Food & wine usa march 2016 by Kukas

THE NEW HEALTHY 55 DELICIOUS RECIPES THAT WILL CHANGE HOW YOU COOK

ULTIMATE SOUP

The rice noodles in this Vietnamese chicken soup are naturally gluten-free (p. 66).

HEALTHIEST SNACKS: THE F&W TASTE TEST p. 8

MARCH 2016

BEST NEW WINE-COUNTRY RETREATS p. 28

A SKEPTIC’S FAVORITE NATURAL WINES p. 74

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THE SOOTHING SOUND OF THE OCEAN AND THE GENTLE ROCKING MOTION OF A SHIP aren’t just relaxing—experts have found they’re actually proven to lull you into a restorative night’s sleep. Since that’s essential for good health, Princess Cruises has partnered with board-certiﬁed sleep expert Dr. Michael Breus to create the ultimate sleep experience for your next cruise.

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FOOD & WINE

MARCH 66

52 28

THE HEALTHY ISSUE How to Not: A Guide to Healthy Eating 80 Recipes from the Healthiest Place on Earth 96 13 Editor’s Letter 16 Hungry Crowd Erin Andrews 18 Editors’ Top 10 21 Trendspotting What’s Hot Now 28 Where to Go Next Wellness in Wine Country 34 Healthy Trends Vegan for Everybody 38 Mindful Cooking Two Black Belts in the Kitchen 46 Design & Style The Eﬃcient Kitchen 51 Handbook What to Cook Now 65 The Gastronaut Files DIY Pho 70 Cooking Tools Healthy Gadgets: Goofy or Great? 74 Bottle Service Natural Wine for Naysayers 78 Wine Talk Wine’s Power Forward 114 Most Wanted Jessica Koslow’s Squash and Sprouts Bowl

On the cover: Jimmy Tu’s Chicken Pho (p. 66) from The Gastronaut Files. Photograph by Con Poulos; food styling by Simon Andrews; style editor: Suzie Myers M A R C H 2016

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

clockwise from top left: con poulos; tara pearce; david malosh; david cicconi; courtesy of meadowood napa valley; john kernick. on the cover: bowl by humble ceramics; spoon from tableart

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P rogre ssi v e L e n s e s

RECIPE INDEX

Starters & Soups

Meat & Poultry

● Carrot Hummus p. 110 ● Chicken Pho p. 66 ● ● Giant Frico with Spicy Tomato-Basil

Salsa p. 93 ● Nori Chips p. 108

Satisfies a pizza craving.

Salads

● ● Brussels Sprout Salad with Toasted

Sesame Vinaigrette p. 54 ● ● ● Cabbage-and-Kale Slaw with Toasted Yeast Dressing p. 105 ● Cathal’s Favorite Salad p. 112 ● ● Charred Broccolini and Escarole Salad p. 82 ● Quick-Pickled Vegetable Salad with

Harissa Vinaigrette p. 82 ● Warm Escarole-and-Shiitake Salad

with Crispy Beans p. 44

Hearty, spicy and better than takeout.

Coriander-and-Almond-Crusted Chicken Legs p. 52 ● Crispy Shake-and-Bake Pork p. 95 ● Penang-Style Pork with Soft Tofu p. 44 ● Poached Chicken with Fragrant Herb Vinaigrette p. 42 ● ● Pounded Beef Tenderloin with Hearts of Palm Salad p. 89 Roast Chicken with Pickled Fennel and Candied Walnuts p. 107 ● Short Ribs with Serrano Chimichurri and Jicama-Radish Salad p. 111 ● ● Steamed Bok Choy with Mapo-Style Pork p. 88 ● ● Zucchini Noodles with Chicken and Ginger Dressing p. 84

Fish

Vegetables p. 108

and Mustard Greens p. 54 ● ● ● Crispy Tofu Steaks p. 58 ● ● Green Vegetables with Dukka and

Tahini Dressing p. 100 ● ● Roasted Squash and Mixed Sprouts

Bowl p. 113 ● ● Roasted Sunchokes and Swiss Chard

with Chili Ricotta p. 112 ● ● ● Salt-and-Vinegar French Fries p. 113 ● ● Tofu Masala p. 58

● ● Apricot-Walnut-Date Power Bars

p. 108 ● ● Charred Mango with Ricotta, Honey

and Caramelized Lime p. 110 ● Chocolate Chip Espresso Meringues

p. 62 ● ● Chocolate Chunk Cookie for One p. 110 ● ● Cucumber-and-Mint “Fauxjito” p. 108 ● ● ● Hibiscus-Tangerine Iced Tea p. 92 ● ● It’s a Date! Shake p. 113 ● Lemon-Blueberry Yogurt Loaf Cake

p. 108

Toppings, Dressings & Condiments ● ● ● Candied Walnuts p. 110

Snapper p. 60

● Chinese-Style Braised Mushrooms

● ● ● Apple Cider–Ginger Shrub p. 94

● ● Basil Pesto p. 113

● Fennel-and-Grapefruit-Rubbed ● ● Butternut Squash Steaks au Poivre

Drinks & Desserts

● ● Almond Shortbread Cookies p. 91

● Harissa-Spiced Salmon with Israeli

Couscous p. 60 ● Jerk Trout with Collard Slaw p. 95 Kedgeree with Mango Chutney and Soft-Boiled Eggs p. 99 Red Snapper with Korean Miso Vinaigrette p. 42 ● Spiced Arctic Char with Crushed Sunchokes, Capers and Lemon p. 95

● Cashew Cream p. 36 ● ● Cinnamon Crumb Topping p. 113 ● ● Coconut Whipped Cream p. 36 ● ● ● Creamy Tofu Dressing p. 58 ● Pickled Chiles p. 112 ● ● Serrano Chimichurri p. 112

Pasta, Grains & Rice

Staﬀ-Favorite Pairing

● ● Double Drive-Thru Veggie Burgers

p. 34 ● Gluten-Free Penne with Curry-

Roasted Cauliﬂower and Raisins p. 56 ● ● Oatmeal Souﬄé p. 90 ● ● Seared Tofu Tabbouleh p. 58

You’ll never miss the meat.

● ● Spaghetti with Mushroom Bolognese

p. 86

SPAGHETTI WITH MUSHROOM BOLOGNESE with

SNAP TO SUBSCRIBE TO FOOD & WINE FOR $1 PER ISSUE!

An earthy Nebbiolo: 2013 Ar.Pe.Pe. Rosso di Valtellina (p. 86).

recipe key M A R C H 2016

fast Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

vegetarian Contains no meat, poultry or seafood.

staff favorite Recipe we especially love.

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

con poulos

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Just because you don’t see it, doesn’t mean it isn’t there. Introducing the newly redesigned Volkswagen Passat with Blind Spot Monitor, one of seven available Driver Assistance features.* Passat. Where family happens.

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Healthy snacks: Here, the seven winners of a massive staff taste test.

s.v.p./editor in chief Dana Cowin creative director executive managing editor executive editor deputy editor executive food editor executive wine editor digital director

Fredrika Stjärne Mary Ellen Ward Pamela Kaufman Christine Quinlan Tina Ujlaki Ray Isle Alex Vallis

feat ures fo o d restaurant editor Kate Krader deputy digital editor Lawrence Marcus senior editor Justine Sterling style editor Suzie Myers associate editors

1. 1915 Bolthouse Farms Juice Affordable cold-pressed juices from a family of California carrot farmers. $4.50 for 12 oz.; 1915organic.com.

Carson Demmond (Wine), Noah Kaufman, Chelsea Morse assistant editor Brianna Wippman editorial assistants Morgan Goldberg, Annie P. Quigley wine intern Shadia Alame

food director Kate Heddings test kitchen senior editors

Justin Chapple, Kay Chun test kitchen associate editor Anna Painter assistant editor Julia Heffelfinger test kitchen assistant Emily Tylman intern Sammy Goldfien

a rt art director James Maikowski associate art director Kelly McGuire designer Mark Romero

co py & resea rc h copy chief Elizabeth Herr senior editor Amanda Woytus associate research editor

Erin Laverty Healy new york university food studies intern

Ryan Harrington

5. Bonga Foods Baobab Chews African baobab fruit gives these gummies a nutrient boost. $11 for 4 oz.; bongafoods.com.

p h oto photo editor Sara Parks associate photo editor Elizabeth Blomster photo assistant Rebecca Delman

production Joseph Colucci (Director), Patrick Sheehan,

bo o ks Nestor Cervantes, David Richey editor Susan Choung intern Kate Malczewski

associate digital producer Elsa Säätelä

associate managing editor Kerianne Hansen

2. Three Jerks Jerky

chefs - i n - res i d e n ce Grant Achatz, Hugh Acheson, José Andrés, Mario Batali, April Bloomﬁeld, Anthony Bourdain, David Chang, Roy Choi, Jacques Pépin, Eric Ripert, Andrew Zimmern

co n t ri buto rs Daniel Duane, Paolo Lucchesi, Ivy Manning, Amanda McClements, Jim Meehan, Erin Murray, Amy Rosen, Jane Sigal, Jennifer Sommer, Emily Kaiser Thelin, Gisela Williams

6. Biena Sea Salt Chickpea Snacks Light, crispy and baked, not fried. $4.50 for 5 oz.; bienafoods.com.

t i m e i n c.

3. Unbound Pickling Crunchy Oregon-grown pickles with a kick of fresh habanero. $10 for 32 oz.; unboundpickling.com.

chief executive officer Joseph Ripp chief content officer Norman Pearlstine executive vice president Evelyn Webster executive vice president, chief financial officer Jeﬀ Bairstow executive vice presidents

Rich Battista, Lynne Biggar, Colin Bodell, Mark Ford, Greg Giangrande, Lawrence A. Jacobs, Evelyn Webster

co m m un i cat i o n s senior vice presidents Daniel Kile, Scott Novak director Elizabeth Curtis Marsh

o p e rat i o n s vice president Jerry Faust makeup, positioning and production manager Jamie Elliott ad production specialist Abhinandan Jayaraju

hu m a n resources

4. Maya Kaimal Naan Chips

vice president Stacie Sullivan manager Jen Bradway

An Indian take on the everything-bagel chip. $4 for 6 oz.; mayakaimal.com.

7. I Heart Keenwah Aged Cheddar Quinoa Puﬀs Cheese puffs get a healthy makeover with quinoa. $3.50 for 3 oz.; iheartkeenwah.com.

Occasionally, FOOD & WINE makes portions of our magazine subscriber lists available to carefully screened companies that offer special products and services. Any subscriber who does not want to receive mailings from third-party companies should contact Subscriber Services at 800-333-6569 or write to: TCS, P.O. Box 62160, Tampa, FL 33662-2160. FOOD & WINE is a trademark of Time Inc. Afﬂuent Media Group, registered in the U.S. and other countries. For reprint information, contact: PARS International Corp., 212-221-9595 or reprints@parsintl.com; magreprints.com. FOOD & WINE Cookbooks Service, 800-284-4145.

printed in the u.s.a.

1: bolthouse farms; 2: three jerks jerky; 3: kathryn hancock; 4: michael kraus; 5: caliendo photography; 6: courtesy of biena chickpeas; 7: i heart keenwah, iheartkeenwah.com

travel correspondent Nikki Ekstein

The filet mignon of beef jerky. $12 for 2 oz.; threejerksjerky.com.

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La Placita de Santurce, San Juan

Playuela Beach, Cabo Rojo

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SEEPUERTORICO.COM

See Puerto Rico

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» s.v.p./publisher Christina Grdovic Baltz v.p./associate publisher v.p./digital executive director of marketing

a dvert is ing sa l es new york sales office 212-522-2285 account directors Leora Kulak, Jodisue Rosen advertising director, digital Jennifer Bayard director, digital account services Randy Pease digital sales directors Caroline Donohue, Whitney Frahm digital sales manager Sasha Kravetz senior account executive, local/regional Jared Feinman digital account executive Anna Pepe associate director, digital creative services Jillian Nugent senior manager, digital creative services Jennifer Bowman associate manager, digital creative services

Francesca Scutari

Randy Pease

manager, sales planning Jen Scherr digital sales planners

I ride my bike to work every day.

Shari Brown, Becky Carroll, Michael Pescuma manager, digital account services Kaitlin O’Brien digital account manager Lauren Corvasce sales assistants Sophie Doering, Kellyn McCarthy

b ra nch of f i ces detroitdetrodddetroit 248-988-7763 director Diane Paglino assistant Nichole Livingston

Hannah McHale I eat very clean when I cook for myself, so that when I go out I can splurge.

los angelesouthwest 310-268-7644 southwest account director Jennifer Fan digital account director Jessica Neal sales assistant Anjani Joshi midwestfffmidwest 312-321-7909 account director Hannah McHale digital account manager Angela Raile sales assistant Sophie Swarthout san francisco

415-496-2700 director Steve Dveris account managers

Jennifer Banks

Jennifer Banks, Sydney Brody

Running works the best for me. I throw my son in my Bob stroller and go. He falls asleep, and I stay in shape. Everyone wins.

southeast 404-888-1960 director Stephen Wolek florida/caribbean & central/ south america

305-648-3338 director Jill Stone managers Eric Davis, Michael Fenkell,

Rachel Sanders texas 214-368-2001 directors Jamie Majecki, Jeanne Milligan hawaii 808-377-1900 director Liane Sunn canada 905-885-0664 directors Bob Dodd, Lori Dodd account manager Leslie Thomas mexico 011-52-55-5202-6412 director Pablo Glogovsky

Rachel Sanders I mix it up with boot camp, Vixen workouts, yoga and running to allow for indulgences like chocolate and wine.

united kingdom 011-44-20-3263-6120 director Jeremy Butchers italy 011-39-031-267-797 managing director Emilio Zerboni

d ig ita l m e d i a general manager, digital lifestyle Mike Rich senior channel development managers Christopher Stuss,

Alisa Warshawski

digital assets & rights associate director Jeniqua Moore manager Erika Nusser Reilly associate manager Tawana Porter

t ime inc. p re m e d i a executive director Rick Prue senior manager Lionel Vargas senior associate Yasmin Herrera

Joseph Messer Nick Van Sicklen Vanessa Feimer Davis

m a rke t i n g brand marketing director Sonia Zala Spina senior brand marketing manager Shanette Vega brand marketing manager Swathi Reddy events marketing director Diella Koberstein Allen events marketing associate Amanda Meier events marketing assistant Sarah Ensign integrated marketing director

Keira Ford Schuler senior integrated marketing managers

Ashley Burke, Antonia LoPresti Giglio integrated marketing manager Leslie Rubin integrated marketing associates

Erin Kenney, Rachel Starnes creative director Rory Tischler senior designer Jon Varriano designer Kate Meadows graphic designer Adam Hitt marketing assistant Luis Zepeda special projects director Gail Simmons special projects producer Devin Padgett

t i m e i n c. a dve rt i s i n g group publisher Charles R. Kammerer s.v.p., advertising sales & marketing

Andy Blau (ﬁnance)

Christina Grdovic Baltz Lots of homemade green juice to increase my vegetable and nutrient intake.

Keira Ford Schuler I go to SoulCycle for Rique’s class before work–it clears my head for the busy day ahead.

Jon Varriano I use a minimal amount of simple syrup when making cocktails. Works like a charm.

s.v.p., corporate sales Mark Ellis s.v.p., editorial innovation Matt Bean s.v.p., chief data officer JT Kostman v.p., digital Dan Realson v.p., creative director Cara Deoul Perl v.p., marketing & sales development Cheryl DiMartino v.p., database marketing Mary Wojciechowski v.p., marketing ad solutions Steve Cambron v.p., business research & insights Caryn Klein v.p., digital ad operations Nancy Mynio v.p., yield and programmatic Kavata Mbondo

vi d eo senior vice president JR McCabe

aud i e n ce d eve lo p m e n t associate director Heather Thompson senior e-newsletter producer Duangkaew Randall coordinator Stacey Harrington

co n sum e r m a rke t i n g senior vice president Stephen Selwood vice presidents Rachel Osborne, Stephanie Solomon senior director Melissa Mahoney director Alexis Mate consumer insight director Richard Zartarian senior manager Mike Colby managers Jennifer Flynn, Alberto Rodriguez associate managers Katherine Cabe, Lauren Evans

C. Daniel Kawasaki I run Tough Mudder races.

f i n a n ce senior vice president Alison Fried vice president Keith Strohmeier executive director C. Daniel Kawasaki associate finance director Brad Scharﬀ managers Lorri D’Amico, Seema Varghese analyst Katie Leonard

l ega l a f fa i rs v.p./deputy general counsel

Steven Weissman director Jane Halpern

technology & product engineering cto/executive vice president Colin Bodell vice presidents Alam Ali, Linda Apsley,

Adam Days, Robert Duﬀy, Amanda Hanes, Hugues Hervouet, Simon Loxham, Leon Misiukiewicz, Keith O’Sullivan, Ben Ramadan, Ashis Roy, Eric Schoonover, Vita Sheehy, Jimmie Tomei

Jane Halpern I shred the slopes in Vermont, then relax après-ski with a Sauvignon Blanc.

clockwise from top right: westend61/getty images; mindstyle/getty images; y2jimbob/getty images; gregor halenda; dan prince/getty images; con poulos; dougal waters/getty images

Staff secrets: How do you stay fit and balanced working at Food & Wine?

Lower carbs. Fewer calories. Exceptional taste.

Brewed for those who

go the extra mile.

life is eating, laughing, loving and a place to enjoy it together.

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EDITOR’S LETTER

we pride ourselves on always looking ahead. But, just this once, I’m going to use this space to look back as I step down as editor in chief after 21 years. To assist me in this daunting task, I asked my friend Mario Batali to conduct an exit interview, excerpted below (the photo of Mario with Jimmy Fallon and me is from one of my favorite F&W stories ever). But I’ll stay connected with this incredible brand and with you, dear reader, as I head to Chefs Club by Food & Wine, a restaurant concept created in partnership with F&W. At its locations in New York and Aspen, Chefs Club curates the best chef dishes from around the country and the world on one great menu. Please stay in touch; I’ll forever be @fwscout!

MARIO: Do you think back on trends that you’re embarrassed you championed in Food & Wine? DANA: I’m more embarrassed by the trends I missed. About 10 years ago, I was at a culinary school giving a talk and afterward some brave person in the front row asked, “So, do you publish any vegan recipes?” And I said, “No. You know, we’ve just never found any vegan recipes that we like.” And she said, “You just wait. I recently published a vegan cookbook with some of the best chefs, and they have really good recipes.” And I was like, “No way.”

MARIO: Besides the size of your expense account, what has changed the most about Food & Wine? DANA: Over the past 20 years, the rate at which we’ve introduced new ideas has sped up. Change in the food world used to be slower, and now I feel as if there’s something new every single day.

michael turek

MARIO: What about the dreaded task of putting the magazine to bed. Did that get any easier? DANA: Closing issues got a whole lot easier. Over the 20-year arc I went from being a complete and total control freak to just being controlling. Stay in Touch F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

@fwscout

T FOOD & WINE,

MARIO: That’s because you hired the right people. Having really great editors, photo editors, designers—it takes the pressure off you, yet the pressure’s still on you. DANA: It’s about really giving the talented people more room to run, and sometimes doing things diﬀerently than what I had in my mind’s eye, in a way that’s even better—I love that. I love when someone on the team comes back to me and says, “OK, I understand what you want, but here’s how we can take that idea much further.”

MARIO: Would you say you can classify, over the past 20 years, several eras of food styles? DANA: There was the moment the pig was invented, and we all noticed. And there was the moment that vegetables were invented, and we all noticed. Same with foraging, fermentation and other preservation techniques. It’s sort of crazy because, of course, all these things existed forever.

MARIO: Since the planet started. OK, to change the subject: How many nights a week do you eat out? DANA: I eat out two nights a week. The other nights, when I’m home, I probably @fwscout

facebook.com/foodandwine 13

scrounge around for something to eat in my refrigerator since I’ve usually tasted Test Kitchen recipes all day. The food arrives on my desk every two hours or so.

MARIO: If you were talking to a young Dana Cowin, what would you tell her to do and not to do? DANA: I’d say, no matter what, stay true to who you believe your readers are. There’s so much pressure in so many diﬀerent directions and, at the end of the day, if you’re not satisfying those readers—if they’re not cooking recipes, if they’re not getting the information they want—then you are never going to succeed. Don’t get lazy. Don’t think you’re ever done. You’re never done. It’s never perfect. It can always be better. And it constantly needs to evolve.

MARIO: So, you’ve been in the food industry for over 20 long, strong, powerful, inﬂuential years. What do you think will be your legacy? DANA: I am the original chef fan girl, and my team has enthusiastically embraced that vision. We have helped usher in the era of chef and restaurant obsession by relentlessly showcasing the best of the new. pinterest.com/foodandwine M A R C H 2016

a dve r t i s e m e n t

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Erin Andrews covers sports on TV, co-hosts Dancing with the Stars and drinks Pinot Grigio with hockey players in Italy. EGG ENCOURAGEMENT

PINOT GRIGIO FOR BIG GUYS

My girlfriend recently taught me how to make a Spanish fried egg. You shake the pan while you spoon olive oil over the egg as it’s folding over onto itself. If you say “Give it a home, give it a home” as you shake the pan, which is what my friend says, it seems to help a lot.

