here you can see more than 1,500 fossils embedded in a rock wall, which is protected by the building. Among the remains are those of Allosaurus, Apatosaurus, Camarasaurus, Diplodocus, and Stegosaurus. But fossils at the monument aren’t only found in the exhibit hall; they turn up regularly across the park’s landscape. After you tour the hall, head to the Fossil Discovery Trail and enjoy the dinosaur fossils embedded in the landscape.

Great Seashores For Seashells

Visit a national seashore and you’ll assuredly encounter seashells. Just be sure to check with the specific seashore for any regulations they have for shell collectors. For instance, at Cape Lookout National Seashore you may collect “up to two gallons of uninhabited shells per

person, per day for non-commercial use.” Now, if you’re a collector, here are some great beaches to check out: Big Shell Beach at Padre Island National Seashore in Texas. The most likely shells you’ll encounter are common arcs, coquina, cockles, and quahogs. Knobbed Whelks, Bay Scallops, Scotch Bonnets, and other types of shells can be found along the uninhabited outer barrier beaches at Cape Lookout National Seashore on North Carolina’s Outer Banks. At Cape Hatteras National Seashore next door, they say December is the key month to look for shells if you want to add conches to your collection. Search the beaches of Cumberland Island National Seashore for shells and you might also come upon some fossilized sharks teeth. To improve your odds of having a nice selection of shells to choose from, visit beaches after storms; heavy waves can kick up quite a lot of shells.

Click to watch a video of Conch Shell Hunting on the Outer Banks.

Go Fly A Kite

Sometimes you just need to kick back and fly a kite, and there are many places in the National Park System to just relax. At Indiana Dunes National Lakeshore, the 15 miles of shoreline along Lake Michigan provide a perfect breeze for those kites. Not surprisingly, Wright Brothers National Memorial in North Carolina is also a decent place to fly a kite; Wilbur and Orville knew the winds here were good for lift. Plan to visit the park in mid-July and you can take part in the 40th Annual Wright Kite Festival, where some huge kites (up to 100 feet long!) are expected to take to the skies. There also will be kite-flying lessons, and even kite-making classes. Padre Island National Seashore in Texas has plenty of summer winds for you to fly your kite. However, the seashore typically hosts a kite festival in February, filling the sky with all sorts of colorful kites, including some intricate and creative Chinese kites.

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FRIENDS OF THE PARKS Wild Treasures Supports Wildlife and Natural Resource Conservation in Grand Teton Grand Teton National Park anchors the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem, where native flora and fauna interact much as they have for thousands of years in one of the largest intact temperate ecological systems on Earth. Grand Teton is a place where stunning landscapes, fabled wildlife, mindful stewardship, and the latest science come together to create an immersive visitor experience that forges connections with far-reaching resonance. Park visitors and supporters become curators, keepers, and custodians of a cherished legacy. Yet a variety of pressures in and around the park mean that the once self-sustaining, self-regulating landscape needs vigilance, active participation, and assistance from those who value all that it represents. Changing visitation, land use and development patterns, climate change, and invasive plants and animals all threaten to disrupt the sensitive ecological relationships that characterize Grand Teton today. These pressures hold potential for diminishing the park’s biological, scientific, and visitor experience appeal. In response, the park and Grand Teton National Park Foundation have come together with a plan to support active, scientifically based, stewardship of wildlife and their habitats. Wild Treasures will support the park’s highest priority research, conservation, and education program needs. By investing in sustained action, this campaign will foster ambitious work of lasting impact, helping to ensure the vibrancy and relevance of Grand Teton’s wildlife as a central feature of the park experience for generations to come. Protecting moments that matter—a first bear sighting, a chorus of wolves howling in the wind, or the spectacle of a hundred elk migrating along an ancient path in the 30

Grand Teton National Park wildlife need our help to flourish. Grand Teton National Park Foundation is working with the Park Service to see that’s possible / Ryan Sheets

morning mist—requires a solid, multifaceted program to conserve and protect park wildlife in the midst of contemporary pressures and challenges. Wild Treasures will allow the park to be more strategic than ever before in prioritizing wildlife and natural resource research, conservation, and education efforts. Longer-term certainty of funds has already enabled the development of new partnerships with universities and agencies that will increase capacity, provide additional expertise, and leverage support from Wild Treasures. To learn more and support this campaign, visit www.gtnpf.org/WildTreasures or call 307-732-0629.

