Kunzum Travel Mag April 2012

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Issue 7 | April 2012

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Ajanta & Ellora

Go to Au rang abad eve n b e fo re yo u go t o Ag r a some of t he mo s t a s t o un di n g ma n - ma de st ru ct ure s a w a i t .

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The Kunzum Travel Mag is back!

Ok, so we took a break. There were no editions of the Kunzum Travel Mag for three months starting January 2012. Not a good start to the new year. We could come up with excuses but let’s focus on the good news instead.

January was a special month for Kunzum and me personally - we came out with three books almost simultaneously. The much awaited Delhi 101, a book I loved putting together, saw the light of the day. What’s it about? It’s a pictorial travelogue across one of the most amazing cities in the world for travellers.

The journey across Delhi can only be endless; this book covers 101 surprising ways to discover the city.

And then the print version of the Kunzum Travel List 1-25 came out; the digital version was published in late 2011. The first in a series, each volume explores 25 great holiday ideas. This includes landscapes, events, cities, toy trains, great drives and more. The better news? The second volume goes into print as I write this editorial.

Contents 07 Maharashtra:

> The Caves of Ajanta and Ellora

23 Uttar pradesh:

> Chambal Wildlife Sanctuary

40 Delhi:

> Sunday Book Bazaar > A Cure for all Sexual Problems

45 Hotel Reviews:

> Reni Pani Jungle Lodge, Satpura

National Park, Madhya Pradesh > The Sarai at Toria, Panna Tiger Re-

serve, Madhya Pradesh

54 Books:

> A Classic Travel Reading List

57 Stuff:

> Sketch Feature > Travel Pix

Team Kunzum CTO (Chief Travelling Officer): Ajay Jain - He also hogs the driver’s seat

CEO (Chief Editorial Officer): Anubhuti Rana - Prefers being on the passenger seat on the highways

I also published a non-travel book, a self help book titled Don’t Feel Stupid at 60. It is a light-hearted illustrated take on the kind of life we all need to lead - so we don’t feel, as the title suggests, stupid when he look back at life on our sixtieth. Of course, an important tip in the book is about traveling at every opportunity.

Our journeys at Kunzum continue. Join us.

CDO (Chief Design Officer): Supreet J Bargi - Also Chief Desk Officer, that’s where he is stuck when others travel

Everything Officer: Samridhi Minocha - Has to put on all shoes, having fun doing so

Team getting bigger as we write this - meet them next month : )

*Unless mentioned, all articles and photographs in this issue are by Ajay Jain

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The entrance to the Kailasa Temple, or Cave 16, in Ellora

Ajanta & Ellora

Go to Aurangabad even before you visit Agra Astounding! This is the only expression I could think of to describe the caves at Ajanta and Ellora around Aurangabad in Maharashtra. These could only have been the works of those with special skills, an extraordinary sense of art and possibly some supernatural powers. The Taj Mahal should gracefully admit it is not the greatest monument built in India. Get set to be overwhelmed when you tour the caves of Ajanta and Ellora. What you get here is just a peek; even a tome cannot do justice to these wonders.

Ajanta What may have been bad news for a tiger turned out to be a good one for the world.

Two British officers out hunting for the big cat stumbled upon the rock-cut caves of Ajanta in 1819, lying in obscurity for centuries. Travellers and historians have been richer for it ever since.

The handiwork of Buddhists, the caves were carved into a semi-circular steep rocky face, about 250 feet (76 metres) high, overlooking a narrow gorge with the Waghora stream flowing through it. Five of the caves here served as chaitya-grihas (sanctuary) while another 25 as viharas (monasteries). The caves are now connected by a terraced path which is a later development; originally, all had in-

dividual steps leading to the stream below.

These steps have all but disappeared now.

The caves had come up between the second century B.C. and the seventh century A.D., with no known patrons.

The surviving mural paintings have established themselves as popular icons in their own right, inspiring many a modern artist.

These overshadow the sculptures, no less impressive. The theme of the paintings are mostly religious depicting the Buddha and incidents from His life, Bodhisattvas and the Jatakas presenting tales of the previous births of Gautama Buddha. The painting on the ceilings are mostly decorative in nature though.

Let the images speak for themselves.

Cave 4 is the largest monastery in Ajanta, but it was never completed.

The shrine itself has a colossal image of the Buddha in a teaching

position. The walls of the antechamber are also carved with six gigantic figures of Buddha, each in a standing position. Two are unfinished; the right hand of each is shown in the abhayamudra position while

the left is holding the hem of a garment. This cave was built in the first half of the 6th century A.D.

The how of rock-cut architecture The creation of something like the caves at Ajanta was no mean task. Work would start with marking outlines, and finishing the ceilings first. Work then moved downwards, cutting deep alleys with sharp and heavy instruments like the pickaxe. This was followed by the breaking of the intervening ridges, leaving solid blocks for pillars where necessary. The floor was taken care of last. The finishing and carving was executed using hammer and chisel. After the faรงade of the verandah, workers went deep into the interiors, attending to the hall first and then the antechamber, shrine or cells as planned. All in all, it was a job requiring delicate handling, precision and extreme care. And skills and creativity we cannot imagine anyone possessing in modern times.

