Mafia Fashion

Best Costume Design!

Godfather II & More

MAFIA FASHION JAZZ AGE

Secrets to

INSTANT RESPECT

New Trends You Can Wear Now!

HAIR STYLISTS REVEAL How Sleek Hair Really Makes You Look So Good

STYLES THAT KILL!

Find the Best Suit for Your Body!

Al Capone’s Class Act!

JANUARY 2013 MAFIAFASHION.COM MAFIA FASHION

Plus

KRISTEN GREENE ITALIAN CINEMA JANUARY 25, 2013

MAFIA FASHION

January

COVER STORIES

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Cool Classy Costumes: Best Costume Design Winners & Nominees Find out which Mafia movies have the best costumes

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Secrets to Instant Respect Items that will make people think you are an A-List member of the Mafia

5 7 10 11

Jazz Age: New Trends You Can Wear Now The hottest accessories that make your look to die for Al Capone’s Class Act Learn how the nation’s most infamous gangster became the classiest man in town Styles that Kill: Find the Best Suit for Your Body How to look your best when roaming the city streets Hair Stylists Reveal: How Sleek Hair Really Makes You Look So Good Complete your Mafia look from head to toe with these hair tips

FEATURE STORIES

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Who Wore It Better?

Readers judge which Mafia phenomenon wore the newsboy/golfer hat best

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Dressing for Success Learn the psychology behind why looking good is so important

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Fashion Do’s and Don’ts: Dressing for the Rise and the Fall How to dress to make sure you always stay on top

Cited 12 Works See what wonderful sources

were used during this project

H

Goodfellas

ere are award nominees for Best Costume Design. The winners are marked with an astrisk (*).

Academy Award Nominees

Theadora Van Runkle

Costume Designer for Godfather II

COOL CLASSY COSTUMES “Ultimate Gangster/Crime Film Site: Academy Awards (1990-present).” Ultimate Gangster/

Crime Film Site: Academy Awards (1990-present). N.p., n.d.

Web. 21 Jan. 2013.

Wikipedia. Wikimedia Foundation, n.d. Web. 21 Jan. 2013.

The Rise and Fall of Legs Diamond, Howard Shoup (1960) Bonnie and Clyde, Theadora Van Runkle (1967) The Godfather, Anna Hill Johnstone (1972) *The Sting, Edith Head (1973) *The Godfather Part II, Theadora Van Runkle (1974) Prizzi’s Honor, Richard Condon and Janet Roach (1986) The Untouchables, Marilyn Vance-Straker (1987) Harlem Nights, Joe I. Tompkins (1989) Dick Tracy, Milena Canonero (1990) *Bugsy, Albert Wolsky (1992) Bullets Over Broadway, Jeffrey Kurland (1994)

BAFTA Nominees The Godfather, Anna Hill Johnstone (1972)

British Academy Film Award Nominees *Goodfellas, Richard Bruno (1990)

David Di Donatello Award

*I Cento Passi (One Hundred Steps), Elisabetta Montaldo (2000) Academy Award for Best Costume Design

In this photo, you see the costume Elisabetta Montaldo designed for I Cento Passi’s lead character, Peppino

Edith Head’s sketches of The Sting’s Academy Award Winning Costumes

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Who Wore It Better?

Belinsky, Fred. “Iconic Hats: Newsboy Hats and Ivy Hats.” ‘Hat Blog’ N.p., n.d. Web. 21 Jan. 2013.

We asked our readers to vote on who wore the newsboy/golfer hat the best. The contestants were Nino Badalamenti from Mafioso, Vito Coreleone from The Godfather and Joe from Donnie Brasco.

Nino from Mafioso

Vito from The Godfather

42%

38%

Joe from Donnie Brasco

19%

The winner of our Who Wore It Better? competition this month is Nino Badalamenti from Mafioso because readers like his classic use of the newsboy hat. Historically, the working class, in specific, factory workers, construction workers and laborers, wore the newsboy hat because it is the most inexpensive hat. However, people often distinguished themselves from other members of the working class by using different fabrics and colors that represented their wealth. Nino, Vito and Jonnie all wear this hat when they are either performing jobs in the working class, or have small/lower-ranked roles in the Mafia.

