Kunzum Travel Mag - June 2012

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Issue 9 | June 2012

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Ladakh

buddhist Festivals 1

kunzum Travel Cafe Turns Two

Thank you all for your love and support.

June is a special month for us, despite reeling under the Delhi heat and humidity.

It was in June 2007 when we drove to the Kunzum La (pass) in Lahaul Spiti in Himachal Pradesh - and thus was born the brand.

And on June 12, 2010 we opened the doors to the Kunzum Travel Cafe. And we must confess, it turned out to be a game changer in a way we never anticipated. But then again, it has also turned out to be like one of our journeys - we never know what to expect at the next bend.

So, just like the new year, it may be a time for resolutions.

Do we have any? Yes, we do. All directed towards making travels richer, more fun and easier for you. In the coming weeks and months, we will: * Launch a series of destination / attraction specific e-books for your smartphones, iPads, other tablets and computers. The first of these should be out by mid-June. * Revamp the Kunzum website - we cannot spill the beans on what is planned at this stage. * Put together many more events for you at the Kunzum Travel Cafe including travel talks, photography discussions, workshops, film screenings, book readings and more. * Take you out for local and outstation getaways with our travel partners. These include cycling tours, heritage walks, explorations on foot and photo walks in Delhi. And we will also take you out on self driving holidays, starting late June. * Make the Club Kunzum community stronger. Have you signed up to be a member yet?

Do you have any travel resolutions to make yourself? Do share these with us.

Contents Ladakh The Buddhist Festivals

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Karnataka Bhadra Wildlife Sanctuary 23 Coorg 34

Thailand The Bridge over the River Kwai

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Stuff Sketch Feature 55 Great Journeys 57 Travel Pix 64

Team Kunzum CTO (Chief Travelling Officer): Ajay Jain - He also hogs the driver’s seat

CEO (Chief Editorial Officer): Anubhuti Rana - Prefers being on the passenger seat on the highways

CDO (Chief Design Officer): Supreet J Bargi - Also Chief Desk Officer, that’s where he is stuck when others travel

CSO (Chief Sales Offices): Apurbo Banerjee - He will sell anything to you

Lead - Club Kunzum: Shilpa Gupta - The legal eagle who is siding with travellers now

*Unless mentioned, all articles and photographs in this issue are by Ajay Jain

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Ladakh The Buddhist Festivals

Ladakh, located in the high altitude Himalayas in northern India, is the sacred land of Buddhists. Staying isolated from the rest of the world for a good part of the year has enabled Ladakhis to preserve and practice their religion like they have for centuries. And it shows in the Buddhist festivals, annual events at most monasteries.

The biggest and most popular is the one at the Hemis Monastery; it helps that it falls in the peak tourist season of June - July. Crowds can be madding here, and it is advisable one reaches very early to secure a spot. No such problem at other monasteries though - not too many tourists go there as they are either off their circuit, or the dates fall during the non-summers months when it can get extremely cold.

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These festivals are essentially different kinds of masked dances, each with a theme or a prayer. The dances have evolved into vibrant events, with costumes made of brocade and silk, in bright golds, reds, blues and greens. Masks of a clay-cotton mix are painted in natural colours and polished in gold and silver.

Trumpets, cymbals, drums, bells and flageolets provide the accompanying music. Dancers flourish sacred items like daggers, spears, bells, vajras, skulls and damrus. Decades or sometimes even centuries old, these are brought out for special events only.

The origins of these dances go back to the 9th century when the rise of Buddhism at the expense of the Bon religion provoked Langdarma, Tibet’s Bon king, into persecuting Buddhists. Monks were disrobed and monasteries dismantled. In frustration, the powerful monk Palji Dorge came dancing to Lhasa, dressed in a wide-brimmed black hat, high boots and brocade costume, and pierced the king’s heart with an arrow. This was the prototypical cham, now popular as the Buddhist masked dance, though some trace it back to the Sakyamuni (the historical Buddha) era.

Cham was patronised by Guru Padmasambhava, when he visited the court of Tibetan king Trisong Deutsen in the 8th century.

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The Hemis Festival opens with an act by 13 dancers dressed like Palji Dorge. Supposedly endowed with spiritual powers, they symbolically ward off any evil spirits that might hinder the festival.

While at the events, shop for curios and handicrafts. Relish local delicacies at stalls set up to raise funds for the monasteries. At some surprise stalls, you can even play games of skill and chance, with money at stake!

A bored lama boy at the Hemis Festival. The start was delayed due to rain.

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Meet the boy lamas

Traditionally, Ladakhi parents would send one of their infant sons to lead a life of monkhood.

While this may no longer be practiced by all, there are still many such boy lamas (monks) to be seen at monasteries. But boys will be boys, and they cannot help being restless or mischievous. Or plain simple bored when they cannot be out playing.

Lamas (Buddhist monks) of all ages come from all over to attend festivals and participate in the religious ceremonies.

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There cannot be any dances, even religious masked ones, without music.

The monks here are playing Buddhist chants on their traditional instruments.

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Buddhist Nuns at the Hemis Festival. They sure can laugh out loud, but what are some of them smoking?