Cave 26, dated around 6-7th centuries A.D., is a chaitya-griha with an imposing faรงade, a spacious forecourt, a pillared verandah with two side porches and an apsidal hall. A monolith stupa within is the main object of worship here; it is marked with intricate carvings and a figure of the Buddha.

Cave 26. The figures below aining Nirvana depicted in att of ge ver the on dha A reclining Bud urning. those of his followers in mo

are

A Bodhisattva on the wall flanking

the entry to the antechamber of

Cave 1

Cave 24 is incomplete but it is the second largest monastery after Cave 4. It may have been built in the 7th century A.D. The pillars are lavishly carved, as are the door and window frames.

Known as Ramesvara and dedicated to Lord Shiva, Cave 21 boasts exquisite architectural details and sculptures even if many of the elements have got eroded. You are welcomed with a statue of Nandi bull on a pedestal decorated with figures of Gods and Goddesses in the courtyard.

Ellora The signature cave at Ellora is the monolithic Kailasa temple, numbered 16 in the series, and named after the mountain abode of Hindu God Shiva. The massive structure was hewn from a mass of rock obtained by cutting three big trenches in the three sides of a hill. It is estimated this temple demanded labour across 10 generations, the work taking 200 years to complete. It comprises a main shrine, another shrine for the Nandi bull, a wagon shaped gopuram or main entrance and a 16-pillared mandapa or main hall - the last three connected by stone bridges.

The complex is full of ornate sculptures of deities, amorous couples and friezes of scenes from the epics besides floral, faunal and geometrical

designs. Carving any one of the elements of this temple would have been a feat; it boggles the mind imagining anyone daring to carve a mammoth, heavily sculptured structure in one piece.

That’s Ellora for you, also called Verul and Elura; these are all corruptions of its ancient name of Elapura. These caves celebrate the achievements of three major religions of India: Jainism, Buddhism and Hinduism. Their patrons and even their age are guesstimates at best; these may have been built between the 6th and 10th centuries A.D. Ellora’s wealth lies in both its architecture and sculptures. Go explore, without being rushed.

A dhvajastambha, a well finished cubical column marking the beginning of the courtyard of the Kailasa temple.

Sculptures in an enclosure in the Kailasa temple.

Cave 29 is locally known as ‘dumar-lena’ or ‘sita-ki-nahani’

after a figure of river Goddess Yamuna was mistaken for that of Lord Rama’s wife, Sita. It has three entrances facing the north, south and west - flanked by guardian lions and el-

ephants. The cave temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva. During

the monsoons, water cascades down the eastern wall, making for a beautiful waterfall.

A panel in Cave 29 representing the marriages of Lord Shiva with Parvati

Lord Shiva and Parvati playing dice, with the lower panel depicting a statue of Nandi bull

Cave 32, known as Indra-sabha, is

the most interesting of all Jain caves.

The courtyard has a monolithic man-

dapa or hall with a quadruple image of Jain Lord Mahavira. Flanking it are

the recently restored manastambha, a pillar topped with four Brahma-Yaksha figures facing the four cardinal

directions. A monolithic elephant stands guard to the right of the courtyard.

The main cave is two-tiered.

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Locally known as Visvakarma, Buddhist Cave 10 is the only chaitya hall, or a sanctuary with a stupa.

A double storied structure, it has a beautifully carved faรงade and a music gallery to provide background music to monks chanting their prayers below.

Aurangabad- Travel Tips Accommodation : Aurangabad has many hotels of all quality levels. It is best to make your base here to explore the attractions around.

Best time to go : October to February.

It can be very hot in the summers and wet during the monsoons. Not the best of time to walk on superheated or slippery rocky surfaces. Try to reach the caves early morning to beat the crowds, and the see the structures come alive with the rising sun.

Getting there : Aurangabad is well connected by air, road and train. Ellora is about 29 kms (18 miles) and Ajanta is about 105 kms (66 miles) from Aurangabad.

Siddhayika, the Goddess of Wealth and Prosperity, in Cave 32

* Give yourself a full day each for Ajanta and Ellora, and another day for other caves and buildings.

The imposing apsidal chaitya hall in Cave 10 has 30 pillars and an elaborate stupa in the rear. A huge figure of a preaching Buddha flanked by two Bodhisatvvas is carved in front of the stupa. The vaulted roof is ornamentally supported by naga ribs.

sh de ra P er tt U , ry ua ct an S e lif ild W l ba am Ch Chambal has always been infamous for being home to some of

the most notorious dacoits living within its ravines, and the image

has not changed even as the gun-toting outlaws striking fear on

horseback are mostly in the past tense. What awaits instead is one of the most beautiful birding and animal reserves in and around the pristine Chambal river. And, surprise surprise, it is just over an hour away from India’s most famous touristic address: the Taj Mahal.

Cruising Down the River The highlight of the visit is a cruise on the Chambal river. The waters are blue and clean, the air is fresh, and the silence overwhelming - all precious and much sought after commodities for city dwellers. The soft purring of your motorboat, the clicking of your camera and the chirping of birds are all that you will hear.

