3rd Annual Essential Paddling Guide To The Parks by Kurt Repanshek

We’ll start our watery centennial celebration June 18-21 with a float through the legendary Gates of Lodore on the Green River through Dinosaur National Monument with Holiday River Expeditions. This trip will feature noted national park historian Dr. Alfred Runte, who will look back on the Park Service’s first century and peer into its next. CLICK HERE for more details on the Gates of Lodore trip June 18-21, 2016

On July 22, we’ll be at Grand Teton National Park for a three-day sea kayak trip on Jackson Lake with O.A.R.S. We’ll camp on Grassy Island, find time to fish for trout or hike up Moran Creek, and wrap up with a half-day float down the Snake River. CLICK HERE for more details on the Grand Teton trip July 22-24, 2016

We’ll conclude the centennial excursions with a return to Cataract Canyon in Canyonlands National Park. This trip, September 26-October 1, with Holiday River Expeditions will feature Kevin Poe, the original ‘Dark Ranger,’ who will help us track the constellations overhead after the sun goes down. CLICK HERE for more details on the Cataract Canyon trip Sept 26-Oct 1, 2016

CONTENTS 5 Going With The Flow By Colleen Miniuk-Sperry

Many explore Lake Powell by houseboat, but our writer was searching for something even more experiential, so she tackled it by SUP.

10 Watery Reads By NPT staff

Whether you choose Abbey, Zwinger, McPhee or Muir, you can’t go wrong with this collection of water-borne reads.

12 Rapids And Reptiles By Kurt Repanshek

As the Colorado River flows through Canyonlands National Park, you can’t help but notice Cataract Canyon’s rapids. The dinosaurs, you have to look closer for them.

18 A Pacific Ocean Basecamp By Patrick Cone

Make the effort to visit Channel Islands National Park and you should plan on pitching your basecamp on Santa Cruz Island, as our intrepid writer did.

22 With A Little Help From Our Friends

In this, the centennial year of the National Park Service, O.A.R.S. has teamed up with the National Park Foundation to lure more youth into the National Park System.

25 Rapids Of Note By NPT staff

There are countless rapids on the white-water rivers in the National Park System, but a survey of river rats pointed to these as some of the best.

29 Gear List? Check. By Kurt Repanshek

Before heading to the put-in, double-check your gear list against Traveler’s so you don’t leave anything vital at home.

30 Wild Water By NPT staff

The Wild and Scenic River Act has done incalculable good in preserving and protecting rivers across the nation. Here’s a look at those wonderful waters.

34 Red-Rock Hub

Southeastern Utah’s red-rock playground, from its slickrock gyms to its river corridors, revolves around Moab, Utah.

36 Where To Paddle

What would a paddling guide be without a paddling directory? Here’s where you find where to paddle and float in the National Park System.

Editor: Kurt Repanshek Art Director: Courtney Cooper Special Projects Editor: Patrick Cone National Parks Traveler’s Essential Guide To Paddling The Parks is published by National Park Advocates, LLC, to showcase how best to enjoy and explore the waters of the National Park System. National Park Advocates, LLC, P.O. Box 980452, Park City, Utah, 84098. © 2016 Essential Guide to Paddling The Parks. All rights reserved. The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in any form without written permission from the publisher.

Exploring Parks By Canoe, Kayak, Raft, And Even SUP

’ve never surfed a day in my life despite the many vacations on the Jersey shore. So, maybe you’ll understand why I’m at a loss for words about the first time I saw a Stand Up Paddleboard in action. What was that contraption? And, why paddle a SUP when you can run rivers and cross lakes with canoes, kayaks, and rafts? But then, I got a chance to take one for a spin, during Traveler’s float down the Colorado River through Canyonlands National Park last fall. The flat stretches of water made standing on a SUP fairly easy, and keeping my balance while dipping the paddle into the water was even easier. Now, you’re not going to be able to haul as much gear on a paddleboard as you can in other boats, but there’s something to be said about silently working your way down river standing. Your perspective changes slightly since you’re high above the water. And, you can really get lost in your thoughts while mechanically paddling along, gazing across the water. Last fall Colleen Miniuk-Sperry (page 5) took her paddleboard to Lake Powell, in Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, one of the many units of the National Park System where SUPing is allowed. To find other parks that allow the sport, check out our directory beginning on page 36. It also lists the best parks for canoeing, kayaking, and rafting. And, inside, read Special Projects Editor Patrick Cone’s (page 18) story about camping in Channel Islands National Park, off the coast of California.

on the cover New River Gorge National River in West Virginia, captured here by Randall Sanger, is one of the East’s best white-water rivers. Photo via Visit Southern West Virginia.

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A convert to SUPing / Photo by Patrick Cone

Santa Cruz Island proved to be a great basecamp for exploring the watery side of the park. And, dinosaurs, of all things, turn up in my story (page 12) about our six-day float trip through Canyonland’s Cataract Canyon. In our 3rd Annual Essential Guide to Paddling the Parks you’ll also find articles on the best rapids in the National Park System, great reads to take with you on the river or lake, and a rundown on our Wild and Scenic River System. By the time you reach the last page, we think you’ll agree there are some great paddling and floating experiences in our parks.

~ Kurt Repanshek

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Written and Photographed by Colleen Miniuk-Sperry

“If everyone knew just how beautiful it is, everyone would be out here,” my 64-year-old mother, Jacque, declared as she gently and gracefully stroked the muddy Colorado River with her kayak paddle. “Just think, we’ll get to see amazing sights only a few people have—or ever will—see on this adventure,” I responded with a smile from my 14-foot inflatable Stand Up Paddleboard (SUP).

Jacque Miniuk kayaks past striated sandstone cliffs called The Palisades on the Colorado River/Lake Powell in Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, Utah.

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erely one hour before, we left my father, my best friend, cell phone service, and daily to-do lists on the rocky shores of the remote Dirty Devil River launch area (along Highway 95 in Utah) at the northernmost end of Lake Powell. In the four days ahead, we intended to paddle approximately 47 miles of Lake Powell’s main artery—from Hite to Halls Crossing— pulsing through the vast 1.25 million acres comprising the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area. Although controversy has surrounded North America’s secondlargest manmade reservoir since the completion of the Glen Canyon Dam in 1963 (which impeded the Colorado River’s flow), we wanted to experience this pristine landscape not how it was, 6

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not how it will be, but rather just how Glen Canyon appears today. After all, the sinuous canyons, undulating waves, and croaking coots do not hold any political views. We saw no reason why we needed to possess them either while we paddled in their picturesque home. Turbid waves tickled ochre-colored, 600-foot-tall sandstone cliffs as a squawking great blue heron soaring beneath a clear blue November sky welcomed us into the wild—and into the canyon’s embrace. Thanks to the combination of Lake Powell’s lower water level (around 3,605 feet elevation vs. full pool elevation of 3,700 feet) and the high incoming Colorado and Dirty Devil rivers’ flow (about 107 percent above average), a fast-moving current pushed us effortlessly past the deserted Hite marina and a staggering narrow corridor of rugged bluffs called The Palisades. My DeLorme InReach clocked our speed at an impressive 5.7 miles per hour! As we passed the mouth of White Canyon, an oddity appeared in the water in front of my board and spanned my entire peripheral vision. Using my paddle as a brake, I stopped on the definitive line where the opaque brown silty flow of the Colorado River conceded its inevitable fate and melted into the crystal-clear jade-green waters of Lake Powell. I quickly dipped my left foot into the chocolate milk beneath my board as if to thank the river for carrying us this far. Then, I dropped my right foot into the verdurous water to introduce myself to the lake.

Top: Jacque Miniuk soaks in her beautiful surroundings in Good Hope Bay while taking an on-shore break on Lake Powell in Glen Canyon NRA. Middle: Colorful reflected light from a setting sun bouncing off surrounding cliffs illuminates crashing waves on a tiny cobble island near The Horn on Lake Powell in Glen Canyon NRA. Bottom: Colleen Miniuk-Sperry pumps drinking water from Lake Powell near The Horn rock formation near mile 129 in Glen Canyon NRA.

Above: View of the sandstone monoliths from our camp in Fourmile Canyon at sunset along Lake Powell in Glen Canyon NRA.

“Ma, you have to see this!” I exclaimed, pointing to the phenomenon with my paddle. “The river! It gives up right here!” Without the benefit of the river’s current—and with the addition of a southwesterly breeze—our progress slowed, but our unhurried pace allowed us to connect more deeply with our ever-changing surroundings. We contemplated the intense ruckus caused after house-sized boulders tumbled off the cliffs and came to rest on the shore below ages ago. We observed two bald eagles resting on a thin cliff ledge. When air bubbles rose to the water’s surface, we wondered if historic relics were gasping for air from the bottom of the drowned canyon. Filled with gratifying wonder and amazement, we pulled onto a sandy spit in Fourmile Canyon to camp as the day’s sun dropped behind serrated spires. A nearly full moon took its place, illuminating the tips of monolithic buttes until thin cirrus clouds dimmed the light in the still of the night. The evening’s weather forecasts suggested a cold front (with high winds expected to top out around 30 mph) would arrive the following afternoon. We woke a few ticks after 6 a.m. to threatening clouds hovering in the east. When we re-entered the main channel, we met a nonchalant breeze. However, as soon as we turned west, it abruptly transformed into an onslaught of unrelenting crosswinds. We looked like happy dogs sticking our heads out of a fast-moving car window. I pointed toward a distant peak called The Horn and shouted over the wind’s howls to Jacque, “GO TOWARDS THAT POINT. I’LL MEET YOU THERE!” She nodded and then propelled herself to the southern shoreline, bobbing across two-foot whitecaps. To gain more control over my board’s direction, I sat down on my SUP’s “loveseat” and tugged my paddle through what felt like wet cement. After rounding The Horn, a fierce headwind roared against the sheer sandstone walls and brought both our vessels to a halt despite rowing with all our strength. Tumbleweed bounced off the shore and skipped across the NationalParksTraveler.com

The full moon illuminates the sandstone cliffs near Cedar Canyon (mile 113) under a sky full of stars. Viewed from our Day 3 camp on Lake Powell in Glen Canyon NRA.

water’s surface. Spray drifted in the air, spinning ghostly apparitions. We took spontaneous refuge on a 300-foot-diameter island covered in cobble, driftwood, and tumbleweed at the western tip of The Horn. As we waited for the feisty squall to pass, we became “Thing-Finders” like my favorite childhood book character, Pippi Longstocking. We found a wheel-shaped slice of petrified wood, studied bizarre driftwood patterns, and marveled at different colored rocks. Intensifying winds and a hesitant drizzle—paired with a million-dollar view of striated stone monuments around us—made our decision to sleep overnight on what we affectionately called “Gilligan’s Island” a simple one. A calm breeze gently flapping against our tent’s rain fly brought us out of our morning slumber. We hastily downed breakfast, packed our gear, and launched to take advantage of the more favorable conditions. After paddling about two miles into a light headwind, we reached Red Canyon’s bay. The winds suddenly ceased, and the water turned to glass. We entered a euphoric dream. I looked towards Blue Notch Canyon to see light, shadow, and a palette of pastel colors dancing an elegant tango from mesa to mesa, bluff to bluff, as if the late famed Western painter Thomas Moran was brushing the scene to life right before our eyes. The sun peeked out from clearing clouds, spotlighting individual alcoves and arches hidden among the jigsaw-puzzle patterns on stoic rock faces. Mesmerizing ribbons of waves streamed from the bow of my board, which was the only way I knew I was still moving.

