SHAAN – E - AWADH
Evening Wear Portfolio Shubham Kumar UGFD level 2
TABLE OF CONTENT • • • • • • • • • • • • • •
Chikankari History of Chikankari Chikankari Motifs Stitches of Chikankari Tools and Raw Material Karigars of Chikankari Geographic Location Key role players of the Cluster Client Board Mood board Tech Pack Silhouette development Range Sheet Bibliography
Chikankari is an art, which result in the transformation of the plainest cotton and organdie into flowing yards of magic. Bengali work was mainly for the European market. In Lucknow embroiderers worked under the trade of local courts. When these declined in the mid nineteenth century chikan changed from a professional activity of men to a cottage industry for women. With the passage of time, Indian embroidery has brought out professionalism in the art with preserving its domestic affiliation, professional work normally being done by men and made either for someone who supports local trade or export. Domestic work is much localised, families generally remaining in one place, with design handed dow through generation practise such an art both for preserving their generational legacy and earning their livelihood.
Chikankari work (Chain stich) on fabric according to the motifs.
History
Noor jahan
• The name chikan is said to be derived from the Persian word "Chikaan" or “Chikeen”meaning drapery or embroidered cloth. • There are different versions as to the origin of Chikankari embroidery work in India. It is said that a traveler, who was passing through a village in Lucknow, stopped and requested a poor peasant for water. Delighted at the hospitality of the peasant, the traveler taught him the art of Chikankari, which would ensure that he would never remain hungry in life. Lucknow city is the most renowned place for Chikankari work. • Another explanation credits Noor jahan, the queen of Emperor Jahangir, with the introduction of the Chikankari embroidery work in India. It is believed that the wife of the Mughal emperor Jahangir, Noor Jahan patronized this art. It thrived during the early days in Bengal (around Calcutta) and even in southern India in Madras (Chennai). The Nawabs of Lucknow were lovers of this art and it was their keen interest and initiative that made this craft flourish in and around Lucknow in the Northern Indian state of Uttar Pradesh. Now Chikankari or chikan embroidery issynonymous with Lucknow. • There are, however, other opinions on the origin of chikan embroidery. According to few historians, there is evidence of embroidered muslin apparel depicted in the famous paintings in the Bagh Caves and Ajanta Caves dating back to the 9th century A.D.
In this image the embroidery is done over the printed design pattern using needle and thread. The artisan creates traditional patterns using different techniques
Motifs
Chikankari has been the delicate and traditional embroiderypracticed in Lucknow and its environs. Chikan is a unique craft involving delicate and artistic hand embroidery on a variety of textile fabrics like cotton, muslin, silk, chiffon, organdy, organza and doriya. There are 36 types of stitches used in chikan work ever since its origin. The source of the most motifs in Chikankari is Mughal. Though it originated as the court craft, today it is a practiced tradition and an important commercial activity. Various designers have tried giving in new dimension to the chikan work by incorporating new techniques, styles and designs.
Chain stich and cross stich is done using silk thread over the fabric and cut work is also their in the center of the motif to make it more appealing.
Stitches of Chikankari: 1.Tepchi is a running stitch worked on the right side of the fabric. It is occasionally done within parallel rows to fill petals and leaves in a motif, called ghaspatti. Sometimes taipchi is used to make the bel buti all over the fabric. This is the simplest chikan stitch and often serves as a basis for further embellishment. It resembles jamdani and is considered the cheapest and the quickest stitch. 2. Bakhiya is the most common stitch and is often referred to as shadow work. It is of two types: (a) Ulta Bakhia: The floats lie on the reverse of the fabric underneath the motif. The transparent muslin becomes opaque and provides a beautiful effect of light and shade. (b) Sidhi Bakhia: Satin stitch with criss-crossing of individual threads. The floats of thread lie on the surface of the fabric. This is used to fill the forms and there is no light or shade effect. 3. Hool is a fine detached eyelet stitch. Herein, a hole is punched in the fabric and the threads are teased apart. It is then held by small straight stitches all round and worked with one thread on the right side of the fabric. It can be worked with six threads and often forms the center of a flower. 4. Zanzeera is a small chain stitch worked with one thread on the right side of the fabric. Being extremely fine, it is used to finally outline the leaf or petal shapes after one or more outlines have already been worked. 5. Rahet is a stem stitch worked with six threads on the wrong side of the fabric. It forms a solid line of back stitch on the right side of the fabric and is rarely used in its simple form but is common in the double form of dohra bakhiya as an outlining stitch. 6. Banarsi stitch has no European equivalent and is a twisted stitch worked with six threads on the right side of the fabric. Working from the right across about five threads a small stitch is taken over about two threads vertically. The needle is reinserted halfway along and below the horizontal stitch formed and is taken out about two threads vertically on the right above the previous stitch.