The last mile to the river takes you through the infamous ravines, and you cannot help but wonder how anyone could live in what look like endless gigantic anthills; it also explains why the cops had such a tough time chasing those who chose to disappear amongst the labyrinth. Park your

car on the banks of the river and hop into your waiting boat. Safaris usually last half a day; you can pick from one starting at sunrise or ending at sunset.

Your ride takes you through the protected area under the National Chambal Sanctuary, spread across 1,235 square kms (477 square miles) along the 400 kms (250 miles) of the Chambal river flowing from Kota in Rajasthan and further into the states of Madhya Pradesh and Uttar Pradesh. Your cruise will be in the portion of the river forming a natural boundary between MP and UP.

The spotting begins almost as soon as you are in the water. The Gharials (Gavialis gangeticus), distinguished with their long slender snouts, and the chunkier Mugger Crocodiles (Crocodylus palustris) or Marsh Crocodiles love their sun. When you see these animals for the first time, you cannot be faulted for regarding them as inanimate objects. Get closer, and they suddenly find a life within and slink into the water. No Hollywood flick style attacks happen; the otherwise ferocious animals choose to stay clear of humans unless provoked unnecessarily. These reptiles are supposedly to be seen by the scores or even hundreds in March when the water levels have further fallen.

And then I saw the turtles - small sized ones and even smaller babies. Basking in the sun on rocks, posing for

a few minutes for the cameras before walking away towards drier ground or going back into the water. I was really hoping to spot the endangered Gangetic River Dolphins, known as Soons locally. Only towards sunset did they make an appearance - in the form of small splashes of water rising above the surface. Did not see any bits of the dolphins - but I was made to believe of their existence by my guide.

Sunset on the river is no less than ethereal. After a few shots, it is best to put the camera away and admire the setting. The colours of the sky change to golden yellow, reflecting in the water; the air gets cooler and silhouetted flocks of birds circle around you. As the skies go grey, and the surroundings quieter, ask your boatman to switch off the engines so you can whisper a thanks to the Creator.

Mugger Gharials in the Chambal River

Turtles in the Chambal River

The graceful Indian Skimmer in Chambal attracts bird lovers and researchers from all over the world. Distinguished by its black cap, orange bill and a white body, it is found mostly in rivers and estuaries in south and south-east Asia. Its breeding season is usually March and May, also a good time to see them congregate in colonies of up to 40 pairs. Their

numbers are on the decline unfortunately, estimated to be only a few thousand now.

Fall in water levels due to the damming of the Chambal river and climate change has allowed predators and livestock to access their breeding islands. Release of water from dams and seasonal flooding can also destroy breeding colonies.

Bar-headed Geese on the banks of the Chambal river

An Osprey on the Chambal river bank with a fresh catch of fish. The Osprey’s diet consists almost exclusively of fish, and they are thus found near water bodies.

This is how men and their machines (and everything else) cross the Chambal river

Bateshwar When at Chambal, drop by at Bateshwar village thus giving Bateshwar its name. Ancient Jain known for its temples along the banks of the texts refer to the area as Shauryapura after its founder the Yadava king Shursen, great-grandriver Yamuna. father of both the Hindu God Krishna and of According to folklore, an ascetic who wor- the 22nd Tirthankar of the Jains, Neminath. Exshipped the Hindu God Shiva lived here under cavations show this may have been the site of a banyan tree (bat in Sanskrit). He built a shrine a thriving settlement before the Yadavas abanto Shiva called Bat-Ishwar or the Banyan Lord, doned it for strategic reasons.

A mud cave where a sadhu lives Bateshwar continued to be a prominent religious centre, with hundreds of temples coming up over the centuries. About 40 survive now. The late medieval period saw extensive building activity but many, including a fort, were left unfinished or uncared for due to the turbulence following the fall of Mughal authority in Delhi. There is no binding style to any of the structures, been built by different patrons with varying endowments.

The best way to see Bateshwar is by boat along the ghats (series of steps leading to a water body) and temples. Ask your boatman to go beyond the village and you will be greeted by many exotic birds and some animals too along the banks.

Upon disembarking, walk around the temples, entering some and offering your prayers if you choose to. A short walk beyond the temples bring you to small hills with mud caves inhabit-

ed by sadhus or holy men. Call upon them, chat them up, take their blessings if you need any, and take a few pictures. But it is recommended you decline their offer of smoking from their chillums or pipes, unless you are seeking a high at your own risk.

The village also hosts what is supposedly the second largest animal fair in the country, after Sonepur in Bihar. It usually starts 4-5 days before the festival of Diwali, and lasts about two weeks.

Trading starts with bullocks, buffaloes and cows, followed by horses and camels and ending with donkeys and goats. Elephants used to be put up in the market in the past but not any longer. This is immediately followed by a religious fair, when tens of thousands of devotees come in their colourful best to offer their prayers, take a holy dip in the river, gorge on food and shop at the big bazaar set up with hundreds of stalls.

