-ALL ABOUTBAKED POTATOES

Baking potatoes is· so easy that you probably never think about it except in terms of possible stuffings. However, as is usual with simple dishes, details make all the difference.

For a soft, crumbly interior, you need floury potatoes. In supermarkets, potatoes are usually labelled with the variety and the uses for which they are suitable, but at greengrocers' they may not be labelled atall. The kinds to choose at different times of the year are: Maris Bard and Spunta (June and July); Estima, Marfona, Wilja (August-March); Cara, Desiree, Golden Wonder, Kerr's Pink, Maris Piper, Pentland Crown, Pentland Dell, Pentland Squire and Romano (September-May).

If the potato is to be served with something else, a 6-8 ozl 190-250 g one is large enough for one person, but if it is to be a whole meal. 14 oz-I Ib/440-500 g is the weight to buy.

To prepare the potatoes, scrub them and pare off any green patches, where chlorophyll has formed as a result of exposure to light and which are toxic, and cut out eyes and sprouts (cutting the skin will not spoil them when baked, as a crisp crust will form). Pricking with a fork or skewer to prevent the skin bursting is generally recommended, although in my ex- perience hardly necessary, as this very seldom happens. You can bake them just as they are, but if you want a crisp, brown skin paint them with oil (if you have no pastry-brush, rub them with oiled greaseproofpaper). Lay the potatoesa little apart on a baking-sheet covered with aluminium foil and bake in a preheated oven at 400°F, 200°C, Gas Mark 6, or 425°F, 220°C, Gas Mark 7, for 50-60 minutes for8 ozl250 g potatoes, orfor 1 1/4- 1 '12 hours for those weighing about 1 Ib/500 g; the higher oven heat will save about 5 minutes for the smaller size, 10 minutes for the larger. They can also be cooked at a lower heat: at 350°F, 180°C, Gas Mark 4, 8 ozl250 g potatoes will takeabout 1 1/2 hours. They are cooked when soft all the way through: test with a skewer or sharp knife.

It would be possible to fill a separate book with suggestions for stuffings, and anyway everyone has their own favourites. However, as in my view part ofthe attraction of baked potatoes is that they are a lazy option, I have given just a few fairly simple ones.

• CREAMY GORGONZOLA·

Potato

This does not taste strongly of Gorgonzola but the cheese gives the potato an unexpectedly melting, creamy texture. Do not forget the nutmeg, which is especially effective with Gorgonzola. Allow an extra 20 minutes for baking the filling after the potato is cooked.

Serve with watercress or chicory and watercress. For I.

• INGREDIENTS.

1 baking potato weighing about 1 Ib/500 g

A little oil

3 oz/90 g Gorgonzola cheese

2 tablespoons milk

Nutmeg

Small baking-sheet

WHEN YOU'RE REALLY BROKE

- METHOD-

Paint the potato lightly with oil and bake as described opposite; do not tum offthe oven when it is ready. Halve it lengthways as soon as it is cool enough to handle. Scoop out the flesh. leaving a margin of about '12 inchlI cm next to the skin. Mash the Gorgonzola with a fork. add to the potato flesh with the milk and beat smooth. Pile back into the skins (there will be almost too much) and grate a generous sprinkling of nutmeg over the top. Return to the oven and bake for 20 minutes or until showing signs of browning.