7. Khatau is similar to Bakhia, but finer and is a form of applique. In Khatau, the design is prepared on calico material. That is placed over the surface of the final fabric and then paisley and floral patterns are stitched on to it. 8. Phanda and Murri are the forms of stitches used to embroider the centre of the flowers in ordinary chikan work motifs. They are typically French knots, with murri being rice-shaped and phanda millet-shaped. 9. Jali stitch is the one where the thread is never drawn through the fabric, ensuring that the back portion of the garment looks as impeccable as the front. The warp and weft threads are carefully drawn apart and minute buttonhole stitches are inserted into the cloth. 10. Turpai and Darzdari are also significant stitches in chikan work. Turpai should have an effect of a thin thread. Darzdari have several varieties, the popular ones are Kohidarz, Kamal darz, Shankarpara darz, Muchii andSingbhada darz. 11. The various other types of legendary Chikankari stitches are: Pechani, Bijli, Ghaspatti, Makra, Kauri, Hathkadi, Banjkali, Sazi, Karan,
Kapkapi, Madrazi, Bulbul-chasm, Taj Mahal, Janjeera, Kangan, Dhania- patti, Rozan, Meharki, Chanapatti, Baalda, Jora, Keel kangan, bulbul, sidhaul, ghas ki patti etc. Drifting apart from the original pristine setting, the tone-on-tone embroidery is in vogue these days. The significant use
of beads, sequin and mokaish (white flat silver strip embroidery) have gained wide acceptance. Fabric In addition to the white base fabric, colored fabrics and threads are also used. Silk and cotton threads are employed for embroidery work on sarees, dupattas, table linen and kurtas. Cotton being the most preferred choice, Chikankari is also done on mulls, muslins, voiles, organzas and polyester. Some more include: chiffon, viscose, georgette, polyester georgette, cotton crepe and net. The designs change every other month, as per the market trends, with colors that perfectly match with the season.
Tools and Raw Materials: Highly elaborated work is done using simple tools to embellish beautiful motifs/ designs on plain cloth. Traditionally, the Chikan work has been done only on white cotton cloth. Later, it has been done using various types of clothes to meet the market trend.
Raw materials: Indigo color used for printing.
• • • • • •
Types of fabrics like cotton, silk, chiffon, crepe, georgette, wool, orange chiffon are used to do the embroidery work. Cotton thread is traditionally used to create the design patterns over the cloth. Golden zari, silver zari, wool are the types of threads also used to do the Chikankari embroidery. Indigo color used in printing process. River water used to wash the clothes to clear the printing marks. Starch is used to obtain the stiffness for cotton clothes.
Gold and silver threads are also used to create the motif designs on the cloth. Cotton thread used to stitch.
Plane cotton cloth used as basic raw material.
Colored cotton threads.
List of tools: • • • • •
Sui- needle is the important tool which plays a major role in Chikankari work.
A circular shaped frame is used to hold the cloth as it obtains tautness. These frames are made with cloth as well as wood as per the need. Wooden blocks are used to print the design on plain cloth. A rectangular wooden table used as support during printing process. Containers are used while washing the cloth after completion of stitching work.