Essential Park Guide | Summer 2018

CAMPAIGN PRIORITIES Research • Grizzly bear-human interactions • Wolf ecology and recovery status • Animal migration • Climate change impacts • Native fish ecology Conservation • Native fish habitat restoration • Sagebrush/grassland restoration • Bear-resistant food storage boxes Education • Wildlife Brigade and String Lakers volunteer programs

Field work by Friends of Saguaro helped locate several springs in Saguaro National Park’s Rincon Mountains / Friends of Saguaro

Friends of Saguaro Supports Natural and Cultural Resource Surveys at the Park In 2017, the Friends of Saguaro National Park Board of Directors approved funding for the first-ever inventory of important natural and cultural resources in the high-elevation (7,000’-8,700’) wilderness area of the Rincon Mountains. The survey crew of park technicians and NextGen Rangers were stationed at Manning Camp and completed this vital survey of 1,500 acres, focusing on five resources; water, invasive plants, forest health, cultural and wilderness. Water—The survey led to the discovery of several high elevation springs (notably Scarlet Spring) that had not been mapped. With several once-reliable springs (Spud Rock, Deer Head, Mint and Jelks) now frequently dry, there is a recognized need for better information on the locations and water dynamics of springs. Invasive Plants—Park staff is aware of patches of highly invasive plants at high elevations, such as cheat grass and horehound, but they have never been systematically surveyed. The survey identified, mapped, and documented the invasive plants that will aid the park in deciding how to manage the invasive plants before they become too expensive to control. Forest Health—The survey mapped and confirmed infestations of bark beetles and dwarf mistletoe for the first time. Overall, the results suggest that the forest health in the northern portion of the Rin-

Caption

By surveying forests, teams funded by the friends group were able to map forest health and pinpoint where bark beetles were becoming a problem / Friends of Saguaro

con Mountains is generally good. Additionally, seven species of plants never before found in the Rincon Mountains were discovered along with six species of plants that had not been documented in more than 100 years. Cultural—Archaeological sites in the desert below 4,500 feet in elevation are well studied, however, no survey has been done at higher elevations. This survey discovered numerous prehistoric rock shelters and a large cave of significant archaeological value. Wilderness—This survey helped provide vital data on the 77 percent of Saguaro National Park that is congressionally designated wilderness (Wilderness Act of 1964) and will complement the 2017 park-wide Wilderness Character monitoring effort by gathering field data on night skies and soundscapes that were not gathered during the baseline surveys in 2012. The results of the high elevation Natural and Cultural Resource Surveys were truly amazing! Further surveys, research and an increased focus on the newly discovered archaeological sites, by trained archaeologists is required. Please support the Friends ongoing Natural and Cultural Resource Surveys at Saguaro National Park by visiting www.friendsofsaguaro.org. NationalParksTraveler.org

Bringing Bluffs Back to Life

Support from Washington’s National Park Fund enabled renovation of an historic cabin that for years to come will be available for search-and-rescue crews to come in from the cold and wet / WNPF

