LYNTON & LYNMOUTH SCENE 2009

North Devon

North Devon

North Devon

North Devon

North Devon

2009

The Best Visitor Guide • Win an

camera

• Johnny Kingdom’s Exmoor

www.lyntonandlynmouthscene.co.uk Produced by the Lyn Association of Commerce and Tourism

Map ref: D1

Welcome

to Lynton & Lynmouth and the Scene 2009 - the best guide to enjoy your stay The Lynton & Lynmouth Scene 2009 presents an introduction to this unique and unspoilt area, situated on the spectacular North Devon coast in one of England’s last remaining tranquil areas, Exmoor.

There is nowhere else like it: stunning scenery; magnificent wildlife; views to remember forever; unspoilt villages; unique local characters; delicious local food; genuine hospitality: all shaped by a remarkable history and a passion to sustain a rare and natural environment.

It is no wonder that the area continues to provide so much inspiration for all its visitors and locals alike. Inspiration that has shaped many great achievements, from famous classic novels, poetry and paintings to contemporary books, modern art and craft, wildlife films and photography.

There is no better place to be to enjoy the great outdoors, for pure relaxation, outdoor pursuits or adrenalin thrills. A paradise for walkers, long distance trails, short walks and easy access trails, Exmoor has them all. Lynton & Lynmouth ‘The Walking Capital of Exmoor’ has four National Walking Trails that pass through including the South West Coast Path and The Two Moors Way. Picturesque Lynmouth provides a romantic escape from modern living with its row of thatched fishing cottages and shops that cluster around the pretty harbour of gently bobbing boats. Lynton perched high above is a vibrant Victorian village retaining a quaint mix of times present and times past.

Lynton & Lynmouth form an ideal base to explore Exmoor and North Devon. Turn the pages to discover more: Johnny Kingdom tells of his own story and of the inspiration of Exmoor; specially selected articles will enlighten and inform; Festivals and Events, attractions, activities and places to visit offer something for everyone; and our selection of the best shops, the finest places to eat and places to stay are included to help you enjoy your stay.

We look forward to welcoming you!

Inside this Issue 4 6 8 9 10 11 12 13 16 18 19

Johnny Kingdom’s Exmoor Festivals & Events 2009 Something for Everyone Local Attractions & Activities Louisa Lifeboat & 1952 Flood Rags to Riches to Railways North Devon & Exmoor Gardens Exmoor Outdoors & Active Unique & Special Wildlife The Valley of Rocks ‘Walking Capital of Exmoor’

USEFUL TELEPHONE NUMBERS Barnstaple Hospital (01271) 322577 Lynton Health Centre (01598) 753226 Minor Injuries Unit (01598) 753310 Out of Hours Doctor Service (0845) 6710270 NHS Direct (0845) 4647 Lynton Chemist (01598) 753377 Lynton Post Office (01598) 753313 Lynton Tourist Information (01598) 752225 Lynton Town Hall (01598) 752384 National Park Visitor Centre (01598) 752509 Lynton Cinema (01598) 753243 Police (08452) 777444

20 22 23 24 25 26 28 30 32 39 40

Long Walks Guide Short Strolls & Village Views Exmoor Photo Competition Shopping Guide Arts & Crafts Centre Literary Exmoor Good Eating Out Guide Exploring Exmoor Accommodation Guide 21 Mile Scenic Drive Lynton & Lynmouth Map

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS The 11th edition of the Lynton & Lynmouth Scene has been produced by the Lyn Association of Commerce and Tourism, LACT. The volunteer committee: Helen Dockery; Richard Briden; Stuart Heslop; Kelvin Jacobs; Keith Gray and Anne Wilford; thank all those who have made contributions. With thanks to :Eric Hewlett for procuring advertisements; Inventive Print Solutions, Take One Media and Wyndeham Heron for their help; Neville Stanikk for Front cover image; Lynton & Lynmouth Town Council and all our advertisers.

All reasonable efforts have been made to ensure the accuracy of information in Scene 2009 and any advice that may make future additions more useful to readers is welcome. All advertisements are the responsibility of the relevant advertiser and the publishers of Scene cannot be held liable for any statement made or implied in any advertisement.

www.lyntonandlynmouthscene.co.uk • 3

KINGDOM’S EXMOOR Johnny Kingdom - ‘Exmoor personified’ It might well be claimed by those who know him that Johnny Kingdom epitomises Exmoor. His native passion for the area, his variety of knowledge, his personal background and experiences, his depth of understanding as revealed in his photography and writings all contribute to that mystery and uniqueness of this much loved area.

Johnny Kingdom is the Exmoor countryside made ‘flesh’, his work shows how integral both the landscape and the creatures of Exmoor have been to his life. His T.V. presentations, with his natural humour and local dialect have served to confirm such an opinion.

Johnny has lived his whole life on Exmoor, he has been a farm worker, a quarry man, a lumberjack, a poacher and his local parish grave digger. He firmly believes his remarkable career progression to wildlife photographer, film maker and popular television wildlife presenter was shaped by one event, one unforgettable loan from a friend and the inspiration provided by Exmoor.

Johnny writes: ‘Exmoor, North Devon and the wildlife within this unique unspoilt area have always held a very special place in my life ever since I was a young boy growing. up in High Bray, a small village in North Devon near Brayford.

One of my earliest memories of Lynton and Lynmouth is the awesome views of the prehistoric looking Valley of Rocks. When I was a boy I was there with my brother in law Derek Sharp scrambling along the 600 foot high cliffs trying to spot as many different birds and animals as we could. The magnificent towering cliffs, the blue sea crashing hundreds of feet below, the birds squawking so loudly and the views across the channel and along to Woody Bay are some of my earliest memories of my first love of Exmoor.

To show the affection I have for the area, I was honoured to be able to agree when I was asked, to open the new season at the Lynton and

Barnstaple Railway at Woody Bay and the Lynton Food Festival last year.

From those days in my youth when visitors to Exmoor and its special places like Lynton and Lynmouth mostly came on holiday to the area by bus and conservation and wildlife photography was in its infancy, to now, the whole area still remains an unspoilt haven for people to enjoy. I thoroughly recommend Exmoor to anyone with an interest in the outdoors, especially for the spectacular scenery, wooded valleys, a great coastline and the chance to see the magnificent red deer.

Many people do not know that my work to help promote Exmoor, its people and wildlife, and which started my journey to become a wildlife photographer and film maker, developed as a result of my nearly being killed. When I was a selfemployed lumberjack I had a terrible accident when a chain that holds the

Exmoor is a unique and fantastic area to visit, as unique and fantastic as is the loveable character – Johnny Kingdom

4 • www.lyntonandlynmouthscene.co.uk

anchor broke causing the anchor to go to ground and the hydraulic arm to smash through my cab and hit me in the face. I was working alone at the time and after regaining consciousness was fortunate to be able to stagger to my vehicle and drive out of the lonely woodland for help. My road to recovery was long, but whilst I was getting better I was lent a video camera by my friend Roger Gregory to give me something to focus on. With this and the opportunity of time, I watched Exmoor’s magnificent wildlife, which I have loved since being a small boy. The loan of the video camera and these times, I will never forget and they shaped my life.

I continued from those days to gain more and more experience videoing and photographing animals on Exmoor, working then, to provide some form of income, digging graves in the local parish. I learnt that time and patience was key to understanding the behaviour of Exmoor’s wildlife and to getting that great shot. Realising these demands on my time and patience, I am sure enabled me to now work as a wildlife film maker and photographer of Exmoor. Work that I thoroughly love and relish. This has been the best thing I have ever done and achieved.

it’s just wonderful. I think one of the best views on Exmoor is when you are driving towards Simonsbath, a small village near the centre of Exmoor, and coming from the South Molton direction, cast your eye over to the left to see the River Barle, you get one of the best views of a mile up the river.

Of course living on Exmoor has another special aspect that means so much to me, its unique wildlife.

I love the hardy and unique Exmoor Pony and their autumn round up, filming wild boar, the red deer, foxes, badgers, falcons, stoats, sparrow hawks, and all the fascinating wildlife in Exmoor. My main love has to be the red deer of Exmoor and these are so special and important to the area.

They have a beautiful russet colour to blend in with the autumnal beech and bracken in my favourite season when you can watch the rutting stags.

Anyone walking on Exmoor has the chance to see one of these red deer if they are observant and patient. My most exciting encounter on Exmoor was at Anstey Common with a big stag about four years ago: I had been following him for about three days and he eventually decided he was not too happy being filmed. I ended up in an

awkward position with a pheasant pen behind me and a wire fence in front.

The stag jumped the fence with his hinds following, landing next to where I was. Without me being able to move anywhere the stag gave a deafening roar and came right up to my face.

I was still filming! I had some great shots but it was extremely frightening.

Now I hope I have conveyed to you a little of the essence of Exmoor and hopefully you can understand why I love the area and its wildlife so much.

If you are staying on Exmoor or just passing through, I hope this short introduction will provide some insight to what you can expect and that I have given a helpful snapshot of this unique environment.’

Johnny Kingdom currently has two books on sale: ‘A Wild Life On Exmoor’ – a biography and ‘Bambi and Me’ – the story of his ‘dear friend Bambi’, the three legged deer.

These and the DVDs of his BBC2 series are available locally.

He also has many other DVDs and other items for sale on his website www.johnnykingdom.co.uk, and he takes out safari trips all over Exmoor.

Exmoor is my home, where I have lived all of my life and the place I love.

Some people ask me what the best things about living on Exmoor are, and I say there are so many things that come to mind, it is just such a wonderful place and the people are so friendly. The landscape of Exmoor, with rivers running through the moors that you can see for miles and miles,

www.lyntonandlynmouthscene.co.uk • 5

Lyn Food Fest Autumn 2009 Autumn is a splendid time to get your fix of Exmoor, and what better place than the Lyn Food Fest? In October 2008 the second food festival was held. With record numbers attending and opened by wild life enthusiast Johnny Kingdom it was a success from the start. Walking around the festival it was obvious to see that the variety of produce available on Exmoor is tremendous.

What might you find at the festival?

Pig’s Nose, Slack-me-Girdle, Sugar Bush, Tremlett’s Bitter, Beef Apple, and Greasy Butcher!

What are these? If you were a Devon foodie, you’d know that these are names of local Devon apples! With large supermarket chains supplying food from across the globe, visitors got local

LYNTON & LYNMOUTH

MUSIC FESTIVAL

and discovered traditional treasures to excite their palettes where Exmoor meets the sea!

Succulent Exmoor lamb beautiful, and plentiful – as you may have noticed on your drive across the moors. Local dairy products are some of the best in the country with cheeses like the famous Exmoor Blue that stings the palette, beautiful mature cheddars that crumble and have a slight crunch due to the salt that has crystallised in the maturing process and a wide variety of goat, sheep and cow’s milk cheeses from the area.

Devonshire clotted cream is a favourite of tourists, who look out for tea rooms and cafes to enjoy the rich sumptuous pleasure of an afternoon cream tea.

As well, local fish was on offer, with Lynmouth lobster plentiful, local wild sea bass, and flavourful bream, to name a few.

In autumn you will feel privileged to be in Exmoor as the game is unparalleled: venison, rabbit and pheasant, not to mention mushrooms, apples and wild garlic – a rare gastronomic treat. It is highly recommended to sample a local cider at any time of year, but especially in autumn!

www.lyntonandlynmouth.info

THE WEEKEND of 12-14 June 2009 will see the best ever Lynton and Lynmouth Music and Arts Festival, or LLAMA for short. From humble beginnings the festival has grown in reputation and is now seen as very much “on the map” as far as contemporary music is concerned.

LLAMA has much to offer. The festival is completely free and it takes place in and around the twin villages – on open-air stages and in more intimate indoor venues. All are welcome. A shuttle bus service operates between locations (for a small charge).

LLAMA also stands out for the beauty of its location, with the sea on one side and the Exmoor hills on the other. There’s nowhere to beat it.

June 12, 13 & 14

What could be more warming after a brisk autumn walk than a local beef stew or succulent steak? Exmoor beef is worldrenowned for its flavour and highest quality. Local food producers claim that the reason for the special flavour of local food lies in the fact that countryside in Exmoor is so unspoilt and pure and there is a special flavour of the sea air.

The festival included cooking demos and mouth watering samples of local food.

October 2009 will bring you another chance to enjoy the delights of this very special Exmoor food fest.

The 2009 Lyn Food Fest will be organised

by MAPLE.

Then there is the quality of the acts. One of the principle aims of the festival has always been to bring quality, cutting edge music to North Devon and audiences each year are presented with a varied programme.

