Kunzum Travel Mag - November 2011

Issue 05 | November 2011

T R A V E L

M A G

postcards from

BIKANER

Where are you headed these winter holidays?

Are you busy planning your travels during the coming winters?

This is a time when we are all spoilt for choice.

A gorgeous world awaits. Even if it comes with a higher than usual price tag - hotel prices always go up during the winter break, especially between Christmas and the New Year. But don’t let this minor speed bump get in the way of your holiday.

contents 07 Bikaner, Rajasthan: An enchanting camel fair and lots more 18 Photo Feature: Hitting a Wall 30 Delhi

Purana Qila (Old Fort): Where emperors take fatal tumbles Khair-ul-Manazil Mosque: A gift from the nanny

37 Hotel Reviews

But are you scratching your head for ideas? Here are some I would stick my neck out and strongly recommend:

> Iora, The Retreat - Kaziranga, Assam > Fish Tail Lodge - Pokhara, Nepal

• Delhi: Who goes to Delhi for a holiday? If you have not considered it, do so now.

You will experience the best weather on the planet during the city’s winters. And there is so much here: history, events, food, shopping… enough to keep you busy for weeks.

42 Stuff

• Rajasthan: Always in vogue at this time of the year. Plan a circuit covering Shekhawati, Bikaner, Jaisalmer, Jodhpur, Osian, Bera, Pushkar, Udaipur and Jaipur.

You cannot go wrong here.

> The Wanderer’s Palate: A chick for every season > Sketch Feature - Switzerland > Book Review: Three Men in a Boat > The Handwritten Travelogue

• The Freezing Himalayas: Don’t let the cold and possible snow put you off. Go to Thaneder, Rishikesh, Mcleodganj and any number of hill stations where hotels are open for business. Think Srinagar - you will fall in love with someone when there.

• Nepal: This country is so beautiful and hospitable, it’s a pity why Indians have written it off. Go, go, go…

• The North-East: You have nothing to fear. Go to the wilds of Assam, meet the tribals of Arunachal Pradesh and Nagaland, go caving in Meghalaya, attend the many festivals in the region, or just drive around.

• Gujarat: Drive across the vast plains of the Rann, visit sites of ancient civilizations, go birding at the many sites, or hop on to jungle safaris in Gir and Velavadar.

• Down South: I have had limited exposure here, but visit lovely Coorg. Or keep driving along the Arabian Sea coastline and weave in and out of the Western Ghats.

A new discovery will await everyday.

Want more information on the above? Browse through www.kunzum.com - we have lots of stuff posted there. Or ping us on mail@kunzum.com - we will be happy to guide you.

We travel. What are you planning to do?

team kunzum

CTO (Chief Travelling Officer): Ajay Jain - He also hogs the driver’s seat

CEO (Chief Editorial Officer): Anubhuti Rana - Prefers being on the passenger seat on the highways

CSO (Chief Social Officer): Shruti Sharma

- Found on Facebook, Twitter, Kunzum Travel Café or trekking in the wild

CDO (Chief Design Officer): Faizan Patel

- Also Chief Desk Officer, that’s where he is stuck when others travel

Samridhi Minocha - A big welcome to our new team member

*Unless mentioned, all articles and photographs in this issue are by Ajay Jain

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kunzum travel mag (Previous Issues)

Missed the earlier issues of the Kunzum Travel Mag? No problem.

Download the same at http://kunzum.com/mag.

This is what we have covered:

Issue 1, July 2011 RAJASTHAN / RANTHAMBHORE: > Looking the tiger in the eye NAGALAND: Misty Mountain Top The re-discovery of NEPAL LADAKH: At the top of the world HIMACHAL PRADESH / LAHAUL SPITI > Kaza: Paradise is Here > Tabo, the Village of Cavemen and Lamas DELHI > Mehrauli Archaeological Park: Bet no one tells you this one > Hazrat Nizamuddin’s Dargah: Qawwalis, Fairs, Prayers, Shopping – It all happens here BOOKS: > 5 books to read about the 1996 Everest disaster

GUJARAT > Rani ki Vav in Patan: A Stepwell or a Work of Art? > The Sun Temple at Modhera JORDAN > Dead Sea: Try sinking in it, you cannot!

HOTEL REVIEWS > Swaswara in Gokarna, Karnataka Perfect to uplift your body, mind and soul > Banasura Island Retreat, Wayanad Kerala - What a perfect setting for a resort > Banjara Camps and Retreat, Sangla, Himachal Pradesh - Cannot Admire it Enough > Gir Birding Lodge, Sasan Gir, Gujarat They know the jungle!

Issue 2, aUGUST 2011 Assam: > Manas National Park: The Games Elephants Play Arunachal Pradesh: > Hello Ladies…of Arunachal Pradesh Himachal Pradesh Maharashtra: > The Matheran Light Railway: Go for a Joyride Uttarakhand > Kunzum Route K14 Delhi > If it’s Ramadan, you must be in Matia Mahal > Walk on the Northern Ridge: History in One Sweep

Rajasthan > Kuldhara, Jaisalmer: When the Paliwals Vanished into the Night > Bera: Welcome to Leopard Country - It is Wild and Free HOTEL REVIEWS > Banjara Retreat, Shoja > The Almond Villa, Srinagar > Rann Riders, Dasada, Rann of Kutch > Devra Homestay, Udaipur Stuff > Sketch Feature - Singapore > Photography: Don’t let the Camera go Dead on you > Book Review: Journey to the Center of the Earth

Issue 3, SEPTEMBER 2011 A Journey to Kashmir, on Kunzum Route K11 Delhi > Join the annual Dussehra Procession Safdarjung’s Tomb Tamil Nadu: The Niligiri Mountain Railway - A Toy Train you must Ride Rajasthan Jodhpur: Food, Bazaars, History - It all Happens Here

Hotel Reviews > Castle Bera, Bera, Rajasthan Rain Country Resorts > Wayanad, Kerala >The Blackbuck Lodge, Velavadar, Gujarat > Banjara Orchard Retreat, Thanedar, Himachal Pradesh Stuff > Travel Bites: Don’t be Jet-Lagged this Holiday Season > Sketch Feature - Malaysia > Book Review: River Dog

Issue 1, OCTOBER 2011 Postcards from Gujarat Himachal Pradesh Thanedar: The birthplace of apples in India Rajasthan Mount Abu: A quiet oasis in a desert state Delhi Chor Minar: Making an example of thieves Khooni Darwaza: The gate with a bloody history Kinari Bazaar: Where colours change with seasons

Jordan Wadi Rum: A vast, echoing and Godlike desert Hotel Reviews > Wild Grass Lodge, Kaziranga, Assam > Soulitude, Ramgarh, Uttarakhand Stuff > The Wanderer’s Palate: Elai Adai > Travel Bites > Sketch Feature - Kanha National Park > Book Review: Being a Scot > The Handwritten Travelogue

06

Bikaner

rajasthan

An enchanting camel fair and lots more

Think of camel fairs, and chances are you will head to Pushkar in Rajasthan. But hold on to your horses (or camels) for a moment - consider Bikaner, with its smaller yet far more enchanting version. And that is only one of the reasons why you need to be in this desert city.

