PARTNERS IN CRIME

A GUIDE TO CREATIVE LEATHERWORK IN PRISON (AND OTHER PLACES) ISSUE N 1

PROJECTS l TECHNIQUES l GUIDANCE l INSTRUCTIONS l TOOLS CHOOSING MATERIAL l HAND SEWING l THE ART OF LEATHER l OUR PHILOSOPHY

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PRISON_MANUAL

PARTNERS IN CRIME is a leather brand that aims to provide simple techniques and guides on how to conduct leatherwork in a prison cell.

We observed an unfortunate trend where young men are unemployed and routinely spend up to 23 hours a day locked in their cells. We therefore believe there is a need to learn new skills and hobbies to generate optimism, discipline and self-confidence.

ISSUE N 1

This manual is made and printed in the 21st Century

by PARTNERS IN CRIME.

of 50 copies printed.

Copyright K. E. L. 2015.

All rights reserved including the right of reproduction in whole or in part in any form.

WWW.PARTNERSCRIME.COM

partners in crime Also found in: Legal, Acronyms, Wikipedia.

Thesaurus Antonyms Related Words Synonyms Legend: Noun

1.

partner in crime - someone who assists in a plot collaborator, henchman, confederate accessary, accessory - two people that have done something bad together - someone who helps another person commit a crime

n 1 an ally or companion a partner in crime

ISSUE N 1

PRISON_MANUAL

WWW.PARTNERSCRIME.COM

PRISON_MANUAL

Hey, we’re Partners in Crime; prisoners joining up to create handcrafted leathergoods.

We believe in collaboration across backgrounds, and want to provide meaningful work and more creativity in prisons.

Our goal is to work together in monthly workshops held by various designers. Small projects will be made together with other prisoners and continued in the cells individually. We want to create products that are not produced on the assembly belt, but with our own hands using local materials and traditional methods.

We simply believe that serving time should not be wasting time.

Let´s create something meaningful together!

WWW.PARTNERSCRIME.COM

ISSUE N 1

By being a partner in crime you can challenge todays prison system while connecting to the outside as the products will be sold under our own independent brand.

The project name stems from the classic saying about “partners no matter what” from the film world: people who get in trouble together or get each other in trouble and still sticking together somehow. In the same way this project aims to strengthen relationships through collaborative workshops to learn new skills together.

PRISON_MAGAZINE

www.partnerscrime.com/research Online Research

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Branding Your kit

WWW.PARTNERSCRIME.COM

Workshop Branding

PRISON_MAGAZINE

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Process Branding

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Hestervester Maximum Security Prison Tools

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Workshop Branding

Copenhagen Maximum prison Vestre Maximum Prison

WWW.PARTNERSCRIME.COM

CONTENTS 01 Introduction -

Why leather?

Whats leather?

Where is leather used?

02

03

The Workshop

Your kit

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Tools for leatherworking Preparation and planning

Creating a workshop in the cell Saddle stitch - a sign of quality A few tips for hand stitching Personalize the kit Prepare for next workshop

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Branding

Finishing

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Branding - introduction Creating your own mark Sketching ideas Prepare for next workshop

Dyeing Finishes Knots

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07

New projects

Designer´s tips

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Saddle stitch - a sign of quality Metal fittings

Dyeing Finishes Knots

01

Why leather?

When the right tannery is found, leather can be one of the best materials to work with. You will find information about the process behind it and the different types. We believe PARTNERS IN CRIME´s objects are desirable not only because of this but also because they reconnect people to their humanity. Our potential customers can feel the presence of the person who crafted the object, while at the same time the object brings him or her back to their own sensitivity, it gives them pleasure through the senses.

The information and advice contained in these pages are based on experience from talking to experts within this field. When I started this project the aim was to find a material that would be enjoyable to work with in a cell and during workshops.

For what we want to achieve, leather was really the only option – there is such variety in what can be created with it and options in finish, colour and design. We wanted to create small leather goods of high quality with metal details and branding. Later on the leather has the opportuntity to advance in level where more features can be added to the projects, such as moulding, tattoing or coloring. To begin with we want to get familiar with the art of hand sewing. To be known for quality, and for items that last, you have to use the best materials – you can’t cut corners with that.

Furthermore, during the secondary and primary research while prototyping in prison workshop, the feedback was often that leather is a forgiving material to work with a material that can give quick results when the right tools are available. There are also people who expressed that their thoughts drift off and they felt calmer. Most of all we think working with leather and stitching provides a sense of comfort. Its soft to touch it and you need to work attentively.”