Last year saw an afternoon in St Mary’s

6 • www.lyntonandlynmouthscene.co.uk

Church which offered Charles Hazlewood playing Bach, and a 27 piece choir. Then Keith Allen’s pub covers band had them rolling in the aisles. Experimental but always accessible, LLAMA surprises and delights.

The festival is refreshingly non-commercial, non-profit making and organised and staffed entirely by volunteers. It is done purely for its own sake and bands and audience alike make a weekend of it by camping locally or staying in one of the area’s many hotels and B&Bs. This year there will be more surprises.

Eccentric, intimate, bold and imaginative.

Book your accommodation for LLAMA now! www.llama.org.uk

North Devon & Exmoor Walking Festival 2009

FESTIVALS & EVENTS

30th April to 8th May

There are a wide choice of guided walks on offer, more than half being within Exmoor.

This will be the 9th walking festival, attracting many enthusiastic walkers to the area. The guides are made up of locals, rangers, wardens and landowners, and the standard walks range from half-day walks of about 3 miles up to full day 11 mile walks.

There is something for all abilities, from the experienced to those new to walking, the friendly guides add the extra local knowledge to make the countryside come alive.

To give you just a taste here below are of some of the exciting speciality walks we have for 2009: - Photographic walks with a local photographer - Bush craft walks with tracking on Exmoor - Birds of prey walk with Exmoor Falconry - Walk along the Exmoor Mineral Line - Red deer and Exmoor pony search walks - Learn navigation walk on Exmoor - Woody Bay Light Railway family walks - Lundy Island day out and walk - History walks with Exmoor Rangers Quality is what this festival is all about; quality guides, quality walks and quality scenery, no walks are ever repeated, keeping up the standard. You’ll love it!

www.walkingnorthdevon.co.uk

The Excellence of Exmoor This October it is planned in conjunction with Lyn Food Fest to create a brand new event, “The Excellence of Exmoor.” It will take place on The Manor Grounds in Lynmouth and will be showcasing the craftsmen and skilled tradesman from all over Exmoor. Skills such as spinning, watercolour painting, jewellery design, thatching and woodturning will be amongst those on display. For the animal lovers there will be a falconry display, alpacas to pet and some slightly more unusual creatures to see and touch, accompanied by their keeper, from Exmoor Zoo.

Lynmouth Raft Race AUgUST 2009 ORGANISED BY LYN LIONS Every year dozens of rafts, some built for speed and some for fancy dress, take part in a procession along Riverside Road until they reach the slipway. The race goes out to sea around a buoy and back to the harbour.

Be careful as flour bombs and buckets of water are abound. Capsizing is not uncommon and great fun is had by all. This is a superb event in a magical setting.

Mini Rally AUgUST BANK HOLIDAY MONDAY 2009 One of the largest collections of the famous Mini travel through Lynton and Lynmouth on Bank Holiday Monday. They range from the veteran to the new and many are decorated in fancy dress along with their owners. Last year around 200 Minis came to town with much hooting and good fun and all for a good cause.

February Snowdrop Valley, Wheddon Cross Lyn Line Dancers, Lynton Star Trek Challenge Night Walk March Exmoor 4x4 Jaunt & Challenge West Somerset Railway Steam Gala Lyn Line Dancers, Lynton April Rotary Exmoor Challenge Walk Betta Somerset Stages Rally The Southwest MTB Challenge Lorna Doone Fancy Dress Ride May N. Devon & Exmoor Walking Fest The Golden Horseshoe, Exford Exmoor Folk Festival, Brendon Parracombe Revels Fun Day South Molton Vintage Rally Exmoor Hunt Point to Point Devon County Show, Exeter Endurance Life Coastal Marathon Tour of Wessex Cycling Event Hunting the Earl of Rone C. Martin June North Devon Festival Lynton & Lynmouth Music Festival Exmoor Sheep Dog Trials UK Ironman Trialthlon, Wimbleball Exmoor Perambulation Walk Coast To Coast Endurance Walk Dunster Archery Week South Molton Olde English Fayre Ilfracombe Victorian Week Ilfracombe Golf Club Open Week July Woody Bay Beer Festival Lyn In Bloom Ilfracombe Power Boat Weekend Porlock Country Fair Lynton & Lynmouth Open Gardens Lyn Line Dancers, Lynmouth Brendon Hills Sheepdog Trials Tour Of Exmoor Cycling Event August Brendon Show Lynmouth Raft Race Lyn Lions Fun Day, Lynmouth National Trust Fete, Lynmouth Lynmouth Flower Festival, Scarecrow Festival North Devon Show North Devon Mini Rally Dunster Show Combe Martin Carnival Week Watchet Music Festival Lyn Line Dancers, Lynmouth West Molland Tetrathlon Exmoor Explorer MTB Nocturne Cycling Event September The Doone Run Porlock Festival of Arts Lyn Barn Railway Autumn Fair South Molton Carnival Lyn Line Dancers, Lynmouth Tour Of Britain Cycling Event October Exmoor Food Festival Lyn Food Fest Two Moors Music Festival Brendon Pony Sales Exmoor Stumble & Stagger November Exmoor Beast Cyclo Sportif Lynton Farmers Market December Light Up Lynton Shopping Dunster By Candlelight Lyn Barn Railway Santa Specials

www.lyntonandlynmouthscene.co.uk • 7

Out & About

- something for everyone

Lynton & Lynmouth offer a fine choice of attractions with something for each and everyone to enjoy; a short venture away, you’ll find gardens for all, fun at the zoo, flying falcons & hawks and alpaca walks; there are great days out for wildlife spotting or fun, with safaris on Exmoor, sailings to Lundy and rides on open top buses.

Lynton & Lynmouth will tempt you away from the car for a great day out and about with plenty for both young and old to enjoy Enjoy an afternoon browsing the good variety of shops with something of interest for everyone and for all your holiday needs. For art lovers there are galleries to peruse and don’t miss the Arts and Crafts centre with a wide variety of wares from artisans and craftspeople across Exmoor.

There’s discovery and intrigue at the local Lyn & Exmoor Museum where historians will enjoy discovering our past and all will be intrigued by its tale of a ghost. Learn all about the tragic flood of 1952; with a visit to the Lynmouth Flood Memorial Hall; and a short walk up the river to Middleham Gardens, a memorial to the hamlet lost in the flood.

For pure entertainment in the outdoors do not miss a cricket match played on possibly the most picturesque cricket pitch in the country, in the Valley of Rocks. Enjoy another great tradition watching the local Morris dancers or while away an evening enjoying the more contemporary Lyn Line Dancers

seen dancing the night away, weekly throughout the summer. For something inside, there’s big screen entertainment with a warm small town welcome at Lynton Cinema, open daily and screening the latest releases.

Activities for young and old alike, activities for all: the children will just love the Manor Grounds with its play area, tennis court and putting green, while there are several excellent golf courses nearby for the little more mature.

The ‘big kids’ among us will want to ride on the narrow gauge steam train from Woody Bay Station and all will be fascinated by the water powered Cliff Railway travelling between Lynton and Lynmouth.

Our shores and seas have a wealth of wildlife and on Lynmouth beach there’s great fun to have for everyone young and old alike: strolling the seafront, beachcombing and rockpooling, with regular ‘Seaside Safaris’ organised

by Exmoor National Park during the summer. Please make sure you take care and be aware of the tide.

8 • www.lyntonandlynmouthscene.co.uk

Whatever you choose we hope you enjoy your stay and come back again soon.

Attractions

- something for everyone

Lynton Cinema Big screen entertainment with a warm small town welcome

www.lyntoncinema.co.uk Enquiries: 01598 753397 Booking Line: 01598 753243

Exmoor Falconry & Animal Farm Activities

Allerford Nr Porlock TA24 8HJ

Attractions

Telephone 01643 862816

• Falconry Experience Days • Hawk Walks • Alpaca Walks • Horse Riding • Pony Rides • B&B • Open Daily 10-5 • Flying Displays • Meet and talk to the animals

South Stowford Bratton Fleming Nr. Barnstaple EX31 4SG

01598 763352

Email: exmoorzoo@btconnect.com

• Keeper Talks • Spider Phobia • Snakes Alive!

• Animal Encounters • The Really Slow Show • African Cafe • Animal Feeding Times • Picnic Area • Children’s Playground ...and much more!

www.exmoorzoo.co.uk www.lyntonandlynmouthscene.co.uk • 9

Heroic Journey of the Louisa

Flood Devastates Devon Village

Thursday 12th January 1899

Friday 15th August 1952

On the evening of Thursday 12th January 1899 a telegram was received for the coxswain of the Lynmouth lifeboat, the Louisa. A large ship on its way from Bristol to Liverpool, the 1900 ton 18 man three masted Forrest Hall, was drifting ashore at Porlock.

The worst post-war flooding disaster in Britain took place in the North Devon village of Lynmouth in August 1952 and speculation over the cause of the flooding has raged ever since the tragedy happened.

More than 50 years later questions are still being asked about this shocking disaster.

Watchet reported that the severe weather prevented them from launching their boat, so the Lynmouth boat was the ship’s only hope.

One of the severest gales ever had been blowing all day, it was clear that the Louisa could not be launched at Lynmouth.

Not to be beaten the decision was taken, the coxswain proposed taking the lifeboat by road up Countisbury Hill, over Exmoor and down Porlock Hill, a total of nearly 14 miles, to the more sheltered harbour at Porlock Weir.

The combined efforts of some 20 horses and 100 local men eventually brought the boat to the top of Countisbury. Most of the helpers exhausted from their efforts gave up here, leaving only 20 men to help the crew for the rest of the journey.

After navigating many dangerous and hazardous obstacles pulling and pushing the Louisa they eventually reached Porlock Weir almost 12 hours later at 6:30am the following morning. The crew, although exhausted and hungry, immediately launched their lifeboat.

It took an hour to reach the Forrest Hall, which had drifted perilously close to the rocks. The lifeboat escorted the ship to a safe haven before finally returning by sea some 41 hours later to Lynmouth, arriving at 11.30am on Saturday January 14th so completing one of the most remarkable events in the annals of the RNLI. On January 12th, 1999, the centenary of this epic episode, the communities of Lynton and Lynmouth in celebration of their forefathers re-enacted this celebrated event hauling an historic replica lifeboat to Porlock.

The flooding occurred after 9ins/230mm of rain fell in 24 hours, the downpour caused, a raging torrent in the steep, narrow valleys leading into Lynmouth, to surge down from Exmoor bursting forth creating massive walls of water that carried huge boulders into the village.

In all 34 people were killed, 39 buildings collapsed, 4 main road bridges were swept away and hundreds were left homeless.

The normally picturesque holiday village was evacuated as the army were drafted in to begin clearing up the devastation.

The Queen sent a message of sympathy, local policeman, Derek Harper, was awarded the George Medal for the part he played in rescuing people from the flood and 13 other local people received bravery awards.

In 2001, an investigation discovered that classified documents on secret experiments had gone missing, survivors had told of how the air smelled of sulphur on the day of the floods and that the rain was so hard, it hurt people’s faces. Fresh evidence was unearthed about the alleged experiment, including RAF logbooks and personal testimony, however the Ministry of Defence denied any knowledge of the so-called ‘cloudseeding’ experiments during early August 1952.

On the 50th anniversary of the disaster a special memorial service was held with a wooden cross being erected overlooking the river in memory of the victims.

Contemporary photographs and a scale model of the village at the time of the flood are on display in Lynmouth Flood Memorial Hall.

Photos courtesy of Bill Prior

10 • www.lyntonandlynmouthscene.co.uk

Sir George Newnes

Rags to Riches to Railways

Lynton & Lynmouth owe a great deal to one very generous benefactor, browse through any book on the area and the name George Newnes keeps cropping up. Born in 1851 in Matlock Derbyshire the son of a Congregational church minister, he was working as a Manchester haberdasher when in 1881 he had an instant publishing success launching a popular penny magazine of short items called Tit-Bits.

Education was improving, the public was avid for light entertainment and miscellaneous information, and the first man in Britain to realise this ‘New Journalism’ was George Newnes. Other magazine titles followed including The Strand Magazine, in which Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, a close personal friend, was first able to publish his Sherlock Holmes mystery series, and Country Life.

Success followed success, his empire rapidly expanded; he became very wealthy and served as MP for Newmarket from 1885, becoming a baronet in 1895.