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The ghats at Bateshwar

r a w h s e t a B in t r o f d e h An unfinis

Birds in the Yamuna river along - Bateshwar Chambal Travel Tips

* Getting there: One can easily drive down from Delhi, about 280 kms (175 miles) away. Nearest railhead and airport are at Agra, 70 kms (45 miles) away. Distances are marked to Chambal Safari Lodge. l* Accommodation: The Chambal Safari Lodge is the place to stay. Check them out at chamba safari.com. * Best time to go: November to March. Summer temperatures can rise to 47 degrees Celsius, falling to as low as four degrees in the winters. l * Safaris: Unless you know of guides you can engage, safaris are best booked at the Chamba Safari Lodge. They operate their own boats in the Chambal and Yamuna rivers, and have a competent team of guides on their rolls. You will see many a bird and some animals if you just walk within and around the lodge compound. The lodge also offers village walks, nature walks, bicycle rides and safaris on horses and camels through the ravines of Chambal. Take your pick from the a la carte menu.

Blackbucks in Chambal The Blackbuck Safari The best place in the country to spot Blackbucks is Velavadar in Gujarat (read Kunzum Travel List #33 for more); you can see them by the hundreds there. But looking for them in agricultural fields around the ravines of Chambal is a game in itself.

These beautiful animals move in groups, and flit in and out of the wheat fields and other growth. They seek the foliage at the sight of tourists, only to be driven out by farmers who fear for their crops. Don’t miss the many beautiful birds here. Make sure you are wearing shoes suited to walk around in muddy fields.

While you are there, don’t be surprised if you build a following of village boys - share any sweets you may have, and ask them for sugarcane to chew on if they grow any. Farmers working their fields are ever ready to break into a grin and chat with you. And as the sun sets, farmers pack their tools and head home. So do the birds and animals. You may want to hang around longer till its dark.

A Black-shouldered Kite

Time to Go home

Rufous-tailed Shrike

An Indian Roller

The commonly found Cattle Egrets

Collared Scops Owls Bird watching in Chambal Safari Lodge Your lodge is home to over

180 species of birds itself, many of them exotic and

rare; you could well spend the day without moving out to have your fill.

Rare Brown Hawk Owl

Flying Foxes or Fruit Bats. Unlike the ones I saw at Koshi Tappu in Nepal, the ones in Chambal were on much shorter trees and thus making for better viewing. They rest in the day and fly all night to eat fruits.

Hoopoe

DELHI

SUNDAY BOOK BAZAAR THIS ONE IS FOR BOOKWORMS

This may not quite match up to the fame of Hay-on-Wye (in the U.K and, unofficially the second hand books capital of the world) but it does have something for bookworms nonetheless.

Every Sunday, scores of traders set up shop along the main street of Darya Ganj to sell used books and magazines from around 10:00 a.m. till sunset.

You can find books across all genres – fiction, nonfiction, classics, travel, business, reference, academic, pornography – mostly in Hindi or English.

The condition of these also varies: you can find 100 year old books in near mint condition or this year’s titles in tatters. You could have them moth ridden, dog-eared, torn in places, or put together by additional binding or pasting.

Half the fun is just browsing through. And bargaining. Do flip through the pages to check if they are all there; the very old books could even have pages disintegrate upon touch. Go early to get the widest choice of titles before they are snapped up.

Don’t ask too many questions though – most sellers don’t look like they have read a book in their life.

And it’s not just books on sale. You get file covers, ring binders, diaries, note pads and posters including old Bollywood ones. Cashing in on the footfalls are traders selling shoes, clothes, accessories, tools, toys – all at bargain prices with quality to match. Doing brisk business in all this are food kiosks – if you do not fear the Delhi Belly, treat yourself to jalebis, chola bhaturas, lassi, sweets, paranthas, aloo puri, rabri, chaat and more. You also have the wholesale market for fruits and vegetables – just in case you are looking to stock up at prices lower than your neighbourhood shop.

All in all, a bookworm’s delight.

Darya Ganj: Publisher Street If you are looking to get a book published, Ansari Road, parallel to Darya Ganj, may be the place you want to start. It is the home of book publishing in town, with many small and major publishers and distributors having their offices here. Additional service providers like printers, designers, binders and packers are also to be found. But you will increasingly see mostly Indian companies here; multinational imprints have chosen to locate themselves elsewhere in the city in the recent past.

DELHI Cure for all Sexual Problems

Old Delhi is home to some very ‘famous’ sexual

health clinics, prominent ones being the Khandani Shafakhana on Asaf Ali Road, Hero Pharmacy in Chandni Chowk and Sablok Clinic in Darya Ganj – all claiming to rid you of any weaknesses or ailments, usually with traditional forms of Indian medicine. And then there are many lesser known ones spread all across.

If you suffer from any problem, you may want to visit one of these ‘doctors’ but at your own risk.

(Recommendation: Don’t!) If you are perfectly fine, then book an appointment for some entertainment. Go over with a make-believe issue for a diagnosis. But don’t fall over laughing or start going ‘Quack Quack’ during examination – it’s bad manners. Save it till you are out. And don’t consume anything offered or prescribed.

The consultation fee will be well spent. And the experience ‘orgasmic !’

