Savor Waco

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4 Waco Coffee Shops you Need To try

Waco

Spring 2015

Food Trucks: Driving WAco’s New Downtown culture

Club Sandwich owner Youngdae Moon talks about the food truck business and the Texas Food Truck Showdown. Page 11

A regional food magazine


Table of Contents Letter from the Editor

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4 Waco Coffee Shops You Need to Try Farmers Market Brings Quality Produce and Entertainment to Waco Community

7

4

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Texans Define Cuisine by Personal Experiences

Food Trucks: Driving Waco’s New Downtown Culture

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11

The Heart Behind Waco’s Gourmet Cooking Store

Waco’s Pizza Giant: Poppa Rollos Pizza

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Letter from the Editor

W

aco has a deep, rich food culture that is a product of its Central Texas location and the people who have settled in it. Within this magazine you will find articles about the history of Texan cuisine, a look into the food truck culture in Waco, and profiles on local restaurants and businesses that cater to the foodie community. I have always enjoyed food, and the opportunity to create this magazine has opened my horizons and allowed me to discover things I never thought I would. I came to college a little sheltered, but with the help of adventurous friends, my eyes have been opened to the variety of delicious foods available in Waco and across the globe. During my time interning at Seeds of Hope Publishers, I learned a lot about poverty and hunger, which fueled my drive to learn about the effects a lack of food has on parts of Waco’s community. The knowledge of the tenuous relationship between Waco’s identity as a food desert and a melting pot of cultural food has changed my outlook on food forever. The depth of Waco’s food culture continues to surprise me with its complexities, and I have learned so much. The creation of this magazine has been a glorious exploration of the city I’ve recently come to call home. I have never been more grateful for an excuse to try new food, take pictures with friends, and meet so many influential people. In addition to those mentioned below, I would like to thank everyone who helped me with the creation of this magazine. This includes the business owners who took time out of their day to talk and share their stories with me. I’d especially like to thank my friends and family who encouraged me as I took on this task. I’d like to thank Taylor, who was always lurking around with her camera to take better pictures than I could ever hope to, and Kaitlyn, who was always willing to offer great feedback and help me. Finally, I’d like to thank Dr. Lisa Shaver, who gave me the opportunity to pursue this magazine and did nothing but encourage me and push me to be better. I have thoroughly enjoyed the process of creating this magazine, and I hope you enjoy reading it just as much! – Kristin Waites

Contributors:

Kristin Waites & Taylor Grantham

Special Thanks to:

Dr. Lisa Shaver & Kaitlyn Riley


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Waco Coffee Shops You Need to Try

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ooking for a place to relax or get some work done away from the house? Instead of heading to Starbucks, sample some of Waco’s own coffee shops and cafés. These four local businesses offer free Wi-Fi, a comfy place to sit, and a variety of snacks to choose from in case you get hungry while you’re there.

Common Grounds 1123 S 8th St, Waco, TX

Common Grounds, located just off Baylor’s campus, is possibly the most well-known coffee shop in Waco (pictured above). The coffee: Common Grounds uses responsibly sourced coffee beans from vendors around the world to make a wide range of specialty coffee drinks. The house special is the Cowboy Coffee, an iced drink made with coffee, half and half, and “special sauce,” which is a sweet, caffeinated syrup. The atmosphere: The eclectic décor, diverse music, and seating options—both inside and out on the covered patio—make it a great place to work when you need a change of scenery. However, due to its proximity to Baylor’s campus and Common Grounds’ popularity, the shop is often crowded.

Lula Jane’s

406 Elm St, Waco, TX

Lula Jane’s is a self-sustaining bakery whose goal is to bring people together with good food. The coffee: Lula Jane’s serves a select number of basic coffee drinks, including lattes, macchiatos, and Americanos, but what it lacks in variety it makes up for in price. At 50 cents 2 // Savor Waco


for a regular cup of joe, you can also enjoy a tasty treat from the without breaking the bank. The atmosphere: The bakery has plenty of indoor and outdoor seating with a view of the garden out front. Lula Jane’s is removed enough from the hustle and bustle of downtown for its covered patio to be a peaceful place to relax.

Dichotomy

508 Austin Ave, Waco, TX Dichotomy is a newer coffee shop in Downtown Waco that offers coffee and espresso drinks as well as cocktails. The coffee: The shop features a rotating menu of coffee beans from across the country, which are used to make traditional hot and iced espresso drinks. Try the classic latté—it’s creamy, delicious, and an instant favorite! The atmosphere: Dichotomy’s interior is large and generally quiet, with plenty of tables and comfy couches to choose from. There is also a covered rooftop patio, which provides a great view of Downtown Waco and a nice place to sit.