My boyfriend and I started drinking Pinot Grigio. The other Canadian hockey players were like, “We won’t drink that.” Then we all went to Italy and drank Pinot Grigio together on the Amalﬁ Coast.

MARIO BATALI THROWDOWN

I was on The Chew, which I found to be the most nerve-racking situation ever. Mario asked me to lay asparagus down for him as we were making a ﬁsh dish. I was trying to lay it down perfectly in the pan, and he was like, “No, no, no, just throw it.”

ENGAGEMENT CHICKEN

One thing I love about Ina Garten is that you can watch her videos online. I’ll sit with my laptop and make Engagement Chicken with her. She swears it works [to get your boyfriend to propose]. BEST STADIUM FOOD

In Boston, Fenway Franks at a Red Sox game are the best. The garlic fries where the Giants play in San Francisco are insanely amazing.

DATING A PRO HOCKEY PLAYER

My boyfriend [Jarret Stoll of the Minnesota Wild] eats pretty healthy, but he’ll have ice cream and Froot Loops before he goes to bed. He has no body fat, which is really frustrating. I gained the “relationship 10 pounds” when the two of us ﬁrst started dating.

M A R C H 2016

DANCING WITH THE STARS DREAM

I would love to have Gordon Ramsay compete on the show. It would be great to have some of that aggression and personality. INTERVIEW BY CHRISTINE QUINLAN

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

from left: antonis achilleos; dan macmedan/contour by getty images; simon watson/trunk archive

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Ships’ Registry: The Netherlands

EDITORS’ TOP 10

Objects of Our Obsession 1. FOOD JEWELRY

6. ESPRESSO MAKER

Chefs sometimes tattoo their favorite ingredients on their arms. These leather bracelets, available in 22 designs, are less of a commitment. From $75 each; delicaciesjewelry.com. —Kate Heddings

Brewing espresso on the stove feels so old-school except when I’m using Alessi’s curvy new Pulcina model. The brewing system took 15 years to perfect. From $80; alessi.com. —SM

7. IRISH BUTTER

My favorite rich, creamy butter now comes in easy-tomeasure sticks for baking. $3 for 8 oz.; kerrygoldusa.com.

3. ROASTING PAN

Anyone who’s fallen for Top Chef host and cookbook author Padma Lakshmi will want to read her new autobiography, Love, Loss, and What We Ate. $27. —Dana Cowin

4. SILVERWARE SET

This sculptural piece looks like a fancy egg, but it actually holds a 24-piece set of silverplated ﬂatware. $1,000; christoﬂe.com. —Suzie Myers

—CQ

8. DISHY MEMOIR

9. CHOCOLATE MINTS

Heavenly Organics’ minimalist, not-toosweet candies have just three ingredients: unsweetened dark chocolate, raw white honey and peppermint oil. $25 for 40 pieces; amazon.com. —KH

10. NEW MIAMI BEACH HOTEL

Faena is all about star power, with food by chefs Paul Qui and Francis Mallmann and design by ﬁlmmakers Baz Luhrmann and Catherine Martin.

5. TEA RX

This adorable survival kit with tea and honey is the perfect gift for my sister in frigid Chicago. $25; davidstea.com. —JH

DOUBLES FROM $745; FAENA . COM . M A R C H 2016

— CQ

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

1: j. tyner studio; 2: courtesy of clif family kitchen; 3: cristel france; 4: christofle; 5: davids tea; 6: courtesy of alessi, alessi.com; 10: courtesy of faena

2. SPICED NUTS

I eat these crunchy, smoky, darkchocolate-covered almonds with cocktails and for dessert. $10 for 5 oz.; cliffamilywinery.com. —Julia Heffelﬁnger The upright handles on Cristel’s tri-ply pan make a big difference in helping me hoist heavy roasts out of my oven. $230; bloomingdales.com. —Christine Quinlan

NOUVEAU. CHIC.

INTRODUCING THE ALL-NEW RX HYBRID The RX 450h reimagines hybrid performance and design. A 30-MPG combined rating1 and 308 total system horsepower2 elevate performance. An available touch-free power rear door and 12.3-inch Navigation screen put convenience at the forefront. And available F SPORT styling allows you to go anywhere but unnoticed. The RX 450h from Lexus. Never has luxury been this expressive.

lexus.com/RX | #LexusRX

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WHAT’S HOT NOW

TREND SPOTTING Carrot tops Christiansen believes in root-to-stalk cooking.

Onion jam A classic accompaniment to pâté; Christiansen’s changes with the seasons.

ANATOMY OF A DISH

CHICKEN LIVER TART

Onion powder Yellow onions—dried, baked and pulverized— resemble soil.

F&W Best New Chef 2015 Jim Christiansen, of Heyday in Minneapolis, has taken a French picnic staple–chicken liver pâté–and transformed it. His elegant chicken liver tart is also a showcase for in-season vegetables. “It’s a labor-intensive dish considering how simple it looks,” he says. “When we get 10 orders at once there are a lot of hands moving really fast to make them.” 2700 Lyndale Ave. S.; heydayeats.com.

Pickled radishes

eliesa johnson

Christiansen pickles raw radishes so they’re tangy.

BY CHRISTINE QUINLAN F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

M A R C H 2016

CHEF TRICKS

Three chefs reveal how they bump up the ﬂavor in healthy dishes and replace the richness of fat.

SAVORY OATMEAL

LOWER-FAT VINAIGRETTE

“You can add just about anything to oatmeal and eat it any time of day. Instead of brown sugar and milk, I like to add tomato sauce and Parmesan or cook the oatmeal in dashi and add miso paste.”

“I blend a little bit of xanthan gum (1⁄2 teaspoon per quart of dressing) and water (13⁄4 cups) with high-quality oil and vinegar.”

SALSA VERDE “I make a big batch with tomatillos, cilantro and avocado for creaminess. I leave it in my fridge so I can use it to top seafood, grains, eggs and other dishes that need some tang.”

MATTHEW ACCARRINO, SPQR, SAN FRANCISCO

AMALIA SCATENA, CANNON GREEN, CHARLESTON, SC

SANG YOON, LUKSHON, L.A.

Civitavecchia (near Rome)

CRUDITÉ COMEBACK

Dubrovnik, Croatia

Sarandë, Albania

THE ’50S PARTY STANDBY has become a chef favorite, especially in New York. Santina, Little Park, NoMad, Boulud Sud and The Little Beet Table are serving raw vegetables on trays of ice like oysters, in mounds of faux dirt or in pots like a plant. Alongside are dips like feta mousse, mint raita and boiledpeanut hummus.

Corfu, Greece

Katákolon (Olympia), Greece

Cruise News Adam D. Tihany (left), who has designed restaurants for Thomas Keller and Daniel Boulud, brings his visual genius to Holland America Line’s new Koningsdam. The ship, which sets sail next month (above), also boasts a large culinary center and a greenhouse. hollandamerica.com.

Santina uses a terra-cotta pot to serve crudités like crispy greens, baby carrots and radishes.

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

illustration: ben wiseman. photographs: bottom, from left: david cicconi; alex weber

Naples

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Trendspotting

What’s Hot Now

[ HEALTHY APPS ]

230,000 RESTAURANT WORKERS IN METRO ATLANTA

328 NEARLY

17%

OF RESTAURANT EMPLOYEES LIVE IN POVERTY

At Staplehouse, dishes such as smoked lamb shoulder, TOP, raise money for workers in crisis.

CRISIS GRANTS

Some apps do a good job of tracking food intake; others excel at monitoring calories burned. The MyFitnessPal site and app, recently acquired by Under Armour, successfully integrates the two. myﬁtnesspal.com. Goal: 72 oz. The HIDRATESPARK WATER BOTTLE (right) lets you create your own daily drinking goals, keeps track of your progress and even glows to remind you to take a sip. $60; hidratespark.com.

50% 11/2 bottles to go

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450 RESTAURANTS SUPPORT THE NONPROFIT

WILD GUIDE CELESTINE MADDY couldn’t ﬁnd a magazine for young people who wanted to engage with nature—even if only in a tiny Brooklyn backyard. So she created her own quarterly publication, Wilder. Now, she’s sharing her ideas in a book co-written with Abbye Churchill, A Wilder Life, in which she describes ways to make the great outdoors part of one’s everyday—from prepping homemade elderﬂower Champagne to navigating by the night sky. ANNIE P. QUIGLEY

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

WHEN chef Ryan Hidinger was diagnosed with cancer, the Atlanta food community raised nearly $300,000 to help. Now his widow, Jen, is giving back with Staplehouse, a restaurant that donates its proﬁts to food-service workers in crisis through The Giving Kitchen.

MEAL PLAN

STAPLEHOUSE, ATLANTA

WIRED BOTTLE

Cooking for Change

Every week, subscribers to the COOKING LIGHT DIET get an email with recipes for three meals and two snacks daily, all based on the number of calories they choose. F&W’s favorite part: You can substitute a glass of wine for a snack. cookinglight.com.

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9:57 pm Chefs Michael Symon, Michael Chiarello Christopher Kostow, Dean Fearing Lexus Remix Dinner Pebble Beach, California

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WHERE TO GO NEXT

The new Six Senses Hotel Douro Valley attracts every level of yogi.

Wellness in Wine Country

2. Spa at Monteverdi WINE REGION: TUSCANY

NEARBY WINERIES: BIONDI SANTI, SALCHETO, TENUTA VALDIPIATTA

An obsession with Renaissance art kept sending Ohio attorney Michael Cioffi to Tuscany until, finally, he discovered the crumbling town of Castiglioncello del Trinoro in 2006. Ever since, he has been renovating the tiny village, starting with a few villas, followed by a hotel. Then, last summer, Cioffi turned an old stone granary into a dreamy spa. Treatments include wine baths in outdoor soaking tubs, facials and salt scrubs that utilize Tuscan herbs, and massages using ingredients like grapeseed oil, olive oil and chocolate from the surrounding Val d’Orcia.

THE BEST NEW SPA RETREATS RANGE FROM A 12TH-CENTURY PROVENÇAL CASTLE TO A SONOMA FARMHOUSE INN. BY MEGAN KRIGBAUM

PORTUGAL 1. Six Senses Spa Douro Valley

WINE REGION: DOURO VALLEY NEARBY WINERIES: QUINTA VALE D. MARIA, QUINTA DO CRASTO, QUINTA DO VALLADO

Six Senses owns wellnessfocused resorts around the world, but this is its ﬁrst in wine country. The 57-room 19th-century manor house and its seven new villas (two with private pools) are set in terraced vineyards that drop down to the winding Douro River. The 24,000-square-foot spa has 10 treatment rooms M A R C H 2016

staﬀed by a rotating roster of over 100 experts; there are teachers for every level of yogi as well as a dedicated Yogic Sleep Program. Outside the spa walls, Six Senses oﬀers forest bathing, a Japanese practice that involves a walk through the woods followed by a cool-water soak. Guests can also take cooking classes with chef Paulo Matos in his hearth-centric kitchen, using organic vegetables and fruit from the property, or taste local bottlings with sommelier Hélio Lima in the rustic-modern wine library. Guest rooms from $273 per night; sixsenses.com.

An ancient Tuscan village is now home to the Spa at Monteverdi.

After a session at the spa, guests can have a meal at the village enoteca, Oreade, where chef Giancarla Bodoni shows her ﬁerce commitment to organic ingredients. Her food, featuring local signatures like Chianina beef, pairs well with the restaurant’s wine collection, heavy on Brunellos from nearby Montalcino. Guest rooms from $600 per night; monteverdituscany.com.

3. Verdura Resort

WINE REGION: MENFI, SICILY NEARBY WINERIES: PLANETA, TASCA D’ALMERITA, TENUTA RAPITALA

This location of Rocco Forte resorts is the ﬁrst with a spa and a spa dining menu (more will roll out throughout Europe). The focus at the spa is thalassotherapy, which aims to expel toxins and

from top: courtesy of six senses hotels resorts spas; bernard touillon

ITALY

Relax in paradise. Florida is the perfect place for a one-of-a-kind vacation, where you can pamper yourself in natural springs and bask in natureâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s beauty.

Where to Go Next

Wellness in Wine Country

As at Meadowood’s Michelin-starred restaurant, the spa menu uses vegetables grown on-site.

improve lymphatic health via soaks in diﬀerent outdoor pools ﬁlled with water of varying temperatures and salt levels. As for the spa dining menu, Fulvio Pierangelini incorporates organic vegetables and grains from the property’s farm, and sea bream, cod, squid and tiger prawns from waters that are visible from the grounds. Guest rooms from $248 per night; roccofortehotels.com.

SPAIN 4. Santuario LeDomaine WINE REGION: RIBERA DEL DUERO NEARBY WINERIES: ABADÍA RETUERTA, FINCA TORREMILANOS, TINOT PESQUERA

Abadía Retuerta, an estate with almost 900 years of history in Ribera del Duero, launched LeDomaine hotel four years ago. Soon after that, its restaurant, Refectorio, won a Michelin star under famed Spanish chef Andoni Luis Aduriz. And last summer, the resort converted the stable of its ancient abbey into eight guest rooms with direct access to a new 10,000-square-foot underground spa. Chef Pablo Montero designed the spa menu, with dishes like grilled leeks with romesco. Guest rooms from $469 per night; ledomaine.es.

M A R C H 2016

FRANCE

(two for couples). Every treatment begins with a cup of organic Soothe tea from Ikaati. After a hot stone massage and black-walnut scrub, guests can order from spa chef Victoria Acosta’s menu of healthy snacks, like dried persimmons and pears, or have a more substantive meal such as grape leaves stuﬀed with forbidden rice, olives and cured lemons. Guest rooms from $500 per night; meadowood.com.

5. La Bastide de Gordes WINE REGION: PROVENCE

NEARBY WINERIES: DOMAINE DE FENOUILLET, DOMAINE MAS DE LA DAME, DOMAINE MAS DE GOURGONNIER

When it reopened last summer after a major renovation, the 12th-century Bastide de Gordes castle debuted 40 Louis XV-style rooms, a Pierre Gagnaire restaurant and a three-story spa from Parisian beauty company Sisley. Guests can relax by one of the four swimming pools or have a massage. Or, to explore rosé country, they can rent a Citroën 2CV from the hotel that comes packed with a picnic. Guest rooms from $214 per night; bastide-de-gordes.com.

concoct treatments using lavender and mint from the inn’s culinary gardens or, in the spring, blackberry honey from Catherine’s ranch. Afterward, guests can sip seasonal shrubs while lounging on a massive porch swing. Guest rooms from $545; farmhouseinn.com. Megan Krigbaum, the former deputy wine editor at Food & Wine, is now a contributing editor at punchdrink.com.

7. Farmhouse Inn Spa WINE REGION: SONOMA

NEARBY WINERIES: IRON HORSE, KOSTA BROWNE, RED CAR

The sibling owners of this fantastic 25-room inn, Joe and Catherine Bartolomei, are champions of Sonoma wine: setting guests up with bespoke visits to top Russian River Valley producers; working with sommelier Allyson Gorsuch to curate a remarkable Sonoma wine list for their restaurant; and making their own Lost & Found Pinot Noir from their family vineyards. At their new spa, therapists

CALIFORNIA 6. Meadowood Spa

WINE REGION: NAPA VALLEY NEARBY WINERIES: CORISON, LONG MEADOW RANCH, SMITH-MADRONE

With its luxurious cottages hidden in the woods, just oﬀ Napa Valley’s busy wine trail, and its restaurant by F&W Best New Chef 2009 Chris Kostow, Meadowood is all about seclusion and indulgence. In that spirit, the resort recently opened a new wellness center with eight private spa suites 30

Sonoma’s Farmhouse Inn Spa looks like a fancy barn.

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

clockwise from top left: courtesy of meadowood napa valley (2); cesar rubio

“After a blackwalnut scrub, guests can order a healthy spa snack or a more substantive meal.”

Savor the dark with your favorite pairing

IN T ENSE DARK

EVERY THU 9|8c

#TopChef

california

Going back to Cali.

HEALTHY TRENDS

Vegan for Everybody THE MOVEMENT IS GOING MAINSTREAM, LED BY TALENTED COOKS WHO UNDERSTAND HOW PEOPLE REALLY WANT TO EAT. HERE’S THE PROOF, WHETHER YOU WANT TO GO OUT, ORDER IN OR MAKE DINNER FROM A KIT. BY JULIA HEFFELFINGER

1. Make the sauce In a blender, puree the tofu with the ketchup, mustard, agave and garlic until smooth. Transfer the sauce to a bowl and stir in the pickle relish and dill; season with salt and refrigerate. 2. Make the burgers In a large nonstick skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of the oil. Add the onion and cook over moderate heat until lightly browned, 6 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until softened, 2 minutes; season with salt. Scrape the onion and garlic into a food processor. Add the rice, lentils, walnuts, flour and dried basil and pulse until the mixture just comes together and whole grains of rice are still visible; season with salt and pepper. Using lightly oiled hands, press 1/3 cup of the mixture into a 1/2-inch-thick patty; transfer to a plate. Repeat with the remaining mixture for a total of 8 patties.

Vegan chef Chloe Coscarelli, a surprise winner of TV’s Cupcake Wars, is the force behind By Chloe, a stylish, plant-based diner in New York City. Customers line up for dishes like sweet potato mac and cheese with shiitake bacon. Even ferocious meat eaters come for her veggie burgers, thanks to the smoky char on the lentil-and-brownrice patties. 185 Bleecker St.; bychefchloe.com.

BURGERS

Double Drive-Thru Veggie Burgers

5 Tbsp. canola oil

Total 45 min; Makes 4

1 onion, ﬁnely chopped

In addition to her beet ketchup, Chloe Coscarelli tops these burgers with a vegan Thousand Island dressing that she makes with soft tofu.

2 garlic cloves, minced Kosher salt and pepper 1 cup cooked brown rice One 15-oz. can cooked lentils, rinsed and drained

SAUCE

1 cup toasted walnuts

6 oz. soft tofu, cubed

½ cup all-purpose ﬂour

3 Tbsp. ketchup

1 tsp. dried basil

1 Tbsp. yellow mustard

4 hamburger buns plus 4 bun bottoms, toasted

1 tsp. agave 1 garlic clove

4. Spread the sauce on 4 of the bun bottoms and top with 4 patties and half of the burger toppings; top with the remaining bun bottoms. Repeat the layering once more, with more sauce and the remaining patties, toppings and the bun tops; serve. WINE Bright and spicy Zinfandel:

2013 Stuhlmuller Vineyards.

Tomato slices, dill pickle chips, lettuce and thinly sliced red onion, for topping

2 Tbsp. sweet pickle relish 1 Tbsp. chopped fresh dill

david cicconi

Restaurant

3. Wipe out the skillet and heat 1½ tablespoons of the oil in it. Arrange 4 burger patties in the pan and cook over moderately high heat until browned on the bottom, about 5 minutes. Flip the patties and continue cooking until browned and heated through, about 5 minutes longer. Transfer the patties to a work surface. Repeat with the remaining oil and burger patties.

Kosher salt

M A R C H 2016

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

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Healthy Trends

Vegan for Everybody

Meal Delivery PURPLE CARROT Former New York Times food columnist Mark Bittman masterminds the recipes for this meal subscription service. It supplies pre-prepped ingredients for dishes like a tagine of Delicata squash and chickpeas. thepurplecarrot.com.

Rawsome Treats’ Watt Sriboonruang, a Muay Thai ﬁghter, makes incredible raw and vegan desserts. Buy cakes like this red velvet–inspired one at rawsometreats.com.

SAKARA These packaged meals, presented as three-, ﬁve- and 20-day vegan “cleanses,” have a following of Victoria’s Secret models. sakaralife.com.

Groceries Freeze-dried raspberries

These eight new vegan foods were the winners of an F&W taste test.

MAC AND CHEESE

The pasta is gluten-free. us.daiyafoods.com.

ALMOND-MILK ICE CREAM

Cashew “cream cheese”

Cocoa powder tinted with beets

Chunky Monkey goes vegan. benjerry.com.

Cacao nib crust

VEGGIE BURGERS

ALMOND-MILK YOGURT

Fresh, not frozen. madebylukas.com.

By L.A. chef Tal Ronnen. wholefoodsmarket.com.

Book

Coconut Whipped Cream Total: 10 min plus overnight chilling; Makes 3 cups

Chef Tal Ronnen of L.A.’s buzzy, vegan Crossroads shares two staples from his new cookbook, Crossroads. CASHEW CHEESE

FYSH SAUCE

Chickpea miso adds umami. miyokoskitchen.com.

Briny seaweed mimics ﬁsh. tofunafysh.com.

