DINING GUIDE Many of our 200 plus reviews, plus a spotlight on Fernet- Branca cocktails at Glasspar in Dana Point

MARC H 2022

DINING GUIDE

ORANGE COUNTY’S DEFINITIVE SOURCE FOR RESTAURANT NEWS & MINIREVIEWS

PRICING $$$ $50 and up $$ Less than $50 $ Mostly less than $25

Denotes Critic’s Choice restaurant

ANAHEIM HILLS

EL CHOLO

A spiffy suburban outpost of the combo-plate chain that started in L.A. in 1923. Many dishes are listed with their year of origin. One of the best dates from the birth of the restaurant: the Sonora-style enchilada topped with a fried egg. Green corn tamales have achieved cult status. 8200 E. Santa Ana Canyon Road, 714-769-6269. See Corona del Mar and La

Habra locations. $$

REUNION KITCHEN + DRINK

Popular with the locals, this dapper haunt oozes bonhomie thanks to a solid team led by industry vet

Scott McIntosh, whose feel-good American classics are consistently executed by a tight kitchen. Service is sharp. Look for a homey meatloaf, laudable fried chicken with yummy mashers and fresh biscuits, and house-made desserts. Modern cocktails and a roomy patio increase the pleasure factor. 5775 E.

Santa Ana Canyon Road, 714-283-1062. Second location (not yet reviewed) in Laguna Beach. $$

ANAHEIM

BLUSKY BAR

Gawk at the view from the 12-story rooftop digs, but know that BluSky Bar’s Basque cuisine is what really makes this hotel restaurant Anaheim’s most interesting newcomer. Executive chef Edgar Beas is fresh off stints at Michelin-starred kitchens, applying mastery to a tight menu of Spanish dishes. Look for Iberico pork items, indulgent salt cod, and lobster paella. Late night, the place thumps with club action. Radisson Blu, 1601 S. Anaheim Blvd., 714-4091458. Dinner only $$

NAPA ROSE

Wine country thrives at the Disneyland Resort by way of this classy dinner house— no park admission required. Star chef Andrew Sutton leads his crew in an exhibition kitchen, turning out imaginative, highly seasonal New American fare.

The room mixes rustic with refined, and the notably wine-savvy waitstaff, many qualified as sommeliers, deftly tailors unforgettable meals around wines from one of the region’s finest cellars. Disney’s Grand Californian Hotel & Spa, 1313 Disneyland

Drive, 714-300-7170. $$$

POPPY & SEED

Chef-owner Michael Reed applies his versatile chops to a spirited, seasonal dinner menu of share plates and thoughtful proteins. Clever variations on of-the-moment produce are high points, as are premium steaks and duck dishes. The one-of-a-kind greenhouse garden setting is a calming contrast to neighbor Anaheim Packing House. Weekend brunch.

Closed Monday and Tuesday. 350 S. Anaheim Blvd., 714-603-7130 $$$

PUESTO

Part of a swanky new Westin resort, the latest site of this high-flying taqueria is perhaps the most dramatic. Kinetic lighting, mobile bar shelves, and a tequila temple wall engage diners as they down showy drinks and novel taco-centric fare. Handmade blue corn tortillas and cheesy Oaxacan fri-

cos lend tacos a signature difference. Ask about the monthly taco special. 1040 W. Katella Ave., 714-2940362.$$ See Huntington Beach and Irvine locations.

THE RANCH RESTAURANT & SALOON

Oozing top-notch ambition, The Ranch packs some big guns—executive chef Michael

Rossi and his brother David, pastry chef. The large venue also includes an upscale saloon and dance hall, sited in the six-story headquarters of Extron

Electronics. The whopping (mostly) seasonal American fare is a mashup of down-home and uptown. 1025 E. Ball Road, 714-817-4200. $$$

ROXY’Z

NEW Zov’s Anaheim resurfaced as this breezy watering hole inspired by Roxy, Zov Karamardian’s mother and reputed renegade. Cocktails, imaginative share plates, and premier pizzas dominate a menu designed for gathering before or after games, concerts, and Disneyland visits. Don’t-miss dishes include the chile-glazed rib stack, fried chicken sandwich, and kebab platter. There’s an elevated beer program and a midweek happy hour. 1801 E. Katella Ave., 714-280-9687. $$

TRUE SEASONS ORGANIC KITCHEN

This sleek storefront by Saifon Plewtong adds wraps, bowls, smoothies, and desserts to a menu that once focused solely on hot pots. Still, the spotlight is on organic, GMO-free local produce and all-natural proteins. Do try the fresh-pressed sugar cane juice for a refresher like no other in these parts. 5675

E. La Palma Ave., 714-462-9223. Beer and wine. $$

URBANA

This colorful tenant at the Anaheim Packing House brings vibrancy and a cool cantina attitude to a food hall that really needed a good taco and mezcal cocktail. Executive chef Ernie Alvarado’s short menu of savvy street food changes often, and you can’t go wrong with his daily specials. Cozy surroundings offer a choice of ambience—festive or sultry. 440 S.

Anaheim Blvd., 714-502-0255. $$

BREA

BRUNOS ITALIAN KITCHEN

One of North County’s best venues boasts advantages that are rare in these parts: thoughtfully executed Italian cuisine, a cozy setting, and appealing prices. This sibling of neighbor Cha Cha’s does winning arancini, steamed mussels, house-made pappardelle, and a fine branzino. Happy hour features steep discounts on terrific appetizers and signature

Italian cocktails. 210 W. Birch St., 714-257-1000. $$

CHA CHA’S LATIN KITCHEN

This cool hang with a wraparound sidewalk patio is Birch Street Promenade’s most enduring dining success. Helmed by industry vets Don Myers and Peter Serantoni, the menu of modern Mexican fare is boosted by a wood-burning oven and new dishes that blur some borders—sopes, empanadas, aguachile, and pozole. Taco Tuesday is just one of many weekly specials. Impressive tequila menu. 110 W. Birch St., 714-255-1040. See Irvine location. $$

MACALLANS PUBLIC HOUSE

Chef Andrew Wang’s modern but comforting pub cooking is just one upgrade that’s helping this young venue finally catch on in North County. Topnotch whiskey offerings and a killer Irish breakfast on weekends also entice. Don’t miss the ridiculously authentic Irish coffee, or stop in for the very robust happy hour. The upscale vibe is a welcome switch from the usual timeworn pub conditions. 330 W.

Birch St., 714-529-1224. $$

OLD BREA CHOP HOUSE

North County’s fine diners can skip the trek south to splurge on old-school steakhouse dinners. Longtime Morton’s veteran Tony Fasulo breaks away, polishing the classy formula to a high sheen. Expect deluxe beef, say a Tomahawk chop or a strapping Delmonico, boosted with first-class seafood, precise cocktails, and cosseting service.