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The devout add a colour of their own

While the monks add colour and music to the festivals, the devout do their bit too. Not only do they come dressed in their best on these special days, but many come wearing masks themselves. They even carry decorative flowers (often artificial since almost nothing grows in Ladakh), or religious symbols, or musical instruments. The festivals are one big occasion to be happy.

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Beat the crowds at Hemis Festival Always reach Hemis early on festival days and grab a good spot. Limited space means visitors perch wherever they can, like on rooftops and parapets. And pray you don’t need to go the rest room through the crowds! Only the presence of holy spirits seems to prevent stampedes there. Here is a peek at the audience attending the Hemis Festival.

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The monastery's official disciplinarian tries to control crowds with his whip

A young lama using a whip to clear the way for the masked dancers. Seems the child wields the rod too, at times

THE LAMA’S WHIP COMES WITH A BLESSING A child may not always need the rod but a crowd often will. Even in Hemis.

The audience at the Hemis Festival overwhelms the monastery’s capacity. Visitors spill over, even into the central courtyard that is reserved for masked dances. Keeping people within the roped enclosure is tough, as the throng bursts at the seams, forcing the usually non-violent lamas to brandish the whip. Literally. It works, but only up to a point. It would be more effective if the whip were struck hard enough. But you don’t expect a Buddhist to show force, do you? No one minds being ‘struck’ though - it is seen as a blessing when a representative of their Gods makes physical contact in any way.

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WHEN FAITH MAKES IT ALL POSSIBLE

Faith can move mountains, they say. And if you’re a disciple of His Holiness the Twelfth Gyalwang Drukpa, you’ll probably scale mountains, following him on an overwhelmingly arduous 400-km, sixweek ‘padyatra on the world’s rooftop’ from Manali to Hemis in 2009.

The goal: promote the values of the lineage and the causes of environment, education, health and culture. The end of the walk coincided with the date of the annual festival at Hemis.

The 600 odd participants, who came from all over the globe, walked over passes like Shikun La, Hanamur La, Singge La, Kongskil La and Flying Fox, at altitudes touching 5,182 metres (17,000 feet).

They would walk up to 12 hours every day in cold, oxygen-deprived conditions. They had to set off early, before sun thawed snow and make it impossible for their 300 horses (carrying supplies) to trot on. Despite any exhaustion, everyone had to pitch their own tents. On one occasion, some had to sleep in the open in sub-zero temperatures for four nights - the pack horses had got left behind.

What made them go on? A follower said, "I have never, ever trekked. Only faith made me go through with it."

Would you like to join the Drukpas when they undertake their next padyatra? You would only be welcomed to be a part of it.

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Looking out for His Holiness the

Twelfth Gyalwang

Drukpa

to

reach

Hemis

Monastery at the end of His six-week

long "padyatra"

When His Holiness comes calling

His Holiness the Twelfth Gyalwang Drukpa heads the Drukpa sect of Buddhism, and has the highest number of followers amongst all Buddhists in Ladakh. It is a special occasion when His Holiness comes calling anywhere. Monks, nuns and the devout come from far and wide to seek His blessings. The monks at Hemis Monastery wait wearing masks and dresses for His Holiness to arrive and mark the start of the annual Hemis Festival.

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The Oracles at Matho.

Photo Courtesy: Tensin Kunga

THE TRANCE OF THE ORACLES OF MATHO I went looking for the famed oracles of Matho gompa. I was disappointed to learn that they appear only during the annual Nagrang Festival in February or March.

The oracles are two lamas from Matho, possessed by the spirits of the brothers Rongtsan Kar and Mar, but only during the festival. Known for their protective powers, these brothers came from Tibet with Matho’s founder, Dorje Palzang.

In a trance, they perform stunning acts. They run along walls and rooftops without falling off.

They cut their mouths and hands with sharp knives, bleeding profusely and yet their wounds heal in a day. They walk about in masks without eyeholes, seeing through the angry eyes of deities painted on their torsos.

People flock to the oracles for advice, for predictions. When the oracles fling roasted barley in the courtyard, the amount falling in each direction projects how the crops there would fare. If they don matted red hair, people gear up for calamity. On the festival’s seventh and final day, they visit the shrine of Rongtsan Kar and Mar, push their heads into the abundant juniper bushes and snap out of their trance till the following year.

Do they suffer identity crises for the rest of the year?

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Phiyang: Practicing for the Festival It’s fun to watch the lamas practice for the annual festival at Phiyang monastery. Away from public scrutiny, their fun side emerges. Most dancers have two left feet. They try twirling but need demos from a 71-year-old lama. They get into huddles like American footballers to discuss strategy, they clown about, they fall over themselves. A 10-year-old guffaws and even takes time out to play cricket with a stick and pebbles. Sans festive finery and masks, these wannabe dancers amuse me.

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BUDDHIST FESTIVALS IN LADAKH TRAVEL TIPS * Most festivals have no restrictions on anyone attending the same. Some may charge a nominal fee.