Cloth frame, scissors and needle. Wooden Block used to print
Process of Chikankari Block Printing: Initially, the design to be worked is printed on the plain fabric. The wooden block is dipped in the color solution which is made by mixing glue and indigo. Then it is printed on the fabric. There will be different blocks for butis, floral patterns and borders. In Lucknow, the printing process is done by separate group of artisans who mainly concentrate in printing. The printed fabric is now ready for the embroidery work. Embroidery work: The embroidery is done over the printed design pattern using needle and thread. The artisan creates traditional patterns using different techniques. Different types of stitches can be made in one product. Washing: Washing is the final stage of production process. The fabric after embroidery work is first soaked in water and then washed to remove the block printed blue color. Then it is starched and ironed to obtain stiffness. The final product is now ready for the market.
Karigars of Chikankari
Young and Old The work skill is transferred through generations. Young and old work together and knowledge is passed on!
Working together It takes months to ready one saari so together women pitch in and complete the work.
Work on adda Men usually work on addas.zardozi work is being combined with chikan on this designer pure chiffon red saari with green border.
Geographic location
Imambara is a shrine built by Shia Muslims for the purpose of Azadari. The Bara Imambara is among the grandest buildings of Lucknow.
Lucknow's location is responsible for the diverse weather patterns and climatic changes. It does not have a uniform weather throughout the year and experiences extreme summers and extreme winters. The total area covered by Lucknow is around 3204 square kilometers. The location of Lucknow is what makes it easily reachable by air, rail and road. Lucknow is famous for its beautiful gardens, ancient architectural ruins, prestigious educational institutions and rich cultural and historical legacy. It is located in center of the state of Uttar Pradesh. The city is flanked by Sitapur district in the north and Rae Bareli on the south. The Unnao district lies on the west and in the east is located Barabanki district. The city has River Gomti flowing right through it, dividing it into parts. The city of Lucknow is famous for its educational institutions and has some of the most prestigious institutions located here. Popular ones are Lucknow University, Indian Institute of Management (IIM), La Martiniere College, Rani Laxmi Bai Memorial School, Loreto Convent, Delhi Public School, The Cathedral, etc. The place is also famous for its research institutes like National Botanical Research Institute (NBRI), Central Drug Research Institute (CDRI), Industrial Toxicology Research Centre (ITRC), Indian Institute of Sugarcane Research (IISR), etc.
Culture of Lucknow Lucknow People
The people of Lucknow are among the warmest and the most courteous people in India. They are known to be very soft spoken and treat guests like Gods. The place has a rich cultural heritage and is known to be the city of Nawabs.
Lucknow Cuisine
The cuisine of Lucknow has its own distinct individuality and identity. The traditional food of Lucknow was highly patronized by the Mughals thus giving it a very royal touch. The royal chefs and cooks were trained to give that distinct royal touch and regal look to anything they cooked.
Lucknow Music and Dance
Music and dance in Lucknow has been much influenced by the Mughal rule India. The kings were known to lead a life of pleasure and their main source of entertainment was to indulge in music and dance.
Key role players of the Cluster There are many civil society organizations working for welfare of artisians in the cluster. And the main aim is to uplift the economic and social conditions of the handicraft artisians.
Civil Society Organizations Transporters and Cargo Service Providers District Industries Centre (DCI), Lucknow UP Trade Promotion Authorities, Kanpur Export Promotion Bureau, U.P., Lucknow Handicraft Marketing and Service Extension Centre, Barabaki Small Industries Development Bank of India (SIDBI) Export Promotion Council for Handicraft (EPCH), New Delhi Apparel Export Promotion Council (AEPC) Handloom and Handicraft Export Promotion Corporation, New Delhi Indian Trade Promotion Organization (ITPO), New Delhi Financial Institution
Client board Age Group – 25 – 30 year Profession – Student Hobbies – Reading, Sketching and Listening Music Prominent traits – Confident, Funloving, Social Responsible and friendly With time.
My Client For This Collection Is ISHMITA NAGI. She is a college going student . She is a fun loving person and she has a casual lifestyle. She wears comfortable and chic clothes. She loves to wear prints and has an eye for fashion.