Refrigerate two 15-oz. cans unsweetened coconut milk overnight. Open the cans and carefully spoon the thick coconut cream into a medium bowl (you should have about 1½ cups total). Reserve the coconut milk for another use. Add ½ cup confectioners’ sugar and the seeds of one split and scraped vanilla bean to the bowl. Whip the coconut cream with a hand mixer at moderately high speed until soft peaks form and the cream has doubled in volume, about 5 minutes.

Cashew Cream Total: 5 min plus overnight soaking; Makes 4½ cups

EGG-FREE COOKIE DOUGH

Bake or eat raw. hamptoncreek .com.

M A R C H 2016

Rinse 2 cups whole raw cashews and cover with 2 cups water. Cover and refrigerate overnight. Drain the cashews and rinse well. In a blender, combine the cashews with 3 cups ﬁltered water and blend until very smooth and creamy, 3 to 5 minutes.

VEGAN EGGS

Sold powdered; high in ﬁber. followyourheart .com.

continued on p. 113

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

groceries, clockwise from top left: daiya foods; ben & jerry’s; courtesy of kite hill; courtesy of tofuna fysh; follow your heart; courtesy of hampton creek; courtesy of miyokos kitchen; cara howe. online bakery: david cicconi. book: lisa romerein, from CROSSROADS by tal ronnen

Online Bakery

TOTAL WELLNESS

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JOIN HEALTH FOR A TRANSFORMATIVE STAY AT BEAUTIFUL CANYON RANCH WELLNESS RESORT IN LENOX, MASS. From exclusive workouts and inspiring speakers to delicious meals and ahh-mazing spa treatments, you’ll discover the healthiest, happiest you. CONNECT ONE-ON-ONE WITH EXPERTS FROM HEALTH AND CANYON RANCH

KRISTIN McGEE

KATELYN DIGIORGIO

CINDY GEYER, MD

TRACY ANDERSON

GAIL SALTZ, MD

CYNTHIA SASS, RD

Leading yoga and Pilates instructor and star of more than 100 DVDs

Pure Barre’s director of training, focusing on innovation and quality of the brand’s technique

Medical director of Canyon Ranch Resort in Lenox, Mass.

Fitness pro, creator of the Tracy Anderson Method and star of more than 160 DVDs

Psychiatrist, author, national TV commentator and consultant to the Clinton Foundation

Nutritionist and best-selling author of Slim Down Now

Programming subject to change

APRI L 22 24, 2016 CANYON RANCH WELLNESS RESORT IN LENOX, MASS. Space is limited. To reserve, call 1-800-742-9000 and mention group code Health Total Wellness. For weekend activity information and updates, please visit Health.com/TotalWellness.

canyonranch.com

Two Black Belts in the Kitchen WHEN THEY AREN’T TRYING TO KICK OTHER PEOPLE IN THE HEAD, F&W TEST KITCHEN PRO KAY CHUN AND STAR CHEF CATHAL ARMSTRONG ARE IN THE KITCHEN CREATING REVITALIZING RECIPES. BY DANIEL GRITZER

As they talk, it becomes clear that despite their common interests, their journeys to this moment have been remarkably diﬀerent. For Armstrong, tae kwon do came as a midlife lifesaver. Entering his 40s and pushing 241 pounds, he found himself struggling with the demands of his growing restaurant empire. The stress and grueling physical nature of the work left him unable to control his temper in the kitchen. “My life felt like a bicycle with a loose wheel,” he says. “I was so out of shape, I’d drop my pen in the kitchen and couldn’t even bend down or crouch to pick it up. It was exhausting, that’d make me cranky and then I was just yelling at everyone all the time.” The turning point came seven years ago, when his dad came to visit from Dublin. “He said, ‘Oh, my God, what happened to you?’” Armstrong recalls as he pulls up a cell phone photo of himself from around that time. It’s almost impossible to reconcile that image with the martial artist standing next to us today, a second-degree black belt who has twice won the national championships and

RACK, CRACK. Cathal Armstrong unleashes a series of roundhouse kicks onto leather paddles held by Master Jason Yoo, his tae kwon do coach. His legs snap in rapid-fire sequence, high and low, striking powerfully where his opponent’s head and torso would be. Pop, crack, crack. He shifts to bouncing lightly on his feet, his fists raised yet relaxed. Behind him comes Kay Chun, driving alternating side kicks into Master Yoo’s paddles. Thump. Step. Thump. Step. Armstrong circles back around. He launches himself into the air in a whirling 360-degree spin, his legs whip, then his instep smacks right through one of the paddles. Pow. Armstrong and Chun have never met before, but F&W has brought them together for a tae kwon do training session followed by a bit of cooking. Armstrong was named an F&W Best New Chef in 2006 for his refined Irish-French cooking at Restaurant Eve in Alexandria, Virginia; Chun is an F&W Test Kitchen senior editor.

M A R C H 2016

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

photographs: john kernick; food stylist: hadas smirnoff; prop stylist: brooke deonarine

MINDFUL COOKING

HOW FAR WILL YOU TAKE IT

With spacious cargo capacity* and standard All-Wheel Drive with intelligence (AWD-i). Prototype shown with options. Production model may vary. *Cargo and load capacity limited by weight and distribution. ÂŠ2015 Toyota Motor Sales, U.S.A., Inc.

Mindful Cooking

Black Belts in the Kitchen

“With tae kwon do training, I learned to relax, to process more information at once,” Armstrong says. “I had a similar awakening in the kitchen.” once the US Open in his middleweight age class. It’s an impressive transformation, the result of a wholesale lifestyle change that includes eating smarter. For Chun, there was no transformative moment. The daughter of the celebrated grand master Richard Chun, she was immersed in rigorous tae kwon do training from the age of five. Her father has taught legends like Muhammad Ali and was tapped to play Mr. Miyagi in The Karate Kid; unwilling to spend months in Hollywood away from his family, he turned the part down and helped train the film’s star, Ralph Macchio, instead. As a child, Chun and her brother would commute with their father on Saturday mornings from New Jersey to his dojo on Manhattan’s Upper East Side. They’d help him prep the academy for the day’s classes, train all day and then wash the gym down at night. “It kind of sucked at the time, but I look back now and see it instilled in me something I wasn’t aware of then,” Chun says. That something is a meticulous, disciplined approach to everything she undertakes. From learning how to do a particular kick to dicing an onion, she’s able to focus her mind on a physical task, repeating it over and over while honing the smallest details, a process that leads—in micro steps and plateaus—to mastery. After taking a few minutes to cool down, Armstrong and Chun exchange their tae kwon do uniforms for aprons and make their way to the kitchen. Each has come with a few favorite pre- and post-workout recipes to share, and the similarity in their approaches is striking. They start by cooking Armstrong’s snapper with dashi broth. They crisp the fish skin side down and simmer kombu and bonito flakes in water to create the savory Japanese stock.

Chun, daughter of a grand master, is an expert in martial and kitchen arts.

“I’m cooking with a lot more Asian ingredients than I used to,” Armstrong muses. “The Asian lifestyle in general just seems to be healthier.” Chun agrees, thinking back to the Korean food she grew up eating and the way it still influences her cooking: “At home we ate just a little meat and then all these vegetables.” Armstrong drizzles a creamy lime-spiked doenjang dressing around his snapper, adding funky depth and a pop of acidity, while Chun spoons a gingery vinaigrette onto poached chicken that’s so dense with herbs it’s practically a salad. It’s no accident both have chosen zingy vinaigrettes as their sauces. This is wholesome, clean, delicious cooking, the kind that leaves you sated yet energized. There’s an easy calm as they work, which Armstrong says is now the norm in his restaurant kitchens. “When I started competing, I’d step into the ring and only see the fighter right in front of my eyes. With training, I learned to relax a little bit, see what’s happening around me and process more information at once. It makes everything clearer; I can think better,” he says. “I had a similar awakening in the kitchen. A cook can hunch over and not worry about the rest of the world, but a chef needs to be able to look up and see everything.” Cultivating that mental clarity is what allows martial artists and chefs to perform at their best. Getting bogged down in distracting minutiae—whether about the scary number of dinner orders flying in at once or the flurry of punches hurtling toward your face—is the surest way to lose control. “The minute a thought comes into your mind, the rhythm and focus are gone, and then it’s all over,” Chun says. “The only thing you should be thinking about is letting your body go through its motions.” That concept is called mindfulness or flow or even being in the zone. No matter the terminology, what’s important is the effect it describes. Before, when Armstrong’s pen would roll off the kitchen counter, he’d have to ask one of his cooks to pick it up for him. These days he’s more likely to snatch it in midair before he has even realized it’s falling, and it never hits the floor.

penang-style pork with soft tofu, p. 44

Daniel Gritzer is culinary director at Serious Eats, a former F&W editor and an instructor of the Afro-Brazilian martial art capoeira.

M A R C H 2016

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Mindful Cooking

Black Belts in the Kitchen

over moderately high heat, turning once, until cooked through and the skin is crisp, about 3 minutes per side. 5. Ladle the dashi and vegetables into shallow bowls and top with the fish, skin side up. Spoon the vinaigrette over, garnish with sesame seeds, radishes and cilantro and serve. —Cathal Armstrong NOTE Doenjang is available at Korean markets. MAKE AHEAD The dashi and miso vinaigrette can be refrigerated separately for 2 days. WINE Zesty, mineral-driven

Grüner Veltliner: 2014 Birgit Eichinger Wechselberg.

Poached Chicken with Fragrant Herb Vinaigrette page 44 Active 45 min; Total 1 hr 45 min Serves 4 CHICKEN

One 3½- to 4-lb. whole chicken, backbone removed and reserved One 5-inch piece of ginger, thinly sliced 2 heads of garlic, halved crosswise

red snapper with korean miso vinaigrette

1 whole star anise One 3-inch cinnamon stick 2 Tbsp. dry green peppercorns

Red Snapper with Korean Miso Vinaigrette Total 1 hr 30 min; Serves 4 2 Tbsp. doenjang (Korean fermented soybean paste, see Note) 2 Tbsp. mayonnaise 1½ Tbsp. ﬁnely chopped peeled fresh ginger 1 Tbsp. fresh lime juice 1/2

cup canola oil Kosher salt and pepper One 8-inch piece of kombu

1 cup loosely packed bonito ﬂakes ½ lb. parsnips, peeled and cut into 2-by- 1/4 -inch matchsticks

M A R C H 2016

1 medium onion, cut through the core into ¼-inch-thick wedges

simmer gently for 5 minutes longer. Strain the dashi (broth) through a cheesecloth-lined sieve into a saucepan; discard the solids. Add the parsnips to the dashi and bring to a simmer. Cook over moderately low heat until the parsnips are almost tender, 10 minutes.

Four 6-oz. skin-on red snapper ﬁllets Toasted white sesame seeds, shaved radishes and cilantro leaves, for garnish

3. Heat a large cast-iron skillet. Add the onion wedges and cook over moderate heat, turning, until lightly charred all over, about 5 minutes. Add the onion to the dashi and simmer until tender, about 5 minutes; keep warm. Wipe out the skillet.

1. In a food processor, pulse the doenjang with the mayonnaise, ginger and lime juice. With the machine on, slowly drizzle in 6 tablespoons of the oil until well blended. Season with salt. 2. In a saucepan, cover the kombu with 4 cups of water and bring to a simmer; discard the kombu. Simmer gently for 5 minutes. Add the bonito and

4. Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil in the skillet. Season the fish with salt and pepper. Cook skin side down

1 Tbsp. kosher salt HERB VINAIGRETTE

½ cup chopped cilantro, plus sprigs for garnish ½ cup chopped scallions, plus more for garnish ½ cup coarsely chopped parsley 1/3

cup chopped basil, plus small leaves for garnish

1 serrano chile, minced with seeds 2 Tbsp. ﬁnely grated peeled fresh ginger ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil 2 Tbsp. fresh lime juice Kosher salt and pepper Steamed brown rice and lime wedges, for serving »

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ÂŠ2016 Pepperidge Farm, Incorporated.

Follow the crumbs. They will take you home.

Mindful Cooking

1. Cook the chicken In a large pot, combine the chicken and the backbone with enough water to cover by 1 inch. Add the ginger, garlic, star anise, cinnamon stick, peppercorns and salt and bring to a rolling boil. Place a heatproof plate on top of the chicken to completely submerge it. Cover the pot and remove from the heat. Let stand for 1 hour. 2. Transfer the chicken to a cutting board and let stand for 10 minutes. Carve the chicken and arrange on a platter; discard the skin if desired. Strain the poaching liquid through a sieve and keep warm. 3. Make the vinaigrette In a bowl, combine the chopped cilantro, scallions, parsley, basil and serrano with the ginger, olive oil and lime juice; mix well. Season with salt and pepper. 4. Spoon the vinaigrette over the chicken and garnish with cilantro sprigs, scallions and basil leaves. Serve with rice and lime wedges, passing the hot broth for sipping. —Kay Chun WINE Fresh, stony Chablis:

2013 Domaine Servin Premier Cru Vaucoupin.

Black Belts in the Kitchen

CRISPY GARLIC

Penang-Style Pork with Soft Tofu

Canola oil, for frying

page 40

3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

Total 1 hr; Serves 4

PORK CURRY

“When I’m working out hard,” says Armstrong, “I like really spicy food.” On his menu at Restaurant Eve, he calls this “Warning: You Must be Brave to Order This Dish.” To keep the heat level in check, reduce the amount of chile flakes.

12 oz. pork tenderloin, sliced crosswise ¾ inch thick Kosher salt and pepper

Warm Escarole-andShiitake Salad with Crispy Beans

6 Tbsp. prepared Penang curry sauce

¼ tsp. ground mace 1/8

1 Tbsp. minced garlic

1½ cups low-sodium chicken broth

1 tsp. cumin seeds

tsp. ground cardamom

3 Tbsp. soy sauce

½ tsp. kosher salt ½ tsp. black pepper

2 Tbsp. cornstarch mixed with 2 Tbsp. water

1½ Tbsp. Korean chile ﬂakes (gochugaru)

8 oz. soft tofu, cut into ½-inch dice

1 Tbsp. minced peeled fresh ginger

Steamed jasmine rice, for serving

1 Tbsp. minced shallot

Cilantro, for garnish

1 Tbsp. ﬁnely chopped lemongrass, tender inner bulb only

1. Make the spice paste In a spice grinder, pulse the coriander and cumin until coarsely ground; transfer to a food processor. Add the remaining ingredients and puree until a smooth paste forms.

2 tsp. ﬁnely grated lime zest 2 garlic cloves, chopped ½ tsp. Asian shrimp paste (see Note)

2. Make the crispy garlic In a nonstick skillet, heat ¼ inch of canola oil. Add the garlic and fry, stirring, until golden and crisp, about 1 minute. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the garlic to a paper towel–lined plate to drain. Pour off all but 2 tablespoons of the oil in the skillet.

poached chicken with fragrant herb vinaigrette, p. 42

WINE Cru Beaujolais: 2014

Julien Sunier Fleurie.

1 tsp. minced Thai chile

1 tsp. coriander seeds

NOTE Southeast Asian shrimp paste is made with fermented ground shrimp. Look for it at Asian markets.

1 Tbsp. minced peeled fresh ginger

2 Tbsp. minced shallot

SPICE PASTE

4. Spoon rice into bowls and top with the curry. Garnish with the crispy garlic and cilantro.

3. Make the pork curry Season the pork with salt and pepper. Cook in the skillet over moderately high heat, turning once, until browned, 2 minutes per side. Transfer the pork to a cutting board and quarter each slice. Add the ginger, garlic, shallot, chile and spice paste to the pan and cook over low heat, stirring, until very fragrant, about 5 minutes. Add the broth, curry sauce and soy sauce and bring to a simmer. Whisk in the cornstarch slurry and bring to a simmer, then add the pork and tofu and cook just until the sauce thickens, 2 minutes.

Total 1 hr; Serves 4 One 15-oz. can kidney beans ½ cup plus 1 Tbsp. extravirgin olive oil Kosher salt and pepper 2 Tbsp. Dijon mustard 2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice 2 Tbsp. minced shallot 1 head of escarole (12 oz.), leaves coarsely chopped 1 lb. shiitake mushrooms, stemmed, caps halved 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 2 celery ribs, thinly sliced 1 cup cooked black or green lentils 2 Tbsp. chopped chives

1. Preheat the oven to 375°. On a baking sheet, toss the beans with 1 tablespoon of the oil and season with salt and pepper. Roast for about 30 minutes, stirring, until dry and crispy. Transfer the sheet to a rack and let the beans cool completely. 2. In a bowl, whisk the mustard, lemon juice and shallot. Whisking constantly, slowly drizzle in 6 tablespoons of the oil; season with salt and pepper. Set the escarole on top; don’t mix. 3. In a nonstick skillet, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil. Add the shiitakes and cook over moderately high heat, stirring, until golden and charred in spots, 3 to 4 minutes. Stir in the garlic for 1 minute. Add the hot mushrooms, celery, lentils and the chopped chives to the escarole and toss. Mound the salad on plates, top with the crispy beans and serve. —KC continued on p. 112

M A R C H 2016

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DESIGN & STYLE

The Eﬃcient Kitchen INSPIRED BY RESTAURANTS, A CHICAGO DESIGNER COMBINES BEAUTY AND PRODUCTIVITY IN A COMPACT SPACE. BY CHRISTINE QUINLAN

CUSTOM HOOD

The stainless steel exterior was installed in three pieces. avenuemetal.com.

FAUCET

The Kohler Karbon pull-down folds out of the way. $1,332; kohler.com.

STONE WALLS

The 3-by-6-inch Carrara marble tiles are from Waterworks. From $27 per sq. ft.; waterworks.com.

MARBLE COUNTER

company called Avenue Metal make an oversize restaurant-style hood, built in three parts so it would be easy to install. Zaveloff prevents her kitchens from feeling commercial with an eclectic use of materials, a reflection of her years at art school, where she focused on collage, and her work in film set design. In addition to the marble tiles on the walls, this kitchen has both limestone and marble countertops and a mix of metals like antique brass on the Morela lighting fixtures from Crate & Barrel, polished steel drawer pulls by Sugatsune and a stainless steel Wolf range. She explains, “I try to create an environment that unfolds slowly so as you take it in you think, Oh, look at this—oh, look at that.” kitchenlabdesign.com.

EOPLE THINK HOME kitchens have to be huge, but that’s inefficient—you walk around in circles,” says Rebekah Zaveloff, owner of KitchenLab Design in Chicago. Instead, she creates space-efficient kitchens for clients, including star chef Michael Symon, that look to restaurants for inspiration. Consider her generous use of Carrara marble tile in the space above. “When you walk into a restaurant there’s a reason for a lot of tile—it’s easy to clean,” Zaveloff says. “Plus, having it go all the way up the walls calls attention to high ceilings.” In this project, she also mimics restaurant kitchens by placing all the cabinets beneath the countertops to create a feeling of openness. And she had a local

M A R C H 2016

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photographs: mike kaskel

A raised border keeps liquid from dripping off.

THE BEST-DRESSED HOMES WEAR AZEK®

Where high performance meets high style, you’ll find AZEK® exterior products. AZEK.com/bestdressed DECK

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Design & Style

“I try to create an environment that unfolds slowly so as you take it in you think, Oh, look at this–oh, look at that.” — REBEKAH ZAVELOFF, KITCHENLAB DESIGN

The Efficient Kitchen

PREP SINK

Zaveloff came up with a clever use for what might otherwise have been dead space: She mounted a Kohler Karbon pull-down faucet on the small wall next to a prep sink. The sink is to the left of the stove so the faucet can double as a pot filler. $1,707; kohler.com.

RETRO HARDWARE

Closets in the dining room have steel hinges and pulls that resemble those on turnof-the-century iceboxes. The cabinets above hold platters and baking sheets. From $23; autohardwareonline.com. SIDEBOARD SPACE

The sideboard and cabinets are painted Midsummer Night by Benjamin Moore, one of Zaveloff’s signature colors. The custom glass and stainless steel cabinet doors nod to the streamlined, industrial look of restaurant kitchens.

M A R C H 2016

QUIRKY ACCESSORIES

Mounted on the marble-lined walls are a 1930s rotary phone, which still works, and, above it, a 1950s light fixture. Both add an element of whimsy and surprise to the sleek, modern design. 48

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

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All trademarks are owned by Frito-Lay North America, Inc. ÂŠ2016

WHAT TO COOK NOW

mastering my mistakes photographs: john kernick; food stylist: barrett washburne; prop stylist: brooke denoaire; groomer: jessie riley

HANDBOOK “Mastering My Mistakes” menu:

Coriander-and-AlmondCrusted Chicken Legs (p. 52) Chinese-Style Braised Mushrooms and Mustard Greens (p. 54) Brussels Sprout Salad with Toasted Sesame Vinaigrette (p. 54)

Chef Seamus Mullen teaches F&W’s Dana Cowin how to grind spices for coating chicken legs.

DO!

1 Grinding spices takes a little bit longer than I want to wait. One way to speed things up is to shake the grinder as it whirs, like a mixologist.