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“It’s like paddling through silk,” Jacque whispered above nature’s silent song. Before noon we glided into Good Hope Bay, where we waved to the only four boats we encountered all trip. Although we had reached our intended stopping point for the day, we agreed the sublime conditions were too delicious to stop. We continued winding six additional scenic miles until we found a small beach near the mouth of Cedar Canyon to call home for the night. With stars erupting onto a black velvet sky, we celebrated our glorious 15-mile triumph—and Thanksgiving Day– by mowing down freeze-dried dinners and toasting a glass of wine. As we concluded our adventure at Halls Crossing the following day, I contracted a severe case of “canyonitus,” a term folk-singer, writer, and Glen Canyon explorer Katie Lee used in her book, All My Rivers are Gone, to describe the infallible allure of this magical place. Hungry for more, I began planning a future trip to paddle the entire 147-mile length of Lake Powell.

View from Colleen Miniuk-Sperryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s inflatable stand-up paddleboard during high winds and swells near the Tapestry Wall (visible on top right, mile 110) on Lake Powell in Glen Canyon NRA.

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What’s In Your Paddling Library?

here are times when a book on paddling comes in handy. You might be planning a trip, searching for inspiration, or have a layover day on your trip when you just want to relax with a good read. With those moments in mind, we recommend that you stock your personal library with the following selections, at a minimum.

Canoeing Wild Rivers, 30th Anniversary Edition This seminal book on wilderness paddling by Cliff Jacobson is the canoer’s bible. It covers everything from how to pick a river and how to pack for your paddle to how to pick a crew that won’t disappoint you when you’re running downstream in a rainstorm. Travels in Alaska John Muir headed to Glacier Bay, Alaska, in 1879 to further his education on glaciers and their effects on landscapes. The trip, by canoe with the help of Tlingit guides, helped Muir refine his thoughts on how the Yosemite Valley was carved by ice. This, his accounts of the journey, is a wonderful read that reveals insights on Muir, of course, but also on Glacier Bay and its icefields. The Romance of the Colorado River How better to get to know Major John Wesley Powell’s trips down the Green and Colorado rivers than by reading a first-hand account? Frederick S. Dellenbaugh accompanied Powell on his second expedition, in 1871.

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This book includes not only provides accounts of that expedition, but correspondence between Powell and Dellenbaugh and many photos and sketches from the journey. The Emerald Mile: The Epic Story Of The Fastest Ride In History Through The Heart Of The Grand Canyon In 1983 the Glen Canyon Dam was poised to fail, but high waters through the Grand Canyon led three veteran boatmen to attempt a speed-run down the Colorado River under a full moon. This is the story of the men and women who live and work in the Grand Canyon. Kevin Fedarko provides the historical context needed to understand the story as well, from early Spanish explorations to John Wesley Powell’s 1869 epic survey. Even seasoned readers will learn something new. Elwha, A River Reborn The dismantling of dams along the Elwha River in, and just outside, Olympic National Park has been described as the largest dam removal project in U.S. history. Trying to follow the story from afar is difficult, at best, which makes Elwha, A River Reborn, a good book to read. Run, River, Run Ann Zwinger wrote this book back in 1975, but the stories told through her naturalist’s eyes while following and floating the Green River from its headwaters high in the Wind River Range of Wyoming down to its confluence with the Colorado River in Canyonlands National Park

remains a classic today. As Edward Abbey wrote in endorsing the book so many years ago, “Run, River, Run should serve as a standard reference work on this part of the American West for many years to come.” The Survival of the Bark Canoe John McPhee is one of the 20th century’s great storytellers, and paddlers shouldn’t overlook the stories he writes about Henri Vaillancourt’s talents for making birch-bark canoes. But this book goes beyond knitting together overlapping layers of bark with lacings of spruce or white pine roots and pitch, taking us on a 150-mile canoe trip through the Maine woods. Down the River Edward Abbey was an inveterate river rat. And in Down the River he regales us with stories of his river trips…as well as essays on topics as diverse as the MX missile—“The functional drive-force behind the MX project is not so much military defense as intellectual inertia – the natural institutional tendency to continue along familiar grooves. The nuclear arms race has been in progress for thirty-five years; why stop now?”—and how the transformation of the natural landscape by humans is a threat to “the very idea of freedom.” In the Heart of the Sea Weaving together narratives from more than a century ago, Nathaniel Philbrick tells the backstory of MobyDick, a story that spins out from a real case of a sperm whale attacking an early 19th century whaleship.

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Rivers, Reptiles Rapids Deep in Canyonlands National Park We had come to Canyonlands National Park from North Carolina, Texas, Colorado, Virginia, Missouri, Utah, and California, determined to spend six leisurely days floating the Green and Colorado rivers through one of the most remote, rugged, and majestic regions of the continental United States. By Kurt Repanshek | Photography by Patrick Cone

Days of peaceful floating allow you to savor, and closely study, the landscape unending time has cut into the Colorado Plateau

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aleontology was not on our itinerary, but geologic history lay in every direction here in southeastern Utah. As we drifted down the Green River, a pair of sharp eyes spotted high above the river two sloping slabs that bore the stone tracks of ancient reptiles. Now, these animals really didn’t seem to have skittered this way or that; more likely they had lazily trod their path across a muddy shoreline of an ancient sea. You could tell they weren’t being pursued. The two Jurassic Period creatures had left neatly spaced symmetrical tracks on sands time had transformed into Navajo sandstone. These 185-million-year-old prehistoric calling cards were the last thing we expected when we left the Green River’s sandy bank at Mineral Bottom the previous day. Reminders of another world, they provided some historical context for our watery journey towards Glen Canyon National Recreation Area and Lake Powell, our end point. Our party consisted of 15 National Parks Traveler readers and five guides, all

looking forward to a week of boating. The Green River above the confluence with the Colorado River is a calm, beautiful stretch of water. Sandstone towers, cliffs, and canyons spread in all directions. Further down on the Colorado we’d be busy for a day of rapid-crashing fun, and not trying to decipher paleontological puzzles. Canyonlands National Park itself is a riddle, wrapped in a puzzle, surrounded by an enigma. Sprawled across more than 527 square miles, the park would fit comfortably within Yellowstone National Park, which covers 3,468 square miles. But, in golf parlance, Canyonlands “plays” much larger than its size. A few Jeep trails cut this tortured landscape towards overlooks, campgrounds, and old uranium mining prospects, but most access is by foot or boat. Hiking here is a serious endeavor for those well-acquainted with canyon country travel. Once away from the Green and Colorado rivers, flowing water and springs are infrequent, and the weather usually is dry, hot, and windy. River Time Past and Present River travel is a great way to explore the park’s canyons and get well away from the beaten path. “This is the way to experience and see this park,” Mike Hardinger remarked as we floated along. “I knew about the canyon (Cataract), but couldn’t truly picture its grandeur.” Bob Lacasse had enjoyed his motor trip through the Grand Canyon, but now appreciated the small, human-powered rafts. ”Oar boats offer a much more realistic river-running experience,” he said. One key difference, of course, is the pace. Muscle-powered boats mainly track the river’s speed. Drifting along through this primeval landscape is timeless, as if you had traveled back to the 19th century or earlier. Desert writer Ed Abbey was particularly drawn to river running, so much so that he wrote an entire book on his favored pastime, Down The River.

A good pair of eyes spotted these tracks frozen in stone high above the Colorado River.

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In one essay, dated November 7, 1980, he wrote, “We climb a hill of clay and shale and limestone ledges to inspect at close hand an ancient ruin of stone on the summit. An Anasazi structure, probably seven or eight hundred years old, it commands a broad view of river and canyon for many miles both up and downstream, and offers a glimpse of higher lands beyond. We can see the great Buttes of the Cross, Candlestick Tower, Junction Butte (where the Green River meets the Colorado), Ekker Butte, Grandview Point, North Point, and parts of the White Rim. “Nobody human lives at those places, or in the leagues of monolithic stone between them. We find pleasure in that knowledge. From this vantage point everything looks about the same as it did when Major John Wesley Powell and his mates first saw it in 1869,” he continued. On our trip last fall we also went ashore to retrace Abbey’s steps—and possibly even those of Major Powell— for an inspection of this same ancient stone tower on the hilltop. The view was indeed sweeping and stunning. It was as if we could hear the echoes of ancient voices from the ruin’s walls. The quiet was interrupted only by the wind, and the canyon country stretched away to all points of the compass. The civilized world, the urbanization of the country, the planet’s unrest, all seemed so distant. Down below, on a flat spot close to the river, squatted the broken down skeletal remains of a homesteader’s cabin, a rugged existence at best, that tagged this patch of river bank “Fort Bottom.” While the Colorado River through the Grand Canyon is usually heralded as the river trip of a lifetime, a river trip through Canyonlands is just as spectacular in its own way. Once away from the pavement, this national park is primitive and raw. The muddy rivers flow beneath the ocher, buff, black, red, and blonde walls, having cut their way through this arid landscape. Our late-September departure also ensured an extra helping of river solitude, as it was well past the high summer season. We shared the river with blue heron and eagles. River otters played on the lip of the serious series of Big Drop rapids in Cataract Canyon. A beaver—bank dwellers here—had no chance of stopping the river, and one evening we watched as a desert bighorn ram led his harem down to water.

The Green River above the confluence with the Colorado provides plenty of flat water for SUPing and checking out the geology up close. Below: This ancient ruin, on a hillside high above the Green River, provides sweeping 360-degree views of the surrounding landscape.

Into the Doll House From Mineral Bottom, the Green River cuts deeper and deeper into the landscape, as the rimming canyon walls rise higher and higher. Below the confluence with the Colorado the rift in the landscape grows deeper thanks to the added water power. Here parapets, spires, and towers stand like some castle’s battlements high above us. Despite their steepness and height, the rising sun quickly fills the canyons to the brim in the morning. We quickly swapped fleece jackets for shorts and T-shirts as the arc of the sun bore down on the landscape, and we sought out high-noon shade for solace from our fiery star. We left the Green River one morning and scrambled up the precarious switchbacks of Water Canyon toward the sandstone plateau of the park’s Maze District. This was a bonus, for relatively few visitors get to explore the side canyons that snake off from the river. Though it was late September, the well-named canyon had pockets and pools of water, some reflecting the Creamsicle-colored walls overhead. After a 1,200foot climb to the rim of the canyon we rambled across open slickrock fields, descended into slot canyons, and passed by rock arches. We walked through the aptly-named Doll House, with its whimsical towers, some of which resemble house-sized Play-Doh concretions. Off in the distance, the spires of Canyonlands’ Needles District stabbed the blue sky, showcasing the ultimate power of erosion: wind, water, and ice. Then, we headed back down the long, steep trail to Spanish Bottom to what was now the Colorado River, after its confluence with the Green a few miles upriver. Our flotilla awaited us there.