Newnes visited North Devon and fell in love with Lynton & Lynmouth becoming a key player in the development of the twin villages. The steep gradient between Lynton & Lynmouth had always been a deterrent to visitors and hard work for locals. He was always a man with an eye on the main chance and saw there was

an opportunity using the recently patented invention by a local engineer to lay track up the 1 in 1.75 gradient. The innovative water powered cliff railway cost £8,000 and opened in 1890.

George Newnes loved to holiday with his family in Lynton & Lynmouth and that same year bought Hollerday Hill, overlooking the village behind the town hall and built a summer residence there with work completed on the imposing mansion 3 years later.

Largely as a result of his efforts, the 19-mile Lynton & Barnstaple Railway opened in 1898 ostensibly to bring visitors from the main line railways at Barnstaple. Newnes was seen as being a great patron, but in truth he may have been less altruistic. By building a narrow gauge line terminating some distance from the town centre and linking to Barnstaple rather than Minehead, from where more people wanted to travel, it is believed that he may have been keen to preserve “Little Switzerland” for the wealthier classes.

Other gifts followed, Lynton Town Hall, the Congregational church and cricket pavilion and elsewhere Newnes financed an Antarctic expedition and gave liberally to the Salvation Army.

There seemed no end to his generosity, yet by 1908 there were rumours that his businesses were failing and with financial worries affecting his health, sadly by 1910 his fortune had gone and he died a broken man at Hollerday House.

To their shock and surprise, the Newnes family were saddled with debts, the mansion was put up for sale, three years it stood empty before in 1913 it burnt to the ground in very mysterious circumstances. Dead but not forgotten Sir George Newnes ideas, enthusiasm and money helped turn Lynton and Lynmouth into a fashionable seaside resort.

The Lynton & Lynmouth Cliff Railway still operates to this day powered only by water and has not broken down in its 119 years of operation. The Lynton & Barnstaple Railway, never a major revenue earner, closed in 1935 largely as a result of the motor car. Seventy years on, a group of enthusiasts are recreating the atmosphere of Newnes’ railway, and steam trains are once again carrying passengers along part of the old route from Woody Bay Station with a full programme of exciting events going on during the year for you to enjoy.

Railways Round Exmoor Combined DIscount Tickets Available

www.lyntonandlynmouthscene.co.uk • 11

The

Best Gardens

of North Devon and Exmoor

Especially chosen for our visitors are three gardens, each with an extra dimension, a mystery, a surprise or a secret to unravel.

Chambercombe Manor with its parklands is hidden in a secluded valley. The property is unique and intriguing, steeped in mystery and with a history dating from the Saxon Era. Guided tours of the manor are available offering a distinctly different day out.

New attractions to the manor’s parklands are being developed to complement the existing arboretum.

In contrast, Greencombe Gardens, overlooking the Bristol Channel was created in 1946 using only organic methods. A woodland garden has been developed which gives the impression that it has evolved naturally. In addition, it holds a surprise which can bring solace to the human spirit. Greencombe is privately owned and has many National Collections of named species.

Rosemoor, home of the Royal Horticultural Society, has many plant collections and numerous garden layouts illustrating every type of gardening expertise with attractions for every season. This stunning garden is a photographer’s dream. There is also a full programme of exciting and fascinating events going on throughout the year, designed with something for everyone to enjoy, whatever your age or interest.

We do hope you will enjoy these wonderful gardens, each designed to inspire or entertain.

Chambercombe Manor

Chambercombe Lane Ilfracombe EX34 9RJ

• Guided tours of a superb 11th Century farmhouse • Over 2 acres of formal gardens lake and pools • Extensive estate with woodland and streamside walks • Enjoy Lady Jane’s Tea Rooms • Quality holiday accommodation NOT YOUR USUAL DAY OUT!

www.chambercombemanor.org.uk • 01271 862624 Whatever happens, don’t miss

Greencombe Gardens The magic Exmoor garden overlooking Porlock Bay Open from the first Saturday in April to the last Sunday in July on Saturday, Sunday, Monday, Tuesday & Wednesday from 2pm to 6pm.

Come in April for Erythroniums (small mountain lilies); come late April for fragrant Rhododendrons; come in May for Azaleas; June & July for Lilies; Camellias throughout Spring.

Come any time for magic and wonder with the sea beyond Easy parking • Wheelchair access • ‘Make your own tea’ facilities • Good plants for sale

Admission £6 Under 16s £1 No dogs Signposted off B road from Porlock to Porlock Weir (at bottom of Porlock Hill)

01643 862 363 www.greencombe.org.uk

12 • www.lyntonandlynmouthscene.co.uk

Exmoor Outdoors and Active Exmoor provides a great base to enjoy so many outdoor activities, there’s an endless list: from wildlife spotting on foot to 4 x 4 safari: from photo shoots to clay and game shoots: exploring Exmoor’s landscape by foot, on 2 wheels or on horseback: or experiencing its wild terrain by, fishing, surfing, abseiling, rock climbing or canoeing.

Exmoor for walking: Walks for all Long walks for walkers, short walks for pleasure and easy access trails. Exmoor has them all!

There are two walks from Lynton & Lynmouth that are a must for nature lovers and those preferring a short walk and both have car parking at or nearby enabling all to enjoy these famous beauty spots: - the Victorian North Walk path from Lynton to the Valley of Rocks with breathtaking views of the cliffs and sea across to the Welsh coast.

- the riverside walk from Lynmouth along the deeply wooded East Lyn river to Watersmeet where spectacular waterfalls can be seen.

For those with limited mobility, nearby Wistlandpound at Blackmoor Gate and Weir Water at Robbers Bridge offer wheelchair accessible trails for all to enjoy.

Details of long distance trails, a long walk route and short village strolls are included on further pages.

Exmoor for cycling: Cycling and mountain bike trails If wheels are your thing Exmoor has some of the most varied cycle trails in the country, cyclists will enjoy the challenge of the steep climbs and heart stopping downhill’s, set amid the most spectacular scenery.

For a challenging route follow the Exmoor Cycle Route, a 56 mile Tour of Britain circuit, or the Culbone Way, Regional Route 51, a popular trail from Minehead over Exmoor to Ilfracombe.

For pleasure and a little more genteel exercise then take to the Tarka Trail along the estuary from Barnstaple to Braunton or Bideford.

‘Just Ride Exmoor’, based in Lynmouth can provide bikes of all shapes and sizes, in fact everything you need for a day out by bike.

Exmoor for fishing: Hook line & sinker Fishing along some of Exmoor’s most stunning rivers, the East Lyn, Exe and Barle you may be rewarded with a trout or even a salmon, while locally well stocked fisheries include Wistlandpound at nearby Blackmoor

Gate. Good sea fishing can be had at the right tides from Lynmouth harbour with grey mullet, sea bass and wrasse to be landed and also at nearby Woody Bay and Heddon’s Mouth.

Please always be aware of the changing tides - they are some of the fastest in the country.

Exmoor Extreme: The Ex in Exmoor?

If you like excitement and real adrenalin thrills Exmoor gives you the chance to try something a little more adventurous!

Lynmouth Bay with the right conditions provides excellent surfing for the experienced whilst the sandy beaches at Croyde and Woolacombe are popular for the professional and beginner alike. Hang-gliding and paragliding are both possible off Countisbury Hill near Lynmouth with coasteering and rock climbing all along Exmoor’s rugged coastline and remote hills. During autumn and winter the East Lyn provides both an excellent and challenging environment for canoeing. Further information on all of the above can be found at www.activeexmoor.com

www.lyntonandlynmouthscene.co.uk • 13

The Doone Run 26th Year: Still Running

Event planned for September 20th 2009 2009 will see the 26th annual Doone Run since 1983. The course has altered slightly over the years, but the one thing which hasn’t changed is its stunning Exmoor scenery, the legendary home of Lorna Doone, from which the Run has taken its name. The race is a great challenge. It is one of the toughest courses of its distance in the UK, encompassing paths and roads through wooded glades, along river banks, fell sided slopes and climbing over 2000 feet. Each year the race attracts both new and previous runners and spectators.

The race starts in Lynmouth and follows the wooded East Lyn Valley past Watersmeet and on to Hillsford Bridge. Then picking up part of the ‘Two Moors Way’ National Walk it’s up to the Iron Age fort of Myrtleberry camp, through Myrtleberry Cleaves, passing down into Lynbridge and on to Lynton. The course now takes its highest climb over South Cleave towards Lee Abbey with breath taking views over the Valley of Rocks, the home of Mother Meldrum, the legendary soothsayer in the Lorna Doone story. The race continues over the top of Southcliffe and down past the rock formation known as the White Lady into the Valley of Rocks. Then the homeward stretch picks up part of the famous South West Coast path and heads back down to sea level at Lynmouth.

Spectators’ vantage points include Lynmouth, Watersmeet, Hillsford Bridge, Lynbridge, and the Valley of Rocks.

Course records established in 2007: Nick Jenkin 1 hr 4 min 21 sec; Eloise Pittwood 1 hr 18 min 53 sec. 2008 results: Nick Jenkin Bideford AC 1 hr 5 min 59 sec taking the Exmoor Cup (donated by the Exmoor Trust): Catherine Newman of Bideford AC 1 hr 19 min 01 sec taking the Lynton & Lynmouth Cup (presented to the Doone Run by L.A.C.T.) Entry forms are available from The Denes, 15 Longmead, Lynton, Devon www.thedenes.com/DooneRun.htm Tel 01598 753573

Map ref: D2

14 • www.lyntonandlynmouthscene.co.uk

For the

BEST RIDING

on Exmoor

Choose from only the very best riding stables that Exmoor has to offer, horse riding is a popular way of discovering the National Park and whether riding on your own, with friends or as part of an organised trek, the views of moorland and wildlife are stunning, Exmoor is a truly great place to come and ride and what better way to explore over 250 square miles of National Park than on horseback.

Whether you just want a quiet hack through woodlands hoping for a glimpse of the wild deer, or an exhilarating canter over the heather-clad open moorland with far reaching views the choice is yours, but you can be certain of one thing, Exmoor is a very special place for riding.

BRENDON MANOR RIDING STABLES LTD

Ride over picturesque moors and the Lorna Doone Valley

Horses and ponies for hire Beginners and experienced riders catered for Hard hats supplied Virtually no road work The stables are situated on the B3223, 4 miles from Lynton and 5 miles from Simonsbath. For bookings and further details call Janet on:

01598 741246

Outovercott Riding Stables (easy to find on main A39 road between Barbrook & Parracombe)

A.B.R.S Approved Stables

• Open all year • Small accompanied rides • Families welcome • Ride along the Lyn valley, over the moor or around the coast • Suitable horses & ponies for all abilities of rider • Hard hats provided • Instruction available • Established 40 years under same family ownership

Telephone Lynton (01598) 753341 www.outovercott.co.uk

“In the Heart of Exmoor Country”

Burrowhayes Farm Riding Stables Tel: 01643 862463 Escorted rides to suit all abilities on Dunkery, Ley Hill & Seworthy Children’s ponies for parents to walk and lead Licensed by WSDC • Open from Easter to end of October Also popular family camping site • Just 1 mile east of Porlock off A39 West Luccombe, Porlock, Somerset TA24 8HT • www.burrowhayes.co.uk

Ride Exmoor with

Sparhanger Equestrian Centre Approved by the British Horse Society Ride with Sparhanger Equestrian Centre across the spectacularly beautiful and wild countryside of Exmoor.

We offer a choice of rides to suit all ages and all levels of ability from absolute beginners to advanced. You will ride on well schooled horses and be accompanied by trained experienced escorts.

Rides can be arranged from one hour up to a full day or longer riding holidays.

Rides begin by mounting up in our schooling arena, where we spend a few minutes to ensure you are happy with your horse and it is suited to your ability, before we head out for your adventure of discovery on Exmoor.

We take pride in the quality of our horses and how we care for them. Come and see. We welcome visits.

Please call to make an appointment.

Contact Michelle or Chris Sparhanger Horsecare Barbrook, Lynton, North Devon EX 35 6LN Tel: (01598) 753283 or Mob: 07968 066973 Web: www.sparhanger@btinternet.com

www.lyntonandlynmouthscene.co.uk • 15

Unique & Special Wildlife to be seen on Exmoor The Exmoor Pony still runs free living on Exmoor and is, to most people’s surprise, rarer than the Giant Panda! It is one of Britain’s oldest breeds of pony and the nearest breed to the original wild horses of Europe. Stocks fell dramatically close to extinction in the 1940’s to only 50 ponies and just four stallions; stocks have increased to 1000 but this rare animal is still classified as endangered by the Rare Breeds Survival Trust.

