DINING GUIDE Some of our 200-plus restaurant reviews

NOTE FROM THE EDITOR

AS OF PRESS TIME IN EARLY APRIL, RESTAURANTS WERE ALLOWED TO SERVE DINERS IN LIMITED CAPACITY. RULES CHANGE OFTEN: PLEASE USE THIS GUIDE AS A STARTING POINT, THEN CALL THE RESTAURANT TO LEARN ABOUT RESTRICTIONS AND RESERVATIONS. DESCRIPTIONS HERE ARE MOSTLY BASED ON DINING BEFORE SOCIAL DISTANCING.

MAY 2021

DINING GUIDE

ORANGE COUNTY’S DEFINITIVE SOURCE FOR RESTAURANT NEWS & MINIREVIEWS

PRICING $$$ $50 and up $$ Less than $50 $ Mostly less than $25

Denotes Critic’s Choice restaurant

ANAHEIM

CATAL RESTAURANT AND UVA BAR

Dead center in Downtown Disney, Catal is the Patina

Group’s nod to Spain’s Mediterranean cuisine.

Expect an urbane spin on rustic fare such as lobster paella, making this one of the zone’s better spots for fine dining. Just outside, Uva Bar is an alfresco saloon with light eats and great people-watching. 1580 Disneyland Drive, 714-774-4442. $$$

NAPA ROSE

Wine country thrives at the Disneyland Resort by way of this classy dinner house— no park admission required. Star chef Andrew

Sutton leads his crew in an exhibition kitchen, turning out imaginative, highly seasonal New American fare. The room mixes rustic with refined, and the notably wine-savvy waitstaff, many qualified as sommeliers, deftly tailors unforgettable meals around wines from one of the region’s finest cellars. Disney’s Grand Californian Hotel & Spa, 1313

Disneyland Drive, 714-300-7170. $$$

THE RANCH RESTAURANT & SALOON

Oozing top-notch ambition, The Ranch packs some big guns—executive chef Michael

Rossi and his brother David, pastry chef. The large venue also includes an upscale saloon and dance hall, sited in the six-story headquarters of Extron

Electronics. The whopping (mostly) seasonal American fare is a mashup of down-home and uptown. 1025 E. Ball Road, 714-817-4200. $$$

TRUE SEASONS ORGANIC KITCHEN

This sleek storefront by Saifon Plewtong now adds wraps, bowls, smoothies, and desserts to a menu that once focused solely on hot pots. Still, the spotlight is on organic, GMO-free local produce and all-natural proteins. Do try the fresh-pressed sugar cane juice for a refresher like no other in these parts. 5675 E. La Palma Ave., 714-462-9223.

Beer and wine. $$

URBANA

This colorful latecomer to the Anaheim Packing

House brings vibrancy and a cool cantina attitude to a food hall that really needed a good taco and mezcal cocktail. Executive chef Ernie Alvarado’s short menu of savvy street food changes often, and you can’t go wrong with his daily specials. Cozy surroundings offer a choice of ambience—festive or sultry. 440 S. Anaheim Blvd., 714-502-0255. $$

ANAHEIM HILLS

REUNION KITCHEN + DRINK

Popular with the locals, this dapper haunt oozes bonhomie thanks to a solid team led by industry vet

Scott McIntosh, whose feel-good American classics are consistently executed by a tight kitchen. Service is sharp. Look for a homey meatloaf, laudable fried chicken with yummy mashers and fresh biscuits, and house-made desserts. Modern cocktails and a roomy patio increase the pleasure factor. 5775

E. Santa Ana Canyon Road, 714-283-1062. Second location (not yet reviewed) in Laguna Beach. $$

BREA

CHA CHA’S LATIN KITCHEN

This cool hang with a wraparound sidewalk patio is Birch Street Promenade’s most enduring dining success. Helmed by industry vets Don Myers and Peter Serantoni, the menu of modern Mexican fare is boosted by a wood-burning oven and new dishes that blur some borders—sopes, empanadas, aguachile, and pozole. Taco Tuesday is just one of many weekly specials. Impressive tequila menu. 110 W. Birch St., 714-255-1040. See Irvine location. $$

MACALLANS PUBLIC HOUSE

Chef Andrew Wang’s modern but comforting pub cooking is just one upgrade that’s helping this young venue finally catch on in North County. Topnotch whiskey offerings and a killer Irish breakfast on weekends also entice. Don’t miss the ridiculously authentic Irish coffee, or stop in for the very robust happy hour. The upscale vibe is a welcome switch from the usual timeworn pub conditions. 330 W.

