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CONTENT 7
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Letter from the editor
About- 60s on the Road
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The Mini revolution.
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The Peacock Revolution
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Queer Fashion.
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Fashion Icons-A
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Jeans; a great equaliser.
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Into self-expressionism.
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Casa Susanna.
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Fashion Icons-B
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Second wave feminism
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Against beauty standards.
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Redefining masculinity.
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Ushering fashion.
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Fashion Icons-C
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Letter from the editor
Having asked the meaning of the word, ‘communication’, followed by its associations, I generally observe most of the people focusing on its verbal expressions and transmissions, which is indeed the primary association. However ends up missing, how always and everywhere they bodies themselves in an impressive fashion to communicate to the society.
While our grandfathers from the ‘60s started the conversation with their ascots and bead work, the following decades refined the debate. When a hetero man embraces effeminacy, he presents the idea that self-expression needn’t have anything to do with gender. Masculinity doesn’t have to be questioned or defended, and gender presentations don’t have to box in those who aren’t willing to be packaged away into their cookie-cutter suits or dresses. It talks about people coming together and instigating numerous revolution, embracing and discarding; laws, beliefs, ideologies and well, clothes. The storm of sixties saw world joining hands in the name of liberation and comfort, women standing for women and men adoring their feminine side.
This issue of ‘The shake’ deals exclusively with sixties- on the road, which is a conscious effort to accredit the importance of fashion for social changes and as the basics of communication.
‘Using clothes isn’t just about looking pretty: It’s based on highlighting the crude edges of society, honouring outcasts, celebrating aberrants & questioning norms.’
Kritika Sharma Editor-in-chief (The Shake)
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Illustration by Saje Yuva for Coste Nade for an article based on 60s culture.
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he 1960s or simply sixties, was a decade of the Gregorian calendar that began on 1 January 1960, and ended on 31 December 1969. It showed a complex myriad cultural and political trends around the globe. The world witnessed a great change in music, art and fashion. Known as the 'Cultural decade', with women fighting for freedom of expression and men trying hard to break the pressure to perform. This was a year when the advent of counterculture blew the world, and revolution in social norms lead foundation to the later decades. It contempt to denounce it as a flamboyant and decay of social order. This decade was also labeled as the Swinging Sixties because of the downfall of social taboos, specifically related to racism, and sexism that were prevalent during this time, but
also because there was an emergence of wide range of music, from a divine folk music revival, to the Beatles revolutionary tunes, to the serious lyrics of Bob Dylan and Paul Simon. Norms of all kinds were seeing their last days in regards to civil rights and men stopped going off to meaningless wars.
youth discovered a new league of music, fashion, design and everything else that would perish the post-war gloom. Fashion boutiques emerged with willy-nilly. Men strolled around Carnaby St, near Soho, for the latest 'Mod' fashions. While women hopelessly were drawn to the King's Rd, where Mary Quant's designs flew off the The baby-boomers of the rails of her iconic store, Ba1950s meant that the urban zaar. population was younger than it had ever been. By Even the most shocking or the mid-60s, at large 40% daring barmy fashions were of the population was un- popularised by models who, der 25 years. With the termi- for the first time gained the nation of National Service status of a superstars. Jean for men in 60s, these young Shrimpton was considered people had more freedom. as the symbol of Swinging They had fewer responsibili- London, whereas Twiggy was ties than their parents' gen- named The Face of 1966. eration. They stood against Mary Quant herself became the limitations and restrictions the undisputed queen of the of post-War society. In short, group, ‘The Chelsea Set’, they desired to shake the made of a hard-partying, sothings up… cially eclectic mix of largely idle 'toffs' and talented workThis unconventional com- ing-class. Music also was a bination of affluence and huge part of London's swing.
While Liverpool danced on the tunes of The Beatles, the London sound was a mix of The Who, The Kinks, The Small Faces and The Rolling Stones. Their music was the soul of Swinging England’s pirate radio stations. Curious creative of all kinds gravitated to London, from artists and photographers to magazine publishers, advertisers, film-makers, designers and product designers. But not everything was rosy. Immigration was a hot topic for politics. There were over 100,000 West Indians by 1961 in London, and unfortunately, not everyone welcomed them with open arms. One of the biggest problems of all was the shortage of housing facilities to replace bombed buildings and unhealthy slums to cope with a flourshing urban population. By the 1970s, the industry declined and unemployment rose, Swinging sixties seemed to be a dim and distant memory.
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1963
Second wave feminism A follow up of first wave feminism, started in US, this focused on sexuality, family, the workplace, reproductive rights,, and official legal inequalities. Second-wave feminism also drew attention to the issues of domestic violence and marital rape, engendered rape-crisis centers and women’s shelters, and brought about changes in custody laws and divorce law.