Before the 1950’s almost all of the Exmoor ponies lived on Exmoor, however current day grazing limitations restrict the number that can stay here. The pony has been recruited for habitat management outside of Exmoor, helping to conserve the breed, and small numbers have also been exported, including the most famous of our Exmoor emigrants that formed

Exmoor’s spectacular and varied landscape provides a truly special home for many forms of wildlife, some are extremely rare and others are not found growing or living freely anywhere else in the world!

part of the ’Noah’s Ark’ shipment of livestock sent to the Falklands after the war in 1983. The Exmoor herds of fewer than 200 ponies that roam freely and breed in their natural habitat, are truly unique. Each one has a name, branding marks, and an owner. Each autumn the herds are brought in from the moor for inspection and branding of foals that meet the pure breed requirements.

The Red Deer of Exmoor forms the largest concentration of red deer in Britain, living in the only place where they have roamed truly wild since pre-historic times, surviving here through their protection as Royal Game in Exmoor Forest. Descriptions by the naturalist and writer Richard Jeffries, from his book Red Deer, published in 1884, are still as fitting today.

There is a small herd at The Valley of Rocks and free living herds nearby include those on Porlock Common and a breeding herd on Lanacombe towards Simonsbath. See them in action at the Exmoor Show in August, or get really close to them at the Exmoor Pony Centre that works with the Moorland Mousie Trust to help conserve the breed. Always approach free living ponies quietly and slowly. Please never feed or try to handle the ponies.

‘There is no more beautiful creature than a stag in his pride of antler, his coat of ruddy gold, his grace of form and motion...

The branching antlers accord so well with the deep shadowy boughs

16 • www.lyntonandlynmouthscene.co.uk

and the broad fronds of the brake; the golden red of his coat fits to the foxglove, the purple heather, and later on to the orange and red of the beech; his easy bounding motion springs from the elastic sward; his limbs climb the steep hill as if it were level; his speed covers the distances, and he goes from place to place as the wind. He not only lives in the wild, wild woods and moors - he grows out of them, as the oak grows from the ground. The noble stag in his pride of antler is lord and monarch of all the creatures left to us in English forests and on English hills.’

hide away, and will be hard to spot. Join one of the deer walks with a National Park Ranger or take an Exmoor 4x4 Safari with its knowledgeable guide, to spot this wonderful creature.

Rowan berries, the Whitebeam berries are edible and were once sold in local markets under the name of ‘French Hales’. Some varieties can be seen around Watersmeet.

The Valley of Rocks is the home to a colourful herd of horned feral roaming goats, whose history goes back to Neolithic times. The Valley’s high and exposed cliffs also provide a sanctuary for much sea bird life, including guillemot, razorbill, and the rare peregrine falcon. The goats are rarely intimidated by people, but please keep dogs under control. The sea birds are best seen by boat from Lynmouth.

Catch a glimpse of these wild and shy creatures in the early morning or at dusk in wooded areas; in summer grazing on the moors; in October when the rutting season starts and stags compete for the control of a group of hinds, this is the time to watch out for them bolting across the open roads. After the stags shed their antlers in March - April and the hinds start to have their calves, they

Three of the eleven British varieties of Whitebeam Trees are found nowhere else in the world. Related to

There is also one other creature yet to be fully identified - the legendary Exmoor Beast. Thought to have been responsible for the high level of sheep found killed in the 1980’s the army was called in to shoot or capture the animal. Never caught, tracks continued to be found and sightings made, usually described as a black catlike creature about four feet long with a long tail and looking like a puma. To this day, events that occur in the wild of Exmoor, that cannot be fully explained, are often believed to be the exploits of the mysterious Beast of Exmoor!

The only guide line here is ‘Watch Out!

The protected High Brown Fritillary, and the Marsh and Heather Fritillary are some of the most endangered British butterflies; Exmoor’s habitat is one of its last bastions. There are National Park Butterfly walks in June and July.

www.lyntonandlynmouthscene.co.uk • 17

Take a trip to another place, another time…

The Valley of Rocks Imagine it. A vast valley shaped like a shallow bowl, around it a ring of towering rocks - The Devil’s Cheesewring, Castle Rock, Ragged Jack - sculptured into strange shapes by the wind, twisted trees dotted about on the gorse and the bracken-covered lower slopes. A buzzard spirals lazily overhead.

This valley is so unusual you just might wonder whether you are on another planet or back in prehistoric times. This awe inspiring place is the Valley of Rocks, one of the most stunning and dramatic landscapes in the West Country – and it’s just a mile from the bustling centre of Lynton. Situated about 600ft above sea level, the valley is also the place for breath-taking views of the Bristol Channel and the Welsh coast beyond. No wonder it’s so popular with visitors.

Of course, if it’s solitude you seek, you need to be there in winter. Go in summer and, whilst climbers confidently scale sheer rock faces around you, enjoy tea and cakes on Mother Meldrum’s lawn; or watch the cricket from one of the benches dotted along an upper path, the thwack of the ball and polite clapping bringing back memories of more genteel times. Especially not to be missed is the sunset, with the reddening ball hanging over the sparkling sea.

The valley is rich in wildlife; goldcrest, linnets, stonechats and whinchats join the more common small birds as well as kestrels and peregrine falcons. On the faces of the sea cliffs colonies of birds such as guillemots, razorbills and kittiwakes raise their young. To see a gull flying along below you is amazing.

18 • www.lyntonandlynmouthscene.co.uk

A more unusual resident is the valley’s unique herd of feral goats. It’s entertaining but nerve-racking to see them scrambling over the rocks, or peering from a narrow ledge up in the sky, though they’re very sure-footed and rarely get into trouble. To enjoy the newborn kids playing tag, visit the valley in spring before the vegetation has grown tall. In autumn you may hear the clash of horns as the rut begins and the billies do battle.

These hardy British native goats form an important part of a grazing project which has been set up to ensure this unique site is maintained as it should be.

A small herd of Exmoor ponies has also been introduced to the valley in order to keep down the bracken. Together they do a brilliant job, and also provide some wonderful photo opportunities - so don’t forget your camera.

To reach the valley follow the signs from the centre of Lynton or follow in the footsteps of the first tourists to Lynton, and take a leisurely stroll of breath-taking beauty, along North Walk built in 1817.

Car parking is also available at the Valley of Rocks.

From Jan Mazzoni, author of ‘The Snow Fox Diaries’, who lived on Exmoor for many years and returns as often as she can.

The Walking Capital of Exmoor Lynton and Lynmouth, situated in Exmoor National Park on the North Devon coastline, with a variety of spectacular scenery and interests, make an excellent base to explore the wonderful choice of coastal and moorland footpaths and bridleways.

No less than four National Walking Trails pass through the twin villages, where you can leave the car behind, to pick up the routes or follow one of the many shorter local walks.

The walks not only give access to the beauty and tranquility of Exmoor’s landscapes, but they bring to life the legend, the great stories and the romance, that unravel the history and intrigues of the area. Many walks retain the same atmosphere of the centuries gone by. You can retrace the footsteps of the inhabitants of those times, and feel the magic that has inspired so many visitors, artists and writers.

Famous local walks include: • Wonderful Watersmeet is reached by following the banks of the East Lyn river from Lynmouth, through one of Britain’s deepest wooded gorges. The National Trust tearooms, originally built as a fishing lodge in 1832, provide refreshments in a beautiful glade, on reaching famous Watersmeet.

• The Awesome Valley of Rocks, minutes from Lynton, is where you can explore this strange and unique pre-historic outcrop of rocks, or spot some of Exmoor’s unique wildlife, including the valley’s own feral goats and the Exmoor ponies. Buzzards and peregrine falcons are occasionally seen too.

• North Walk Cliff Path, direct from Lynton, is a spectacular part of the South West Coast Path, with wonderful views across the Bristol Channel, and leads to the Valley of Rocks around Hollerday Hill.

There are paths that lead up to Hollerday Hill, first to the ruins of Sir George Newnes’ mansion and tennis courts and then on to the summit and the iron-age Hill Fort.

Experience part of one or more of the four famous National Walking Trails that come through the villages: • The South West Coast Path ‘Created through history by fishermen, farmers, miners, smugglers, coastguards and soldiers’ - Visit stretches of this magnificent 630 mile South West walk stretching from Minehead to Poole. Join it at Lynton or Lynmouth to enjoy the spectacular coastline towards Porlock or Heddons Mouth and Combe Martin.

• The Samaritans Way South West - A journey through the countryside, 100 miles from Bristol to Lynton. From the Brendon Hills, the route heads into the heart of Exmoor, picking up stretches of the river Exe to Exford and then through the famous Doone Valley and Badgeworthy Water on to Lynton. The Doone Valley is the legendary setting for the savage deeds of the outlaw Doone family and the story of the beautiful hostage Lorna Doone wooed by the heroic local wrestler John Ridd.

• The Tarka Trail - Pick up the trail of ‘Tarka the Otter’ from the classic novel by Henry Williamson first published in 1927.

A 180 mile epic journey through Dartmoor, Exmoor and North Devon, where some areas have changed little since Williamson’s descriptions of the 1920s. The route picks up the local highlights from the moorlands towards Hillsford Bridge, up onto Lynton’s high cleaves above the gorges of Lynmouth and on to the coastal path.

• The Two Moors Way - Linking Southern England’s two National Parks, Exmoor and Dartmoor, in a 182 mile walk finishing at Lynmouth. Climb from Lynmouth to enjoy the views above the Lynmouth gorge and later ‘the unspoilt rural scenery with a remote and tranquil feel difficult to find elsewhere in modern times’, on the moorland towards Simonsbath.

• The Coleridge Way - Follow in the footsteps of Coleridge’s travels in the South West - The official ‘Coleridge Way’ covers ground from Nether Stowey to Porlock.

Closer to Lynton and Lynmouth, walk the stretches that inspired the poems: The Rhyme of the Ancient Mariner and the Kubla Khan.

www.lyntonandlynmouthscene.co.uk • 19

Hidden Valleys, Dancing Streams Views to Remember Forever!

Walking Boots required!

Approx 8.75 miles with optional shorter 5 mile route. Circular.

Lynton to Watersmeet via Summerhouse Hill and Myrtleberry Cleave (2.75 miles) Optional return via riverside walk to Lynmouth & Lynton (2.25 miles)

Watersmeet to Countisbury via Rockford and Wilsham (3.5 miles) Countisbury to Lynton via Lynmouth (2.5 miles)

What a walk! Hidden valleys, dancing streams, views to remember forever, amazing wildlife, refreshments en-route...what else could you ask for?

Lynton - Summerhouse Hill Starting at Lynton Town Hall turn left walking towards Lynton village, turn right down Queen Street opposite the Valley of Rocks Hotel, on past the Crown Hotel and up steep Sinai Hill.100 yards up turn left onto the Lynway signposted to Lynbridge and follow this all the way to the road crossing at the Bridge Inn. Here, cross the road, go past the Bridge Inn to the bridge over the West Lyn river.

After crossing the bridge turn left signposted Watersmeet following the

20 • www.lyntonandlynmouthscene.co.uk

path that climbs and zig-zags up to a clearing. On the way up there are fascinating views of Lynbridge with its houses and hotels on the opposite side of the river and of the gorge and river below.

At the top, wow, here it is, one of the most vibrant and panoramic views in the Southwest with spectacular views of the village of Lynton across the valley: Lynmouth and the harbour down below: Wales across the sea: and Countisbury to the right.

Sit or stand on the bench, take pictures, enjoy the moment‌one of the most stunning and inspiring views you may ever see. Now you will see why poets artists and visitors have frequented the area for so many years... for inspiration.

Summerhouse Hill - Myrtlebury - Watersmeet

Watersmeet - Rockford Wilsham - Countisbury

Carry on along the main path straight ahead ignoring the signposts directed left to Lynmouth. Walking above Watersmeet Valley, with Lynton and Lynmouth fading from view, new fascinating vistas appear. Look down along the whole of the Watersmeet Valley, see the occasional car way below weaving along disappearing into the green valley side. Across the valley there are more wonderful aspects, see Wind Hill towards Countisbury, listen to the bird songs chime in your ears, really what could be better than this?

On leaving Watersmeet cross the bridge, turn left and follow the signs to Rockford. Walking along the river, you pass a cave and a bit further on you will find an old stone building, which was once an important local industry, a lime kiln.

Then the path goes down, down, down past Oxen Tor, over a brook, and back up to the valley top. Follow the sign to Watersmeet, ignoring the signpost to Hillsford Bridge, turning left down hill and down steep steps through Myrtleberry Cleave. Go past the old Iron Age settlement and a field that is full of wonderful bluebells in spring. Then its just a short walk, down some steps to the road and crossing over taking the footpath through the National Trust employees’ car park down, to Watersmeet.

