FOOD & DRINK Roxy’z in Anaheim is a stunning departure from family tradition.

FOOD DRINK

CHILE-GLAZED BABY BACK RIB STACK

THE DISH Try this spicy take on a classic barbecue dish from the same dining family that started Zov’s Restaurants. THE DETAILS Roxy’z dry spice rub, gochujang barbecue sauce, pickled Fresno chiles, green onion, ginger, and a cilantro garnish THE PRICE $15.95 THE PLACE Roxy’z TURN THE PAGE for our review.

MAIN COURSE

ROXY’Z

Anaheim newcomer is a stunning departure from family tradition. by Gretchen Kurz

Idare anyone to cite a more delicious American dream saga than that of Zov Karamardian and family. What started with her three-table cafe in 1987 is today a hospitality juggernaut with outposts throughout Orange County. Her now-familiar name is synonymous with delectable. Yet her newest venture isn’t a Zov’s—it’s a Roxy’z.

The original Anaheim venue shuttered for months to resurface as a breezy watering hole inspired by Roxy, mother of Zov and reputed family renegade and hospitality dynamo.

One peek at the hip list of scratch cocktails says this is something di erent. The slate of local brews scribbled on the bar’s blackboard confirms these o erings are quite outside the Zov’s canon. Windows flood the island bar with sunlight, supplying a view of the patio and busy intersection just beyond. Multistory townhomes are sprouting like mushrooms after a rainstorm in this neighborhood, and the vibe is increasingly urban.

Large prints of historic Anaheim places and moments surround the interior. There’s even one of a smiling Roxy in 1958—it begs for explanatory details. Big windows open to fresh air and tra c noise, but here’s hoping for the day windows can close and not compete with the likable playlist.

A most excellent Paper Plane cocktail pairs well with eavesdropping on the post-work crowd dribbling in. My friend arrives, and we migrate to a banquette deep inside the no-frills dining space. Most signature dishes aren’t on

LEFT (Clockwise from top) Panzanella salad, shrimp and avocado tostadas, and crispy eggplant fries with sesameseed breading RIGHT Bu ermilk fried chicken sandwich with a delicate slaw this menu. Clearly, we are being nudged into new territory, with the owners trusting that diners will trust in Zov.

Crispy eggplant fries are hissing-hot spears with sesame-seed breading that outclasses any mainstream fried zucchini. Chipotle mayo flatters the crunchy dippers. Six baby back ribs with sweet-spicy red chile glaze easily release their sticky meat. Onion strings are a welcome ride-along, though hardly necessary to make this starter a winner. Petite tostadas recall zesty shrimp-avocado ceviche, fancified with pickled onion, napa cabbage, and chipotle spread.

All starters are ideal for sharing—most are large enough to make you forget there is no fabled Zov’s golden lentil soup to be had here. I’ve yet to visit and not order the Duroc pork belly over velvety hummus dotted with scarlet harissa. The meaty braised slabs are expertly rendered for utmost texture, and gutsy harissa

1801 E. Katella Ave. Anaheim 714-280-9687

5 BEST DISHES

’Panzanella ’Chile-glazed rib stack ’Buttermilk fried chicken sandwich ’Lamb sausage pizza ’The Roxy Burger

PRICE RANGE

Starters and salads, $8.95 to $12.95; Pizzas and sandwiches, $13.95 to $17.95; Entrees, $19.95 to $26.95

FYI Free ground oor garage parking

is there for the taking or avoiding when scooping the hummus with triangles of pliant pita bread.

Salads are few but discerning. There’s a Caesar with house croutons and snippets of kale and proper ParmigianoReggiano. The tomato-cucumber salad is a perfect ratio of Persian cucumbers, tiny tomatoes, red onion, and mild feta slicked with minty lemon vinaigrette. Crunchy, warm ciabatta chunks anchor panzanella, a mix of lettuces, leafy basil leaves, smidgeons of soft feta, and heirloom tomatoes all gilded with herby dressing. This is the one to upgrade with grilled salmon or a kebab.

Pizzas just might be the menu’s superpower. It’s a new category for this team, and clearly the challenge was tackled with gusto. There’s not a weak choice among the five variations built on a 14-inch, medium-weight crust with all the best attributes—crispy or chewy where it counts and flavor deep enough to enjoy on the unadorned bones. I couldn’t wait to attack leftovers of the spicy lamb sausage with caramelized onions. Meatza Pizza has a witty name, but it earns meat credit with pork belly, lamb sausage, pancetta, and pepperoni topping mozzarella and organic tomato sauce. Ditch tomatoes for a white pizza of wild mushrooms amid fontina, goat cheese, and fresh thyme.

A mean burger is a nonnegotiable for a place such as Roxy’z, especially given the rotating, well-chosen taps. The Roxy Burger delivers with its half pound of superb ground chuck, charbroiled and simply adorned with superior cheddar on toasted brioche. Fried chicken tastes unusually clean and rich as the focus of a sandwich with delicate slaw. Sandwiches include tasty slender fries that somehow hold up once they cool down. A trio of popular Zov’s entrees hides in the favorites corner. This is where to satisfy that stubborn craving for ale-battered Icelandic cod and fries or the epic six-hour short rib and mushroom cream over tender pappardelle. It was all I could do to skip the platter of mixed charbroiled kebabs over alwaysimpeccable, buttery jasmine rice.

Both shareable desserts are a far cry from Zov’s renowned pastries. Apple pizza is unremarkable. The showy chocolate cake sundae-in-a-jar was a treacly letdown of inaccessible cake smothered in marshmallow flu (the server kindly struck it from the bill).

Bucking the trend in new restaurants, Roxy’z o ers a worthy happy hour, weekdays from 3 to 6 p.m. It’s slated to expand once baseball season begins. Also, look for beer flights starting soon.

Looking back over 35 years of growth and success, Zov and family have built a brand fueled by high standards and fearless adaptation. Roxy’z takes us back to the future of Anaheim, with high spirits and compelling fare.

PROMOTION

O.C. Scene PEOPLE | PARTIES | EVENTS | OPENINGS

Women of Chapman’s Holiday Luncheon

Women of Chapman, Chapman University’s 50-year-old support group, celebrated the 35th anniversary of its famed “Christmas at The Ritz” uncheon at Balboa Bay Resort. The 320-member crowd enjoyed greetings from Santa, a quartet of spirited Dickens Carolers, a cocktail reception, real-life toy soliders and snow sprites, and a hot-hot St. Nick’s Picks opportunity drawing before entering the decorated ballroom. The signature four-course menu with the famous Ritz Egg pleased all, as did the live auction, which saw President Emeritus Jim Doti’s carved wooden bowl sell for $12,000 to WOC supporter Kay Burra. Net proceeds of nearly $320,000 was garnered.

Photo Credit: Tony Lattimore and Peggy O’Donnell