The Fair First The festival is all about colours and music. The opening act itself is a parade by the royal guards mounted on richly decorated camels. These forces may only be symbolic now, but the riders still display the same pride as their predecessors may have when the elite camel corps, the Ganga Risala, existed and fought in the two World Wars.

Bravado out of the way, it is time to break into a song and a dance. Not that Rajasthanis need much of an excuse to do so. If Sartar Khan Lattah and party set the mood going with their folk music from Barmer, the likes of Sushil Mali brings his troupe to perform the Lal Angi Dandiya Gir Nritya dressed in all red. The only other time you would

see the latter is at the Sheetla Saptmi fair around Holi in March in West Rajasthan when 35-40 such groups come together to perform. Not to be left out, groups of eunuchs dressed in bright red, magenta and yellow join the party, performing dances including some mildly suggestive ones.

Camels are the real stars though, and they sure work hard for this occasion.

Their acrobatics and dances defy their unwieldy look. Strutting, rolling and raising themselves high on just their hind legs, they even pick up money and hold tea kettles in their mouths, offering it to guests of honour. Some even grip their owners’ necks by their teeth - but only gently. Wonder who is

smarter - the trainers or the animals?

There is more. Camels walk the ramp to decide whose coats are embroidered best by the artisans of Rajasthan.

Yes, the fur is cut to make beautiful patterns. A treat follows - in the form of camel milk fresh from the udders. Take a sip - its salty taste has to be acquired I am told. But locals and the scientists at Bikaner’s National Research Centre for Camels believe this milk is highly nutritious and therapeutic and can even cure diabetes.

Thereafter the action shifts to the village of Ladera for two magical days and nights. The setting is just perfect there: a huge sand bowl, clear skies, a 7

bright moon above and the entire area resonating with only the sounds of festivities. Far removed from the madding world we live in. Daytime sees sporty competitions including Gramin Kushti (rural wrestling), Kabaddi, dune racing, camel racing, Kho Kho and women’s musical chairs. And the way locals cheer and root for their favourites, you would think the world championships are at stake. Even contestants for the Mr. Bikaner and Ms. Bikana can be seen vying for the top spot.

“The night is getting cooler and cooler and the stage is getting hotter and

hotter,” announces the compere when the cultural programs start on stage after sunset. One is treated to the many different forms of Rajasthani folk culture including the Ghoomur dance. Don’t rush blindly to woo the beautiful dancing women - some of them are men!

of them even take in pieces of burning coal in their mouths letting out sparks.

All seemingly under a spell of the soft drug Bhaang made from the leaf of cannabis indica. Theories abound on how these dancers pull off this ‘trick,’ but does one care?

The thrills are complete.

The ‘hottest’ event is the fire dance.

Performed by members of the Siddh community, supposedly blessed with special powers by Lord Jasnath. They walk on a bed of burning wood and coal, and dance around the fire. A few

And what better way to round up the fun than with authentic Rajasthani food? Scrumptious thalis (big metial plates) of daal, baati, choorma and other traditional vegetables leaves you with no choice but to overeat.

Travel Tips for the Bikaner Fair There is no entry fee. Arrangements are made to transport visitors from Bikaner to Ladera (45 kms / 28 miles) by bus. You can stay in hotels in the city, or book tents pitched by organizers in Ladera. Book in advance - the festival falls during peak tourist season. Carry some warm clothes for the evening. For more information contact Hotel Dholamaru (A Rajasthan Tourism Development Corporation property) in Bikaner.

Eunuchs dancing at the festival. Most of them work as office boys in Government department and perform when called upon. The one in yellow, Sunil, is taking computer literacy classes.

8

A highly decorated camel participating in the acrobatics competition

A camel’s fur with an embroidered look for the fur cutting (called Baal Katra in local dialect) competition

Dancers at Ladera

Participants in the Mr. Bikaner competition 9

A foreign tourist trying a sip of freshly milked camel milk

Fire dancers from the Sidhh community walking over a bed of Towards the end of the fire dance, the dancers started to ‘splash’ the burning wood and coal on fire wood and coal with their feet all around causing the sparks to fly as seen here

Let’s talk shop Someone needs to send Wee Willie Winkie to put the people of Bikaner to bed on time. They simply don’t want to call it a day – keeping their bazaars bustling with activity till late into the night. Join the fun, stroll around and window shop. Don’t be surprised at barbers shaving men at ten in the night, or women trying out Kolhapuri juttis or traditional shoes.

Get bedazzled with rows of shops selling shining stainless steel utensils.

Pick up stone mortars and pestles in various shapes and sizes from roadside vendors, or buy lingerie from a shop called Shanti (meaning peace, wonder where?). Matching

Point will even match silken laces with lingerie.

You could take ailing pressure cookers, cooking gas stoves, blenders and lighters at the Pressure Cooker Hospital on a sidewalk. The proprietor will also exchange spoiled currency notes for a commission, or top up your mobile. Another peculiarity are shops branded with brotherly love. You have ‘Shop of Three Brothers,’ ‘Pandit Harprasad and Sons, Brothers’ Shop,’ ‘Two Brothers Garment’ and so on.

If you are planning to get married, there is all that a groom needs for his wedding day including make-up,

dresses on hire and garlands made of real currency notes. With Rabdi Band available to provide the music.

For serious shopping, you have big outlets like Maharaja Arts selling traditional Rajasthani bed linen, curtains, clothes, cushions, toys, decorations, replicas of antiques, bean bags and more. Bargain hard - don’t hesitate to offer 50 percent or lesser than the quoted price - you could land yourself a steal. A salesman offered me ‘Buy One, Get One Free’ bed cover. It was a reversible one, the other side being free. Very funny. I offered him Rs. 500, saying it is actually Rs. 1,000 if he counted both sides of the bill. Funny back!

Scenes from the Bazaars of Bikaner

Step out on an empty stomach Bikaner can get anorexics to start questioning their own resolve. The city is full of food, inviting you with, “Come, gorge!� Take your pick from kachoris, samosas, jalebis and ghevar straight from the frying wok. Or choose from all kinds of Indian sweets and savouries from menus that read more like encyclopedic compilations rather than the offering of a single eatery.