Watersmeet This famous beauty spot is managed by the National Trust, and what a wonderful place to find that refreshments are served from the former Fishing Lodge, in the glade of the valley.

Here take a break, stand on the bridges watch the waterfalls, have a rest, and enjoy the atmosphere.

Now you can choose whether to follow on to complete the whole route to Countisbury and back to Lynmouth and Lynton, or take the shorter riverside walk straight back to Lynmouth and Lynton.

Proceed through Barton Wood, then cross the river by the wooden bridge, again following the signs to Rockford.

After some beautiful riverside walking you will reach Rockford village. Cross the footbridge, explore this picturesque village, maybe spotting trout in the river, on leaving, go back across the footbridge, retrace your steps for about 50 yards and follow the signpost to Wilsham. This gradient is long and unrelenting so take a break, sit down and recharge the batteries! The woodland scenery is captivating.

Once you come out of the wooded canopies at the top of the hill you come upon green fields and open views again. On entering a field which says “cross at your own risk” you wonder what may be the problem .... charging bulls, rampant adders, or scary locals ..... but when this was walked recently a herd of deer appeared over the crest of the field, what a wonderful sight!

Past Wilsham Farm, down a gulley, cross the small stream, and up the other side over Holden Head continue over the crest of the hill. Looking opposite you can see Myrtleberry Iron Age Settlement and the path which was taken down to Watersmeet earlier in the day. Another “grand view” as

they say, looking over Watersmeet, Summerhouse, Countisbury and back towards Rockford and Brendon.

A little further on you arrive at the cattle grid on the A39, with the signpost “Countisbury Hill, Gradient 1 in 4 at bottom.” Turn right past the cattle grid and carefully cross the road and walk via the entrance to Barna Barrow car park, through the car park bearing left by the stone wall towards the church. Then take the path bearing left, away from the radio mast, to the church.

Countisbury - Lynmouth - Lynton Arriving at Countisbury church you can decide whether to visit the lovely church or take refreshments at the Blue Ball Inn, before the descent to Lynmouth.

To visit the church or the Inn, go through the gate into the churchyard.

For the Inn continue down past the Yew tress to the gate and road, bearing right to the gate into the car park of the Blue Ball Inn. After refreshments at the Inn return back via the churchyard to continue the walk to Lynmouth.

From the back of the church follow the wall going away to your left, Lynton and Lynmouth are down in front of you. Follow the Coastal Path which again offers marvellous views all the way down to Lynmouth.

Arriving in Lynmouth cross the river and make your way to the sea front and the Esplanade. Now, a decision has to be made. Be a true walker and walk up the zig-zag path to Lynton (next to the railway), or take the train ...! It is up to you.

Once in Lynton, return along Lee Road to the Town Hall and take the last bracing steps.

2 recommended maps are Lynton & Lynmouth Walking Map, printed by CroydeCycle, and the OS Map OL9 which are available from The Studio in Lynton and all good shops.

www.lyntonandlynmouthscene.co.uk • 21

Short Strolls & Village Views Lynton, Lynmouth and Lynbridge. 3 Village Strolls

Walking Boots not required!

The Early Bird

The Zig-Zag Walk

River, Sea and Gardens

An early morning stroll from Lynton

Lynton to Lynmouth or vice versa

An afternoon stroll in Lynmouth

Time - 60 minutes Mainly a flat walk with 2 short uphill inclines.

Time - 20 minutes starting in Lynton, all down hill very steep, or reversing the walk from Lynmouth 35 minutes, all uphill very steep.

Time 50 minutes Mainly a flat walk with a short incline at the start.

Starting at St. Mary’s Church in Lynton, cross over the road and take the narrow pathway known as Pigs Lane down to Queen Street and the old village. At the end of Queen Street turn right into Lydiate Lane following the road to the top of the village turning sharp left into Station Hill.

Just where the road turns sharp left, there is a small public garden, the view from the bench gives you a wonderful glimpse towards the sea of the rock formations at the Valley of Rocks.

100 yards up Station Hill turn left into Normans Cleave and proceed downhill into Alford Terrace. Take in the views of Lynmouth bay, and across to Wales and see sleepy Lynton from above. At the bottom of the terrace cross straight into the Lynway and enjoy the peaceful walk through the woods to Lynbridge.

The only sounds you will hear will be the early morning bird songs.

Stop by the Bridge Inn, turn right and walk through to the little bridge where often you will see dippers on the rocks.

Re-trace your steps back past the Inn, bear right and follow the road towards Lynton and Lynmouth. Follow the path with the sounds of the tumbling waters of the West Lyn River all the way to the road junction where the pathway ends.

Turn left and walk up Castle Hill

to St Mary’s Church.

Starting at St Mary’s Church in Lynton proceed down North Walk Hill to the start of the historic Westerway - the old smugglers’ route, clearly signposted to Lynmouth after the first hotel on the right. This steep descent offers three exits into Lynmouth, each presenting numerous opportunities to enjoy the stunning views of Lynmouth bay and across to Wales.

Your options are: bear left at the first pathway junction sign posted ‘Coastal path’ to continue all the way down the Westerway, traversing the famous Cliff Railway, to the harbour near the Cliff Railway: or continue straight on at the first pathway junction taking the steep narrow roadway named Clooneavin Path, leading into Lynmouth by the bridge over the river; or after following the Westerway by bearing left at the first pathway junction take a right at the next pathway junction and then immediately left onto Mars Hill Way past the Rising Sun Hotel arriving in Lynmouth near the harbour.

Should you choose not to return to your starting point on foot via the 3 paths available, take the Cliff railway in season, a local bus (weekends only in winter) or local taxi.

Starting from the Rhenish Tower in Lynmouth cross over the road and take the pathway alongside the Rising Sun Hotel called Mars Hill Way bearing left at the top of the path heading inland to Lynmouth Hill. Look down on the views of Lynmouth Harbour and the river across the town. At the end of the path turn left down to Lynmouth crossing the West Lyn River that runs down from the Glenn Lyn Gorge on your right and follow on to the next bridge. At the bridge cross the road and turn right onto the footpath alongside the car park and follow the East Lyn River passing by the white foot bridge (without crossing) until you come to the tranquil memorial garden restored from the little hamlet of Middleham lost in the flood of 1952. At the end of the gardens cross over the wooden bridge and return towards the sea along the east bank of the river, this time crossing over the white footbridge back to the foot path to the road bridge. Turn right crossing the river again and cross the road to enter the Manor Green taking the driveway to the right that leads to the sea past the back of the Manor House.

As you approach the sea front turn left and follow the path alongside the sea through the Manor Green to the Rock House Hotel and the footbridge back across the river to the Rhenish Tower.

Take care when walking on or crossing roads.

22 • www.lyntonandlynmouthscene.co.uk

Exmoor Photo Competition See Your Images in Print - Enter Our 2009 Photo Competition

2 Olympus Cameras To Be Won!!

We believe everyone has an award winning magazine-quality photograph within them. The Lynton & Lynmouth Scene magazine is once again on the hunt for your best photographs of the year!

After the great success of the 2008 photo competition, we are proud to announce this year’s competition in conjunction with Olympus Cameras - manufacturer of some of the finest cameras in the world. The overall winner will be awarded the superb Olympus E410 SLR. Proposed by David Bailey, its size and weight are similar to the previous OM 35mm film camera series, and a retro leather case is included, Olympus D-SLR performance, compact size, ease of use.

In addition we have a second Olympus camera to give away to the photographer of the judges’ second choice, with the winning photograph in each category being published in the 2010 edition of Scene Magazine.

2009 Entry Guidelines: There are 5 categories and each entrant may enter a maximum of 15 photographs, 3 in each category: 1. Landscape/seascape 2. Wildlife 3. People 4. Funniest 5. Abstract /art So remember, wherever you go on Exmoor, always keep your camera ready - you just don’t know when you will find a winning shot! All pictures entered should have been taken within Exmoor during 2009. Add a title to each picture and state the category entered. Please include your name and address. Email your entries before 12 October 2009 as a jpeg attachment to: scenephotocomp@yahoo.co.uk. To be suitable for publication images must be 1MB or more.

The Lyn Association of Commerce and Tourism (LACT) reserves the right to use any photograph received.

The judges’ decision is final in all aspects of the competition.

2008 Competition Results: Thanks to all those who entered an image for our competition in 2008. The judges found it extremely difficult to make a decision due to the high quality of the images submitted. The winning photos; Malmsmead by Shirley Turner, Deer by Ian McMillan and Exmoor Trees by Michael Walters are shown on this and the wildlife page. Photos from other entrants can be found in this edition of Scene, also appearing are some excellent photographs by Philip Coole, John Carter, Regis Antione, Maureen Wood, Shaun Mellett, Michael Walters, Ian McMillan, and Christine Davies.

www.lyntonandlynmouthscene.co.uk • 23

Whatever your needs for that perfect holiday; maps, books, local food and drinks, gifts or a work of art, to ensuring your clothes smell sweet, look no further, a selection of fine local small shops, offer individual service to you, their valued customer.

From giftshops and galleries, food shops and more - why not enjoy an afternoon’s browse.....’

LYNTON LAUNDERETTE

OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK 7.30am to 8pm For more information on collection & delivery, dry cleaning, & service washes. Call in or ‘phone (01598) 753456

LUNDY LAMB

A Healthy Product... From a natural environment

The lambs in our managed flock of sheep are born and reared on the island without the pressures of modern intensive methods, on a diet of their mother’s milk and pastures of traditional grasses and herbs to improve the texture and flavour of the product. Butchered in traditional cuts and packed and delivered to your door step by overnight courier.

BOXES OF HALF LAMB AVAILABLE IN THE AUTUMN FOR DELIVERY Order your Lundy Lamb on line at www.lundyfarm.co.uk or by calling 01237 470074 Delivered to our customers during September until October.

Miles Tea & Coffee – blended & roasted in the heart of the West Country Visit us at The Vale Yard, High Street, Porlock, TA24 8PU You can also order online at www.djmiles.co.uk or call our freephone number 0800 387948

Tea, coffee, gift s & more

24 • www.lyntonandlynmouthscene.co.uk

T

Shopping

tu he S dio

• Newspapers • Magazines • Gifts • Confectionery • Souvenirs • Greetings Cards • Maps • Books • Local Guides • Postcards • Stationery • Batteries • Film • Toys

The Studio 8-9 Lee Road Lynton 01598 753382

Quality Greengrocer

Fresh bread baked daily, clotted cream and local farm meat

1 Castle Hill, Lynton • Tel: 01598 752488

Ethel Braithwaite’s

Local Scrumpy, Ales, and Wines. Freshly baked pasties, sandwiches made to order. Locally produced ice-cream, fudges and chocolate, award winning jams, marmalades and pickles. Biscuits, gifts and lots more.

1 Castle Hill, Lynton 01598 753721

V n y a L l l e e y h T

Art & Craft Centre OLD METHODIST CHURCH, NEXT TO TOWN HALL, LYNTON, EX35 6HT

Tel contact: Jeni Penfold 01598 752549 or 753611 www.lynvalleycraftcentre.com

Open 7 Days a Week

Almost All Year (closed early Jan to mid Feb) We are packed to the belfry with a fabulous collection of Art & Craft work from the locality. Everything from a 50p pottery mouse through wrought iron, candles, glass, ceramics, wood turning, jewellery, cards, preserves, textiles, etc to mirrors, paintings, knit-wear & clothing.

Great for Gifts Many unusual, unique & individual items

Widely acclaimed as one of the best Art & Craft Centres in the South West NO ADMISSION CHARGE We welcome dogs, buggies etc Most major credit/debit cards accepted Tea Rooms, Cliff Railway, Cinema & Shops close by.

For disabled visitors 4 steps are unavoidable but we’ll do all we can to help.

Established 1975

www.lyntonandlynmouthscene.co.uk • 25

Literary Exmoor Follow in the footsteps of writers such as Coleridge, Shelley, Blackmore and Williamson - writers of all kinds have long been attracted to Exmoor.

The ‘Romantic’ poets Samuel Taylor Coleridge, William Wordsworth, Robert Southey and Percy Bysshe Shelley all came at around the turn of the nineteenth century.

Coleridge, who lived at Nether Stowey and Wordsworth nearby at Alfoxden, often took long walking tours on what was to become their favourite walk along the rugged and wild Exmoor coast to Lynton and Lynmouth. In the autumn of 1797 they journeyed together along the coast to Lynton and the Valley of the Rocks and during this walk they jointly planned Coleridge’s most famous and epic poem, The Rhyme of the Ancient Mariner.