Café Cappuccino 100 N. 6th Street, Waco, TX

Café Cappuccino is a coffee shop that serves breakfast and lunch in addition to an extensive coffee menu. The coffee: Café Cappuccino offers a wide selection of specialty coffees and teas, as well as endless options for customization; ask the baristas to mix any of the flavored syrups to make your favorite drink. The atmosphere: It can be crowded during the weekend brunch rush, but during weekdays you can spend some time in one of the comfy booths relaxing or chatting with friends and enjoying the view of Downtown Waco.

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Farmers Market Brings Quality Produce and Entertainment to Waco Community E

very Saturday morning, Olivia Mills makes her way to the farmers market to buy a week’s supply of fresh fruits and vegetables. She packs them carefully into her reusable canvas tote bag before taking the time to walk through the rest of the market, chatting with vendors and asking about what they’re selling. “I try to buy all of my produce at the farmers market,” she said. Mills likes that she can expect a certain level of quality and freshness from the farm vendors, and says that she enjoys being able to talk to the people who grow the food. While the farmers market is a great chance for everyone in the community to shop for produce, Camille Cody, the market manager, states that one of the main purposes of the Waco Downtown Farmers Market (WDFM) is “to bring food access to people who are

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typically without it.” It provides Wacoans with a weekly opportunity to shop for local fresh fruits, vegetables, and other agricultural products that they may not otherwise be able to buy. Almost half of Waco, Texas is considered a food desert. According to the Economic Research Service of the U.S. Department of Agriculture, this means that many residential areas don’t have access to nutritious produce— including a grocery store or other source of fresh fruits and vegetables. Often fast food restaurants and convenience stores are closer, providing an easier option for those without the means to travel far to get their food. Many of the vendors accept the Lone Star card, Texas’s SNAP food benefit program, so money is not a limiting factor in people’s ability to receive fresh, healthy produce. This spring the WDFM expanded to include a weekday market, thus increasing access to produce for the community, and allowing additional opportunities for vendors to sell in Waco. In order to make sure that it continues to fulfill its role in the community, the farmers market has a strict set of codes it must abide by. “Eighty percent of the market’s vendors must be selling something of local agricultural origin,” said Cody. While this means that only a certain number of nonagricultural or nonlocal


booths can attend, it ensures that the market continues to serve its original purpose for both producers and the community. The WDFM’s location in Downtown Waco is significant, as the majority of Waco’s downtown area is within the main food desert in Central Texas. A survey done by Masters of Social Work students at the Baylor University School of Social Work in 2014 showed that over a third of people living within food desert areas in Waco shopped at the WDFM. The study calls the WDFM an “existing community food asset,” and its vendors exemplify some of the most important factors to consider when addressing the issues of food desserts: “freshness, quality, and affordability.” One of the largest agricultural vendors at the WDFM is Johnson’s Backyard Garden, an organic farm based outside of Austin and run on the Community Support Agriculture model (CSA). Johnson’s Backyard Garden started off as a literal backyard garden at the Johnson family’s home in Austin, Texas. The Johnsons were providing weekly produce to about thirty families in Austin when they realized the garden was getting bigger than expected. “It took over the front and side yards too,” said Brent Johnson. The family bought twenty acres of land for their new farm just outside of Austin, Texas in 2006, and then an additional 40 acres in 2010. Now Johnson’s Backyard Garden attends various Texas farmers markets every day of the week, and provides produce to over 1000 families through their CSA. In addition to the agricultural booths, there are many other vendors that have come to be expected at the weekly market. “We want it to

Page 4: a selection of vegetables from Johnson’s Backyard Garden at the WDFM (top) and the Johnson’s Backyard Garden truck (bottom) Above: a woman shops at the Johnson’s Backyard Garden

be a place for families to come and spend time together,” said Cody. This is one of the reasons why the majority of nonlocal or nonagricultural vendors at the farmers market are still food oriented, like Co-Town Crepes, Sergio’s Food Truck, and Heritage Creamery. The WDFM wants to educate Wacoans and promote a society of people who are conscious of where their food comes from, and though some of these vendors aren’t necessarily essential to this purpose, they draw in additional customers and make the market a great place to spend Saturday mornings. Co-Town Crepes has been a staple of the WDFM since it began in 2011, and most mornings the line stretches across the yard. It is one of the most loved and expected vendors

The Waco Downtown farmers Market is located at 400 S. University Parks Drive. The market is open from 8 a.m. to 1 p.m. every Saturday, and 3 p.m. to 7 p.m. on Tuesdays. Savor Waco // 5


at the farmers market. Co-Town Crepes serves a variety of both sweet and savory crepes made right in front of you, including favorites like the Banana Strawberry Nutella Crepe and the Jalapeno Popper Crepe. Sergio’s Food Truck is another breakfast option at the farmers market. Sergio’s has a permanent location at 608 Austin Avenue in downtown Waco, but the food truck offers delicious breakfast tacos and burritos every week at the farmers market. Heritage Creamery recently made its debut at the farmers market selling cups of its specialty ice cream flavors like Sweet Potato and Sorgum. The creamery had its soft launch at the farmers market since its permanent location at 1125 S. 8th Street will not open until later this year. The vendor offers preservative-free ice

cream made only with local ingredients, and in a way showcases a perfect blending of the dual goals of the WDFM: increasing access to healthy, local fruits and vegetables and making the market a place people want to spend their Saturday mornings.