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The Big Drops through Cataract Canyon gain their renown from high runoff in early summer...but they still pack a kick in early fall.

When the flow of the Colorado River reaches 50,000 cubic feet per second or higher, many boaters consider this series of rapids as great as any in the Grand Canyon.

We’ll team up again with Holiday River Expeditions this coming September 26-October 1 for a special “astronomy float” through Canyonlands National Park and Cataract Canyon. Kevin Poe, the National Park Service’s ‘Dark Ranger,’ will present nightly star shows. For details, visit http://www.bikeraft.com/specialty-trips/national-parks-traveler-cataract-canyon-trip/

Bucking Cataract The rapids of Cataract Canyon downriver now were on our minds. This 14-mile-stretch of whitewater is the main attraction for many of us after a peaceful, week-long odyssey. During peak runoff in early summer the Big Drop rapids—Drops One, Two, and Three—transform into raft-buckling, raging, torrents of water. When the flow of the Colorado River reaches 50,000 cubic feet per second or higher, many boaters consider this series of rapids as great as any in the Grand Canyon. Our trip through the Big Drops in the lower waters of early October would not feature such violence, and yet the lower flows revealed a rock garden that demanded attention. A swift stroke or two of an oar would lead us to safety, and not a swim. Brin Finnagan, our trip leader with Holiday River Expeditions, pointed out a few hazards to the other guides and passengers as we stood on the rocky shore at the top of the Drops. “There’s a little slot, right between two pour-overs, that leads you just to the left of ‘big mossy’,” he said, raising his voice over the rapids’ roar and pointing out his preferred line down the river. “Usually what I’m doing is using these two little blooper waves up here as markers, and I really like to keep my full ferry—and it’s usually a full ferry left—as long as possible. And I’m going just off the right side of the pour-over that’s closer to us and kinda using that to help you spin and tuck your nose around. Your nose goes around like more than 90 degrees, because it’s (the standing wave) really curling. And right next to that big mossy rock, there’s a pretty good hit. And usually you’re so close to the mossy you have to ship your oar. But it’s really fun. Once that current grabs you, it’s a roller-coaster.” With these kernels of knowledge we boarded our rafts, shoved off from shore, slowly floated towards the brink, and placed faith in our guides. While I braced myself in the rear of the raft and Bud and Beth

Before crashing through the Big Drops, days are spent drifting down the Colorado under a sun so bright and warm that the rafts sprout umbrellas to help keep you cool when you’re not jumping into the river.

McMahon anchored themselves in front, boatman Erika Bash worked her oars against the current, selected her line, and just missed the sweet spot. The raft careened slightly off the “big mossy,” but she corrected with a deft oar stroke and the boat’s nose dropped into place. We bucked our way safely through the whitewater rodeo of the Drops. As the rapids subsided the hand of man was now evident: the dambacked waters of Lake Powell pushed back upstream and dominated the wild river, turning it into flat water. Deep beneath the calm surface, perhaps 100 feet below, were two of the largest, but now buried, rapids of the river according to old timers: Gypsum and Dark Canyon. Perhaps someday they’ll be run again. We then realized that we’d just been somewhere very special, where the pace of the river is the pace of your life. For many, it’s a life-changing trip, and the talk flows toward the next time, the next river, and the next canyon.

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Written and Photographed by Patrick Cone

ortunately for us, there was just such a place last fall when I visited Channel Islands National Park with my wife and young son. But it wasn’t always so. These islands have been called the American Galapagos due to their biodiversity. They are home to more than 2,000 plant and animal species, 145 of which are found nowhere else. The park has rebounded from decades of ranching and cultivation, which nearly devastated the landscape. Over 5,000 feral pigs wreaked havoc on the native flora and fauna and feeding on fennel introduced by ranchers. Today, the pigs, and wild goats are gone, and nature is repairing the damage. These islands lay like a wilderness necklace in the Pacific, just 20 miles and an hour’s boat ride away from the crowded beaches of Santa Barbara and Ventura County. It’s a world apart. Five of the eight Channel Islands were set aside by Congress in 1980 after two centuries of private ownership, cattle ranching, farming, and fishing. The fields and ranches are a legacy of those days. The park covers nearly a quarter-million acres, half of which lies beneath the sea (the Channel Islands National Marine Sanctuary extends six nautical miles around the park) and the park is mostly undeveloped. Once on the island, there is no transportation available, so you’ll be walking everywhere you want to go on land, or by kayak or private boat on the water. No bicycles are allowed, but recreation opportunities abound with snorkeling, diving, kayaking, backpacking, hiking, and wildlife watching. Visit these islands and experience what California use to be. We started our journey from the bucolic Ventura Harbor, at the park’s mainland Robert J. Lagomarsino Visitor Center. There’s a great replica saltwater tidal pool, observation tower, maps, and historic photographs. We looked to the west, and the islands were easily visible. About 300,000 people go through the visitor’s center each year, but only ten percent ever go out to the islands themselves. Not having a private boat, we hopped aboard the Island Packers ferry for a trip out to Scorpion Landing on Santa Cruz Island, the largest of the chain. There, we set up a tent beneath a towering grove of eucalyptus trees, just a few minutes’ walk from the beach. And what a difference from the mainland. There are no campfires allowed at this tent-only site, so the air was clean and fresh. And the only noise was the distant rumble of the waves; there are no RVs, generators,

Top: Scorpion Landing waters are crystal clear. Bottom: On the trail from Smuggler’s Cove, with a view of the LA Basin.

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A sea kayaker takes a tour of Scorpion Cove.

or vehicles here, either. There’s water available from a central spigot, as well as pit toilets, and a small visitor’s center next to the old ranch houses. It’s one of the most peaceful places you will ever spend a night. We headed back down to the beach where we were outfitted with snorkels and wetsuits, and headed out to see what the sea had to offer. We floated along above the swaying kelp forests, and watched as the golden Garibaldi flitted between. The wind had come up, but we were in the lee of the cliffs, and the swells were mild. For the afternoon we boarded one- and twoman sea kayaks from Channel Islands Outfitters, and paddled along the cliffs to the west towards the sea caves. Formed by crashing waves and surf, these features are honeycombed with entrances, tunnels, and slots, which, when timed right, made a thrilling ride in and out. Ocean wildlife viewing is terrific too, with over 30 species of marine mammals.

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This was a great way to cool off. Guide Johnny Dresser brought up a few critters from the ocean floor, and my 12-year-old son Aidan was intrigued by the homely sea potato, which squirts water when threatened. There was the beautifully translucent sea hare, and urchins as well. Some visitors spear their dinners beyond the marine exclusion zones, and kayakers bolder than us head to the other islands in the chain. Along the Santa Barbara Channel, you may spot dolphins, sea lions, elephant seals, and gray whales.

In the summer and fall the amber waves sway with the winds. The isolation and separation of these islands from the mainland have allowed evolution to proceed independently, with astonishing results. Perhaps the most iconic of the islands is Anacapa, with its grand sea arches. The closest island to the mainland, Anacapa also sports one of the chain’s last lighthouses, built in 1932. To the west, Santa Rosa Island is almost as large as Santa Cruz Island, but Santa Barbara Island is a mere 639 acres. While San Nicolas Island, to the south, is not part of the Channel Islands National Park, it’s also well-known for the setting of the book, The Island of the Blue Dolphin, which tells the true tale of a lone, female, Chumash native inhabitant in the late

1800s. In fact, these islands have a long human history, and the oldest human remains in North America were found here, dating back over 13,000 years ago. A half-century ago an estimated 2000 Chumash Indians lived on the islands. San Miguel Island’s Port Bennett is home to more than 30,000 sea lions. And, as evidence of this island’s extreme weather, you can visit the shipwreck of the Tortuga, which ran aground on Cardwell Point in 1987, or the remnants of a B-24 crash from 1943 on Green Mountain. Visit in the spring and the grasslands are so green they’ll hurt your eyes. In the summer and fall the amber waves sway with the winds. The isolation and separation of these islands from the mainland have allowed evolution to proceed independently, with astonishing results. The Channel Islands Fox, for example, has come back from the brink of extinction—with only 50 individuals—and today are commonly viewed. But keep an eye on them, or they’ll invite themselves into your camp. The islands in prehistory were home to the now-extinct Giant Vampire bats. A fossil pygmy mammoth was found in 1998, lived about 12,000 years ago, and stood a little under five-and-a-half feet tall. After a day on the water and dinner, we took an evening hike to Cavern Point, above our camp, for sunset. We watched the sun fall to the west; its fading light turned the landscape red before it was extinguished by the curved edge of the Pacific Ocean. The next morning we cooked our breakfast on our camp stove under the watchful eyes of the playful Channel Island Foxes, packed a lunch, and headed into the interior for a day hike to another landing: Smuggler’s Cove, which gained its name in 1920 for being a popular smuggling stop during Prohibition. While roughly two-thirds of Santa Cruz Island is owned by The Nature Conservancy and is off limits to visitors, there’s plenty of room to roam.

A hiker relaxes under the cypress at Delphine’s Grove, with the Anacapa Island in the distance.

An almost 8-mile round-trip, the trail wound upwards on old roads and trails, past an abandoned dry oil well, with terrific views to the east. An old olive grove covered one whole hillside above this remote cove, where ranchers once grazed cattle. Adobe ranch buildings were tucked away under palms, and a grove. On the way back we passed through Delphine’s grove, Monterey cypress named for the rancher’s daughter in the late-19th century. Once back we soaked our sore feet in the clear, warm sea waters and headed back up to our camp for the night, a warm meal and quiet night well-earned, with dreams of what California used to be. With a little imagination you too can transport yourself back to those more simple times, with a visit to the Channel Islands. You’ll leave with regrets, and vow to return, for this is indeed a most special place.

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Sign up for one of O.A.R.S.’s seak kayak trips in Grand Teton National Park and you’ll be helping bring younger generations into the parks / O.A.R.S.

Floating

With An Eye On The Future Both still waters and those running fast and at times furious are plentiful across the National Park System, offering seemingly endless options for where to dip your paddle. You can drift across the reflection of the Tetons on Jackson Lake in Grand Teton National Park in Wyoming, savor some of the West’s best whitewater in Canyonlands and Arches national parks in Utah, or retrace the path of Major John Wesley Powell’s boats with a modern-day adventure down the Green River in Dinosaur National Monument in Colorado and Utah.