A Cabin Haven for Search and Rescue By Judy Wagonfeld What do search-and-rescue crews do when they need a meal or shut-eye? Thanks to funding from Washington’s National Park Fund, a newly refurbished cabin is on the way. “We’re always searching for places for SAR people to stay,” says Brett Hergert, the park’s operations. When Hergert notifies a sheriff about a park incident, he scrambles to find vacant park housing units. Currently, responders camp in tents, under tarps, in their trucks or campers, or drive home and back. It’s stressful but they are enterprising and realize friends and relatives anxiously await news of their loved ones. This fall those volunteers should be able to settle into a restored building christened the “SAR Cabin.” Constructed in 1936 by the Civilian Conservation Corps, the historic building housed staff until the mid-1990s, when disrepair made it uninhabitable. Basically, it seemed a teardown. But park management resisted, dreaming of restoring this cabin to its “rustic park” style. Competing in the 2016 National Trust for Historic Preservation and American Express #VoteYourPark campaign, Washington’s National Park Fund won $180,000 out of the renowned “Partners in Preservation” annual $2 million grant. The award formed a down payment for the cabin effort. REI’s Mount Rainier climbs raised another $25,000, while members of Washington’s National Park Fund’s board and community took the project up and over the top to $223,000. “The SAR Cabin will fill a need we haven’t been able to address,” Hergert says. “What’s also great about having the cabin is that SAR organizations can host trainings and can spend time there, in the park, in case something happens.” For Jared Infanger, Mount Rainier’s historical architect, restoring an historical building mediates past and present. Infanger enters each project with park historian Brooke Childrey’s help. He analyzed original photos and building materials in order to replicate the 1936 design by the NPS Branch of Plans and Design. “We couldn’t afford outside contractors,” says Infanger. “Mount Rainier’s three staff carpenters have been working on it—while also dealing with other park needs.” Over a period of months they replaced the cabin’s foundation, updated electrical wiring, brought in new appliances, added insulation, and applied fresh paint. “We couldn’t make this cabin happen without WNPF,” said Hergert. WNPF is thrilled to fund a haven for those who have given so much. The official opening of the Search and Rescue cabin is yet to be determined, but we look forward to the official ribbon cutting this fall. 32

Essential Park Guide | Summer 2018

In 2010, the much-loved Bluffs Restaurant at Doughton Park on the Blue Ridge Parkway closed its doors. Searches for a suitable concessionaire to take over operation of the business never panned out and the building went dark. Opened in 1949, the restaurant had been the first place on the scenic route to serve meals, including some of the best fried chicken, country ham, and homemade biscuits around. In addition to a gathering spot for travelers and locals alike, the restaurant and nearby Bluffs Lodge were economic engines for neighboring communities in the northwest corner of North Carolina. For years, revitalization of the restaurant was one of the top requests posed to the Blue Ridge Parkway Foundation and National Park Service. Thanks to that groundswell of dedication for its renewal there are signs of life returning to the 73-seat café that still features the black and white checkerboard floors and retro stools at the counter. The first step was the reopening of the adjacent camp store that is now a visitor information center and gift shop operated by Eastern National at the site near Sparta, North Carolina. The Blue Ridge Parkway Foundation’s Community of Stewards is pushing the project forward along with support from the North Carolina General Assembly and Appalachian Regional Commission. In 2017, the state appropriated $350,000 toward building repairs. ARC recently provided a $300,000 grant to purchase updated restaurant equipment and furniture. In the past, the significant cost of new equipment and repairs deterred potential concession applications. There is even more good news: several prospective operators recently toured the facility to learn about the logistics of setting up shop. With a nearby campground and miles of hiking trails, the restaurant is poised to reclaim its role as a hub for the broader 6,300-acre Doughton Park Recreation Area. Thanks to individual donors, neighbor towns and counties, and many supporting organizations, Bluffs is on the road to recovery. To learn more, visit www.brpfoundation. org/doughtonpark.

Long idled due to lack of a concessionaire, and then mold, the Bluffs Restaurant is being brought back to life, and use, thanks to the Blue Ridge Parkway Foundation / BRPF and NPS

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The barren summit of Pemetic Mountain in Acadia National Parks offers spectacular views in all directions / Friends of Acadia

Discover An Acadia ‘Deeper In’ Acadia National Park visitors often arrive with a checklist of “must-see” places, such as Cadillac Mountain and Thunder Hole. But it is often when experiencing the park “deeper in” that the true magic of the place reveals itself. Certainly, places immortalized in picture postcards are among the most scenic spots in any of the nation’s national parks. But there are equally spectacular places among the park’s rugged granite coastline, deep forests, and barren mountaintops to find true adventure. Friends of Acadia, a non-profit group dedicated to protecting the resources of the park and quality of life in surround communities, has been working closely with park officials to ensure a quality visitor experience by helping educate people in ways to develop their own personal connection with the park. Even in summer, when visitation peaks and it can seem like the park loop road is bumper to bumper during the middle of the day, savvy visitors can find a way to ditch the madding crowd and find the quietude and serenity that is the hallmark of Acadia. One approach is to visit the more popular places in the early morning or evening. That 34