Our designs will be handmade small leather leathergoods with locally produced materials. We mainly work with hand tools and sometimes with help of machine when that is available during workshops.

Aside from appearance, how the leather feels and handles is a big clue to its type.

Some leathers feel like real skin - light and flexible - whilst a heavily pigmented (protected) leather can feel rather like plastic.

We use full grain leather because it becomes more beautiful when it ages. It becomes more smoot and its colors more intense and full of life. Leather is also durable. A synthetic product will have to be replaced in about 6-12 months as its subject to wear and tear. Both your wallet and environment will suffer. If you use real leather on the other hand, it will stay with its owner for years and years, just like a good friend.

You can repair it if a seem breaks and treat it with natural balms and beeswax.

Leather is flexible too - it becomes smoother and prettier in the process of the user interacting with it. Furthermore, its stronger and can carry more weight.

The last pro-leather is that it simply smells great. It has a natural and pleasant scent.

Natural

�Working with leather gives you a sense of reality where the material gives you a constant and very direct feedback.�

- prisoner, during workshop Copenhagen Prison

If something goes wrong in our tannery, we correct it.

That´s what you do right? If your shirt button is put on wrong in the morning, you correct it. If you made some wrong decisions in life, you can still correct it.

We want to be upfront with what we do and therefore always correct our mistakes. - Leather expert, TarnsjĂś Garveri, Stockholm

01

What is leather?

Leather is a durable and flexible material created by tanning animal rawhide and skin, often cattle hide. It can be produced at manufacturing scales ranging from cottage industry to heavy industry. Because we belive local production equals global responsibility we get our skins from Scandinavian tanneries that share our philosophy.

PARTNERS IN CRIME leathergoods are made from Swedish cows born and bred.

We use full grain and genuine leather tanned with high grade oils and preservatives to keep it from being destroyed early by dryness and moisture. Basically, there are 4 types of leather that we explain here.

First, notice in the drawing to the left with the fibers? Near the bottom run horizontally and the higher you go, the more vertical they get. To put it simply, the more horizontal, the more easily the fibers pull apart. The more vertical, the tougher.

With natural leather you can find scratches.

These is evidence that the cow has lived a life before, perhaps scraped by a cactus or mesquite thorns, bitten by a bear or branded, who knows. The color sets in deep and stands out a bit and you’ll be able to see the full grain running through the hide in the form of veins too.

Full Grain Leather comes from the top layer of the hide which has ALL of the grain, therefore, FULL grain. The natural surface of full grain leather burnishes and beautifies

with use. It is the best leather money can buy and the only leather good enough for PARTNERS IN CRIME. Some companies spray paint their interior leather to try to make it look like full grain leather, but it just ends up looking like someone spraypainted some cheap leather.

Leather upholstery in cars is almost exclusively pigmented to protect it from years of heavy use, as are domestic upholstery leathers. One of the current challenges facing the leather industry is to produce lighter, types of leathers that have the durability and resistance to soiling that pigmented leathers have.

We´ve experienced to buy bags made with full grain leather, and discovered later that only a few parts were actually made of leather. Technically, the manufacturer wasn’t lying when he said “Made with full grain leather”, our philosophy is to be upront about how we work and therefore we cannot use anything but honest materials.

Top Grain Leather is the second highest grade because it is split from the top layergrade of blemished hide and is then sanded

and refinished. This is how they get rid of scars and scrapes and light cow brands.

Sometimes they sand off the strongest fibers of the hide leaving mainly the horizontal (easily pulled apart) fibers.

Genuine Leather (or suede) is the third grade of leather and is produced from the layers of hide that remain after the top is split off for the better grades. It can be smooth or rough.

Bonded leather is the dust and shavings of the leather glued and pressed together.

Leftover scraps are ground together with glue and resurfaced in a process similar to vinyl manufacture. Bonded leather is weak and degrades quickly with use. Most Bibles are covered with this.

All of our pieces are made completely out of full grain leather inside and out, if other materials such as wool or oilskin are not stated on the tag, simply because we belive honesty last as long as full grain. It just makes more sense.

01

Where to leather?

Uses of leather

Choosing right

People use leather to make various goods— including clothing (e.g., shoes, hats, jackets, skirts, trousers, and belts), bookbinding, leather wallpaper, and as a furniture covering. It is produced in a wide variety of types and styles, decorated by a wide range of techniques. There are many different uses for leather as it is a versatile material. It is both durable and fashionable, and therefore its applications are nearly endless.