For more information on the food desert situation in Waco, read the food desert report done by the Baylor University School of Social Work: http:// www.actlocallywaco.org/wpcontent/uploads/7.21-fooddesert-report.pdf

Market Snapshots

From top, clockwise: Cookie Butter and Apple Crepe from Co-Town Crepes, Sergio’s Food Truck, World Hunger Relief Farm booth, Dichotomy booth.

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Texans Define Cuisine by Personal Experiences Savor Waco // 7


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he rise of food bloggers, celebrity chefs, and reality cooking shows has rocketed our cultural obsession with food into the public eye, emphasizing that food is more than just a necessity; it has become a lifestyle, a culture, and a matter of regional identity. This seems to be particularly true in the Lone Star State. Texan cuisine is interesting because it doesn’t quite fit into any boxes: it can’t be defined by one meal or even one kind of food. While Southern favorites are a large part of Texan food, they are by no means the only, or most important aspect of it. Even Tex-Mex, one of the most identifiable types of food in the country, does not define Texan culture. In an attempt to describe Texan food culture, Baylor University’s Texas Collection hosted a “Cooking in Texas” discussion on February 12. The foodie panel discussed the definition of Texan food and how it has changed over the years. Even though they were not able to come up with a definitive answer to what Texan cuisine is, they did agree that Texan cuisine is a product of the state’s history, which is ultimately defined by its cultural fusion. When we think of Texan food, generally the meals that come to mind are classic southern recipes: chicken-fried steak, chili, and barbecue. But the real definition of Texan cuisine is much broader, and therefore harder to pin down. It varies from region to region, person to person, and of course, people outside of the state have their own ideas about the food we eat. Part of the difficulty is that Texas is a crossroads of cultures, a place of fusion; the flags of six countries flew over Texas in just a few hundred years, and the people who settled the region—English, Mexican, German, and Czech, to name a few—had to adapt their home recipes to the native ingredients of their new land. This diverse population means that Texas is where Asian food meets Mexican food, “Viet-Cajun” restaurants exist, and the ever popular Tex-Mex reigns above all. Addie Broyles, the moderator of the panel and a food writer for the Austin American-Statesman, recounted her experience putting together the

Austin Food Blogger Alliance Cookbook. She asked people to submit “recipes that tell a story,” and said the final result truly “[captured] a slice of Austin.” These recipes were not all representative of classic Texan or even American meals; they were a collection of foods from around the world, and that was what made them so representative of the diverse city. The recipes were especially touching because of the effect they have on people. “It’s amazing how emotional food can make us,” Broyles said. Often food has a special place in people’s hearts because it represents the familiar comforts of home. As a member of the panel and a Texan food historian, Marvin Bendele travels around the state to talk with people about the foods they are eating and cooking. Bendele says that his favorite part of the job is learning “what the foods [people] are cooking say about them and where they come from.” Bendele is also executive director of Foodways Texas, a regional historical organization that evolved from The Southern Foodways Alliance. He explains that many of the members of The Southern Foodways Alliance felt that Texas’ food history was so large that it needed its own team “to preserve, promote, and celebrate the diverse food cultures” of the state. Foodways Texas explores the state’s vibrant past through documentaries, oral histories, and cookbooks, which they present annually at their symposium and various food themed events throughout the state. The other members of the panel also emphasized how essential cookbooks are to understanding the history of a region’s cuisine. “Cookbooks are a portrait of the community and the times,” said Beth White, one of the panelists and a cookbook collector. White has been collecting cookbooks for decades, though she didn’t necessarily set out to be a collector. She realized at one point that she had enough books to be considered a collection, “and like rabbits, they just started growing.” White credits eBay as one of the reasons her collection became so large. “It was addicting,” she said. Her collection, which was originally fairly

Texas is a crossroads of cultures, a place of fusion.

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Photo courtesy of Baylor Libraries.

general, slowly gained a narrower focus as White began trying to collect a cookbook from each of the 254 Texas counties. “Texas food is not what I grew up eating,” White said, but noted that “the culture of it became so important to [her] afterwards.” One of White’s favorite cookbook authors is Helen Corbitt, who wrote the Helen Corbitt Cookbook and was named “Tastemaker of the Century” by Texas Monthly in 1999. You can find cookbooks like Corbitt’s among the hundreds housed at the Texas Collection. Many of these focus specifically on Texas cuisine, and were donated from White’s personal cookbook collection after she retired in 2010. In the same way that White has explored the meaning of Texan cuisine through her collection of cookbooks, Lisa Fain has spent years trying to understand Texan cuisine through her own cooking. When Fain, one of the other panelists and a well-known food blogger, moved from Texas to New York after college, she and her friends searched high and low for traces of the food they had grown up with. “I would go to all the five boroughs trying to find Texan food,” she said. She recounted the story of a time before the internet, when she wanted to make queso and went to a new international grocery store looking for RoTel tomatoes. “I took public transportation to New Jersey, walked a mile in the snow, and they didn’t have it,” she said.