Certain prayer sessions are open to monks and / or nuns only. * You are advised to dress appropriately as monasteries are places of worship. * Pack some food and water - you may not get options to your liking. * Weather changes dramatically in Ladakh at a short notice - always carry extra warm clothing and rain / snow protection.

SCHEDULE The dates of festivals in monasteries in Ladakh change every year, and you are advised to make your travel plans after confirming the same. Given below is the calendar from 2011 - 2014 but do double check before you head out.

Read the schedule as: Name of Festival / Monastery: Dates in 2011 / Dates in 2012 / Dates in 2013 / Dates in 2014. NA denotes dates not available.

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Spituk Gustor: Stongde Gustor: Dosmocheyleh: Likir & Diskit: Stok Seschu: Matho Nagrang: Sindhu Darshan: Saka Dawa: Hemis Tseschu: Yuru Kabgyad: Karsha Gustor: Phiyang Tserup:

Korzok Gustor: Dakthok (Takthok) Tsechu: Sani Naro Nasjal: Shanchukul Gustor: Ladakh Festival: Thiksey Gustor: Chemde Angchok: Galdan Namchot: Losar:

Jan 31 – Feb 1 / Jan 21 - 22 / Jan 9 - 10 / Jan 28 - 29 July 18 – 19 / July 06 – 07 / June 26 – 27 / NA Mar 02 – 03 / Feb 19 – 20 / Feb 08 – 09 / NA Mar 02 – 03 / Feb 19 – 20 / Feb 08 – 09 / Feb 27 - 28 Mar 14 – 15 / Feb 02 – 03 / Feb 19 – 20 / Mar 10 - 11 Mar 18 – 19 / Feb 07 – 08 / Feb 24 – 25 / Mar 15 - 16 Jun 12 – 14 / Jun 12 – 14 / Jun 12 – 14 / Jun 12 - 14 Jun 15 / May 04 / May 25 / June 13 Jul 10 – 11 / Jun 29 – 30 / Jun 18 – 19 / Jul 07 - 08 Jun 28 – 29 / Jun 16 – 17 / Jun 05 – 06 / NA Jul 27 – 28 / Jul 15 – 16 / Jul 06 – 07 / Jul 23 - 24 July 28 – 29 / Jul 16 – 17 / Jul 06 – 07 / Jul 24 - 25 Aug 02 – 03 / Jul 22 – 23 / Jul 11 – 12 / Jul 30 - 21 Aug 08 – 09 / Jul 28 – 29 / Jul 18 – 19 / Aug 06 - 07 Aug 12 – 13 / Aug 01 – 02 / Jul 21 – 22 / Aug 09 - 10 Jul 17 – 18 / Jul 05 -06 / Jun 25 – 26 / NA Sep 1 – 15 / Sep 1 – 15 / Sep 1 – 15 / Sep 1 - 15 Nov 13 – 14 /Nov 01 – 02 / Nov 20 – 21 / Nov 09 - 10 Nov 23 – 24 / Nov 11 – 12 / Nov 30 – 1 Dec / Nov 20 - 21 Dec 20 / Dec 08 / Dec 27 / Dec 16 Dec 25 / Dec 14 / Jan 02 / Dec 22 19

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Bhadra Wildlife Sanctuary

Karnataka

Your trip to Bhadra Wildlife Sanctuary starts with chai on the

balcony of your cottage in the River Tern Lodge. The flavor is enhanced by the Bhadra reservoir below with its tranquil waters, the hill ranges of

Babubudangiri and the sun playing hide and seek through the wispy clouds;

intermittent misty drizzle adds to the effect. And this is during the peak summer months; imagine what awaits the rest of the year! You may not be faulted for wanting to stay put, but a safari awaits.

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About Bhadra Wildlife Sanctuary The sanctuary gets its name from the Bhadra river flowing through its forests; it is also called Muthodi Wildlife Sanctuary after a village along its fringes.

Spread over 500 sq. kms (193 sq. miles), it is a part of the Project Tiger conservation program; spotting the big cat is a rarity though. Located between the Chikmagalur and Shimoga districts of Karnataka, the forest is mostly the dry, deciduous type with trees like teak, rosewood, mathi, honne, nandi, bamboo, tadasalu and kindal.

â–˛ A Crested Serpent Eagle in the twilight zone

The reserve is home to elephants, leopards, tigers, gaur (Indian Bison), wild dogs, palm civet, stripenecked mongoose, sloth bear, sambar deer, spotted deer and the wild boar. Bird life includes the grey junglefowl, red spurfowl, painted bush quail, emerald dove, southern green imperial pigeon, great black woodpecker, malabar parakeet, hill myna and the river terns. The complete list is much longer though.

A jungle safari Bhadra boasts one of the most beautiful forests in the country, mostly under the shade of tall trees; with sunlight filtering through in parts and at certain angles, the resulting play of colours make the safari an exotic experience.

The jungle is full of animals and birds, and you only have to think beyond the tiger to appreciate all that it has to offer. Even the commonly found Spotted Deer deserve more than a passing glance despite being ubiquitous all over India; look into their eyes and you will fall in love with them.