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THE MINI REVOLUTION A battel of liberation.
After six decades, the allure of miniskirt is still in force, it does not distinguish colours, genres, silhouettes or age. The trends, and its versions vary but the feminist spirit remains intact. Here’s a subtle bow to magnificence of miniskirts.
A photoshoot from vogue, 1965.
miniskirt /ˈmɪnɪskəːt/
1965
noun noun: a very short skirt.
“The mini shocked the most conservative sectors by its extreme dimensions, come to measure between 35 and 45 centimetres and aimed to show off the legs, something unthinkable untill swinging sixties.”
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here is no evidence to point out the first one to take the hemlines an audacious long way north of the knee. There is a well known possibility, that it was French couturier André Courrèges who invented what was to become the emblem of rebellious youth, the miniskirt. But it was certainly a young English girl, Mary Quant who named it as such, Mini Skirt, in
honour of the little car she loved so much, and to have launched it at international level. Miniskirt remains swinging sixties one of the most enduring icon. Marking a revolution, it was a symbol of, ‘the rejection of formality and the pushing back of boundaries’. Born as a social response where young people came out to protest & seek to differentiate themselves from adults
Style like its
Round neck t-shirt with the right fit goes great with a printed miniskirt. Do not forget to match the hair accessories with it. While chosing the color, make sure you go for natural, something inspired by nature; green, blue, browns. Wear light make up, and remember to adorn your cheeks with a lot of blush to look glowy and dewy like the sun of sixties.
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JEANS A Great Equaliser.
Jeans, a staple today in most women’s closets, were adopted by women in the 1960s as another way to claim traditional men’s fashion for their own unlike the preceding decades that offered restrictive clothing. Wearing jeans casually was intended to “minimize the significance of gender” by putting emphasis on the chasm between old-world femininity and the new generation of women seeking equality between the sexes. By wearing jeans, which were both masculine and working class, second-wave feminism started a style revolution and became a sartorial symbol of gender equality.As gender stereotypes and sartorial codes became challenged in the mainstream, jeans started to be worn almost everywhere, and Levi’s became one of America’s most desirable exports worldwide. “Levi’s has always been a company
built on strong values and we pride ourselves on being pioneers in the fight for equal rights for all,” Karyn Hillman, Chief Product Officer of Levi’s, told Fashionista. It affected the branding as well. Now products were advertised not only for their aesthetical value, but how they empower women and add value to their lives. Between the time when Levi’s jeans were first introduced in 1873 and today, the denim industry has undergone massive changes that reflect cultural shifts, including the fight for gender equality of 60s. Denims have been in the market for long, but their use as a uniform against the establisment, or to demonstarte theri solidarity with the workimg class gained popularity. There was an innovation in the style of the jeans too. This was a new, slimmer silhouettes of the 1960s inspiring Slim Fits of today.
Advertising images from the early 1960s, courtesy of Levi’s®
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the peacock
revolution Peacock Revolution talks about the revloutionary changes in men’s clothing that reflected, and contributed to the changing ideas of manhood initiated by rebellious baby boomers coming to a seeming end in the ear of social revolution. With the herald of the Peacock Revolution, fashion opened up a new dimension to pluralism where one could embrace androgyny while simultaneously expanding what it means to be masculine — or even better, end the gender binary restrictions altogether.
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To explore individuality,
DABBLE INTO
SELF-EXPRESSION
B
efore the 1960s, men’s fashion was generally based on a conservative template that people didn’t think to question: a shirt and tie; a plain, handmade suit; a jumper hand-knitted by a relative. Young men dressed much the same way as their fathers did. But in the late 1950s, the Mods (short for ‘Modernists’) signalled the birth of a confident new youth culture, demanding clothes that made a statement. In London, people started wearing clothes heavily influenced by Continental style, mainly Italian slimline suits, with short jackets, and enjoying the beatnik looks. As the 1960s gathered pace, the standardized customs for a man’s suit began to alter subtly, adding new elements: the collarless jacket (popularised by The Beatles in 1963) and slim-fitting trousers, matched with heeled boots by chucking shoes. Boutiques started selling off-the-peg menswear across London, while traditional tailors and shirt-makers began to support society’s increasingly new informal mood. Flamboyant elements such as embroidery and vividly printed shirts became acceptable parts of the everyday male dress code – in London at least. With these fresh new options, men were allowed to dabble in self-expression.
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beatnic /ˈbiːtnɪk/
1960
noun noun: A young person in the 1950s and early 1960s belonging to a subculture associated with the beat generation.
A seires of
covers from the sixties showing the frivilous change in menswear with advent of more prints, colours and play of silhouette fostering the pride in self-expression.