Sablok Clinic Rocks

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Amongst the ‘biggies,’ Sablok Clinic even has its own website – sablokclinic.com – where you can send your problems online and medicines will be sent across to wherever you are. You don’t even need to be physically examined. They have a cure for everything including (quoted verbatim from their website): • Masturbation – Bad company or lack of proper guidance leads boys to hand practice whenever they are alone as it provides a sort of physical enjoyment.

• Night Discharge - Patient feels the presence of a beautiful woman on the bed in dream, starts doing sexual act with her and the semen is discharged.

• Syphilis - Intercourse with prostitutes and girls of bad character may lead to syphilis.

• Impotency - If a person cannot fully satisfy his wife in the sexual act, it is called impotency.

The main cause of impotency is excess of masturbation, secondly excess intercourse. This disease ruins married life. The wife becomes very much disappointed and frustrated. Not only the satisfaction of sexual desire she has, but the desire of having a child is more important to a woman. To fulfill this desire she may take the help of some other person by which a heaven like home turns into a hell.

The site also provides guidance for conducting oneself on their honeymoon. An extract: “If you fail to prove yourself a good companion to your newly wedded, you cannot be an ideal companion for her in bed as well. She will take you as a very sexy and lusty man as if she is only an object of sexual enjoyment. This is why it would be necessary to take her as a life companion and not a thing of sexual satisfaction or only a bedside partner.

You must know the code of decency and observe good manners and need not be in a reckless hurry about sexual union, otherwise this happy occasion may turn into an unlucky night.

Some girls have very touch Hymen (cover of vagina), whereas in some girls it is very thin and tender and some do not have it at all. Because they might have been torn as a result of games in the childhood, Horse riding or swimming. Therefore the husband should never suspect the character of his wife else his married life may turn into a curse for him.

The first intercourse is sometime very much painful for your wife. Therefore in the early days of honeymoon, the husband should first win the wife’s confidence with sweet talks and make her agreeable to intercourse in manner that she may not feel any hesitation or shyness in doing this act. First of all you should try to win her as a friend and exercise a certain degree of control over yourself as your loving attitude will impress her & she will dedicate herself to you.”

Are you feeling enlightened already? Dial 011-23278787 for more !

Hotel Review Reni Pani Jungle Lodge Satpura National Park, Madhya Pradesh

Satpura National Park and Tiger Reserve can surely be regarded as one of the most beautiful wildlife reserves in India, and a gem known to only a few. As is the Reni Pani Jungle Lodge.

Brothers Faiz and Ali have defined new benchmarks in not only the design but even service and quality levels with their lodge, not easy to emulate by others in the business. Read on‌

* Rooms: You will not be blamed for not wanting to step out. The rooms are spacious, very well furnished, and designed keeping all guest needs in mind.

An alcove allows you to sit comfortably, the beds are perfect for a good night’s sleep for safari-rattled bodies, and the bathing area has its own walk-in closet and dressing area. The verandah is just right for your morning cuppa. The mini bar allows you to make your own tea and coffee, and comes with a cookie jar. The showers provide hot and cold water when you need.

The interiors are what you may want to copy for your own bedroom back home.

You know the chefs and servers have made quite an effort whenever you sit down for a meal. The spread is not too vast (thankfully, else we would all end up looking like gluttons) but tasty, wholesome and mostly organic. The setting for dinner changes every night - you may be sitting in a clump of trees one day, and by the poolside the next. Lamps and other decorations under the open skies make it a romantic’s delight.

* Attention to detail: The mini bar in your room has a pair of small scissors - to make it easy for you to cut open milk powder and coffee sachets. Such attention to detail is to be seen all across the property; you will not be found wanting a torch, a bottle of water, a blanket or anything else for that matter. They are all there when you want it, where you want it.

* Liked Best: The design and setting of the lodge, and the extremely caring and personalized service.

And the style with which everything is done - nothing opulent or flashy, but always making it look special.

* Conservation: Little goes to waste at Reni Pani.

Much of the furnishing was crafted from disposed off furniture and fittings when its sister property, the * Service: If the butler has to pick you at 7:30 p.m. Jehan Numa Palace in Bhopal, underwent a renovafor dinner, he will be there at that time precisely. Yes, tion. Look up in the dining, and you will see the chanyou are allotted butlers to take care of your needs delier designed from used ceramic soup bowls. The and to guide you around when it’s dark. This service management sources as much of fruits, vegetables culture has been imbibed all through. Housekeeping, and dairy products from surrounding villages and chefs, waiters, guides, porters - it is difficult to fault markets, and half the staff comprises locals. Electricanyone. They are all good at their job, are receptive ity and water consumption is minimized to the best to guest needs, are all well turned out and will always extent possible; generators come on only when reserve you with a smile. ally required. Filtered water is available, and guests need not open plastic bottles. * Location: The lodge stands in the middle of a thick forest, left intact to the best extent possible when * Safaris: The folks at Reni Pani know their forest. constructing the buildings. You step out of your cot- The naturalists, and Faiz and Ali too, are all highly tage and are at once surrounded by trees and other knowledgeable and in sync with the wild. Talk to flora, as well as streams that overflow with water them about what interests you, and they will put it during the monsoons. Many a bird and animal come all together for you. They are ever willing to share visiting; your hosts strictly advise you against walking stories and anecdotes - don’t miss the opportunity around in the dark without a butler and a flashlight to get it all from them. The safaris will be much more lest a leopard decides to take you home for dinner. enjoyable when you go in well informed.