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A water safari An early morning cruise in the Bhadra reservoir is a not-to-be missed activity; the main attraction being the River Tern birds. They congregate by the thousands on an island during breeding season, giving your lodge its name too. Their population is at its highest in April and May. River Terns are distinguished with their yellow bills, red legs, dark grey upperparts, white underparts and long pointed wings - and their graceful flight.

â—„ A River Tern

The Little Pratincole â–ş

Of course, the water body is rich with many other species of birds; coast closer to the banks and you may well see many animals and other birds too if you are lucky. The cruise usually lasts just under two hours; your surroundings, clean air and the silence is just what you need to feel romantic.

While here, you can also participate in water based activities like sailing, kayaking, water cycling, water trampoline and joy fishing through your lodge.

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Bhadra: Travel Tips * Accommodation: Your only option is the River Tern Lodge run by Jungle Lodges (http://www.junglelodges.com). Only they are

authorized to take you for jungle and boat safaris, a tad unfair.

Fortunately, they do a good job, unlike many other Government organizations.

* Getting there: Bhadra is about 270 kms (170 miles) from

Bangalore with its international airport, 85 kms (53 miles) from Chikmagalur, and 38 kms (24 miles) from Shimoga. * Best time to visit: October to March.

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Coorg, Karnataka Envy the folks who live there

At Talacauvery 34

Coorg is almost a perfect place to visit, and even to settle down in. Rolling hills, forests, coffee estates, water bodies, history, great weather all year round, people you would love to befriend, awesome places to stay - you have it all, and more. While travellers may complain, not being very close to airports and railheads means there is a barrier to crowds making a mess of the region. Its close proximity to the Nilgiris in Tamil Nadu, Wayanad in Kerala and other attractions within Karnataka means you will have your hands full enjoying Coorg.

Coorg is Coorg; it is not the Scotland of India Coorg, also known as Kodagu, is often referred to as the Scotland of India but this comparison may be misplaced; Coorg is deserving of being famous as itself. It is the land of coffee, cardamom, Army colonels and the Cauvery river.

â—„ Coffee Blossoms (the white flowers) in Coorg, Karnataka

The landscape is best admired driving along its winding roads with the hills of the Western Ghats all around, showing Coorg at its charming best. Move in slow motion so you don’t miss anything. Depending on the time of the year, you can see coffee estates with their white blossoms, or with coffee cherries in various stages of ripening, or with picking on in full swing.

Many estates even invite you in - to stay at their homestays. It is a good source of income for plantation owners, even as their guests get a feel of Coorg and its people up close. With the right hosts, your stay can be comfortable and you can come back knowledgeable about all that they grow. It certainly beats staying at impersonal hotels and their concierges who make for very poor guides. But homestays are usually not geared for last minute walk-ins; do book in advance.

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Even in peak summers, Coorg offers mild weather, never touching extremes of hot or cold weather anytime of the year. The air is mostly clean, overall decibels low and scenery to inspire your creative best.

▲A homestaynear Madikeri wouldn’t youlike to stayhere?

Coffee, coffee everywhere but no espresso for you I have one complaint with Coorg: it supplies coffee to the whole country, and internationally too, but it is rare to find public places where they serve coffee that takes longer to prepare than the instant Nescafe and Bru. No espressos, no fresh brews, no French press. Coffee growers need to come together and set up coffee boutiques for those who like their coffee the way it should be served. And they will also help inculcate a taste for fine coffee amongst the uninitiated, and could well earn a better dollar for their beans.

◄ Saroja Kallappa (L) at the Coffee Pub; she is showing the coffee grinding machine financed by the Coffee Board 36

My hopes rose when I saw a sign for a ‘Coffee Pub’ at Karagunda village on the road from Madikeri to Talacauvery. Turned out to be a shop run by the 6-member Rajarajeshwari Self Help Women’s Association selling coffee (beans and ground) - they roast, grind and blend themselves. They also sell honey (Rs. 150 / kilo), juices (mint, bitter orange, lime - all at Rs. 150 a liter), bitter orange pickles (Rs. 50 for 100 grams), black pepper (Rs. 70 for 250 grams), cinnamon and other spices grown at their farm. Bought some pickles and black pepper - they were truly organic with excellent flavouring. Saroja Kallappa, the lady running it, said the grinding machine was financed by the Coffee Board. You will find many such private and nonprofit shops all over Coorg.

Juices, pickles and spices on sale at Coffee Pub ►

Joining elephants in their bathrooms in Dubare So what if it is more like a pet elephant facility?

A visit to the Dubare Elephant Camp in Coorg is a must.

The camp is home to elephants of all ages, from babies to granddaddies. At around 9:00 a.m., they come out of their quarters and head to the water pool for their daily bath. Be careful when they come down: some amble, but some run. You don’t want to be in the way. Make sure you are there well in time - the main attraction of the camp is the elephant bath.

You can stand on the banks of the pool, or get into the water for a closer look and to give them a scrub yourself. Mind the stones below, and don’t slip - especially if you are holding a camera. The elephants don’t know the difference between a bathtub and a toilet seat - they allow their poop to drop where they are. You can be sure you are stepping on some. Hehe! Don’t let it bother you.