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

M A R C H 2016

Handbook

What to Cook Now

Mastering My Mistakes Inspired by her book, Mastering My Mistakes in the Kitchen, F&W editor in chief Dana Cowin takes a cooking lesson from a chef. Her teacher this month: Seamus Mullen of Tertulia and El Colmado in New York City.

DON’T!

DO!

If you grind spices too ﬁnely, they’ll burn in the pan. Keep them chunky!

Using the back of a Microplane when zesting lemon means less pith.

DON’T! DO! 4 3 Seamus rubs the meat with oil to make the coating stick.

Coriander-and-AlmondCrusted Chicken Legs Active 25 min; Total 1 hr Serves 4 ½ cup whole blanched almonds 2½ Tbsp. coriander seeds 2 tsp. white peppercorns 2 tsp. yellow mustard seeds 2¼ tsp. sea salt 1¼ tsp. ﬁnely grated lemon zest M A R C H 2016

Add to the large bowl along with the salt and lemon zest and mix well. Brush the chicken with olive oil, then dredge in the almond mixture, pressing to help it adhere.

4 whole chicken legs (2½ lbs.) ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for brushing Lemon wedges, for serving

2. In a large cast-iron skillet, heat the 1/4 cup of olive oil over moderate heat. When the oil is hot, add the chicken, skin side down, and cook until lightly browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Flip and cook until very lightly browned on the bottom, about

1. Preheat the oven to 400°. In a spice grinder, pulse the almonds until finely ground. Transfer to a large bowl. In the spice grinder, grind the coriander, peppercorns and mustard seeds until coarsely ground.

Don’t get the skillet hot, hot, hot before searing the chicken. The spices will burn.

5 minutes. Transfer the skillet to the oven and roast the chicken until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the thickest part of each thigh registers 165°, 15 to 20 minutes. Serve with lemon wedges. MAKE AHEAD The spiced almond coating can be stored in an airtight container for up to 1 week. WINE Vibrant Côtes du Rhône

red: 2013 Éric Texier Chat Fou.

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

GET EASY TIPS AND PAIRINGS AT CHOLULA.COM The trademarks Cholula, the Cholula bottle design and the Cholula label design are owned by and used under license from the trademark owner, Salsas de Jalisco Cacu, S.A. de C.V.

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What to Cook Now

DO!

1 When toasting sesame seeds, stop when they become fragrant; don’t worry about the color.

Chinese-Style Braised Mushrooms and Mustard Greens Active 30 min; Total 1 hr 15 min Serves 4 ½ oz. small dried shiitake mushrooms 2 cups boiling water ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil 2 king oyster mushrooms or white button mushrooms (6 oz.), cut into 1-inch pieces 4 medium shallots, quartered lengthwise Fine sea salt and pepper 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 1 whole star anise 1 tsp. Chinese ﬁve-spice powder ½ cup dry rice wine or dry white wine One 10-oz. bunch of mustard greens, stems discarded and leaves torn (4 cups)

M A R C H 2016

brussels sprout salad with toasted sesame vinaigrette

1. In a medium bowl, cover the shiitakes with the boiling water and top with a heatproof plate to keep them submerged. Let stand until they are softened, about 25 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the shiitakes to a work surface and cut in half. Reserve the soaking liquid.

Brussels Sprout Salad with Toasted Sesame Vinaigrette Total 45 min; Serves 4 ¼ cup white sesame seeds 1 tsp. ﬁnely grated lemon zest plus 1/4 cup fresh lemon juice

2. In a large saucepan, heat the oil. Add the king oyster mushrooms, shallots and a generous pinch of salt and cook over moderately high heat until just starting to soften, about 3 minutes. Stir in the shiitakes, garlic, star anise and five-spice. Add the wine and simmer until evaporated, about 2 minutes.

1 Tbsp. white wine vinegar 1 garlic clove 1 tsp. honey ¼ cup plus 2 Tbsp. extravirgin olive oil Kosher salt and pepper 1 lb. brussels sprouts, very thinly sliced 1 Pink Lady apple—halved, cored and thinly sliced

3. Add the shiitake soaking liquid to the saucepan and bring to a boil. Simmer over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until the soaking liquid is slightly reduced, about 10 minutes. Add the mustard greens and cook, stirring occasionally, until just tender, about 5 minutes. Discard the star anise. Season with salt and pepper. Serve.

1 medium shallot, halved lengthwise and very thinly sliced 1 serrano chile—stemmed, seeded and very thinly sliced

1. In a small skillet, toast the white sesame seeds over moderately low heat, stirring, until fragrant but not browned, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a blender and let cool. Add the lemon zest and juice, then add the vinegar, garlic and honey and puree until a chunky paste forms, about 1 minute. With the machine on, gradually add the olive oil and puree until nearly smooth, 1 to 2 minutes. Scrape the vinaigrette into a large bowl and season with salt and pepper. 2. Add the brussels sprouts, apple, shallot, chile and mint to the dressing and toss well. Season with salt and pepper and toss again. Garnish with black sesame seeds, if using, and serve right away. MAKE AHEAD The sesame vinaigrette can be refrigerated overnight. Bring to room temperature before using.

½ cup chopped mint Black sesame seeds, for garnish (optional)

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MAYBE WE SHOULD TALK ABOUT THE 4000-POUND VOLCANIC ROCK IN THE ROOM.

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What to Cook Now

RAISIN TRICK Use rehydrated raisins pureed with lemon juice to add the right amount of sweetness to this curriedvegetable pasta.

PERFECTION PERFECTED! SETTING THE STANDARD, YET AGAIN.

Healthy Cooking: Pasta Gluten-Free Penne with CurryRoasted Cauliflower and Raisins

salt and toss again. Roast the cauliflower for about 12 minutes, until tender.

Active 40 min; Total 1 hr Serves 4 to 6

2. Meanwhile, spread the almonds in a pie plate and toast for about 5 minutes, until they are golden. In a mini food processor, puree the soaked raisins with the lemon juice, 1 tablespoon of the olive oil and a pinch of salt until smooth.

One 2½-lb. head of cauliﬂower, cored and cut into 1-inch ﬂorets 2 Tbsp. Madras curry powder 2 Tbsp. garam masala ¼ cup plus 3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil Kosher salt 1/3

CABERNET/MERLOT OLD WORLD SYRAH

NEW WORLD PINOT NOIR ROSÉ CHAMPAGNE NEBBIOLO

cup sliced almonds

1 cup golden raisins, ½ cup soaked in hot water for 15 minutes and drained 3 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice ½ lb. gluten-free penne 1 leek, halved lengthwise and thinly sliced crosswise 1 large garlic clove, thinly sliced ½ cup chopped parsley leaves, plus more for garnish Yogurt, for topping

EXPLORE THE WORLD OF RIEDEL AT RIEDELUSA.NET

1. Preheat the oven to 450°. On a large rimmed baking sheet, toss the cauliflower with the curry powder, garam masala and ¼ cup of the olive oil. Season with

3. In a large saucepan of salted boiling water, cook the pasta until al dente. Drain well, reserving 3/4 cup of the cooking water. 4. Wipe out the saucepan and heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil in it. Add the leek and garlic and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until softened and lightly browned, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in the raisin puree, then add the cauliflower, pasta and the reserved cooking water and cook over moderate heat, tossing, until the pasta is coated in the sauce. Remove from the heat and stir in the ½ cup of parsley and the remaining ½ cup of golden raisins. Transfer to shallow bowls. Garnish with the almonds and chopped parsley and top with yogurt. Serve right away. WINE Dry, fruit-forward German Riesling:

2014 Leitz Eins Zwei Dry 3.

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

photograph: john kernick; food stylist: barrett washburne; prop stylist: brooke denoaire

This gluten-free pasta dish is from Franklin Becker, chef-partner at The Little Beet and Little Beet Table in New York City. Look for it at Chefs Club by Food & Wine, our Manhattan restaurant (chefsclub.com).

p r o m ot i o n

FOR A GOOD TIME FWx.COM

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Tofu Masala In a large nonstick skillet, heat 3 Tbsp. canola oil. Add 1 chopped serrano chile, 1 chopped small onion, 1⁄4 cup each ﬁnely chopped garlic and ginger, 4 tsp. each ground coriander and garam masala and 2 chopped tomatoes. Cook over moderate heat, stirring, until saucy, 8 minutes. Stir in one 14-oz. package ﬁrm tofu (cubed) and 1 cup water; bring to a simmer and serve.

Crispy Tofu Steaks

Creamy Tofu Dressing In a blender, puree 8 oz. silken tofu with 1⁄4 cup each toasted sesame seeds and canola oil, 1 Tbsp. lemon juice, 3 garlic cloves and 1⁄2 tsp. toasted sesame oil. Season with salt. Serve with roasted vegetables.

Market Math: Tofu F&W ’s Kay Chun

M A R C H 2016

Seared Tofu Tabbouleh In a large cast-iron skillet, heat 2 Tbsp. olive oil. Add one 14-oz. package ﬁrm tofu (cubed) and 5 chopped scallions; cook over high heat until crisp in spots, 5 minutes. Transfer to a bowl. Add 4 cups cooled cooked bulgur, 1 small chopped tomato, 1 chopped Kirby cucumber, 1 Tbsp. lemon juice and 3 Tbsp. olive oil. Season with salt and serve. F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

photographs: eva kolenko; food stylist: lillian kang; prop stylist: natasha kolenko

In a small bowl, mix 3 Tbsp. each minced ginger and scallions with 1 Tbsp. white vinegar and 1⁄3 cup canola oil; season with salt. In a bowl, beat 1 large egg. Spread 1 cup panko on a plate. Cut one 14-oz. package ﬁrm tofu into 1-inchthick slices and dip in the egg, then the panko. Heat 1⁄3 cup oil in a large nonstick skillet and fry the tofu over moderate heat, turning once, until crisp, 8 minutes. Season with salt and serve with the vinaigrette.

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What to Cook Now

Mad Genius Tips: Scoring Fish Cutting slits in ﬁsh allows seasonings to penetrate. Justin Chapple, the star of F&W’s Mad Genius Tips videos, shares his scoring secret.

Total 45 min; Serves 4 3 fennel bulbs, cut into ¾-inch wedges ¼ cup plus 1½ Tbsp. extravirgin olive oil 1½ tsp. chopped thyme ¼ tsp. crushed red pepper Kosher salt and black pepper Two 12-oz. red snapper ﬁllets 2 tsp. crushed fennel seeds ½ tsp. ﬁnely grated grapefruit zest 1 pink grapefruit, peeled and supremed

1. Preheat the oven to 400°. On a rimmed baking sheet, toss the fennel, ¼ cup of oil, the thyme and crushed red pepper. Season with salt and black pepper. Roast for about 20 minutes, until just tender.

SLICING TRICK Draping thick ﬁsh ﬁllets over the side of a baking dish pulls the skin taut so it’s easier to cut through.

2. Gently curl 1 snapper fillet over the edge of a ceramic baking dish, skin side up. Make 5 or 6 slashes in the fillet. Repeat with the remaining fillet. 3. In a bowl, whisk the remaining 1½ tablespoons of oil, the fennel seeds and zest and rub all over the fillets and in the slashes; season with salt and pepper. Arrange the snapper skin side up on the fennel. Roast for about 8 minutes, until the fish is just cooked through. Serve the fish and fennel with the grapefruit sections. WINE Citrusy, medium-bodied

fennel-and-grapefruitrubbed snapper

M A R C H 2016

white Bordeaux: 2013 Clos Floridène.

Harissa-Spiced Salmon with Israeli Couscous Total 50 min; Serves 4 1 cup Israeli couscous Kosher salt and pepper ½ cup plus 1 Tbsp. chopped chives ½ cup each chopped mint and parsley 2½ Tbsp. fresh lemon juice 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil 1½ lb. salmon ﬁllet in 1 piece, cut from the tail end 2 Tbsp. harissa 1 Tbsp. agave

1. Preheat the oven to 400°. Bring a medium saucepan of water to a boil. Add the couscous and a pinch of salt and cook, stirring, until al dente, 10 minutes. Drain well; let cool. 2. In a bowl, toss the couscous with 1/2 cup of the chives, the mint, parsley, lemon juice and oil. Season with salt and pepper. 3. Gently curl the salmon over the edge of a ceramic baking dish, skin side up. Make 5 or 6 slashes in the fillet about ½ inch deep. In a bowl, whisk the harissa, agave and the remaining chives. Rub all over the salmon and in the slashes; season with salt and pepper. 4. Transfer the fish, skin side up, to a foil-lined baking sheet. Roast for 8 minutes, until barely cooked. Turn on the broiler and broil for 3 to 5 minutes, until nearly cooked through and the skin is crisp. Cut the salmon into 4 pieces and serve with the couscous.

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photographs: john kernick; food stylist: barrett washburne; prop stylist: brooke denoaire; groomer: jessie riley

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What to Cook Now

photograph: john kernick; food stylist: barrett washburne; prop stylist: brooke denoaire

Handbook

Cravings These crisp and chewy meringues are from Abigail Quinn of Atlanta’s Proof Bakeshop and Cakes & Ale. Look for them at Chefs Club by Food & Wine, our Manhattan restaurant (chefsclub.com).

Chocolate Chip Espresso Meringues Active 20 min; Total 1 hr 20 min Makes 8 3 large egg whites, at room temperature ½ tsp. cream of tartar 1 cup superﬁne sugar 2 oz. bittersweet chocolate, ﬁnely chopped (scant ½ cup) Kosher salt 1 Tbsp. unsweetened cocoa powder

1. Preheat the oven to 225°. Line a large rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. In a medium bowl, using a hand mixer, beat the egg whites with the cream of tartar at low speed until foamy, about 30 seconds. Increase the speed to medium and beat in the sugar, 1 tablespoon at a time; beat until the whites are stiff and glossy, about 1 minute. Fold in the chopped chocolate and a pinch of salt. Sift the cocoa powder and espresso

powder over the meringue and fold 2 or 3 times to incorporate; the meringue should look marbled. 2. Spoon eight ½-cup mounds of meringue onto the prepared baking sheet. Using the back of a spoon, gently spread the meringues into 3-inch rounds. Bake for 1 hour, or until the meringues are firm on the outside but still chewy in the center. Let cool completely. MAKE AHEAD The meringues can be stored in an airtight container for 1 week.

2 tsp. espresso powder M A R C H 2016

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photographs: david malosh; food stylist: barrett washburne

FOOD INTELLIGENCE

THE GASTRONAUT FILES

DIY Pho A tiny Vietnamese restaurant in an industrial stretch of Queens, New York, has become a cult favorite for its chickenand-noodle soup. Here’s how to make it.

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WHEN A VIETNAMESE RESTAURANT CALLED BUNKER opened across from a scrapmetal yard in Ridgewood, Queens, its beef-and-noodle pho became a hit. But chef Jimmy Tu quickly realized he had neither the time nor the space to make enough beef broth to meet demand. So he switched to a quicker but just as rich-tasting chicken pho. He builds ﬂavor in stages, adding panroasted shallots and onion and then toasted spices and goji berries to the broth as it simmers. The result shows just how much he learned from his mother and aunt, and from the chefs he trained with at Manhattan’s Montrachet and Eleven Madison Park. 46-63 Metropolitan Ave.; bunkervietnamese.com. TINA UJLAKI

M A R C H 2016

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COVER RECIPE

Chicken Pho Active: 1 hr; Total: 4 hr; Serves 4 Because pho is largely about the flavor of the broth, using a high-quality bird here is key. Bunker chef Jimmy Tu gently poaches the chicken until it’s cooked just enough so he can remove the meat from the bones and shred it. Then he returns the skin and bones to the pot to simmer for a few more hours. PHO

Kosher salt One 3½-lb. chicken 2 whole star anise 2 cardamom pods 1 tsp. coriander seeds One 2 1/2 -inch cinnamon stick 1 tsp. black peppercorns ½ tsp. white peppercorns 1 tsp. goji berries 2 shallots, halved 1 small onion, quartered

1 leek, halved lengthwise and cut into 2-inch pieces 1 Tbsp. crushed rock sugar or dark brown sugar 1 Tbsp. Asian ﬁsh sauce GARNISHES

¼ cup canola oil 3 medium shallots, thinly sliced (1 cup) 6 oz. dried rice noodles ¼ cup sliced scallions ¼ cup chopped cilantro

RICE NOODLE BASICS

Bean sprouts, basil sprigs, mint sprigs, thinly sliced jalapeños and lime wedges, for serving

Start the Pho 1. In a large stockpot, bring 5 quarts of water to a boil. Add 1 tablespoon of salt and the chicken, breast side down. Place a heatproof plate over the chicken to keep it submerged and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer the chicken for 30 minutes; it will not be cooked through. Transfer the chicken to a bowl of ice water and let cool completely. Drain well and pat dry. 2. Meanwhile, in a large cast-iron skillet, combine the star anise, cardamom, coriander, cinnamon stick, black and white peppercorns and goji berries. Cook over moderately low heat, stirring, until very fragrant, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a small bowl.

Linguine-width rice noodles are sometimes sold as rice sticks. The dried kind need to be handled carefully but are otherwise easy to use: Just soak until pliable, then add to the broth. Tu prefers dried to fresh because fresh noodles can be made with preservatives.

Simmer the Broth 5. Return all of the chicken skin and bones to the broth in the stockpot. Add the panroasted shallot, onion and leek mixture and bring to a boil. Cover and simmer over moderately low heat for 1 hour. 6. Stir the toasted spices and goji berries into the broth. Cover and simmer for 1 hour longer. Add the rock sugar and simmer for another 30 minutes. 7. Strain the broth into a large bowl, pressing on the solids; discard the solids. Pour the broth into a clean saucepan.

Make the Garnishes 8. Fry the shallots: In a large skillet, heat the oil. Add the shallots and cook over moderate heat, stirring, until golden brown, 5 to 7 minutes. Using a mesh skimmer, transfer the shallots to a paper towel–lined plate to drain. Let cool. 9. Soak the noodles in a large bowl of boiling water until pliable, 8 to 10 minutes. 10. Bring the broth to a simmer. Stir in the shredded chicken and cook until just white throughout, 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in the fish sauce and season the broth with salt. 11. Drain the rice noodles and transfer to large bowls. Ladle the broth and chicken over the noodles. Top with the scallions and cilantro. Garnish with the crispy shallots, bean sprouts, basil, mint and jalapeños and serve with lime wedges.

3. In the same skillet, combine the shallots, onion and leek. Cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until deep golden, about 10 minutes.

MAKE AHEAD The poached chicken and finished broth can be refrigerated separately overnight.

4. Remove all of the meat from the chicken and coarsely shred it.

WINE Fragrant northern Italian white:

2013 J. Hofstätter Alto Adige Pinot Bianco.

M A R C H 2016

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The Gastronaut Files

Pho Tutorial Chef Jimmy Tu’s method of lightly poaching the chicken in the stockpot before simmering the broth ensures that the shredded meat is tasty and tender in the ﬁnished pho.

SUBMERGE THE CHICKEN

BOIL THE WATER In a large

stockpot, bring 5 quarts of water to a boil. Add the chicken to the pot, breast side down.

Cover the chicken with a heatproof plate to keep it submerged and bring the water to a boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer and poach the chicken for 30 minutes.

CHILL THE CHICKEN Prepare a large ice water bath. Transfer the chicken to the ice water to stop the cooking. The meat will be barely cooked through at this point; it will continue to cook in the ﬁnished soup.

skillet, toast the spices with goji berries over moderately low heat, stirring, until very fragrant. Transfer to a bowl.

In the same dry skillet, cook the onion, leek and shallots over moderate heat, stirring, until deep golden brown in spots, about 10 minutes.

SIMMER THE BROTH Remove and shred all of the meat. Return the skin and bones to the pot and simmer, adding the panroasted alliums, spices and rock sugar in stages to develop ﬂavor.

TOAST THE SPICES In a heavy

PAN-ROAST THE ALLIUMS

STRAIN THE BROTH Strain the

pho broth through a ﬁne sieve into a large heatproof bowl.

M A R C H 2016

FRY THE SHALLOT GARNISH

Heat canola oil in a large skillet. Add thinly sliced shallots and fry, stirring frequently with a slotted spoon, until browned. Drain and let cool until crispy.

FINISH THE PHO Add the chicken to the broth and simmer just until cooked through. Season the broth with ﬁsh sauce and salt. Ladle into bowls and add the noodles and garnishes.

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Healthy Gadgets: Goofy or Great? WRITER DANIEL DUANE DEHYDRATES KALE, SPIRALIZES A PURPLE YAM, “AIR-FRIES” PANKO-CRUSTED COD AND LEARNS THAT A WILLINGNESS TO EXPERIMENT CAN LEAD TO A SURPRISINGLY SATISFYING MEAL. ILLUSTRATION BY BEN WISEMAN

T’S AMAZING what a kitchen gadget can tell you if you know how to listen—who you are as a cook, for example, hidden prejudices you never knew you had, even the fundamental nature of cooking. I learned this by accident, courtesy of three gadgets that were new to me: a food dehydrator, which is exactly what it sounds like; a Philips Airfryer, which cannot be what it sounds like for the simple reason that the verb “to fry” means both “to cook with hot oil” and, more colloquially, “to destroy,” neither of which can be accomplished with air alone; and a plastic contraption called a spiralizer, with blades optimized for turning vegetables into long, curly strands. Dehydrators, needless to say, have been around for a while. Food-processing companies use them to make snacks like dried mango, and hard-core backpacking enthusiasts have been dehydrating their vegetarian chili since at least the 1970s.