Acadia National Park visitors looking for a quieter experience can enjoy cobble beaches such as those at Hunter’s Beach and Little Hunter’s Beach / Friends of Acadia

makes the most sense too for photographers looking to capture special scenes with the spectacular light of dawn or evening’s alpenglow. Likewise, trails up some of the less visited peaks, including Penobscot, Sargent and Pemetic mountains, offer a more wilderness-oriented experience, while not lacking in the desired alpine-like open terrain or 360-degree views of Cadillac. Sand Beach with its unique geology and lifeguards may get all the attention, but numerous side trails throughout the park lead down to remote “cobble” beaches where

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your only companion is likely to be the cool ocean air and the sound of waves breaking on the shore. Especially for those who like to hike or bike without backtracking, using the Island Explorer shuttle bus system makes perfect sense. A portion of every entrance fee paid supports the free buses. Hikers can begin at one trailhead and hike miles along a ridge and catch a bus back to the start or to their overnight accommodation once they reach the far end. On your next visit, go deeper in at Acadia. Friends of Acadia can help you get there.

Polly Dyer: Honoring a Northwest Conservation Hero on North Cascades National Park’s 50th Anniversary By Christian Martin In the North Cascades, a mosaic of public lands—national, state, and provincial parks, national forests, wilderness, and recreation areas—protects many of the region’s most beloved areas. It’s easy to take their stewardship for granted—few today would argue against preserving natural treasures like Mount Baker, the Picket Range, Cascade Pass, and Suiattle River—but in truth, Washingtonians owe a great deal of gratitude to early visionaries like Polly Dyer. Without Dyer and her ilk, imagine what might have been: Clear-cuts in the Stehekin Valley. A half-mile-wide open-pit copper mine in the shadow of Glacier Peak. The ancient cedars of the Little Beaver Valley drowned underwater. Dyer’s six decades of writing letters, organizing volunteers, attending meetings, serving on committees, and lobbying legislators

in both Washingtons, have helped keep some of our most spectacular landscapes intact. And in the era before social media, virtual meet-ups, and online petitions, those conservation efforts required a lot of legwork, fundraising, face-to-face negotiations, and pots of coffee. Preserving wild places has been Dyer’s undying passion. “It is a priceless asset which all the dollars man can accumulate will not buy back,” she testified before the U.S. Senate, in support of what would become the Wilderness Act of 1964. With fellow conservationist Howard Zahniser, she is credited with the elegant definition of wilderness enshrined in that legislation: “an area where the earth and its community of life are untrammeled by man, where man himself is a visitor who does not remain.” As environmental conservation slowly

took hold in the national consciousness in the 1960s, all eyes looked toward the North Cascades. The Sierra Club, Wilderness Society, The Mountaineers, and countless local groups were determined to win permanent protection for the “American Alps.” President Lyndon Johnson signed the North Cascades Act in 1968, creating North Cascades National Park, Ross Lake National Recreation Area, Lake Chelan National Recreation Area, and nearly one million acres of wilderness in the neighboring Glacier Peak and Pasayten highlands. “Dyer’s drive has been to protect wilderness areas, preserving them as places where the force of nature—rather than the will of human beings—prevails,” historian Paula Becker writes. “Banding with others who fervently believe protecting wilderness areas matters, and steadily recruiting new supporters for the conservation movement, has been her life’s work.” Originally published in The North Cascades: Finding Beauty and Renewal in the Wild Nearby, Braided River Books.

The late Polly Dyer and North Cascades Institute founder and Executive Director Saul Weisberg at the North Cascades Environmental Learning Center / NCI

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Accidents in the national parks can inflict more damage than a cracked phone screen...