* Meals: Talk about pampering guests, and in style.

* Liked Least: All good things have to come to an end, and you have to check out of Reni Pani eventually. Your hosts get to stay on. Apply for a job - you may just get one.

A bedroom

The study in a cottage

The double vanity in the bath area

Evening drinks and snacks over a bon f ire

The chef also serving at dinner time

A S it - out

Th e sw im m in g po ol

The library and reading room

A lounge area in the main building

A lounge area in the main building

The dining

A sh op to bu y ha nd ic ra ft s an d so uv en irs

Lodge Address

Reni Pani Jungle Lodge Village Reni Pani, Tehsil Sohagpur, District Hoshangabad Madhya Pradesh, India Tel: +91.93019 99223 / 93019 99198

For Reservations

Tel: +91.755.2661100 Mobile: +91.99930 99067 Email: info@renipanijunglelodge.com Web: http://renipanijunglelodge.com

Hotel Review The Sarai at Toria Panna Tiger Reserve, Madhya Pradesh

If everyone in the world had homes like the Sarai at Toria, we would never fight each other and live happily ever after. Unfortunately Utopia is not to be found everywhere; thankfully Joanna and Raghu have created one where we can all get away to every once in a while.

Joanna Van Gruisen is a celebrated photographer, writer and conservationist; originally from the UK, the Indian subcontinent has been home to her for over 30 years. Her husband, Dr. Raghu Chundawat, is a conservation biologist whose main studies have been on Snow Leopards and Tigers. Together they have created a property that may be an apt reflection of the work they have dedicated their lives to. Sarai means inn in Persian, and Toria is a nearby village.

sides, affording views of the Ken river while you have your meals or laze around with a book. This perfect setting gets better when you look around you: tall grasses and trees on the property, fields around and hills beyond. What more do you want? Awesome views of the rising and the setting sun? Yes, you get these too.

* Food: Get ready to be spoiled and pampered. Sarai boasts three chefs including Raghu (another talent of Situated on the west bank of one of the most pictur- his) and a pastry chef. Freshly baked croissants, pasesque rivers of India, the Ken river, the Sarai is set tas, salads, makki ki roti and saag - finger licking stuff on nine acres of undulating land surrounded by lo- you cannot stop eating. Whetting your appetite is the cal villages and forests. Other guests and residents presentation: you could be served under the trees, in at the Sarai include a rich variety of birds, insects, the lawns or in the covered dining. The high quality mammals and butterflies. Don’t be surprised if you crockery and cutlery used remind you more of a fine are greeted by a Jungle Cat, a Mongoose, a Jackal or dining place in town than a jungle lodge. Enjoy the a Langur monkey. It is all a part of the rich offering at meals, you will miss them later.

Sarai. Here’s more: * Service: Is there much left to say? With Joanna and * The Rooms: The stone, wood and tile buildings Raghu involved hands-on, and training their staff truly blend with the natural settings. The rooms are well, you are going to feel special throughout your spacious, with aesthetic interiors. Four rooms have stay. a mezzanine where children can go up to and sleep.

Private courtyards and verandahs make it even more * The Safaris: If your hosts are like Joanna and Raghu, difficult for you to leave your quarters - you just want you can be richer by as much of their knowledge and to enjoy them all. All rooms have attached spacious experience as you can absorb. Sarai maintains their baths, with running hot and cold showers. House- own fleet of 4-wheel drive Gypsy vehicles, with natukeeping is excellent, and you will be hard pressed to ralists who can only be well trained. Make the most find anything that requires taking care of. Bedsheets, of the opportunity to appreciate the forest while at towels and other linen are clean and feel fresh. There the Sarai. is no air-conditioning, but the room design does not need any cooling except during peak summers and * While you are there: Laze around and do nothing. the monsoons - but the lodge is closed during that Or go for jeep safaris in the Panna Tiger Reserve, a time. There are six cottage rooms currently, with cruise on the Ken river, a day trip to Khajuraho, a hike plans to add two more. up the Ajaygarh fort, village walks and more. * The Setting: The dining and lounge is open on three Go to the Sarai at Toria as a destination in itself.

A bedroom

The bath in one of the cottages

Lunch under the trees. Notice the small kitchen garden too.

The mezzanine with additional beds in some of the cottages

The lounge which also overlooks the Ken river

Co tt age s

The brid ge conn ect ing the park ing area to the cot tage s area

Time for breakfast

Getting There The lodge is located just off NH75, about 2 kms from the entrance to the Panna Tiger Reserve at Madla.

You can get there:

* Via Khajuraho: The town is well connected by air and rail services, and is a 30 minute drive from Sarai.

* Via Jhansi: This town is even better connected by train, but takes about 3.5 hours more by road.

* By Road: If you are driving yourself, enjoy the whole Bundelkhand region and stop at the many awesome destinations along the way.