M A R C H 2016

Dehydrators also ﬁgure prominently in three contemporary food trends: modernist ﬁne dining, in which chefs employ them to create edible soils and so-called “fruit veils,” like thin sheets of raspberry that can be used to gift wrap other foods; the rage for old-fashioned food-preservation techniques like pickling, which has even city dwellers like me yearning to harvest heaps of latesummer tomatoes and dry them for use in the dark days of winter; and the Paleolithic diet, in which dried fruits and vegetables and beef jerky qualify as approved snacks. Still, I never would have considered myself modernist enough, pioneer housewife enough or Paleo enough to enjoy dehydrating if not for a chance conversation over cocktails with two acquaintances: Tim Sinclair, a tall and handsome city-employed doctor who roams the San Francisco streets helping people in desperate straits, and his husband, David Funk, an exhibitions coordinator for the

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The ideal environment for the Airfryer would seem to be a college dorm room outfitted with a little fridge-freezer unit, such that a hardworking student might toss in a bag of frozen chicken wings whenever focus flagged. But the Airfryer also taught me that my loathing for phony marketing is so intense, it can blind me to what’s right in front of me: namely, that an air fryer and a dehydrator are both just boxes with heating elements and fans. One is optimized for hitting large amounts of food with low heat and slow air circulation for long stretches of time; the other is optimized to hit small amounts of food with high heat and fast air circulation for a short period of time. Both create environments well outside my oven’s capacity—gentle, for the dehydrator; intense, for the air fryer—and both, therefore, offer interesting variations on the basic project of transforming the raw into the cooked.

“My breakthrough came when I dehydrated some kale, then tossed it with oil, salt, chili powder and my new dehydrated-lime powder.” San Francisco Museum of Modern Art. I asked what was new in their lives, and Tim said, with a laugh, “Our food dehydrator!” David, who is rumored to be a sensational cook, told me that most available recipes for dehydrators seem aimed at people “either going hiking or predicting the end of the world. I really just wanted to get more flavor into our dinners.” So David was finding ways to dry lemons and grind them into powder for sprinkling onto salads; he had even dried his homemade kimchi to create an intensely flavored sort of magic dust to sprinkle on anything at all. I liked the sound of this so much that I ordered a Waring dehydrator that turned out to be, in essence, a big metal box with a heating element, a fan and six removable plastic trays designed to maximize air circulation around their contents. Over the next few weeks, I made flavored powders of my own—lemon, navel orange, even black olive. My big dehydrating breakthrough came when I stripped the stems out of some kale, dehydrated the leaves until crispy, tossed them with oil, salt, chili powder and my new dehydrated-lime powder, and then heard my 13-year-old daughter, Hannah, say, “Dad, I would eat kale all the time if it always tasted like this.” I found this so motivating that I ran out and bought a couple of pounds of top-round beef, froze it for an hour to harden, sliced it thin, soaked it for a few hours in a soy sauce–based marinade that I made up on the spot, set it in the dehydrator for 12 hours and pulled out beef jerky so good that my wife has taken to eating it for breakfast with coffee. The big lesson of the food dehydrator, in other words, is that I missed my true calling: Master Snack Chef.

S FOR THE spiralizer, I should begin by saying that my particular model was called the Inspiralizer, which I think means something like “inspiring you by turning your food into spiral shapes.” Its creator, Ali Maffucci, told me spiralizers originated in Japan as tools for creating garnishes. “The raw vegans adopted it,” Maffucci said, “as a way of eating pasta, and they nicknamed it the spiralizer.” If you’re wondering how spirals equal pasta, it goes like this: Certain vegetables—zucchini chief among them—upon being run through a spiralizer, really do take on a noodle-like appearance. This caught the attention of the low-carb and gluten-free crowds, providing the killer app that broke spiralizers out of sushi-and-raw-vegan obscurity into mainstream trendiness. I find this depressing because it suggests that the only way we can imagine eating more vegetables and less pasta is by tricking ourselves into believing the former is the latter. My daughter, however, mentioned recently that a schoolmate’s mother was using a spiralizer at home. That mother happened to be Katie Morford, registered dietitian, big-league mommy blogger (momskitchen handbook.com) and author of Best Lunch Box Ever, from which my oldest daughter regularly makes the mashed-chickpea panini. “I’ve only had it a month,” Katie told me when I called. “But so far, I’m surprising myself. I really thought, like, How many zucchini noodles can you eat? But I’ve made some pretty delicious things.” Katie described a miso-mushroom-ginger soup with sweet-potato “noodles” that got me off the phone and spiralizing a purple yam that I found in the refrigerator. Observation No. 1: Watching a six-inch yam transformed into 15-foot-long ribbons feels very much like learning for the first time that we all have 25 feet of intestines tucked somewhere inside. Observation No. 2: Just because classical French knife work reflects the Enlightenment obsession with regular geometrical forms does not mean there is something inherently inferior about long spiral ribbon shapes. Quite the contrary. The spiralizer does what all culinary knife work does: It chops up food into smaller pieces optimized for cooking and eating. In the case of the spiralizer, that means a shape that, when cut from a russet, tossed with oil and popped into an air fryer, makes a remarkable stand-in for shoestring potatoes. It also means a shape that, when cut from a purple yam, cooks instantly in broth and hangs well on a fork—so well that I decided to heat up some chicken stock, season it with my powdered kimchi, drop in a little dehydrated kale and then add a handful of purple yam noodles to create a lunch that wasn’t bad at all.

HE PHILIPS AIRFRYER hasn’t been around long at all, unless you think of it as what it really is, a convection oven—meaning that it is simply an oven with a fan inside, just like the convection ovens that have been in restaurants for decades. Somebody at Philips seems to have noticed that if you toss raw potato sticks in a little oil and bake them in a convection oven for 10 minutes, they come out very much like French fries. The Airfryer, which looks a bit like Humpty Dumpty on your kitchen counter, has been engineered to capitalize on this miracle, and also to prey on the widespread misconception that all dietary fat is bad for us. Given the many reasons to believe that the health risk is the potato itself and not the oil (as long as you’re not using hydrogenated oil), this marketing campaign raises the infuriating specter of a company deliberately exploiting consumer ignorance. Once I got my Airfryer out of the box, however, I noticed that the included recipe book contained instructions for pankocrusted cod. This happens to be a go-to meal in my household, so I was fascinated to discover that simply mixing panko with a tablespoon of olive oil, then coating the fish and placing it inside this egg-shaped convection oven produced a crispy exterior almost identical to the one I get by shallow-frying in a skillet, but with a fraction of the oil and almost no mess. That alone could never justify keeping the Airfryer in nightly rotation, but two other uses come close: mixing together walnuts, almonds and pecans, air-frying them at 390˚ for three minutes to get them flawlessly toasted, then tossing them with olive oil and salt for a perfect party snack; and tearing over-the-hill bread into pieces, tossing those pieces with oil, putting them in the Airfryer for five minutes and watching them emerge as excellent croutons.

M A R C H 2016

San Francisco–based writer Daniel Duane is an F&W contributing editor and the author of How to Cook Like a Man.

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Natural Wine for Naysayers F&W’S RAY ISLE USED TO THINK NATURAL WINES WERE JUST WEIRD. THEN A TASTING WITH A PASSIONATE BELIEVER SURPRISED HIM. ILLUSTRATIONS BY BEN WISEMAN

T A DINNER PARTY once, an actor from Britain’s Royal Shakespeare Company told me that there was really only one way to deal with an awful performance by a friend. When you met him or her backstage, you said, “I thought your interpretation”—of Hamlet, Blanche DuBois, a talking dog, whatever—“was really very interesting.” This is how I have long felt about “natural” wines. The natural wine movement believes in minimal human intervention: no chemicals of any kind, no yeasts that came out of a factory, little or no sulfur as a preservative, no oak, no ﬁltering and the least amount of technology possible. Adherents are big on things like draft horses and amphorae; reverse osmosis machines and color-intensifying enzymes are the work of the devil. Don’t get me wrong: Philosophically and even morally it’s all very appealing. I just think that the wines, more often than not, taste like hell. Yet many people I respect love these wines. I’ll ask a somm pal at a downtown New York City restaurant to pour me something he or she thinks is amazing, and out will come some

M A R C H 2016

sort of cloudy, algae-smelling weirdness that seems like it was made by unwashed French hobbits. I’ll drink my glass and then, because I have good manners, when asked about it I’ll say, “You know, that is really very interesting.” In an attempt to unknot this problem, I decided to ask my friend Alice Feiring— a doyenne of natural wines who is the writer behind The Feiring Line blog and newsletter—to meet me at Wildair wine bar in Manhattan. I told her I wanted her to see if she could find a natural wine on the list that I would actually like. Her response was to laugh. Not surprising. Alice and I go back a ways and have a long-standing joke that if she loves a wine, I will almost certainly hate it, and vice versa. It’s been a remarkably reliable gauge, though we do both have a fondness for old Rioja. The first thing Alice pointed out once we were seated was that I might not have had much experience with natural wines from the past five years or so. I admitted this was true, as I tended to avoid them. She explained that the natural wine movement wasn’t all that old, when you came down to it, and many of its adherents had been

learning as they went. “A lot of these guys weren’t that experienced when they started,” she told me. “The earlier days were funkier and weirder,” she said, referring roughly to the era before 2000. “For example, people were putting wine into bottles too soon. Plus, not everyone realized what it meant not to work with perfectly clean grapes and to be completely clean in the cellar. So there was a lot of refermentation in the bottle. But eventually that ﬁrst generation got tired of shipping wines and having them explode in transit.”

AIR ENOUGH; I would, too. This conversation rolled along over glasses of a lightly sparkling Loire Valley wine that she’d ordered, Agnès and René Mosse’s Moussamoussettes. René, Alice said, was one of the gods of natural wine. Based in Anjou, he and his wife had originally owned a wine bar in Tours. Through it they met a lot of local vintners and eventually ended up selling the bar and a few years later, in 1999, buying a vineyard. The liquid in my glass, a blend of the obscure Loire variety Grolleau Gris with a little Gamay

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and Cabernet, was orange in hue and ﬁzzy, with a lightly musky juiciness. It was weird but charming; you ended up curious about its origins, like someone you meet at a party with an unidentiﬁable accent. I liked the wine (and I loved its name). Would I have rather had it than a glass of Bollinger? No.

UR PLAN WAS to delve deeper into weirdness as the evening progressed, but the next wine, a 2014 L’Anglore Terre d’Ombre, a Grenache from Tavel, in the Rhône Valley, was hardly over-the-top strange. Spicy and bright, it was light and vivid in a way that Rhône Grenaches often aren’t. L’Anglore’s owner-winemaker, Eric Pfifferling, is a former beekeeper. I think that’s great. We should have more beekeepers dropping everything to make a few cases of weird, geeky wine. Although definitely offbeat—I don’t usually think of radish as an aroma I get from Grenache—Pfifferling’s wine was also incredibly appealing. If I’d been in a dark mood, its lively nature would have cheered me right up. “Now this,” I said, “I like.” Unfortunately, I learned, so does everyone else. Obsessively hunted by the

“L’Anglore has become as scarce as cult Cabernets once were. Which does make me wonder: Can a wine smell like irony?”

M A R C H 2016

Natural Wine for Naysayers

somm crowd, bottles of L’Anglore are as scarce as California cult Cabernets once were. Which does make me wonder: Can a wine smell like irony? “Let’s try something more challenging,” Alice suggested. After a glance at the wine list, she picked a white from Cantina Giardino in southern Italy. Tannic, dark yellow and cloudy, it smelled to me like chicken soup and Band-Aids. We had definitely achieved weirdness, and if the L’Anglore was representative of the new, less overtly funky wave of natural wines, this one recalled the bad old days of unclean cellars and sketchy winemaking. I said as much, but Alice was undaunted: “To me, it has a healthful quality. It just feels so very drinkable. Part of what spurred the whole natural wine movement was this feeling that too much was being done to wine. This wine is the antithesis of that.” Finally we ordered the 2013 Mendall Espartal CS, a Cabernet Sauvignon from Laureano Serres, a winemaker in Spain’s Terre Alta region. “This is what I’d call a hard-core natural wine,” Alice said. In her monthly newsletter, particularly outré bottles—“hard-core”—are designated with a yellow fist-to-your-face emoji. “Laureano is a nut, but he’s a beautiful artist. Sometimes his wines are gorgeous as well as alive, but he can definitely be a little uneven. And he’d rather sell off his wife and children than add sulfur.” What can I say? Maybe pawn the family and add just a little sulfur? The wine smelled awful in a way that I, personally, just couldn’t get past: burnt matches mingling with a potent aroma of sauerkraut. Even Alice admitted that she

didn’t love it. “But I can drink it,” she said. “And he does make other wines I love. See, to me, a glass of Kistler” —one of California’s most sought-after Chardonnays— “has no drinkability. It’s made for a speciﬁc taste, a market. It never surprises me. I can take a few sips out of intellectual curiosity, but that’s it.”

HICH I THINK is a good point, odd as it sounds. An argument I’ve made in the past about natural wine lovers is that for them, belief trumps taste: To them, it matters more that a wine was made without industrial yeasts and so on than that it tastes foul. But since sitting down with Alice, I’ve decided that may not be true. Instead, as with relationships, part of the problem simply might be that what one person loves, another may ﬁnd unbearable. Consider this: A couple of weeks after my dinner with Alice, I bought what I’d consider a “hard-core” natural wine—the 2013 d’Agalis “Yo No Puedo Màs”—and served it to my in-laws. (Whether it’s fair to them or not, they’re my control group for what normal humans think of a wine.) A red blend from France’s Languedoc region, it smells, more or less, of both a barnyard and the animals in it. But if you could get past that, the wine does have lots of fruitiness and verve. As it happened, every one of my in-laws loathed it—comments ranged from “Ugh!” and “What is that?” to “Jesus, give me a beer”—except for one of my wife’s cousins. She said, with a shrug, “Well, I like it. I think you’re all nuts.”

WINE TALK

wine until I was 36 years old, but my friend Greg Gorman, the photographer, was crazy on getting me to try it. One time, back in 2000, he said, “Hey, I’m having a wine party at my house with Peter. You should come.” And I was like, OK, he’s having a party with some guy named Peter, whatever. Then he said, “And by the way Pamela Anderson’s going to be there.” So I said, “Hell yeah.” Wine or not, I can’t wait to meet Pamela Anderson. And I show up with these pants that look like leather and ﬁnd out it wasn’t a guy named Peter—it was a party for PETA.

Height of a barrel of wine

Q. Awkward. What ﬁnally changed your mind about wine, though? A. A glass of Lancaster Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, from Sonoma County. This was back when you could still carry your wine on a plane. My friend Andre opened up a bottle on a ﬂight, and we had plastic cups— you know, how brothers do it? I’ll never forget tasting that wine.

Height of John Salley

6'11"

Q. What was it like? A. It looked like the thickest grape juice ever, and when I smelled it, I had the same feeling as when you kiss somebody you like. Andre was like, “Just roll it over your tongue, get some air in there.” I was like, “Holy shit!” And Andre goes, “Right. That’s the feeling of wine.”

Wine’s Power Forward JOHN SALLEY, THE NBA GREAT AND BORN-AGAIN VEGAN, ON THE WINES THAT KEEP HIS BODY STRONG.

Q. Your new company, The Vegan Vine, sells wine that is made without the use of any animal products whatsoever. Does it actually taste different?

INTERVIEW BY RAY ISLE

M A R C H 2016

CHANCE THAT ANY GIVEN PERSON IN THE U.S. IS A VEGAN:

2% CHANCE THAT ANY GIVEN PERSON IS AN NBA PLAYER:

.0000014% A. I tell people, “Look, it’s just a great California wine, and this is my way of promoting veganism.” It’s grown and produced by Clos LaChance on the Central Coast. The only difference is it doesn’t use a product made from fish bladders or egg whites for fining [a traditional way of clarifying wine]. But people say the craziest things to me, like, “Can I drink this in a steakhouse?” And I go, “Yeah, if you’re going to be eating a vegan for dinner, then you can drink it in a steakhouse.” Q. What was it that made you want to become a vegan to begin with? A. When people ask me what I eat as a vegan, I say, “Everything but dead stuff.” Because if you put all this dead stuff in your body, after a while your body just isn’t going to work. And man, I’m a Mustang Sally. I came out in 1964, and I just want to keep everything about this body as close to mint condition as I can. There’s a lot of miles on these wheels. But I’m keeping the rest of the car in tip-top shape—because it’s the only body I have.

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

from top: james mueller; nathaniel s. butler/contributor/getty images

Q. How did you ﬁrst get into wine? A. I really didn’t drink any

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HOW NOT A Guide to Healthy Eating Bad habits and powerful cravings can undermine any attempt to eat well. Hereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s how to not give in, with delicious recipes from Justin Chapple and Kay Chun of the F&W Test Kitchen. PRODUCED BY KATE HEDDINGS PHOTOGRAPHS BY CON POULOS ILLUSTRATIONS BY MURPHY LIPPINCOTT

food stylist: simon andrews; style editor: suzie myers

The recipe on p. 110 makes just enough dough for one medium chocolate-chunk cookie. Photo not to scale!

Plate by Sarah Kersten.

Quick-Pickled Vegetable Salad with Harissa Vinaigrette Active 30 min; Total 1 hr 15 min Serves 4 4 medium carrots, sliced into thin rounds 4 medium inner celery ribs, thinly sliced on the bias, plus ½ cup lightly packed celery leaves 1 cup thinly sliced white onion ¾ cup plus 2 Tbsp. distilled white vinegar 2 garlic cloves 2 Tbsp. sugar Kosher salt and pepper 3½ Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil ½ cup pumpkin seeds (pepitas) 1 Tbsp. harissa Three 6-oz. romaine hearts, dark outer leaves removed and inner leaves torn into bite-size pieces (10 cups)

1. In a heatproof medium bowl, combine the carrots, celery ribs and onion. In a medium saucepan, combine ¾ cup of the vinegar with the garlic, sugar, 1½ cups water and 1½ tablespoons of salt and cook over moderate heat until the sugar dissolves, about 3 minutes. Pour the hot brine over the vegetables and

let stand until cool, about 30 minutes. Drain the vegetables and refrigerate until just chilled, about 15 minutes; discard the garlic. Reserve the brine for another use.

Charred Broccolini and Escarole Salad

2. Meanwhile, in a small skillet, heat ½ tablespoon of the olive oil. Add the pumpkin seeds and a pinch each of salt and pepper and cook over moderate heat, stirring, until lightly browned, about 2 minutes. Let cool.

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for brushing

Total 40 min; Serves 4 2 lbs. Broccolini, thick stems halved lengthwise

Kosher salt and pepper Two 3/4 -inch-thick slices cut from a sourdough boule 1 garlic clove, halved

3. In a serving bowl, whisk the harissa with the remaining 3 tablespoons of olive oil and 2 tablespoons of white vinegar; season with salt and pepper. Add the romaine, drained pickled vegetables and celery leaves and toss well; season with salt and pepper and toss again. Sprinkle the toasted pumpkin seeds on top and serve. —Justin Chapple

¼ cup Champagne vinegar ½ cup thinly sliced red onion 8 cups torn white and light green escarole leaves 1 fresh hot red chile— stemmed, seeded and very thinly sliced

1. Light a grill or preheat a grill pan. In a large bowl, toss the Broccolini with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil; season with salt and pepper. Grill over moderately high heat until lightly charred and crisp-tender, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a work surface; cut in half crosswise.

MAKE AHEAD The drained pickled vegetables can be refrigerated for up to 1 week. WINE Racy, briny Greek

island white: 2015 Domaine Sigalas Santorini.

2. Brush the bread with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Grill over moderately high heat, turning once, until lightly browned and crisp, about 3 minutes total. Transfer to a plate and rub with the cut sides of the garlic clove. Let cool slightly, then tear into bite-size pieces. 3. In a serving bowl, mix the vinegar, onion and the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Add the escarole, Broccolini, garlic bread and chile and toss well. Season with salt and pepper, toss again and serve. —JC WINE Exuberant, red-fruited

Sangiovese: 2013 Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Classico RS.

Bowl from Irving Place Studio; plate by E Clark Marshall; salad servers from Suite NY. M A R C H 2016

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

The Broccolini in this escarole salad is nicely smoky.

2 HOW TO NOT EAT A BORING SALAD:

PICKLE OR CHAR

THE VEGETABLES

The carrots, celery and onion here pickle in only half an hour.