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â–˛ Stay clear, this is the fire brigade.

Some elephants take a leisurely bath, some play pranks. A big one decided to spray water on all the onlookers - again, mind your cameras. And a little one gave a chase to some kids but ran back to momma when the shrieking of the children startled him (or her).

What is disappointing are the chains on the elephants - guess these are important for safety reasons. After the bath, you can go feed the elephants or take a short ride on one. But these are not as much fun as the bath.

The camp is a short river crossing away - you take a motorboat, row boat or a raft. You can also perform a balancing act over a natural bridge of rocks to get to the other side. The raft takes you upstream for a ride too - and there are water pools you can dive in if you like.

Dubare is a nice place to hang around all day long - lounge in the shade when done with elephants, take a boat ride, go bird spotting, read a book or just picnic with some music from your iPod. Life will look wonderful. You can go there as a day visitor or as a guest at the lodge run by Jungle Lodges and Resorts.

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◄ While one reads the newspaper in the morning, someone else takes care of their morning jobs.

▲ One guy’s bathtub is another one’s toilet seat.

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Reaching for the clouds in Talacauvery Even in peak summers, expect to be walking inside clouds in Talacauvery, located atop the Brahmagiri hill at 4,186 feet (1,276 m). As you drive up, especially over the last 8 kms (5 miles) stretch from Bhagamandala, you can feel the clouds and the mist enveloping you as you ascend. The landscape gets increasingly beautiful all the way up.

▲ A view of the temple from atop the hill at Talacauvery.

That’s 407 steps you are looking at.

Located about 42 kms (26 miles) from Madikeri, Talacauvery is said to be the origin of the Cauvery river. You really don’t see any visible signs of the mouth of the river there: a spring feeding water into a holy tank in a temple complex is said to be the origin. The temple is dedicated to Goddess Caveriamma and Lord Agastheeswara. A dip in the tank, especially on holy days, is considered auspicious by Hindus.

A 407-step steep climb from the temple takes you atop the hill where you are supposed to get views of the surrounding mountain ranges - I only got to feel the insides of clouds. Yes, I was literally standing inside one or many clouds - I could not tell where one ended and another started.

Unless it was one big fella! I was sweating at the end despite the cool weather, but was also lost to the music of the temple bells, resonating in the quiet around me.

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Instructions for visitors to the temple

­Do not allow your children to play in the water.

Do not spit in the water.

Swimming, washing cloth and spitting is totally prohibited.

This is a holy temple not a picnic spot.

You are requested to come in traditional dresses.

Around Madikeri Madikeri is the capital of Coorg at an elevation of 5,003 feet (1,525 m), and can be a good base to explore the region. Some attractions around include: * Madikeri Fort with its stone ramparts built by Tipu Sultan and renovated by the British in the 19th century. * Omkareshwara Temple, built in 1820, featuring a blend of red tile-roofed Kerala architecture and Islamic-style domes. * The Raja’s Seat, perched atop a hill, to admire golden sunsets and spectacular views of the distant mountain ranges. * Abbey Falls, for a day picnic.

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Coorg : Travel Tips * Accommodation: Madikeri has many options to stay for all budgets. Of course, you can go beyond and check into a homestay or one of the luxurious hotels.

* Getting there: Madikeri is about 250 kms (156 miles) from

Bangalore, and about 135 kms (85 miles) from Mangalore - both these cities are well connected by air and trains with good roads leading to Coorg.

* Best time to visit: Coorg is an all-year round destination, but

you may want to avoid peak monsoon time.

* Weather: Keep some warm clothing handy in Coorg all the time, especially during winters. Days are always mild but nights can get cold.

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Postcards from Thailand The Bridge over the River Kwai

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There is actually a river called Kwai. It’s in Thailand, at Kanchanaburi located 130 kms (81 miles) west of Bangkok. And there is a bridge over it that was built by the Japanese during World War II. And it was partially destroyed by Allied Forces. You can still see a part of the original, and the rest restored later. Real trains and ‘toy trains’ still run over it.

The bridge was made famous in David Lean’s film, ‘Bridge over the River Kwai’ in 1957. While much of the real events were reconstructed in the flick, the silver screen version showed a wooden bridge whereas the present one is a metallic one. And the film was actually shot in Sri Lanka, not on the river Kwai.

The bridge was a part of what came to be called the 415 kms (259 miles) long Death Railway.

If you allow yourself not to think of the tragic events of the past, you cannot help admiring the picturesque setting of the bridge. Go on a cruise on the river over dinner in the evening.

Or have lunch in one of the restaurants overlooking the bridge.

A musician playing the signature tune from David Lean’s classic film, ‘Bridge over the River Kwai.’ The fun train can be seen coming along.

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The fun train after dropping passengers at the end of the day’s last journey, each lasting about 15 minutes

http://www.narga. net/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/doodleicons-450.jpg

The Bridge over the River Kwai: The rounded metal arches were those built by the Japanese; the ones in the centre are restorations after the end of World War II

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A dinner cruise on a restaurant built on a raft and pulled by a motor boat in Kanchanaburi in Thailand

Enjoying the Kwai River The Kwai river in Thailand sure is a beautiful one. And especially inviting for tourists in and around Kanchanaburi, located about 130 kms (81 miles) from Bangkok.