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Every day we are overwhelmed with stunning photos from the National Park System. Instagram, Twitter, Facebook, and Pinterest, along with other websites and social media outlets, feed us spectacular photos of high country lakes, wild grizzlies, bison, glaciers, and stunning peaks. While they provide the inspiration to head out into the parks, they don’t always show how difficult and, sometimes, how dangerous, it can actually be. As more and more people visit our parks, more of them are faced with some unintended consequences from the wilderness, and even conflicts with wildlife. A little apprehension during your visit might mean your safe return.

ast year alone, in 2017, Glacier National Park welcomed 3.3 million visitors, more than a 10 percent increase from the year before. So, why are so many more people coming to visit? “Are we seeing social media impacts?” wondered Glacier Superintendent Jeff Mow. “Last year was interesting, because last year was the 50th anniversary of the Night of Grizzlies.” Night of the Grizzlies, for those unfamiliar, is the title of a book that recounted the fatal mauling on August 13, 1967, of two young women in the park’s backcountry by grizzly bears. They were horrific incidents that Jack Olsen recounted in a three-part series for Sports Illustrated, and then as a book. “It made me think,” Superintendent Mow said, referring to that book, “when I grew up back in the ‘70s, Glacier was probably not considered a first-timer’s national park. Not in that aftermath. There were these grizzly bears, and if you were going to go there you really needed to know what you’re doing. “And you know, when I see what goes on today, I think social media has sort of stripped that all away, that barrier (of apprehension), as psychological as it was, is just gone,” he said. While the ruggedness of the park’s backcountry, and the power of grizzlies as outlined in Night of the Grizzlies, once kept neophytes glued to the front country and off many trails, the superintendent has a hunch that the bombardment of gorgeous photos has diluted that level of apprehension.

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“The popularity of smartphone photography, with its limited zoom capacity and social media sharing of selfies, might explain why visitors disregard park regulations and approach wildlife more closely than when traditional camera technology was used.” — The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention noted in 2016

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“It was our concessions folks who were saying, ‘You know, we have never seen so many people who have never been to a national park before,’” he said. “And to them that was remarkable, because that’s not the norm, that’s not what we’ve historically seen.” That lack of familiarity with Glacier, and not knowing exactly what to expect, brought many visitors who evidently were not prepared for the physical hardships and commonsense demands. “We had 14 days in a row on the Highline Trail, 14 days in a row, we had to do carry-outs,” said Superintendent Mow, referring to the practice of rangers using litters for rescues. “From usually between Granite Park and the Loop. Generally because people didn’t carry enough water. And it’s only three miles from Granite Park to the Loop, and it’s all downhill.

Above: Be careful on your national park vacation and ensure you don’t need a lift out of the park / NPS Below: At Yellowstone, there are opportunities to practice your hand at using bear spray so you’ll feel a bit more comfortable deploying it if you encounter one of the park’s grizzlies / NPS

“I think most people think, ‘Oh, this is easy, this will take less than an hour, let’s just do it.’ They don’t fill up with water like they should,” and soon realize that “this is the hottest, longest, three miles, downhill or not. It’s brutal,” he said. “We’re seeing people who are less prepared, less experienced in the backcountry, but they still want to go to these places where you get these amazing photos,” said Superintendent Mow. At Iceberg Lake, which requires a 10-mile roundtrip hike through grizzly country to reach, there were times last summer when park staff had to wait to clean the pit toilet at the lake “because there were 15-20 people waiting to put on their bathing suits,” said the superintendent. “We’ve never seen that before. Again, I think that idea of swimming with the icebergs or swimming out to an iceberg and getting your photo taken, it’s all that sort of ‘selfie’ thing.” And while there are great photo opportunities in the parks, visitors have to still appreciate, and respect, this wild landscape. In the past few years, Yellowstone National Park has seen a number of incidents where visitors— anxious to get a “selfie” with a bison—got too close to one of these 1,400-pound animals, even turning their backs on them for the photo. From May 2015 to July 2015, bison attacked five Yellowstone visitors; all five had failed to maintain the required 75-foot distance from the animals, according to park investigations. Three of the five sustained injuries while taking photographs from just 3 to 6 feet away, including two who turned their back on the bison to take the picture. One admitted to taking a selfie. In one 2015 case, an Australian visitor was gored by a bison that tossed him “into the air several times,” an investigation determined. “He got to within 3 to 5 feet from the bison when it charged him.” In another, a 16-year-old exchange student was gored when she tried to pose next to a bison for a picture. “The girl turned her back to the bison to have her picture taken when the bison lifted its head, took a couple steps and gored her,” park staff said. Memorializing your time in the park has become especially dangerous with the advent of cell phone photography. “The popularity of smartphone photography, with its limited zoom capacity and social media sharing of selfies, might explain why visitors disregard park regulations and approach wildlife more closely than when traditional camera technology was used,” the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention noted in 2016.