Color Board
Story Board
Kathak
Baillie Gate
The Baillie Guard Gate was the main entrance to the Residency, which was the focus of the fiercest fighting. Although eventually destroyed, its ruins remained a testament to the tenacity of the British, with a deep resonance in the annals of the British Empire in India. Land of old loves, Ancient hatred, trashed dreams and fleeting glory. Their are tales of tragedy and tales of heroism.
The Lucknow Gharana of Kathak dance came into existence mainly in the court of Nawab Wajid Ali Shah the ruler of Awadh in the early 19th century. It was in this period that the Lucknow Gharana of Kathak attained maturity, through the efforts of Thakur Prasad Maharaj, the court dancer and guru of Nawab Wajid Ali Shah and subsequently by his sons Bindadin Maharaj and Kalka Prasad Maharaj. Kalka Prasad's sons Achchan Maharaj, Lachu Maharaj and Shambhu Maharaj also contributed to the further development of this gharana style.
SW 6261
PMS 727
PMS 4695
Bhagalpuri Silk Glass Nylon Butterfly Net Shantoon
Used the burnt effect on the fabric to express the old loves, Ancient hatred, trashed dreams
Tech Pack SEASON : SPRING/SUMMER SIZES : S DESCRIPTION : Evening wear with Chikankari work and burning technique.
STYLE : SP-R2 FABRIC : : Bhagalpuri silk, Glass Nylon, Butterfly Net RANGE : WOMEN
CONSTRUCTION SHEET SEASON : SPRING/SUMMER
STYLE : SP-R2 FABRIC : : Bhagalpuri silk, Glass Nylon, Butterfly Net
SIZES : S DESCRIPTION : Evening wear with Chikankari work and burning technique.
RANGE : WOMEN
Chikankari work Zipper
Pasted through Double sided fusing
FRONT
Glass Nylon
BACK
Burning Technique
MEASUREMENT CHART SEASON : SPRING/SUMMER SIZES : S DESCRIPTION : Evening wear with Chikankari work and burning technique.
STYLE : SP-R2 FABRIC : : Bhagalpuri silk, Glass Nylon, Butterfly Net RANGE : WOMEN
POINTS OF MEASUREMENT
14
FABRIC SHEET SEASON : SPRING/SUMMER
STYLE : SP-R2 FABRIC : : Bhagalpuri silk, Glass Nylon, Butterfly Net
SIZES : S DESCRIPTION : Evening wear with Chikankari work and burning technique.
Fabric : Bhagalpuri silk Price : Rs 400/m
Fabric: Butterfly net Price : 100/m
RANGE : WOMEN
Fabric : Glass Nylon Price : Rs 70/m
TRIM SHEET SEASON : SPRING/SUMMER
STYLE : SP-R2 FABRIC : : Bhagalpuri silk, Glass Nylon, Butterfly Net
SIZES : M DESCRIPTION : Evening wear with Chikankari work and burning technique.
RANGE : WOMEN
Zipper Price: Rs 60 Length: 28cm Double sided fusing Quantity- 2mt Price – Rs 120
Supplier : Coats Price : Rs 10/thread Quantity : 4 Length : 120 mts Color : white
COST SHEET Consumption
Unit Price
Amount
Bhagalpuri Silk
5 meter
Rs 400 pm
Rs 2000
Glass Nylon
2 meter
Rs 70
Rs 140
Butterfly Net
4 meter
Rs 100
Rs 400
Total
Rs 2540
Item
Quantity
Unit price
Amount
Sewing Thread
4 Roll
Rs 20
Rs 80
Zipper
1
Rs 40
Rs 40
Total
Rs 120
Stitching and construction cost Embroidery Miscellaneous Cost Price Mark Up
Rs 1000 RS 1500 Rs 280 Rs 5440 Rs 200%
Maximum Retail Price
Rs 16320
Silhouette Development
Range Sheet
Photoshoot
Bibliography
http://www.culturalindia.net/india-craft/chikankari.html http://style2designer.com/embroideery/chikankari-embroidery/ http://www.craftandartisans.com/chikan-embroidery-oflucknow-uttar-pradesh.html http://textontextile.wordpress.com/tag/chikankari-stitches http://lucknowcity.com/chikankari.php http://www.sandhyamanne.com/blogs/chikankari