Nino is the most successful in wearing the newsboy hat because he captures the true essence of the working class. Nino is proud of his factory job in Milan, and satisfied with his small role in the Mafia as a messenger — true to the newsboy style.

White Suit

If you want to get respect, make a statement in a white suit. In this attire you will instantly show people how wealthy and powerful you are because it is expensive and difficult to keep a white suit clean.

Secrets to Instant Respect

Peacock, John. Fashion Accessories: The Complete 20th Century Sourcebook. New York: Thames & Hudson, 2000. Print.

t

942 Ha

1929-1

1914-1928 Shoes

e

1914-1928 Ti

JAZZ AGE

New Trends You Can Wear N

ow!

1914-1928 Gloves 1929-1942 Gloves

942 Tie

1929-1

1929-1942

1914-1928

Shoes

Hat

Wristwatch

Cigars

Retire your pocket watch and move up in the world with the newest fad — wristwatches. Developed in the early part of the 1930s, having this wristwatch allows you to drive, travel and play sports. A wristwatch with a more rectangular shape will be more sleek and modern.

The more expensive the cigar the more prestigious you are.

Hill, Daniel D. American Menswear: From the Civil War to the Twenty-First Century.Lubbock, Texas: Texas Tech UP, 2011. Print.

Blackman, Cally. The 20s & 30s Flappers & Vamps (20th Century Fashion). Milwaukee: Gareth Stevens, 1999. Print.

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C Al P O N

Underneath his cool violent demeanor, this well-renowned Mafia leader is a fashion guru, ready to share his look with the world.

“Even 70 years after his death people still talk of Al Capone as a stylish gangster in the era of stylish gangsters” (1920s and 1930s Gangster Suits: “Classic” Mens Fashion.).

C

apone is a deadly rival both in life and in fashion. His gang alone shot seven men from a rival Chicago gang in the 1929 St. Valentine’s Day Massacre.

But you better bet that when Capone made his hit, he was decked out in one of his custom, top-of-the-line suits.

During the 1930s, the best suits would cost $85, which is equivalent to more than $1,000 today. Capone would have 20 custom suits made at roughly $135 apiece.

This means that Capone spent approximately $35,000 in suits, and that price does not include all of the accessories he wears to complete his ensemble.

It is difficult to spend the same kind of money Capone spent on his suits, but you can emulate his fashion

style. Though patterns and bolder colors were becoming popular in the 1930s, Capone typically stuck to solid color suits in hues of blue, brown or grey. The suit has to be a light fabric, and the outfit is best completed with frilly accessories. Robert Schoenberg describes one of the suits Al Capone would wear and the accessories he would add to it.

To this suit he would add a Raccoon coat, matching silk tie and handkerchief, a canary yellow or green silk shirt, Italian glove silk undies, a cream colored borsalino wide-brimmed hat, a big black cigar, and of course his $50,000 11.5-carat Jagerfontein diamond ring.

So there you have it. If you want to dress like Capone and earn his street cred as a top-notch Mafia leader in “business” and in fashion, you have to be decked out in the

finest quality of clothes — from your underwear to your hat.

“1920s and 1930s Gangster Suits: “Classic” Mens Fashion.” 1920s and 1930s Gangster Suits. N.p., n.d. Web. 21 Jan. 2013.

Blackman, Cally. The 20s & 30s Flappers & Vamps (20th Century Fashion). Milwaukee: Gareth Stevens, 1999. Print.

“Inflation Calculator.” DollarTimes.com. N.p., n.d.

Web. 22 Jan. 2013.