It was after this experience that she started figuring out ways to work around the lack of familiar ingredients, like using fresh whole chili peppers when she couldn’t find chili powder in the store. She eventually began sharing her recipes on her blog, “Homesick Texan,” which now holds hundreds of recipes and has been featured in The New York Times, The Dallas Morning News, and Southern Living magazine. But through all of her exploration and experimentation with food, Fain’s favorite recipe is still her grandmother’s chocolate pie. “There are pies and then there is my grandma’s chocolate pie,” she said in her blog post about the recipe. In addition to the nostalgia of the dessert—it was a staple at family events and a request during every visit—there’s the simple sentimentality of it being connected with a loving family member. “Only one person can make my grandma’s chocolate pie,” Fain said, “and that’s my grandma.” The simple truth is that we define our regional cuisine by our experiences; that’s why a childhood recipe can continue to be a favorite, even after you’ve tasted so many other types of food. Food is a personal experience, and because the Texan population is so diverse there are millions of ways to define it. It’s no surprise that Texan cuisine, in fact most types of cuisine, cannot be pinned down to a single description.

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“if you’ve never had a breakfast taco, you’re missing out on a wonderful way to start the day.” -Lisa Fain Breakfast tacos are the Texas equivalent of bagels in New York: a breakfast staple. Below is a great breakfast taco recipe from Lisa Fain’s blog “The Homesick Texan.” It’s quick and easy, and a great way to start your exploration of Texan cuisine, or relive the nostalgia of early morning taco outings.

Photo courtesy of HomesickTexan.com

Ingredients:

4 eggs 1/4 cup of milk or half-and-half 4 slices of bacon, or 4 sausage patties or 1 cup of chorizo 1 cup of refried beans, heated 1/2 cup of salsa 1 cup of shredded Longhorn cheddar 4 flour tortillas 1 tablespoon of butter Salt and pepper to taste

Method:

1. Whisk eggs with milk. 2. Heat up iron skillet on medium-high, and melt tablespoon of butter. 3. When butter is melted, pour in eggs and scramble for about three minutes or until done to your liking. Add salt and pepper to taste. 4. Heat up your flour tortillas either on a skillet, or by laying them on top of a gas burner. When tortilla starts to puff (about 20 seconds) turn it over and cook for another 20 seconds. 5. Take a tortilla and spread 1/4 cup of refried beans in the center of the tortilla. Add 1/4 of the scrambled eggs, 1/8 cup of salsa, 1/4 cup of cheese and either a slice of bacon or sausage patty. 6. Fold in bottom 1 inch of the tortilla, and then roll from left to right until self-contained. Makes four tacos.

The variations are endless, but this is a basic recipe with which you can experiment and change to your heart’s desire. You can also make them with chopped steak, sautéed vegetables, cut peppers, hash browns, or anything else you want. This recipe can be found on Fain’s blog here: http://www.homesicktexan.com/2007/09/breaking-fastwith-tacos.html. 10 // Savor Waco


Food trucks driving waco’s new downtown culture

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sian Food, American Style” is emblazoned on the side of Club Sandwich, one of Waco’s most recognizable food trucks. The red, white, and blue truck can be spotted outside of Dichotomy (508 Austin Ave.) most days during lunch and dinner, serving a variety of Asian-style sandwiches, tacos, and rice bowls. Club Sandwich owner Youngdae Moon had been entertaining the idea of opening a food truck since 2009, but it wasn’t until last year that he and his business partner Ted “Shorty” Browning (owner of local pizza joint Shorty’s) began seriously planning. “I had always liked cooking, but I was a filmmaker,” Moon said. Despite this, he left his job at the local TV station in order to pursue his dream of entering the food industry. Moon spent a few years running a restaurant for the local nonprofit Waco Outreach Foundation and then transitioned into food truck ownership. Moon says the idea for an “Asian fusion truck” came from a friend. He and his friends were eating banh mi (a type of Vietnamese sandwich usually made with pork, mayo, jalapeños and cilantro on a baguette), and one of them said, “Someone should sell this out of a food truck.” He took the idea and

ran with it. Moon, who has lived in Waco since he began school at Baylor University 19 years ago, was hesitant at first to invest money in a food truck because he was unsure how the city would respond. Vietnamese sandwiches are not an original idea, he admits, but “for Waco they are.” Though some people’s unfamiliarity with some of the items on his menu could have been a setback, it’s now one of his greatest assets. “I didn’t feel like I could do this in Houston, Austin, or Dallas,” he said, “because there are already so many other trucks doing the same thing.” He said he knew the market was ready after a few other food trucks opened in Waco and found success. Club Sandwich officially opened in May 2014, and business has been strong ever since. “The locals have embraced us,” Moon said. He attributes this to the approachable nature of his food; the menu items include familiar aspects of American food, like sandwiches and tacos, infused with Asian flavors. This is a gentle introduction that doesn’t seem too “out there” for those who aren’t accustomed to eating Asian food. Other menu items are traditional Asian dishes, such as the Vietnamese noodle dish pho, which Photo courtesy of wacotrib.com