Depending on the purpose of your project, choosing right is alfa omega for a succesfully outcome. You can be the best leather stitcher in town equipped with both knowledge and tools, but if you dont have the right material to begin with, its hard. Selecting right is not rocket science however, and can usually be determined by the individual maker after a few workshops. It is also handy to have a small libary with samples at hand when you ideate your next project.

We listed a few different uses for leather, some of which are currently prevalent while others are more historical in nature. To mention a few: - Sports; leather has a number of uses in sports, such as producing footballs and baseball gloves.

- Bags; satchels, backpacks, wallets, and purses are often made from leather.

- Cases; case for your eyeglasses or a protective enclosure for your smartphone may be made from leather.

- Accessories; leather is commonly used to manufacturer personal accessories, such as belts.

- Binding: leather is often used to bind or finish books.

- Clothing: It is often used to make clothing, including pants, skirt, raincoats, shoes and jackets.

- Saddles: In fact, leather has been used for all types of equestrian related products, including horse hoof boots.

Furniture: Couches, chairs, recliners, and even automotive interiors are made from leather.

As your new study of leather deepens we´re sure you´ll find your very own areas of use for your next project. Perhaps an innovation happens right in your cell!

If you want a leather couch with many details and intricute folds, it is wise to choose a softer leather type such as lamb skin. If you set out to sew a boxing bag, on the other hand, you can go for a thicker cow skin. You´ll learn more about what animals we produce skin from more in Scandinavia and environmental friendly considerations how our environement should be taken into consideration for each project.

Some wrist watches that want to achieve a more minimalistic style may use only one slize of leather that is properly edge treated, with a carved cut out for the seem and other times you want it to look more crafty and rough with visible stitching. Leather is often used to bind or finish books. Here, its more typical to choose a hard leather type to prevent it from tearing down too quick on the edges. Boiled leather, sometimes called cuir bouilli, was a historical construction material for armour. It consists of thick leather, boiled in water. According to some sources boiled oil and wax were used as well, while others posit the use of ammonia from fermented animal urine. The boiling causes the leather to become harder but also more brittle. The boiled leather can be fashioned into lames or scales to make

lamellar or scale armor. The leather remains flexible for a short time after boiling, allowing it to be molded into larger plates. This is a more advanced process, which demands several steps. We will learn how to do this in workshops soon, so stay tuned!

Treatment of leather We will have a workshop on how treat and care for leather, depending on its type.

Leather reacts over time to the environment and usage its been exposed to. A book may wear down more in the edges, sandals may be darker from lying in sunny sand all day and a rail in a busy office made of leather may create a thicker patina than a single mans office. As seen with the beige clock to the right, the designer has here used leather as a way of showing time. The photo of the three different leather stages in the introduction on previous page shows how sun exposure shows in natural tanning leather. As mentioned, this is a natural process, and often a wanted one too, as the patina is a sign that the object is made from real leather and not replica.

LEATHER DICTIONARY - a glossary of terms for the new leather craftsman

CALF SKIN

COWHIDE

MOSS BACK

Straight edge of leather, machine or hand-cut without shaping

Leather made from the skin of a grass fed, full-grown cow.

Underside of leather with natural suede back intact.

HARNESS STITCH

STAMP

FUSED LINING

Slightly angled stitch resulting from thread positioning that runs across the ridge of a diamond shaped awl or needle

Debossed pattern, lettering or logo, applied with a carved brass die using heat, time or pressure.

A lining that is combined to face fabric through the use of adhesive, pressure or heat

VEGETABLE TANNED LEATHER

PATINA

Vegetable-tanned leather is produced using ingredients found in nature, most commonly plant and vegetable matter, tree bark, leaves, fruits and simliar products. This is the most environmentally responsible process of tanning leather, and is also less harmful to the leather itself, allowing skins to maintain their tight fiber structure, thus resulting in better wear over time. Veg tanned leathers will burnish, resulting in a desirable patina apperance which continues to evolve over time.

The natural color evolution of a piece of leather as a result of exposre to sun or rain, and natural oils from the skin. Naturally burnished leather is generally considered aesthetically pleasing, and is a sign of high quality material. This can also occur in wood product and certain metals.

In time you´ll become fluent in leather and can start building your own collection.