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H

DRESS FOR SUCCESS respect, so they want their clothes to reflect that identity. By buying expensive suits and accessories, members of the Mafia feel like they

ow you dress holds have established their legitimacy

more meaning both as American citizens and as

than just looking wealthy men. good. Fashion is representative In this business, you fail of your social class, status and without the respect of others, and identity, and can be a tool used to wearing expensive suits not only transcend symbolic boundaries. gives people the perception that

The fact that clothing is disrespecting you could end in one of the most visible forms of a terrible fate, but it makes you consumption makes clothing an feel empowered and respectable. easy way for people to feel like That is why it is important for all they have risen in the world and members of the Mafia, including accomplished many of their goals. lower-ranked members, to look “Immigrants divested themselves good in order to impress members of their traditional clothing as of “the Family” and intimidate soon as they arrived, using clothes anyone outside of the Mafia — a as a means of discarding their concept we see portrayed in the previous identities and establishing film Donnie Brasco. Understanding new ones” (Crane 5). In addition, the psychology behind clothes members of the lower class would allows us to fully appreciate the role do their best to emulate the fashion plays in the actual Mafia fashions predetermined by the and in Hollywood’s portrayal of the upper class in order to gain a higher Mafia. status.

The idea of class that is associated with clothing is a prominent reason in the Mafia’s *Usually a lack of tie signifies that the character is at home. attraction to expensive suits. *The fedora represents that character’s role “as the dis “Clothes as artifacts ‘create’ behavior through their capacity penser of ‘true justice’” (Munich 58), to impose social identities and *Pinstriped suits may symbolize professionalism depending empower people to assert latent on the context of the scene social identities” (Crane 2). Leaders *A coat, if not used in a practical setting, may symbolize of the Mafia identify themselves the past that cannot be escaped as powerful, family-oriented businessmen who are deserving of

SYMBOLISM OF CLOTHES

Crane, Diana. Fashion and Its Social Agendas: Class, Gender, and Identity in Clothing. Chicago: University of Chicago, 2000. Print.

Munich, Adrienne. Fashion in Film.

Bloomington: Indiana UP, 2011. Print.

When Vito dies, he not only fits Hollywood’s clothing description, but he dies peacefully at home knowing that his legacy lives on in his son, Michael, and his grandson.

In contrast, Tony’s demise is not nearly as ideal. Tony is wearing a tattered tuxedo that resembles the kind of outfit Hollywood puts their villains in — a “black, short-jacketed tuxedo, plaid bowtie, white gloves, and walking stick”

In Mafia movies it can be (Munich 59). In addition, Tony difficult to distinguish the hero dies, after losing everyone he loves, by being shot multiple from the villain since everyone is killing everyone, but using this times by the police. formula helps you distinguish The Rise v. The Fall who the heroes are. Many of

In this magazine, we the Mafia leaders, such as Vito discuss many ways for gangsters Coreleone, seek power and to dress well. If you follow all respect as opposed to wealth; of the tips we have given in this however, leaders, such as Tony in Scarface, become too carried magazine then you will imitate the rise and success of Mafia away with the wealth they are receiving and too greedy, leading leaders in film. That means slick your hair back, purchase to their demise. expensive custom fitting suits,

I think the argument and show your wealth through that Hollywood paints Vito as tasteful accessories — not gaudy a hero and Tony as a Villain is items. seen in both their clothes and

Hollywood is not kind to in the way these leaders fall. At people who don’t follow these the end of The Godfather, Vito is wearing a simple suit aligned rules. In almost every Mafia with Hollywood’s description of movie, the fall of the gangster is represented by crazy, unkempt what heroes wear. “The fantasy of the Hollywood screen version hair, dirty or tattered suits, and is that the ‘everyday Joes’ wear… un-tucked shirts. So keep it classy because nobody wants to the standard double breasted be THAT guy. suit with the handkerchief in the breast pocket, and often a pinstriped suit” (Munich 59).

nt ’s Fashion Do’s & DoFa ll Dressing for the Rise & the

Hollywood uses costumes to reiterate a character’s identity and a character’s current state in the film. This is particularly true in Mafia movies, where they use fashion to distinguish the hero from the villain and to determine if the current Mafia leader is at the peak of his career or in the slump of it. Since we want all of our readers to be successful gangsters, we have verified how Hollywood presents the rise and fall of Mafia leaders through clothing.

v. The Villain The Hero

Though both the hero and the villain wear top-notch respectable clothes, the villain is usually wearing gaudy outfits that over-show his wealth. By doing this, Hollywood is trying to emphasize that the villain is vain — wasting too much of his time on appearances. In addition, Hollywood is implying that “to aspire to be wealthy is to aspire to be cruel” (Munich 61).