HOW TO NOT EAT PASTA:

TURN YOUR VEGETABLES INTO NOODLES

Zucchini Noodles with Chicken and Ginger Dressing Total 40 min; Serves 4 6 Tbsp. canola oil 3 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice ¼ cup ﬁnely grated peeled fresh ginger ½ tsp. ﬁnely grated garlic 2 Tbsp. chopped scallions, plus more for garnish 2 Tbsp. toasted sesame seeds, plus more for garnish Kosher salt and pepper 4 zucchini (1¾ lbs.), spiralized 1 bunch of watercress, thick stems discarded (8 cups) 2 cups shredded rotisserie chicken

1. In a large bowl, whisk the oil with the lemon juice, ginger, garlic and the 2 tablespoons each of scallions and sesame seeds; season with salt and pepper. 2. Fill a bowl with ice water. In a large saucepan of salted boiling water, blanch the zucchini for 30 seconds. Drain, then transfer to the ice water to cool. Drain well and pat thoroughly dry with paper towels. Add the zucchini, watercress and chicken to the dressing in the bowl and season with salt and pepper. Toss to evenly coat. Garnish with scallions and sesame seeds and serve. —Kay Chun MAKE AHEAD The dressing

can be refrigerated overnight. WINE Fruit-driven Oregon

white: 2014 Adelsheim Vineyard Pinot Gris.

Plate by E Clark Marshall. M A R C H 2016

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

CHAR AND TROUT

FISH LIKE

BUY SUSTAINABLE

HOW TO NOT FEEL GUILTY ABOUT YOUR SEAFOOD CHOICES:

Jerk seasonings transform trout (p. 95); caraway and fennel seeds spice arctic char (p. 95).

HOW TO NOT GET GRUMPY:

“I INDULGE AT RESTAURANTS BUT EAT LOTS OF VEGETABLES AND DRINK LOTS OF WATER AT HOME. IT’S A PENDULUM.” –CHEF KATIE BUTTON, CÚRATE, ASHEVILLE, NORTH CAROLINA

Spaghetti with Mushroom Bolognese

8 oz. shiitake mushrooms, stemmed, caps cut into ¼-inch dice

Active 1 hr; Total 2 hr 30 min Serves 4

Kosher salt and pepper 5 garlic cloves, minced

¼ cup dried porcini mushrooms

2 Tbsp. tomato paste

6 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

1 Tbsp. white miso

1 small onion, cut into ¼-inch dice

One 2-inch chunk of Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, plus grated cheese for serving

2 medium carrots, peeled and cut into ¼-inch dice

One 28-oz. can whole peeled tomatoes, crushed

1 baby eggplant (8 oz.), peeled and cut into ¼-inch dice

1 thyme sprig

1 lb. cremini mushrooms, one-fourth sliced, the rest cut into ¼-inch dice

½ tsp. turbinado sugar 12 oz. spaghetti 2 Tbsp. chopped parsley

1. In a small bowl, cover the porcini with 1 cup of boiling water; soak until softened, about 30 minutes. Finely chop the porcini, discarding any tough bits. Pour off and reserve 1/2 cup of the soaking liquid. 2. In a large enameled cast-iron casserole, heat 2 tablespoons of the oil. Add the onion and carrots and cook over moderate heat until light golden, about 8 minutes. Add the eggplant and 2 tablespoons of the oil and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, 8 minutes. Stir in the cremini, shiitake, chopped porcini and the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil and season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms are golden, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in the garlic, tomato paste and miso and cook for 2 minutes. Add the chunk of cheese, the tomatoes and their juices, the thyme, sugar and reserved mushroom soaking liquid and bring to a simmer. 3. Cover and cook over low heat, stirring occasionally, until the sauce is very thick, about 1 hour and 30 minutes. Discard the thyme sprig; season the sauce with salt and pepper. 4. In a pot of salted boiling water, cook the spaghetti until al dente. Drain, reserving ¼ cup of the pasta water. 5. Add the pasta, pasta water and parsley to the sauce; toss to coat. Serve in bowls, topped with grated cheese. —KC MAKE AHEAD The mushroom Bolognese can be refrigerated for 2 days. WINE Earthy, red currant–

fruited Nebbiolo: 2013 Ar.Pe. Pe. Rosso di Valtellina.

For another smart swap, try the butternut squash steaks on p. 108.

Bowl by Sarah Kersten; fork from Menu Design Shop. M A R C H 2016

HOW TO NOT CRAVE FRIED FOOD:

GET CRUNCH FROM This pork recipe (p. 95) is a serious upgrade on Shake ’N Bake.

Board from Blackcreek Mercantile & Trading Co.; knife from A+R.

HOW TO NOT GET GRUMPY:

“I DO GET GRUMPY—ASK MY PUBLICIST. AND MY WIFE. BUT I FIND THAT A PEANUT-BUTTER-AND-DATE SMOOTHIE IS A NICE MOOD BREAKER.” –CHEF RICHARD BLAIS, JUNIPER AND IVY, SAN DIEGO

Steamed Bok Choy with Mapo-Style Pork Total 30 min; Serves 4 2½ tsp. cornstarch 1 Tbsp. canola oil ½ lb. ground pork ½ tsp. ground Sichuan peppercorns Kosher salt 1 Tbsp. Asian chile-bean sauce 1 Tbsp. hoisin sauce 1 Tbsp. soy sauce ¼ cup thinly sliced scallions, plus more for garnish Four 6- to 8-oz. heads of baby bok choy, halved lengthwise

1. In a small bowl, whisk the cornstarch with 1¼ cups of water. In a large skillet, heat the oil. Add the pork, peppercorns and a generous pinch of salt and cook over high heat, stirring and breaking up the meat, until crumbly and lightly browned, about 3 minutes. Stir in the chile-bean, hoisin M A R C H 2016

and soy sauces and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Stir in the cornstarch slurry and simmer until thickened, about 2 minutes. Stir in the ¼ cup of sliced scallions and season with salt. Keep warm over very low heat. 2. Meanwhile, set a steamer basket in a large saucepan. Add 1 inch of water and bring to a boil. Add the bok choy to the basket, cover and steam until crisp-tender, 4 to 6 minutes. Transfer to plates or a platter. 3. Spoon the pork over the bok choy, garnish with sliced scallions and serve right away. —JC

HOW TO NOT GET GRUMPY:

“I THINK PHO IS AN EMOTIONAL CURE-ALL. I EAT IT EVERY DAY FOR BREAKFAST.” –CHEF MICHAEL

MAKE AHEAD The pork can be refrigerated overnight. Reheat gently before serving. WINE Bright, peachy Riesling:

2014 Hermann J. Wiemer Finger Lakes Dry.

GULOTTA, MOPHO, NEW ORLEANS 88

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

Pounded Beef Tenderloin with Hearts of Palm Salad Total 30 min; Serves 4 1 lb. center-cut beef tenderloin, cut crosswise into 4 slices and lightly pounded 1/8 inch thick 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for brushing Kosher salt and pepper 1½ Tbsp. fresh lemon juice, plus lemon wedges for serving 2 Tbsp. minced shallot 1½ tsp. Dijon mustard 4 oz. watercress, thick stems discarded (6 cups) One 15-oz. can hearts of palm, drained and sliced ¼ inch thick on the bias 1 Hass avocado, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces 1/3

cup snipped chives

1. Heat a large grill pan for 10 minutes. Brush the steaks with oil; season with salt and pepper. Grill over high heat until lightly charred, 45 seconds. Flip and grill until medium rare, 30 seconds. Transfer to plates. 2. In a large bowl, whisk the 2 tablespoons of oil with the lemon juice, shallot and mustard; season with salt and pepper. Add the watercress, hearts of palm and avocado, season with salt and pepper and toss. Mound the salad beside the steaks, top with the chives and serve with lemon wedges. —JC WINE Minerally, light red: 2013

Domaine Robert Chevillon Bourgogne Passetoutgrain.

Plates by Miro Made This; small dish by Humble Ceramics; ﬂatware by Mepra from TableArt. 89

Oatmeal Soufflé Active 30 min; Total 1 hr Serves 4 1 cup extra-thick rolled oats 3 cups whole milk 2 Tbsp. turbinado sugar Pinch of kosher salt 3 large eggs, separated 2 cups mixed raspberries and blueberries ½ tsp. ﬁnely grated lemon zest Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting Pure maple syrup, for serving (optional)

1. Preheat the oven to 350°. Butter a 2-quart baking dish. 2. In a large saucepan, combine the oats, milk, turbinado sugar and salt and bring to a simmer.

Cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until thickened to a porridge consistency, about 15 minutes. Remove from the heat; let cool slightly. 3. Working quickly, stir the egg yolks into the oatmeal until well blended. Fold in 1 cup of the berries and the lemon zest. 4. In a large bowl, using a hand mixer, beat the egg whites at medium speed until mediumstiff peaks form, about 3 minutes. Gently fold the whites into the oatmeal just until combined. Scrape the mixture into the prepared dish and bake for about 30 minutes, until golden and puffed. Dust with confectioners’ sugar and serve hot with the remaining 1 cup of berries and maple syrup, if desired. —KC MAKE AHEAD The oatmeal

can be prepared through Step 2 and refrigerated for 3 days. Rewarm with some milk to loosen the oatmeal to a porridge consistency before proceeding.

Skillet by Borough Furnace. M A R C H 2016

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

For another way to bake without butter, try the blueberry yogurt cake on p. 108.

Almond Shortbread Cookies

½ cup sliced almonds

OR NUT BUTTER

1¼ cups all-purpose ﬂ our

COCONUT OIL

SWAP IN YOGURT,

HOW TO NOT BAKE WITH BUTTER:

Active 25 min; Total 45 min plus cooling; Makes about 2 dozen

½ cup almond meal ½ tsp. kosher salt ½ cup smooth unsalted roasted almond butter ½ cup reﬁned coconut oil, melted ½ cup granulated sugar ¼ cup turbinado sugar 1 tsp. pure vanilla extract

1. Preheat the oven to 350°. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

2. Spread the sliced almonds in a pie plate and bake for about 8 minutes, until golden. Let cool, then coarsely chop. 3. In a medium bowl, whisk the flour with the almond meal and salt. In a large bowl, using a hand mixer at medium speed, beat the almond butter with the coconut oil, both sugars and the vanilla until well blended, about 1 minute. Beat in the flour mixture and chopped almonds just until combined. 4. Scoop 2-tablespoon-size mounds of dough onto the prepared baking sheet 1 inch apart and flatten to a ¼-inch thickness. Bake the cookies for 15 to 18 minutes, until golden. Transfer to a rack and let cool completely. —KC MAKE AHEAD The cookies can be refrigerated in an airtight container for 1 week.

HOW TO NOT GET GRUMPY:

“I THINK A WELL-MADE RAMEN CAN HELP YOU FORGET YOUR WORRIES AS YOU CONCENTRATE ON ALL THE LITTLE TREASURES IN THE BOWL.” –JOHNNY IUZZINI, PASTRY CHEF AND AUTHOR OF SUGAR RUSH 91

TEA

Hibiscus-Tangerine Iced Tea Active 10 min; Total 30 min Serves 4 12 hibiscus tea bags 4 cups boiling water 2 cups fresh tangerine juice, plus 1 thinly sliced tangerine Ice

1. In a heatproof bowl, cover the tea bags with the boiling water. Let steep for 20 minutes. Strain the tea through a fine sieve into another heatproof bowl. Let cool to room temperature, then stir in the tangerine juice. 2. Divide the tea and all but 4 tangerine slices among 4 icefilled glasses. Garnish with the reserved tangerine slices. â&#x20AC;&#x201D;KC MAKE AHEAD The tea can be refrigerated for 2 days.

Glasses by Fferrone.

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

M A R C H 2016

Apple Cider–Ginger Shrub

Total 15 min; Serves 4

REFRESHING MOCKTAIL

TRY A TART,

HOW TO NOT HAVE A BOOZY DRINK:

3 Pink Lady apples, chopped into 1-inch pieces, plus thin slices for garnish

1/3

cup ﬁnely chopped peeled fresh ginger

4½ tsp. unpasteurized apple cider vinegar Ice Chilled seltzer, for topping

1. In a blender, combine the chopped apples, ginger, vinegar and 1 tablespoon of water and puree until smooth. Strain through a fine sieve, pressing on the solids. 2. Fill a cocktail shaker with ice. Add half of the apple-ginger juice and shake well. Strain into 2 coupe glasses and top each with a splash of seltzer. Repeat with the remaining apple-ginger juice and more seltzer. Garnish with apple slices and serve. —KC

Apple-ginger shrub (far left) has a vinegary tang; the minty “fauxjito” (p. 108) gets its zip from lime juice.

Tumbler from Dandelion; pilsner glass from March. 94

HOW TO NOT GET GRUMPY:

“WHENEVER I’M HANGRY, MY GO-TO IS ANYTHING INVOLVING RICE. IF I DON’T EAT RICE AT LEAST FOUR TIMES A WEEK, MY STAFF WILL FEEL IT.” –CHEF LEAH COHEN, PIG AND KHAO, MANHATTAN

HOW TO NOT CRAVE FRIED FOOD

Crispy Shake-andBake Pork

VARIATION Crispy Shake-andBake Chicken Drumsticks Follow the recipe through Step 2, then bake for 30 to 35 minutes.

page 87

VARIATION Crispy Shake-and-

Active 10 min; Total 30 min Serves 4

Bake Fish Sticks Use flaky white fish, such as cod, cut into 3/4-inch-thick sticks. Follow the recipe through Step 2, then bake for 12 to 15 minutes.

7 oz. unsweetened shredded wheat cereal, crushed (3 cups)

1. Make the collard slaw In a large bowl, combine the yogurt, olive oil, lemon juice and garlic. Whisk until smooth. Add the collards, cabbage, celery and dill, season with salt and pepper and toss to coat. 2. Make the jerk trout In a small bowl, mix all of the seasonings. Rub the trout all over with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Sprinkle the spice rub over the flesh side of the trout, patting gently to help it adhere.

Kosher salt 2 tsp. dried oregano 2 tsp. dried parsley

HOW TO NOT FEEL GUILTY ABOUT YOUR SEAFOOD CHOICES

3. In a large nonstick skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of the oil. Add 2 trout fillets, skin side down, and cook over moderately high heat until golden and crisp, about 3 minutes. Flip the fish and cook over moderate heat until golden and just cooked through, about 2 minutes longer. Transfer to plates. Wipe out the skillet and repeat with the remaining oil and trout fillets. Serve with the collard slaw. —KC

2 tsp. celery salt 1 tsp. garlic powder 1 tsp. granulated onion 1 tsp. paprika

Jerk Trout with Collard Slaw Total 45 min; Serves 4 COLLARD SLAW

1 tsp. pepper, plus more for seasoning

½ cup fat-free Greek yogurt

7 Tbsp. canola oil

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

Four ½-inch-thick boneless rib pork chops (about 6 oz. each) Lemon wedges, for serving

1. Preheat the oven to 450°. Set a rack over a baking sheet. In a medium bowl, combine the shredded wheat, 2 teaspoons of salt, all the spices and 5 tablespoons of oil. Mix well and transfer to a resealable plastic bag. 2. Rub the pork all over with the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil; season lightly with salt and pepper. Put each slice of pork in the bag; shake to evenly coat and press to help the crumbs adhere. Transfer to the rack. 3. Bake the chops for about 20 minutes, until golden and cooked through. Serve with lemon wedges. —KC MAKE AHEAD The shredded

wheat coating can be refrigerated overnight.

2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice 1 tsp. ﬁnely grated garlic 12 oz. collard greens, stems discarded and leaves ﬁnely shredded (6 cups)

MAKE AHEAD The spice rub can be stored at room temperature for 2 weeks.

¼ head of red cabbage, ﬁnely shredded (4 cups) 2 celery ribs, thinly sliced

WINE Lush but vibrant Char-

2 Tbsp. chopped dill

donnay: 2014 Porter-Bass Poco a Poco.

Kosher salt and pepper JERK TROUT

2 tsp. dried oregano

Spiced Arctic Char with Crushed Sunchokes, Capers and Lemon

1 tsp. dried thyme

Total 1 hr; Serves 4

1 Tbsp. crushed red pepper

1½ lbs. sunchokes, half peeled and half left unpeeled, cut into 1-inch pieces

½ tsp. ground allspice ½ tsp. ground cumin ¼ tsp. black pepper, plus more for seasoning

Kosher salt and pepper

Four 6-oz. skin-on trout ﬁllets, pinbones removed

¼ cup plus 1 Tbsp. extravirgin olive oil

6 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

1/3

Kosher salt

cup ﬁnely chopped parsley

2½ Tbsp. fresh lemon juice, plus lemon wedges for serving

WINE Fruit-forward Cal-Italian

2½ Tbsp. capers, ﬁnely chopped ¾ tsp. caraway seeds ¾ tsp. fennel seeds ¾ tsp. coriander seeds ¾ tsp. sweet pimentón de la Vera Four 5- to 6-oz. skin-on arctic char ﬁllets

1. In a large saucepan, cover the sunchokes with water and bring to a boil. Add a generous pinch of salt and simmer over moderate heat until tender, about 10 minutes. Drain well. Return the sunchokes to the saucepan and add ¼ cup of olive oil along with the parsley, lemon juice and capers. Using a wooden spoon, gently crush the sunchokes with the other ingredients. Season with salt and pepper and mix again. Cover and keep warm. 2. Meanwhile, in a small skillet, toast the caraway, fennel and coriander seeds over moderate heat, stirring, until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a spice grinder and let cool, then grind into a powder. Transfer the spice mix to a small bowl and stir in the pimentón. Season the fish all over with salt, pepper and the spice mix. 3. In a large nonstick skillet, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon of olive oil. Add the fish, skin side down, and cook over moderately high heat until the skin is golden and crisp, about 3 minutes. Flip the fish and cook until medium, 2 to 3 minutes longer. Drain briefly on paper towels, then transfer to plates. Pile the crushed sunchokes alongside and serve with lemon wedges. —JC WINE Quince-scented Loire

Valley Chenin Blanc: 2014 Château d’Épiré Savennières.

red: 2013 Palmina Dolcetto. continued on p. 108

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

M A R C H 2016

Australia’s Byron Bay, just a short ﬂight from Sydney, is home to spectacular beaches and brilliant chefs who love to surf. Here, the healthy recipes that give everyone the energy to spend hours and hours on the waves.

BY GISELA WILLIAMS PHOTOGRAPHS BY TARA PEARCE

Short Ribs with Serrano Chimichurri and Jicama-Radish Salad, p. 111

Locals dining at The Roadhouse.

Three Blue Ducks’ chef Mark LaBrooy.

Our Corner Store

Bangalow’s charmingly old-fashioned main street.

CORNER KITCHEN Like Sydney locals, people in Byron Bay are spoiled when it comes to expertly made lattes and gorgeous breakfasts. Among the options: Top Shop, near the main beach, which serves single-origin coffee and what some claim is the best burger in town, and Federal Doma Cafe, where Japanese hipsters prepare sushi and poached eggs with Asian-style hash browns. The new favorite breakfast destination is Corner Kitchen, located on the charmingly old-fashioned main street of Bangalow, a short drive west from Byron Bay. Opened by the owners of the nearby Our Corner Store (a whitewashed boutique filled with unusual design objects such as animal-head hooks, as well as necessities like the perfect jeans), it is less a surfer hangout than a stylish all-day café. Owner Aneka Sidoti’s menu is as well curated as her store, offering a superb mix of wholesome meals and indulgent baked goods, like the signature Hummingbird, a frosted banana-spice mini cake. The Kitchen makes a killer three-egg omelet, filled with zucchini ribbons, goat cheese and spinach and served with homemade sourdough bread and a cultishly sought-after chile jam. Just as popular is the smoked-trout-flecked kedgeree (opposite), full of enough healthy proteins to keep surfers going all day long. 18 Station St., Bangalow; ourcornerstore.com.au.

in Sydney these days, there’s a good chance you’ll find him or her in the town of Byron Bay. The past few years have seen an exodus of urban Australians to Byron Shire, a lush and hilly region about 470 miles north of Sydney, near the Gold Coast. Pristine beaches stretch for miles with views of breaching whales and amazingly consistent point breaks. Centered on Byron Bay, which juts out like a nose into the Pacific, the area has long been a destination for small farmers, international surfers and hippies. Now, a small but steady flow of talented chefs and restaurateurs who want to disconnect from the stress of city life are settling in. “There is a bit of a culinary renaissance going on in Byron,” says Darren Robertson, one of the scruffily handsome founders of Three Blue Ducks, a Sydney café that helped spearhead the local and sustainable food scene. Last year Robertson and his partners left the city to open an offshoot of Three Blue Ducks in Byron, joining a crew of entrepreneurs behind the ambitious but beach-shack-inspired restaurants, boutique hotels and coffee shops that are scattered around the region. (The baristas take as much care with their espresso pulls as they do their surfboards.) The food at these places tends to be next-level hippie: healthy, delicious dishes like jerk chicken served with raw spinach and quinoa, or kedgeree, a spiced rice bowl loaded with smoked fish and boiled eggs. “If you live an outdoor life and have a passion for exploring, what you put in your body definitely influences your energy and vitality,” Robertson says. “We noticed when we started to introduce pulses, nuts and grains into our diet, and reduced some of the sugar, that we could spend a few hours longer out on the waves.” Gisela Williams is the European correspondent for Food & Wine. She lives in Berlin but wants to move with her family to Byron Bay.