Southey came to Exmoor on family visits walking the coastal path to Lynton and Lynmouth, which he likened to Switzerland – ‘Little Switzerland’. He never forgot the area and returned in later life when he wrote the sonnet, To Porlock while at the Ship Inn there.

Essayist Charles Lamb and critic William Hazlitt also often visited Coleridge and walked with him to the Valley of Rocks travelling for ‘miles and miles on dark-brown heaths overlooking the Channel, with the Welsh hills beyond’, until they finally reached Lynton after

midnight. Returning from yet another visit to Lynmouth, Coleridge broke his journey, retiring to a lonely farmhouse near Culbone and there, in an opium induced state, the poem “Kubla Khan’’ came to him.

During the summer of 1812 Percy Bysshe Shelley honeymooned in Lynmouth at Shelley’s Hotel, then known as Mrs Hooper’s Lodgings.

Here Shelley tried to set up a small community of free spirits and composed early radical poetry such as Queen Mab and wrote seditious pamphlets including Declaration of Rights. He was seen distributing copies and fled Lynmouth after being watched by government spies because of his radical activities and writings.

Richard Doddridge Blackmore’s story of the tragic heroine Lorna Doone was set in the valleys of Exmoor. It is a romantic tale of love, honour, bravery and treachery during the time of James II and the Monmouth Rebellion.

R.D.Blackmore’s grandfather was vicar of Oare and Combe Martin and his uncle the rector of Charles near Lynton.

He was educated at Blundells School at Tiverton and, even though he was never a permanent resident of the area, the future novelist spent many holidays with his Exmoor relatives, exploring the countryside of his famous story.

Drawing heavily on his Exmoor family background his research into Lorna Doone took him far and wide, staying at Lynton, Porlock and Withypool. The book was finally published in spring 1869. It is still in print today.

Former Poet Laureate Ted Hughes, always regarded as a nature poet lived close by and his poem The Stag And Roe-Deer on Exmoor and An Otter, ‘rescued from a windswept lane on Exmoor before dawn in winter by a postman’, is a personal and touching poem.

26 • www.lyntonandlynmouthscene.co.uk

Over the years Exmoor has inspired many wildlife writers including a trio of famous naturalists, Richard Jefferies, Henry Williamson and W.H. Hudson, as well as the historian John Fortescue.

Part of Williamson’s international award-winning classic Tarka the Otter was set on Exmoor as was his Wild Red Deer Of Exmoor and Gale of the World, which was influenced by the 1952 Lynmouth flood disaster.

Perhaps better known for his TV and photographic work Johnny Kingdom has written 2 books, A Wild Life On Exmoor and Bambi and Me, about his life and love for Exmoor and its wildlife.

To this day Exmoor continues to attract and inspire writers. From Margaret

Drabble with The Witch of Exmoor, her gothic tale about a mad old matriarch upsetting her relatives, set in a remote house on the Exmoor coast; Dick Francis’ Shattered where part of the

detective novel takes the reader to Lynton; to James Herbert and his recent fine novel The Secret of Crickley Hall, where the author explores the darker, more obtuse territories with brooding menace and rising tension. The setting of Crickley Hall, an unusually large house at the bottom of Devil’s Cleave, a massive tree-lined gorge, is at Hollow Bay - Lynmouth.

Lynton and Lynmouth are also fictionalised by Ray Connolly in his current title Love Out Of Season which is set at the ‘North Devon Riviera’ where a search for love and happiness is pursued.

Another contemporary title is The Snow Fox Diaries by Jan Mazzoni, who lived on Exmoor for many years and returns as often as she can. It is a gripping and thought-provoking novel of life and love,

its central story is of a rare albino vixen and her struggle for survival.

Paddy King-Fretts lives on Exmoor and is the author of Larkbarrow, set on Exmoor during World War II and telling the story of how two innocent young lives were changed by events beyond their control. He has also now published the second book in his Jack Tucker trilogy. The Wild Red Dawn is the first part and begins around the time of Waterloo, but is set firmly on Exmoor.

The story continues in Softly Cries The Curlew as the romance develops against the harsh economic realities of the period. The final instalment is anticipated in 2009.

Katy Squires the 9 year old who finds a new born foal and is sure it is hers.

The story unfolds in Katy’s Exmoor; and continues in Katy’s Exmoor Adventures and Katy’s Exmoor Friends, all written

by Victoria Eveleigh whose home is very near to Lynton.

Children are not forgotten by 21st century writers. Everybody loves the Exmoor pony and none more so than

The books currently in print are available from The Studio in Lynton and other good local shops.

Map ref: D1

4 Riverside Road, Lynmouth • Tel: 01598 752444

“Down to the sea at Croyde”

“Golden Surf”

Maurice Bishop was born in Highbridge, Somerset and developed his childhood interest in painting into a career. He began painting full time in 1979 and moved to Exmoor in 1987, opening his first gallery in Dunster.

No one could capture the magic of Lynton and Lynmouth as Maurice does, without a deep love and understanding of the Exmoor countryside. His inspiration, gained from its everchanging landscape of open moorland, deep lush combes and hog-backed cliffs, results in paintings which capture the essence of Exmoor’s past and present.

His work includes many of the scenes which make Exmoor a firm favourite with visitors - Watersmeet, Malmsmead, Tarr Steps, Porlock, Dunkery and Lymouth Harbour. It also captures the more elusive images through paintings such as ‘Final Over at the Valley of Rocks’, ‘Home on a Moonlit Tide’ and ‘Exmoor Majesty’ which depicts our famous red deer.

“Watersmeet”

“Home to Lynmouth on a moonlit tide”

Recently Maurice has been painting themes depicting a journey towards the light such as ‘Together at Sunset’, ‘The Pathway’ and ‘The Promise’ reflecting, perhaps, the artist’s optimistic view of our world.

Maurice can often be seen painting in oils on canvas in his Riverside Road Gallery, Lynmouth. Here the complete selection of his signed limited edition prints can be purchased framed or unframed. A new and highly popular addition to the range enables the images to be hung as giclées on box canvasses.

This method makes framing unnecessary and creates a more minimalistic and contemporary look. He is always pleased to discuss his work and the Exmoor he loves with visitors, who are welcome to browse among the paintings and prints. The gallery is open every day between 10am and 5.30pm. Or if you are in the area his work can be seen in the family’s galleries in Dunster, Dulverton, Minehead, Taunton and Sidmouth.

www.lyntonandlynmouthscene.co.uk • 27

Whatever you fancy any time of day you can always find real food with West Country character from a light breakfast or brunch in one of the many cafés, to a Devon cream tea – or a full evening meal – in the many lively pubs, intimate restaurants or stylish hotels.

SCENE Eating Out

for the very best

The Dinner Table North Walk House - Lynton

01598 753372 see main accommodation advert

Now it’s time to eat!

The Crown Lynton

01598 752253 see main accommodation advert

St. Vincent Restaurant Lynton

01598 752244 see main accommodation advert

Map ref: D2

Rock House Lynmouth

The first thing that will strike you about dining out on Exmoor is the astounding backdrop to your meals: cafes on cliff tops or in spots of outstanding natural beauty such as the Valley of Rocks, inns nestled down long leafy Devon lanes, on river banks or in quaint villages with narrow winding lanes, or out in the moors under an open sky and the wide romantic landscape of Exmoor. The establishments have character and bags of atmosphere, some with open log fires, gardens or terraces, with candlelight, music, organic and local food or traditional fare.

01598 753508

North Devon really offers you some great seasonal local specialties, throughout the year you will find everything from fresh local fish, to succulent Exmoor lamb and pork presented by chefs serving and preparing local produce.

see main accommodation advert

Lynton Cottage Restaurant Lynton

01598 752342 see main accommodation advert

The Blueball Inn

Enjoy the flavour of Exmoor!

Countisbury

01598 741263 see main accommodation advert

Rising Sun Lynmouth

01598 753223 see main accommodation advert

The View Restaurant Northcliff House - Lynton

01598 752357

LEE ROAD, LYNTON

Tel: 01598 753366 At the top of the Cliff Railway

Email: clifftopcafaurant@btinternet.com v Situated literally at the top of The Cliff Railway v Traditional food all year round including evening meals v All homemade food using local produce v Traditional vegetarian & healthy low fat options always available v Fabulous panoramic views of Exmoor and the coastline v North Devon Good Food Award - Winners “ Best Café” v Fully Licensed v Indoor and outdoor seating Map ref: C1

see main accommodation advert

Exmoor White Horse Inn Exford

01643 831229 see main accommodation advert

Riverside Cottage Lynmouth

01598 752390 see main accommodation advert

28 • www.lyntonandlynmouthscene.co.uk

Mother Meldrums

Tea room and Garden

Beautiful tea gardens and tea room H Hot and cold food available all day H Child friendly H Cosy tea room for cooler days H Open from March - October, October - March Saturday & Sunday weather permitting H Home baking our speciality

The Valley Of Rocks, Lee Rd, Lynton, Devon EX35 6JH • All enquiries Phone Jaqui on:

01598 753667

The Bridge Inn We pride ourselves on our food, from a selection of steaks served on sizzlers to a good choice of homemade options from vegetarian to kiddie’s meals. A variety of ales and wines. Either enjoy a relaxing drink or a meal in the comfort of the bar or in our restaurant overlooking the West Lyn River.You should be sure of a warm, friendly welcome at The Bridge Inn.

✆ 01598 753425 www.bridgeinnlynton.co.uk bridgeinnlynton@hotmail.com

Map ref: C4

Guide

places to eat...

The Old Station House Inn

BLACKMOOR GATE, NORTH DEVON, EX31 4NW

Telephone 01598 763520

On the A39/A399 Junction at Blackmoor Gate

Children friendly licensed Inn & Restaurant

Parracombe, North Devon EX31 4PE Food available and bar open every lunchtime and evening.

Enjoy excellent award winning food using fresh produce from local suppliers and served in a relaxed and friendly village pub atmosphere.

Accommodation available soon

Tel: 01598 763239

Extensive Menu from Cream Teas & Bar Snacks to full A La Carte Food Served All Day, Everyday This converted railway station on the old Lynton to Barnstaple Railway offers a wide range of food & drink

HUNTERS INN OPEN DAILY ALL YEAR

Set in the majestic surrounds of The Heddon Valley, nestling beside the River Heddon and yet only a short walk from the coast. The Hunters Inn provides the ideal location to explore and enjoy all the beauty of Exmoor.

10 ROMANTIC BEDROOMS

Delicious range of home cooked, locally sourced food, Breakfasts, Lunches, Coffee & Fabulous Cream Teas, Evening Restaurant Menu. Traditional Sunday Lunches, Children’s and Vegetarian Menus. Large landscaped Gardens and outside eating areas. Extensive range of local ales, wines and spirits served in a warm friendly atmosphere. Conference & Function facilities.

Coaches welcome. Dog friendly.

01598 763230

Traditional Family run inn on the edge of Exmoor, situated on the banks of the River Lyn, in the centre of the picturesque village of Brendon (4 miles from Lynton A39) with its beautiful walks, riding and fishing. A warm welcome, log fires, real ales and home made food await you along with 12 comfortable en-suite letting rooms.

www.thehuntersinn.net

Heddon Valley, Parracombe, North Devon EX31 4PY

www.lyntonandlynmouthscene.co.uk • 29

Exploring Exmoor Exmoor, like R D Blackmore’s heroine Lorna Doone, is both wild and gentle; this drive takes you through the heart of the national park.

Lynton & Lynmouth A39

50 Mile Driving Tour of

Exmoor National Park

South West Coast Path

Our route begins in “Little Switzerland”, the beautiful coastal twin villages of Lynton and Lynmouth, a picturesque place worth exploring A39 Minehead with its famous Victorian water-powered cliff Porlock railway. Drive due south briefly stopping at B3223 A39 Watersmeet before climbing up across the roof Du nster of Exmoor heading for Simonsbath, Exford and Tarka Trail Wheddon Cross, one of the best ways for visitors A396 to view the fantastic countryside. Voted by the Simonsbath B3223 Caterham 7 sports car club as one of Britain’s Wheddon Best Driving Roads, the B3223/4 is one of the Tw Cross o Mo ors Way B3224 finest; stunning views of coast and country, Ex fo rd Samaritans Way South W challenging hills, good visibility and graceful est corners make for a wonderful few miles of driving. Carrying on swiftly through Simonsbath you arrive at Exford and then Wheddon Cross both of which watch the sun setting over Porlock Bay. By now you should be make an ideal spot for a snack, the ploughman’s are delicious! used to steep hills, the long and steep climb up Porlock Hill is perhaps the most challenging of all, but one of the highlights After admiring these pretty villages, the route along the A396 of this trip is the drive back along the A39 towards Lynton and winds down towards Dunster, its fine medieval buildings include Lynmouth where you’re spoilt for choice for breathtaking scenery. a castle and yarn market. Past Minehead to the picture postcard village of Porlock where, if you time your journey right, you can Please observe the speed limits, watch out for animals.