2016 PADDLING GUIDE

ith O.A.R.S. as your guide, you can tackle many of these classic rivers, streams, and lakes, and help contribute to the future of the National Park System. To help the National Park Service mark its centennial this year, the veteran river outfitter and adventure travel company is collaborating with the National Park Foundation on a unique program to introduce younger generations to the outdoors. Through 2016 O.A.R.S. will donate 1 percent of company sales to the Foundation from trips it offers in Arches, Canyonlands, Crater Lake, Grand Teton, Yellowstone,

and Yosemite national parks, as well as Dinosaur National Monument. The company also will contribute 1 percent of the revenues from its new hiking trips in Grand Canyon National Park. Such watery pathways as the Colorado, Green, Yampa, New, Gauley, Missouri, Mississippi, Current, Buffalo, and others make it easy to explore the National Park System while recharging your soul. These streams, some original “roads” when the young United States was growing, in many places flow through landscapes unchanged by man from their appearance 150 or 200 years ago. For many units of the National Park System, preserving these landscapes as best as possible is foremost for the National Park Service. For O.A.R.S., showing off the wonders of these landscapes, exploring them, safely navigating you through them, and contributing to their preservation also is key. “We strongly support the mission of the National Park Service to ‘preserve unimpaired the natural and cultural resources and values of the National Park System for the enjoyment, education, and inspiration of this and future generations,’” says George Wendt, O.A.R.S. president and founder. “By partnering with the National Park Foundation, our goal is to play a role in making park experiences possible for young people and to help them develop a passion for the outdoors.” O.A.R.S. has committed a minimum of $50,000 through the end of 2016 to

support the National Park Foundation’s mission to protect America’s treasured places, connect all people with parks, and inspire the next generation of park stewards. Additionally, O.A.R.S. has committed to an in-kind donation of $95,000 in national park trips to be used in support of National Park Foundation programs, such as Open OutDoors for Kids, to help get underserved youth into parks. “Our national parks provide transformative, life-changing experiences that everyone deserves to have,” says Susan Newton, senior vice president of grants and programs for the National Park Foundation. “As we move into the second century of the National Park Service and look to connect all people to America’s treasured places through our Find Your Park movement, we are grateful for O.A.R.S.’s shared commitment to engaging the next generation of park stewards.” O.A.R.S.’s history in exploring some of these watery corridors dates to 1969, when the company became the first exclusively non-motorized rafting outfitter authorized by the National Park Service to run trips on the Colorado River through the Grand Canyon. Today O.A.R.S. caters to active travelers of all ages and abilities with more than 75 unique itineraries worldwide, including one-day and weekend escapes. River trips, many suitable for children as young as 7, place a premium on family time. Following a riverside

O.A.R.S.’s trips sometimes come ashore, such as during a rim-to-rim trek at Grand Canyon National Park / O.A.R.S.

breakfast of dishes built around eggs, pancakes, cereals, and fresh fruits, days are spent drifting with the currents, swimming in flat-water pools, mastering a “rubber ducky,” and an occasional hike. Once you come ashore for the day, tents are quickly pitched and there’s time for relaxing in conversation or with games while guides work on dinner. Afterwards, campfires cast their soft glow off smiling, and tired, faces. On the Yampa River in Dinosaur, trip participants get to float the last undammed tributary to the Colorado River system. On Jackson Lake, sea kayakers who join O.A.R.S. camp on an island in the afternoon shadow of the Tetons. At Grand Canyon National Park, the company’s guides lead rim-to-rim hikes that include a stay at Phantom Ranch on the floor of the canyon. Just outside Yosemite, you can join O.A.R.S. for white-water runs down the Merced or Tuolumne rivers and combine that experience with hikes in the park’s high country. In working with the National Park Foundation, O.A.R.S. aims to introduce more of today’s youth to these environments and experiences, to develop in them a life-long love not just for the outdoors in general, but for the national parks specifically.

The Yampa River in Dinosaur National Park is perfect for introducing youngsters to river running in the National Park System / O.A.R.S.

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There Are Rapids, and Then There Are

Name-Brand Rapids

What’s in a name? Well, when you hear Hance, the Big Drop, Lost Paddle, or Lava Falls, we’re talking about some of the largest, craziest river rapids in our national parks. Interesting names, for sure, but how do they rate? We posed this question to our river rats: What are the best rapids in the parks? They came up with quite a list. So, if you’re looking for exciting and death-defying whitewater in the parks… NationalParksTraveler.com

Big Drop 2 & 3, Colorado River, Canyonlands National Park, Utah Previous page: Lost Paddle Rapid, Gauley River National Recreation Area / Jay Young, Adventures on the Gorge

Warm Springs, Yampa River, Dinosaur National Monument, Utah/Colorado “It was created in dramatic fashion from a large flash flood in 1965. Our founder, Dee Holladay, was on the river when it happened. The Yampa is also a special river in that it’s one of the last free-flowing rivers on the entire Colorado River system.” — Karen Johnson, Holiday River Expeditions

Lava Falls, Colorado River, Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona “The biggest rapid in the canyon and definitely the most fabled. Rated Class 10 (the highest degree of difficulty in the Grand Canyon), Lava can be 20 of the scariest (and best) seconds of an entire Grand Canyon rafting trip for guides and passengers alike.” — Cari Morgan, O.A.R.S. Lava Falls, Colorado River, Grand Canyon National Park / O.A.R.S.

“Big Drop 2 is legendary in Cataract Canyon—and among whitewater rapids anywhere in the world. In the Spring (flows over 50,000 cubic feet per second) it is perhaps the largest of the largest whitewater in North America—even surpassing that of the Grand Canyon. “When a high water year does happen once a decade or more, it is not an overstatement to say the waves in Big Drop 2 and 3 are nearly three stories high. Any guide on the Colorado River worth their salt is watching the snowpack and placing bets with fellow guides, guessing how high the flow will get, and which day in June it will reach peak flows.” — Kam Wixom, Western River Expeditions Above: Big Drops, Cataract Canyon, Canyonlands National Park / Patrick Cone

2016 PADDLING GUIDE

Disaster Falls, Green River, Dinosaur National Monument, Utah/Colorado “The first fall was not great, only two or three feet, and we had often run such, but below it continued to tumble down 20 to 30 feet more, in a channel filled with dangerous rocks that broke the waves into whirlpools and beat them into foam. I turned just to see the boat strike a rock and throw the men and cargo out. Still they clung to her sides and clambered in again and saved part of the oars, but she was full of water, and they could not manage her. Still down the river they went, two or three hundred yards to another rocky rapid just as bad, and the boat struck again amid ships, and was dashed to pieces. The men were thrown into the river and carried beyond my sight.” — Major John Wesley Powell Warm Springs, Yampa River, Dinosaur National Monument / Patrick Cone

Razorback and Two Rocks, Nenana River, Denali National Park, Alaska

Lost Paddle and Pillow, Gauley River, Gauley River National Recreation Area, West Virginia

“I would vote for two rapids on the Nenana River, which is the boundary of Denali National Park. The first is Razorback and the second is Two Rocks. They are both big, powerful, and fun class III+/IV rapids depending on water level and they are both great for spectators/ visitors to the park...roadside attractions.”

“Of all the ones I’ve done, Lost Paddle might be one of the most difficult and Pillow the most impressive. When you come around the bend 200 yards above Pillow Rock, the cauldron of boiling water, foam, rocks and waves is about as good as it gets in the rafting biz.”

— Bill Overington, Denali Outdoor Center Two Rocks, Nenana River, Denali National Park and Preserve / Denali Outdoor Center

— Dave Hartvigsen, Adventures on the Gorge

Some other rapids you won’t want to ignore:

With the Elwha and Glines Canyon dams removed from the Elwha watershed, kayakers and rafters are flocked to the river in Olympic National Park / NPS

The Spout, Potomac River, Great Falls Park, Virginia Paddlers have known about Great Falls as long as there has been whitewater kayaking. Many of the features— such as the Spout, the Fingers, the Fish Ladder—have names that predate paddling, in some cases by hundreds of years. But it was not until paddlers started running waterfalls regularly in the 1970s that paddlers began to seriously consider running the Falls. The first descent of Great Falls was made in 1975 by local experts Tom McEwan and Wick Walker, with the second descent by Steve McConaughy and Great Falls National Park Ranger Bill Kirby. — American Whitewater

2016 PADDLING GUIDE

Eighteen Footer, Gunnison River, Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, Colorado

Raven Fork, Great Smoky Mountains National Park, North Carolina/ Tennessee

Grand Canyon of the Elwha, Elwha River, Olympic National Park, Washington

This rapid’s name says all you need to know about this Class V challenge.

This narrow, 2.6-mile-long gorge is considered for experts only, as during normal flows rapids dubbed Mangler, Cave Man, Anaconda, and Headless Horseman can be rated V+. It’s no place to lose your head.

This river is a class V expedition trip—an 8.5-mile hike in to the put-in and two canyons with mustrun class IV and V rapids. The Grand Canyon of the Elwha is truly a whitewater treasure and one of the finest runs in Olympic National Park. Expert paddlers from around the world have come to experience this river, but there have been a couple incidents requiring rescues.

— NPT

Sacred Dancing Cascade, McDonald Creek, Glacier National Park, Montana The run is characterized by a handful of challenging Class V bedrock drops separated by Class I/ II sections offering spectacular views of the surrounding mountains. At least one drop may require portaging. — American Whitewater

Rattlesnake, Daddys Creek, Obed Wild and Scenic River, Tennessee This S-curving rapid is rated IV at higher river flows and features a ledge dropoff at the bottom. Be leery of its bite. — NPT

— American Whitewater

Traveler’s GearList FOR Paddling In The Parks

It takes more than a little planning to paddle or float in the National Park System. Cover all the bases with Traveler’s gear list for overnight paddling trips.

Boating q q q q

Camping q Tent(s) with ground cloth and rain fly q Sleeping bags and sleeping pads, with repair kit for inflatable pads q Rainfly or mesh room for dining area, if you’re going during bug season q Rain-proof tarp to keep your cooking/dining area dry q Cookstove, with fuel and repair kit. Some stove manufacturers prepackage repair items in a handy waterproof bag q Eating utensils, plate, bowl, cup. Larger cook kit and frying pan, depending on your menu q Collapsible table q Camp chairs q Biodegradable dish soap and nylon scrubbing pad q Lantern for camp q Waterproof matches or butane lighter stored in plastic bag or dry bag q Water bag or similar q Solar shower q Duct tape for patching tears in tents, rainflys, cracks in water bottles, etc q 50 feet of rope for hoisting foods for storage off the ground in bear country. A couple carabineers makes it easy to attached a bag to the rope.

q q

q q q q

q q q

Canoe, kayak, or raft Paddles with a spare Paddle leash for kayakers Bilge pump for kayakers, bailing bucket and sponge for canoes Pump to inflate SUP if you’re relying on inflatable version Paddle/splash jacket and pants Life jackets/PFD/spray skirt. Extra PFD isn’t a bad idea. Whistles attached to life jackets/PFDs Throw rope Helmets if required Painter (rope attached to boat’s bow for tying up or towing) Maps/GPS unit/compass Plastic map sleeve Dry bags for tent, sleeping bag and pad, rainfly, clothing Smaller dry bags (one per person) for personal items such as wallet, car keys, camera, cellphone, snacks while paddling/ floating/SUPing Kneepad if canoeing