Contact for Reservations : RARE (T S Market ing Services) U26A/6, Ground F loor, DLF P hase III, Gurgaon, Haryana - 122 002 P h : + 91.124.2356004 / 4062480 / 4062481 Email: saraiat toria@gmail.com | Web: ht tp://saraiat toria.com Contact the Lodge Direct : Raghu- + 91.9685293130 |

Joanna - +91.9752270337

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To simply bum around. Exchange travel stories. Make travel plans.

Read up & buy travel books. Post travelogues, images & videos. pick up photographic art. Even write books.

Over coffee and cookies. And free Wi-Fi. Only at the

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A classic travel book reading list Nimish Dubey

Ask someone about reading travelogues and it is a fair chance that they will head off and start looking for books by the likes of Mark Shand, Bill Bryson and Sir Ranulph Fiennes. And there is nothing really wrong with it as these are perhaps the masters of modern travel literature. However, before people start off on these, we would request them to try out some of the older masters. No, yawn not at their being mentioned, for these gentlemen and ladies turned out some of the most magnificent travel writing we have ever read, be it cloaked as fiction or written in classic travelogue style.

Be it the gritty, survival-oriented tale of Robinson Crusoe by Daniel Defoe, the utterly insane wander-

ings of Don Quixote by Miguel Cervates or the amazingly futuristic travels of Jules Verne, there is a standard of writing here that is likely to more than match anything that modern travel authors have to offer.

Truth be told, we think that the older classic writers are actually much better than the modern ones, simply because their command of the language was markedly superior and because they seemed to be much better narrators than their modern counterparts. As one person put it so aptly, the likes of Twain and Verne were authors who liked to travel, while Shand and Fiennes are travellers who like to write (although Bryson can claim to be exempted from this – the man has some mastery of prose).

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So, if you would take our word for it, we would ask you to check out the following classics from travel literature before you venture into more modern works. You will not regret it, we promise.

1. Don Quixote by Miguel Cervates: A man thinks he is a knight and travels all over Spain, getting pilloried and thumped in equal measure, but sticks to his task. Hilarious, sarcastic and the first travel classic.

ment. We have not stopped laughing yet.

7. Three Men in a Boat by Jerome K Jerome: Three men (and a dog) decide to take a break from their routine lives by sailing down the Thames and what follows is perhaps the most 2. Around the World in Eighty Days by Jules hilarious account in travel literature. We defy Verne: We reviewed it earlier and still think you to read it without laughing. that the attempt by an English gentleman and his valet to traverse the world in eighty days is 8. Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea the ultimate in travel fiction.

by Jules Verne: Another book by Verne, establishing him as the master in the travel 3. Journey to the Centre of the Earth by Jules literature genre. This time, a hunt for a maVerne: Another Verne classic, this time based rine creature that is sinking ships turns into on the efforts of three mean to go into the an amazing journey under the sea. Written bowels of the earth, in an attempt to find the before the world had seen a submarine. But centre of the planet. Tense, riveting stuff and then, Verne was a genius. you will never guess what they find in there!

9. Life on the Mississipi by Mark Twain: How 4. Gulliver’s Travels by Jonathan Swift: A man on earth did Twain get all those amazing porwhose voyages takes him to strange places. trayals of life along the Mississipi river? Well, Sounds simple? Read the book and we are he was a steam boat pilot on it. This is his accertain you will be riveted. count of those days and is written with typical warmth, skill and of course, humour.

5. Robinson Crusoe by Daniel Defoe: A shipwrecked man on a seemingly uninhabited 10. Travels With a Donkey in the Cevennes by island, trying to eke out a living, even as he Robert Louis Stevenson: The man who gave explores his whereabouts. An amazing tale. us masterpieces like Treasure Island and Kidnapped loved to travel and this book details 6. The Adventures of Huckleberry Finn by his 120 mile hiking trip in France. The route Mark Twain: Two boys decide to run away has retraced by millions of his fans and othfrom home and sail down a river, meeting all er travellers since, but none has managed to sorts of people in a journey rich with excite- write a book half as brilliant.

PEEP PEEP DON’T SLEEP A book on funny road signs and advertisements with captions and commentary by Ajay Jain If you thought road signs are only meant to guide and inform, think again.

The ones on Indian highways are in a zone of their own. They shower you with words of wisdom, keep your mind sharp as you unravel their cryptic messages, tickle your imagination, amuse you and entertain you. In public interest, they lend a hand to Alcoholics Anonymous. Since journeys are meant to be a pleasure, they remind you to ‘Smile Please.’

The entertainment for the traveler does not stop at this. There are the limitless public notices, outdoor advertisements and storefront signs with their own idiosyncrasies and eccentricities. Who needs comic strips in this country?

Ajay Jain drove thousands of miles to put together this collection of signs. With a bit of witty commentary thrown in, this book will be a journey unlike any other you may have undertaken. Resulting in you letting out a ‘Peep Peep’ of delight.

For more on the book, sample chapters and to order visit www.peeppeepdontsleep.com Available as a Paperback, as a PDF and for the iPad and Kindle 36

kunzum Travel Pix

We bring you engaging imagery from our travels - and a few are given here. Follow the series. The first six appeared in the December 2011 issue of the Kunzum Travel Mag.