Bikaneri Bhujiya sure deserves it. A spicy crisp snack made of gramflour fried in different shapes, it is sold in shops bearing names like Bhikaram Chandmal, Shri Ganesh, Jai Ganesh etc.

Surprisingly, it is not that easy to find traditional Rajasthani dishes like daal, baati, choorma etc. - one has to go to Ladera during the Camel Fair to get the authentic stuff.

Recharge with munchies like dried fruits, groundnuts, chickpeas and chanas being sold wholesale. They may not have been awarded a Geographical Indicator (a kind of a patent linking a product category to its origin, like Champagne and Darjeeling Tea), but

Bikaner is also an important source of Mawa, a key milk ingredient for many Indian sweets. The Mawa Bazaar located just off the Banthiyon Ka Chowk is the biggest wholesale market for Mawa in Rajasthan after Dholpur according to Laxmi Narayan Raj Purohit,

one of the vendors. Made from cow milk around Bikaner, and buffalo milk around Dholpur, villagers make these at home and supply all over North India.

Many a shop sell all kinds of local medicines made from herbs, roots and other ayurvedic formulae.

Promising to cure you of virtually everything including obesity, gas, asthma, heart ailments, piles, blood pressure and any orthopedic problems. Some even claim to have received awards from the President of India for their work. If you get sick of eating all the sumptuous Bikaneri food, you know where to head to.

Eating out in Bikaner

26

The Junagarh Fort Why would you bury a man (by himself) alive in the foundations of a fort or within one of the turrets (on horseback) if he had done nothing wrong to deserve the fate?

It was considered auspicious and guaranteed invincibility to the fort, or so go the legends. If true, it seemed to have worked for the Junagarh Fort in Bikaner, with its impressive record of never having been conquered. If you go digging in the foundations west of the fort, where a temple of Bhomiaji stands, you may find the fossils of a man who volunteered to be buried alive. It was a matter of Rajput pride to give up your life for this ‘cause,’ with the family being rewarded with land and money.

The fort, originally called Chintamani Durg, was built by Raja Rai Singh; work started on January 30, 1586 and finished in 1594. For three centuries after this, the rulers engaged in about nine battles with their cousins from Jodhpur state. A dispute between the two sides had been simmering since around 1491 when some family heirlooms, the Rathore symbols of power, were given away by Rao Jodha (founder of Jodhpur) to his son Rao Bika who founded Bikaner in 1465.

Descendants of the latter always emerged victorious, and these heirlooms remain safe in Bikaner till date under the care of the Rao Bikaji Maharaja of Bikaner’s Heirloom, Insignias and Farmans Private Trust. One of these, a sandalwood throne dating back to 1212 is on display at the fort.

Bikaner did not have a hill to build a fort on for greater security, but its design still gives it an imposing stature.

Every generation following the founder made additions and alterations to the fort, but the surrounding moat always remained a dry one. A walk through the fort makes for fascinating sights:

Imprints of hands of Satis: The period around 1200 1600 A.D. was a dark one for Rajput women in Rajasthan. Widows had

Entry to the Junagarh Fort

either to lead lives of outcasts or in confinement, or were expected to immolate themselves on the funeral pyre of their husbands. This act of committing Sati was preferred by women whose indoctrination since childhood taught them life without their husband was not worth living. As you enter the fort, you will see imprints of the hands of some of the women who committed Sati. The ones in marble are those of the last Sati - Kanwarani Deep Kanwar, wife of Maharaja Kumar Moti

Singh on October 30, 1825, before the British outlawed this practice. Records show Rao Bika had eight Satis, with the largest entourage of 35 immolating themselves with Maharaja Zorawar Singh. Royalty at the time had many wives, mistresses and concubines and all often committed Sati, sometimes with maids and other female staff of the queens. In an unusual case, Sangram Singh Mandlawat, a faithful manservant of Maharaja Raj Singh, committed Sato.

13

Imprints of hands of Satis

A Hidden Treasure: Cross the Suraj Prole (Sun Gate) and pause on the ramp or Khurra - it is believed Raja Rai Singh buried a treasure of gold and jewels under it for an emergency. All royal establishments are rife with such legends - should keep Indiana Jones busy for a long time.

And the lights come on: In a visionary move much ahead of its time, Maharaja Dungar Singh engaged an English engineer Mr. Robinson to install electric power in the fort.

And when the switch was flicked on, onlookers were left dazzled with powerful lamps and arc lights coming alive simultaneously, illuminating the whole fort. In 1914, Maharaja Ganga Singh installed the first elevator, imported from England, in Rajasthan.

The Armoury: You cannot but help get impressed with the collection of arms, one of the finest in any fort in India. Swords, knives, daggers, shields, maces, armours, bows and arrows and guns used over the centuries are all on a well curated display. You will also see a World War I DH9-DE Haviland fighter plane. Actually, the British presented Maharaja Ganga Singh parts of two such shot down planes as souvenirs in return for combat services rendered during the war. Around 1985, Maharaja Karni Singh engaged craftsmen to take parts from both and put together one replica of the original. There is a stand with swords placed horizontally in it; 14

The armoury

the sharp edges face upwards and members of the Siddh community would perform stunts by walking on these. They do similar stuff on beds of nails and burning coal. Don’t try it!

You need to spend at least a full day in this fort to really appreciate all that is on display. You have a collection of palanquins used by

the royal ladies for transportation.

The fort is dotted with temples, some open to public and others only for the royal family. The Badal Mahal or Cloud Palace has a blue ceiling with clouds and lightening painted on it - to give a feeling of coolness in the harsh, dry desert region. The Chini Burj has tiles made in China for the European

In earlier times, entertainers would stand and walk on these sharp edged swords. Ouch!

market - the earliest sign of foreign influence in the interiors.

One of the rooms has a 65 kilo silver door leading to it. A silver throne stands in the Karan Mahal and was used for ceremonial purposes. A swing known as Krishna Jhoola is used during Janmashtami to celebrate the birth of the Hindu God Krishna.

The World War I DH9-DE Haviland fighter plane

The beds for kings are interesting.

Paranoid of being attacked even while asleep, these were made low to ensure no conspirators could hide underneath.

The beds were shorter than the body

so the feet are on the floor; should someone tie the king in his sleep, he could still stand up with the bed on his back and put up a fight. Question: If someone got so far as to tie the king,

A Palanquin

wouldn’t they have incapacitated him to fight at all? If yes, at least the king could have ordered more comfortable beds to sleep while he still could.

Tiles from China

Useful Travel Info for Junagarh Fort

• Timings 10:00 a.m. - 5:00 p.m.