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“1920s and 1930s Gangster Suits: “Classic” Mens Fashion.” 1920s and 1930s Gangster Suits. N.p., n.d. Web. 21 Jan. 2013.

Blackman, Cally. The 20s & 30s Flappers & Vamps (20th Century Fashion). Milwaukee: Gareth Stevens, 1999. Print.

DoubleBreasted Suit

#1

Styles that Kill!

Check out these awesome suits, and the best ways to wear them to find the best look for your body.

SingleBreasted Suit

#2

Style Tips You know what’s hot in the 1930s for members of the Mafia? Suits. Suits with a “natural” cut, louder patterns and finer fabrics. In addition, sleeves that unbutton are a sure sign to others that you are wearing a quality suit. If you want to earn respect, you have to look like you deserve it, so choose a style that works for you.

The double-breasted suit gives you a slimmer silhouette. Mafia leaders seem to enjoy the double-breasted suit, but the single-breasted suit still has a lot of positive qualities as well, particularly if you have a broader build.

The single-breasted suit has a fuller look to it. This works well for bigger men because it will give more shape and structure to a rounder body.

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HAIR STYLISTS REVEAL

How Sleek Hair Really Makes You Look So Good No gangster is complete without the proper form of hair care. Having nice slicked back hair and a clean-shaven face shows your Family and your enemies that you are in control and have power over any situation. Brilliantine is ranked as the number one hair product to give you the best slicked back look.

In Mafia films you can see the successes and failures of leaders through their hairstyles. In both Scarface and The Godfather, Tony and Vito have slicked back hair and

The Rise

The Rise What’s Hot Trousers with zippered flies Trousers that are held up by belts Wristwatches Bowler and Homgburg Hats Banded trilby Sweaters with suits or sweaters under a blazer Loafers, Canvas Sneakers and Leather Sandals

Barbershop

The Fall

clean-shaven faces when they are in control of their “gang,” but as soon as things start to go wrong their hair becomes wild and messy; making the statement that slick hair equals success.

“1920s and 1930s Gangster Suits: “Classic” Mens Fashion.” 1920s and 1930s Gangster Suits. N.p., n.d. Web. 21 Jan. 2013.

The Fall What’s Not

Trousers with buttoned flies Trousers that are held up by suspenders Pocketwatches

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WORKS CITED “1920s and 1930s Gangster Suits: “Classic” Mens Fashion.” 1920s and 1930s Gangster Suits.

N.p., n.d. Web. 21 Jan. 2013.

Belinsky, Fred. “Iconic Hats: Newsboy Hats and Ivy Hats.” ‘Hat Blog’ N.p., n.d. Web. 21 Jan. 2013.

Blackman, Cally. The 20s & 30s Flappers & Vamps (20th Century Fashion). Milwaukee:

Gareth Stevens, 1999. Print.

Crane, Diana. Fashion and Its Social Agendas: Class, Gender, and Identity in Clothing.

Chicago: University of Chicago, 2000. Print.

Hill, Daniel D. American Menswear: From the Civil War to the Twenty-First Century.

Lubbock, Texas: Texas Tech UP, 2011. Print.

IMDb. IMDb.com, n.d. Web. 23 Jan. 2013.

“Inflation Calculator.” DollarTimes.com. N.p., n.d. Web. 22 Jan. 2013.

Munich, Adrienne. Fashion in Film. Bloomington: Indiana UP, 2011. Print.

Peacock, John. Fashion Accessories: The Complete 20th Century Sourcebook. New York:

Thames & Hudson, 2000. Print.

“Ultimate Gangster/Crime Film Site: Academy Awards (1990-present).” Ultimate Gangster/

Crime Film Site: Academy Awards (1990-present). N.p., n.d. Web. 21 Jan. 2013.

Wikipedia. Wikimedia Foundation, n.d. Web. 21 Jan. 2013.