“Leather demands something from you.

It forces you to get up from the chair since you have to get an overview when planning the cut. Its also a very physical thing where you need to use muscle force to pierce through the thick leather. It´s perfect for prison.”

- Prison guard, Hestervester Prison, Denmark

02

The Workshop When working with leather it is often that you´ll need sharp tools. Due to the regulations in prison it is likely that you can´t bring this to the cell. Therefor planning is key. The question you need to ask yourself is what can you do in the cell and how can you spend the time most efficient during workshops when you have access to all tools?

Leather is a premium choice of material for making bags, shoes, apparel, and more.

Since leather is a durable, unique medium to shape, leatherworking requires a set of highly specialized tools made for cutting, piercing, stitching, forming, and decorating.

A leather punch is needed to make clean holes like those found in leather belts, and awls can be used to pierce leather with other types of holes. Leatherworkers also need an assortment of knives for cutting and decorating. Due to the sheer strength of leather, ordinary needles are not strong enough to manipulate this material. Leather requires thicker, longer needles for stitching. Different types of hammers are required to form leather or flatten stitching.

Other handy leatherworking tools include wood underlay, strap cutter, and stitching clamps. Some things will be hard to keep at hand at all times, due to the obvious restric-

tions to sharp items. This is for your own safety as well as others. Regardless of these, there are plenty of leather work which is conducted using your head and hands only. Please note that most prisons do not accept the following tools to be used in the cell: -

Hammer Hole makers Scissor Knives

Later on you will create a simple kit for yourself, which will enable you to plan and keep some tools that your prison allows you to have in the cell. Image to the left shows a master craftsman and cabinet makers studio in Sweden. All materials are locally produced, and selected to age beautifully.

Each piece is signed and numbered ensur-

ing that it is authentic, hand-crafted and made with care. This was the starting point and inspiration for creating the kit. The same way as a workshop you will have your personal portable workshop in the cell. You can read more and prepare for how to create it in a workshop together with others.

02 UNDERLAY a hard wood plate can be good when fitting metal parts with metal hammer and hammering holes.

STRAP CUTTER set distance of any strap you wish to create and the strap cutter will ensure a straight line

CUTTING BOARD for cutting paper, leather or other materials. Has guides to avoid cutting off line.

FLAT HEAD HAMMER hammer with flat surface to knock down stiches etc

METAL HAMMER for metal fittings and branding embossments

TOOLS

KNIFE it needs a sharp blade to cut through any thickness

EDGE CUTTER Cut along messy edges to create a nice corner

EDGE INK to avoid frizzy leather parts on the edges treat paint on the edge to finish

DIV. METAL FITTINGS to connect surfaces or create open/close locks

AWL rolls like a pizza cutter to create correct distance before punching holes

C-CLAMP can be mounted onto any table top to hold your project aligned

02 CLAMPS

NEEDLES

handy small friends to hang up inspiration, or align your project

PINS

special leather needles for different types of leather

despite its tiny size, the humble pin bears a lot of responsibility for soft textile and leather planning

AWL your best friend to open halfdone holes or holes that has closed over over time

FAT to avoid dry leather and maintain exposed leather

TOOLS

SADDLE STITCH to prepare holes for hand stitching

METAL RULER Triangeled rulers are good to find correct angles for cutting

TAPE MEASURE to perserve thread and ease coming through the leather BEES WAX to perserve thread and ease coming through the leather

SCISSORS small scissors are handy to cut details away and trim threads

COTTON THREAD thick cotton thread is best for leather. Can be bought waxed or unwaxed for those who want to do it themselves.

BEES WAX to perserve thread and ease coming through the leather

03

Your kit Here is a typical scenario of how the cellkit work for the first time. You get a parcel at your door or left in your room by a prison guard. Read the instructions carefully and start the first project when you feel ready. Regardlessly of the outcome you bring this to the next workshop meeting. This is the only way you will get feedback and learn new things.

Remember, patience is key to a successful outcome.

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PARTNERS IN CRIME package arriving at your cell

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Opening up package to reveal all small bits and parts

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Try to stitch to create first product: a tote bag!

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Wet sponge to moist leather for branding

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C-clamp onto table or other flat surface overnight

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1st project How to saddle stitch a tote-bag

At this point you´ve probably opened your package to find the parts for the tote-bags.