Marinated skirt steak is the sleeper call. Cozy yet utterly contemporary, the venue includes a 25-seat

OUR CRITERIA

Restaurants are reviewed by our dining critics and staff and have no relationship to advertising in Orange Coast. Listings are updated regularly. We do not accept free meals; visits are anonymous. Price classifications are based on a typical three‑course dinner (appetizer, entree, dessert) for one person. Alan Gibbons edits this listing. You can reach her at agibbons@orangecoast.com.

bar with charcuterie platters. 180 S. Brea Blvd., 714592-3122. Dinner only. $$$

CORONA DEL MAR

THE BUNGALOW

Comfy booths, a lively bar with stiff martinis, and lots of premium wines by the glass lure diners to this dinner house darling with the feel of a Craftsman home. Prime beef is king, but you also can get a huge Aussie lobster tail. Desserts are classic berries and cream, and chocolate souffle cake, so you can concentrate on your surf ’n’ turf. Lunch is hearty sandwiches and huge high-quality salads.

Just save us a seat on the charming patio. 2441 E.

Coast Highway, 949-673-6585. $$$

EL CHOLO

It’s combo-plate heaven at this venerable local chain that started in L.A. in 1923. The Sonora-style enchiladas are topped with a fried egg. Green corn tamales have achieved cult status. 3520 E. Coast

Highway, 949-777-6137. See Anaheim Hills and La

Habra locations. $

FARMHOUSE AT ROGER’S GARDENS

This beguiling patio is chef-owner Rich Mead’s fourth enterprise, an inspired collaboration between a farmer’s dream chef and O.C.’s iconic outdoor lifestyle retailer. The restaurant-gazebo seats 120 with rustic style, making this the fresh favorite for dates and celebrations. Mead’s seasonal menu shifts often to reflect his passion for local family farms and ranches. Craft cocktails have a farmers market tilt, and a nascent cheese program rounds out the ever-changing feast. 2301 San Joaquin Hills

Road, 949-640-1415. $$$

FIVE CROWNS

O.C.’s beloved, vine-covered, fine-dining landmark of 1965 stays current thanks to a refreshed menu by executive chef Alejandra Padilla (formerly with

Hillstone and Patina groups). Foodies thrill to foie gras brûlée and roast goose with wild grains, but sumptuous feasts of prime rib retain a hallowed spot on the carte at this Lawry’s-owned institution.

As always, service is polished and accommodating.

Leave room for the righteous sundae made with C.C.

Brown’s hot fudge, an old Hollywood marvel. 3801

E. Coast Highway, 949-760-0331. Dinner only. $$$

SIDEDOOR

Nested within the landmark Lawry’s Five Crowns, this gastropub welcomes come-asyou-are diners with a changing daily menu of imaginative small plates, seasonal soups, prime rib sandwiches, potpies, and desserts. Don’t miss the charcuterie station with choice cured meats and artisanal cheeses. Always interesting wines by the glass, craft beers, and signature cocktails boost the inviting room’s jolly British vibe. 3801 E. Coast Highway, 949-717-4322. $$

COSTA MESA [ SEE ALSO SOUTH COAST METRO ] 2145

Santa Ana native and Pizzeria Ortica veteran Eduardo Salcedo brings an artisan mindset and Japanese aesthetic to this Neapolitan-style pizza joint in a cleverly repurposed auto shop. Aromas of almondwood fire whet the appetite for his finely crafted pies and imaginative toasts on house-baked shokupan, Japan’s beloved breakfast loaf. Sit at the white Grilled octopus at Poppy & Seed

marble bar or under umbrellas on the patio to enjoy bresaola and burrata salad with pickled fennel, or hyper-tender octopus with diced potato, charred scallions, and squid ink mayo. 2145 Placentia Ave., 949-873-5853. Beer and wine. $$

DESCANSO

Descanso’s novel twist is the elevation of the taquero to center stage. Inspired by the dynamic street foods of Mexico City, owner Rob Arellano seats diners right at the plancha grill to watch their tacos sizzled with pizazz. Happy hour is particularly tempting if you can scoot in midweek, from 3 to 6 p.m. 1555 Adams Ave., 714-486-3798. $$

HABANA

Flickering candles light the way through a highceilinged dining room, convivial bar, and lush patio at The Lab’s enduring Cuban hang for date nights and late nights. Most of the fare sticks solidly to classics, such as roast chicken and ropa vieja, but the appetizer side is loaded with winners. Updates include a lavish, all-you-can-eat brunch with live island music and an array of delicious baked goodies.

Intimate confines make reservations a smart move. 2930 Bristol St., 714-556-0176. See Irvine location. $$$

MESA

At this high-style hipster hang with a retractable roof, expect shareable dishes that play by the seasons and don’t shy away from intense flavors. Highlights include mussels sizzled in cast iron and fried cicchetti olives. An interesting, value-packed wine list beckons, as do inspired artisan cocktails. 725

Baker St., 714-557-6700. $$$ OLD VINE KITCHEN & BAR

Popular for its brunch-type fare in a town rife with competing options, this charming nook has upgraded with a larger space. Foodies rave about urbane dishes, many with an Italian accent. Think barbecue pork omelet by day, seasonal tasting menu by night. Chef-owner Mark McDonald likes to pair his dinners with interesting wine flights from the world over, and he regularly leads culinary excursions to southern Italy. 2937 Bristol St., 714-545-1411. $$

PITFIRE ARTISAN PIZZA

The first O.C. shop from this thriving L.A.-based chain is not your nonna’s pizzeria. Upbeat and come-asyou-are casual, it’s a Cal-Ital original. A menu packed with classic and seasonal wood-fired pies, pastas, and salads has wide appeal, so this retooled Marie

Callender’s stays packed with fans of all ages. Check

FERNET ABOUT IT! | GLASSPAR

To forgive is to Fernet. A day with Fernet is a day without regret. When it comes to Fernet-Branca wordplay, you pronounce that T because the company that has produced it for 175 years is Italian. A bi er liqueur and digestif made with 27 botanicals, Fernet-Branca is known the world over as “the bartender’s handshake”—it’s the beverage that hospitality insiders order when together. Up to now secret, Glasspar’s Fernet-Branca cocktail menu o ers five concoctions ($14 each, $50 for a tasting). The Cure is made with Q ginger beer, Angostura bi ers, and expressed lemons; the tropical Fernety Island with Plantation rum, allspice dram, pineapple, and lime. Most pair surprisingly well with chef-owner Rob Wilson’s dishes, such as day-boat scallops with glazed pork belly, kohlrabi pear salad, and parsnip puree. Order one of the cocktails, and general manager Marcos Costas might recite one of his Fernet-inspired haikus or soliloquies. 24961 Dana Point Harbor Drive, Dana Point, 949-240-6243, glasspar.com —BENJAMIN EPSTEIN

out its back-door speakeasy, Pie Society. 353 E. 17th

St., 949-313-6333. $

TACO MARÍA

Every dish is a marvel of deeply considered modern Cal-Mex cuisine from chef-owner and O.C. native Carlos Salgado, who parked his esteemed food truck enterprise for this site. Even the stripped-down setting draws all attention to the food. Dinners are four-course prix fixe affairs, with thoughtful wine pairings. Lunch—when the tacos appear—is a more laid-back and affordable way to sample the refined slant that snagged Salgado a Michelin star and several James Beard nominations for chef awards. 3313 Hyland Ave., 714-538-8444. Beer and wine. $$$

