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A subsidiary of Adams Publishing Group, the Grand Rapids Herald-Review’s sister publications include the Mesabi Daily News of Virginia, Hibbing Daily Tribune, Walker Pilot Independent, Chisholm Tribune Press, Virginia Manney’s Shopper, Hibbing Manney’s Shopper and Grand Rapids Manney’s Shopper, as well as newspapers in southern Minnesota and western Wisconsin.
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EAT
DORSET P O P U L AT I O N 2 2 By Christina Monson
Y
ou’d be hard pressed to find someone whose life doesn’t consist of family and food intertwined with tradition. We often think of Thanksgiving as a time for families to come together, give thanks, and celebrate the bounty of food before them. Most families have traditions around Christmastime and Easter where the gathering, the celebration, is centered around the dining table with family. This article is not one that follows our conventional “EAT” article style where we talk about the exquisite cuisine of a new or established restaurant. This article centers on the importance of food in our family summer traditions and on the importance of community! The town of Dorset, MN is a marvel, an icon of quirky characteristics (like an elected three year old Mayor… an entire story in and of itself… and The Dorset Daily Bugle… “Published once a year, whether there’s news or not!”). It’s a town of fun and family memories.
This more recent story of Dorset is one that hits many heartstrings around northern Minnesota residents, longtime vacationers and the employees and owners of the local businesses… this story is one of rebirth and resurgence. This community now has a rejuvenated skip in their step. Hope. Excitement. Nerves. And this particular summer may prove to be the most anticipated summer tourist season yet! Dorset is rising from the ashes and the fire ravished effects on the local economy to triumphantly regain its status as “the restaurant capital of the world” with the rebuild of the destroyed Dorset House and Companeros. In the true Dorset fashion of tradition
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Photos by Park Rapids Enterprise
Self-proclaimed as the “restaurant capital of the world”, Dorset boasts four restaurants and a whopping population of 22… that was until 2014 when a devastating fire ripped through two restaurants, destroying the livelihood and dreams of owners, Rick and Laura Kempnich. This fire gained regional, as well as national media coverage and many saw it as the end of an era for the tiny town of taste.
and community, the story of this rebuild is one that mimics the Dorset experience. The new owners who have taken on the task of rebuilding and bringing these two iconic restaurants back to life are Beth and Levi Durgin. The story of these two is as delightful as their present day interaction with each other. Levi started as a dishwasher in the Companeros kitchen back when he was 14 years old and over the years worked his way up to a cook. Beth was a local teacher when she started working her summers as a waitress at Companeros. They worked together for years and then, as Dorset fate would have it, they would have their first date at the Taste of Dorset in 2004 (an annual celebration in early August) and by November 2004 they were engaged and then married in July 2005. After the fire, the property was leveled and listed for sale. After no potential buyers came forward, the couple decided that “somebody’s got to do it.” With their hearts bound to the town and “the Companeros family,” they dove in, moved to the area and started the work to rebuild. Their valuable past experience in the kitchen and with customers would be a great basis and would serve them well. Not only have surrounding communities come forth with support, but the Durgins are working alongside the Kempnichs to learn the ways of the business. In addition, many past employees are returning to work alongside their “family” and some have assisted in the recreation of the look and feel of the Dorset House, as the Durgins worked exclusively in Companeros.
Photos by Christina Monson
The two restaurants are now housed under one roof with one kitchen but are separate restaurants as before. The menus will be essentially the same, with some added improvements. The Durgins are bringing back as much of the experience as they can with great ideas for added perks, like patio seating and modern décor upgrades.
It’s a town of fun and family memories.
If you have never heard of Dorset, add it to your summer vacation routine. It’s a time-honored tradition for thousands of families... my family happens to be one of them! I’ve dined in Dorset since I was a little girl. I have old copies of the Dorset Daily Bugle in boxes containing relics of my youth. This community and their family of businesses have had and continue to have an immeasurable effect on people. Don’t miss out on this historic summer. Experience Dorset this summer and welcome these vibrant new owners on their journey to give life again to these two very missed dining institutions! You’ll spot my family there in early August- it’s been a long awaited couple of years without our beloved Companeros mexican food!
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