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Left: Club Sandwich owner Youngdae Moon holds up his signature dish, the Trashcan Rice Bowl. Above: Burro Grilled Cheese food truck (from Austin, Texas) at the Texas Food Truck Showdown.

Moon said are inspired by his mother’s recipes. “Our best seller is the trashcan rice bowl,” he said. “We call it the trashcan because you just put all sorts of things in it.” The rice bowls are made with the customer’s choice of meat and sauce, plus a cucumber and carrot slaw over chipotle-lime rice. He said the most popular choices are by far the spicy pork and the Sriracha ranch sauce, which is the perfect combination of creamy and spicy. Moon said he really enjoys having the ability to “think of a new menu item and see how people respond.” He said that this stems from his mom’s attitude towards food during his childhood. “Korean moms show affection and love through food.” Even though it takes a lot of hard work and time to run such a successful business, Moon says it’s worth it. “When I see somebody try something that I make and really love it, it’s rewarding.” Though Moon considers his mother his greatest culinary influence, he cites LA food truck Kogi BBQ as one of his business inspirations. “They are widely regarded as being the truck responsible for kick starting the recent food truck craze and popularizing Korean tacos,” he said. He read about the business and its importance to the culinary world and knew he wanted to model his own food truck after it.

Kogi BBQ is also well known for using social media marketing, something else Moon has emulated in his business. He uses Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram to let customers know where he is throughout the day. However, Moon says his main goal is to use social media to connect with customers. “I try to get to know my regulars who are loyal, and have good relationships with them,” he said. He interacts with customers through contests and giveaways. Food truck culture is growing rapidly in Waco. “Since I’ve opened, at least half a dozen more food trucks have come to Waco,” Moon said. He often receives calls from people who want to start a food truck and are looking for advice. The small-town feel of Waco means that local business owners are able to collaborate and help each other out. Moon says that his friendship with Brett Jameson, co-owner of Dichotomy Coffee and Spirits, is the reason why he is often parked outside of the coffee shop. Moon also emphasized how big of an impact events have made in the community’s attitude towards food trucks and other locally owned businesses. Moon said that a lot of people at this year’s Texas Food Truck Showdown told him they had been hesitant to try Club Sandwich when they

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saw it parked around town, but since the event they have become regulars. “We sold three or four times more than I expected,” Moon said. The effects have been longlasting as well, he was happy to admit. “Business has grown 25 percent since then, and we booked seven events in the following week.” The first annual Texas Food Truck Showdown, held on Saturday March 28th, was an enormous success for all of its participants. Food trucks from all over the state came together in Waco to compete for the title of Texas Food Truck Champion and a prize of $2500. The event was held in the historic Heritage Square in Downtown Waco. The area was packed with people, and the dense crowd was composed of families and college students alike, along with a surprising number of people from out of town. The live music, provided by a few local bands, was a nice backdrop to the chattering noise of the crowd. The 35 food trucks in the competition each served their specialty dishes, and customers could use one $3 “Tasty Ticket” to try the dish. Just thirty minutes after the event began, the line for tickets stretched across the square.

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The sheer variety of options was overwhelming. In addition to the seven food trucks from Waco, there were intriguing out-of-town options like the Great Australian Meat Pie Company and Urban Cowboy Southern Fusion. Some of the trucks were attention grabbing because of their menus, but many were painted with eye-catching designs as well. Lone Star Sandwiches from Houston served an open-faced spicy brisket sandwich with cucumber guacamole—the crunchy bread provided a nice contrast to the tender, flavorful brisket. But the cucumber guacamole was the star of the dish, with a cool refreshing flavor that cut through the heat of the day. Next to Lone Star Sandwiches, the bright yellow truck of Burro Cheese Kitchen was a beacon, attracting people from every direction. The Austin-based truck served a grilled cheese sandwich called The O.G., made with jack cheese on a Kings Hawaiian Bun browned on the griddle. It was a simple recipe, but the combination of the sweet bread and warm, melted cheese was mouthwateringly delicious. Easy Slider, a food truck from Dallas, was one of the most well-known of the trucks at the event. It has won numerous awards, including being voted “Best


Left: Trashcan rice bowl from Club Sandwich Above: a customer shows off her “Sweet and Lowdown” slider form Easy Slider Right: a customer receives her slider from Easy Slider food truck (Dallas, Texas) at the Texas Food Truck Showdown. Tasty Tickets at the Texas Food Truck Showdown. Image credit: Unless otherwise noted, all Texas Food Truck Showdown photos are property of Taylor Grantham; used with permission.