DANA POINT

ENOSTEAK

The coast’s most intimate salon for ultrapremium steaks is discreetly tucked just off the lobby at this esteemed resort. Beef—be it grass-fed, grain-fed, bone-in, or dry-aged—is the star of a pithy-if-pricey menu that’s unabashedly loyal. Lavish compound butter s to enjoy alongside steaks are a house signature. Polished service and often enchanting desserts. The Ritz-Carlton, 1 Ritz-Carlton Drive, 949240-2000. $$$

GLASSPAR

Glasspar is a classic seafooder, oyster bar, and taproom. Veteran top toque and local Rob Wilson helms his dream retool of the old Mahé site, paused for dining but open for supporting the community with ultra-fresh goods and his five-star tips for serving seafood at home. A tight focus on topshelf cocktails is sure to be much appreciated once groups gather within toasting distance. 24961 Dana

Point Harbor Drive, 949-240-6243. $$$

RAYA

Steve Wan is executive sous chef at this posh-butrelaxed dining room conceived by celeb chef Richard Sandoval. After the eye-popping bluff-top ocean view, Pan-Latin seafood dominates the experience.

But prepare to see many Asian touches on the modern menu, in creative dishes that masterfully bend

ethnic borders. The Ritz-Carlton, 1 Ritz-Carlton Drive, 949-240-2000. $$$

FOUNTAIN VALLEY

AU LAC

A miraculous menu of traditional Vietnamese and

Chinese dishes, without meat or fish, comprises the self-described “humanese” cuisine at this New Agey bistro. A creamy fish-shaped loaf of tofu is unforgettable; so are the spring rolls. Even desserts are healthful, with fruity selections such as Rainbow in the Sky Pie. 16563 Brookhurst St., 714-418-0658. $$

THE RECESS ROOM

This city’s first gastropub exists because five childhood pals needed a local haunt for gathering after their weekly basketball game. Food and booze enjoy equal amounts of love at this 148-seat venue—a cleverly retooled former Coco’s. Expect small-batch, offbeat brews and ace craft cocktails, plus lots of rich, shareable noshes. Think tender octopus with toasted quinoa for contrast, luscious pork cheeks confit, and lime-yuzu panna cotta. 18380 Brookhurst

St., 714-377-0398. $$$

FULLERTON

THE CELLAR Superior Tree Care 9/3/03 11:35 AM Page 2 Fullerton’s abiding choice for classy, old-school French dining is a North County staple for romantic meals, thanks to an underground room that’s

ornate yet cozy. Expect swanky choices such as chateaubriand. 305 N. Harbor Blvd., 714-525-5682. $$$

KHAN SAAB DESI CRAFT KITCHEN

This halal bistro serves flavorful kebabs, curries, and street snacks alongside wood-fired wagyu steaks.

Creator and executive chef Imran Ali Mookhi applies a Michelin mindset acquired after years in fine-dining kitchens. 229 E. Commonwealth Ave., 714-853-1081. $$

GARDEN GROVE

NOVA KITCHEN & BAR

This glamorous sleeper is a terrific dinner choice for distinctive fare that nods to Japan,

Korea, and China. The handsome 35-seat covered patio is beyond fine. Executive chef Abel Vargas oversees a sizable menu that also includes showy sushi and top-shelf cocktails. Do consider the tuna tartare, corn tempura, or coriander-braised short rib. 12361 Chapman Ave., 714-696-0888. $$$

HUNTINGTON BEACH

LSXO

Step back in time to colonial Vietnam at this vest-pocket hideaway with only 28 seats. Chef-owner Tin Vuong amplifies his successful L.A. Little Sister act with a sultry setting (tucked inside of huge Bluegold) and uncompromising Viet fare inspired by his roots and frequent travels to South Vietnam. Nifty craft cocktails and luxe dishes such as salt and pepper lobster make a good date night,

but we also like the street-style noshes such as prawn crepes and lemongrass skewers. Fair warning: The uncensored rap soundtrack is not for all ears. 21016 Pacific Coast Highway, 714-374-0083. $$

PUESTO

This high-profile taqueria expands its O.C. presence with a third epic site, this one in Bella Terra. Eyecandy lighting, a rotating steampunk back bar, and breezy patio compete for attention alongside jazzy drinks and dramatic taco-centric eats. Handmade blue corn tortillas and cheesy Oaxacan fricos give these tacos a signature difference. Ask about the monthly taco special. 7821 Edinger Ave., 714-316-0151. $$ See Irvine and Anaheim locations.

SESSIONS

Surf City is the ideal spot for the second “West Coast deli,” this time across from the sand. Terrific sandwiches that eat like a meal for two are gourmet creations, meticulous stacks of top ingredients with exacting ratios, so every ’wich is scrumptious to the last bite. From-scratch soups, sides, and dressings. A surfer ethos extends to hearty breakfasts featuring

Kéan coffee and house-made granola. 414 Pacific

Coast Highway, 714-594-3899. Beer and wine. See

Irvine and Newport Beach locations. Fourth location (not reviewed) in Newport Beach at 101 Newport Center Drive. $

WATERTABLE

Here’s a rare bird, a hotel restaurant in a tourist resort that the locals love for lots of reasons. Progressive takes on global dishes, tip-top craft drinks, copious happy hours, and the steady hand of long-

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Facsimile: 714-776-0821

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time Chef Manfred Lassahn keep this venue on point. We return just for the white cheddar and thyme biscuits with seasonal butter. The new morning lineup of health-first bowls, smoothies, and toasts caters to beach runners. Hyatt Regency, 21500 Pacific Coast Highway, 714-845-4776. $$$

IRVINE

ANDREI’S CONSCIOUS CUISINE & COCKTAILS

Irvine’s ever-slicker business zone is a good home for this classy, top-floor, New American choice for power diners, office pals, and couples. Modern craft cocktails enhance a menu that blends California ingredients with global flavors. Top toque Porfiro

