Issue 06 | December 2011
T R A V E L
M A G
e x p l o r i n g
DELHI
Welcome to Delhi… Or is it Dihli, Daidala, Dilli or Dhila? What is in a name? A lot if it is a matter of identity and history. Leading to the toponymy of the city being full of mythological and historical theories. Earlier travellers to India including the two Greek travellers Nearchus and Megasthenese, Fah Hian and the great Chinese traveler Hiuen Tsiang, who visited India in 5th century A.D., never mentioned a city which may have been Delhi, but they did refer to other important ones in north India. Greek geographer Ptolemy mentions Dilli, which he called Daidala, which may have been established around 57 B.C. in the area between the present day Qutab Minar complex and Tughlaqabad Fort by King Delu of Kanauj. But there is as yet no archaeological or historical evidence of the existence of either this city or the king. The pillar at the Qutab is (mythically) believed to pre-date the foundation of Delhi, and may have been brought from Bihar by the city’s founding king Anang Pal. According to legend, a Hindu priest advised the king to plant it in the ground so that it could rest on the head of the snake king; and as long as that holds steady, the king’s rule will do so likewise. After putting the pillar in, the king was not sure if it had been done correctly and ordered the pillar to be uprooted. Finding its base covered with blood from the snake king’s head, Anang Pal had it put back hurriedly lest he invoke any curses. But it could never be stable like before. In Hindi, the pillar was said to be dihli meaning loose. This name of the city may thus have been derived from the word dihli. Some historians believe Delhi was occupied around A.D. 300 before being abandoned for reasons unknown; what is for sure is that the Tomar king Anang Pal decided to move here and make it his capital in 1052. The great Arab traveller and adventurer from Tangier, referred to the city as Dihli in the 14th century. Some other writings have spelt it Delle. Whatever its name, and whatever its failings, there is no doubt Delhi is a delightful place. Go explore. The journey will never finish.
contents
Delhi Special: 08 Quwwat-ul-Islam Mosque: When history changed forever 09 Qutab Minar: Still looking for answers 11 The Iron Pillar: Go figure its dimensions 12 Razia Sultan: Will the queen rise from her grave 13 Sultan Garhi: Surreal show in the basement tomb 14 HAUZ KHAS: Back to School 16 Humayan’s Tomb: For husband, with love 19 A Walk Down MEHRAULI VILLAGE 22 JAISALMER, rajasthan The city in the fort, and beyond 29 THAILAND, The Festival of Lanterns, Lights and Floats in Chiang Mai
41 Hotel Reviews > River Tern Lodge - Bhadra Wildlife Sanctuary, Karnataka > Shaam-e-Sarhad Village Resort, - Hodka, Gujarat 46 Stuff > Kunzum Travel Pix > Sketch Feature - Jim Corbett National Park > Book Review: Into Thin Air > The Handwritten Travelogue
team kunzum
CTO (Chief Travelling Officer): Ajay Jain - He also hogs the driver’s seat
CEO (Chief Editorial Officer): Anubhuti Rana - Prefers being on the passenger seat on the highways
CSO (Chief Social Officer): Shruti Sharma
- Found on Facebook, Twitter, Kunzum Travel Café or trekking in the wild
CDO (Chief Design Officer): Faizan Patel
- Also Chief Desk Officer, that’s where he is stuck when others travel
Samridhi Minocha - A big welcome to our new team member
*Unless mentioned, all articles and photographs in this issue are by Ajay Jain
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kunzum travel mag (Previous Issues)
Missed the earlier issues of the Kunzum Travel Mag? No problem. Download the same at http://kunzum.com/mag. This is what we have covered:
Issue 1, July 2011
Issue 2, aUGUST 2011
RAJASTHAN / RANTHAMBHORE: > Looking the tiger in the eye NAGALAND: Misty Mountain Top The re-discovery of NEPAL LADAKH: At the top of the world HIMACHAL PRADESH / LAHAUL SPITI > Kaza: Paradise is Here > Tabo, the Village of Cavemen and Lamas DELHI > Mehrauli Archaeological Park: Bet no one tells you this one > Hazrat Nizamuddin’s Dargah: Qawwalis, Fairs, Prayers, Shopping – It all happens here
Assam: > Manas National Park: The Games Elephants Play Arunachal Pradesh: > Hello Ladies…of Arunachal Pradesh Himachal Pradesh Maharashtra: > The Matheran Light Railway: Go for a Joyride Uttarakhand > Kunzum Route K14 Delhi > If it’s Ramadan, you must be in Matia Mahal > Walk on the Northern Ridge: History in One Sweep Rajasthan > Kuldhara, Jaisalmer: When the Paliwals Vanished into the Night > Bera: Welcome to Leopard Country - It is Wild and Free
BOOKS: > 5 books to read about the 1996 Everest disaster GUJARAT > Rani ki Vav in Patan: A Stepwell or a Work of Art? > The Sun Temple at Modhera JORDAN > Dead Sea: Try sinking in it, you cannot! HOTEL REVIEWS > Swaswara in Gokarna, Karnataka - Perfect to uplift your body, mind and soul > Banasura Island Retreat, Wayanad Kerala - What a perfect setting for a resort > Banjara Camps and Retreat, Sangla, Himachal Pradesh - Cannot Admire it Enough > Gir Birding Lodge, Sasan Gir, Gujarat - They know the jungle!
HOTEL REVIEWS > Banjara Retreat, Shoja > The Almond Villa, Srinagar > Rann Riders, Dasada, Rann of Kutch > Devra Homestay, Udaipur Stuff > Sketch Feature - Singapore > Photography: Don’t let the Camera go Dead on you > Book Review: Journey to the Center of the Earth
Issue 3, SEPTEMBER 2011 A Journey to Kashmir, on Kunzum Route K11 Delhi > Join the annual Dussehra Procession Safdarjung’s Tomb Tamil Nadu: The Niligiri Mountain Railway - A Toy Train you must Ride Rajasthan Jodhpur: Food, Bazaars, History - It all Happens Here Hotel Reviews > Castle Bera, Bera, Rajasthan Rain Country Resorts > Wayanad, Kerala >The Blackbuck Lodge, Velavadar, Gujarat > Banjara Orchard Retreat, Thanedar, Himachal Pradesh Stuff > Travel Bites: Don’t be Jet-Lagged this Holiday Season > Sketch Feature - Malaysia > Book Review: River Dog
Issue 5, november 2011 Bikaner, Rajasthan: Enchanting camel fair and lots more Thanedar: The birthplace of apples in India Photo Feature: Hitting a Wall Delhi Purana Qila (Old Fort): Where emperors take fatal tumbles Khair-ul-Manazil Mosque: A gift from the nanny Hotel Reviews > Iora, The Retreat - Kaziranga, Assam > Fish Tail Lodge - Pokhara, Nepal Stuff > The Wanderer’s Palate: A chick for every season > Sketch Feature - Switzerland > Book Review: Three Men in a Boat > The Handwritten Travelogue
Issue 4, OCTOBER 2011 Postcards from Gujarat Himachal Pradesh Thanedar: The birthplace of apples in India Rajasthan Mount Abu: A quiet oasis in a desert state Delhi Chor Minar: Making an example of thieves Khooni Darwaza: The gate with a bloody history Kinari Bazaar: Where colours change with seasons Jordan Wadi Rum: A vast, echoing and God-like desert Hotel Reviews > Wild Grass Lodge, Kaziranga, Assam > Soulitude, Ramgarh, Uttarakhand Stuff > The Wanderer’s Palate: Elai Adai > Travel Bites > Sketch Feature - Kanha National Park > Book Review: Being a Scot > The Handwritten Travelogue
DELHI
Quwwat-ul-Islam Mosque When history changed forever…
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he Delhi we know today had its foundations laid in A.D. 1191-92 when Mohammed Ghori of Ghazni in centraleast Afghanistan defeated Prithviraj Chauhan, the last Hindu monarch to rule Delhi. He entrusted Qutbuddin Aibak, his slave general, as administrator of this newly acquired territory. And the first task he set out to do was building the Quwwat-ul-Islam, or the Might of Islam, mosque. It stands next to the Qutab Minar.