Miscellaneous q q q q q q q

Personal q q q q q q q

q q q q q q q q q

Water bottles Water filter or other purification system Bear spray if you’re paddling in bear country Bug juice Headlamps and or flashlight, with extra batteries Rope for hanging food from tree or bear bar if available First-Aid kit with bandages, butterfly closures, compresses, gauze rolls, adhesive tape, Ace bandage, triple-antibiotic ointment, safety pins, aspirin or similar, antibiotics such as Cipro, tweezers, needle, moleskin, wilderness First-aid book. You may purchase a prepackaged medical kit. Biodegradable soap for personal use Towel Sunglasses and sunscreen Hat Camera Binoculars Paperback book, deck of cards Rain gear: jackets and pants Footwear: One pair for time on the water, another pair of lightweight hiking shoes or something similar for hiking short distances and/or wearing around camp. Clothing: A quick-dry, short-sleeve synthetic T-shirt or two, for paddling; swimsuit or shorts for paddling; long pair of pants (preferably quick-drying), long-sleeved shirt, maybe fleece jacket or windbreaker for off the water depending on season, long-range forecast. Socks. Undies. Toiletries: TP, toothbrush, toothpaste, floss, lip balm, deodorant, etc. A travel-sized packet of anti-bacterial wipes, or similar, is great to have. Meals, including snacks while paddling, seasonings, and an extra day’s food just in case

Trowel for digging cat holes if necessary Multipurpose tool Trash bag for hauling garbage out Duffle bag of clean clothes left in car that you can change into after ending the trip Notebook with pen/pencil Boating permit picked up at visitor center or park entrance station Fishing gear/permit NationalParksTraveler.com

So Many

, Rivers So Little Time The Upper Delaware Scenic and Recreational River is a favorite with many paddlers / NPS

ithout water, there’d be no paddling or floating, and without the Wild and Scenic Rivers Act we’d be missing, and losing, some incredible landscapes and habitat. It was not-quite 50 years ago that President Lyndon Baines Johnson signed the Wild and Scenic Rivers Act into law. The legislation was driven by such environmental legends as John and Frank Craighead and Olaus Murie, who appreciated and were concerned about the damage that decades of damming, development, and diversion had inflicted on the country’s river systems. The act sought to preserve “certain rivers with outstanding natural, cultural and recreational values in a free-flowing 30

2016 PADDLING GUIDE

condition for the enjoyment of present and future generations.” Under the Act, rivers are classified as wild, scenic, or recreational. Rivers that roll and tumble through the National Park System are wellrepresented on the list of Wild and Scenic Rivers. From Alaska’s remote rivers to streams that weave through the bucolic countryside of Vermont and Wisconsin, each preserves a natural setting as well as part of American history and heritage. The following list focuses on river miles within jurisdiction of the National Park Service. Some designated rivers are longer as segments flow outside units of the National Park System.

Wild River Areas Those rivers or sections of rivers that are free of impoundments and generally inaccessible except by trail, with watersheds or shorelines essentially primitive and waters unpolluted. These represent vestiges of primitive America.

Alatna River, Alaska NPS Unit: Gates of the Arctic National Park and Preserve Classification: 83 miles Wild, 83 miles total

Scenic River Areas Those rivers or sections of rivers that are free of impoundments, with shorelines or watersheds still largely primitive, and shorelines largely undeveloped but accessible in places by roads.

Getting back to the land via the Charley River in Alaska / NPS

John River, Alaska NPS Unit: Gates of the Arctic National Park and Preserve Classification: 52 miles Wild, 52 miles total

Anikchak River, Alaska NPS Unit: Anikchak National Monument and Preserve Classification: 67 miles Wild, 67 miles total

Kern River, California NPS Unit: Sequoia National Park Classification: 27 miles Wild, 27 miles total

Bluestone River, West Virginia NPS Unit: Bluestone National Scenic River Classification: 10 miles Scenic, 10 miles total

Prized for its scenery, the Bluestone River offers limited paddling during the spring runoff / NPS

Charley River, Alaska NPS Unit: Yukon-Charley Rivers National Preserve Classification: 208 miles Wild, 208 miles total Chilikadrotna River, Alaska NPS Unit: Lake Clark National Park and Preserve, Alaska Classification: 11 miles Wild, 11 miles total

Recreational River Areas Those rivers or sections of rivers that are readily accessible by road or railroad, that may have some development along their shorelines, and that may have undergone some impoundment or diversion in the past.

Kings River, California NPS Unit: Kings Canyon National Park Classification: 49 miles Wild, 6.5 miles Recreational, 55.5 miles total

Eightmile River, Connecticut NPS Unit: National Park Service, Northeast Regional Office Classification: 25.3 miles Scenic, 25.3 miles total Farmington River, West Branch, Connecticut NPS Unit: National Park Service, Northeast Regional Office Classification: 14 miles Recreational Flathead River, Montana NPS Unit: Glacier National Park, U.S. Forest Service Classification: 40.7 miles Scenic, 62.6 miles Recreational, 103.3 miles total

Kobuk River, Alaska NPS Unit: Gates of the Arctic National Park and Preserve Classification: 110 miles Wild, 110 miles total Lamprey River, New Hampshire NPS Unit: National Park Service, Northeast Regional Office Classification: 23.5 miles Recreational Lower Delaware River, New Jersey and Pennsylvania NPS Unit: Delaware Water Gap National Recreation Area Classification: 25.4 miles Scenic, 41.9 miles Recreational, 67.3 miles total

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The Kings River in Kings Canyon National Park / Patrick Cone

The â&#x20AC;&#x153;wildâ&#x20AC;? designation is readily apparent for the Noatak River, which drains the largest mountain-ringed river basin in the United States / NPS

Lower St. Croix River, Minnesota and Wisconsin NPS Unit: St. Croix National Scenic Riverway Classification: 12 miles Scenic, 40 miles Recreational, 52 miles total

Missouri River, Nebraska and South Dakota NPS Unit: Missouri National Recreational River Classification: 98 miles Recreational

Maurice River, New Jersey NPS Unit: National Park Service, Northeast Regional Office Classification: 28.9 miles Scenic, 6.5 miles Recreational, 35.4 miles total Merced River, California NPS Unit: Yosemite National Park Classification: 53 miles Wild, 14 miles Scenic, 14 miles Recreational, 81 miles total Middle Delaware River, New Jersey and Pennsylvania NPS Unit: Delaware Water Gap National Recreation Area Classification: 35 miles Scenic, 5 miles Recreational Missisquoi & Trout Rivers, Vermont NPS Unit: National Park Service, Northeast Regional Office Classification: 46.1 miles Recreational

2016 PADDLING GUIDE

Mulchatna River, Alaska NPS Unit: Lake Clark National Park and Preserve Classification: 24 miles Wild Musconetcong River, New Jersey NPS Unit: National Park Service, Northeast Regional Office Classification: 3.5 miles Scenic, 20.7 miles Recreational, 24.2 miles total Noatak River, Alaska NPS Unit: Gates of the Arctic National Park and Preserve and Noatak National Preserve Classification: 330 miles Wild Niobrara River, Nebraska NPS Unit: Niobrara National Scenic River Classification: 68 miles Scenic, 28 miles Recreational, 96 miles total North Fork Koyukuk, Alaska NPS Unit: Gates of The Arctic National Park and Preserve Classification: 102 miles Wild

Running a rapid at Obed Wild and Scenic River and coming out upright is cause for celebration / NPS

Obed River, Tennessee NPS Unit: Obed Wild and Scenic River Classification: 43.3 miles Wild, 2 miles Scenic, 45.3 miles total Rio Grande River, Texas NPS Unit: Big Bend National Park Classification: 95.2 miles Wild, 96 miles Scenic, 191.2 miles total River Styx (Cave Creek), Oregon NPS Unit: Oregon Caves National Monument Classification: 0.4 miles Scenic, 0.4 miles total

St. Croix River, Minnesota and Wisconsin NPS Unit: St. Croix National Scenic Riverway Classification: 181 miles Scenic, 19 miles Recreational, 200 miles total Salmon River, Alaska NPS Unit: Kobuk Valley National Park Classification: 70 miles Wild Snake River Headwaters, Wyoming NPS Unit: Grand Teton and Yellowstone parks Classification: 52.7 miles Wild, 44.1 miles Scenic, 96.8 miles total Sudbury, Assabet, Concord Rivers, Massachusetts NPS Unit: National Park Service, Northeast Regional Office Classification: 14.9 miles Scenic, 14.1 miles Recreational Taunton River, Massachusetts NPS Unit: National Park Service, Northeast Regional Office Classification: 26 miles Scenic, 14 miles Recreational

Tinayguk River, Alaska NPS Unit: Gates of the Arctic National Park and Preserve Classification: 44 miles Wild Tlikakila River, Alaska NPS Unit: Lake Clark National Park and Preserve Classification: 51 miles Wild Tuolumne River, California NPS Unit: Yosemite National Park Classification: 37 miles Wild, 17 miles Scenic, 54 miles total Upper Delaware River, New York and Pennsylvania NPS Unit: Upper Delaware Scenic and Recreational River Classification: 23.1 miles Scenic, 50.3 miles Recreational Virgin River, Utah NPS Unit: Zion National Park, U.S. Bureau of Land Management Classification: 123.6 miles Wild, 11.3 miles Scenic, 12.6 miles Recreational

The Rio Grand Wild and Scenic River will carry you through Big Bend National Park / Rebecca Latson

The Kobuk River carries a “Wild” designation on 110 of its miles / NPS

Wekiva River, Florida NPS Unit: National Park Service, Southeast Regional Office Classification: 31.4 miles Wild, 2.1 miles Scenic, 8.1 miles Recreational White Clay Creek, Delaware and Pennsylvania NPS Unit: National Park Service, Northeast Regional Office Classification: 7.4 miles Scenic, 1.6 miles Recreational Wolf River, Wisconsin NPS Unit: Wolf National Scenic Riverway Classification: 24 miles Scenic *As of January 2015, the National System protects 12,709 miles of 208 rivers in 39 states and the Commonwealth of Puerto Rico; this is less than one-quarter of one percent of the nation’s rivers. By comparison, more than 75,000 large dams across the country have modified at least 600,000 miles, or about 17 percent, of American rivers.

Various sections of the Virgin River are viewed as Wild, Scenic, and Recreational / NPS

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Hub Of A

Red-Rock Playground There’s no better town situated for fun, outdoor adventure, and national parks than Moab, Utah. In fact, it’s the gateway for both Arches and Canyonlands national parks.

his small town of around five thousand was a uranium boom town in the 1950s, but these days it’s all about recreation. And the reasons are obvious: towering red-rock walls, blue skies, and desert rivers. When the evening sun casts its low-slung rays across the landscape, it seems to set it ablaze. Millions of years of erosion have masterfully carved deep canyons, spires, buttes and mesas. Within the boundaries of Arches National Park is the world’s largest collection of rock arches, with more than 2,000 of these stunning features. It’s easy to imagine the recreational possibilities. Just choose a direction.