Gomez’s menu retains favorites such as the beef spring rolls, watermelon salad, and Duroc pork

T-bone. Happy hour is a standout in a crowded field. 2607 Main St., 949-387-8887. $$

BISTANGO

A longtime airport-area mainstay, Bistango has remained surprisingly contemporary, with creative dishes such as sweet, soulful garlic soup, and black truffle ravioli. It’s also a classy venue for live music, and its rotating art collection adds to the air of urban sophistication. 19100 Von Karman Ave., 949-752-5222. $$$

CHA CHA’S LATIN KITCHEN

This addition to the restaurant family owned by industry vets Don Myers and Peter Serantoni is an inviting casa with a menu of modern Mexican fare boosted by commendable new dishes that blur some borders—sopes, empanadas, aguachile, and pozole to name a few. The indoor-meets-outdoor patio by designer Thomas Schoos is a fine upgrade of the Brea flagship. Weekly specials add value and excitement. Impressive tequila menu. 13126 Jamboree Road, 714-408-7819. See Brea location. $$

HABANA

We waited 22 years for this glamorous Habana sibling, and it was worth it—a sprawling 300-seat compound that co-opts Cuba’s frozen-in-time splendor.

A roomy patio open to the sky is made intimate by high walls and lots of beautiful props and vignettes, with alcoves dedicated to house pastries and coffees. Despite the impressive scale, the menu hews tightly to the focused offerings at its Costa Mesa original. 708 Spectrum Center Drive, 949-419-0100.

See Costa Mesa location. $$$

JA JIAOZI

Handmade dumplings grace every table, anchoring meals rounded out with other hot and cold dishes.

First-timers, ask your able server for help. Top picks include steamed Flaming Hot and boiled Signature jiaozi, along with refreshing tofu-skin salad. Topnotch shrimp fried rice is a winner, too. 13776 Jamboree Road, Irvine, 714-786-8999. $$

LITTLE SISTER

This Irvine Spectrum spot is an XXL bistro to older sister shop LSXO. Chef-partner Tim Vuong musters a team that pulls off a bigger menu, bigger digs, and a bigger profile with ease. Find proven faves—the overstuffed Viet crepe and the Shaky Shaky Beef— plus new lunch porridges and banh mis streaming out of the kitchen to a bustling dining room. Vintage rap tracks and a crackerjack bar keep the vibe lively. 896 Spectrum Center Drive, 949-800-8798. $$$ Pork, shrimp, and crab dumplings at Little Sister

MEIZHOU DONGPO

Good seating, engaged service, and touches of elegance elevate this classy Sichuan dining room, a retool of a 6,000-square-foot Marie Callender’s in bustling Culver Plaza. Access is easy, and plentiful parking is free. Beyond that, it’s all about the Beijingstyle roast duck (whole, $77; half, $40), meticulously sliced into petals of tender meat crowned with crackling amber skin, for rolling into thin crepes.

Weeks of aging, drying, and lacquering coax out heady flavors. Spicy values include dan dan noodles and country-style sliced pork. 15363 Culver Drive, 949-433-5686. Beer and wine. $$$

PORCH & SWING

BEST NEW RESTAURANT 2021

This delightful indie serves a “taste of Charleston” starring original riffs on American classics and cocktails by Andrew Parish. Must-try dishes include roasted pork jowl over grits, amazing creamless creamed corn, and gorgeous salads. House-baked breads are a strength, too. The patio is lovely. 2010 Main St., 949-418-7988. $$

PUESTO

San Diego’s high-profile taqueria has two Irvine options for O.C. fans. Delectable tacos are the main event, elevated by crispy griddled Oaxacan cheese, and tortillas made by hand from organic, non-GMO, blue corn masa. The cheese is especially brilliant on vegetarian tacos. Always ask about the monthly taco special. The Park Place center location’s indoor-meets-outdoor venue is intimate and color-splashed. Park Place, 3311 Michelson

Drive, 949-608-7272; Los Olivos Marketplace, 8577

Irvine Center Drive, 949-608-9990. See Anaheim and

Huntington Beach locations. $$

SESSIONS

No. 3 is a charm for O.C.’s indie chainlet of “West

Coast” delis. Expect terrific sandwiches that eat like a meal for two, gourmet creations that are meticulous stacks of top ingredients with exacting ratios, so every ’wich is scrumptious to the last bite. Fromscratch soups, sides, and dressings. A beguiling lakeside setting beckons for lazy breakfasts featuring

Kéan coffee and house-made granola. 4736 Barranca Parkway, 949-333-3949. Beer and wine. See

Huntington Beach and Newport Beach locations.

Fourth location (not reviewed) in Newport Beach at 101 Newport Center Drive. $

TACO ROSA

With agave-sweetened margaritas, daily aguas frescas, and house-made churros, these flagships of the

Taco Mesa chain take fresh Mex to the max. Try the

Oaxacan enchiladas. 13792 Jamboree Road, 714-5056080. See Newport Beach location. $$

LAGUNA BEACH

BROADWAY BY AMAR SANTANA

Boy wonder chef Amar Santana and industry vet Ahmed Labbate decamped Charlie

Palmer to create this sexy urban bistro. Fans old and new keep the tight quarters humming to the backdrop of an open kitchen and vintage flicks playing on the flat-screen over the expansive bar. Santana’s dishes are opulent and intense. The wine list includes many notable half-bottles. 328 Glenneyre

St., 949-715-8234. $$$

CARMELITA’S KITCHEN DE MEXICO

This is the boutique version of Rancho Santa Margarita’s sprawling shop, but both offer top-notch

Cal-Mex fare. Expect prime beef in the steak tampiqueña, and Kurobuta pork in the wonderful carnitas. Don’t miss costillitas—baby back ribs topped with fried onions. Outstanding margaritas.

Warm, spiffy service. 217 Broadway St., 949-715-7829.

See Rancho Santa Margarita location. $$

THE DRAKE

The grown-ups sipping cocktails are here for a full serving of primo live music paired with the cuisine of Paul Gstrein (ex of

Bistango and Bayside). Laguna’s own Alec Glasser prevails in creating a dashing joint where both the musicians and the kitchen have serious chops. Diners dig into Euro-inflected dishes (try the lamb lollipops, the Alpine Melt, the chile-lime swordfish).

Musicians dig the highbrow sound system, and the room generates a superlative groove. 2894 S. Coast

Highway, 949-376-1000. $$$

DRIFTWOOD KITCHEN

With its gorgeous seaside panorama, this place perfectly illustrates the food-versus-view gamble.