In fact, the rear part of the mosque with pillars may have been a part of an original Hindu temple; this is known as Prithviraj Chauhan’s Chaunsath Khamba or 64-pillared hall. The pillars used from Hindu temples had images of humans and animals, banned in Islam. These were defaced leaving only the rest of the bodies still to be seen. The mosque does not even have a dome, unlike those made later. It was either never made, or it collapsed.
Qutbuddin did not have any designers and architects with him, nor did he have enough financial resources to build the mosque. He proceeded to demolish 27 Jain and Hindu temples and build the mosque using its materials on the same site. He employed Hindu masons from Lal Kot to carry out the task at hand. With little knowledge of Islamic styles, these workers made structures very different from what one saw in the following centuries in India. They built arches without keystones, which collapsed subsequently. Qutbuddin also wanted texts from the Koran in Arabic to be engraved, but the workers could only manage to carve beautiful plants growing up the arch and put Arabic texts in between the leaves.
Iltutmish, who succeeded Qutbuddin, made expansions to the mosque by adding six more arches – some of which are still existing in their original form. Expert workers from Ghor and Persia had come over by this time, their work distinctly standing out from the earlier one. Instead of flowers and plants, they made geometrical figures like circles and triangles.
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Alauddin Khilji decided to expand the mosque further by adding more arches. For over a hundred years, this mosque was the Jama Masjid or the main mosque for the royals of Delhi. Eventually, Firozshah built a new one in the city of Firozabad in 1360. Alauddin also added a gateway to the mosque, called the Alai Darwaza, made of sandstone and
marble. By this time, the problem of arches and domes had also been solved. Overall, the construction took place without any proper plans in the Qutab complex and went on from the 12th to the 19th centuries. After Timur took Delhi in 1398, the mosque fell into a state of disrepair till the British took it upon themselves to repair the arches in the mid-19th century.
western wall facing Mecca, you cannot but feel a historical chill run up your spine. In 1192, 27 Jain and Hindu temples were demolished to make a mosque – and the first formal outpost of Islam was established in India. The country would never be the same again – socially and politically. Exactly 800 years later, in 1992, the right wing Bhartiya Janta Party demolished the Babri Masjid (mosque) in Ayodhya in North India to make a Hindu temple – and the history of modern India changed forever.
When you stand at the mosque and face the Mehrab or the
Qutab Minar Still Looking for Answers Pisa in Italy has its Leaning Tower, Paris its Eiffel Tower and Delhi its Qutab Minar – the branding of these cities are all linked to their most famous landmarks. But none have as much history and intrigue as Delhi’s minaret. For starters, no one knows for sure why this was built. Did the king seek pleasure at its sight? Was it built to give a call to prayer? From 234 feet high (a climb of 378 steps), the highest single tower in the world, the mullahs (priests) are unlikely to be audible at the ground level. In all likelihood it may have been built as a Tower of Victory. Allow a stretch of the imagination, and maybe Qutbuddin Aibak was only too pleased to be elevated from a slave to a king and this was his way of celebrating the moment. There is another thought going around: it was built in the memory of Sufi saint Qutbuddin Kaki whose mazaar (shrine) is nearby; the name of the minaret is on account of the saint rather than the king. If nothing else, it certainly served as a good watch tower for the Khilji and Tughlaq kings, who could monitor the progress of the wild Mongol hordes on their way to invade Delhi. Then there are theories about who built the Minar. Hindus believe the first storey was actually built by the last Hindu King of Delhi, Prithviraj Chauhan. Why? For his wife and daughter to enjoy views of the river Yamuna in the evenings. Evidently, the river used to flow much closer to this area than its current position. But no historian or archaeologist has stuck his neck out yet to support this claim. Fortunately, neither have any Hindu fundamentalists. Until we know any better, the credit for the first floor clearly rests with Qutbuddin Aibak, and the next two floors by his successor Iltutmish. The minaret has reportedly been struck by lightening thrice in its history, and two earthquakes caused further damages besides giving the minaret a slight tilt to one side. Firoz Shah had to repair the top two floors and even added a little pavilion at the top. These two floors are distinguished by their smooth white marble finish. It underwent further
View of the Qutab Minar through the arches of Quwwat-ul-Islam mosque
repairs under Sikander Lodi in 1505. After further damages in 1794, British Major Smith decided to replace the cupola at the top with a new one. The Governor General Sir Henry Hardinge did not approve of it and had it removed in 1848. This structure now stands on the ground in one corner and referred to as ‘Smith’s folly.’ One has grown up listening to theories about the Qutab having two more floors that came down when a plane crashed into it. However, an accident of that nature would have been recorded as it could only have happened in the modern era. And , in all probability then, not just two, but 9
the whole structure would have collapsed like the Twin Towers in New York. After a stampede killed many school children in 1981, visitors are no longer allowed to climb the Qutab Minar – a pity really, denying one a 360 degree view of the city. The
structure had gained infamy with its top floor being used as a diving board for those wanting to fast forward their move to the next life. A thought here: the Minar was built with sloping roofs to give it a strong foundation – anyone jumping off the top floor is likely to crash against the walls and not the ground first.
Allaudin Khilji’s unfinished tower of victory
Alauddin Khilji’s Follies and Contributions Alauddin Khilji did his bit to add to the Qutab Minar complex in the early 14th century. He made a madarsa or a place of learning for students to learn Arabic and study the Koran. According to one report he is buried next to this madarsa but one is not sure. His folly was trying to build a Tower of Victory to commemorate his victories in the Deccan region of south India. He wanted it to be twice the height of the Qutab Minar. He died soon after starting work on it. The tower, called Alai Minar, stands close to the Qutab Minar with only the lower floor partially complete. The structure was found to be too perpendicular to be stable. And the political turmoil following Alauddin’s death when five kings came to power over a decade meant such works could never have 10
priority. Both the expansion work on the mosque and this minaret were left incomplete forever. Where do Iltutmish and Qutbuddin rest in peace? Illtutmish had the foresight to plan his own tomb, and made one of red stone in the Qutab Minar complex. Surprisingly it has no dome; it probably had a timber covering which got worn away with time. The local architects were still not knowledgeable about making domes at that stage. It is one of the oldest Muslim tombs in India. The only identifiable one before this is of his eldest son, Nasiruddin Mohammed, who died before him in 1228-9. His tomb, known at Sultan Garhi, is located in the present day Vasant Kunj area of south Delhi.
The Iron Pillar Go figure its dimensions The wonders around Qutab Minar (itself a wonder) never cease. Take the case of the Iron Pillar located in the Quwwat-ul-Islam Mosque compound. Dating back to the 4th century A.D., the pillar bears an inscription whose interpretation says it was erected to honour Hindu God Vishnu by a certain King Chandra (could possibly be King Chandragupta II, A.D. 375 – 413). These facts may not be confirmed, but the pillar’s Superman features are. It stands 7.3 meters tall, one meter below the ground; it is 48 centimetres wide at the foot, tapering to 29 cms at the top (you need to figure out how to measure the top yourself!). And, it should weigh about 6.5 tonnes – again lift it to prove us wrong. If these dimensions are not in place, somebody has tampered with our pillar! And there is more: the pillar is 98 percent wrought iron and has stood 1,600 years without rusting or decomposing. Those old guys really knew their stuff! And was it thick-skinned. When Nadir Shah attacked Delhi, his workers could not uproot it as snakes are believed to have surrounded the pillar to form a protective barrier. Cannon shots could leave little more than marks on the surface – these might have been fired either by Nadir Shah’s army or the Marathas. The pillar also survived earthquakes that damaged other structures in the complex. There was a time when you were allowed to go right up to the pillar and put your arms around it – a fence keeps people at bay now. The only known exception in recent times was for Bollywood superstar Amitabh Bachchan while shooting for the film Cheeni Kum. Watch the flick to know if his arms managed to hug the pillar fully.