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Forest black sanded canvas Needles for canvas and leather Ready-made logo on leather batch Seam ripper Needle threader Tape measure Leather straps

You´ll receive a packing slip along with explanations if needed and a pattern 1:1 scale.

It can be layed out on the floor to compare, and I´m sure you´ll figure it out after som trial and error. Should you stitch wrongly, the white seam ripper with a red dot on top should enable you to undo the stiches if you wish so. Remember, this is your first try with stitching so be patience and ask for help if needed.

Usually tote-bags are made on machine, but we´re gonna make a real crafty version.

Handmade in every details. This task is meant as a rehersal for the real deal. Very soon we will start creation 100% full grain leather products. As good leather is an expensive affair we want to make sure we get it right with a more affordable version first.

You will here be sewing with two needles as the following instructions suggests. Follow the steps carefully and give feedback to designer if something is unclear. This guide is meant as a reminder and helper next to the monthly workshops.

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screw-on buttons for the shoudler leather strap

2 x straps for handle

branded logo stitched on with saddle stitch technqiue

tunnel stitched roll before stitching each side of the canvas

2 x metal fittings per end strap

BACK Tote bag scale 1:4

FRONT Tote bag scale 1:4

FRONT Tote bag scale 1:1

Canvas bag 1/2

Strap handle 1/2

05

The Original

CLASSIC TOTE BAG No of pattern pieces 10 Event Hand-stitching of canvas textile and leather details in cell.

First project conducted.

Note All pattern pieces include a 1,5 mm sew allowance. Sometimes the stitches we have prepared close again. Wiggle the needle instead of pushing. If its too tight, its better to wait until I have the right tools avaialble instead of forcing it as it may ruin the structure of the leather ďŹ bres.

EXPLAINATIONS Hand stitch through canvas

Hand stitch through leather

Hole

Leather Canvas bag 2/2

Strap handle 2/2

Sanded canvas

“Failure sucks, but instructs.”

— Bob Sutton & Diego Rodriquez

“In our experience, one of the scariest snakes in the room is the fear of failure, which manifests itself in such ways as fear of being judged, fear of getting started, fear of the unknown.

And while much has been said about fear of failure, it still is the single biggest obstacle people face to creative success.”

— Tom Kelley & David Kelley IDEO

05

2nd project How to saddle stitch your leather kit

At this point you may be done stitching your new tote-bags individually in the cell.

You may have found it easy, challenging or simply boring as it takes a bit of time to get it right the first time. The key to success when it comes to becoming a good craftsman is patience and right tools. So far, you´ve only been equipped with nothing but a needle and a thread. All parts have been layed out for you. It´s about time we change that and give you more control. Continue reading the design tips and steps to prepare for the coming workshop. You will here together with designers and other inmates learn how to saddle stitch your own leather kit. It will enable you to plan better and create a more meaningful time also in the cell.

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100% full grain black leather 100% felted wool inside All basic leather tools Seam ripper Needle threader Tape measure

FRONT Cellkit scale 1:1

The Original

EXPLAINATIONS

Hand stitch

Hand stitch

Leather

CELL KIT

Felt

No of pattern pieces 7 Event Hand-stitching of leather kit in workshop.

Second project conducted.

Note Entire patterns to be cut and connected during workshops with guidance. All pattern pieces include a 1,5 mm sew allowance. Sometimes the stitches you´ve prepared during workshops close again.

Wiggle the needle instead of pushing. If its too tight, its better to wait until I have the right tools avaialble instead of forcing it as it may ruin the structure of the leather ďŹ bre. Drawing below shows the real deal, in scale 1:4.

BACK Cellkit scale 1:4

These two straps will hold this manual in place along with other papers you fold

Straps are longer in real life than what they look here, as they will fit tools with a certain deapth.

The branded strap is stitched inbetween the felt and leathercover as tight as possible to lock the felt in place when closing

Pockets for cut out patterns to bring to workshop.

INSIDE Cellkit scale 1:4

or other small things you dont want to loose

INSIDE Cellkit scale 1:1

INSIDE Cellkit scale 1:1

03

Something personal, together with others When working with leather it is often that you´ll need sharp tools. Due to the regulations in prison it is likely that you can´t bring this to the cell. Therefor planning is key. What can you do in the cell and how can you spend the time most efficient during workshops while you have access to all tools? And how can you spend the time more creatively during celltime?