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REDEFINING
MASCULINITY
Men against gender expectations. Hailing Peace.
‘These looks weren’t feminine, per se. Instead, they broadened the scope of what it meant to be masculine. They were revolutionary and rule-breaking, which only added to the draw.’
Mick Jagger, leading siger of the very famous band of 60s, ‘The Rolling Stone’, stepped on stage in dresses, wore ruffles and make-up. As a fashion icon, he proved that one’s masculinity was obviously not something to be threatened because of clothing.
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roadening the definition of masculinity, just a few years prior, ironed slacks and fedoras were the name of the game, so stepping outside on a normal Wednesday afternoon wearing sweater suits, Mary Jane’s, and chinchilla coats might be a little scandalizing. But through the advent of Peacock Revolution, some men were able to blur the gender lines with less push-back. Why? Because all the hottest rock stars were doing it, too. And if sex bombs like Mick Jagger and Jimi Hendrix were rocking poet blouses, and were stepping on stage in dresses, then one’s masculinity was obviously not something to be threatened because of clothing. In other words, all stereotypically “masculine” traits were trivialising and letting the wearer reject those limitations and broaden the scope of their unique masculinity.
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QUEER FASHION
A movement worthwhile.
While donning feather boas and beaded velvet jackets might have felt progressive for the newly-labeled London Dandies, many gay men have been wearing them for years. But with the decriminalization of homosexuality in Britain circa 1967, several stereotypically "queer" looks caught the
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attention of the general public and went slightly mainstream. This change in men's dress from drab to debonair in the 60s during the Peacock Revolution showcased an effect on the adoption of gay men's dress style by the non-gay, male population. During the youthquake era, the aggressive need to
defend heterosexuality dwindled away more than it ever had before, and so the adaptation of queer style didn't seem as taboo as it would have in the past. Wearing slim-fitting trousers, elaborated brocade jackets, and chiffon blouses caught “the spirit of gay sartorial style from the shadows to the public arena." According to The Guardian,
when David Bowie donned a silk dress for his Man Who Sold The World album cover, it was described as “ravishing... disconcertingly reminiscent of Lauren Bacall." When a blatant display of gender-bending is met with such positiviity, then you know you're headed in the right direction.
Style like its
A man bun with beard to skip the mop-top hairstyle of sixties. Prints are an essential to incorporate in your mufflers, ties or pocket squares, prefered if psychedelic. Try pairing them with soild colors and shades of blues are appreciated. Remember to seek for a balance while constructing a sixties outfit. The essence of 60s is eternal, a new tocuh of self expression never hurts, anyway.
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A 60s INSPIRED SUMMER DRINK!
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A 60s Escape for Gender Non-Conformists.
Casa Susanna
In the late 1950s and early 60s, Tito Valenti, a court translator, and his wife Marie, who had a wig shop in Manhattan, transformed a property they had purchased with land deep in the Catskills near Hunter, New York, into a welcoming, non-judgemental resort for gender-nonconforming individuals. The couple named the hideaway Casa Susanna, using the name Tito went by when he dressed as a woman. Attendees of Casa Susanna would take photographs, and docu-
ment their experiences, which speaks about the freedom they felt within its confines. However, relatively little is known about this community, hence, it’s difficult today to attribute any label to its members. They referred to themselves at the time as transvestites but you wouldn’t necessarily use that term now. We would call it gender non-conforming, because we don’t know whether they were men who
dressed as women sometimes or whether they became transgender or did undergo gender reassignment surgery. The photographic records of Casa Susanna in this way shows that the people who visited this place were able to explore what it means to be women. There are pictures of them holding Vogue magazine and things like that, so we know that they’re looking for notions of what femininity was, and they were playing with those guises.
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OP E N OP E N OP E N 28
to usher fashion
After a decade of cinched waists, full skirts and impeccable hair and makeup, many fashion traditions were broken in an act of rebellion, mirroring the momentous social and political changes of the decade. The credit goes to courageous icons, who took the world head-on and decided to dictate a new league of fashion with their astounding taste and the spirit of experimenting.
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The fab four and fashion. A rock band formed in Liverpool, 1960. The line-up of John Lennon, Paul McCartney, George Harrison and Ringo Starr. Although they made a statement with whatsoever they wore, but Tusa nis quatem issincia cuptasp ediorro ilia volu
mop-top haircut was something everyone from that decade remembers. It is bowl shaped, and shaggy haircut.
1960 the beatle boot A variant of the Chelsea boots which are of ankel helight slip on boots with elasticated side panels. Beatle boots are tight-fitting, Cuban-heeled, ankle-high boots with a sharp pointed toe. The style can feature either elastic or zipped sides. They were not only chic but they are to be credited for reintroducing high-heeled footwear for men. The boots saw a surge of popularity during the punk movement in the late 1970s and early 1980s but soon decilned.