Prudent choices on chef Rainer Schwarz’s seasonal menu include whole fried fish, an unusual entree pairing of butcher steak-pork belly, and tarts by pastry chef Rene Baez. 619 Sleepy Hollow Lane, 949715-7700. $$

MOZAMBIQUE

The eclectic cuisine shows influences of South Africa.

Peri-peri prawns, curries, and grilled meats are best bets. The wine list includes interesting selections from South Africa and New Zealand. 1740 S. Coast

Highway, 949-715-7777. $$$

NICK’S

Perched on Laguna’s prime stretch of Coast Highway, this urbane bar and grill lures grown-ups who prefer to skip the surfer grub scene in favor of tasty cocktails and a compact all-day menu of comfort classics with modern twists. Ace bets include the steakhouse salad and blackened halibut sandwich.

Softly lit and cushily appointed, the open-air space boasts a sidewalk patio. 440 S. Coast Highway, 949376-8595. See San Clemente location. $$

OLIVER’S OSTERIA

Wedged into an oddball canyon retail center, this tidy shop is chef-owner Erik De Marchi’s all-out defense of faithful fare inspired by his home turf of Italy’s Emilia-Romana region. Pastas are wondrous, but do wait to hear the daily specials that can include juicy lamb chops or crepes (crespelle) with porcini mushrooms in truffle-perfumed béchamel. Tight quarters make dining noisy when the room is full. And Oliver? He’s De Marchi’s first child, born on opening day. 853 Laguna Canyon

Road, 949-715-0261. $$$

SAPPHIRE CELLAR CRAFT COOK

The latest incarnation of Laguna Beach’s historic Coast Highway venue is much better than it has to be, given its bulletproof location.

Upmarket, innovative American cuisine by executive chef Jared Cook includes irresistible weekend brunch waffles and Benedicts, classy lunch salads, and dinners that star fresh oysters and a splendid ribeye. On-site pantry for beach eats. 1200 South

Coast Highway, 949-715-9888. $$$

SELANNE STEAK TAVERN

Anaheim Ducks star Teemu Selanne cements his brand with this polished and popular steak joint on a venerated stretch of Coast Highway.

Prime, pricey beef rules the day on executive chef

Vince Terusa’s menu designed for a pro athlete’s appetite and fan base. We like the main floor’s easy, breezy tavern for terrific cocktails, the superlative burger, and world-class people watching. 1464 S.

Coast Highway, 949-715-9881. Dinner only. $$$

SUEÑOS

This retooled historic venue is forging a contemporary Latin approach that blends the foodways of Mexico with those of Peru, Chile, Argentina, and

Puerto Rico. Mexico City-born Alan Sanz brings a worldly resumé to his executive chef post with

43

YEARS

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LA GALLERIA

Special Event for Mother of the Wedding

March 17-20

TINA MARIE’S SPRING FASHION SHOW Saturday, March 19, 10:30 am

RSVP required

DECKERS FINE GIFTS

Annual Easter Open House & Reyn Spooner Trunk Show

Sunday, March 20, 10-4 pm

CHARLESTON PROVENCE BOUTIQUE

Happy Hour | Saturday, March 26, 1-5 pm

Gift with purchase

RESTAURANTS

17th Street Grill 714.730.0003 Belacan Grill

MALAYSIAN BISTRO 714.505.9908 The Coffee Grinder 714.838.0960 The Crab Cooker 714.573.1077 El Torito 714.838.6630 Zov’s Bakery & Café 714.838.8855 Zov’s Bistro 714.838.8855

SERVICES

17th Street Optometry

OPTOMETRY 714.838.9664 Fancy Nails 714.730.4722 Fitness Fixe 714.838.5751 Fusion Hair 714.838.6000 Hair Industry The Salon 714.731.2530 Rebecca Pelletier Interiors 714.508.8581 Studio J

PILATES 714-721-1163 Tustin Chamber of Commerce & Visitors Center 714.544.5341 Winston’s Estate Gallery 714.508.0100

FASHION

A Perfect Fit

FINE LINGERIE 714.665.5994 Frank’s Menswear 714.730.5945 La Galleria

ELEGANT WOMEN’S APPAREL 714.544.6340 Tina Marie’s

BRIGHTON COLLECTION 714.505.1676 Touch of Class Refi nery 714.734.7749

SPECIALTY

AA Jewel Box 714.669.9966 Charleston Provence

BOUTIQUE 714.508.8581 Chemers Gallery 714.731.5432 Deckers Fine Gifts 714.832.7074 Discoveries

CONTEMPORARY CRAFTS 714.544.6206 H. Foster & Jackson 714.544.4635 Justin Porterfi eld, Ltd. 714.544.5223 enderlecenter.com | 714.731.2911

SEVENTEENTH STREET & YORBA ST., TUSTIN — 55 FRWY. NORTH OR SOUTH, EXIT SEVENTEENTH ST. EAST

polished fusion dishes including birria arepas, blackberry mole duck, epazote pesto pasta, and house-made desserts. Patio seating is popular, but the bar also beckons for a fine Cuban sandwich. 222 Ocean Ave., 949-715-8155 Closed Mondays. $$$

LAGUNA HILLS

IRONWOOD

The savvy team behind Vine in San Clemente notches another hit with this welcoming dinner house in a zone with scant options. Executive chef Jared Cook’s modern, seasonal menu roams from delicate to hearty, but all dishes showcase his knack for upping the crave factor. Examples: chicken schnitzel with mushrooms, Zinfandelbraised lamb shank with mint yogurt. Terrific craft cocktails shift with the seasons. On-point service from a gracious crew. 25250 La Paz Road, 949-4468772. Dinner only. $$$

LAGUNA NIGUEL

CALO KITCHEN + TEQUILA

Chic and breezy as a Baja resort, this sprawling spot has its act together, luring local crowds for upscale

Mexican classics. An unending flow of worthy margaritas keeps the white marble bar humming while the kitchen churns out well executed shrimp ceviche, carnitas, combo plates, and short rib enchiladas. Huge portions, sharp service, and modern digs seal the deal. Scores of sipping tequilas delight agave fans. 28141 Crown Valley Parkway, 949-4097380. $$$

HENDRIX

Teeming with natural light and coastal breezes, Hendrix swaggers into Laguna Niguel with a place that promises something for everyone in this optionlean suburb. It’s from the group behind Laguna

Beach’s The Deck and Driftwood Kitchen, and partner Austrian-born Rainer Schwarz is executive chef.

A showpiece rotisserie roasts plump chickens, porchetta, and lamb while basting potatoes in the catch bin with juices from the meats. Irresistible small plates include prosciutto fritters, Brussels sprouts with Marcona almonds, and chicken-fontina flatbread. 32431 Golden Lantern, 949-248-1912. $$

LA HABRA

EL CHOLO

It’s combo-plate heaven at this venerable local chain that started in L.A. in 1923. The Sonora-style enchiladas are topped with olives and a fried egg.