• Guides are included in entry ticket. Audio guides are available at an extra charge. A sign reads, ‘Guides are paid servants of the trust.’

• Entry Fee: Indians - Rs. 20; Students and Children - Rs. 10; Foreigners - Rs. 150 • Camera fee: Still - Rs. 30; Video - Rs. 100 • There are separate cloak rooms and ticket counters for Indians and foreigners.

• ‘Luggage and pet dogs not allowed in the palaces’ reads a sign.

• The Prachin Café inside the fort serves Indian and Chinese cuisines besides sandwiches and beverages.

Bikaner: Travel Tips

• Weather: Mild winters and very hot summers.

• Best time to go: October to February.

• How to reach: By road or train. Nearest airports are at Jaipur and Jodhpur.

• Recommended Stay: At least 3 days.

• While you are there: Visit the Karni Mata Temple at Deshnoke (30 kms / 19 miles) away. Or spend a night at the Gajner Palace heritage hotel (32 kms / 20 miles away) with its artificial lake and beautiful surroundings; the royalty hosted wildlife shooting parties here at one time. Also check out the Lallgarh Palace in town made of pink-red sandstone. Built by Maharaja Ganga Singh in 1902 as modern quarters for the royal family, it houses a museum and a hotel, the Laxmi Niwas Palace. Scout the inner lanes of Bikaner to see some old Havelis or mansions built by businessmen; the Bhanwar Niwas is one that has been converted into a muststay hotel.

• Combine trip with: Jaisalmer and Shekhawati.

PHOTO ESSAY

Hitting a Wall

The blue colour of this village house in Nepal caught my attention - as did the logs used for curing honey in some way I could not quite comprehend. The green window with protective iron rods added to the imagery.

A

s a travel photographer, my audience have many different expectations from me. Some want stunning landscapes, others want portraits or cultural expositions.

There will be those who want me to post historical essays, with another set wanting an adrenalin high with images from the wild. I capture all these images - but the real joy comes when I manage to spring a surprise.

You can do this by presenting a rare sight. Or with something that is always around travellers but they are blinded to it.

One such theme are walls. And doors, windows and locks. All you need to do is stop and observe ordinary houses, 18

shops and buildings - and you will find yourself looking at works of art. Just the blue of a village house, or the rustiness of an old lock can make you whistle a ‘wow.’ You will pass these often and yet not see them in a creative light.

And I am not even talking about stuff that has been commissioned to artists.

These are everyday structures, where the owners just picked on a colour or a pattern to their liking. “The neighbour chose green, so I will go for yellow” kind of a thinking. Or someone may be using locks going back a hundred years, and happy because no one could pick them yet.

The aesthetic could be enhanced when ever changing patterns are

formed by objects - like a broom adding a different character when resting against an otherwise blank wall. Some variations may emerge naturally, say, in the form of roots or anthills growing against walls. Any such variable has the ability to transform an otherwise ordinary background into something eye-catching.

Once I noticed some of these wonderful works of art, I cannot help looking out for more of these whenever on the go. And one does not need to travel far - your neighbour’s window may qualify without the owner realizing so.

Go, face a wall or a door. It is a kaleidoscopic world out there.

I noticed this wall in a house in Tansen in Nepal. While the colours were appealing, the shiny utensils drying in the sun with a broom lying alongside added new dimensions to it.

You will see this sight only on Sundays in Darya Ganj in old Delhi - the regular market is closed on this day enabling a used book market to come up on its pavements for the day. Also on sale are old movie posters.

These roots growing into a crumbling wall with the statue of the Hindu God Ganesha in Shekhawati in Rajasthan are usually ignored as a junk spot by all - but it gave me one of the most admired photos in my collection 19

Three locks to secure a blue door - what was stored within?

The way you lock your premises says a lot about the society you live in. I captured this set of locks and more in Shekhawati in Rajasthan. I was out early morning looking for subjects to click when some shop doors caught my attention. One usually does not see

these as they are open all day - but not at that hour. The locks themselves, the bolts, and the colours of the walls and doors were all arresting. And then I started clicking them - arousing much curiosity amongst the few locals up and about. Some started following

me, asking why I was taking photos of locks when there were castles and frescos that tourists came for.

A theory started doing the rounds amongst them: With these photos I could possibly make keys to break in later. If only it was so simple.

The pink door and the pattern formed by the bolt, chain and locks caught my attention

An old fashioned lock still good enough to keep the premises safe

The yellow with the Coke Red and Pepsi Blue made for quite a noticeable colour scheme

Another old fashioned way of locking the door, with the green wall and the rusty brown wooden door making a nice contrast

These frescos in a haveli in Shekhawati in Rajasthan, beautiful by themselves, were further enhanced by the blue windows

These wooden birds in a haveli (old bungalow) with wooden patterns sure enhanced the entrance in Shekhawati in Rajasthan

A naturally orange backdrop for the ear cleaner in old Delhi

An old lock in a traditional wooden house in Batseri village in Sangla Valley in Himachal Pradesh

This is the ceiling of the entrance chamber to a Buddhist temple in the UNESCO World Heritage site of Patan in Kathmandu in Nepal. Most photographers would give it a cursory look and move on to shoot the temple - but I saw it differently.

One of my bestselling images - a kite shop at dusk in Rajasthan. This was taken a few days before the kite flying festival of Makar Sakranti in January

Feel the wind. Explore. Ride away.

On a 500 cc motorbike.

There may be no better way to see India.

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But we all need mentors to make it happen. The Kunzum Media Lab can play that role. With our unique approach to teaching you the art of photography.

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Delhi

Purana Qila (Old Fort) Where Emperors take Fatal Tumbles Qila-i-Kuhna Mosque

T

hree different rulers (one mythological, two real) zeroed in on the site of the present day Purana Qila (Old Fort) as their seat of power – and somehow none survived long enough to really enjoy the fruits of their labour.

The legendary Pandavas of the Mahabharata fame are believed to have established the kingdom of Indraprastha here tens of thousands of moons ago. It is sometimes referred to as the first city of Delhi. But there is no evidence to support this claim – and so far, thankfully, the far right Hindus have not dug up the Purana Qila yet to provide some. Many still refer to the citadel as Pandavon ka Qila (the fort of the Pandavas). If this were so, it would be the longest surviving man-made structure in history. In earlier times, houses were made of mud and palaces of wood – even if the Pandavas ruled from here, no structures would have survived till now. The earliest proof of 30

human settlement are archaeological excavations going back to the 4th century A.D. Gupta period.

The first recorded foundations were laid by the second Mughal emperor Humayun in 1533 who called his new city Dinpanah (Refuge of the Faithful).