You can walk or picnic along its banks, or go for a boat ride. You can also book a dinner cruise - these are usually in restaurants built on big rafts pulled by a motor boat gently. You can also drop in for a meal at one of the many restaurants along its banks. Sunrise and Sunsets are particularly picturesque.

And make sure you check into a hotel that overlooks the river. Why would you go all the way only to look out into some fields or buildings?

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Restaurants on the banks of the River Kwai overlooking the famous World War II bridge

A restaurant on the banks on the River Kwai 49

Hotel Felix on the banks of the River Kwai

The Death Railway built by the Japanese during World War II: The wooden bridge here is an original as built by the Japanese at Wampo along the River Kwae Noi 50

The Death Railway of World War II The infamous 415 kms (259 miles) long Death Railway is a reminder of one of the worst tragedies of World War II. It was partially played out on the silver screen in David Lean’s 1957 classic, ‘Bridge over the River Kwai.’

The railway was built by the Japanese to keep the supply lines going for their troops in Myanmar (earlier Burma) during the war. They needed a more secure supply route than the vulnerable sea lines between Singapore and Myanmar. Work started simultaneously in southern Burma and Thailand in October 1942. The two ends met in Konkoita in Thailand on October 16, 1943.

The line was used to transport over 220,000 tons of military supplies between October 1943 and August 1945 before being bombed by the Allied forces. Of course, the Japanese surrendered soon after that. About 130 kms (81 miles) of the line is still in use between Non Pladuk and Namtok.

Locals and Allied Prisoners of War (PoWs) were used as labour; they were all made to work for up to 18 hours a day, with only enough food served to keep them alive. The hard work, extended hours, meager nutrition, brutal treatment, inadequate medical facilities and unhealthy conditions only meant few could survive the ordeal. Meals comprised small portions of rice, dried vegetable and dried fish. Workers got food only on days they worked. Starvation and weakened bodies led to spread of diseases like beriberi, pellagra, malaria, dysentery, cholera and tropical ulcers. Workers stayed in overcrowded huts, with primitive cooking and sanitary conditions. Close proximity and lack of clothing and footwear further caused spread of diseases.

Conditions became even more severe after April 1942 when the Japanese stepped up the pace of the work to meet their August deadline in the same year; this period was known as ‘Speedo’ and the worst for workers. This was also the wet time of the year when diseases spread more easily. ‘Disciplinary’ beatings were a norm all through. Of the 60,000 PoWs working on the railway, about 12,399 are estimated to have died; between 70,000 to 90,000 of the 270,000 civilian labourers also perished. It is said that each sleeper on the tracks cost one human life.

Little modern equipment was used for the construction making it even more punishing for the workers. Earth and rock were broken by shovels, picks and hoes and carried away in baskets and sacks. Embankments of earth and stone were created by human labour. Cuttings through rock were driven by hand. Most of the bridges along the line were timber trestle bridges made from timber cut from surrounding forests.

If you allow yourself to think about the events of past, you cannot but feel overwhelmed in the heart and the mind. One can only pray such ghastly events do not recur in the future.

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Travel Tips

* Check into one of the many resorts along the river for picturesque

views of the Kwai and the surrounding mountainous landscape. There are some in Kanchanaburi overlooking the bridge.

* A ‘toy train’ big enough for people runs over the bridge for a joy ride a few times a day - take the trip.

* An old man is often seen playing the signature tune from the movie, ‘Bridge over the River Kwai.’ Go and sing along - and give him a tip.

* You may want to visit the River Kwai Bridge Festival held in late November or early December every year.

* Visit the ‘Thailand - Burma Railway Centre’ in Kanchanaburi. It

is a well curated interactive museum about the Death Railway and the history of the same.

* Drop in at the War Cemetery across the Railway Centre with graves of British, Dutch and Australian soldiers who died during the War.

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Great Journeys Antarctica 1911-12: The journey that killed a great explorer

Nimish Dubey Of all the journeys that have been undertaken, few have been as tragic as the “race to the pole” between Britain’s Robert Scott and Norwegian Roald Amundsen. Both Scott and Amundsen were reputed explorers and each wanted to be the first human being to set foot on the South Pole. It was a bitter race and one that was tinged with controversy – many supporters of Scott claimed that Amundsen had not revealed his plans of setting out for the South Pole in an attempt to ensure he got there first. Both men used different techniques of travel in the dodgy snow – Scott and his team preferred using man-hauling techniques to get their sledges across the snow while Amundsen had no qualms in using dogs.

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After arriving on the frozen continent, Amundsen and his team set out for the Pole on October 19, 1911, with five men and 52 dogs. Scott’s team was a larger one and started out on 1 November, 1911, but was trimmed down to five men with sleds for the final push to the pole.