Birch St., 714-529-1224. $$

OLD BREA CHOP HOUSE

Finally, North County’s fine diners can skip the trek south to splurge on old-school steakhouse dinners. Longtime Morton’s veteran Tony

Fasulo breaks away, polishing the classy formula to a high sheen. Expect deluxe beef, say a Tomahawk chop or a strapping Delmonico, boosted with firstclass seafood, precise cocktails, and cosseting service.

Marinated skirt steak is the sleeper call. Cozy yet utterly contemporary, the venue includes a 25-seat bar with charcuterie platters and an alluring happy hour. 180 S. Brea Blvd., 714-592-3122. Dinner only. $$$

TAPS FISH HOUSE & BREWERY

Taps continues to be O.C.’s landmark pick for dining on a wide range of appealing seafood, pasta, steaks, and spunky New Orleans specialties that go down well with award-winning ales and lagers that change often. Happy hour is a big draw for valueseekers. Sunday brunch is a popular feast. 101 E.

Imperial Highway, 714-257-0101. $$

CORONA DEL MAR

FARMHOUSE AT ROGER’S GARDENS

This beguiling patio is chef-owner Rich Mead’s fourth and busiest enterprise yet, an inspired collaboration between a farmer’s dream chef and

O.C.’s iconic outdoor lifestyle retailer. The restaurantgazebo seats 120 with rustic style, making this the fresh favorite for dates and celebrations. Mead’s seasonal menu shifts often to reflect his passion for local family farms and ranches. Craft cocktails have a farmers market tilt, and a nascent cheese

OUR CRITERIA

Restaurants are reviewed by our dining critics and staff and have no relationship to advertising in Orange Coast. Listings are updated regularly. We do not accept free meals; visits are anonymous. Price classifications are based on a typical three‑course dinner (appetizer, entree, dessert) for one person. Alan Gibbons edits this listing. You can reach her at agibbons@orangecoast.com.

Margherita pizza at 2145

program rounds out the ever-changing feast. 2301

San Joaquin Hills Road, 949-640-1415. $$$

FIVE CROWNS

O.C.’s beloved, vine-covered, fine-dining landmark of 1965 stays current thanks to a refreshed menu by executive chef Alejandra Padilla (formerly with

Hillstone and Patina groups). Foodies thrill to foie gras brûlée and roast goose with wild grains, but sumptuous feasts of prime rib retain a hallowed spot on the carte at this Lawry’s-owned institution.

As always, service is polished and accommodating.

Leave room for the righteous sundae made with C.C.

Brown’s hot fudge, an old Hollywood marvel. 3801

E. Coast Highway, 949-760-0331. Dinner only. $$$

QUIET WOMAN

Perpetually packed with locals for decades, the

Q-Dub (as it’s known) pours mean drinks and notable wines by the glass, and keeps a teensy kitchen busy cranking out more-than-decent American grub such as filet mignon sliders and crab cakes, at prices that reflect the ZIP code. Most nights, a house band cranks up the decibels and enlivens the vibe. 3224 E. Coast Highway, 949-640-7440. $$

SIDEDOOR

Nested within the landmark Lawry’s Five Crowns, this gastropub welcomes come-asyou-are diners with a changing daily menu of imaginative small plates, seasonal soups, prime rib sandwiches, potpies, and desserts. Don’t miss the charcuterie station with choice cured meats and artisanal cheeses. Always interesting wines by the glass, craft beers, and signature cocktails boost the inviting room’s jolly British vibe. 3801 E. Coast Highway, 949-717-4322. $$

COSTA MESA [ SEE ALSO SOUTH COAST METRO ] 2145

Santa Ana native and Pizzeria Ortica veteran Eduardo Salcedo brings an artisan mindset and Japanese aesthetic to this Neapolitan-style pizza joint in a cleverly repurposed auto shop. Aromas of almond-wood fire whet the appetite for his finely crafted pies and imaginative toasts on house-baked shokupan, Japan’s beloved breakfast loaf. Sit at the white marble bar or under umbrellas on the patio to enjoy bresaola and burrata salad with pickled fennel, or hyper-tender octopus with diced potato, charred scallions, and squid ink mayo. Star dessert: horchata tiramisu. 2145 Placentia Ave., 949-873-5853.