The Cololorado River upstream of Moab is a popular daily float trip / Western River Expeditions

2016 PADDLING GUIDE

Southeastern Utah’s landscape could be called “spare” for its lack of vegetation, but it’s still spectacular / Western River Expeditions

Thinking of some white water and river running? Then float, raft, or kayak down the Colorado and Green rivers, which meet just downriver from Moab. Want to fit in some mountain biking? This is where the red-rock cycling craze started, and you’ll find some of the world’s best slickrock single track just south of town at the Sand Flats Recreation Area. Cyclists have been challenging themselves here for more than three decades. Need to climb a rock or canyoneer? The two national parks, and the countless acres of surrounding public lands, have sheer walls and deep slot canyons.

And those are just the top three activities here. The national parks have hundreds of miles of trails for day hikers and backcountry explorers. The mileage goes up when you add-in the Manti-La Sal National Forest, whose snow-capped peaks are framed by Delicate Arch in Arches National Park. You don’t have to venture far from your vehicle to enjoy the surroundings. Arches National Park is less than a 15-minute drive from downtown Moab; the park road leads you through the main sandstone wonders. Canyonlands National Park’s Island in the Sky District is a bit farther (about 30 minutes) but there you can catch the sunrise through Mesa Arch, spot the Green River from Green River Overlook, or gaze into Upheaval Dome from the back of Whale Rock. While vacations never seem long enough, go ahead and take a four-day river trip down the Colorado, and through the rapids of Cataract Canyon with Western River Expeditions. Then return by air to Moab for a unique perspective of this canyon-riddled land. And wait, there’s more. Float serenely above the red rocks in a hot air balloon, or climb into the saddle and ride trails John Wayne rode as he scouted movie locations. Whatever your recreational itch, the folks at the Moab Adventure Center can help you scratch it. And at day’s end, while relaxing over dinner and reliving the day, you’ll understand why people proudly affix those “Paris-LondonNew York-Moab” bumper stickers to their rigs.

Traveler’s Essential Paddling Guide To The Parks

Directory How do you wield your paddle? Are you a canoeist, or prefer a kayak, either river or sea? Do you float rivers in rafts? Are you really working on your inner core by launching a Standup Paddle Board for a great workout? Whatever your choice, or choices, there are places, many places, in the National Park System that will meet your watery needs. In the following pages you’ll discover an alphabetical directory of the national parks with recreational paddling opportunities for kayaking, canoeing, rafting, and even SUPing. The list is by no means comprehensive—it will grow along with the park system—but is designed for parks where paddling in some form or fashion is an integral part of the park. So, for instance, Canyonlands National Park in Utah is included since the Green and Colorado Rivers are popular with paddlers and rafters. Fort Sumter National Monument in South Carolina, which is surrounded by water, is not. Parks where rivers are “poached” by paddlers also not listed.

Where individual parks provide hot links to paddling information and authorized outfitters, we’ve provided those links, as well. However, outfitters come and go, so check with the park before choosing a company.

Paddling Information Link NPS-Authorized Outfitters Link

Black Canyon Wilderness at Lake Mead National Recreation Area / NPS

2016 PADDLING GUIDE

Acadia National Park, Maine Good for: Canoes, sea kayaks, SUPs

Assateague Island National Seashore, Maryland/Virginia Good for: Sea kayaks, canoes, SUPs

From fjord-like Somes Sound to rougher seas in Frenchman Bay, this park has access to a wide variety of paddling. You can skim the calm waters of Western Bay, or head inland to one of the park’s ponds or lakes. Alagnak Wild River, Alaska Good for: White-water canoes, river kayaks, rafts The 69-mile-long Alagnak is not a good place for novices. Class III rapids, unique wilderness and prehistoric ruins of village life along the shores make this an epic adventure. Amistad National Recreation Area, Texas Good for: Canoes, sea kayaks, SUPs Texas might not seem like paddling country, but if you look, you can find water. At Amistad NRA there’s a 60,000-acre reservoir perfect for laid-back paddling through coves and canyons. The best time to launch here is the fall and early spring, when the water and air temperatures are comfortable. Anacostia Park, District of Columbia Good for: Canoes, kayaks, SUPs Yes, you can have paddling pretty much out your back door even if you live in the District of Columbia. Anacostia Park offers access to the

You can paddle around Acadia National Park / Rebecca Latson

Stretching along two states, Assateague Island National Seashore is known for its wild horses, but paddlers love it for the solitude it offers. Explore the creeks, channels and the beautiful shoreline with your family and small children, and pitch camp within the dunes. Chincoteague Bay and its islets offer great possibilities for SUPs. Big Bend National Park, Texas Good for: Canoes, kayaks, rafts

tidal Anacostia River, where sculling is all the rage. But it’s also great for kayaks and canoes. Check the tide schedule so the currents can do some of the work for you. Apostle Islands National Lakeshore, Wisconsin Good for: Sea kayaks, canoes, SUPs While ice caves might be the main attraction in winter at Apostle Islands, sea kayaking takes over in summer. Skilled kayakers have 21 islands and 12 miles of mainland coast along the southern shores of Lake Superior to explore. You can paddle past historic lighthouses while keeping a sharp eye for the more than 240 bird species that make Apostle Islands their home during the year. SUPers also are discovering this lakeshore, and the wonders of exploring the sea caves.

Paddling the Rio Grande Wild and Scenic River through Mariscal Canyon in Big Bend National Park can be done in one day, or as an overnight trip / NPS, Jennette Jurado

Share the Rio Grande Wild and Scenic River with herons, green kingfishers, and red-eared slider turtles as you glide through shaded canyons. Hundreds of microclimates in the park create a surprising biodiversity of plants and animals found nowhere else on the planet. Multi-day trips are the perfect answer for how to get away from it all. Big Cypress National Preserve, Florida Good for: Canoes and kayaks Forty-five miles west of Miami, this preserve is a great bet for birding in the winter season. The Turner River Paddling Trail provides for a day-long exploration that can lead you from freshwater to saltwater in a landscape that features both river otters and manatees.

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Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, Colorado Good for: Expert river kayakers

Canyonlands National Park, Utah Good for: Rafts, canoes, kayaks, SUPs, packrafts

The narrow, 2,000-foot-tall walls of the Black Canyon make it hard for the sunshine to reach the Gunnison River far down below. But if you dare to paddle through, know what you’re doing, for the Class V rapids make this a destination for experts. Run the river at your own risk or opt for a pleasant boat tour at the west end of the park on the Blue Mesa Reservoir.

Twisting mazes of colorful canyons and attract hikers at Canyonlands, but the waters of the Green and the Colorado draw canoeists, rafters, kayakers and, yes indeed, SUPs. Paddle for a single day on the Green, or opt for a multi-day trip with time made for hiking into side canyons. The slow current of the Green above the confluence are perfect for canoeists and sea kayaks to explore, and you can arrange for a jet boat shuttle up the Colorado to your takeout. Heading out on a multi-day float trip. Be sure to pack an inflatable SUP or two. Check out our story about a week on the Colorado through Cataract Canyon beginning on page 13. Then join the Traveler and Holiday River Expeditions on a special “Dark Sky” float of the Colorado this fall.

Blackstone River Valley National Historical Park, Massachusetts/ Rhode Island Good for: Canoes, SUPs

Big South Fork National River and Recreation Area / NPS

Big South Fork National River and Recreation Area, Kentucky/Tennessee Good for: River kayaks, white-water canoes World-class paddling lies within the backwoods of Tennessee and Kentucky in the rumpled landscape of Big South Fork National River and Recreation Area. Whether you choose the Big South Fork of the Cumberland River or one of its main tributaries, this park with Class IV rapids won’t disappoint the serious paddler, though it might be too much for the beginner. Big Thicket National Preserve, Texas Good for: Canoes Canoeists have more than 20 miles of calm, free-flowing waters rimmed by Bald cypress and Tupelo trees to explore along Village Creek. The preserve also harbors lakes and bayous worth exploring. Local outfitters offer rentals and shuttle services. Bighorn Canyon National Recreation Area, Montana/Wyoming Good for: Canoes, sea kayaks, SUPs Anglers congregate below the Yellowtail Dam on the sleepy Bighorn River. Steep canyon walls, a 71-mile-long reservoir, and solitude are part of the Bighorn River experience. Biscayne National Park, Florida Good for: Sea kayaks, canoeing, SUPs Space to paddle isn’t hard to find at Biscayne, where more than 95 percent of the national park is covered by water. The protected waters of Biscayne Bay are great for SUPs. Snorkelers and scuba divers also flock here to explore shipwrecks, coral reefs, and colorful fisheries.

2016 PADDLING GUIDE

Though this is a brand new unit of the park system, paddlers have been enjoying the nearly 50 miles of the Blackstone River for years. You can spend a day, or days, paddling the river from Worchester, Massachusetts, and Providence, Rhode Island. Eighteen dams along the waterway present some interesting portages. Blue Ridge Parkway, Virginia/North Carolina Good for: Canoes, SUPs There aren’t many paddling options along the Blue Ridge Parkway, but one is Julian Price Lake at Milepost 297. It’s a perfect spot for a family outing of fishing and paddling. There are 47 acres of aquatic fun—and no motorized boats! Bluestone National Scenic River, West Virginia Good for: Canoes While the New and the Gauley rivers might be better known with paddlers, this scenic beauty that runs through a deep gorge in the Southern Appalachians shouldn’t be overlooked. Paddle here in the springtime when runoff fills the river. Boston Harbor Islands National Recreation Area, Massachusetts Good for: Canoes, sea kayaks, SUPs History, tide pools, fishing, picnicking and paddling are all within a stone’s throw of downtown Boston. Beginning paddlers can check take lessons prior to exploring the 34 islands at this National Recreation Area. Buffalo National River, Arkansas Good for: Canoes Winter and spring months are best to appreciate our country’s first national river. The 135 miles of free rolling river give plenty of opportunity for adventures, fun and, yes, peaceful solitude. Canaveral National Seashore, Florida Good for: Sea kayaks, canoes, SUPs Watch for nesting sea turtles while gliding around this barrier island. Challenge yourself by paddling in the Atlantic Ocean, or play it a bit safer by touring the Indian River or Mosquito Lagoon.

Yes, there are places on the Green River where you can SUP, like here in Canyonlands / Patrick Cone Cape Cod National Seashore, Massachusetts Good for: Canoes, kayaks, SUPs. You won’t find any rivers in the national seashore, but there’s the Atlantic Ocean for experienced sea kayakers and Cape Cod Bay with its calmer waters and marshes to explore for those still honing their skills. Check the park calendar for ranger-led canoe trips at Salt Pond. Captain John Smith Chesapeake National Historic Trail, Virginia/Maryland/Delaware/Pennsylvania/ District of Columbia Good for: Canoes, kayaks, SUPs Explorers have been enjoying and mapping the bay for more than 400 years. With more than 2,000 miles of shoreline, the bay offers opportunities for canoeists, kayakers, sailers, and SUPs. For help in navigating the area, download the Chesapeake Explorer app.