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While this graphic was created by Yellowstone staff, its guidelines can be used throughout the National Park System / NPS

With vacation season upon us, here are some safety tips from various parks for enjoying your park visit without putting yourself in danger. v Stay on established trails and boardwalks in Yellowstone to avoid the chance of falling into a hot spring. v At Acadia National Park in Maine, keep a safe distance from Thunder Hole, particularly on stormy days that generate larger than usual waves, or you could get swept into the ocean.

v No matter how hot it is as youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re hiking up the Mist Trail in Yosemite National Park, stay behind the railings that keep you from getting too close to the Merced River as it crashes out of the high country. Slipping into the torrent is deadly.

v At Sequoia National Park, though the Middle Fork of the Kaweah River near Hospital Rock looks very tantalizing when the temperature surpasses 100 degrees, it has a history of drowning visitors not accustomed to the current.

Keep your distance from snakes and you wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t see this attacking display caught of a Western rattlesnake at Mesa Verde National Park / NPS

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Waterfalls throughout the National Park System can be dangerous if you’re not careful. Rocks rimming them often are wet and slippery / Glacier National Park photo of St. Mary Falls

v Cape Cod, Cape Hatteras, and Cape Lookout national seashores all have a history of riptides, which can lead to tragedy. Pay attention to lifeguards. Know how to survive riptides by swimming parallel to the beach until you escape the sea-going current. v Angels Landing at Zion National Park might be a badge of courage for those who ascend to its summit, but use your judgment. If the crowds are too great, or your fear gets to you, there’s no shame in turning back. There are trails in other parks— Acadia, Grand Canyon, and Canyonlands, just to mention three—that also have steep drop-offs that need to be respected.

Depending on where you get hurt, and how quickly you need to reach a medical facility, rangers might summon a helicopter to get you to safety / NPS

v Some of the biggest sandboxes in the country can be found in Death Valley National Park and White Sands National Monument, but they turn notoriously hot and dangerous in summer when the temperature routinely goes above 100 degrees. Avoid the dunes at midday, and when you do go out, take plenty of water and good footwear to keep from burning your feet. v Bouldering in parks such as Joshua Tree, Grand Teton, Rocky Mountain, and New River Gorge National River can be fun, but be sure

to have spotters and use crash pads to avoid serious injury. v Be careful where you put your hands when you hike. Rattlesnakes and scorpions could be relaxing in the sun on a handhold just above your head. v Beware the brinks of waterfalls. These rocks at the top could be slippery with moss and spray, and lead to a fall. And if you intend to jump into a pool, be sure that it is clear of obstructions, and is deep enough.

But, perhaps the greatest threats in the parks are the roads. Most were designed for much slower traffic, and the narrow lanes and lack of shoulders leave little room for error. Be sure your designated driver focuses on the road, not the surrounding landscape, and drives defensively. After all, a little apprehension can be a healthy thing.

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What’s In Your National Park Library? Can you ever have enough books in your personal national parks library? Well, not if you’re a true parks enthusiast. Odds are, you’ll run out of bookshelf space before you run out of titles on the parks. Even with that understood, here are some selections you might want to have on hand for both research and enjoyment purposes.

First Impressions, A Reader’s Journey To Iconic Places Of The American Southwest

Deep Into Yellowstone: A Year’s Immersion In Grandeur & Controversy

This is not a book for light reading. It is, though, one that takes a historical approach to examining the hallmarks of the Southwestern landscape. Canyon de Chelly, El Morro, Rainbow Bridge, Chaco Canyon, Mesa Verde, and the Grand Canyon are among the destinations to which we are reintroduced through the writings of the first non-natives who encountered.