Food Truck in Dallas” by D Magazine, Dallas Voice, and Dallas Observer. The hour-long line for the truck proved that its Sweet and Lowdown slider was well worth the wait. The recipe was unconventional (a beef burger with goat cheese, bacon, and strawberry jam), but it worked, and Easy Slider won “Best Between Bread,” the top prize for the burger and sandwich category. Clunkers, a donut sandwich truck from Killeen, also profited from serving a unique dish. Clunkers’ donut BLT was one of the most eccentric dishes at the event. The donut’s sweet glaze contrasted perfectly with the savory flavors of the bacon, lettuce, and tomato. About two hours into the event many of the trucks began to close. Most had run out of ingredients for their specialty dishes due to the sheer number of people attending the event, though some reported equipment failures due to overuse or heat. Event officials even decided to stop selling Tasty Tickets about an hour before the event was scheduled to end. Though no one could buy more tickets, most people still had tickets remaining from earlier in the day and felt the need to spend them. People piled into lines for the remaining trucks,

which suddenly became extremely lengthy. Some people seemed to give up, handing out their extra tickets to those willing to brave the lines. Others complained, saying that the lines were frustrating and they wished the event had been better organized. Waco’s Chamber of Commerce had anticipated a crowd somewhere between two and five thousand people, but it was later estimated that over fifteen thousand people bought tickets at the event. “Nobody was prepared for how much food to make,” Moon said. Though it never closed, Club Sandwich had to pause service a few times to prepare more rice, and Moon changed the recipe of his Trashcan Rice to include chicken after he ran out of pork. Other trucks, like Cowgirl Express from Whitney (which was serving a barbecue pork burger), had to close down just an hour into the event. CNJ Catering from Temple closed temporarily after selling over 400 meals in the first two hours. The note posted on their truck said “Back at 2 with more wings.” Despite this setback, they made out with the Best in BBQ award for their Smoked Chipotle Wings. Even businesses not participating in the Texas

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Texas Food Truck Showdown 2015 Winners The Texas Food Truck Champion (overall): Chef Tai, College Station Best International Dish: Great Australian Meat Pie Company, Dallas Best Between Bread: Easy Slider, Dallas Best Dessert: Mrs. Thompson’s Most Wonderful Cupcakes, Waco Best BBQ: CNJ Catering, Temple Best Truck Design: BellaTrino’s Neapolitan Pizzeria & Cucina, Southlake People’s Choice: Billy Bob’s Burgers, Waco Photo courtesy of wacochamber.com

It was a glimpse of what Downtown Waco could be. 16 // Savor Waco


Food Truck Showdown reaped the benefits that day. Cricket’s Grill and Drafthouse, located just across the street from where the event was being held, reported that the number of people they served was equivalent to that of the busiest Baylor game days. Businesses further down Austin and Franklin Avenues tallied record sales as well. “It was a glimpse of what Downtown Waco could be,” Moon said. “Fully realized, with foot traffic everywhere, and people patronizing all the different businesses. It was rewarding to see something like that be so successful in Downtown Waco.” The event has already been scheduled for next year (mark your calendars for April 2, 2016), and officials have begun planning for a more organized event, with more food trucks and additional ticket lines to support the crowd. The event’s success is representative of cultural changes happening across the country. The trend of mobile restaurants is sweeping the nation: food trucks are being featured on a show on The Food Network, and food truck festivals are held in major cities across the country. Taste of Chicago is the largest festival of its kind in the world—over sixty restaurants and food trucks attend the five-day event that attracts millions annually—and the crowd at the Texas Food Truck Showdown inspired the same excitement and eagerness to try new things. This event could easily become one of the things Waco is known for. The fact that it was even somewhat reminiscent of its predecessor must mean that the Texas Food Truck Showdown did something right. In fact, most of the negative things that could be said about the event can be attributed to one thing: no one expected so many people to show up! In a way, it represents the great cultural shift that’s happening in Waco. Perhaps the best thing about this change is that it is not just a one-time deal. Many of the trucks that participated in the Texas Food Truck Showdown have a semi-permanent location at the food truck pavilion downtown. The trucks rent space at the corner of Franklin and University Parks, which is no longer just an empty lot—the grass has been covered with gravel, and picnic tables with vibrant red umbrellas sit outside of the trucks. This set-up has been praised for bringing Wacoans downtown, and increasing foot traffic.

Most trucks are open for lunch, and then reopen for dinner on weekends. The lot is packed during these prime meal times, with lines at most of the trucks, and people occupying all of the tables. The spot is popular with families as well as college students, and people bring their pets out to enjoy the fresh air and great view on the bank of the Brazos. Usually there are four food trucks present: 900 Degrees Wood Fired Pizzeria, Dave’s Burger Barn, Xristo’s Café, and Mrs. Thompson’s Most Wonderful Cupcakes. Each truck has a specialty, providing numerous options for patrons. 900 Degrees was recently opened by Justin and Caleb Duty, sons of Poppa Rollo’s owner Roland Duty. The 900-degree wood-burning oven housed in this food truck can cook a pizza in just three minutes. Pizzas are made from scratch with authentic Italian dough and sauce, and are made with a variety of fresh toppings. Dave’s Burger Barn is the food truck counterpart of one of Waco’s favorite restaurants by the same name. The restaurant is home of the Zipper Ripper Challenge, which asks participants to eat a five-patty burger and fries in under twelve minutes. The food truck offers a variety of other options as well, and the staff recommends the chopped barbecue brisket sandwich. Xristo’s serves traditional Greek dishes like gyros and falafel, along with a few unique menu items like feta fries. In addition to delicious drinks like homemade lemonade and sweet tea, the hummus and pita at Xristo’s are wonderfully warm and authentic and make a great snack! Mrs. Thompson’s Most Wonderful Cupcakes sells its specialty cupcakes in a variety of flavors, including red velvet, cookie dough, carrot cake, and salted caramel. The food truck pavilion is a great lunch destination, even for those who don’t work in Downtown Waco. Service is quick and the variety of options means there’s something for everyone. The crowds of people who flock to the food trucks everyday are testament to its success, something that many people never through would be present in Waco. Moon said that people are often quick to dismiss things that are happening in Waco just because of the location. “There’s that phrase, ‘Oh, it’s good for Waco,’” he said. “But this is just good.”

Savor Waco // 17


The Heart Behind Waco’s Gourmet Cooking Store A

chalkboard sign outside of Gourmet Gallery proclaims “Happiness Inside!” This is not an exaggeration. The cozy shop is full of the mouth-watering scent of comfort food (the day’s special, “Wholesome Minestrone Soup with Quinoa & Local Greens”) and the shelves are lined with cookbooks, kitchen supplies, and some specialty ingredients. Towards the back of the store is a fully stocked kitchen where cooking classes and are held. Behind the front desk Karyn Miller, the owner, greets customers with a bright smile. Miller has traveled all over the world since graduating with a degree in journalism from Texas A&M, and though she grew up in a “food oriented family,” Miller acknowledges that she “didn’t go to school thinking of becoming a chef.” What drew her back to the world of cooking was spending some time living and traveling abroad, which she says was truly an eye-opener. She tasted things she thought sounded weird, like “pickled fish” in Sweden, and ended up liking them. The endless variety of foods available in new places made her realize just how limited her food experiences had been. “Even Houston was a whole new food world for a girl growing up in Brownwood, Texas,” she admitted. Miller’s initial vision for her business was inspired by a visit to a Sur La Table store in Newport Beach, California. Upon walking in the doors, she said, “This is what I want to do.” She liked that it included “both the retail store and the kitchen for cooking classes,” but said she would like to emphasize a “small town, warm atmosphere” in her own business. 18 // Savor Waco

After meticulous planning, Gourmet Gallery opened in Waco, and seven years later, the shop still serves the Waco area with supplies and expertise. “This is really a dream come true,” Miller said. “I love it, but it is hard hard work.” While store manager Rachel Solano takes care of much of the day-to-day work, Miller still holds a lot of responsibility on the administrative side of the business, including accounting, marketing, scheduling and overseeing operations. She spends a lot of time at the shop because she loves being able to meet customers and help them make informed decisions about what they want. “We have tried 95 percent of our products,” she said, “and we know how they work.” Miller’s ultimate goal with Gourmet Gallery is to help others realize just how


enjoyable cooking is. “There’s something very cathartic about being in the kitchen and cooking,” she said. In addition, she enjoys the hospitality aspect of cooking: being able to make something that others will enjoy. Her selfless nature really comes out in her food, as she notes that her favorite things to cook are “comfort foods and whatever [her] daughter wants to eat.” Miller’s business is based in a passion for food and its varied forms, and she believes that’s what makes it successful. “I love food,” she said. “All aspects of it, all flavors of it.”

Gourmet Gallery is located at 2056 North Valley Mills Drive, Waco, Texas 76710. It is open Tuesday through Friday from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m and Saturday from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m.

I love food. All aspects of it, all flavors of it.

Left: Karyn Miller, owner of Gourmet Gallery. Below: some of the store’s merchandise, including cookbooks and kitchen supplies.