M A R C H 2016

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

Kedgeree with Mango Chutney and Soft-Boiled Eggs Active 1 hr; Total 2 hr; Serves 4 MANGO CHUTNEY

3 cups ﬁnely chopped mango (from 2 mangoes) 1 medium yellow onion, ﬁnely chopped 1 medium Granny Smith apple—peeled, cored and coarsely grated ½ serrano chile, seeded and minced ½ cup red wine vinegar ¼ cup plus 2 Tbsp. light brown sugar KEDGEREE

2 cups basmati rice 3 whole star anise One 3-inch cinnamon stick Kosher salt and pepper 3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil 2 tsp. brown mustard seeds 1 small yellow onion, finely chopped 1 large garlic clove, minced 2 Tbsp. curry powder ¼ cup dried currants 3 smoked trout fillets (9 oz.), skinned, meat flaked into large pieces 1/2

cup heavy cream

2 Tbsp. chopped parsley 4 large eggs

1. Make the mango chutney In a medium saucepan, combine the mango, onion, apple, chile, vinegar and brown sugar. Cover with a parchment paper round or lid and cook over moderately low heat, stirring occasionally, until the apple and onion are very soft, 45 minutes. Let cool completely.

2. Make the kedgeree In a medium saucepan, combine the basmati rice with the star anise, cinnamon stick, 2 teaspoons of salt and 3 cups of water. Bring to a boil, cover and cook over low heat until the rice is tender, about 15 minutes. Let stand, covered, for 5 minutes. Discard the star anise and cinnamon stick. 3. In a large skillet, heat the olive oil. Add the mustard seeds and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until the seeds begin to pop, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the onion and garlic, season with salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 8 minutes. Stir in the curry powder and cook until fragrant, 2 minutes. Add the rice along with the currants and smoked trout. Cook over moderate heat, stirring a few times, until the trout is warm, 3 minutes. Add the cream and 1½ tablespoons of the parsley and cook, stirring occasionally, until heated through. Season with salt and pepper. 4. Bring a medium saucepan of water to a boil. Add the eggs and simmer over moderate heat for 6 minutes. Pour off the hot water and gently shake the eggs in the pan to crack the shells. Fill the pan with cold water and let stand for 1 minute. Peel the eggs. Add 2 inches of water to the saucepan and bring to a simmer. Add the peeled eggs and warm them for 2 minutes. Carefully drain and pat dry. Cut the eggs in half. 5. Top the kedgeree with the soft-boiled eggs, garnish with the remaining 1/2 tablespoon of parsley and serve with the mango chutney. MAKE AHEAD The chutney can be refrigerated for 2 weeks. Serve at room temperature. WINE Juicy, herb-inflected

Spanish white: 2014 Telmo Rodríguez Gaba do Xil Godello.

“The food in Byron tends to be next-level hippie: healthy and delicious dishes like kedgeree, a spiced rice bowl loaded with smoked fish and boiled eggs.”

Green Vegetables with Dukka and Tahini Dressing Total 50 min; Serves 4

This salad gets extra crunch from sprouted, or activated, almonds that are soaked in water. Find them at Whole Foods and health food stores. DUKKA

3 Tbsp. hazelnuts 1 Tbsp. coriander seeds 1½ tsp. cumin seeds 1 Tbsp. toasted sesame seeds

¾ tsp. pepper ½ tsp. Maldon salt DRESSING

¼ cup tahini ¼ cup tamari ¼ cup apple cider vinegar ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil 1 small garlic clove, thinly sliced ¼ cup parsley leaves ½ tsp. honey Kosher salt and pepper STEAMED VEGETABLES

8 oz. sugar snap peas, trimmed 1 bunch of Broccolini or broccoli, trimmed and cut into 2-inch lengths 8 oz. asparagus, trimmed and cut into 3-inch pieces ½ cup sprouted almonds

1. Make the dukka Preheat the oven to 350°. Spread the hazelnuts in a pie plate; toast until golden and the skins blister, 10 to 12 minutes. Let cool slightly. Transfer to a clean kitchen towel and rub off the skins. 2. In a small skillet, toast the coriander and cumin seeds over moderate heat until fragrant, shaking the pan, 2 to 3 minutes. In a mortar or mini food processor, pound the seeds until finely ground. Add the hazelnuts, sesame seeds, pepper and Maldon salt to the mortar and crush the hazelnuts into ¼-inch bits. 3. Make the dressing In a blender, combine the tahini, tamari, vinegar, olive oil, garlic, parsley and honey. Blend until smooth and season with salt and pepper. 4. Cook the vegetables Set a steamer basket over, but not in, a large saucepan of boiling water. Add the snap peas, cover and steam until tender, 2 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the snap peas to a rack set over a rimmed baking sheet to cool slightly. Add the Broccolini to the steamer basket, cover and cook until tender, about 5 minutes. Transfer the Broccolini to the rack to drain. Add the asparagus to the steamer basket, cover and cook until tender, about 5 minutes. 5. In a large bowl, toss the peas, Broccolini and asparagus with ½ cup of the tahini dressing and 3 tablespoons of the dukka. Garnish with the sprouted almonds and more dukka. Serve the remaining dressing on the side. MAKE AHEAD The dukka can be kept in an airtight container for 2 weeks. The tahini dressing can be refrigerated for 4 days.

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F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

food stylist: jane frosh

“Co-owner Adam Coates eats at The Roadhouse seven days a week. ‘That’s why I created this place,’ he says. ‘I felt Byron Bay needed an everyday restaurant that served healthy and aﬀordable meals.’ ”

THE ROADHOUSE

Ask anyone in Byron for his or her favorite restaurant, and the answer is always the same: The Roady, a.k.a. The Roadhouse. Opened about three years ago on the edge of Byron Bay, this small pub-like place has an Old West meets surf shack vibe. Some customers come for drinks—bartender Heath Newman forages for local herbs and fruits to use in holistic tinctures infused with small-batch spirits. Others swing by for a meal (The Roady is famous for its spicy ﬁsh tacos) and stay for hours on the wraparound terrace. Co-owner Adam Coates eats there seven days a week. “That’s why I created this place,” he says. “As a local I felt that Byron Bay was missing an everyday place that served healthy and aﬀordable meals.”

Everything that’s served at The Roadhouse is freshly prepped in the morning, and more than a dozen dishes are oﬀered daily, written up on a blackboard that hangs in the bar. Much of the produce on the menu is sourced from nearby One Organic farm. Coates says that the culinary manifesto of The Roadhouse is dishes that contain the “maximum density of nutrition” but are also delicious. One example: A healthy mix of steamed green vegetables served with tahini sauce, sprouted almonds and the Egyptian nut-and-spice condiment dukka (opposite) is loaded with crunch. Desserts, like a lemon ricotta and honey cheesecake with a crust made of ground almonds, are almost always gluten-free, but no one writes the G word on the menu. 6/142 Bangalow Rd., Byron Bay; byronbaycafebar.com.au.

THREE BLUE DUCKS

The year-old Byron outpost of Sydney’s Three Blue Ducks is set in an agrarian utopia called The Farm. Located just outside Byron Bay, the 86-acre property includes vegetable gardens as well as a flower shop, market, bakery, foraging trail, yoga studio and cricket pitch. At Three Blue Ducks, chefs Darren Robertson and Mark LaBrooy focus on ingredients produced on the property— for instance, the giant heads of kale from the vegetable gardens and free-range chickens from the mobile coops. Robertson and LaBrooy specialize in Asian flavors, using bones from cows at The Farm to make broth for their rich pho. They season the short ribs with five-spice powder before grilling, then serve the beef with a vibrant radish salad tossed with yuzu dressing and a handful of herbs from the foraging trail (p. 111). At least half of the baked goods in the glass display case at the Farm’s café are gluten-free, and desserts often call for alternatives to refined sugar, like charred mangoes with ricotta and honey (p. 110). The cooks at Three Blue Ducks aren’t completely health-obsessed, though. They also make the best, most decadent snack in town: salted-caramel banana muffins. 11 Ewingsdale Rd., Ewingsdale; threeblueducks.com.

Chef Mark LaBrooy, uses all parts of the animals raised on The Farm; he also makes healthy desserts like charred mangoes with ricotta (p. 110). OPPOSITE,

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M A R C H 2016

FLEET Last year a small group of chefs from the world-famous Noma in Copenhagen traveled to the tiny, funky beach town of Brunswick Heads outside Byron Bay. They wanted to visit their former colleague Josh Lewis and his partner, the talented sommelier Astrid McCormack, at their new restaurant, Fleet. Accommodating no more than 20 guests, this living-roomsize space is the area’s toughest reservation, especially for anyone who wants to sit at the beautiful poured-concrete slab of a communal table next to the open kitchen. Fleet is so small that there is no room for cold storage, which means the menu is dictated by what’s available locally at the moment—a limitation McCormack and Lewis like. “It’s constant prep and serve,” says McCormack. “Josh is doing what he loves.” One night they might offer a lovely arrangement of small blue sardine-like pilchard fish— preserved, fried and eaten whole—followed by fresh radishes brushed with honey and rolled in sesame. Another night they’ll prepare a finely shredded cabbage-and-kale slaw tossed in a tangy, pungent dressing of garlic and savory nutritional yeast (opposite). Much of the food arrives on earth-tone ceramics that are handmade by local artisan Anna-Karina Elias. 2/16 The Terrace, Brunswick Heads.

At Fleet, Josh Lewis, serves seaweedwrapped radishes on ceramics by Byron’s Anna-Karina Elias, LEFT.

ABOVE,

Cabbage-and-Kale Slaw with Toasted Yeast Dressing Total 25 min; Serves 4 to 6

Noma alum Josh Lewis makes his terrific dressing with toasted nutritional yeast (sold at health food stores) and two types of oil. It’s great on all kinds of slaws and any salad with sturdy leaves. 2/3

cup plus 1 Tbsp. nutritional yeast ﬂakes

1 garlic clove, thinly sliced 1 Tbsp. plus ½ tsp. apple cider vinegar 2 tsp. fresh lemon juice 1/3

cup water

¼ cup grapeseed oil ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil Fine sea salt

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

½ medium green cabbage, cored and very thinly sliced (12 cups) 1 medium bunch of Tuscan kale, stems discarded, leaves very thinly sliced (4½ cups)

1. In a skillet, toast the nutritional yeast over moderate heat, stirring frequently, until fragrant and lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Scrape the yeast into a blender. Add the garlic, cider vinegar, lemon juice and water and blend until combined. With the machine on, add the oils in a slow, steady stream. Season with salt.

“Accommodating no more than 20 guests, Fleet is Byron’s toughest reservation, especially for guests who want to sit at the beautiful pouredconcrete slab of a communal table.”

2. In a bowl, toss the cabbage and kale. Add the yeast dressing and toss. Season the salad with salt and serve. MAKE AHEAD The dressing can be refrigerated for up to 3 days.

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M A R C H 2016

PAPER DAISY AT HALCYON HOUSE

When sisters Siobhan and Elisha Bickle bought an old motel in Cabarita Beach, about a 40-minute drive from Byron Bay, they conceived of it as a family beach house. (The two have nine children between them.) Soon, they decided to turn the place into a bohemian-style boutique hotel centered on a 90-seat restaurant and bar. Called Paper Daisy, it has a lapis-lazuli-and-white color scheme, cheerful clusters of artwork, wicker chairs and mid-century metal chandeliers. Up-and-coming chef Ben Devlin, who was raised in the area, oversees the modern comfort food menu. Despite his progressive and ambitious training at places like Noma, Devlin wants to serve food “that makes people happy.” Not, he emphasizes, huge cuts of expensive beef. “It’s not about being big and showy,” he says. Instead, he makes outstanding prawn sandwiches with housemade bread and a little bit of horseradish and finger lime sourced from a local citrus farmer. He serves his brined roast chicken (opposite) with a salad that offers a superb mix of flavors: pungent (radicchio), tangy (pickled fennel), fruity (an orange juice dressing) and sweet (candied walnuts). When he grills line-caught local fish, he wraps it in paperbark because, he says, “The smell of the grilled bark sets off a strong feeling of nostalgia for anyone from this part of the world.” 21 Cypress Crescent, Cabarita Beach; halcyonhouse.com.au.

Roast Chicken with Pickled Fennel and Candied Walnuts Active 1 hr 30 min; Total 3 hr 30 min plus overnight chilling Serves 4 ROAST CHICKEN

2 Tbsp. plus 2 tsp. ﬁne sea salt One 3-lb. chicken, refrigerated uncovered overnight (see Note) Kosher salt 4 thyme sprigs 4 dill sprigs Wide strips of zest from 1 medium orange 2 tsp. canola oil PICKLED FENNEL

¾ cup rice vinegar 3 Tbsp. sugar 2 tsp. kosher salt 2 whole cloves 1 fennel bulb—halved, cored and thinly sliced lengthwise ORANGE DRESSING

1 cup fresh orange juice ¼ cup Chardonnay vinegar 2 Tbsp. sugar 2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice 1/3

cup canola oil

1 Tbsp. walnut oil Kosher salt and pepper 1 medium navel orange 2 small heads of radicchio, torn into bite-size pieces ¼ cup minced dill, plus more for garnish Candied Walnuts (p. 110), for serving

1. Prepare the chicken In a large bowl, whisk the sea salt into 4½ cups of water until dissolved. Add the chicken and cover with a plate, pressing so the chicken is submerged in the brine. Refrigerate for 1 hour. Transfer the chicken to a rack, pat dry with paper towels and refrigerate for 1 hour more. F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

2. Preheat the oven to 425°. Season the chicken inside and out with kosher salt. Fill the cavity with the thyme, dill and orange zest. Tie the legs with kitchen twine. In a large castiron skillet, heat the oil. Add the chicken, breast side down, and cook over moderately high heat, turning, until the bird is browned on all sides, about 8 minutes total; spoon off the excess fat. Roast in the oven for 45 to 50 minutes, until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the thickest part of the thigh registers 165°. Tent with foil; let rest for 15 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, make the pickled fennel In a small saucepan, combine the rice vinegar, sugar, salt and cloves. Cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until the sugar dissolves, 5 minutes. Transfer the sliced fennel to a heatproof bowl and pour the hot brine over it. Press plastic wrap on the fennel so it’s submerged and marinate at room temperature for 1½ hours. 4. Make the orange dressing In a saucepan, simmer the orange juice over moderately high heat until reduced by half, about 15 minutes. Add the vinegar and sugar and simmer, stirring occasionally,

107

until reduced to 1/3 cup, 7 to 8 minutes. Remove from the heat and whisk in the lemon juice. Transfer to a bowl and whisk in the oils in a slow, steady stream. Season the dressing with salt and pepper. 5. Using a sharp knife, peel the orange, being sure to remove any bitter pith. Cut between the membranes to release the sections into a bowl. Add the radicchio and the 1/4 cup of dill. Season with salt and pepper. Drain the pickled fennel and add to the radicchio with the Candied Walnuts and ¼ cup of the orange dressing; toss well. continued on p. 110

M A R C H 2016

from p. 95

HOW TO NOT HAVE A SUGARY SNACK BAR

HOW

Apricot-Walnut-Date Power Bars Active 15 min; Total 30 min plus chilling Makes 12

NOT A Guide to Healthy Eating Bad habits and powerful cravings can undermine any attempt to eat well. Here’s how to not give in, with delicious recipes from Justin Chapple and Kay Chun of the F&W Test Kitchen.

HOW TO NOT GORGE ON SWEETS:

Plate by Sarah Kersten.

BAKE A SINGLE, PERFECT COOKIE

HOW TO NOT HAVE A BOOZY DRINK

1½ cups extra-thick rolled oats 1½ cups walnuts 1 cup dried California Blenheim apricots, coarsely chopped (5 oz.) 1 cup pitted Medjool dates (8 oz.)

Cucumber-and-Mint “Fauxjito” page 94 Total 5 min; Makes 1

1 cup toasted unsweetened ﬂaked coconut ¼ cup ﬂax seeds

6 thin slices of English cucumber, plus 1 long, thin slice for garnish

½ tsp. kosher salt

6 large mint leaves, plus 1 sprig for garnish

1. Preheat the oven to 375°. Line a 9-by-9inch metal pan with plastic wrap.

2 oz. fresh lime juice ½ oz. agave Ice 4 oz. cold club soda

In a cocktail shaker, muddle the cucumber with the mint leaves. Add the lime juice and agave and fill with ice; shake well. Strain into an ice-filled collins glass. Add the club soda; stir once. Garnish with the cucumber slice and mint sprig. —JC

HOW TO NOT EAT POTATO CHIPS

Nori Chips Active 10 min; Total 30 min plus cooling Makes 32 12 sheets of unseasoned roasted nori (8-inch squares) Extra-virgin olive oil, for brushing Kosher salt

1. Preheat the oven to 300°. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. 2. Arrange 1 nori sheet, smooth side up, on a work surface. Using a pastry brush, lightly brush all over with water. Top with another nori sheet, smooth side up, and press firmly to help it adhere. Repeat this process with 4 more nori sheets; brush the top sheet with olive oil and season with salt. Using scissors, cut the stack in quarters, then cut each square into 4 triangles. Repeat with the remaining 6 sheets of nori. Arrange the triangles on the prepared baking sheet and bake for 18 to 20 minutes, until crisp and shriveled. Transfer to a rack to cool completely; the chips will continue to crisp as they cool. —KC MAKE AHEAD The chips can be stored in an

airtight container for 3 days.

M A R C H 2016

2. Spread the oats and walnuts on 2 separate baking sheets; toast until golden, about 8 minutes for the walnuts and 15 minutes for the oats. Let cool, then finely chop the nuts. 3. In a food processor, puree the apricots and dates to a paste. Scrape into a medium bowl and stir in the oats, walnuts, coconut, flax seeds and salt. Press the mixture into the prepared pan and chill until firm, about 1 hour. Cut into 12 bars and serve. —KC MAKE AHEAD The bars can be refrigerated for 1 week or frozen for 1 month.

2. In a medium bowl, whisk the flour with the baking powder, baking soda and ¾ teaspoon of salt. In a large bowl, using a hand mixer, beat the ¾ cup of coconut oil with the granulated sugar at medium speed until very smooth, about 1 minute. Beat in the eggs 1 at a time, then beat in the yogurt, lemon zest, vanilla and ¼ cup of the lemon juice. Scrape down the side and bottom of the bowl, then beat in the dry ingredients in 3 additions until just incorporated. Using a rubber spatula, fold in the blueberries. 3. Scrape the batter into the prepared pan and spread in an even layer. Bake for about 1 hour and 15 minutes, until a cake tester inserted in the center of the cake comes out clean. Transfer the pan to a rack and let the cake cool completely, about 1 hour. 4. In a small bowl, whisk the confectioners’ sugar with the remaining 2 tablespoons of lemon juice and a pinch of salt. Using the overhanging parchment paper, lift the cake out of the pan. Drizzle the glaze over the top and let stand until set, about 15 minutes. Cut into slices and serve. —JC MAKE AHEAD The cake can be kept in an airtight container for up to 3 days.

HOW TO NOT EAT MEAT

Butternut Squash Steaks au Poivre Total 50 min; Serves 4

HOW TO NOT BAKE WITH BUTTER

Lemon-Blueberry Yogurt Loaf Cake Active 30 min; Total 3 hr 30 min Makes one 9-by-4-inch loaf ¾ cup reﬁned coconut oil, melted and cooled slightly, plus more for greasing 2 cups all-purpose ﬂour 1¼ tsp. baking powder ½ tsp. baking soda

One neck of a 3¼-lb. butternut squash, peeled and cut lengthwise into 4 steaks 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for brushing Kosher salt and coarsely cracked black pepper 1 Tbsp. unsalted butter 1 large shallot, thinly sliced 1 garlic clove, very ﬁnely chopped 1 thyme sprig

Kosher salt 1 cup granulated sugar

¼ cup brandy 1¼ cups low-sodium vegetable broth

3 large eggs 1¼ cups whole-milk Greek yogurt 2 Tbsp. ﬁnely grated lemon zest ¾ tsp. pure vanilla extract ¼ cup plus 2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice 1 cup blueberries ¾ cup confectioners’ sugar

1. Preheat the oven to 350°. Grease a 9-by4-inch metal loaf pan and line with parchment paper, allowing at least 2 inches of overhang on the 2 long sides.