In the PARTNERS IN CRIME kit, we have used a robust outer leather cover from Denmark, with British oilskin and Swedish felt for the inside of the kit to give the object a greater sense of comfort and lightness. A softer leather type shows the constructions of the pockets where your soon to become, favorite tools will get its own place. The felt is locally produced from Swedish lamb wool and is comfortable to touch and easy to stitch. No prepared holes are needed. The oilskin gives more strength and ages beautifully along with its leather details.

Bad choices makes good stories. There will be pen and paper coming with your cellkit. Perhaps this could be your most valueable weapons to tackle the time in prison, or any brief or new project you want to engage in with PARTNERS IN CRIME. Later on we will talk about how to create your

own branding under the PARTNERS IN CRIME project. In this way, you can be as anonomous as you want, and only share your name with those you want.

Planning a head. Regardless of these restrictions, there are plenty of leather work which is conducted using your head and hands only. All you really need is to plan for the stitching. The kit you will create for yourself, enabling you to work in the cell easier as you know where your tools are and in time you´ll also learn how the restrictions are only opportunities for becoming more diciplined with time. In workshops you´ll have access to all tools needed for codnucting leatherwork. You will also have designers and guards helping you with questions or if you just need more inspiration. Together we will work on collections that we all collaborate on. Here you will get help with planning for next workshops.

There are many ways of planning projects, and the easiest is to make lists that you tick off once you´ve done it. Furthermore, the easiest way to stay on track on your project is also to have things visual! Hang anything you can find from your process up on the wall. This way you´re acting like the investigator of your project and you will feel better as you see what you´ve done and where you´re going next.

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Needle Thread Materials to work with (e.g. leather) Pens Paper Ereaser

Below you see an example of how you can brand your own mark. This prisoner wanted to have a star as his symbol. Maybe yours is just a line or a circle cut in half?

“Once you start creating things, you realize that everything has intention behind it.”

— Tom Kelley & David Kelley IDEO

“Craftsmanship names an enduring, basic human impulse, the desire to do a job well for its own sake. — Richard Sennett

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Branding Who are they?

The key brand question you must answer is, “Who are we?” The best answer to this is something that is short and clear.

Brand derrives from the french word “Marque”. It means both to physically mark something, and make a mark and statement, such as for marketing purposes to promote your stuff. There are subjects in school only concerning this topic, which people study for years, so I will hear only scratch the surface to give you an understanding of why its important to create a strategy to communicate the true essence of our brand. Our core mission is to increase creativity in prison, and to become good at leatherwork. Since we are a brand from prison, it makes sense to also keep the expression of our identity, or DNA, or personality a bit rough and rebellious.

Not entirely like a revolution brand, but with a statement. Therefore we choose to have a bold logo with a bit sketchy look. Our brand is meant to be something we can all relate to. You can read more about our values in the introduction. Where we believe our perceived quality is important to the behaviours of our costumers.

Creating a personal mark within our logo was a way for you to express yourself and a proof that your the maker. Brands are also used in business, marketing, and advertising. Initially, livestock branding was adopted to differentiate one person’s cattle from another’s by means of a distinctive symbol burned into the animal’s skin with a hot branding iron. We are in one project together but you are still an individual.

In accounting, a brand defined as an intangible asset is often the most valuable asset on a corporation’s balance sheet. strongly identified with a brand.

04

Partners in Crime Who are we?

PARTNERS IN CRIME is a leather brand that aims to provide simple tecniques and guides on how to conduct leatherwork in a prison cell.

We observed an unfortunate trend where young men are unemployed and routinely spend up to 23 hours a day locked in their cells. Therefore we believe there is a need to introduce new skills and hobbies for those who serve time to generate optimism, discipline and self-confidence.

This is our mission and brand philosophy.

Prison is an interesting place to study as its excluded from public debate, something most people don´t want to think of much.

We think there´s a need to. Things happening in silence, and only up to debate for a few people usually don´t end up very succesful. We want to create public awareness on prisons and in best case scenario perhaps trigger debates.

We want to be upfront about what we do and never hide our process. We believe in progress, not perfection.

Changes usually don´t happen over night tho, and a logo type doesn´t have to say everything about your brand.

We have a brand together: because we are joining up to be a partner in “PARTNERS IN CRIME” - therefore, we would like your mark to be a simple, even abstract figure for you to recognise. If it gets too personal or political, it looses the point and will be scrapped. Some enjoy to make patterns, rather than working figuratively. That´s your choice.

04

The maker marks Who are you?