As this was a time when communications were primitive and both teams had started out for the Pole from different parts of the continent, neither knew how well or poorly the other was doing. It was a bleak landscape with nothing other than vast stretches of snow to see. Food was in short supply and breathing far from easy as the temperature dipped below zero time and again.

It was perhaps the greatest race in human history with two teams attempting to claim a prize without knowing where the other was, using different techniques. Scott’s team made it to the Pole after travelling through some very bad weather on 17 January 1912, only to find Nansen’s team’s tent there with a letter in it, announcing that the Norwegians had reached the Pole 35 days earlier. “The worst has happened,” a distraught Scott wrote in his diary, adding “Great God! This is an awful place.”

It was a place through which he and his teammates had however to trudge more than a thousand kilometres, pulling heavy sleds . As the weather worsened, they found themselves moving at a very slow pace and using up supplies much faster than they had planned. Their odds of surviving were reducing. One of the team members, Lawrence Oates, was so badly affected by frostbite that he could barely walk. Knowing that he was slowing down the team, he suddenly walked out of the tent on 16 March, telling his teammates, “I am just going outside and may be some time.” He would never return, having opted to sacrifice himself to give him team a better chance of survival.

His sacrifice would be in vain. On 19 March, Scott and his friends found themselves trapped in a snowstorm, still 11 miles from a depot that contained fuel and food. They tried to start out every day but were kept inside by roaring winds and as their food finished, they literally froze to death. On 29 March, Scott made the last entry in his diary: “Last entry. For God’s sake look after our people.” He is believed to have perished shortly thereafter, a mere eleven miles from safety. The weather was so bad that those of his team who were on the other part of the continent could not even form a rescue party to save him.

The bodies of Scott and his friends were discovered on 12 November 1912, when a team finally made it to their tent. It was more than a year since he had started out on the race that had claimed his life. There has been a lot of subsequent analysis of the tactics followed by Scott and Amundsen, with some blaming Scott for using too heavy sledges and others accusing Amundsen of being unfair by starting out early and using dogs, but the fact remains that the race to the Pole in Antarctica in 911-12 was one of the most dramatic – and tragic – journeys in the history.

Amundsen won in the end, but at a great cost. The world had lost a great explorer.

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Must visit websites Antarctic Explorers: Roald Amundsen http://www.south-pole.com/p0000101.htm Antarctic Explorers: Robert Falcon Scott http://www.south-pole.com/p0000089.htm Doomed Expedition to the South Pole http://www.eyewitnesstohistory.com/scott.htm

The Race to the South Pole http://www.nmm.ac.uk/explore/sea-and-ships/in-depth/race-to-south-pole/the-race-tothe-south-pole

A comparison of two expeditions http://library.thinkquest.org/26442/html/explore/comparison.html

Wiki: Comparison of Scott and Amundsen expeditions: http://wapedia.mobi/en/Comparison_of_the_Amundsen_and_Scott_Expeditions

Suggested Reading: Books • •

• • • •

Scott and Amundsen: The Last Place On Earth by Roland Hunstford The South Pole: An Account of the Norwegian Expedition in the Fram, 1910-1912 by Roald Amundsen Journals: Scott’s Last Expedition by Captain Robert Scott The Worst Journey in the World by Apsley Cherry-Garrard The Coldest March: Scott’s Fatal Antarctic Expedition by Susan Solomon Captain Scott by Sir Ranulph Fiennes

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PEEP PEEP DON’T SLEEP A book on funny road signs and advertisements with captions and commentary by Ajay Jain If you thought road signs are only meant to guide and inform, think again.

The ones on Indian highways are in a zone of their own. They shower you with words of wisdom, keep your mind sharp as you unravel their cryptic messages, tickle your imagination, amuse you and entertain you. In public interest, they lend a hand to Alcoholics Anonymous. Since journeys are meant to be a pleasure, they remind you to ‘Smile Please.’

The entertainment for the traveler does not stop at this. There are the limitless public notices, outdoor advertisements and storefront signs with their own idiosyncrasies and eccentricities. Who needs comic strips in this country?

Ajay Jain drove thousands of miles to put together this collection of signs. With a bit of witty commentary thrown in, this book will be a journey unlike any other you may have undertaken. Resulting in you letting out a ‘Peep Peep’ of delight.

For more on the book, sample chapters and to order visit www.peeppeepdontsleep.com Available as a Paperback, as a PDF and for the iPad and Kindle 36

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kunzum Travel Pix

We bring you engaging imagery from our travels - and a few are given here. Follow the series. The first six appeared in the December 2011 issue of the Kunzum Travel Mag.

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Postcards from Ladakh A Pictorial Travelogue by Ajay Jain

Postcards from Ladakh is a collection of frames - picture postcards, if you will - frozen circa 2009, when the author drove for over 10,000 kms (6,000 miles) across the remote and fascinating region of Ladakh in the Indian Himalayas.

Neither guidebook nor encyclopedia, it is intended to give you a flavour of this high altitude cold desert.

You will also meet a few Ladakhis in these pages. And see the land they live in, the faith they live by, the hope they live on‌Each of them will spontaneously greet you with a cheerful Julley and invite you to be part of their culture and society.