But after Sher Shah Suri ousted Humayun in 1538, he demolished the earlier structure and built a new fort called Sher Garh and the city around it, Sher Shani. This was the sixth city of Delhi. Humayun came back to power in 1555 after defeating Sher Shah’s weak successors, and started building upon what was already there. The name Old Fort came about when Shahjahan, who also built the Taj Mahal, made the Red Fort (the new fort, and thus the other one became old) in 1648 and established the city of Shahjahanabad (referred to as Old Delhi now). Funnily, during British times, Old Delhi was referred to as Mehrauli (in south Delhi now); but when Lutyens started work

on New Delhi (central Delhi currently), Shahjahanabad became Old Delhi. The Parliamentary constituency of central Delhi is called New Delhi – confusing for many as New Delhi actually covers a much bigger area as far as postal addresses go (when a postal address reads only Delhi, and not New Delhi, it refers to Old Delhi; both Old and New Delhis are contiguous areas). We could go on adding to the confusion but let’s go back in time first.

The fort itself has three main gates: the western Bara (Big) Darwaza (Gate) on the Mathura Road is where one enters from. The one to the south is called Humayun Darwaza, while the northern one is called Talaqi (Foridden) Darwaza and lies locked since time immemorial. According to legend, some king ordered it shut when he went to battle with orders to open it only when he returned victorious. Apparently he never returned; if the story is true, the king

may have been Sher Shah Suri who was killed in 1545.

The compound inside is quite extensive, with well maintained lawns (the Mughal Emperors would have approved of this for they loved their gardens). Few structures remain though. The most striking is the Qilai-Kuhna Mosque built by Sher Shah in 1541 with its five-arched entrance. The use of different coloured stones (red

sandstone and white, black and grey marble) along with the carvings and inlay work make it one of the beautiful mosques in the city. A tank in front was used for ablution before prayers. A deep step-well was also constructed to ensure water supply.

Nearby is an octagonal structure called the Sher Mandal – its infamy overshadows its architecture. Sher Shah might have built it as a pleasure

Entry to the Old Fort

chamber but Humayun converted it into his library. Coming down the steps one fateful afternoon in 1556, he heard the call to prayer. While attempting to kneel down immediately, he tripped on his robe and tumbled to his death. He did not enjoy the return to power for even a year.

A word of advice: Do not wear a robe whilst snooping around the steps of the Sher Mandal.

The Sher Mandal

Metro: Pragati Maidan, but a 15-20 minute walk from there 31

Camp Pinewood Trails is set in the heart of Himachal Pradesh and 30 minutes drive from a small town Kandaghat on the Chail Road, Camp Pinewood Trails is surrounded by lush cedar forests. It offers unlimited options for hikes along meandering hilly trek routes. A short trek above the camp is yet another rejuvenating experience with magnificent views to greet you. Softer options are a quiet relaxing stroll around the campsite and cosy naps under the sun. Whatever you choose its bound to be memorable and invigorating.

Location: Situated in the valley at Sadhupul, 12 kms away from Kandaghat on the KandaghatChail road, 17 kms before Chail in Himachal Pradesh. Its well laid-out, safe, healthy and easily accessible.

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• Accommodation and facilities: We have a Cluster of Fifteen 12’ x 12’ size, sturdy tents with ground bedding and sleeping bags, Bathing/washing and toilet facilities (Western), and an open dining space.

Activities: • Adventure Activities: Rappelling, Commando Net, Burma Bridge, Flying Fox, Tyrolean Traverse, Bridge slithering, Double rope bridge.

• Games: Volleyball, Badminton, Carom, and Chess.

• Trekking • Bird watching • Bonfire with loads of games, singing and interactive fun.

Address: 110, Aamrpali Apartments, Plot no-56, I.P. Extension, Patpar Ganj, Delhi -110092 Mobile: 9811213026/9873411989 Email: jeffrey@pinewoodtrails.com, alex@pinewoodtrails.com Website: http://pinewoodtrails.com/contactus.html

DELHI

Khair-ul-Manazil Mosque A Gift from the Nanny

I

t is one of the best preserved and finest mosques in Delhi, but lies largely ignored except by the devout who come here to offer prayers. Or by young boys who like to play cops and robbers amongst its ruins (at least the author did, while he was staying in Kaka Nagar in the late 1970s / early 1980s across the road).

death of his father, Humayun in 1556.

Interestingly, Khair-ul-Manazil is also a chronogram; when the letters of its name are written in the Persian script, you get the numerical value of its year of construction i.e. 969 Hijri or A.D. 1561-62 (according to a sign put up by the ASI). It is located across the road from the Purana Qila (Old Fort).

Khair-ul-Manazil, meaning ‘the most auspicious of houses’ or the ‘best of houses,’ was commissioned as a mosque and madrasa (an educational institution) by Mahan Angah, wet nurse to Emperor Akbar. She was politically very influential when Akbar was still a boy king after the untimely

You will see a hauz (tank) and a well as you enter the main courtyard which are used for ablution before the prayers.

Rooms built along three walls were used for the madrasa. The mehrab (prayer wall) on the fourth faces Mecca to the west; it is decorated stucco and glazed tiles in different colours. Next to

the mosque is the grand Lal Darwaza (Red Gate) or Sher Shah Gate, which is believed to have been the southern gateway to Sher Shah’s city.

An unconfirmed story: On his way back from a hunting trip, emperor Akbar visited the Nizamuddin mosque and then came to the Khair-ul-Manazil.

A slave of his late father, emperor Humayun, attempted to assassinate Akbar but his arrow missed and killed a bodyguard. The emperor’s short height may have worked to his advantage.

When you go visiting, and see any boys playing cops and robbers, try to enlist the former to provide a security cordon.

Translation of inscription over the central arch of the prayer chamber In the time of Jalal-ud-din Muhammad who is the greatest (Akbar) of just kings When Maham Begh, the protection of chastity, erected this building for the virtuous Shihabuddin Ahmad Khan, the generous, assisted in the erection of this good house.

How blessed is this building that its chronogram is ‘best of houses.’

- Composed by Niyaz Baksh, under the supervision of Darwesh Husain 33

A Division of AsiAn ADventures T: +91-11-44128785, M: +91-9811704651, E: wildindiatours@vsnl.com, W: www.asianadventures.net

We travel.

And come back with stories and images.

And we put all these great holiday ideas as the

travel list

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ttrra v isssttt l eeee vvv le llllllll ttrraaaa ii i v i sstt t r ajaajajay yay jain jain yjain jain jain ay ja aj a

The Kunzum Travel List is a compilation of great holiday ideas for you to choose from. From all across India, Nepal and the rest of the subcontinent.