Green corn tamales (available seasonally) have achieved cult status. This location oozes a family vibe. 840 E. Whittier Blvd., 562-691-4618. See Anaheim Hills and Corona del Mar locations. $

MISSION VIEJO

DUBLIN 4 GASTROPUB

Publicans Darren and Jean Coyle welcome a varied crowd to this chipper modern pub, designed to rival Dublin’s finest. Executive chef

David Shofner applies fine-dining cred and scratch cooking to a menu of new and old-school fare that sparkles. Don’t-miss items include premium cottage pies, a killer lamb burger, and anything with Tian Provençal at Bouillon

house-cured meats. Upscale pricing and dapper surroundings prove this is not your frat brother’s

Irish pub. 26342 Oso Parkway, 949-582-0026. $$$

WINEWORKS FOR EVERYONE

This near-hidden pocket bistro is a top choice for wine-centric cuisine in South County. A retooled menu by chef David Shofner, who also helms the kitchen at Dublin 4 next door, brims with seasonal

California fare that flatters a wine list of West Coast and international bottles. Must-haves include sausage flatbread, and a killer cheese plate. 26342 Oso

Parkway, 949-582-0026. Beer and wine. $$$

NEWPORT BEACH

A&O KITCHEN + BAR

A serious reboot of this fabled lounge—formerly

Duke’s—transforms this waterside venue into a gastropub with a newly youthful vibe. Expect all the usual share plates: battered fries, shishito peppers, bacon-wrapped dates, plus several hearty plates including a worthy Kobe burger with bacon mayo on a cheddar-bacon bun. Bold, neonautical decor plays off the “anchors and oceans” theme and brings the bay view to life. The water’s-edge patio is inviting for sunset drinks or gathering ’round the fire pit. Balboa

Bay Resort, 1221 W. Coast Highway, 949-630-4285. $$

BAYSIDE

Classy Bayside remains a go-to choice on many fronts. Nightly happy hour stars a winning small-plates menu that keeps the bar hopping.

Rotating artwork keeps the dining room ever fresh for relaxed meals of debonair American fare. Long favored by the coastal set for jazzy brunches, insiders stop in Friday night for a legendary jam session in the bar. Prix fixe menus are a strength here. 900

Bayside Drive, 949-721-1222. $$$ BELLO BY SANDRO NARDONE

Previously of upmarket pizzeria Angelina’s, Sandro

Nardone flies solo with this molto moderno Italiano overhaul of a sprawling spot. Nardone’s style is urbane, so expect no lasagna here. Instead, look for distinctive creations such as mortadella mousse canoli with liquid pineapple mustard. Crispy octopus with Calabrian vinaigrette is another crowd favorite.

Cocktails show imagination, and the wine list has some rare gems. Coming soon, Nardone’s take on hip patio brunching. 1200 Bison Ave., 949-520-7191. $$$

BOUILLON

Indefatigable operator Laurent Vrigand, the founder of six Moulin cafes, debuts his first full-service restaurant—an homage to Paris’ Bouillon Chartier, his childhood favorite. Expect one all-day menu of nostalgic fare at painless prices, no substitutions, no reservations, and snappy service. Standouts include

tian Provençal, beef bourguignon, and profiteroles. 1000 N. Bristol, 949-418-9549. $$

FABLE & SPIRIT

BEST NEW RESTAURANT 2020

From the family behind Dublin 4 comes this lush addition to the area across from Lido Marina Village. But don’t assume this is an Irish pub that mimics the other. This plush room features inventive fare that’s a mashup of American and Irish. Here you start with

Hares Looking at You, a cocktail starring Wheatley vodka and carrot juice, move on to the refined beet agnolotti with chèvre foam, or share a woodfired duck confit pizetta. Yes, the fish and chips are superior, but so is the rabbit fricassee. 3441 Via Lido, 949-409-9913. $$$

LIDO BOTTLE WORKS

This handsome waterfront venue sounds like a liquor store, but it’s a sleeper of a full-service restaurant hiding in the swanky Lido Marina Village development. Hyper-seasonal and prettily plated, notable creations include Dory Fleet catches of the day, opulent Iberico secreto pork, a solid burger, and one glorious chocolate mousse. 3408 Via Oporto, 949-529-2784. $$

MOULIN

Moulin is the passion project of Paris native Laurent Vrignaud. After 30 years in the action-sports industry, he lives his longtime dream of serving bistro classics, selling oven-fresh baguettes and grab-and-go dishes, and peddling wines and other

French pantry items. The unfussy bistro and patio evoke Paris at every turn. It’s O.C.’s gathering spot for expats and Francophiles. 1000 Bristol St. North, 949-474-0920. Locations in Costa Mesa, Dana Point,

Laguna Beach, and San Clemente. $$

OLEA CELLAR CRAFT COOK

Eastside’s dapper dinner house is the latest offering from the polished crew behind sister restaurants Ironwood and Vine, a homegrown hospitality group. Fans of chef Jared Cook will recognize some familiar dishes from his sibling shops, but there are exclusives here, too. We’re mad for the opulent duck liver terrine with bacon and bourbon, and those fine oysters baked with blue crab in tarragon butter. Add top-notch cocktails and 50 notable wines by the glass. 2001 Westcliff Drive,

Newport Beach, 949-287-6807. Dinner nightly. $$$

SESSIONS

This busy “West Coast deli” on the peninsula crafts terrific sandwiches that eat like a meal for two. A surfer vibe extends to hearty breakfasts at 7 a.m. daily, starring Golden State Coffee Roaster coffee. 2823 Newport Blvd., 949-220-9001. Beer and wine.

See Huntington Beach and Irvine locations. Fourth location (not reviewed) in Newport Beach at 101

Newport Center Drive. $

SHOREBIRD

Hidden inside the Vue Newport enclave, Shorebird is invisible until you enter the airy split-level space dominated by its waterfront view.