108

½ tsp. sweet paprika 2 Tbsp. Greek yogurt Chopped parsley, for garnish

1. Preheat the oven to 375°. Using a paring knife, score one side of each squash steak in a crosshatch pattern. Brush the steaks with olive oil and season all over with salt and cracked black pepper. continued on p. 110

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

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Bruno Magli Presents “A Taste of Italy”

Luxury brand BRUNO MAGLI kicked off the holiday season with “A Taste of Italy,” a stylish soiree at Chefs Club by FOOD & WINE. Guests including Lucy Liu and Alan Cumming sampled an exquisite menu curated by co-host Scott Conant, while enjoying a preview of Bruno Magli’s upcoming Mens and Womens Fall 2016 Collection. To shop the Spring Collection, visit BrunoMagli.com.

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HOW TO NOT from p. 108 SQUASH STEAKS

from p. 107

continued

2. In a large cast-iron skillet, heat the 2 tablespoons of olive oil until shimmering. Add the squash steaks, scored side down, and cook over moderately high heat until well browned on the bottom, about 5 minutes. Flip and cook until browned on the second side, about 3 minutes. Transfer the skillet to the oven and roast the squash for about 7 minutes, until just tender. Transfer to a platter and tent with foil to keep warm. 3. In the same skillet, melt the butter. Add the shallot, garlic and thyme and cook over moderate heat, stirring, until softened, 2 minutes. Add the brandy and cook until almost evaporated, about 1 minute. Whisk in the broth and paprika and cook, scraping up any browned bits, until slightly reduced, about 3 minutes. Discard the thyme sprig. Whisk in the yogurt and season with salt and pepper. Spoon the sauce over the squash steaks, garnish with chopped parsley and serve. —JC SERVE WITH Sautéed spinach. WINE Earthy Côtes du Rhône: 2013

Domaine Charvin Le Poutet.

1. Preheat the oven to 350°. On a rimmed baking sheet, toss the carrots with the coconut oil and 1 teaspoon of salt. Roast for about 45 minutes, stirring once, until tender and starting to brown.

Australia’s Byron Bay, a short ﬂight from Sydney, is home to spectacular beaches and brilliant chefs who love to surf. Here, the healthy recipes that give everyone the energy to spend hours and hours on the waves.

BY GISELA WILLIAMS PHOTOGRAPHS BY TARA PEARCE

ROAST CHICKEN

continued

6. Transfer the salad to a platter. Carve the chicken and arrange on the salad. Garnish with dill and serve, passing the remaining dressing at the table. NOTE Refrigerating the chicken uncovered

overnight dries out the skin so it’s crisper once it’s roasted. Refrigerate the bird on a rack set on a rimmed baking sheet. MAKE AHEAD The pickled fennel can be refrigerated in its brine for 5 days. WINE Restrained California Chardonnay:

2014 Copain Tous Ensemble.

Candied Walnuts Total 30 min; Makes 1 cup

HOW TO NOT GORGE ON SWEETS

Chocolate Chunk Cookie for One Active 5 min; Total 20 min; Makes 1 1 Tbsp. unsalted butter 1 Tbsp. packed light brown sugar 1 tsp. granulated sugar 1/8

tsp. pure vanilla extract Maldon salt

2 Tbsp. all-purpose ﬂour 1½ Tbsp. dark chocolate chunks or chips

Preheat a toaster oven to 350°. In a small microwave-safe bowl, heat the butter until just softened, about 10 seconds. Using a fork, blend in both sugars, the vanilla and a pinch of salt. Blend in the flour, then stir in the chocolate chunks. Scoop the batter onto a parchment paper–lined toaster tray and sprinkle with salt. Bake for 13 to 15 minutes, until lightly browned. Let cool slightly before serving. —JC

Kosher salt

Charred Mangoes with Ricotta, Honey and Caramelized Lime page 103 Total 30 min; Serves 4 2 large, ripe mangoes, peeled and cut into 2 halves each (2 lbs. total) 1 tsp. extra-virgin olive oil ¼ cup honey

2 medium limes, halved crosswise

1. Preheat the oven to 350°. In a small pie plate, toast the walnuts until lightly browned, about 10 minutes. Let cool; leave the oven on. 2. In a small bowl, toss the walnuts with 1 tablespoon of water. Add the sugar and 2 generous pinches of salt and toss to coat. Spread the nuts on a parchment paper– lined baking sheet. Bake, stirring once, until brown and crisp, 12 to 14 minutes. Let cool.

Carrot Hummus Active 15 min; Total 1 hr Makes 1¾ cups 2½ lbs. purple or orange carrots, peeled and halved lengthwise 1 Tbsp. virgin coconut oil (see Note) Fine sea salt cup plus 2 Tbsp. tahini

1 garlic clove, thinly sliced 2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil 1/3

MAKE AHEAD The carrot hummus can be refrigerated for 3 days.

½ vanilla bean, split lengthwise, seeds scraped

¼ cup sugar

1/4

NOTE Coconut oil is available at many supermarkets, at health food stores and at Whole Foods.

1 large cinnamon stick

1 cup walnuts

page 81

2. In a food processor, combine the warm roasted carrots with the tahini, garlic, lemon juice, olive oil and water. Process until smooth. Season with salt. Garnish with paprika and chopped parsley. Serve with blue corn chips. —The Roadhouse

cup water Sweet paprika and chopped parsley, for garnish

1 Tbsp. sugar 1 cup fresh ricotta cheese

1. Heat a grill pan over moderately high heat until hot. In a medium bowl, toss the mango halves with the olive oil. Grill the mangoes over moderately high heat until nicely charred on all sides, about 12 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board and cut each half into 6 wedges. 2. Meanwhile, in a small saucepan, combine the honey, cinnamon stick, vanilla bean and seeds and 1/4 cup of water. Cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until the syrup coats the back of a spoon, about 7 minutes. Discard the vanilla bean and cinnamon stick. 3. Sprinkle the lime halves with the sugar. Grill, cut side down, until the sugar caramelizes, about 4 minutes. 4. Arrange the charred mangoes on plates. Dollop the ricotta alongside and drizzle with the honey syrup. Serve with the caramelized lime halves. —Three Blue Ducks MAKE AHEAD The honey syrup can be refrigerated for 3 days. Rewarm gently before serving.

Toasted blue corn chips, for serving

M A R C H 2016

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F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

Short Ribs with Serrano Chimichurri and Jicama-Radish Salad page 96 Active 1 hr 50 min Total 4 hr 25 min plus marinating Serves 4 to 6

SALAD

1 Tbsp. yuzu juice (see Note) or fresh lemon juice 2 Tbsp. plus ½ tsp. rice vinegar One ½-inch piece of fresh ginger, peeled and ﬁnely grated 2 Tbsp. grapeseed oil

SHORT RIBS

1 Tbsp. Chinese ﬁve-spice powder 1½ tsp. kosher salt 3½ lbs. English-cut short ribs (3-inch pieces) 1 Tbsp. canola oil 3 garlic cloves, lightly crushed One 1½-inch piece of fresh ginger, peeled and thinly sliced 1 serrano chile, halved and seeded 4½ cups beef stock or low-sodium broth 2 cups Shaoxing wine (see Note) or dry sherry 2 Tbsp. soy sauce 2 Tbsp. honey 1 Tbsp. Asian ﬁsh sauce

2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil 2 tsp. soy sauce Kosher salt and pepper 9 oz. radishes, trimmed and cut into ¼-inch wedges 1 medium cucumber—peeled, halved and cut into ¼-inch wedges ½ medium jicama, peeled and cut into ¼-inch wedges 1 medium shallot minced (¼ cup) 1 cup each chopped cilantro and parsley Serrano Chimichurri and Pickled Chiles (p. 112), for serving

1. Make the short ribs In a bowl, combine the five-spice powder and salt. Season the short ribs generously with the seasoned salt. Set the ribs in a 9-by-13-inch baking dish, cover and refrigerate for 4 hours.

2. Preheat the oven to 375°. In a large enameled cast-iron casserole, heat the oil. Working in batches, brown the short ribs on all sides over moderate heat, 8 to 10 minutes. Return the browned short ribs to the baking dish. Tilt the casserole and spoon most of the fat off from the pan. 3. Add the garlic, ginger and serrano to the casserole. Cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until the garlic is lightly browned and fragrant, 3 minutes. Add the beef stock, Shaoxing, soy sauce, honey and fish sauce and bring to a boil, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the casserole. Return the short ribs and any accumulated juices to the casserole. Cover and braise in the oven until the ribs are tender, 2¼ to 2½ hours. 4. Make the salad In a small bowl, whisk the yuzu juice with the rice vinegar and ginger. Whisk in the oils in a slow, steady stream. Whisk in the soy sauce and season with salt and pepper. In a large bowl, toss the radishes, cucumber, jicama, shallot, cilantro and parsley. Just before serving, toss with the dressing. continued on p. 112

a dv e r t i s e m e n t

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CHEFS CLUB BY FOOD & WINE, located in the famed Puck Building, is an innovative restaurant concept featuring seasonal menus created by FOOD & WINE Best New Chefs. For dinner reservations, please call 212.941.1100 or visit chefsclub.com.

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HEALTHIEST PLACE ON EARTH from p. 111 SHORT RIBS

continued

5. Transfer the ribs to a deep platter. Strain the braising liquid into a medium saucepan and skim off the fat. Add 1/2 cup of water and cook the sauce over moderately high heat until reduced by half, about 15 minutes. Pour over the ribs. Serve with the radish salad, Serrano Chimichurri and Pickled Chiles. —Three Blue Ducks

MINDFUL COOKING from p. 44

Pickled Chiles

Cathal’s Favorite Salad

Active 10 min; Total 2 hr Makes 1 cup

Active 25 min; Total 1 hr; Serves 4

7 Tbsp. apple cider vinegar 2 tsp. light brown sugar 1 tsp. kosher salt 7 serrano chiles, thinly sliced and seeded

cialty food stores. Shaoxing wine is an aged Chinese rice wine often used in cooking. It’s available at Asian markets.

In a medium bowl, whisk the vinegar, brown sugar and salt until the sugar and salt have dissolved. Stir in the sliced chiles. Cover with plastic wrap and let stand at room temperature for 2 hours. —Three Blue Ducks

MAKE AHEAD The braised short ribs can be

MAKE AHEAD The pickled chiles can be

refrigerated for up to 4 days. Reheat gently before serving.

refrigerated in the vinegar mixture for up to 2 weeks.

WINE Fruit-forward Pinot Noir: 2013 Merry

Edwards Sonoma Coast.

Serrano Chimichurri Total 25 min; Makes 1¹⁄³ cups ½ cup minced cilantro 1/2

cup minced parsley

¼ cup minced red onion 2 garlic cloves, peeled and minced 1/4

cup plus 1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

2 tsp. ﬁnely grated lemon zest plus 1/3 cup fresh lemon juice 2 serrano chiles—halved, seeded and minced 1 tsp. Dijon mustard Kosher salt and pepper

In a medium bowl, combine the cilantro, parsley, red onion and garlic. In another bowl, whisk the olive oil with the lemon zest and juice, the minced serranos and the mustard. Stir into the herb mixture and season with salt and pepper. —Three Blue Ducks MAKE AHEAD The chimichurri can be refrigerated for 2 days.

¼ cup raw pumpkin seeds (pepitas) ¼ cup sherry vinegar 2 Tbsp. Dijon mustard ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil

SERVE WITH Steamed jasmine rice. NOTE Tart yuzu juice is available at spe-

8 small beets (1 lb.) 4 large eggs

Roasted Sunchokes and Swiss Chard with Chili Ricotta Active 20 min; Total 45 min Serves 4 to 6 1 cup balsamic vinegar 1½ Tbsp. grapeseed oil 1 lb. sunchokes, scrubbed and halved lengthwise Kosher salt and pepper 2 medium bunches of Swiss chard, stems discarded 1 cup fresh ricotta cheese Chili powder, for garnish

1. In a small saucepan, simmer the balsamic vinegar over moderately high heat until reduced to ½ cup, about 10 minutes. Remove the saucepan from the heat. 2. Preheat the oven to 425°. In a large ovenproof skillet, heat the grapeseed oil. Add the sunchokes, cut side down, and season with a generous pinch each of salt and pepper. Cook over moderately high heat until golden, 4 to 5 minutes. Turn the sunchokes, transfer to the oven and roast until tender, 12 to 15 minutes. 3. Meanwhile, in a medium saucepan of salted boiling water, blanch the Swiss chard until just tender, 1 to 2 minutes. Using tongs, transfer the chard to a colander. Let cool slightly, then squeeze dry.

Kosher salt and pepper 1 Hass avocado, chopped ½ cup minced red onion 12 cups mixed baby lettuces (10 oz.) 4 scallions, thinly sliced 1. Preheat the oven to 450°. Wrap the beets in foil and roast for about 45 minutes, until tender. Let cool slightly, then slip off the skins. Quarter the beets. 2. In a small saucepan, cover the eggs with 1 inch of water and bring to a boil. Let stand off the heat, covered, for 10 minutes. Drain and transfer the eggs to a bowl of ice water to cool. Peel and quarter the eggs. 3. In a skillet, toast the pumpkin seeds over low heat, stirring, until they are golden, about 5 minutes. 4. In a bowl, whisk the sherry vinegar with the mustard. Whisking constantly, drizzle in the olive oil until incorporated. Season the vinaigrette with salt and pepper. 5. In a bowl, combine the beets, avocado and onion. Add ¼ cup of the vinaigrette, season with salt and pepper and toss gently. Transfer the salad to plates. Add the eggs and drizzle with 2 tablespoons of the vinaigrette. Wipe out the bowl. Add the lettuce, scallions and the remaining vinaigrette, season with salt and pepper and toss. Mound the greens on the vegetables, garnish with the pumpkin seeds and serve. MAKE AHEAD The cooked beets and hardboiled eggs can be refrigerated for 2 days. WINE Bright, pear-inﬂected Italian white: 2013 Zuani Collio Bianco.

4. Arrange the roasted sunchokes and blanched Swiss chard on a platter. Dollop the ricotta over the vegetables and drizzle with half of the reduced balsamic. Sprinkle with chili powder and season with salt and pepper. Serve with the remaining balsamic. —Fleet

M A R C H 2016

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F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

VEGAN FOR EVERYBODY from p. 36

It’s a Date! Shake Total 5 min; Serves 2

Chloe Coscarelli, of New York City’s By Chloe, uses Medjool dates to naturally sweeten this creamy, dairy-free milkshake.

MOST WANTED from p. 114

Basil Pesto Total 5 min; Makes ¾ cup

Nutritional yeast mimics the savory notes of an aged cheese in this vegan pesto. 2 cups basil leaves

1 pint dairy-free vanilla ice cream ½ cup unsweetened almond milk 8 Medjool dates, pitted and coarsely chopped 1 cup ice Ground cinnamon and Cinnamon Crumb Topping (recipe follows), for serving

In a blender, combine the ice cream with the almond milk and half of the dates. Blend until smooth, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the ice and the remaining dates and blend until smooth, about 1 minute. Pour the shake into 2 glasses, top with cinnamon and the Cinnamon Crumb Topping and serve.

½ cup parsley leaves ¼ cup nutritional yeast ¼ cup pine nuts, toasted 4 garlic cloves

½ cup extra-virgin olive oil Kosher salt and black pepper

Preheat the oven to 325° and line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. In a medium bowl, whisk the flour with the cinnamon, salt and both sugars. Add the melted margarine and mix until pea-size clumps form. Spread the crumb topping on the prepared baking sheet and bake until brown and crisp, 20 minutes. Let cool. —CC

Salt-and-Vinegar French Fries Active 10 min; Total 45 min Serves 4 2 large baking potatoes, peeled and cut into ¼-inch-thick sticks 3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil Kosher salt Malt vinegar, for serving

Preheat the oven to 425°. In a medium bowl, toss the potatoes with the olive oil and a generous pinch of salt. Spread the potatoes on a rimmed baking sheet in a single layer. Bake until golden brown and tender, 20 to 25 minutes, stirring halfway through. Sprinkle with salt and malt vinegar and serve immediately, passing more vinegar at the table. —CC

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

cup plus 2½ Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

Kosher salt and black pepper 1 tsp. coriander seeds 2 cups lightly packed cilantro leaves

1 garlic clove, minced 1 tsp. minced serrano chile 1 1/2 1/4

tsp. ﬁnely grated lime zest cup ice water, plus 2 large ice cubes

2 cups mixed sprouts, such as alfalfa, mung bean and lentil 1/2

cup pomegranate seeds

1 cup lebneh Maldon salt, for sprinkling

1 tsp. ground cinnamon

¼ cup vegan margarine, melted

1/4

1 cup lightly packed parsley leaves

In a food processor, pulse the basil, parsley, nutritional yeast, pine nuts, garlic and crushed red pepper until a coarse paste forms. With the machine running, slowly stream in the olive oil; season the pesto with salt and black pepper. —Tal Ronnen

½ cup plus 2 Tbsp. all-purpose ﬂour

2½ Tbsp. light brown sugar

2 medium Delicata squash (1 1/4 lbs. each)—halved lengthwise, seeds removed and reserved, and squash cut into 2½-inch triangles

¼ tsp. crushed red pepper

Active 5 min; Total 25 min plus cooling Makes 1 cup

2½ Tbsp. granulated sugar

page 114 Active 20 min; Total 50 min; Serves 4

2 tsp. Aleppo pepper

Cinnamon Crumb Topping

Pinch of sea salt

Roasted Squash and Mixed Sprouts Bowl

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vice, please use our website: foodandwine.com/customerservice. You can also call 800-333-6569 (813-979-6625 for international subscribers) or write to Food & Wine at P.O. Box 62160, Tampa, FL 33662. Food & Wine (ISSN-0741-9015). March 2016, Vol. 39, No. 3. Published monthly by Time Inc. Affluent Media Group, 225 Liberty St., New York, NY 10281. FOOD & WINE is a trademark of Time Inc. Affluent Media Group, registered in the U.S. and other countries. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and additional mailing offices. Publications Mail Commercial Sales Agreement No. 40036840 (GST# 129480364RT). U.S. and Canada Subscribers: Subscriptions: 12 issues, $37; Canada, $49. If the postal authorities alert us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within two years. Your bank may provide updates to the card information we have on file. You may opt out of this service at any time. Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Food & Wine, PO Box 4226, Toronto, ON M5W 5N7. Postmaster: Send change of address to Food & Wine, P.O. Box 62665, Tampa, FL 33662-6658. Food & Wine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, drawings, photographs or other works. All rights in letters sent to Food & Wine will be treated as unconditionally assigned for publication and copyright purposes and as subject to unrestricted right to edit and to comment editorially. Contents Copyright ©2016 Time Inc. Affluent Media Group. All rights reserved. Nothing may be reprinted in whole or in part without written permission from the publisher. Member of the Alliance for Audited Media. 113

1. Preheat the oven to 400°. On a large rimmed baking sheet, toss the squash with 1/4 cup of the olive oil and the Aleppo pepper. Season generously with salt and black pepper and roast for about 30 minutes, until browned in spots and just tender. 2. Meanwhile, in a pie plate, toss the reserved squash seeds with 1/2 tablespoon of the olive oil and season with salt and black pepper. Spread in an even layer and bake for about 15 minutes, stirring every 5 minutes, until lightly browned and crisp. Let cool. 3. In a small skillet, toast the coriander seeds over moderate heat until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a mortar and grind to a powder. Transfer the ground coriander to a blender; add the cilantro, parsley, garlic, chile, 1/2 teaspoon of the lime zest and the ice water and ice cubes. Puree until nearly smooth. Season the dressing with salt. 4. In a medium bowl, toss the sprouts and pomegranate seeds with the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil and 1 teaspoon of lime zest. Season with salt. Spread the lebneh in 4 shallow bowls. Mound the salad in the bowls and top with the roasted squash. Sprinkle with the toasted squash seeds and a little Maldon salt and serve, passing the coriander dressing at the table. MAKE AHEAD The dressing and roasted

squash can be refrigerated separately overnight. Serve at room temperature. WINE Rhône-style white: 2013 Qupé

Marsanne from California’s Central Coast. M A R C H 2016

RECIPE REQUEST

MOST WANTED » DID YOU KNOW?

Jessica Koslow’s Squash and Sprouts Bowl M A R C H 2016

JESSICA KOSLOW, CHEF-OWNER of L.A.’s breakfast and lunch spot Sqirl and takeout counter Sqirl Away, is a snacker. “My dinner might be popcorn,” she confesses. “Or ice cream.” But throughout the day, she grazes on more nourishing dishes: thick-cut toast with her housemade jam, spoonfuls of vegan porridge, bites of her sprouts bowl with lebneh, squash and pomegranate (p. 113). “I cook how I want to eat,” Koslow says. “Comforting yet bright, light and delicious.” Her forthcoming book, Everything I Want to Eat, will simplify her dishes for the home cook, with tips like spreading the lebneh on the bottom of the bowl to make a tangy base for the salad. And she has a prediction: “I’m putting this out there—2016 is the year of the sprouts.” 720 Virgil Ave.; sqirlla.com. ANNIE P. QUIGLEY

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F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

photograph: david malosh; food stylist: barrett washburne

Koslow has been a figure skater, a producer on American Idol and a graveyard-shift bread baker.

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