This title, by Rick Lamplugh, is a primer on both the grandeur and controversies of Yellowstone National Park. Mr. Lamplugh writes not as a scientist, park manager, or authority on any of the issues, but as an outdoorsman and concerned citizen who has been captivated by the Yellowstone country. He tells stories, delves into park history related to the issues he describes, and offers natural history insights into the Yellowstone community as he explores it.

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Heading Out: A History Of American Camping Has America seen its heyday of campers pass? Is sleeping under the stars now on a slow downward trajectory, not unlike the dying flames of a campfire? That’s one of the questions Terence Young examines in this heavily footnoted text tracing the history of camping in the United States.

As awe-inspiring as national parks are, they can be also be dangerous, if you’re not careful. More than a few authors have picked up on that theme, and here are just three of the many titles.

Into The Mist: Tales Of Death And Disaster Books like David Brill’s, are reminders that national park landscapes can be as deadly as they are beautiful. If anyone is apprehensive about entering one of the nation’s big park landscapes that rolls and tumbles, sprawls and stretches, climbs and dips, and is roamed by wild animals that might consider you as a meal, this is not the book for them.

Big Walls, Swift Waters: Epic Stories From Yosemite Search And Rescue When the Yosemite Search and Rescue men and women head out, they might be plucking a hiker from icy waters, evacuating a climber from a sheer cliff, or recovering the body of someone who wasn’t even that lucky. It’s dramatic reading.

Engineering Eden: The True Story Of A Violent Death, A Trial, And The Fight Over Controlling Nature Jordan Fisher Smith masterfully describes the mistakes national park managers made with grizzly bears, telling of a time when certain park practices actually raised the odds of being attacked, if only a little. For example, leftovers and kitchen waste were routinely dumped not far from kitchens, providing the nightly “shows” as visitors watched grizzlies gorge. And when these dumps were shut down, suddenly, the bears went after those it associated with those free meals: people.

Anthologies are always great to have on hand in your library, as they provide a nice range of stories on either a specific park or a number of parks. The Rocky Mountain National Park Reader

Natural Wonders Of Assateague Island

This title is a great addition for park lovers. Through its nearly 280 pages James H. Pickering has masterfully assembled narratives crafted from those who homesteaded the land within today’s park, from naturalists such as Anne Zwinger, Stephen Trimble, SueEllen Campbell, and some mountaineers.

As much as writers love to use words to create lasting images in readers’ minds, photographer Mark Hendricks, has captured the flora and fauna of Assateague Island National Seashore in a wonderful photo collection. You, and your visitors, will love looking through these pages.

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As rich as the National Park System is in beauty and grandeur, it’s also an incredible repository for our history, whether that’s cultural or natural history and that should be reflected on your bookshelves.

Civil War Battlefields: Walking The Trails Of History National Park Roads: A Legacy In The American Landscape In this title, Dr. Timothy Davis details the history of a relationship as fragile and monumental as Glacier National Park’s Going-to-the-Sun Road – full of ups and downs, twists and turns, challenges and beauty. It is a story that many of us take for granted; after all, a park’s road serves as a de facto tour guide for most visitors, and that’s due to intricate planning and inventive engineering by park leaders for over 100 years.

Traveling from the Battle of First Manassas to Appomattox Court House, and stopping at nearly three dozen battlefields along the way, the author first sets the scene at each location by laying down in stirring prose the events that took place there. Then, he selects a number of trails you can follow through these hallowed places, to not just gain a feel for the lay of the land, but to practically feel how the battles progressed.

Where Water Is Gold: Life And Livelihood In Alaska’s Bristol Bay This is a wonderful look at life around Bristol Bay, Alaska. While the bay’s waters are known as the foremost source of sockeye salmon, the mountains surrounding the bay are also sources of great mineral wealth, which makes for a conflict. Carl Johnson’s gorgeous photography does a fine job of showcasing a way of life that may be threatened by the proposed Pebble Creek Mine.

For more suggestions, visit National Parks Traveler’s book review section, nationalparkstraveler.org/review

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Parting Shot

National parks long have lured the adventurous out-of-doors, and many drove into the parks trailering their shelters, such as this couple snapped at Acadia National Park in 1922. Photo by NPS, Herbert W. Gleason Collection