Exmoor National Par

k

PORLOCK VISITOR CENTRE

The Old School, High Street, Porlock TA24 8QD Tel: 01643 863150 Fax: 01648 863014 Email: PorlockCI@somerset.gov.uk

Free accommodation booking service Open all year - reduced hours in the Winter.

We sell local walking maps & books, cards & gifts.

www.porlock.co.uk

Wheddon Cross, Minehead, Somerset TA24 7DR

Early 19th Century Coaching Inn on Exmoor Exmoor local couple Eric & Julie Norman welcome you to their early 19th century coaching inn at the heart of Exmoor National Park, providing first-class bed & breakfast accommodation, local home-cooked meals and a warm and friendly atmosphere.

Tel: 01643 841222 • www.restandbethankful.co.uk

30 • www.lyntonandlynmouthscene.co.uk

The Exmoor White Horse Inn:

THE VERY BEST OF EXMOOR IDYLLIC 7 f[h\[Yj beYWj_ed" ]h[Wj \eeZ" WdZ W mWhc m[bYec[0 J^[ ',j^ 9[djkho ;nceeh M^_j[ >ehi[ ?dd _i [l[hoj^_d] j^Wj½i ]eeZ WXekj ;nceeh$ Family owned and run for generations, this is the kind of place you can just kick off your boots after a day’s exploring and enjoy some great local hospitality. Like a warm welcome when you arrive, a sumptuous room with a view, and of course, some delicious locally-sourced food. All year, we’re serving up some of the finest: from moorland game to locally caught fish and lobster, all served up with the best selection of vintages. For a relaxing short break, there’s nowhere better.

Exford, Exmoor National Park, Somerset, TA24 7PY. www.exmoor-whitehorse.co.uk Telephone 01643 831229

INSPIRING J^[ Eh_]_dWb ;nceeh IW\Wh_ _i j^[ edbo mWo je i[[ j^[ h[Wb ;nceeh Go off the beaten track with this amazing 2.5 hour Land Rover Safari. You’ll discover miles of stunning untamed moorland and dramatic coastline, and get closer to local wildlife like Exmoor ponies and the elusive red deer, while learning more about this incredible part of the world. It’s an unmissable experience for all ages. Departs daily from the Exmoor White Horse Inn. To book this unique experience, call: 01643 831229 www.exmoorsafari.co.uk

UNFORGETTABLE ;nceeh f^eje]hWf^o Xh[Wai" m_j^ Wd WmWhZ¸m_dd_d] f^eje]hWf^[h Local photographer Peter Hendrie has shot at locations all over the globe, but for him, there’s nowhere quite like home. Whatever your ability, why not come and join him on Exmoor for some expert tuition and a chance to take home your own images of this unique part of the world?

Staying at the famous Exmoor White Horse Inn, you’ll enjoy some of the finest local hospitality and see Peter’s Exmoor images for yourself, displayed throughout the Inn. Find out more at www.peterhendrie.co.uk For enquiries and bookings, call The Exmoor White Horse Inn: 01643 831229

www.lyntonandlynmouthscene.co.uk • 31

Scene Good Hotel and B&B Guide

Hunters Inn Heddon Valley - Parracombe

01598 763230 see main eating out advert

The Fox & Goose Parracombe

Look no further, select from our wide range below, take your pick from some of the best quality hotels and welcoming bed and breakfasts on offer.

The Bridge Inn

Map ref: C4

Located just outside Lynton & Lynmouth, on the bank of West Lyn River. All our rooms have their own individual charm and have tea and coffee facilities.

From £22.50 to 30pppn ✆ 01598 753425 www.bridgeinnlynton.co.uk bridgeinnlynton@hotmail.com No Smoking • Dogs Welcome Deer watching available in spring or autumn (prior bookings only)

4 Star Silver Award Guest House Traditional and vegetarian menus Evening meals available Monday to Friday

www.southcliffe.co.uk

email: info@southcliffe.co.uk

Map ref: B1

01598 763239 see main eating out advert

The Denes 15 Longmead, Lynton, Devon EX35 6DQ

glorious place good food great value • Car Parking • Peaceful Location • Near to Valley of the Rocks • Children Welcome • Evening Meals • Licensed • En-suite or Private Facilities • Non-smoking Establishment • Major Credit Cards accepted

OPEN ALL YEAR from £25 - £30pppn B&B Discounts for longer stays Proprietors John & Sally McGowan

t 01598 753573 w www.thedenes.com e j.e.mcgowan@btinternet.com

Map ref: B2

32 • www.lyntonandlynmouthscene.co.uk

GABLE LODGE

A family run licensed guest house offering family friendly accommodation.

• 4 double rooms • 1 family room with adjoining bunk room • 1 family/twin room • Small private car park • Open all year (except Christmas) • No smoking throughout • Green Tourism Silver Award • All rooms have en-suite facilities, tea and coffee making facilities, minifridge, mineral water, colour television, hairdryer and complimentary toiletries.

• Evening meals available to order are freshly prepared using the best local produce.

• We welcome children, sorry no pets.

Anne and Dave Wilford, 35 Lee Road, Lynton, Devon EX35 6BS

B&B from £25 - £31pppn based on 2 people sharing Tel: 01598 752367 Email: gablelodge@btconnect.com

www.gablelodgelynton.co.uk

Glenville House 2 Tors Road, Lynmouth EX35 6ET Website: www.glenvillelynmouth.co.uk Email: tricia@glenvillelynmouth.co.uk

Idyllic riverside setting for our lovely Victorian B&B full of charm nestled on the banks of the East Lyn. Tastefully decorated bedrooms, pretty en-suites.

Picturesque harbour and village, spectacular scenery and beautiful walks.

Peaceful, tranquil, romantic - a very special place.

AA HHHH B&B from £29 - £32pppn Map ref: E2

Map ref: B2

Map ref: B2

Free i Wi-F

Digi Free tal view

Croft House 

Map ref: B2

Charming Georgian Guest House in Lynton ‘Old Village’

Tricia and Alan Francis Tel: 01598 752202

INGLESIDE

Beautiful 1828 Residence

Character En-Suite Rooms

Secluded Walled Garden

Great Hospitality

Including Large en-suites King & Super-king beds

Visit Britain 4 Star

Keith & Diana Gray Off Lee Road, Lynton, Devon EX35 6HW Web: www.ingleside-hotel.co.uk Tel: 01598 752223 keithdiana@supanet.com

‘Great Views, Great Food, Wonderful Hospitality’

Devon Coastline & Exmoor National Park from its doors

Book On line at

www.lyntonbandb.co.uk B&B from £30-£42 per person

Tel: 01598 752391

or Email: stay@lyntonbandb.co.uk

Lydiate Lane, Lynton, North Devon EX35 6HE

North Walk House North Walk, Lynton, EX35 6HJ

Keith & Diana welcome you to Ingleside situated in lovely secluded grounds away from the traffic on the southern side of Hollerday Hill. We have spectacular views overlooking Lynton Village,Watersmeet Valley and Countisbury Hill, yet Lynton village centre is only a minutes’ walk from Ingleside, with its restaurants, shops and famous Cliff Railway.

• Silver Award 2007 and 2008 • All our bedrooms are Ensuite • B&B £30-£38 per person per night • Home Cooked Evening Meals Available • All Food Locally Sourced • Family Bedroom • Special Breaks Available: please enquire • Private Car Park in our grounds • Fantastic Views • Relaxed, Friendly Atmosphere • South Facing, ‘Sunniest spot in Lynton’ • Located within Exmoor National Park • All new ensuite facilities

AA HHHH Highly Commended

member Slow Food

Sea Views Private Car Park Organic local Produce King Size Beds all en-suite Self Catering Studio Open Christmas Fully Licensed Free Wi-Fi Connection

Bespoke guest accommodation on the South West Coastal Path for fine dining and walking

www.northwalkhouse.co.uk walk@northwalkhouse.co.uk Tel: (01598) 753372

Map ref: C1

www.lyntonandlynmouthscene.co.uk • 33

Woodlands

THE BLUEBALL INN Formerly the exmoor sandpiper inn

Peter & Carole Hood (Fully Licensed) Lynbridge Road, Lynton, N.Devon EX35 6AX

Set on high ground with glorious views overlooking summerhouse hill & wooded valley of the West Lyn river.

All rooms particularly spacious, ensuite & colour TV, private parking, boot & drying room.

Tel: 01598 752324 info@woodlandsguesthouse.co.uk www.woodlandsguesthouse.co.uk

Map ref: C3

Excellent location for WALKING & SIGHTSEEING

B&B From £25 pppn

LynhursT Phil, Jacky and Nick invite you to come and stay at the Blue Ball Inn and enjoy the great food & beer. t: 01598 741263

w: www.blueballinn.com

e: blueballinn@btconnect.com

Hillside House

This elegant late Victorian country house offers spacious and comfortable self catering accommodation for up to 22 people in a secluded situation with magnificent sea views, close to all amenities.

www.thelynhurst.com

01598 753757 07592 870929 jane@thelynhurst.com

BAY VIEW HOUSE

Mark and Christine welcome you to their beautiful house. Situated in a peaceful wooded location above the harbour.

Completely refurbished throughout in 2006.

Quality en suite bedrooms enjoy stunning sea and harbour views, private parking.

A totally non smoking house.

22 Watersmeet Road, Lynmouth EX35 6EP

From £25 - £28 pppn Hillside House is a beautiful Listed Building overlooking the East Lyn River.

An ideal base to explore coastal, moorland, riverside and woodland scenery. Television and beverage tray in each room. Double, twin or single rooms with either ensuite or private bathroom. Dogs welcome.

Open all year. No smoking.

Map ref: E2

Tel: 01598 753836

www.hillside-lynmouth.co.uk

Home cooking a speciality, AA award for dinner. B&B from £30-£40 per person 3 course evening dinner £18 Special value breaks also available throughout the season.

Bay View House • Clooneavin Path • Lynmouth • Devon • EX35 6EE T 01598 752270 • E Enquiries@bayviewhouselynmouth.co.uk • W bayviewhouselynmouth.co.uk

Rock House Hotel

Manor Green, Lynmouth, Devon EX35 6EN Email: enquiries@rock-house.co.uk

An 18th Century picturesque hotel uniquely standing alone at Lynmouth’s harbour entrance and just a stones throw from Exmoor.

Bedrooms are well appointed, and many have the benefit of wonderful views of the rolling waves. A choice of menus is offered, either in the spacious lounge/bar or in the candlelit harbour side restaurant.

A great location for walks; on the rugged North Devon coastal path; through woodlands alongside the river Lyn or across the rolling moorlands of Lorna Doone country.

Telephone: 01598 753508 • www.rock-house.co.uk 34 • www.lyntonandlynmouthscene.co.uk

Longmead House

Unwind, relax and be pampered in our comfortable home set in beautiful Exmoor countryside on the edge of Lynton.

• • • •

Fully Licensed • En-Suite Rooms Free Car Parking • Guest Lounge Home Cooked Food • WI-FI Internet All rooms with LCD Freeview digital TV

Map ref: A2

Tel: 01598 753354

Map ref: E2

www.lornadoonehouse.co.uk

A harmonious blend of quality service, comfortable accommodation and affordable prices.

Tel: 01598 752523

9 Longmead, Lynton EX35 6DQ

www.longmeadhouse.co.uk

Map ref: D2

Countisbury Lodge

Countisbury Hill Lynmouth Devon EX35 6NB Outstanding location and sunny position all year.

Ample parking, en-suite, dogs welcome.

£25 - £28 B&B Pat & Paul Young

Orchard House

Grade 2 Listed licensed hotel, full of warmth character and home comforts.

Situated in Watersmeet Valley, 2 minutes from harbour and all village facilities.

Perfect for exploring Exmoor’s beauty and relaxing. Comfortable rooms full of personal touches, decanter of sherry. Most rooms have views of the sea and are en-suite. Cosy well stocked residents bar and comfortable lounge.