Savor Waco // 19


WAco’s Pizza giant A sk any Wacoan where to stop on your way through the city, and you’re likely to get a long list of places you absolutely must try. While this is not necessarily helpful, it’s simply realistic; Waco is rich with family restaurants and eateries that have become central to the city’s identity, and Poppa Rollo’s is just one of those places. Poppa Rollo’s Pizza officially opened in 1969 when Roland Duty changed the name from PePe’s Pizza. He’d bought PePe’s earlier that year, after having worked at the pizzeria during his time as a student at Baylor University. After ten years of business, Duty decided to look for a new location to accommodate the growing business. Poppa Rollo’s has been at its current location on Valley Mills since 1979, and has continued to multiply in size to meet the demand of customers. It’s easily visible from the street, marked by an oldfashioned red fire truck and a marquee sign that sit out front. Though the restaurant is owned by Duty and his wife Mary, pizza making is truly a family affair. All of their five children grew up in their business, and sons Justin and Caleb Duty followed in their father’s footsteps of owning a pizzeria. The two brothers recently opened 900 Degrees Wood Fired Pizzeria, a food truck in Downtown Waco. They carried with them the commitment to creating pizzas from scratch, which is one of the things that sets their family’s pizzas apart from others. Poppa Rollo’s calls its food “the best pizza on earth” for a reason. Duty said there’s a huge difference between his pizza and other Waco pizzerias. “Those guys have plenty of parking,” he joked, before becoming serious. “There’s a difference in the way we make a pizza,” Duty said.

20 // Savor Waco

In addition to buying the best and freshest ingredients, Duty said he doesn’t skimp on toppings like other “price point” pizzerias might. One of the best selling pizzas is “The Works,” a specialty pizza piled high with pepperoni, Canadian bacon, mushroom, onion, green bell pepper, olives, sausage, hamburger, shrimp, and jalapeno. Poppa Rollo’s has always made a commitment to its customers, which is why the menu offers so many specialty options, like gluten free crust and vegetarian toppings. Each of the pizzas is made to order. “It’s not how many people we can get in here,” Duty said. “It’s how well we can treat them.” In addition to their regular pizzas, Poppa Rollo’s provides other options on their “Healthlite” and “Specialty” menus. “Healthlite” pizzas are made with whole wheat dough and low sodium sauce, and are available with a variety of topping options, like Vegetarian D-Lite and Plain & Simple. The “Specialty” menu has more adventurous gourmet options like BBQ Chicken Pizza and Spinach Alfredo. The restaurant’s atmosphere is just as eclectic as its menu. Waco and Baylor themed artifacts cover the walls, and vintage diner booths and jukeboxes contribute to the retro feel. The number of TVs placed around the building shows the focus on entertainment (in fact, Poppa Rollo’s was the first restaurant in Waco to have a big screen TV). The best thing about the space is that it is large enough to offer entertainment for a variety of age groups. The restaurant’s size allows for a few different party rooms, all with TVs, which attract large groups for birthday parties or even business meetings. Some people come for the “Party Pizza,” which is Waco’s largest pizza at 29 inches in diameter. It is the size of almost 4 large pizzas and can feed up to 20 people.


Poppa Rollo’s Pizza The parlor is where they regularly show classic black and white movies and cartoons, which adds to the old-fashioned atmosphere—The Little Rascals is a favorite, and is shown pretty often. The arcade and game room is great for kids, and includes classic arcade games and a variety of other family friendly activities. The bar is “hidden” behind a secret door at the back of the restaurant, allowing adults to get away from the crowd and enjoy “the coldest beer in Waco.” This is where customers can go to watch live sporting events as well. Duty said the restaurant caters to many different types of customers, but their focus is on locals who live and work in the area. “Student types are wonderful,” Duty said, “but we refer to them as the gravy. The meat is the locals.” Like many business owners, he has realized that it’s just good business sense to cater to the locals first. “[They] are here 365 and the students are here 270.” The restaurant also attracts visitors from out of town, and is a popular spot for Wacoans to bring guests when they want to eat at a “classic Waco restaurant.” It is clear that everyone involved in running Poppa Rollo’s is having a good time, and

it’s that friendly and welcoming atmosphere that keeps bringing people back. Duty works hard to make sure that both his customers and staff are enjoying their time at the restaurant. He sometimes calls them his “paid volunteers” because everyone wants to be there. “You’d better enjoy what you’re doing if you’re going to work,” he said. This is Duty’s favorite thing about owning the restaurant—it is his life’s work and something he enjoys. “I don’t consider it work at all,” he said.

Poppa Rollo’s Pizza is located at 703 N Valley Mills Dr. It is open Monday through Thursday from 11 a.m. to 11:30 p.m., Friday and Saturday from 11 a.m. to 12 p.m., and Sunday from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.

Left: Poppa Rollo’s pepperoni pan pizza. Below (left): Owner Roland Duty (right) with son Justin Duty (left). Below (right): Justin Duty preparing one of the restaurant’s signature pizzas.

Photos courtesy of wacotrib.com

Savor Waco // 21


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