FOOD
M A I N
DRINK
C O U R S E
ROXY’Z
Anaheim newcomer is a stunning departure from family tradition. by Gretchen Kurz
I
dare anyone to cite a more delicious American dream saga than that of Zov Karamardian and family. What started with her three-table cafe in 1987 is today a hospitality juggernaut with outposts throughout Orange County. Her now-familiar name is synonymous with delectable. Yet her newest venture isn’t a Zov’s—it’s a Roxy’z. The original Anaheim venue shuttered for months to resurface as a breezy watering hole inspired by Roxy, mother of Zov and reputed family renegade and hospitality dynamo. One peek at the hip list of scratch cocktails says this is something different. The slate of local brews scribbled on the bar’s blackboard confirms these offerings are quite outside the Zov’s canon. Windows flood the island bar with sunlight, supplying a view of the patio and busy intersection just beyond. Multistory townhomes are sprouting like mushrooms after a rainstorm in this neighborhood, and the vibe is increasingly urban. Large prints of historic Anaheim places and moments surround the interior. There’s even one of a smiling Roxy in 1958—it begs for explanatory details. Big windows open to fresh air and traffic noise, but here’s hoping for the day windows can close and not compete with the likable playlist. A most excellent Paper Plane cocktail pairs well with eavesdropping on the post-work crowd dribbling in. My friend arrives, and we migrate to a banquette deep inside the no-frills dining space. Most signature dishes aren’t on
this menu. Clearly, we are being nudged into new territory, with the owners trusting that diners will trust in Zov. Crispy eggplant fries are hissing-hot spears with sesame-seed breading that outclasses any mainstream fried zucchini. Chipotle mayo flatters the crunchy dippers. Six baby back ribs with sweet-spicy red chile glaze easily release their sticky meat. Onion strings are a welcome ride-along, though hardly necessary to make this starter a winner. Petite tostadas recall zesty shrimp-avocado ceviche, fancified with pickled onion, napa cabbage, and chipotle spread. All starters are ideal for sharing—most are large enough to make you forget there is no fabled Zov’s golden lentil soup to be had here. I’ve yet to visit and not order the Duroc pork belly over velvety hummus dotted with scarlet harissa. The meaty braised slabs are expertly rendered for utmost texture, and gutsy harissa
1801 E. Katella Ave. Anaheim 714-280-9687 5 BEST DISHES Panzanella Chile-glazed rib stack Buttermilk fried chicken sandwich Lamb sausage pizza The Roxy Burger PRICE RANGE Starters and salads, $8.95 to $12.95; Pizzas and sandwiches, $13.95 to $17.95; Entrees, $19.95 to $26.95 FYI Free groundfloor garage parking
LEFT (Clockwise from top) Panzanella salad, shrimp and avocado tostadas, and crispy eggplant fries with sesameseed breading RIGHT Buttermilk fried chicken sandwich with a delicate slaw photograph by E M I LY J . D AV I S
March 2022 • OR A NGE COAST 53