Holidays you will cherish, and remember for a lifetime. Something you will share with others and evoke envy - prompting friends to ask you more so they too can head out on the same path. All put together in the form of books for you.

Want to have a great time travelling? Visit http://kunzum.com/travellist The Kunzum Travel List is currently available as an e-book in PDF format and for the iPad and Kindle.

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HOTEL REVIEW

Iora, The Retreat

Kaziranga National Park, Assam

I

f you are looking for modern comforts when visiting the Kaziranga National Park, Iora is the place you should choose to stay. The property has all the comforts you can ask for, with high quality furnishings, satellite TV, a fully functional restaurant and more.

The problem is the property could be anywhere in the world; it has little to show that it is at the world heritage site of Kaziranga National Park. Go there if you want plush accommodation between your jungle safaris.

Contact Bogorijuri, Kohora Kaziranga National Park, Assam - 785109 Tel:+91.3776.262411 / 262412 / 262437, +91.9957193550, Fax: +91.3776.262418 E-mail: iora@kazirangasafari.com Website: www.kazirangasafari.com

• Service: Good service. Housekeeping does their job well, you are well served at the restaurant and the guest relations staff is very courteous and helpful.

• Rooms: Different categories of rooms with clean, good quality furniture, sheets and towels. Air-conditioning in all rooms for the summer months. Bathrooms have running hot and cold showers. You have satellite television offering a wide variety of channels. Rooms have nice sit-outs for morning and evening tea, or to soak in the sun. You have rooms of different categories going up to suites.

• Location: Very good location, near the entrance to two of the main zones of the park.

• Amenities: You have Wi-Fi internet but it is erratic and works best in the lobby area. There is a swimming pool too.

• Food Quality: Quite nice food.

With a vast selection of cuisines including local.

• Tariffs: Rs. 3,300 - Rs. 12,000

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fo r jo ’s tr a v e ll e rs y a d to g n o s ir e a m g u la ri ty a g ro w in g d e to g in d w a y fr o m re n a o k p a s re Re b a d e e enever you n th e m a p , w h

u rn e y s b e y o

nd

Short and intense, our breakaways get you under the skin of experiences, because travel today is no longer about transporting people to someplace else.

Need a breakaway ? Experiences which you can leisurely unpack over a lifetime ?

Embark, from wherever you are.

http://www.break-away.in/ www.facebook.com/breakaway.in Call us today at +91 9818845999 or email us at : yourbreakaway@break-away.in 41

HOTEL REVIEW

Fish Fish Tail Tail Lodge Lodge

Pokhara, Nepal

F

ew properties in the world can match the setting of Fish Tail Lodge in Pokhara in Nepal. With the Fewa Tal (lake) on one side, and a forest cover on the other, it is an island of delight. Accentuated with the imposing Machhapuchre (Fish Tail) peak almost at touching distance towering over it.

You get to the property in square boats, more like covered rafts, that move by pulling in a rope tied to the opposite bank. Once there, you can make it a base for the many activities and attractions offered by Pokhara – or just stay put for an idyllic, romantic break.

It is the place where royalty, film stars and other famous people stay when they visit Pokhara – not surprising since the owners have been related to the erstwhile royal families of Nepal. Even if this were not the case, many a guest may still have chosen this as the place to stay.

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• Service: Excellent. Staff is very courteous, and takes good care of the property and its guests.

• Rooms: Clean, bright with modern fittings. While these are very comfortable, I would have preferred a look that blended better with the surroundings and the culture of Nepal.

• Location: Does not get better. In the middle of a lake with forest and high mountain peaks all around.

• Attractions: Besides the landscape around, the property itself has a wide variety of trees, flowers and other plants

in well landscaped lawns. And you wake up in the morning to the chirping of hundreds of birds, all very soothing for the soul and the mind.

• Food Quality: Very average. Both the breakfast and the dinner were nothing to write home about – a pity for a property of such high rating.

Tariff (subject to change) • Single, Garden Terrace (standard), US$ 140, Palm Court (deluxe), US$ 160 • Double, Garden Terrace (standard), US$ 150, Palm Court (deluxe), US$ 170 • Extra Bed, US$ 45 Contact Address: P.O. Box 10, Pokhara, Nepal Tel: +977.61.465071/460248/460258 Fax: +977.61.465072 E-mail: info@fishtail-lodge.com.np Website: http://www.fishtail-lodge.com

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The Wanderer’s Palate

A chick for every season!!

By Meena Vaidyanathan

I’ve eaten chickpeas (garbanzo beans, as some know it better) all my life. And I had no particular love or hate for this lentil, until I heard this story. Legend has it that when Aurangzeb imprisoned his father, Emperor Shah Jehan, for nearly eight years, he offered him, rather benevolently, that he would allow him to choose one dish of his choice that he could have everyday; at all other times,

he would have to make to do with the meager prison food.

The cook, taking pity on the Emperor’s condition told him to choose the ‘chickpea’ and he promised him that he would make him a new dish out of the lowly lentil every single day. 365 dishes using the chickpea!!! Sounds amazing, coarsely ground black pepper 2 green chillies finely chopped (those who have a low threshold for chillies like me, may de-seed the chilles, but 2 chillies are needed for the flavor), along with finely chopped coriander Salt to taste

The traditional recipe Ingredients 1 cup of boiled chickpeas (a cup of leftover “chole” or even humus can be used instead of freshly boiled chickpeas) 1 cup of bread crumbs (for those who are lazy like me can also use fresh bread loosely crumbled!)

1 teaspoon each of cumin seeds, chaat masala (can also use garam masala if you don’t have chaat masala), caraway seeds (optional), coriander powder and

Procedure Blend all ingredients together. Add more bread if needed and keep kneading until it comes to a consistency that allows you to make small cutlets out of the mixture. Shallow or deep fry (as you prefer…shallow frying gives it a melting taste but takes longer to cook, while deep fried “kebabs” are crispier and faster to cook). Bingo! Chickpea kebabs are ready to serve. They taste divine with mint chutney, but in a hurry, the good old tomato ketchup also serves

and frankly a bit unbelievable!

But I have read about this legend in enough places over many years and tried many recipes using this amazing little protein ball to come to believe that Emperor Shah Jehan made the right choice after all! Try this instant kebab recipe and give your feedback whether you agree with me (and the Emperor!) or not! as a good substitute! Sometimes, when I am feeling adventurous, I also add a fistful of soaked soyabean nuggets into the mixture, and the kebabs get a distinct flavor and crispiness.