Cape Hatteras National Seashore, North Carolina Good for: Sea kayaks, canoes, SUPs There’s a reason Cape Hatteras has a history as the “Graveyard of the Atlantic,” what with more than 1,000 ships that went down as the result of warfare, weather, and sand bars. Pamlico Sound gives some protection for sea kayakers, canoeists, and SUPs. Cape Krusenstern National Monument, Alaska Good for: Sea kayaks Though one of the least-visited units of the National Park System, Cape Krusentern holds something for paddlers. Here you can test yourself in the Arctic Ocean north of the Arctic Circle, or along one of the monument’s protected lagoons. Cape Lookout National Seashore, North Carolina Good for: Sea kayaks, canoes, SUPs This national seashore is a perfect setting for an early morning paddle, or an adventure that can last a week or even longer. Relax on the relatively calm waters of Core and Back sounds, or circumnavigate the barrier islands with nights spent camped in the dunes with fresh fish over the fire. Channel Islands National Park, California Good for: Sea kayaks Travel from Los Angeles to the Channel Islands by ferry or helicopter, and once there, explore the watery backcountry of the National Park System. Take a kayak adventure, and remember to bring your snorkeling gear or hiking shoes for a cross-training experience. Plan to spend a night, as Patrick Cone. His story begins on page 18.

Cumberland Island National Seashore, Georgia Good for: Sea kayaks, canoes, SUPs Bugs can be a major distraction during the summer months, so if you head to this national seashore consider the shoulder seasons. Chat with a ranger to find out how to plan an overnight paddling adventure with backcountry camps in the seashore’s official wilderness. Cumberland Sound and Cumberland River offer protection from the Atlantic. Curecanti National Recreation Area, Colorado Good for: Canoes, kayaks, SUPs Three reservoirs along the Gunnison River offer different experiences for paddlers. Though Morrow Point Reservoir presents the best backcountry adventure for canoeists and kayakers, you need to haul your gear down, and then back up, 232 steps. Delaware & Leigh National Heritage Corridor, Pennsylvania Good for: Canoes, kayaks Fall, with the colorful surroundings of the region’s hardwood forests, is a gorgeous season to float, though the river might be “bony.” Come in June for the Wyoming Valley RiverFest. Delaware Water Gap National Recreation Area, New Jersey/Pennsylvania Good for: Canoes, kayaks, SUPs A variety of paddling experiences can be found within this NRA that straddles the New Jersey-Pennsylvania border. Canoe, kayak, or raft for one day, or several, along 40 miles of the

Middle Delaware Scenic and Recreational River that is embraced by the large Water Gap NRA. Denali National Park and Preserve Good for: Rafting, packraft “Denali’s backcountry offers many possibilities for combining a day or overnight hike with packrafting. While there are many opportunities for beginners, the hazards and risks of any whitewater travel are great,” the park’s website says. “You are responsible for understanding these risks and acquiring the skill and experience to be self-reliant. “Remember to be flexible with your itinerary, as any overnight trip is subject to the availability of the unit quota system. River conditions change quickly and often, so it is rare that we will know current water levels, but the backcountry ranger staff can provide general information on possible routes.” Dinosaur National Monument, Colorado/Utah Good for: Rafts, white-water kayaks, white-water canoes Dinosaur gained fame for its fossil trove, but river wonders love it for the Green and Yampa. These two rivers offer multi-day trips. The Green River slices through sedimentary layers full of marine fossils, while the Yampa flows through a landscape of soaring sandstone cliffs before joining the Green. After early July, flows through the Yampa drop, making the river easier for canoeists to navigate, but too shallow for most rafts. Explore the Green River this June with the Traveler and Holiday River Expeditions.

Chattahoochee River National Recreation Area, Georgia Good for: Canoes, kayaks, SUPs You’re not paddling through wilderness, but the 48 miles of the Chattahoochee make an after-work or early morning paddle possible. It’s a great place to introduce family and friends to paddling. Chesapeake & Ohio Canal National Historical Park, District of Columbia/Maryland/West Virginia Good for: Canoes, SUPs Paddling the entire 184.5 miles of this American wonder of commerce is not encouraged these days, but there are several small stretches where you can enjoy an outing built around history, bird watching, and nature. Chickasaw National Recreation Area, Oklahoma Good for: Canoes, SUPs If you don’t mind paddling waters with powerboats, then head for Lake of the Arbuckles, which covers more than 2,300 acres. If you want a calmer experience, head for Veterans Lake, a smaller reservoir created in the 1930s.

The Yampa River, though overshadowed by the Green next door, can pack a wallop in places / Patrick Cone

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Dry Tortugas National Park, Florida Good for: Sea kayaks, SUPs Late winter—when nesting birds descend on this park—is an excellent time to paddle Dry Tortugas. But any time of year is captivating. Just remember to bring your snorkeling or diving gear. Ebey’s Landing National Historical Reserve, Washington Good for: Sea kayaking Bring your foul weather gear to this surprising historical park that offers wonderful kayaking in Penn Cove, with the possibility of heading into Puget Sound, Admiralty Bay, and Saratoga Passage. On shore explore military history at two state parks associated with this unit of the park system.

Gauley River National Recreation Area, West Virginia Good for: Rafts, white-water kayaks

Grand Teton National Park, Wyoming Good for: Sea kayaks, canoes, SUPs, rafts

Though the peak season is just six weeks long, the Gauley River is on every serious paddler’s mind. The 25 miles of river are run in one day, and you’ll lose count of the rapids that can reach Class VI in size.

Bald eagles, bison and antelope line the shores, eagles, hawks and osprey overhead. Oh, and America’s Matterhorn ever-present on the horizon. Head out for several days in a canoe or touring kayak on Jackson Lake, or spend a scenic float trip down the Snake River. Want to explore Jackson Lake by sea kayak? Join the Traveler and O.A.R.S. for a three-day trip this July.

Glacier National Park, Montana Good for: Canoes, sea kayaks, SUPs Glacier is a hiker’s paradise, and a day paddler’s joy. Canoeists and touring kayakers can choose from Lake McDonald, St. Mary Lake, Swiftcurrent Lake, or a handful of other lakes. Whitewater runs are made down the Flathead River that marks the park’s western border.

Erie Canalway National Heritage Corridor, New York Good for: Canoes, kayaks Looking for a long-distance paddle? More than 500 miles of interconnected canals, rivers, and lakes await you in this canalway.

Fire Island National Seashore, New York Good for: Sea kayaks, canoes, SUPs Enjoy the only official wilderness area in New York state while paddling about this national seashore. Experienced paddlers enjoy day trips in Great South Bay. Or, reserve some sites in the Otis Pike Fire Island High Dune Wilderness to fashion a multi-day adventure. Watch out for poison ivy along the shores. Gates of the Arctic National Park and Preserve, Alaska Good for: Sea kayaks, white-water canoes, rafts, packrafting

Kayakers heading deep into the Beardslee Islands of Glacier Bay National Park need to go fully prepared / NPS

Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve, Alaska Good for: Sea kayaks Start off from Bartlett Cove, or arrange a ferry up the 65-mile-long main bay, for a drop-off to start your adventure of a lifetime. With a properly packed kayak, and the requisite skills, you can disappear into the arms of Glacier Bay for weeks. Just be sure to study the tide charts. Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, Utah/Arizona Good for: Sea kayaks, canoes, SUPs

Arrive by floatplane for the true wilderness adventure, with trips on lakes or down rivers through glacially carved canyons. The upper stretches of the John River can offer a Class IIIII float at high water; the lower reaches make an excellent family float.

No need to choose either water or red-rock scenery, for both exist in ample quantities in this NRA in southern Utah. Paddle among the red-rock cliffs and into Lake Powell; it’s a memory you won’t erase from your mind. This can be a great area for SUPing. Get a glimpse of the possibilities through Colleen Miniuk-Sperry’s story beginning on page 5.

Gateway National Recreation Area, New York/New Jersey Good for: Sea kayaks, canoes, SUPs

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona Good for: White-water kayaks, rafts, packraft

There’s wonderful paddling right in the heart of the New Jersey-New York metropolitan area. The Jamaica Bay Unit has paddlers in mind, with seven launch ramps. At Great Kills in the Staten Island Unit, you’ll find a seasonal kayaking program. Paddling also is popular at Horseshoe Cove in the Sandy Hook Unit.

Gaze up along the cliff walls of this mile-deep canyon and forget about the outside world for a while. There is no finer river experience in the Lower 48 than a two-week run through the Grand Canyon on the Colorado River. This is where you really come to appreciate “river time.”

2016 PADDLING GUIDE

Yes, New Jersey has some good paddling outside of Delaware Water Gap. A good slice of it can be found in the Pinelands Reserve and seven counties in the southern end of the state. There you’ll find this 129-mile-long river. Canoeing is best along the 22 miles between Penny Pot County Park and Atlantic County Park at Lake Lenape. Carnivorous plants, orchids and pygmy Pines line the shores. Great Falls Park, Virginia Good for: White-water kayaks, white-water canoes

Everglades National Park, Florida Good for: Sea kayaks, canoes, SUPs The largest protected mangrove forest in the Western Hemisphere is here in the Everglades. Winter months are the high season for paddling, due to the somewhat cooler, less buggy weather. You can go for a few hours, or stay out for a week, in the River of Grass with its many streams, sloughs, and bays.

Great Egg Harbor National Scenic and Recreational River, New Jersey Good for: Canoeing, SUPs

Experienced kayakers and whitewater canoeists test themselves against the Class II-VI rapids below these historic falls where the Potomac River leaps, jumps, and launches itself through rapids. Gulf Islands National Seashore, Florida/Mississippi Good for: Sea kayaks, canoes, SUPs You have islands in the Gulf of Mexico to explore, or stick closer to the mainland with a trip down the Blueway trail for canoes and kayaks at the Perdido Key Area. This 5.5-mile trail leads you past a 19th-century fort and through rich birding areas. Horseshoe Bend National Military Park, Alabama Good for: Canoes Yes, military parks have streams open to paddlers. In fact, more than 15,000 paddlers a year glide along the Tallapoosa River through this national military park, where 1814 battle between General Andrew Johnson’s 3,300 troops and 1,100 Red Stick Creek warriors was waged. Indiana Dunes National Lakeshore, Indiana Good for: Sea kayaks The waters and shoreline of this lakeshore comprise a key 15-mile segment of the Southern Lake Michigan Water Trail, a paddling route that traverses the 40+ miles between Chicago, Illinois, and Michigan City, Indiana

Lake Clark National Park and Preserve, Alaska Good for: Sea kayaks, canoes, white-water canoes There are no roads here, so you’ll need a bush pilot to give you a lift. Lake Clark is the main attraction of this Alaskan gem, but there are many other lakes and rivers to explore with your paddle. Lake Mead National Recreation Area, Nevada Good for: Sea kayaks, canoes, SUPs

Launching into Lake Michigan at Indiana Dunes National Lakeshore can be tricky / NPS