That´s probably one of the hardest questions to answer during a lifetime. And we don´t need to know it. A better question is maybe, what do you like?

If you had a knife and a tree, would you have a favorite icon to signature? It´s usually more abstract than detailed. Some people like to draw and sketch, some don´t.

We suggest for you to keep it as simple as possible. That also makes it easier for you to make it. The process is to get an aluminum or stainless steel tube rod and file it by hand. We want you to test out some sketches on the following pages with this in mind. If you create something so detailed and beautiful that its impossible to achieve in steel or aluminium by hand, you will just get dissapointed. Low expectations, key to happiness. Keep it simple.

Your mark will be a simple evidence of your personal achievement. It will only be recognisable by you or those you wish to share it with. Remember that we have a brand together: because we are joining up to be a partner in “PARTNERS IN CRIME” - therefore. Who you are, is something personal.

On the following pages, you may test out some geometry and free hand sketches.

We will look through them together in next workshop. You will also find some examples of how others have done it in other prisons.

If your stuck try a ruler, or cut out a pattern that you repeat in different angles.

Enjoy!

Ø 38 mm

Ø 25 mm

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Step by step Working positions and stitching

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h stic m ss 5 m cro 5 x 2 .2

ca nd

le) nd (ha ps mm stra 380 x er ath m Le 24 m

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Lay out the material with the manual to compare. At a second glance the puzzle may feel de-mystified when you see how simple it can be.

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A good start-tip is to always use an arms lenght thread and make a knot. We will teach you more about knots and hiding the thread in next months manual and workshops.

We are all different, so make sure you find a working position that works best for you. Experts in the field typically express that they find it best to work on a lower chair with broadend legs for good stabilised position or with project between the knees, with help of books or a horse. See next page for tips on how to make your own!

If you have a low table and c-clamp this is a desirable working position for longer stitching seessions.

Stitching with one thread together with two needles takes practice. Make sure you have something to look at in the beginning that clearly shows you how it was done.

Sometimes the stitches you´ve prepared close again. This could be environmental reasons, such as moist in the air or simply time. Wiggle the needle instead of pushing. If its too tight, I would wait until I have the pointy tools avaialble instead of forcing it as it may ruin the structure of the leather fibre.

You can also use hardcover books to support your stitching project. I usually use this method, and a wooden clamp, but if you have thinner books two normal clamps work fine.

07 Placing the logo tag Now that you´ve lined the fabric with pins it´s easier to find the correct spot for the leather batch. Find a place that you compare to the drawing and settle for an area.

People use leather to make various goods— including clothing (e.g., shoes, hats, jackets, skirts, trousers, and belts), bookbinding, leather wallpaper, and as a furniture covering. It is produced in a wide variety of types and styles, decorated by a wide range of techniques.

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Natural tanning leather from Sweden Between 0.5 - 2 mm thickness Organic, and living dead material

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Make sure you fasten the thread properly, and find ways on the inside of the bag to hide it.

Here you also see how what way the screws will be fastened together with a small leather ring.

Always double check if youre stitching from the right side, and how the stitches turn out by turning the bag inside out like below. You can compare it to the stitching on the trousers or sweater your wearing. It makes sense, really.

Book clamped together using a metal clamp as attached in packaging. This ensures aligned seems and a more controlled stitching.

If you don´t have a c-clamp or metal fittings to create a saddle horse, use your knees to hold it in place. You will be stitching from both sides using two needles as shown below.

07

Begin with cutting the thread after arms lenght as shown in illustration earlier.

From now on, everything concerning one needle stitching is forgotten. Almost. At least in the beginning, we will only using two needles like shown here.

Sometimes its tricky to thread it onto the needle. Use the attached needle threader and simply pull it through like the illustration here.

Stitch small tunnels that meet on the top opening of the bag like this:

If you get a hold of a leather tool for edge treatment you can test out the exercise on the logo batch or handle straps as above for fun.

The thread you´re using is waxed, and a bit sticky on the hands. This is to make it easier to pull it through leather and other materials.

However, should it dry out, add more by dragging the soap looking beeswax over it to treat the thread again. This should be done many times during one project.

07 If you are uncertain about how to finish off with knots, we will gladly help you do this in the upcoming workshop.

OBS! Do not cut the thread, just leave it as long as possible when you´ve finished the stitching.

Congratulations! You´ve created your first PARTNERS IN CRIME project.

See you for next workshop!

WWW.PARTNERSCRIME.COM