The Arabs used to extol the virtues of chickpeas for their aphrodisiacal properties and used to consume a fair amount especially while travelling as they believed it enhances their energy levels. I don’t know if this chickpea kebab recipe will er… influence your energy levels, but it is sure to satisfy your gastronomic urges!

I can visualize Emperor Shah Jehan savouring these yummy chickpea kebabs while gazing into the Taj Mahal from his prison window longingly! Can you?

Got more queries? Send them across to Meena at meena.vaidyanathan@gmail.com.

You may also follow Meena’s blog, www.lifeintwohours.com.

Viswaprasad Raju is a Hyderabad-based advertising professional, and is also a random sketchcrawler, a weekly cartoonist and an occasional travel writer. He collects cheap souvenirs like coasters and dreams of expensive holiday breaks to a National Park (any state) or anywhere in Europe (any country). Presently he is working on a screenplay for a feature film.

Connect with him at viswaprasadraju@gmail.com or find him at http://facebook.com/viswaprasadraju and http://hyderabadadvtg.blogspot.com.

BOOK REVIEW

Three Men in a Boat If only all travel books were written like this…

By Nimish Dubey

There are travel books that tell you about how people went about a particular journey. There are those that tell you about places that people visited. Of the people they met. Of the food they ate. And so forth. And there are a few rare ones do all of this and leave you breathless with laughter while doing so.

Jerome K Jerome’s Three Men in a Boat is a book that falls in this rare, last category.

It not only tells you about the trip that three friends – and their dog – undertook on the Thames between Kingston and Oxford, but tells it with so much humour that there are many (and Jawaharlal Nehru is one of them) who remember the book mainly for its good humour and cheery tone.

and wit aplenty. There are hilarious accounts of how the threesome tried to pitch tent on the riverside, of the visits they paid to the local inns (yes, there is the famous incident of a fish on display that everyone claims to have caught – only for it to turn out to be an artificial one) and of course, all the people they meet, pleasant and otherwise. In spite of being

the perils of camping out under the open sky:

Three Men in a Boat starts off with three friends, J (the author), George and William Samuel Harris being bored to death and wondering what to do.

Harris suggests a sea cruise but this is converted to a cruise on the Thames (after some very interesting descriptions of the perils of travelling on the sea). As Jerome points out, the vote for the cruise stood at three to one – the only voice of dissent coming from Montmorency, the author’s dog who rather plainitively (but silently) complains: “There’s nothing for me to do. Scenery is not in my line, and I don’t smoke. If I see a rat, you won’t stop; and if I go to sleep, you get fooling about with the boat, and slop me overboard. If you ask me, I call the whole thing bally foolishness.”

the best of friends, J, George and Harris seldom agree about things, and as none of them consider the others’ opinions to be worth much (“That’s Harris all over – so ready to take the burden of everything himself, and put it on the backs of other people,” remarks J in an aside to the reader), this results in a number of very interesting arguments that more often than not have disastrous consequences, including a near fatal attempt to open – yes – a tin of pineapple!

Sounds familiar, does it not? And yet it is narrated with such skill that you will be hard pressed to keep a straight face while reading it. Three Men in a Boat is a slim volume by most standards but seldom have so few pages given so many people so many reasons to laugh. Read this book. Not just if you like travel, but if you like to be entertained. Or just feel better.

Needless to say, poor Montmorency is overruled and millions of readers, even dog lovers, are glad that he was. For, what follows is without doubt one of the greatest tales in the history of travel literature, replete with action, sarcasm

And even while all this is happening, the English landscape is described in loving and affectionate (if occasionally ironic) detail. There are also genuine pearls of travel wisdom sown for the reader. For instance, hark to what is written about

Buy it. Or if you prefer to get your laughs without paying a penny, download it for free from http://www.gutenberg.org/ ebooks/308. After all, the best things in life, and even in travel literature, are free.

Well, sometimes…

“Camping out in rainy weather is not pleasant.

It is evening. You are wet through, and there is a good two inches of water in the boat, and all the things are damp.

You find a place on the banks that is not quite so puddly as other places you have seen, and you land and lug out the tent, and two of you proceed to fix it. It is soaked and heavy, and it flops about, and tumbles down on you, and clings round your head and makes you mad. The rain is pouring steadily down all the time. It is difficult enough to fix a tent in dry weather: in wet, the task becomes herculean. Instead of helping you, it seems to you that the other man is simply playing the fool. Just as you get your side beautifully fixed, he gives it a hoist from his end, and spoils it all.”

Laughter is, after all, the best medicine.

And not just for travellers.

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PHEW!

Finally a place for travellers to meet.

In the real world - not on social media.

To simply bum around. Exchange travel stories. Make travel plans.

Read up & buy travel books. Post travelogues, images & videos. pick up photographic art. Even write books.

Over coffee and cookies. And free Wi-Fi. Only at the

Travel Cafe

address: T-49, GF, Hauz Khas Village, New Delhi 110 016, India telephone: +91.11.2651 3949 | +91.9650 702 777 | website: http://kunzum.com/travelcafe | mail@kunzum.com Open Tuesday - Sunday, 11:00 a.m. - 7:30 p.m. (Mondays Closed)

Travel Cafe

When travellers come calling at the Kunzum Travel Cafe, they often leave a note behind for us. Here are some from the wall. Come over for coffee, and write one too.

The Handwritten Travelogue We love to hear travel stories from our guests when they visit the Kunzum Travel Cafe in New Delhi. Better still, we like them to write the same in our scrapbook for others to read - like what you see here. Do you have one to share too? We are waiting...

The stunning Common Rosefinch (Carpodacus erythrinus) is a breeding visitor to Sikkim and Arunachal Pradesh and can be seen on mulberry trees Š Rajat Bhargava/WWF-india

You don’t like ugly paan stains; neither does nature The Green Hiker Campaign is a part of WWF's initiative to conserve Himalayan high altitude wetlands. The Ministry of Tourism, Government of India is a partner to the campaign. greenhiker@wwfindia.net www.wwfindia.org/greenhiker

PEEP PEEP DON’T SLEEP A book on funny road signs and advertisements with captions and commentary by Ajay Jain If you thought road signs are only meant to guide and inform, think again.

The ones on Indian highways are in a zone of their own. They shower you with words of wisdom, keep your mind sharp as you unravel their cryptic messages, tickle your imagination, amuse you and entertain you. In public interest, they lend a hand to Alcoholics Anonymous. Since journeys are meant to be a pleasure, they remind you to ‘Smile Please.’

The entertainment for the traveler does not stop at this. There are the limitless public notices, outdoor advertisements and storefront signs with their own idiosyncrasies and eccentricities. Who needs comic strips in this country?

Ajay Jain drove thousands of miles to put together this collection of signs. With a bit of witty commentary thrown in, this book will be a journey unlike any other you may have undertaken. Resulting in you letting out a ‘Peep Peep’ of delight.

For more on the book, sample chapters and to order visit www.peeppeepdontsleep.com Available as a Paperback, as a PDF and for the iPad and Kindle 36

Postcards from Ladakh A Pictorial Travelogue by Ajay Jain

Postcards from Ladakh is a collection of frames - picture postcards, if you will - frozen circa 2009, when the author drove for over 10,000 kms (6,000 miles) across the remote and fascinating region of Ladakh in the Indian Himalayas.

Neither guidebook nor encyclopedia, it is intended to give you a flavour of this high altitude cold desert.

You will also meet a few Ladakhis in these pages. And see the land they live in, the faith they live by, the hope they live on‌Each of them will spontaneously greet you with a cheerful Julley and invite you to be part of their culture and society.

No Ladakhi is a stranger. We just haven’t had the time to meet them all...

For more on the book, sample chapters and to order visit www.kunzum.com/postcardsfromladakh Available as a Paperback, as a PDF and for the iPad and Kindle

A picture may be worth a thousand words But the Kunzum PhotoTalkies are a journey in themselves

What are PhotoTalkies?

Simply put, these are photo essays - only packing a bigger punch. With more images and supporting text than an essay you would see in a newspaper or a magazine. Current versions have been designed as a PDF - to be viewed on any device supporting this format. But it is best seen on an iPad. And these are all FREE! Looks like it is the season of freebies from Kunzum. http://kunzum.com/phototalkies

S i n c e 2007, Kunzum has served as an i m p o r t a n t g u i d e f o r t r a v e l l e r s p l a n n i n g j o u r n e y s i n I n dia and the subcontinent - and so m e i n t e r n a t i o n a l d e s t i n a t i o n s t o o .

INTROD UCTIONS FIRST …

K u n zum is a high altitude pass in the L a h a u l S p i t i r e g i o n o f H i m a c h a l P r a d e s h i n I n d i a .

A n d the inspiration behind the brand t h a t i s a l l a b o u t m e m o r a b l e t r a v e l e x p e r i e n c e s .

O u r journey started in 2007 as a trave l b l o g b y w r i t e r a n d p h o t o g r a p h e r, A j a y J a i n . A n d w e h ave crossed many milestones - li t e r a l l y a n d f i g u r a t i v e l y - s i n c e t h e n .

K U N ZUM .COM An independent, objective and one of the most trusted online travel information websites in India. A unique style of writing, peppered with anecdotes and illustrated with high quality photographs and videos, have won the site a fan following of tens of thousands of travellers. More at http://kunzum.com.

T H E K UNZU M TRAV EL MAG A u n i q u e p r o d u c t , i t i s a m o n t h l y e - m a g a v a i l a b l e a s a P D F, f o r t h e i P a d a n d Kindle, and for online reading with flipping pages on Issuu.com. Subscription is FREE at http://kunzum.com/mag.

PU B LISHIN G We publish engaging and quality travel books and guides in both traditional formats as well as e-books (for the iPad, Amazon’s Kindle, other mobile readers and all computers). More at http://kunzum.com/books.

C U RATOR OF CO LLECTI BLE PHOTOGRAPHIC ART Available for your walls at home, office or resort and also as stock imagery for publishing and promotional materials. All printed on archival paper to last g e n e r a t i o n s . The prints are also on d i s p l a y a t t h e K u n z u m Tr a v e l C a f é . C h e c k t h e c o l l ection at htt p://kunzumgallery.com .

K U N ZU M TRAVEL CAFÉ A nother unique offering from Kunzum - a bricks and mortar place for the travel-minded to come together as a community, a sort of Face-to-Facebook network. Located in Hauz Khas Village in New Delhi, guests can hang around, read travel books, use free Wi-Fi, participate in events, exchange stories, enjoy music, buy photographic art, post travelogues and make travel plans. They can even order tea, coffee and cookies - and pay what they like. More at http://kunzum.com/travelcafe.

CO NTAC T US A jay Jain | ajay@ajayjain.com | +91.99100 44476 Shruti S harma | shruti@kunzum.com | +91.98119 84545 LINKS Online http://kunzum.com

Facebook http://facebook.com/kunzum Twitter http://twitter.com/kunzum Yo u T u b e http://youtube.com/kunzum Vimeo http://vimeo.com/kunzum

A BOUT AJAY JAIN Ajay Jain is a full time writer, journalist and photographer based in New Delhi in India. He is not limited in his medium of expression, equally comfortable writing for newspapers and magazines, as well as his own books and blogs.

Starting his writing career in 2001, he has been covering business, technology and youth affairs before deciding to focus wholly on travel writing. He pursues his passion by being on the road as much as he can.

He has written three books, the latest being Postcards from Ladakh (http:// www.kunzum.com/postcardsfromladakh), a pictorial travelogue on Ladakh. His first, Let’s Connect: Using LinkedIn to Get Ahead at Work, is a management book on professional networking using the world’s most popular professional networking site LinkedIn.com. It was published in early 2008. His other book, and his first travel book, Peep Peep Don’t Sleep (http://www. peeppeepdontsleep.com), is a collection of funny road signs and advertisements.

C o n tac t

Email: ajay@ajayjain.com M o b i l e : + 91. 9 910 0 4 4 4 76

LINKS Facebook

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h t t p : / / w w w. l i n ke d i n . c o m / i n / ajayjain9

H e h a s w o r ke d fo r a n d w r i t t e n c o l u m n s fo r n a t i o n a l p u b l i c a t i o n s i n I n d i a including The Hindustan Times, Mint, F i n a n c i a l E x p re s s , I n d i a n M a n a g e m e n t ( B u s i n e s s S t a n d a rd ) , O u t l o o k B u s i n e s s , D e c c a n H e ra l d , M u m b a i M i r ro r ( T i m e s o f India), Discover India, Swagat, Asian Age and Rediff.com. He has also edited a yo u t h n e w s p a p e r, T h e C a m p u s Pa p e r.

P r i o r t o t a k i n g u p w r i t i n g , h e h a s w o r ke d i n t h e I n fo r m a t i o n Te c h n o l o g y a n d S p o r t s M a n a g e m e n t s e c t o r s . H e h o l d s d e g re e s Mechanical Engineering (Delhi College o f E n g i n e e r i n g , 19 9 2 ) , M a n a g e m e n t ( F o re S c h o o l o f M a n a g e m e n t , 19 9 4 ) a n d J o u r n a l i s m ( C a rd i f f U n i v e r s i t y, U K , 2002). His schooling was at St. Columba’s School in New Delhi.