Expect contemporary American fare plus familiar side detours for sushi and tacos. Best bets include

Duroc pork chop, lump crab cakes, avocado fries. 2220 Newport Blvd., 949-287-6627. $$$

SUSHI ROKU

The sixth location of this Cal-Japanese concept makes a huge impression with striking decor and vibrant cuisine. If the dining room’s busier than the sushi bar, blame the thoughtfully designed and executed menu, notably dishes such Jumbo lumped crab with heirloom beets at Olea Cellar Craft Cook

as fluke kumquat sashimi, blue crab tartare, prime ribeye Japonais, and the deconstructed s’mores. The creative sushi deserves a night all its own, and the bar and patio offer their own vibes. Look for scores of noodles, salads, and bento boxes at lunch, and sakes. 327 Newport Center Drive, 949-706-3622. $$$

TACO ROSA

With agave-sweetened margaritas and house-made churros, these flagships of the Taco Mesa chain take fresh Mex to the max. 2632 San Miguel Road, 949720-0980. See Irvine location. $$

TAVERN HOUSE KITCHEN + BAR

David Wilhelm, the county’s restaurant laureate, returns to Newport Beach with this fetching and welcome rehab of a waterside venue. Menus read like a playlist of Wilhelm’s champion recipes. Stand out new dishes for dinner and weekend brunch include red snapper Veracruzana, Buddha bowls, sirloin meatballs, and fried chicken with malted waffles. Look for a natty pre-sunset happy hour on weekdays. 333 Bayside Drive, 949-673-8464. $$

THE WINERY RESTAURANT & WINE BAR

The snazzy venue overlooks the yacht and Duffy boat traffic in Newport Harbor, flaunting its waterfront charms with 180-degree views from two floors plus a cigar patio. The space sizzles with bonhomie— and diners who love their surf, turf, wine, and VIP treatment. Expect cosseting service from partners JC

Clow, William Lewis, and executive chef Yvon Goetz. Best bets include Goetz’s signature Alsatian “pizza” and the Colorado buffalo carpaccio. 3131 W. Coast Highway, 949-999-6622. See Tustin location. $$$

NEWPORT COAST

THE BEACHCOMBER

The surf’s-edge view might be better than the food, but the drinks and eats are good enough to keep this iconic spot packed with beachgoers. Stick with basics such as grilled artichokes, lobster club, and stuffed salmon. Executive chef Carlos Olivera oversees the seasonal breakfast, lunch, and dinner menus. 15 Crystal Cove, 949-376-6900. $$$

MARCHÉ MODERNE

BEST NEW RESTAURANT 2018

The finest French bistro south of Beverly Hills is reborn in coastal digs that express a fresh chapter for the redoubtable Florent and Amelia Marneau. Added space and oversize windows let the outdoors into a room that oozes grace and sophistication. Beloved dishes such as Spanish octopus with chorizo return to the dinner menu alongside new creations from the open kitchen—think crispy suckling pigs and beans, a three-day cassoulet. Amelia’s new desserts include ravishing Napoleons served weekends only. 7862 E. Pacific Coast Highway, 714-434-7900. $$$

WASA SUSHI

James Hamamori cemented his stardom at this striking shopping-center spot brimming with devotees of modern spins on sushi. Renowned for such fare as salmon with ginger sauce and fresh orange. Exceptional selection of salads, appetizers, and entrees as well. 1344 Bison Ave., 949-760-1511.

Beer and wine. $$

ZOV’S NEWPORT COAST

This attractive shopping center offshoot of the popular original Zov’s in Tustin is a go-to patio cafe that lures locals with creative Cal-Med dishes such as

Moroccan salmon salad, spiced lamb burger, and pomegranate baby back ribs. Desserts are a standout, as are cocktails and chic mezze starters. 21123

Newport Coast Drive, 949-760-9687. See Tustin location. $$$

ORANGE

BOSSCAT KITCHEN & LIBATIONS

Old Towne’s newest gastropub thoughtfully transforms a historic corner into a lively whiskey bar serving worthy eats with a southern accent. Look for Parm-crusted meatloaf, gulf shrimp and grits, and a yowza burger. The service is sharp. Sunday brunch and a robust midweek happy hour. 118 W.

Chapman Ave., 714-716-1599. $$ HAVEN CRAFT KITCHEN + BAR

A serious contender in the gastropub category, this popular storefront in Old Towne lures a mixed crowd of brew fanatics and foodies, thanks to a rich roster of esoteric suds and polished pub grub from chef Craig Brady. Dishes such as a braised lamb pappardelle and coriander roasted baby carrots. Lunch and early dinner are options for bypassing the deafening din that rises with the crowd. 190 S. Glassell

St., 714-221-0680. $$

RANCHO SANTA MARGARITA

THE BLIND PIG KITCHEN & BAR

Lakeside seats, terrific craft cocktails, and daring fare by young chef Karl Pfleider earn local love for this rare gastro-canteen in Rancho

Santa Margarita. Midweek tapas start at 3 p.m. with goodies such as steak tartare with pistachio XO sauce. But wait until 5 p.m. for the mahi-mahi with paprika mole. 31431 Santa Margarita Parkway, 949888-0072. Second location (not reviewed) in Yorba

Linda, 4975 Lakeview Ave., 714-485-2593. $$

CARMELITA’S KITCHEN

This lakefront sprawler offers top-notch Cal-Mex fare from the culinary vision of owner Clemente

Heredia Jr., a third-generation operator. Expect prime beef in the steak tampiqueña, Kurobuta pork in the wonderful carnitas. Outstanding margaritas.

Warm, spiffy service. 31441 Santa Margarita Parkway, 949-709-7600. See Laguna Beach location. $$

SAN CLEMENTE

NICK’S

On a prime stretch of vintage Avenida del Mar, this inviting bar and grill is just urbane enough to lure grown-ups who prefer to skip the surfer grub scene in favor of crackerjack cocktails and a compact allday menu of comfort classics with a modern twist.

Ace bets include the steakhouse salad and blackened fish sandwich. And there’s a sidewalk patio Osso buco at Mayfield

with fireplace. Sociable service is notably polished. 213 Avenida Del Mar, 949-481-2200. See Laguna

Beach location. $$ SOUTH OF NICK’S

From the festive boxes of Chiclets at the reception station to scores of fine-sipping tequilas at the roomy bar, this beach burg shop from the team behind Nick’s is all about hospitality and scratch cooking. Cocktails are special, so are desserts, but don’t miss the feel-good dishes such as mini-sopes, sea bass in poblano cream, and pork chile verde. 110

N. El Camino Real, 949-481-4545. Second location (not reviewed) in Laguna Beach at 540 S. Coast Hwy., 949-376-8595. $$

VINE

A decor revamp of the cozy dining room and a menu overhaul add up to impressive new heights, because owner Russ Bendel Jr. wisely gives sauce monster and executive chef Jared Cook full reign over the kitchen. Look for killer duck wings and nightly specials that tend to sell out. A garden out back only sweetens this beach burg gem. 211 N. El Camino Real, 949-361-2079. Dinner only. $$$

SAN JUAN CAPISTRANO

MAYFIELD

Modern, hyper-seasonal California fare meets the timeless food ways of the Middle

East at this ingenious newcomer. Breezy two-story digs include a pretty quartz bar for leading-edge

cocktails. Do try fried eggplant, lamb meatballs, and shareable dips. By day, look for indulgent brunch dishes. 31761 Camino Capistrano, 949-218-5140. $$$

RAMOS HOUSE CAFÉ

A sweet adobe hiding in the historic Los Rios district,

Ramos House Café turns out some of South County’s most delectable daytime fare. Contemporary and clever American breakfasts and lunches (brunch on weekends) have a distinct Southern accent that fits the rustic, alfresco setting with passing trains as soundtrack. Look for ethereal biscuits and crab hash. 31752 Los Rios St., 949-443-1342. $$

SANTA ANA [ SEE ALSO SOUTH COAST METRO ] BENCHMARK

Quirky but capable, this Santa Ana newcomer goes all-in for alfresco, luring diners with a tree-shaded setting on a vintage residential street. The modest menu of American bistro dishes is just big enough to have wide appeal. Happy hour and weekend brunch have a backyard party vibe. Dinner surprises with upmarket dishes, say a lovely bavette steak atop celery root puree. 601 E. Santa Ana Blvd., 714-480-0225. $$

MIX MIX KITCHEN BAR

BEST NEW RESTAURANT 2017

DTSA got a major dining upgrade with this winner from chef-owner Ross Pangilinan. A veteran of highend dining, his major culinary chops rule the day but not the tab at his breakout venue with zero

pretension and multicourse meals packed with finesse. Think prosciutto toast with quince honey, and seared foie gras with al pastor spices and charred pineapple. Spiffy craft cocktails, too. 300 N. Main St., 714-836-5158. Dinner only. $$$

SOUTH COAST METRO

ANQI

Tight focus on the fare makes dining at this South Coast Plaza hot spot better than ever.

Executive chef Ron Lee makes delicious harmony with matriarch master chef Helene An’s spicy beef tacos and roasted New Zealand lamb rack, as well as her fabled roast crab (Tuesday only). Zen chic decor turns heads. Drinks at the dramatic bar dazzle the cocktail crowd, but try Sunday brunch for a more kickback experience, or snag a padded stool at the adjacent noodle bar. 3333 Bristol St., 714-5575679. $$$

DIN TAI FUNG

Fans happily endure long waits to satisfy their craving for xiao long bao, juicy pork dumplings, handpleated with care. Bowls of noodles, rice, and stacks of bamboo steamers crowd tables as diners blend their own aromatic dipping sauce from rich soy, black vinegar, and shreds of fresh ginger. 3333 Bristol St., 714-549-3388. $$

KNIFE PLEAT

Knife Pleat replaces long-gone Marché Moderne in the penthouse of South Coast Plaza.

The radically transformed 80-seat setting is a clear signal that this French arrival is wholly apart from its predecessor. Chef Tony Esnault and partner Yassmin Sarmadi are new to O.C. though acclaimed in

Los Angeles, and in the case of Esnault, covered in

Michelin star dust after years with mentor Alain

Ducasse. Esnault is a disciple of the seasons; his style is light, graceful, and precise as revealed by escargot ravioli in broth, his famous legumes de saison, or the ultrarefined cassoulet. Don’t skip Germain Biotteau’s indulgent desserts. 3333 Bristol St., 714-266-3388. $$$

PARADISE DYNASTY

Singapore’s largest restaurant group opts for the

Bloomingdale’s end of South Coast Plaza for its first

U.S. operation with this wildly popular soup dumpling specialist that pioneered xiao long bao, oozing with luxury ingredients that include black truffles, foie gras, and crab roe. Ultramodern digs seat diners in view of an exhibition kitchen where 20 artisans handcraft a steady flow of dumplings to support a 75-dish menu starring dim sum and Sichuan classics.

Walk-up wait list. 3333 Bristol St., 714-617-4630 $$

TERRACE BY MIX MIX

Canny chef-owner Ross Pangilinan leverages the success of his original Mix Mix Kitchen Bar in downtown Santa Ana with this minimalist aerie overlooking the stylish Bridge of Gardens skywalk at South

Coast Plaza. This venue lacks a full bar, but it has wine and beer and is open daily with ample free parking. Fans love the three-course lunch for $20, but weekend brunch with its mimosa cart beguiles, and dinner offers the best prix fixe in the center.

Don’t-miss dishes include Asian ribs, hamachi crudo, and pork cheek adobo. 3333 Bear St., 657-231-6447. $$

VACA

Top chef Amar Santana and ace partner Ahmed

Labbate return to Costa Mesa with an exuberant, singular ode to Spain. Santana sidesteps the “eat Mussels with longanisa sausage at Terrace by Mix Mix

local” crusade, offering peerless jamon Iberico, lush bomba rice for paellas, and verdant Mahon gin for cocktails. Dozens of authentic tapas beg to be tried, but do consider excellent wood-grilled steaks, dry-aged in-house. 695 Town Center Drive, 714-463-6060. $$$

TUSTIN

CENTRO STORICO

Old Town Tustin’s new kid on the old block transforms a vintage building into a spaghetteria and bar, plus a back pocket cafe. Artisan, fresh daily pasta is the latest effort from the Pozzuoli family behind

Centro, the excellent micro pizzeria next door. Signature dishes include Capperi e Olive (casarecca),

Aglione (bucatini), and grilled porterhouse for two. 405 El Camino Real., 714-258-8817. $$

THE WINERY RESTAURANT & WINE BAR

The O.C. power crowd doesn’t care that this isn’t a winery, but a huge, handsome restaurant that attracts disciples of steak, wine, and cigars. They’re exactly the folks you’d expect would follow partners JC Clow and William Lewis from their previous gig at Morton’s, with executive chef Yvon Goetz in tow. Best bets include Goetz’s signature Alsatian

“pizza” and the Colorado buffalo carpaccio. 2647 Park

Ave., 714-258-7600. See Newport Beach location. $$$

THE YELLOW CHILLI

This place is by Sanjeev Kapoor, India’s megacelebrity chef. The massive menu proves the master chef isn’t stingy with recipes, after writing more than 150 cookbooks. Knowledgeable servers help navigate the options. Don’t miss Sham

Savera: open-face spinach dumplings filled with fresh white paneer that float in silky tomato gravy spiked with garlic, cardamom, and mace. 2463 Park

Ave., 714-389-5280. $$

ZOV’S TUSTIN BISTRO

Fans love Zov Karamardian’s modern, creative way with Mediterranean flavors. Zov keeps her flagship venue fresh and stylish. Expect Cal-Med dishes such as Moroccan salmon salad, spiced lamb burger, and pomegranate baby back ribs. Desserts are a standout, as are cocktails and chic meze starters. The patio cafe out back stays busy at lunch and weekend breakfast. 17440 E. 17th St., 714-838-8855.

See Newport Coast location. $$$

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