The Iron Pillar in the Qutab Minar complex
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Razia Sultan Will the Queen rise from her real grave? Only two women have ‘ruled’ India from Delhi. The first was Razia Sultan who ruled from A.D. 1236 – 1240 as the chosen heir to her father Shamsuddin Iltutmish; she was preferred over her brothers. And the other was democratically elected Indira Gandhi, the prime minister for multiple terms between the 1960s and the 1980s. What did they have in common? Both met violent deaths. The Queen was killed in battlefield when her own nobles and brother Bahram Shah rebelled against her. Indira Gandhi too was the victim of an inside job when she was assassinated on 31 October 1984 by her own bodyguards at her own residence. Indira Gandhi’s memorial is at her former residence, 1 Safdarjung Road in New Delhi.
What happened to Razia Sultan? Officially, she is buried deep in the bylanes of Bulbuli Khana in old Delhi. The unpretentious site has two simple graves, one supposedly of her sister Saziya. No one is sure which is whose. But the uncertainty does not end here. Her burial sites are also (unofficially) claimed to be in Siwan near Kaithal in Haryana, in Tonk in Rajasthan and at the mosque next to the Rajon ki Baoli in Mehrauli Archaeological Park in south Delhi. If you solve the mystery, tell us. Digging graves at midnight may not be a good idea though.
Getting there: Take the Metro to Chawri Bazaar. From here, walk till the end of Sitaram Bazaar and ask for Bulbuli Khana starting alongside a mosque. Enter the lane, and take the first left; at the next fork, turn right and keep walking till the dead end. Alternately, you can walk from Turkman Gate and reach the same place.
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Sultan garhi
Step out on an empty stomach
The entrance to the Sultan Garhi. The basement with the graves where the devout come calling on Thursdays at Sultan Garhi (Inset)
Surreal show in the basement tomb
T
he Sultan Garhi tomb is known to be the oldest surviving resting place for anyone in Delhi. The basement with three graves is usually dark and damp, and you have to watch your step, and head, when you go in. Little stirs inside except on Thursdays.
after his father Sultan Iltutmish but met an untimely death around 1231 A.D. Nasiru’d-Din was the brother of Razia Sultan, the first and only woman monarch to rule from Delhi. Tragically, all siblings met with untimely or violent deaths.
It is the day when both Muslims and Hindus converge here all day to offer their prayers to Nasiru’d-Din Baba, and the underground turns all surreal. Hundreds of lamps and candles are lit by devotees, creating a smoky lighted wonder within. It is jostling time with scores cramping the space at any given time - but it will not disturb your senses. The sight will keep you transfixed, even moving you in a way. Faith does have a certain kind of an energy to it.
Thursdays are a day for prayers and feasting. The welloff serve free meals around mid-day, and a small flea market comes up in the surrounding area. People from neighbouring areas come in a festive mood. Located in south Delhi’s Vasant Kunj area, it is off the main thoroughfare in a forested area. You can see it from the road, but chances are you will ignore it. Don’t. Venture in, and spend some time with yourself on any day. You will not be able to stop yourself from wondering about the man who lies buried since nearly forever, and the times that were. Even as airplanes whiz by above you to and from the city’s airport nearby.
Surprisingly, the tomb is not dedicated to a holy man but to a prince who would have been emperor, or sultan. Nasiru’d-Din Mahmud was the heir-apparent to the throne
Travel Tip: Sultan Garhi is located opposite Sector C, Pocket 9 in south Delhi’s Vasant Kunj.
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The assembly hall, or Majlis Khana
Hauz Khas Back to School
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s far as oases go, Hauz Khas is tough to beat. A green lung, away from the noise and dust of the city, with historical structures to boot and a water body to calm the soul – all in the heart of south Delhi. The opening credit should go to Alauddin Khilji (1296 – 1316) who built a private reservoir when making the new city of Siri in the early 14th century – the name means special (Khas) tank (Hauz), made specifically for royal use. He called this reservoir Hauz-i-Alai, and it had a capacity of about 800 million litres. The following act starred Firoz Shah Tughlaq (1351 – 1388) who set up a Madrasa (an educational institution) called Madrasa-e-Feroz Shahi – and established Delhi as a great seat of learning. And the present day authorities deserve a pat on the back for landscaping the area to make for fun outings.
The Madrasa served as a university of its time. The teachings included Arabic, the Koran, Muslim Theology, Philosophy and Law. It attracted scholars from as far as Central Asia to study and teach. Persian was studied by nobles but usually through private tutors. Citizens pursuing commercial professionals went to their own schools where they were taught in their vernacular languages like Hindi and Urdu. When you explore the buildings, allow your imagination to go back in time and visualize students pursuing academics in the many chambers of the Madrasa. The buildings were said to have been covered with white plaster at the time, and painted in bright colours with golden domes. A large hall, a majlis khana, was used as an assembly hall. Firoz Shah decided to build his own tomb at the intersection of the two wings of
Metro: Green Park (a 20-30 minute walk from there or a quick rickshaw ride)
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The tomb of Feroz Shah
the Madrasa. In the garden outside are chhatris, or domes supported by pillars open on the sides. At one time there were unidentifiable graves here, probably of the teachers, but these have been flattened – in all likelihood by people who used these for shelter over the centuries.
Be careful, don’t take a tumble from the edge of the monuments. It is a steep fall – and don’t think you will go Splaaaash! The water tank is some distance away and you will only hear Craaaack!!
Chhatris in the gardens
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Humayun’s Tomb
Humayun’s Tomb For Husband, With Love!
T
he fifth Mughal emperor Shahjahan may be a hero to every romantic for building the Taj Mahal in the memory of his wife Mumtaz Mahal, but did you know the inspiration came from his great grandmother Hamida Banu Begum? Wife of second Mughal emperor Humayun, she built the Humayun’s Tomb in the loving memory of her late husband. Some sources also credit the building to Humayun’s senior widow, Bega Begum, also known as Haji Begum (because she performed the Haj). Persian architect Mirak Mirza Ghiyas ensured the final resting place befitted the status of the deceased. And when Shahjahan started work on the Taj Mahal, he came knocking on the doors of Humayun’s Tomb for design ideas. It was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1993. It was built in 1565, nine years after Humayun tumbled down his library steps and died. The site was selected for its proximity to the Nizamuddin Dargah, the mausoleum of the 16
Sufi saint Hazrat Nizamuddin Auliya. The whole area was thus believed to be blessed and, if one is buried here too, it was seen as a shortcut to heaven. It also explains why you see so many tombs in this area including the ones at Lodi Gardens. The Mughals were much richer than the earlier rulers of Delhi, and this is reflected in the use of higher quality sandstone and marble. A lot of effort and money went in the carved texts and inlay work on marble walls, as also the jaali or trellis work in red sandstone. The dome is a full dome; it is a full semicircle while all previous ones in Delhi were half semicircles. The building also stands on a large platform, giving it an even more imposing look. Besides Humayun, his wife and some subsequent Mughal royalty are buried here. All are unmarked, but one of these is of Dara Shikoh, eldest son of Shahjahan, who was murdered by his brother Aurangzeb to usurp the throne. Although he now rests in peace (we hope!), Humayun’s reign was marked
The mosque and tomb of Isa Khan Niyasi by a lot of strife! He came to power in 1530 after the death of his father Babur but lost his throne to Sher Shah or Sher Khan (no, not the one from ‘Jungle Book’!) in 1539. After spending 15 years in exile, he did get his kingdom back in 1555 but died a year later! Mughals loved to build gardens, and they did so wherever they went (including the famous Mughal Gardens of Srinagar in Kashmir). It is the case here too. These are interlaced with water channels to keep the gardens green and fresh. Roses had been planted to bloom in the day, while jasmines flowered at night. There were fruit trees like pomegranates and flowering ones like Gulmohar and Amaltas. This planning ensured beautiful sights all year round, 24 hours a day. The river Yamuna used to form the North-Eastern wall of the complex but has since changed course, replaced by a motorable road with a railway line not too far behind. When you enter the complex, you will notice an octagonal enclosure; it is a mosque and tomb of Isa Khan Niyasi, one of the nobles of Sher Shah. It predates the Humayun’s Tomb, built in 1547 during the noble’s lifetime. Until the early 20th century, an entire village was settled within the enclosure.