Large, quality breakfast grill with vegetarian selection • Special rates for longer stays • Major credit cards accepted • Fully non-smoking • Sorry no young children or pets Watersmeet Road, Lynmouth EX35 6EP Tel: 01598 753247 • Fax: 01598 753855 Email: Bryn@LynmouthHotel.co.uk Website: www.LynmouthHotel.co.uk

Map ref: E1

Telephone: Lynton (01598) 752388 website/email: countisburylodge.co.uk

Sea View Villa 6 Summerhouse Path Lynmouth EX35 6ES

Map ref: C1

Steve & Chris Bissex-Williams invite you to be pampered in their

Luxury Georgian Guest House Fine Food • Relaxation • Comfort

Map ref: D2

To book online www.seaviewvilla.co.uk or contact us on 01598 753460 Email: seaviewenquiries@aol.com

CHOUGH’S NEST HOTEL

You’ll be chuffed with Chough’s Nest!

Victorian cliff-top retreat which offers charming ensuite accommodation with stunning sea and coastal views.

01598 753 315

NORTH WALK ♦ LYNTON ♦ DEVON ♦ EX35 6HJ Map ref: C1

Hotel

Email: relax@choughsnesthotel.co.uk Website: www.choughsnesthotel.co.uk

www.lyntonandlynmouthscene.co.uk • 35

Map ref: C2

Lynway, Lynton EX35 6AY Tel: 01598 753227 Email: enquiries@sinaihouse.co.uk Web: www.sinaihouse.co.uk

Highcliffe

H O U S E

www.highcliffehouse.co.uk info@highcliffehouse.co.uk +44(0)1598 752235

Colin & Carmel Wilkins B&B Prices from £27 to £33

Detached Victorian House Magnificent Sea Views 5 Minutes walk from village En-suite rooms - Car park Large terraced Gardens Licensed bar

Riverside Cottage www.riversidecottage.co.uk

Riverside Road, Lynmouth, Devon EX35 6EH Tel: 01598 752390

• • • • • • • •

Stunning Victorian house with spacious en-suite rooms, colour TV’s, central heating, hospitality trays & private car park.

Private Balconies En suite Rooms Beautiful Views Colour TVs Beverage Trays Central Heating Radio Alarm Clocks Hairdryers

Lynway, Lynton, Devon EX35 6AX • 01598 753 230 • www.pinelodgelynton.co.uk OPEN ALL YEAR • B&B £30-£38 • 10% DISCOUNT FOR STAYS OF 3 NIGHTS OR MORE

Come and experience the tranquillity and beauty of Exmoor and the warmth and hospitality at Riverside Cottage. We have a licensed Café and can offer evening meals, a residents lounge with a large screen TV and digital channels.

8 rooms (7 doubles & 1 twin) including 1 family sleeps 4.

6 have beautiful views from the private balconies over the River, Manor Green, Sea and Lynmouth Harbour.

Until Easter 2009 all rooms will be discounted by £10 per night This includes all other offers and discounts and excludes Christmas and New Year 2008

Sue & Richard Barnes

Map ref: D1

River Lyn View Situated on Exmoor, near the picturesque harbour in Lynmouth, River Lyn View offers comfortable bed and breakfast luxury en-suite accommodation.

Map ref: E2 Enjoy the peace and tranquility!

From £26.00 to £30.00 pppn.

Telephone: 01598 753501 Website: www.riverlynview.com Email: riverlynview@aol.com Well-behaved dogs welcome.

Major credit cards accepted.

26 Watersmeet Road Lynmouth, North Devon EX35 6EP

GREAT PLACE • NICE PEOPLE

THE CROWN Sinai • Lynton • North Devon

...resting place, quieter pace and plenty of space

About our Inn...

A very warm welcome to The Crown, located in the heart of the old village of Lynton on Exmoor. It is a resting place for travellers to relax in a friendly atmosphere and enjoy a break in this breathtakingly beautiful part of the world. We strive to accommodate your every need, from romantic weekends including champagne and the lady’s favourite flowers, to offering trekking parties and mountain bikers fine food, exceptional ales and good wines after an exhilarating day’s activity.

Please call in and enjoy a pint, a meal and a chat.

The Crown Hotel, Sinai, Lynton, North Devon EX35 6AG Tel: 01598 752253 Email: info@crownhotellynton.co.uk

36 • www.lyntonandlynmouthscene.co.uk

www.crownhotellynton.co.uk

Map ref: B2

Les Routiers in Britain National Winner 2007 Visit Exmoor B&B of the Year 2006 Alastair Sawday’s Special Places to Stay Fine Wines & Belgian Beers Gourmet French & Belgian Cuisine Fresh Fish & Game Specialities AA Dinner Award All our bedrooms are en-suite, most with 5ft and 6ft beds, all with ironing facilities, free wi-fi broadband and complimentary beverages.

B&B from £35 per person per night Linda & Jean-Paul Cameron-Salpetier

St. Vincent House & Restaurant Market Street, Castle Hill, Lynton, N. Devon EX35 6JA Map ref: C2 Tel: 01598 752244 email: welcome@st-vincent-hotel.co.uk website: www.st-vincent-hotel.co.uk

Les Routiers Hotel of the Year for the South West 2005

The Heatherville

Tors Park, Lynmouth, Devon EX35 6NB Telephone: 01598 752327 Map ref: E2

North Cliff Hotel The North Cliff stands in a quiet position with magnificent views over Lynmouth Bay and Countisbury Hill from all our rooms. Ideal for walking or touring. Our restaurant ‘The View’ offers English home cooking at its best. Come to the North Cliff for superb food, comfortable beautiful surroundings and a welcoming and friendly atmosphere. * All bedrooms en-suite * Beverage tray, TV and hair dryer in all rooms * Non smoking hotel * Hotel car park * Restaurant and Lounge Bar * Groups welcome

* Children welcome * Dogs welcome * Short break offers * Open all year * On SW coastal footpath and close to village

Contact Kate Alford at North Walk, Lynton, Devon EX35 6HJ

Tel: 01598 752357 E-mail: holidays@northcliffhotel.co.uk Website: www.northcliffhotel.co.uk

Map ref: D1

k Beautiful house, situated in sunny, quiet, secluded position overlooking the River Lyn k 4 minutes walk from village and harbour k AA Awards for Best Breakfast and Dinner k All rooms en suite with all the extras one would expect from a 5 star Gold Award accommodation k Private car park k Pets by arrangement Ring for brochure and tariff or visit www.heatherville.co.uk Jean & Duncan Ritchie and Lorraine & Patrick Drury Map ref: E1

Set in a commanding position, the Tors Hotel has magnificent views over Lynmouth and the harbour.

Superb Romantic Luxury Suite. 31 Bedrooms.

Beautiful Restaurant. Outdoor Swimming Pool.

B&B from £56 to £125 per person. DB&B from £76 to £145.

Discounts, Group Rates & Special Offers throughout the season.

Tel 01598 753236 www.torshotellynmouth.co.uk Email: info@torshotellynmouth.co.uk The Tors Hotel, Lynmouth, North Devon EX35 6NA 22 ensuite bedrooms, many with sea views from £35 per person bed and breakfast.

Children free.

Families and pets most welcome.

Two bars, Restaurant, Conservatory style lounge and garden terrace.

Car park.

We also offer a table d’hote evening meal served in our hotel restaurant.

Map ref: D1

Situated in Lynmouth Tel 01598 752238 right by the harbour.

Discounts, Group Rates & The Bath Hotel, Lynmouth, North Devon EX35 6EL Special Offers throughout www.bathhotellynmouth.co.uk the season.

www.lyntonandlynmouthscene.co.uk • 37

Self-Catering

Fernleigh Self-Catering Apartment - Lynton

www.fernleigh.net see main accommodation advert

North Walk House Self-Catering Apartment - Lynton

Choosing self catering, well the Scene has a wide selection ranging from farm cottages, country houses, apartments and even log cabins.

Lynbridge, Lynton, North Devon, EX35 6NS Sunny Lyn is situated in the breathtaking scenery of Exmoor National Park.

Ideally situated for walking adjacent to many footpaths and the Tarka Trail.

Sunny Lyn is a small family run site with 2 centrally heated apartments, 3 riverside log cabins, both open year round. Static caravans all fully equipped and with full colour TV and hot showers. Tents, motor homes and touring caravans are welcome toilet block with hairdryers and free hot showers. Electric and TV hook-ups available.

The site has a licensed shop and café, launderette and trout fishing on site.

For more information or a colour brochure please contact

www.northwalkhouse.co.uk see main accommodation advert

Alta Lyn Alpacas

Self-catering farm cottage apartments on alpaca breeding farm nr. Lynton, on Exmoor. Stunning sea views, car parking, wheelchair access. Studio courses.

Contact Anne Coombs: Tel: 01598 753654 Email: info@altalynalpacas.co.uk

www.altalynalpacas.co.uk

Lynne and Chris

Telephone: 01598 753384

Lyn House

Map ref: C4

Holiday Apartments

Coombe Farm

Comfortable apartments with sea views & private parking. Delightful central Lynton location. Lovely walks directly from the property and pretty garden terraces for relaxing. Pets welcome.

Home-made bread and marmalade with breakfast sets you up for a day exploring Exmoor, Lynmouth, Doone Valley and the surrounding area.

Local wildlife includes Red Deer, Buzzards, Badgers and Foxes.

Michael & Debbie Gardiner • Tel: 01598 752229 • www.lynhouse.co.uk email: lynhouse@btinternet.com • Lynway, Lynton, North Devon EX35 6AX

Susan Pile Tel: 01598 741236 coombefarm@freeuk.com www.brendonvalley.co.uk/coombe_farm.htm

Map ref: C2

Channel View Caravan Park

Barbrook, Lynton, North Devon EX32 6LD Tel: 01598 753349 • Fax: 01598 752777 email: relax@channel-view.co.uk

www.channel-view.co.uk

A warm welcome awaits you at this quiet family run site, situated at the heart of Exmoor National Park, overlooking Lynton & Lynmouth and the Bristol channel.

Excellent walking and some of the most spectacular views in the area. 1st class camping and touring facilities. Electric hook-ups, fully serviced pitches, site shop and cafe, public telephone, launderette, dogs welcome. Country Inn adjoining.

Luxury static caravans available. WiFi available.

Countisbury, Lynton, Devon EX35 6NF

LynhursT

Map ref: C2

This elegant late Victorian country house offers spacious and comfortable self catering accommodation for up to 22 people in a secluded situation with magnificent sea views, close to all amenities.

www.thelynhurst.com

01598 753757 07592 870929 jane@thelynhurst.com

EXMOOR BASECAMP High-quality holiday homes in the West Country

01647 433593 www.helpfulholidays.co.uk

We have the largest selection of VisitBritain inspected holiday cottages in Lynton, Lynmouth, Exmoor and North Devon.

Affordable holidays on Exmoor.

Relax and enjoy the scenery or take part in the many outdoor activities.

Cosy hostel accommodation for up to 18 people

Ideal for families, friends & of educational Comfortable hostel accommodation for groups up to 18groups people.

Ideal for families, friends and educational Spectacular £120-£160 per night.groups.

Discount for 4+ nights Workwinter with the for a freefor night’s stay! scenery £150 summer & £110 perwardens night. Discount 4 nights.

Work a day with the wardens for a free night’s stay!

01598 741101 or 07974829171 • karen.birch@nationaltrust.org.uk

For this and more quality properties with a service to match:

Online availability and booking at www.lynmouthholidaycottages.com

Phone 01271 813777

38 • www.lyntonandlynmouthscene.co.uk

Tel: 01548 853089 www.toadhallcottages.co.uk

www.lyntonandlynmouthscene.co.uk • 39

UNSUITABLE FOR CAMPERVANS AND SIMILAR LARGER VEHICLES

Where Exmoor meets the sea, words and pictures can only tell part of the story, experience the thrill of this scenic tour and discover it’s magic as you explore the beauty of “Little Switzerland.”

Buses:

Railway:

Airports:

Operates from mid February to mid November continuously

Coach services operate to and from Barnstaple.

Timetables are available from the Tourist Information Centre and are displayed at the bus stops.

There is a regular bus service to Barnstaple.

Service 309 goes to Barnstaple via Shirwell and Arlington.

Service 310 goes to Barnstaple via Bratton Flemming.

Both routes pass Woody Bay Station.

Service 300 The Exmoor Coast Link runs between Minehead and Ilfracombe and serves the villages of Porlock and Combe Martin.

The nearest railway station is Barnstaple This connects to the main line at Exeter

Nearest airports are at Bristol and Exeter.

Getting To and About Lynton & Lynmouth

Cliff Railway: