In My Glass

Comfortable Certitude

A neo bistro in Paris provides backdrop for anniversary

by Trevor Burton photography by Trevor Burton

A couple of years back, my wife, Mary Ellen, and I made a quick trip to The City of Light to celebrate a big occasion. Paris has been an integral part of our life together and it seemed only right to be there to raise a toast to a major anniversary.

We decided that the appropriate place to do that was at Le Violon d’Ingres, located in a local, busy and cozy shopping street, close to the Eiffel Tower. A good decision.

We’ve known the restaurant’s founder, Christian Constant, and the restaurant for many years. We’ve celebrated many things and many times with Constant. Just a quick aside, I got in touch with him a few years ago about setting up a wine pairing lunch with one of North Carolina’s best wineries, Hanover Park. Not only did he agree, he created a special menu for the wines—not just a selection of dishes from his menu, but a unique lunch. Pretty special and a great complement to Hanover Park.

We go back with Constant to his days as executive chef at the restaurant in the Hôtel de Crillon where he earned two Michelin stars. And, for almost a quarter of a century, we’ve been regular visitors to this restaurant that he founded. It has been graced with its own Michelin star.

Christian Constant has moved on. But we were confident that the spirit of the place, in a luxurious neo-bistro style, would remain unchanged. And, of course, that the cuisine would be as excellent as ever. After our anniversary toasting, we can vouch for that.

The restaurant is best described by the term, “quiet and understated elegance.” It’s more like a classy bistro with fabulous food and wine. A good place to begin to get a feel for the restaurant would be with wine. We ordered a recommended wine, a bottle of Chablis. A “regular” Chablis, not one of the prestigious Cru crew. The wine was spectacular and an example of Violon d’Ingres’ excellence. It was from a small production made by Thomas Pico. Pico uses only organic grapes that he grows himself, or grapes from farmers he knows and works with intimately. A unique wine that the restaurant’s team selected for their guests. This isn’t named as a Premier Cru but, wait a while, I’m sure it will be. Right now, a seriously great white wine at a pretty reasonable price.

We went for the tasting menu. Service was impeccable; constant attention but quiet and unobtrusive. We started with an amusebouche which was a mousse of mushrooms topped with truffles. I couldn’t resist the appetizer of foie gras—a rare treat but, once in a while, you’ve got to go for it. I expected it to be out-of-thisworld and it was. That was followed by sea bass topped with almonds. These dishes were just another example of what Le Violon d’Ingres is all about. Simplicity, using excellent ingredients that are superbly prepared.

Then came dessert. I had mentioned, when I made our reservation, that we were celebrating our anniversary. Mary Ellen chose a poached pear and I went for the Grand Marnier soufflé. Again, simplicity ruled the day. The pear was beautifully (maybe, that should be exquisitely) presented—and with a celebratory candle.

This was, as always, a great experience—that understated elegance I mentioned, previously. Quiet, gentle and attentive service combined with wonderful food and wine. What a way to end our little visit to Paris. And what a way to toast a major anniversary. We’ll be back.