To the right is another archway leading to what is known as the Arab Serai (Serai means Rest House). It was built in 1560-61 by Hamida Banu Begum for either the 300 Arabs she brought back with her from Mecca, or Persian artisans working on the tomb. Travellers on the Grand Trunk Road later used it for night halts. In another version, it was known as Jahangir Mandi (meaning market place); the recesses were used as stalls. The enclosure has many unmarked graves too. The tomb is a solemn place, but Humayun’s life was far from it. Humayun has been described by some historians as a bit of a libertine who spent months on end feasting on wine, opium and poetry, or playing dice on the ‘carpet of mirth’ in court. He was known to be extremely superstitious, managing his kingdom’s administration astrologically; he would always step into a room left foot first. If you want to follow in his footsteps, place the left foot first when you enter the mausoleum. You may also pack a little picnic ‘feast’ but don’t expect to be served by any courtesans. Nor will you be allowed to consume any wine in public spaces. A game of dice without gambling is fine, but opium is a no-no. The sight of the monument is enough to give you a high.
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The Mughal Dynasty The Mughals came to power in India when Zahiruddin Muhammad, affectionately known as ‘Babur’, came from Central Asia in 1526 and defeated Ibrahim Lodi in the first battle of Panipat. Subsequent lineage who ruled the empire went as: Nasiruddin Humayun (1530-1540 and 1555-1556), Jalaluddin Muhammad Akbar --- also known as Akbar the Great --- (155616050, Muhammad Salim Jahangir (1605-1627), Muhammad Shahjahan (1628-1658) and Muhammad Aurangzeb Bahadur Alamgir (1658-1707). The rule of Aurangzeb is known as the beginning of the end of Mughal rule – all subsequent rulers only brought upon further decline till the British took over.
Restoring the past Between 2000 and 2003, The Aga Khan Trust for Culture funded and collaborated with the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) in implementing a project to revitalize the 30 acre garden surrounding the Humayun’s Tomb. This included repairs of 3-km long water channels, restoring 3.5 km of pathway edging, removing earth in excess of 3,000 truckloads, handchiselling 4 km of sandstone, planting 2,500 plants favoured by the Mughals, restoring 25,000 sq metres of pathways and introducing an exhaustive rainwater harvesting system. Besides this, other minor structures have been restored, historical wells discovered and desilted and wheelchair access and a site interpretation centre provided.
Additional Facts about the Tomb • • • •
The mausoleum stands on a platform of 12,000 sq metres and reaches a height of 47 metres. The tomb within it has over 100 graves earning it the nickname ‘Dormitory of the Mughals.’ Built of rubble masonry, it is the first structure in the country to use such high quantities of red sandstone and marble. The small canopies on the terrace were initially covered with glazed blue tiles.
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A Walk Down Mehrauli Village I
n the beginning Delhi was Mehrauli. When new cities like Jahanpanah, Siri and other subsequent ones came up, this became the old city. When Shahjahanabad was built, that was the new Delhi and Mehrauli was not even regarded a part of Delhi – it was like another town or village that people ‘travelled’ to. And when today’s central Delhi and later south Delhi were developed, Shahjahanabad became old Delhi and Mehrauli again became a part of New Delhi.
Are you confused? A walk in the village takes you back centuries, where residents live like they would in an urban village – with parts being taken over for some of the finest restaurants and boutiques in the city. While the latter may be well known, a peek into the lesser known historical remains is highly recommended.
Adham Khan’s Tomb or Bhoolbhulaiyana
Adham Khan’s Tomb or Bhoolbhulaiyan
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dham Khan was a favoured noble of Mughal Emperor Akbar, and son of his foster mother Maham Anaga. Adham Khan committed the folly of murdering another of Akbar’s favourites, Atgah Khan, and was awarded the death penalty. This tomb was built in Adham Khan’s memory by his mother. It is by far the largest structure in the village,
and cannot be missed opposite the bus terminal. It is also known as Bhoolbhulaiyan because of a maze on its upper corridor along the dome – it is supposedly easy to get lost in it. Unfortunately, it is now closed to visitors. According to the ASI caretaker, there is a tunnel running from here all the way to Agra! 19
Gandhak ki Baoli
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urn left into the narrow lane leading to the bazaars of Mehrauli, and you will come to a step-well called Gandhak ki Baoli. It is said to have been built during the reign of Iltutmish. Five storeys deep, it got its name from the strong smell (gandh) of sulphur emanating from it. Sadly enough, it has gone dry now.
Gandhak ki Baoli
Zafar Mahal
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Zafar Mahal – the mosque in the background is the Shrine of Khwaja Qutubuddin Bakhtiyar Kaki. The royal graves in the palace are in a marble enclosure –with a vacant spot for the grave of Bahadur Shah Zafar II
uch of a ruin, this was originally built by Akbar II who reigned from 1806 to 1837 with major additions by Bahadur Shah Zafar II, the last in the line of Mughal emperors. The three storeyed building is crumbling, and you can go up only because of reinforcements by the ASI. But still be careful – you never know what might give way sending you into nothingness below. A marble enclosure within the complex has the graves of some Mughal emperors like Bahadur Shah I (son of Aurangzeb, who ruled from 1707 – 1712), Shah Alam (ruled from 1759-1806) and Akbar Shah II (1806 – 1837). An empty space between the graves of the first two has been earmarked for Bahadur Shah II, who died in exile in Rangoon and rests in peace there.
Hijron ka Khanqah
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his is one of the most interesting places in Mehrauli, one many residents themselves are not aware of. It is a graveyard for eunuchs (known as hijras). It is in the middle of the Mehrauli bazaar, and you can easily miss its small entrance. There are about 50 white graves, all of eunuchs, one standing out from the rest. According to the caretaker Naushad, this one is believed to be of the adopted sister (not a eunuch) of Qutubuddin Bakhtiyar Kaki. Some versions date this graveyard back to the Lodi period of the 15th century. No fresh burials are made here anymore. But it has a western prayer wall, or Mehrab, that is used for prayers on special occasions. The place is maintained by Naushad and another caretaker; they take up odd jobs to support themselves and rely on donations for the upkeep. You can go anytime as long as one of the two is around; they live within the compound. 20
Hijron ka Khanqah
Jahaz Mahal
Jahaz Mahal
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his pavilion is built on the banks of the Hauz-i-Shamsi, or water reservoir. One is not sure of the origins, but it may have been built around the 15th century in the Lodi period. It could have served as a serai or a rest house for travellers, or as a retreat for the later Mughal emperors. It is also the venue of the annual Phoolwalon ki Sair, the procession of florists held around October. The reservoir itself may have been built around 1230 A.D. by Iltutmish. Unfortunately, it requires cleaning up and a conservation effort to restore it to its original pristine state. And a commitment by residents not to throw garbage or wash
clothes in it. Across the road, through some slums is another place called the Jharna meaning waterfall. It was built within some Mughal Gardens around 1700, and water from the reservoir would flow into it. This water would be used to run fountains, and to further channelize it for use of residents. Mehrauli village is clearly a case of being a rich place going to seed – but it is still worth the obstacle course created by high density living and poor maintenance.
Shrine of Khwaja Qutubuddin Bakhtiyar Kaki
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any an emperor and other nobles preferred to be buried in the area as it was the khanqah or blessed area of the Sufi saint and mystic, Qutubuddin Bakhtiyar Kaki, who came from Iran and died in 1235 A.D. His shrine adjoins the Zafar Mahal, and is one of the more revered destinations for the devout.
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Rajasthan
The Jaisalmer Fort
Jaisalmer The city in the fort, and beyond
This is a city that has always lived in a fort and continues to do so even today. The fort may be the main attraction, but Jaisalmer has much more to offer on its platter.
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First, the fort itself It is tough to distinguish between the historical and the present in the fort - time lies intertwined here. Built in 1156 by Bhati ruler Rawal Jaisal on the Trikuta Hill, it is also known as Sonar Qila or Golden Fort because of the use of yellow sandstone which takes on a honey-gold hue in the setting sun. It has a perimeter of 5 kms (3 miles), rising 76 metres above the surrounding countryside and marked by 99 bastions. Jaisalmer fell along an important ancient trading route, doing business with Persia, Arabia, Egypt and other African countries. With the rise of Bombay during the British rule, all trade moved away leaving Jaisalmer isolated. The economy is driven by tourism now. Within the milieu / ramparts of the fort are beautiful Jain temples, old havelis or mansions, a palace museum, restaurants, hotels and shops. The Jain temples are particularly noteworthy because of their fine carvings, with each temple boasting its own unique design. Atop the wall along the entrance gates, you will see rounded stones which were meant to be thrown at advancing enemies; this gives a feeling of war-readiness even today. The central courtyard within the fort is called Dusshera Chowk, and the royalty celebrated the Hindu festival of Dusshera here till 1974 after which it was shifted
The Gadsisar Lake
outside the fort. Women would watch the proceedings from behind the stone-meshed windows. A visit to the palace and museum gives you an insight into the times gone by. Most notable are the exhibits of arms and the throne. You get beautiful views of the city and beyond from the upper floors; a sun clock on the terrace tells you the time if you know how to interpret the same. The chambers used by the kings and queens give you a peek into their personal lifestyles.
The fort with a view of the city beyond
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Palace and museum building within the fort
A beautifully sculptured ceiling with the Jain temples 24
Beyond the Fort Walk around town and you will see many havelis (mansions), some going back centuries, built by rich businessmen. Most continue to be inhabited but are welcoming of visitors. Some of the better known ones are Salimji ki Haveli, Patwon ki Haveli and Nathmalji ki Haveli; these are best accessed by foot or on cycle rickshaws. Two other spots not to be missed are the Vyas Chhatris and the Gadsisar Lake. The latter was built by Maharaja Gadsi Singh in 1367 to serve as a water reservoir for the entire fort. Its banks are dotted with temples and shrines; it also attracts migratory birds during the winters. Away from the hustle and bustle of the town, it is a calm oasis where one can spend hours - on the edge of the water or in a boat. The Vyas Chhatris are the cenotaph of Sage Vyas who wrote the Hindu epic Mahabharata. This is the place to go for stunning views of the setting sun, and also to see the Jaisalmer fort glow in the evening light.
The Gadsisar Lake
The Vyas Chhatris
The Jain Temples
Sun setting over the Vyas Chhatris 25
Kuldhara Kuldhara was once a bustling town inhabited by the Paliwal Brahmins, a rich business and agricultural community since 1291 A.D. And then suddenly, one night in 1825, all the residents of Kuldhara and 83 nearby villages vanished into the dark. Lock, stock and barrel, leaving their houses behind - an architectural wonder worth visiting. Read about Kuldhara in the August 2011 issue of the Kunzum Travel Mag. Download the same at http://kunzum. com/docs/kunzum-mag-aug11.pdf
A view of the village
Setting sun over the Sam Dunes
Sam Dunes These come highly recommended but don’t go with very great expectations lest you come back disappointed. The Sam (pronounced ‘some’) Dunes, located 45 kilometers (28 miles) from Jaisalmer, do not live up to the imagery of the Arabian or Saharan deserts, but make for an enjoyable evening out. A one-hour long camel safari starts at the 26
parking lot, but ends within 10 minutes - the rest of the time is to be spent on the dunes enjoying the views of the beautiful sunsets and getting yourself entertained by local artists. You can go for a short visit, or stay at the dozens of camps along the road to Sam.
Food If in Rajasthan, food can never be out of the mind. As usual, I was out looking for traditional cuisine - eventually got some authentic stuff at an eatery outside the fort. A family run place, they cooked in the kitchen and served in the modified living room. When I requested to go easy on the pure oil at its fatty best (baati or flour dumpling eaten as a bread are usually served after soaking them in oil) the grandfather got upset over the very idea! Sorry grandpa, cannot roam around with an oily belly! The Bhatia Market is so named as most shopkeepers come with the family name Bhatia. I ordered Indian sweets at Dhanaraj Ranmal Bhatia - the proprietor is the seventh generation running this business. Wow! They serve common sweets like petha, kalakand, peda, different kinds of ladoos including some they claim as their own recipes: Ghotua (made from besan, mawa and kesar) and Panchdhari (made from moong daal, mawa, maida, pure oil and sugar). Delicious and fatty!
Samosas for sale at Dhanaraj Ranmal Bhatia eatery
High on Bhaang in Rajasthan, without being a nuisance When in Jaisalmer, do pay a visit to Doctor Bhaang. For a different kind of a high. Everyone knows where to find his ‘clinic.’ Prepared from the leaves and buds of the female cannabis plant, Bhaang can be taken in many different ways. It is commonly added to drinks like Thandai, or snacks like pakoras and Indian sweets and is consumed during festive occasions especially on Holi. Addicts take these in the form of a paste rolled into the shape of a ball. The Government auctions rights to set up vends to sell Bhaang. Doctor Bhaang, real name Chander Prakash Vyas but known popularly as Babu, is the third generation of a family holding these rights since the early 1970s. You can have Bhaang in many forms at his shop: in chocolates, cookies, sweets, buttermilk and juices. The dosage comes in ‘baby’ and strong portions; the former is for those just starting out. Or for Japanese and Koreans because they have small eyes, and they will not return if they can’t handle it says the ‘doctor.’
Doctor Bhang (in front), real name Chander Prakash Vyas, with his father in the background
Does Bhaang have any merits too? Oh yes, says my host. In his own words: “It has full power, no shower, no toilet for 24 hours. It is best for long journeys, desert tours and 27
camel safaris; instead of bobbing up and down, a camel ride will feel like a flying carpet. It elevates moods, even causing mild euphoria. Itstimulates the appetite, and even serves as a mild aphrodisiac.” Babu’s doped out grandfather looked only middle aged, Bhaang being the secret of his ‘youth’ - he has not been to a doctor for 45 years. Bhaang could put apples out of favour. Babu’s warning: Avoid Bhaang in places like Varanasi and Pushkar where it is adulterated with Dhatura, a kind of LSD, and can cause blindness. Babu does not sell raw Bhaang, but Girdhari Lal in Bikaner readily does: 100 grams powder for Rs. 100 (US$ 2) or as a moist, rolled up ball for Rs. 10. I saw a local popping a few of the latter with water. Don’t such people become a public nuisance? No, said Girdhari Lal. On the contrary, Bhaang calms the mind and makes it stable. It helps focus, reason why manylawyers and judges consume this regularly. It is effective if you want to sit for hours meditating to Lord Shiva. Unlike someone under the influence of alcohol, a high on Bhaang means you will sit peacefully in one corner and not wake up in a drain. Bhaang is cool to have; after all, it has the ‘blessings’ of Bhole Shankar, or Lord Shiva, as many a ‘high’ sadhus in holy cities will testify.
Girdhari Lal’s mortar stone with its depression after 50 years of use
Washing the Bhang down with water
Jaislamer: Travel Tips • Weather: Mild winters and very hot summers. • Best time to go: October to February. • Best Reached: By road. Or take a flight to Jodhpur and by road from there. • Recommended Stay: At least 2 days. • Combine trip with: Bikaner and Jodhpur
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Thailand
A dragon signifying Thai-Chinese friendship during the Loi Krathong Festival
A Festival of Lanterns, Lights and Floats in Chiang Mai If you are in love , or want to make any wishes for your future life , head to Chiang Mai a few days before the full moon night of the 12th lunar month - usually falling in November. And participate in one of the most beautiful of festivals of lanterns, lights and floats. The Yi Peng festival is usually a four day affair, starting two days before the full moon night. With many more days of events and festivities. These are days when the whole town is decorated with lanterns, lights, flowers and other decorations. Schedules and events vary every year, but the first day is usually marked with a lantern and floats contest parade going through the old city from Thapae Gate to the Pantip Plaza.
or connecting with the Buddha and seeking His blessings. Of course, come morning, and you will see these deflated balloons all over town.
The skies come alive with hundreds and thousands of hot air balloons going into the sky. Called khome loy, these are usually made of saa paper (hand-made from mulberry tree). Its light texture lends itself to going up easily with the hot air generated from an oil lamp lit at its base. For the romantic at heart, it is a time to promise a life of happiness with their loved ones. Others make personal wishes, see it as their troubles floating away into the skies
The full moon night is marked by the Loi Krathong festival. On this day, people in Chiang Mai gather along the Ping river to release Krathongs into the water. A Krathong is a small vessel made of a folded banana leaf attached to a slice of banana stalk. These are decorated with flowers, candles and joss sticks - releasing these in the water means you let your troubles float away. Loi means ‘to drift.’ Those in love reaffirm their feelings to one another. It can be
The festival is also marked by music performances, theatre, beauty pageants, fireworks and lantern and balloon exhibitions. You will see lantern decorations and gigantic lit installations all over town.
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quite a sight seeing thousands of these bringing the river alive in a different way. This festival is also celebrated in other regions of Thailand.
from the Hindu festival of lights, Diwali. In both cases, the linkages to India are strong, where both these religions originated.
These festivals have been celebrated for time immemorial, with different theories about their history. These may have originated from Buddhist festivities in the past, or inspired
Head to Chiang Mai anytime, but especially so during these festivals. Plan in advance - hotels and flights can be a problem with the rush of visitors.
Hot air lanters (Khome Loy) being released in Chiang Mai
Fire dancer during a parade during the Yi Peng festival
A float during a parade during the Yi Peng festival in Chiang Mai
Dancer at a parade during the Yi Peng festival
A couple in a parade during the Yi Peng festival
Dancers at a parade during the Yi Peng festival
Dancers at a parade during the Yi Peng festival
Image from a parade during the Yi Peng festival
Decorations in Chiang Mai during the Loi Krathong Festival . The statue of 4 lions is depicted from the Ashoka Pillars from India
A couple in a parade during the Yi Peng festival
Decorations in Chiang Mai during the Loi Krathong festival
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Feel the wind. Explore. Ride away. On a 500 cc motorbike. There may be no better way to see India. Decide your own route, or take one of our recommendations.
Bike rentals | Tour Advisories | Guided Tours.
www.royalindiabikes.com | +91.99100 12597 | +91.9871697719 | rajiv@royalindiabikes.com North India – rajiv@royalindiabikes.com ; saiba@royalindiabikes.com | South India – malvikaa@gmail.com
Learn to shoot Like pros. Discover your creative seLf. anD proDuce images that onLy you can. the kunzum meDia Lab wiLL show you how.
If you want to be a good photographer, you have to appreciate the art behind the imagery. Pick up some technical skills. And then allow your senses to create something only you can. Your photography has to be your own. Your identity has to be stamped on it. But we all need mentors to make it happen. The Kunzum Media Lab can play that role. With our unique approach to teaching you the art of photography. And we don’t stop at just teaching you to be a good photographer. We show you the way how to manage your portfolio, exhibit your work, use social media for marketing and branding, get your content published as books and more.
Check the schedule of upcoming workshops and programs at http://kunzum.com/medialab or call +91.9650 702 777
Camp Pinewood Trails is set in the heart of Himachal Pradesh and 30 minutes drive from a small town Kandaghat on the Chail Road, Camp Pinewood Trails is surrounded by lush cedar forests. It offers unlimited options for hikes along meandering hilly trek routes. A short trek above the camp is yet another rejuvenating experience with magnificent views to greet you. Softer options are a quiet relaxing stroll around the campsite and cosy naps under the sun. Whatever you choose its bound to be memorable and invigorating. Location: Situated in the valley at Sadhupul, 12 kms away from Kandaghat on the KandaghatChail road, 17 kms before Chail in Himachal Pradesh. Its well laid-out, safe, healthy and easily accessible.
• AccommodAtion And fAcilities: We have a Cluster of Fifteen 12’ x 12’ size, sturdy tents with ground bedding and sleeping bags, Bathing/washing and toilet facilities (Western), and an open dining space. Activities: • Adventure Activities: Rappelling, Commando Net, Burma Bridge, Flying Fox, Tyrolean Traverse, Bridge slithering, Double rope bridge. • Games: Volleyball, Badminton, Carom, and Chess. • trekking • Bird watching • Bonfire with loads of games, singing and interactive fun.
Address: 110, Aamrpali Apartments, Plot no-56, I.P. Extension, Patpar Ganj, Delhi -110092 Mobile: 9811213026/9873411989 Email: jeffrey@pinewoodtrails.com, alex@pinewoodtrails.com Website: http://pinewoodtrails.com/contactus.html
A Division of AsiAn ADventures T: +91-11-44128785, M: +91-9811704651, E: wildindiatours@vsnl.com, W: www.asianadventures.net
We travel. And come back with stories and images. And we put all these great holiday ideas as the
travel list
1-25 1-25 1-25 1-25 1-25
ttrra v isssttt l eeee vvv le llllllll ttrraaaa ii i v i sstt t r ajaajajay yay inin jaay yjaja ja jain in in ja aj a
The Kunzum Travel List is a compilation of great holiday ideas for you to choose from. From all across India, Nepal and the rest of the subcontinent. Holidays you will cherish, and remember for a lifetime. Something you will share with others and evoke envy - prompting friends to ask you more so they too can head out on the same path. All put together in the form of books for you.
Want to have a great time travelling? Visit http://kunzum.com/travellist The Kunzum Travel List is currently available as an e-book in PDF format and for the iPad and Kindle. 42
HOTEL REVIEW
River Tern Lodge,
Bhadra Wildlife Sanctuary, Karnataka When Government owned enterprises set up hotels, they usually take up the best spots for themselves. And usually go on to make a mess of it. Not Jungle Lodges, with their property River Tern Lodge at the Bhadra Tiger Reserve and Wildlife Sanctuary in Karnataka. The setting first: you will rarely see a better one. Located in the Chikmagalur district, all coffee country, you are also in wild country. The cottages in the lodge are all perched on the edges of hills, overlooking the Bhadra reservoir in the river by the same name. The lodge gets its name from the thousands of River Tern birds who congregate on an island in the river during season. Along with many other birds, they add to the landscape with the water body, forests and the Babubudangiri mountain range stretching into the horizon. Other than the crackling of birds, the only sounds to be heard are those of thunder and rain - the intensity varying
with the time of the year. You can sit in your balcony for hours, or even days, on end - the setting is no less than mesmerizing. This is where you can compose songs, write books, paint, photograph - your creative juices will flow even if you are not an expert. And you will want to reflect upon life, and naturally feel uplifted. The sanctuary is home to elephants, tigers, leopards, wild dogs, palm civet, stripe-necked mongoose, sloth bear, sambar, spotted deer and other animals. Jungle and river safaris are a part of the package when you book. Other activities include sailing, kayaking, water cycle, water trampoline and water see-saw. The property has 24 cottages, all well maintained and furnished. Meals, both southern and northern Indian cuisines, are served in a semi-open rounded gazebo - the chef does a good job on the whole. Check in, and forget the world beyond. 41
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Contact Jungle Lodges & Resorts Ltd., Ground Floor, West Entrance, Khanija Bhavan, Race Course Road, Bangalore-560 001 Tel: +91.80.40554055 Web: http://junglelodges.com 43
HOTEL REVIEW
Shaam-e-Sarhad Village Resort, Hodka, Gujarat
If you want to explore the Rann of Kutch region, you are best advised to stay in Hodka village. At the Shaam-eSarhad (Sunset at the Border) Village Resort, located in the middle of a quiet desert country. Owned and managed by the local residents of Hodka, it is a charming place where you can actually get a feel of much of what is authentically traditional in the region. Designed in local mud architectural style, and exquisitely handcrafted with mirror work, textiles and other local crafts, the resort is the perfect gateway to the rich and diverse heritage of the region. The experience of staying in Kachchhi mud huts, called bhungas, with mud walls, mud floor, a mud bed and a sloping thatch roof is tough to match. Bhungas are circular in design, with lounge chairs in private open spaces. There are options of tents too. Rooms are all en-suite, comfortable, clean and simple. 44
Sit by a bonfire at night, with the sky in full starry glow, and listen to Kachchhi folk music rendered in reedy voices - and your soul will feel it has been touched by magic. The hospitality by locals comes from their hearts; the hosts are ever smiling and welcoming. Meals include a Kachchhi buffet dinner of bajara ni roti with ghee and gud, followed by Khichdi-kadhi besides other dishes. Gujarati cuisine is also served for lunch and dinner. Breakfast in Indian or Continental. Only vegetarian food is served, and Gujarat enforces a policy of alcohol prohibition. Hodka serves a great base for exploring the villages and windswept lands of northern Kachchh. Local bhomiyas (guides) will take you around the Hodka artists village, introduce you to residents and acquaint you with their way of living, crafts and traditions. Their crafts include embroideries, leather works, lacquer work , weaving and block printing. You can also sign up for workshops in embroidery and leather work.
Check out the region’s animals and birds including flamingos, pelicans, nilgai, foxes, wild ass (rarely) and the evasive leopard. You can go for a bird watching excursion to the wetlands of Chhari Dhandh, or plan a day trip to Dholavira, India’s largest archaeological site belonging to the renowned Indus Valley (Harappan) Civilization. Visit the impressive Lakhpat fort, an important trading port at
one time. Take a dip in the Narayan Sarovar, one of the five holiest lakes for Hindus. Just a mile further from here is Koteshwar, the western most motorable point of India on the Arabian sea. In the evening, go to Kala Dungar to witness the daily ritual of offering sweetened rice to foxes. And do take time out to do nothing at the resort.
Travel Tips • Resort is open only from October to March. • Getting there: Nearest railhead and airport is at Bhuj, 65 kms (40 miles) away • Website: http://hodka.in • Email: hodka.in@gmail.com • Tel: +91.9099908049, +91.2803.296222 • Tariffs: Rs. 2,800 - 4,800 • Address: Shaam-e-Sarhad Village Resort, Endogenous Tourism Project, Hodka Village, Banni, Bhuj (Kachchh), Gujarat 370 510 • Office in Bhuj: Shaam E Sarhad Village Resort, c/o Q A S A B, 173/5-B, “SATYAM SHIVAM SUNDARAM”, Jalaram Society, Hospital Road, Bhuj (Kachchh), Gujarat, 370 001
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kunzum Travel Pix
We start a new series this month where we post some interesting snapshots from our travels. Enjoy!
by Ajay Jain
kunzum.com
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Buyers and sellers negotiating at the early morning vegetables and fruits market in the Dal Lake in Srinagar, Kashmir in India. This daily market seems to have been around forever.
by Ajay Jain
kunzum.com
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The Matheran Toy Train has been in service since March 22, 1907 and runs from Neral in the foothills of the Western Ghats in Maharashtra in India to the popular hill town of Matheran, located at 803.45 metres (2,636 feet).The 20 kms (12.4 miles) journey takes about two hours.
by Ajay Jain
kunzum.com
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If you are in Jodhpur in Rajasthan, India , you must have the Mirchi Vadas - big green chilies dipped in gram flour and deep fried. Order at ‘Shahi Samosa’ shop near the Clock Tower; also try their samosas, bread pakoras, badi pyaza ki kachor and mogar ki kachori.
by Ajay Jain
kunzum.com
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A hidden wonder of India: The Kiramchi temples, 8 kms (5 miles) from Udhampur in the state of Jammu and Kashmir in India. The temples are believed to have been built in the 8th-9th centuries A.D.
by Ajay Jain
kunzum.com
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Komic near Kaza in Lahaul Spiti, Himachal Pradesh in India is probably the highest village in the world at 4,587 metres (15,049 feet). And its Buddhist monastery hosts an annual festival around October, and is a not-to-be-missed gem of an event.
by Ajay Jain
kunzum.com
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A 3-year old Tiger cub cooling off in a water pool in Ranthambhore National Park in Rajasthan, India. His mother and sibling are off to hunt for food; he can’t hunt yet. The best time to go Tiger spotting is during peak summers.
Viswaprasad Raju is a Hyderabad-based advertising professional, and is also a random sketchcrawler, a weekly cartoonist and an occasional travel writer. He collects cheap souvenirs like coasters and dreams of expensive holiday breaks to a National Park (any state) or anywhere in Europe (any country). Presently he is working on a screenplay for a feature film.
Connect with him at viswaprasadraju@gmail.com or find him at http://facebook.com/viswaprasadraju and http://hyderabadadvtg.blogspot.com.
BOOK REVIEW
INTO THIN AIR
The book that exposed Mount Everest By Nimish Dubey
For most people, ascending Mount Everest, the tallest mountain on earth, remains the ultimate travel fantasy. For years, Everest had been most travellers’ holy grail, notwithstanding the risks involved (many people died in their attempts to conquer the peak). A major accident in May 1996 that claimed the lives of eight climbers did shock many but was initially considered part of the hazard of climbing. Until Jon Krakauer’s Into Thin Air hit the stands later that year.By far the highest selling book on mountaineering, Into Thin Air blew the top off the mountaineering guide business, showing how trained mountaineers acted as “guides” to take totally inexperienced people on to the top of the world. For a massive fee, of course.
zone where there was nothing one could against the fury of nature, in conditions of near zero visibility, sub zero temperatures and winds that literally blew people off the mountain. By the time things cleared, there were no fewer than eight climbers dead and one missing. Among the dead were Fischer and Hall – team leaders who had paid the ultimate price for putting
The problem with this arrangement was that the guides sometimes actually put money before safety in an attempt to ensure that more “clients” reached the peak. And that is exactly what happened on May 10, 1996, when a number of climbing teams were trying to ascend Everest on the same day. Two of these were headed by a couple of the most experienced moutaineers in the world, Scott Fischer and Rob Hall. Krakauer himself was part of one of those teams, covering the climb for Outside magazine. As schedules clashed, teams chose to ignore warnings about the weather, focussing instead on getting to the peak and getting photographed there. Little did they know many would not return. A fierce storm hit Everest even as the teams were on their way down and as most of the climbers were not experienced, panic set in. Fischer and Hall tried to get a grip on matters but were helpless in a 50
their clients’ interests above safety. All this in itself would have been enough to make a gripping work, but Krakauer makes it even better with his narrative skills. One of the problems with books about mountains has been the fact that they have been written by people who are better at wielding ice axes than pens. The prose has inevitably suffered
as a consequence – even Sir Edmund Hillary’s account of conquering Everest for the first time is a relatively tame read, exciting only for the event it covers rather than the narration. Krakauer, however, is a different kettle of fish, being a thoroughbred journalist in his own right. And it shows. You actually feel the chill seep into your veins as he describes conditions on the mountain and I defy you to stop reading his account of when the storm hits the stranded mountaineers, many of whom are shocked at seeing their all expenses paid trip to Everest turn into a funeral march. This is no objective, cold analysis of a tragic event by a bystander but a full blooded account of what happened on one of the saddest days in mountaineering history, by a person who saw it all unfold in front of his horrified eyes. The last moments of Fischer and Hall, the valiant attempts of the sherpas to save people, the controversial efforts of Anatoli Boukreev (whom Krakauer criticised so much that he himself wrote a book on the entire episode – yes, we will review that one too), the miraculous escape of Beck Weathers who had actually been left for dead but managed to make it back to safety somehow – all form an integral of what I must confess has got to be one of the travel classics of our time, right alongside Apsley CherryGarrard’s The Worst Journey in the World. Buy it. Read it. Everest will no longer have the same appeal for you again. It may be the highest mountain in the world. It is also the world’s highest graveyard.
PHEW!
Finally a place for travellers to meet. In the real world - not on social media. To simply bum around. Exchange travel stories. Make travel plans. Read up & buy travel books. Post travelogues, images & videos. pick up photographic art. Even write books.
Over coffee and cookies. And free Wi-Fi. Only at the
Travel Cafe
address: T-49, GF, Hauz Khas Village, New Delhi 110 016, India telephone: +91.11.2651 3949 | +91.9650 702 777 | website: http://kunzum.com/travelcafe | mail@kunzum.com Open Tuesday - Sunday, 11:00 a.m. - 7:30 p.m. (Mondays Closed)
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Travel Cafe
When travellers come calling at the Kunzum Travel Cafe, they often leave a note behind for us. Here are some from the wall. Come over for coffee, and write one too.
The Handwritten Travelogue We love to hear travel stories from our guests when they visit the Kunzum Travel Cafe in New Delhi. Better still, we like them to write the same in our scrapbook for others to read - like what you see here. Do you have one to share too? We are waiting...
The stunning Common Rosefinch (Carpodacus erythrinus) is a breeding visitor to Sikkim and Arunachal Pradesh and can be seen on mulberry trees Š Rajat Bhargava/WWF-india
You don’t like ugly paan stains; neither does nature The Green Hiker Campaign is a part of WWF's initiative to conserve Himalayan high altitude wetlands. The Ministry of Tourism, Government of India is a partner to the campaign. greenhiker@wwfindia.net www.wwfindia.org/greenhiker
PEEP PEEP DON’T SLEEP A book on funny road signs and advertisements with captions and commentary by Ajay Jain If you thought road signs are only meant to guide and inform, think again. The ones on Indian highways are in a zone of their own. They shower you with words of wisdom, keep your mind sharp as you unravel their cryptic messages, tickle your imagination, amuse you and entertain you. In public interest, they lend a hand to Alcoholics Anonymous. Since journeys are meant to be a pleasure, they remind you to ‘Smile Please.’ The entertainment for the traveler does not stop at this. There are the limitless public notices, outdoor advertisements and storefront signs with their own idiosyncrasies and eccentricities. Who needs comic strips in this country? Ajay Jain drove thousands of miles to put together this collection of signs. With a bit of witty commentary thrown in, this book will be a journey unlike any other you may have undertaken. Resulting in you letting out a ‘Peep Peep’ of delight.
For more on the book, sample chapters and to order visit www.peeppeepdontsleep.com Available as a Paperback, as a PDF and for the iPad and Kindle 36
Postcards from Ladakh A Pictorial Travelogue by Ajay Jain
Postcards from Ladakh is a collection of frames - picture postcards, if you will - frozen circa 2009, when the author drove for over 10,000 kms (6,000 miles) across the remote and fascinating region of Ladakh in the Indian Himalayas. Neither guidebook nor encyclopedia, it is intended to give you a flavour of this high altitude cold desert. You will also meet a few Ladakhis in these pages. And see the land they live in, the faith they live by, the hope they live on‌Each of them will spontaneously greet you with a cheerful Julley and invite you to be part of their culture and society. No Ladakhi is a stranger. We just haven’t had the time to meet them all...
For more on the book, sample chapters and to order visit www.kunzum.com/postcardsfromladakh Available as a Paperback, as a PDF and for the iPad and Kindle
A picture may be worth a thousand words But the Kunzum PhotoTalkies are a journey in themselves
What are PhotoTalkies?
Simply put, these are photo essays - only packing a bigger punch . With more images and supporting text than an essay you would see in a newspaper or a magazine . Current versions have been designed as a PDF - to be viewed on any device supporting this format. But it is best seen on an iPad . And these are all FREE! Looks like it is the season of freebies from Kunzum. http://kunzum.com/phototalkies
S i n c e 2007, Kunzum has served as an i m p o r t a n t g u i d e f o r t r a v e l l e r s p l a n n i n g j o u r n e y s i n I n dia and the subcontinent - and so m e i n t e r n a t i o n a l d e s t i n a t i o n s t o o . I N T RODUCTIONS FIRST… K u n zum is a high altitude pass in the L a h a u l S p i t i r e g i o n o f H i m a c h a l P r a d e s h i n I n d i a . A n d the inspiration behind the brand t h a t i s a l l a b o u t m e m o r a b l e t r a v e l e x p e r i e n c e s . O u r journey started in 2007 as a trave l b l o g b y w r i t e r a n d p h o t o g r a p h e r, A j a y J a i n . A n d w e h ave crossed many milestones - li t e r a l l y a n d f i g u r a t i v e l y - s i n c e t h e n . K U N ZUM.COM An independent, objective and one of the most trusted online travel information websites in India. A unique style of writing, peppered with anecdotes and illustrated with high quality photographs and videos, have won the site a fan following of tens of thousands of travellers. More at http://kunzum.com. T H E KUNZUM TRAVEL MAG A u n i q u e p r o d u c t , i t i s a m o n t h l y e - m a g a v a i l a b l e a s a P D F, f o r t h e i P a d a n d Kindle, and for online reading with flipping pages on Issuu.com. Subscription is FREE at http://kunzum.com/mag. P U B LISHING We publish engaging and quality travel books and guides in both traditional formats as well as e-books (for the iPad, Amazon’s Kindle, other mobile readers and all computers). More at http://kunzum.com/books. C U R ATOR OF COLLECTIBLE PHOTO G R A P H I C A R T Available for your walls at home, office or resort and also as stock imagery for publishing and promotional materials. All printed on archival paper to last g e n e r a t i o n s . The prints are also on d i s p l a y a t t h e K u n z u m Tr a v e l C a f é . C h e c k t h e c o l l ection at htt p://kunzumgallery.com . K U N ZUM TRAVEL CAFÉ A nother unique offering from Kunzum - a bricks and mortar place for the travel-minded to come together as a community, a sort of Face-to-Facebook network. Located in Hauz Khas Village in New Delhi, guests can hang around, read travel books, use free Wi-Fi, participate in events, exchange stories, enjoy music, buy photographic art, post travelogues and make travel plans. They can even order tea, coffee and cookies - and pay what they like. More at http://kunzum.com/travelcafe.
C ONTACT US A jay Jain | ajay@ajayjain.com | +91.99100 44476 Shruti Sharma | shruti@kunzum.com | +91.98119 84545 LINKS Online http://kunzum.com
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AB OUT AJ AY JAIN Ajay Jain is a full time writer, journalist and photographer based in New Delhi in India. He is not limited in his medium of expression, equally comfor table writing for newspapers and magazines, as well as his own books and blogs. Star ting his writing career in 2001, he has been covering business, technology and youth affairs before deciding to focus wholly on travel writing. He pursues his passion by being on the road as much as he can. He has written three books, the latest being Postcards from Ladakh (http://www. kunzum.com/postcardsfromladakh), a pictorial travelogue on Ladakh. His first, Let ’s Connect: Using LinkedIn to Get Ahead at Work, is a management book on professional networking using the world’s most popular professional networking site LinkedIn.com. It was published in early 2008. His other book, and his first travel book, Peep Peep Don’t Sleep (http://www. peeppeepdontsleep.com), is a collection of funny road signs and adver tisements.
Co n tac t
Email: ajay@ajayjain.com M o b i l e : + 91. 9 910 0 4 4 4 76
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He has worked for and written columns for national publications in India including The Hindustan Times, Mint, Fi n a n c i a l E x p r e s s , I n d i a n M a n a g e m e n t (Business Standard), Outlook Business, Deccan Herald, Mumbai Mirror ( Times of India), Discover India, Swagat, Asian A g e a n d R e d i f f. c o m . H e h a s a l s o e d i t e d a y o u t h n e w s p a p e r, T h e C a m p u s Pa p e r. Prior to tak ing up writing, he has worked i n t h e I n f o r m a t i o n Te c h n o l o g y a n d S p o r t s Management sectors. He holds degrees Mechanical Engineering (Delhi College of Engineering, 1992), Management ( Fo r e S c h o o l o f M a n a g e m e n t , 1 9 9 4 ) a n d J o u r n a l i s m ( C a r d i f f U n i v e r s i t y, U K , 2 0 0 2 ) . H i s s c h o o l i n g w a s a t S t . C o l u m b a’s S c h o o l in New Delhi.