Postcards from Ladakh A Pictorial Travelogue by Ajay Jain

Postcards from Ladakh is a collection of frames - picture postcards, if you will - frozen circa 2009, when the author drove for over 10,000 kms (6,000 miles) across the remote and fascinating region of Ladakh in the Indian Himalayas.

Neither guidebook nor encyclopedia, it is intended to give you a flavour of this high altitude cold desert.

You will also meet a few Ladakhis in these pages. And see the land they live in, the faith they live by, the hope they live on‌Each of them will spontaneously greet you with a cheerful Julley and invite you to be part of their culture and society.

No Ladakhi is a stranger. We just haven’t had the time to meet them all...

For more on the book, sample chapters and to order visit www.kunzum.com/postcardsfromladakh Available as a Paperback, as a PDF and for the iPad and Kindle

Si n c e 2007, Kunzum has se rve d as an imp o rt a n t g u id e f o r t ra v e lle rs p la n n in g jo u r n e y s i n I n dia and the su b continent - and some in t e rn a t io n a l d e s t in a t io n s t o o .

I N TR ODUCTIONS FIRS T… Ku n zum is a high a ltitu d e pass in the L a h a u l S p it i re g io n o f Hima c h a l P ra d e s h in I n d i a .

An d the i nspi r ation b e h ind the b rand t h a t is a ll a b o u t me mo ra b le t ra v e l e x p e rie n c e s .

O u r j our ney starte d in 2007 a s a trave l b lo g b y writ e r a n d p h o t o g ra p h e r, A ja y J a i n . A n d w e h ave cr ossed ma n y milestones - lit e ra lly a n d f ig u ra t iv e ly - s in c e t h e n .

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TH E KUNZUM T RAV E L MAG A u n i q u e p r o d u c t , i t i s a m o n t h l y e - m a g a v a i l a b l e a s a P D F, f o r t h e i P a d a n d Kindle, and for online reading with flipping pages on Issuu.com. Subscription is FREE at http://kunzum.com/mag.

PU B LISH ING We publish engaging and quality travel books and guides in both traditional formats as well as e-books (for the iPad, Amazon’s Kindle, other mobile readers and all computers). More at http://kunzum.com/books.

C U R ATOR OF COLLE CTIBLE P HOTOG RAP HI C ART Available for your walls at home, office or resort and also as stock imagery for publishing and promotional materials. All printed on archival paper to last g e n e r a t i o n s . The prints a re a lso on d is p la y a t t h e K u n z u m Tra v e l Ca f é . Ch e c k t he c o l l ection at http://kunzu mgallery.co m.

K U N ZUM TR AVE L CAFÉ Another unique offering from Kunzum - a bricks and mortar place for the travel-minded to come together as a community, a sort of Face-to-Facebook network. Located in Hauz Khas Village in New Delhi, guests can hang around, read travel books, use free Wi-Fi, participate in events, exchange stories, enjoy music, buy photographic art, post travelogues and make travel plans. They can even order tea, coffee and cookies - and pay what they like. More at http://kunzum.com/travelcafe.

CONTACT US wetravel@kunzum.com | +91.9650702777 LINKS Online http://kunzum.com

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ABOU T AJAY JAIN Ajay Jain is a full time writer, journalist and photographer based in New Delhi in India. He is not limited in his medium of expression, equally comfor table writing for newspapers and magazines, as well as his own books and blogs.

Star ting his writing career in 2001, he has been covering business, technology and youth affairs before deciding to focus wholly on travel writing. He pursues his passion by being on the road as much as he can.

He has written three books, the latest being Postcards from Ladakh (http://www. kunzum.com/postcardsfromladakh), a pictorial travelogue on Ladakh. His first, Let ’s Connect: Using LinkedIn to Get Ahead at Work, is a management book on professional networking using the world’s most popular professional networking site LinkedIn.com. It was published in early 2008. His other book, and his first travel book, Peep Peep Don’t Sleep (http://www. peeppeepdontsleep.com), is a collection of funny road signs and adver tisements.

C o n tac t

Email: ajay@ajayjain.com M o b i l e : + 91. 9 910 0 4 4 4 76

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He has worked for and written columns for national publications in India including The Hindustan Times, Mint, Fi n a n c i a l E x p r e s s , I n d i a n M a n a g e m e n t (Business Standard), Outlook Business, Deccan Herald, Mumbai Mirror ( Times of India), Discover India, Swagat, Asian A g e a n d R e d i f f. c o m . H e h a s a l s o e d i t e d a y o u t h n e w s p a p e r, T h e C a m p u s Pa p e r.

Prior to tak ing up writing, he has worked i n t h e I n f o r m a t i o n Te c h n o l o g y a n d S p o r t s Management sectors. He holds degrees Mechanical Engineering (Delhi College of Engineering, 1992), Management ( Fo r e S c h o o l o f M a n a g e m e n t , 1 9 9 4 ) a n d J o u r n a l i s m ( C a r d i f f U n i v e r s i t y, U K , 2 0 0 2 ) .

H i s s c h o o l i n g w a s a t S t . C o l u m b a’s S c h o o l in New Delhi.