Isle Royale National Park, Michigan Good for: Sea kayaks, canoes You’ll need some paddling skill since Lake Superior’s waters can get turbulent, plus you must be self-sufficient to enjoy the true wilderness of Isle Royale National Park. The payoffs including laughing loons, moose and, possibly, howling wolves. Katmai National Park and Preserve, Alaska Good for: Sea kayaks, packraft There are, quite literally, hundreds of miles of water trail to explore in Katmai. Naknek Lake, encompassing more than 150,000 acres, provides access to Bay of Islands, Brooks Camp, Fure’s Cabin, Iliuk Arm, and the 86-mile Savonoski Loop, which takes about 10 days to paddle. Kenai Fjords National Park and Preserve, Alaska Good for: Sea kayaks, packraft

Figure out where to paddle here by picking up one of the park’s “self-guided” adventure maps. You can explore mile after mile after mile of cove-sculpted shorelines of both Lake Mead and Lake Mohave, or seek out the Black Canyon Water Trail. Lake Meredith National Recreation Area, Texas Good for: Canoes, kayaks, SUPs Even with historically low water levels, the Canadian River that fills the NRA offers enough water for canoeists and kayakers in the windswept plains of the Texas Panhandle. Lake Roosevelt National Recreation Area, Washington Good for: Sea kayaks, canoes, SUPs Enjoy dozens of options along this 130-milelong lake created by the damming of the Columbia River in eastern Washington. Multipleday paddling trips are common here, but study the regulations about the Leave No Trace camps. Lassen Volcanic National Park, California Good for: Canoes, SUPs The “Peak” is the main point of visiting Lassen, but there are paddling opportunities in this wild area named after a volcano. Manzanita, Butte, and Juniper lakes all are open

to canoeists and kayakers. Kayak rentals can be arranged at the camp store at Manzanita Lake. Lewis & Clark National Historic Trail, Idaho/Illinois/Iowa/Missouri/Montana/Nebraska/ North Dakota/Oregon/South Dakota/Washington Good for: Canoes This historic trail spans 10 states, and does have some paddling opportunities. Head to the Wild and Scenic Upper Missouri River in Montana, or you can tie into the Northwest Discovery Water Trail in Idaho and Oregon. Mammoth Cave National Park, Kentucky Good for: Canoes You have one huge cave, and two meandering rivers, to choose from at Mammath Cave. Emerge from the underground wonders and paddle either the Green or Nolin rivers, for a day or a few days. Mississippi National River and Recreation Area, Minnesota Good for: Canoes, kayaks, SUPs Hate roadway congestion? Grab your canoe or kayak and paddles and head onto this river, which flows through downtown Minneapolis. Missouri National Recreational River, South Dakota/Nebraska Good for: Canoes, kayaks, SUPs Close your eyes as you drift, and listen to the currents and birds. Although the untamed West no longer exists, you can get a sense of it while paddling down this national recreational river. Natchez Trace Parkway, Alabama/Mississippi/Tennessee Good for: Canoes, kayaks The Trace today is a roadway, but some 200 years ago it was a footpath, one that required a ferry crossing or two. Stop at Milepost 327.3

Experience, and good rain gear, are important at Kenai Fjords, as wind and rain are common. If you’re up for a soggy challenge, learn how to land in the surf. Kobuk Valley National Park, Alaska Good for: Kayaks, white-water canoes Kobuk Valley National Park is another unit where experience is mandatory for paddling excursions. Come prepared for solitude in Kobuk Valley since there are no services available. The 61-mile stretch of the meandering Kobuk River is best handled in a kayak or collapsible canoe due to shallows. Lake Chelan, North Cascades National Park, Washington Good for: Canoes, SUPs, sea kayaks. Climbers of mountains are familiar with the North Cascades, but what about paddlers? Lake Chelan, part of the North Cascades National Park Complex, offers a limited number of backcountry, paddle-in campsites you can reserve. Kayakers and skilled canoers can tackle the Kobuk River in Kobuk Valley National Park / NPS

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and you’ll see where George Colbert operated a ferry in the early 1800s. You’ll also find a spot to launch your canoe or kayak into the Tennessee River. New Jersey Pinelands National Reserve, New Jersey Good for: Canoes, SUPs Canoeists have long paddled the Mullica, Batsto, Wading and Oswego rivers in the country’s first national reserve. The Great Egg Harbor National Scenic and Recreational River also flows through here. New River Gorge National River, West Virginia Good for: Rafts, white-water kayaks, white-water canoes Rapids known as Double Z, Greyhound Bus Stopper. and Upper, Middle, and Lower Keeney have been attracting paddlers since before the designation of New River Gorge National River in 1978. And for good reason, as those who have paddled it know. Niobrara National Scenic River, Nebraska Good for: Canoes, SUPs As it flows across Nebraska, this river will float you pass both rolling hills and cliffs, with some waterfalls tossed in for good measure. Born in Wyoming and continually fed by springs, you can float 76 miles of the Niobrara in the park system.

Noatak National Preserve, Alaska Good for: Kayaks, white-water canoes, rafts With nearly 300 miles of river to explore, you need to set aside a few weeks for this trip. The wild and scenic Noatak River has its headwaters near the Gates of the Arctic National Park and runs all the way to Kotzebue Sound. Have a bush pilot drop you off and pick you up anywhere along the way. North Cascades National Park Complex, Washington State Good for: Sea kayaks, canoes, SUPS, rafts Long, slender lakes (Diablo and Ross) as well as flowing rivers (Skagit and Stehekin) are open to paddlers and rafters. Obed National Wild and Scenic River, Tennessee Good for: River kayaks, white-water canoes Standing waves in the Obed River can climb to 10 feet. Sometimes overlooked by paddlers, expert whitewater paddlers are either wellfamiliar with this unit of the National Park System, or should be. Ozark National Scenic Riverways, Missouri Good for: Canoes, kayaks This waterway, built around two rivers, threads through the Ozarks. The 130 miles of river split between the Jacks Fork and Current rivers are an excellent choice for

canoeists in search of a multi-day exploration. Summer months can be raucous, so you might aim for the fall shoulder season. Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore, Michigan Good for: Sea kayaks, SUPs, canoes There are the challenging waters of Lake Superior to contend with, or you can head inland to the lakes within the 11,740-acre Beaver Basin Wilderness. Beaver Lake, at 762 acres, is the largest. Point Reyes National Seashore, California Good for: Sea kayaks, SUPs Kayakers can explore Drakes Estero and Limantour Estero from July 1 through February 28 after the harbor seal pupping season. Year-round, Tomales Bay, a 15-mile stretch of water protected from the Pacific Ocean by the seashore’s main landmass, is perhaps the most popular paddling area here. Potomac Heritage National Scenic Trail, District of Columbia, Maryland, Pennsylvania, Virginia Good for: Canoes More than 400 miles of paddling along two water trails of the Youghiogheny River and Potomac River, makes a perfect tie-in to the Captain John Smith Chesapeake National Historic Trail and the Chesapeake and Ohio Canal National Historical Park. Some areas feature whitewater, so plan carefully.

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Not be overlooked by canoeists is the Niobrara National Scenic River in Nebraska / NPS

Redwood National and State Parks, California Good for: Canoes, kayaks Adventure and challenges exist in abundance along the coastal waters studded with sea stacks, protected lagoons, and inland streams such as the Klamath River and Redwood Creek. During the summer months, inquire about ranger-led paddles down the Smith River.

Lewis Lake can be used for a day paddle in Yellowstone National Park, or to access the backcountry of Shoshone Lake / Kurt Repanshek

Rio Grande Wild and Scenic River, Texas Good for: Canoes, kayaks, rafts The Rio Grande Wild and Scenic River meanders 196 miles along the U.S.-Mexican border, much of it through Big Bend. Float the whole thing, or take a 1-3-day trip on the river through Santa Elena Canyon. Saint Croix National Scenic Riverway, Wisconsin/Minnesota Good for: Canoes, kayaks Take a day paddle or an extended trip along the St. Croix and the Namekagon Rivers. Check the park website for details on camping options and regulations. Salt River Bay National Historic Park and Ecological Preserve, Virgin Islands Good for: Sea kayaks, SUPs Sea kayak in the warm Caribbean waters among majestic mangrove stands. For information, contact the Virgin Islands Department of Tourism at 340-773-0495 or St. Croix Chamber of Commerce at 340-733-1435 for more information. Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore, Michigan Good for: Sea kayaks, kayaks, canoes Take your pick here, with either a warm, lazy Platte River paddle, or the cold, challenges of Lake Michigan. The Platte River bends and meanders through thick forest, while Lake Michigan paddlers enjoy views of 500-foot high bluffs. Theodore Roosevelt National Park, North Dakota Good for: Canoes Time your trip carefully since low water could mean more walking than paddling. Badlands stretch in all directions as you work your way down the Little Missouri River through Theodore Roosevelt National Park. Timucuan Ecological and Historic Preserve, Florida Good for: Kayaks, canoes With 6,000 years of human history, this waterway was established to protect the last unspoiled coastal wetlands on the Atlantic Coast. Timucuan has some great paddling opportunities in the St. John River. Extended paddles can take you into the Florida Sea Islands Paddling Trail.

Upper Delaware Scenic and Recreational River, New York/Pennsylvania Good for: Kayaks, canoes Class I-II rapids are the perfect challenge for canoeists and kayakers looking to expand their skill range. This stretch of the Delaware offers the longest, free-flowing river remaining in the Northeast. Virgin Islands National Park, U.S. Virgin Islands Good for: Sea kayaks, SUPs Surrounded by warm, turquoise water, it’s not difficult to find a spot to launch a sea kayak in this national park. If you need a rental, stop at Cinnamon Bay where the concessionaire can set you up. Voyageurs National Park, Minnesota Good for: Canoes, sea kayaks, SUPs With so much water, your biggest problem might be deciding where to paddle. There’s Rainy Lake, Kabetogama Lake, Namakan Lake, or Sand Point Lake, for example. Paddle the large Rainy Lake, or string together some backcountry lakes with a few portages. Whiskeytown National Recreation Area, California Good for: Canoes, kayaks Watch for the ranger-led kayak programs, particularly the moonlight paddle. The cool waters of Whiskeytown Lake are a magnet for canoeists and kayakers come the hot summer months.

Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve, Alaska Good for: Rafts, white-water kayaks, white-water canoes, packraft In the largest park in the system, there are a handful of big rivers for your paddling adventure. The Nizina, Kennicott, Chitna, Nabesna and White rivers will test your wilderness and paddling skills. Here, as the park notes, you can “travel for days at a time without seeing another person, trail, sign or bridge.” Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming/Montana/Idaho Good for: Canoes, sea kayaks, SUPs Lakes—Yellowstone, Shoshone, and Lewis— are the paddling attraction in Yellowstone, and they don’t disappoint. Yellowstone Lake is a wonderfully remote and wild backcountry paddling experience, while Shoshone offers your own private geyser basin to explore. Yukon-Charley Rivers National Preserve, Alaska Good for: Rafts, white-water kayaks, white-water canoes The Yukon and the Charley rivers give paddlers solitude for their 200 combined miles as they flow through the preserve. Perfect for rafters and experienced whitewater canoeists. Don’t forget mosquito repellant.

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