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The Rolling Stones are an English rock band formed in London in 1962. The first stable line-up consisted of bandleader Brian Jones (guitar, harmonica, keyboards), Mick Jagger (lead vocals, harmonica), Keith Richards (guitar, vocals), Bill Wyman (bass), Charlie Watts (drums), and Ian Stewart (piano).
dishevelled looks Well, dishevelled looks were a perfect reflection of their musical output as well as the zeitgeist of the era. The messy was adapted in mass.
androgynous
1962
All five on the stage were breathtaking and were setting benchmark with their performances and costumes. But it was Mick Jagger who gained more popularity and became the fashion icon. Although, it wasn’t only Mick’s choice of clothes that made him a fashion icon in the Sixties and Seventies, but also his upending of gender norms. There’s just the right dash of effeminacy provided by his hair, use of make-up, clothes and, most important of all, the way he’s carrying himself.
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Anita Pallenberg The biggest style influence on the Rolling Stones, and romancing nearly all of them, Italian-born, hard-partying beauty Anita had the quintessential rock chick look - think kohl-rimmed eyes, thigh-high boots, and skin-tight, printed trousers. She was a pioneer of so-called boho deluxe, mixing high boots and miniskirts and chain belts and new romantic blouses; animal print and paisley and florals; billowing sleeves and ribbed knits. She threw it all together with a just-rolledout-of-bed/up-all-night air and dared anyone to comment.
rock chic look She mixed high and low and blended genres with magnetic abandon, and the result had its own gravitational pull.
Jane Birkin
Care free classic Trends will come and go but Jane Birkin’s style will awlays be timeless for many. This free-spirited Blow Up actress’s penchant for care-free classics and laissez-faire spirit got her an instant world recognition in the 60s and let her French-meets-British dressing sense charm amid all. 34
Edie Sedgwick chandelier earrings The wealthy socialite, eye candy of the New York art scene and a certain Andy Warhol’s favourite muse, Edie Sedgwick was the original IT girl. Her good-girl-gone-bad aesthetic, eyeliner, chandelier earrings, mini mod dresses and sheer black tights and the unforgettable crop of platinum hair are remembered by all.
Jean Shrimpton mini skirt In 1960, Jean Shrimpton made the fashion world skip its heart beat. Unlike the other curvaceous models of the 50s, this leggy British brunette mould the field of modelling entirely with her willowy frame. Shrimpton popularized the miniskirt by wearing a very short dress to a horse race in Melbourne. Conservative circles were aghast, but a trend was definitely born.
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Audrey Hepburn How do we love Audrey Hepburn’s 1960s style? Counting the ways… First it was Breakfast at Tiffany’s LBD (1961), paired with movie star shades and a top-handled bag which won hearts. Audrey Hepburn was instantly recognised as a fashion icon of the sixties.
pixie haircut Then came Audrey Hepburn’s off-duty style game. A champion of chic capri pants and ballet pumps, she made drainpipe jeans a style staple off-camera, and rocked a bold pixie haircut.
Twiggy
No 1960s fashion round-up would be complete without mentioning Twiggy, real name Lesley Hornby. Bob hairstyles were huge for 1920s fashion, but this girl cemented an even short hairstyle‘s place in history – the pixie crop. One of the greatest muses of all time, Twiggy quickly rose to supermodel fame, thanks to her paint ’em on thick eyelashes and the boyish style celebrity hairdresser Leonard chopped for her in ’66. Almost overnight she became the face of the decade; instantly recognisable, she’s been immortalised on everything from Andy Warhol screen prints to M&S shopping bags.
pixie haircut
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Jackie Kennedy
pillbox hats Before Michelle Obama and Samantha Cameron, there was Jackie Kennedy Onassis. This fashionable First Lady managed to maintain her style throughout her time in the White House, even though she lived through astonishing tragedies. Jackie’s prim skirt suits, pillbox hats and super-sized dark glasses made her the style inspiration for women across America.
The pink suit she was wearing on the day of her husband’s assassination has gone down in history as one of the most iconic outfits of all time, and is a staple 1960s fashion look.
Cher hippie look
Cher’s blunt bangs, kohl-rimmed eyes and her love of outlandish prints with the widest of flared trousers turned head and, certified her as a fashion icon. The then other half of Sonny and Cher led the way with the bold and the daring, and launched the hippie look with cool Californian style.
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Nearly sixty years after sixties we are still seeking, questioning, and rebelling. Here’s to never allowing the skepticism to stop us. Amen.
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