4 minute read
FOOD & DRINK Spice lures foodies to Miirch Social in Fullerton.
FOOD DRINK
MANGO AVOCADO ARUGULA BERRY SALAD
THE DISH Arugula with mango, avocado, strawberries, blueberries, toasted almonds, and a sweet-spicy mango dressing THE DETAILS Diners can add protein for $3. THE PRICE $12 THE PLACE Miirch Social in Fullerton TURN THE PAGE for our review.
MAIN COURSE
MIIRCH SOCIAL
Spice lures foodies to this new spot in downtown Fullerton. by Gretchen Kurz
Five years ago, this address was all about the beer when Evans Brewing Co. debuted a slick retool. I didn’t realize it was gone until Miirch Social quietly opened in the space in November. Though it looks mostly unchanged, the aromas make it clear that today, it’s all about the spice.
Downtown Fullerton is rebounding nicely from last year’s covid contraction: The sound of laughing brunchers and cheering fans echoes about the alleys and parking lots once more. Miirch Social is a good fit here.
The small kitchen and handsome 16-stool bar churn out an impressive menu of made-toorder options. The cocktail lineup alone is daunting, but start there anyway because you’ll need fortification for decision-making. A dozen taps allow room for some unusual players, but it’s a shame no hyper-local brews appear here, given that some are minutes away. Signature drinks are ingenious and precisely executed. The mezcal Manhattan surprises with a perfect balance of spice, sweet, and smoke. My gin-only friend fell for his Tarabooj martini despite its flashy components of saffron, watermelon, and orange bitters. I suggest bu ering said booze with snacky bites such as the fiery gunpowder hummus or crushed samosas with tamarind glaze. Next visit, I’m ordering the freshly griddled kulcha (flatbread) with cheddar and jalapeno.
LEFT Clockwise from top: Prawn koliwada, Miirch mezcal Manha an, tru e oil chicken tikka, biryani with pastry lid, naan chips, gunpowder hummus, Old-Fashioned RIGHT Gulab jamun cheesecake
Sensing a theme yet? Miirch is not your 2019 bu et lunch Indian joint. Founder Jesse Singh’s passion project is a relaxed haunt that leans modern. Most items are traditional dishes tweaked with global ingredients, or Indian flavors applied to popular non-Indian fare. Think butter chicken paneer poutine, onion and gorgonzola naan, or nine-spice tandoori wings. Sidhant Sehgal (once of Beverly Hills’ Spice A air) is executive chef, commandeering an open kitchen with no place to hide. Sit close for a free show. Long banquettes beg for small groups, but for the solo diner, check out the muted vintage movie behind the bartender. Last time it was “Lawrence of Arabia.”
Asking a server for advice is always dicey. It’s one thing to ask about something relatively objective, say serving size, as in “Will this dish serve two or three?” But venturing into a subjective area is fraught. So what a delight to learn
138 W. Commonwealth Ave. Fullerton 714-519-3501
5 BEST DISHES
Samosa chaat Lamb biryani Rogan josh Black dal Tarabooj martini
PRICE RANGE
Appetizers, $8 to $15 Entrees, $12 to $20 Drinks, $6 to $14 FYI Miirch is Hindi for spice or green chile.
the biryani truly is best with lamb, just as the waiter suggested. The marinated chopped lamb imbues the fl u y basmati rice with savory notes the chicken can’t match. A lid of dough bakes to a crust that, when cracked open, releases a rush of aromas—cardamom, turmeric, cloves, chiles—from the steamy layers of colorful rice, meat, and aromatics. This is a great rendition that goes with almost anything else on the menu. Long-simmered black dal (lentils) are complex and sumptuously rich. Vegetarian and gluten-free folks, this is for you. So is the smashing gobhi bezule, crispy, batter-fried caulifl ower sauteed with mustard seeds and coconut milk. The rising popularity of caulifl ower creates waves of copycat recipes, but this is one to order when you are weary of caulifl ower pizza crust or roasted fl orets in bu alo sauce.
I like that this versatile all-day menu goes as light as the vivid mango avocado arugula berry salad with toasted almonds
in a sweet-zesty dressing that pairs well with an icy, spicy lemonade. And that it tilts robust with a red curry rogan josh loaded with fennel in a saucy gravy that demands a side of lofty, slender-Superior Tree Care 9/3/03 11:35 AM Page 2 grained rice. Follow the comfort food curry with the rich, house-made cheesecake with a crust of Parle G tea cookies in lieu of graham crackers.
Mashups can fall fl at, but at Miirch Social they soar. Much credit goes to the discerning kitchen and clever beverage agenda. Add great pricing and welcoming service, and there’s every reason fl avor fi ends should become fast friends with Miirch Social.
Rustic, modern, California comfort food with an ocean view.
Call (949) 940-3010 for reservations.
Just steps away from Oak Street Beach.
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