No Ladakhi is a stranger. We just haven’t had the time to meet them all...

For more on the book, sample chapters and to order visit www.kunzum.com/postcardsfromladakh Available as a Paperback, as a PDF and for the iPad and Kindle 66

Si n c e 2007, Kunzum has se rve d as an imp o rt a n t g u id e f o r t ra v e lle rs p la n n in g jo u r n e y s i n I n dia and the su b continent - and some in t e rn a t io n a l d e s t in a t io n s t o o .

I N TR ODUCTIONS FIRS T… Ku n zum is a high a ltitu d e pass in the L a h a u l S p it i re g io n o f Hima c h a l P ra d e s h in I n d i a .

An d the i nspi r ation b e h ind the b rand t h a t is a ll a b o u t me mo ra b le t ra v e l e x p e rie n c e s .

O u r j our ney starte d in 2007 a s a trave l b lo g b y writ e r a n d p h o t o g ra p h e r, A ja y J a i n . A n d w e h ave cr ossed ma n y milestones - lit e ra lly a n d f ig u ra t iv e ly - s in c e t h e n .

K U N ZUM .C OM An independent, objective and one of the most trusted online travel information websites in India. A unique style of writing, peppered with anecdotes and illustrated with high quality photographs and videos, have won the site a fan following of tens of thousands of travellers. More at http://kunzum.com.

TH E KUNZUM T RAV E L MAG A u n i q u e p r o d u c t , i t i s a m o n t h l y e - m a g a v a i l a b l e a s a P D F, f o r t h e i P a d a n d Kindle, and for online reading with flipping pages on Issuu.com. Subscription is FREE at http://kunzum.com/mag.

PU B LISH ING We publish engaging and quality travel books and guides in both traditional formats as well as e-books (for the iPad, Amazon’s Kindle, other mobile readers and all computers). More at http://kunzum.com/books.

C U R ATOR OF COLLE CTIBLE P HOTOG RAP HI C ART Available for your walls at home, office or resort and also as stock imagery for publishing and promotional materials. All printed on archival paper to last g e n e r a t i o n s . The prints a re a lso on d is p la y a t t h e K u n z u m Tra v e l Ca f é . Ch e c k t he c o l l ection at http://kunzu mgallery.co m.

K U N ZUM TR AVE L CAFÉ Another unique offering from Kunzum - a bricks and mortar place for the travel-minded to come together as a community, a sort of Face-to-Facebook network. Located in Hauz Khas Village in New Delhi, guests can hang around, read travel books, use free Wi-Fi, participate in events, exchange stories, enjoy music, buy photographic art, post travelogues and make travel plans. They can even order tea, coffee and cookies - and pay what they like. More at http://kunzum.com/travelcafe.

CONTACT US wetravel@kunzum.com | +91.9650702777 LINKS Online http://kunzum.com

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AB OUT AJAY JAIN Ajay Jain is a full time writer, journalist and photographer based in New Delhi in India. He is not limited in his medium of expression, equally comfor table writing for newspapers and magazines, as well as his own books and blogs.

Star ting his writing career in 2001, he has been covering business, technology and youth affairs before deciding to focus wholly on travel writing. He pursues his passion by being on the road as much as he can.

He has written three books, the latest being Postcards from Ladakh (http://www. kunzum.com/postcardsfromladakh), a pictorial travelogue on Ladakh. His first, Let ’s Connect: Using LinkedIn to Get Ahead at Work, is a management book on professional networking using the world’s most popular professional networking site LinkedIn.com. It was published in early 2008. His other book, and his first travel book, Peep Peep Don’t Sleep (http://www. peeppeepdontsleep.com), is a collection of funny road signs and adver tisements.

C on tac t

Email: ajay@ajayjain.com M o b i l e : + 91. 9 910 0 4 4 4 76

L I N KS Facebook

http://facebook.com/ajayjain9

Twitter

h t t p : / / t w i t t e r. c o m / a j a y j a i n

L i n ke d I n

h t t p : / / w w w. l i n ke d i n . c o m / i n / ajayjain9

He has worked for and written columns for national publications in India including The Hindustan Times, Mint, Fi n a n c i a l E x p r e s s , I n d i a n M a n a g e m e n t (Business Standard), Outlook Business, Deccan Herald, Mumbai Mirror ( Times of India), Discover India, Swagat, Asian A g e a n d R e d i f f. c o m . H e h a s a l s o e d i t e d a y o u t h n e w s p a p e r, T h e C a m p u s Pa p e r.

Prior to tak ing up writing, he has worked i n t h e I n f o r m a t i o n Te c h n o l o g y a n d S p o r t s Management sectors. He holds degrees Mechanical Engineering (Delhi College of Engineering, 1992), Management ( Fo r e S c h o o l o f M a n a g e m e n t , 1 9 9 4 ) a n d J o u r n a l i s m ( C a r d i f f U n i v e r s i t y, U K , 2 0 0 2 ) .

H i s s c h o o l i n g w a s a t S t . C o l u m b a’s S c h o o l in New Delhi.

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