Beer and wine. $$

CASABLANCA

Owner Abder Amokrane refreshes this venue with a new identity, decor updates, and menu upgrades.

The vast and ancient cuisine of the Mahgreb is nicely executed here with a bit of Spain (paella) and France (shrimp Provençale) included. Bountiful platters of appetizers span regions and centuries of legendary cuisine. Seating options aplenty mean this is a good call for gatherings of many sizes. But even the five-course dinner for two is appealing and a steal at $36 per person. 1976 Newport Blvd., 949423-7990. Dinner only. $$

DESCANSO

Descanso’s novel twist is the elevation of the taquero to center stage. Inspired by the dynamic street foods of Mexico City, owner Rob Arellano seats diners right at the plancha grill to watch their tacos sizzled with pizazz. Happy hour is particularly tempting if you can scoot in midweek, from 3 to 6 p.m. 1555 Adams Ave., 714-486-3798. $$

HABANA

Flickering candles light the way through a highceilinged dining room, convivial bar, and lush patio at The Lab’s enduring Cuban hang for date nights and late nights. Most of the fare sticks solidly to classics, such as roast chicken and ropa vieja, but the appetizer side is loaded with winners. Updates include a lavish, all-you-can-eat brunch with live island music and an array of delicious baked goodies.

Intimate confines make reservations a smart move. 2930 Bristol St., 714-556-0176. See Irvine location. $$$

IZAKAYA HACHI

A handsome, modern izakaya from the owners of Manpuku, Hachi is a boisterous, convivial gem.

The charcoal-grilled skewers shine, including the chicken meatball and chicken thigh. Expect a little bit of everything here: gloriously marbled beef, fresh oysters, composed salads, fried chicken, and unique pressed sushi. 3033 Bristol St., 657-231-6566.

Dinner only. $

MESA

At this high-style hipster hang with a retractable roof, expect shareable dishes that play by the seasons and don’t shy away from intense flavors. Highlights include mussels sizzled in cast iron and fried cicchetti olives. An interesting, value-packed wine list beckons, as do inspired artisan cocktails. 725

Baker St., 714-557-6700. $$$ OLD VINE KITCHEN & BAR

Popular for its brunch-type fare in a town rife with competing options, this charming nook has upgraded with a larger space. Foodies rave about urbane dishes, many with an Italian accent. Think barbecue pork omelet by day, seasonal tasting menu by night. Chef-owner Mark McDonald likes to pair his dinners with interesting wine flights from the world over, and he regularly leads culinary excursions to southern Italy. 2937 Bristol St., 714-545-1411. $$

PITFIRE ARTISAN PIZZA

The first O.C. shop from this thriving L.A.-based chain is not your nonna’s pizzeria. Upbeat and casual, it’s a Cal-Ital original. A menu packed with classic and seasonal wood-fired pies, pastas, and salads has wide appeal, so this retooled Marie Callender’s stays packed with fans of all ages. Check out its back-door speakeasy, Pie Society. 353 E. 17th St., 949-313-6333. $

TACO MARÍA

Every dish is a marvel of deeply considered modern Cal-Mex cuisine from chef-owner and O.C. native Carlos Salgado, who parked his esteemed food truck enterprise for this site. Even the stripped-down setting draws all attention to the food. Dinners are four-course prix fixe affairs, with thoughtful wine pairings. Lunch—when the tacos appear—is a more laid-back and affordable way to sample the refined slant that snagged Salgado a Michelin star and several James Beard nominations for chef awards. 3313 Hyland Ave., 714-538-8444. Beer and wine. $$$

DANA POINT

GLASSPAR

Now an improv market offering the primo seafood typically sold to coastal resorts, Glasspar launched as a classic seafooder, oyster bar, and tap room.

Veteran top toque and local Rob Wilson helms his dream retool of the old Mahé site, open for dining as well as supporting the community with ultra-

fresh goods and his five-star tips for serving seafood at home. A tight focus on top-shelf cocktails is sure to be much appreciated once groups gather within toasting distance. 24961 Dana Point Harbor

Drive, 949-240-6243. $$$

SALT CREEK GRILLE

Rambling Craftsman architecture and a lovely terraced patio supply a handsome backdrop for mesquitegrilled chophouse favorites and comfort classics.

The roomy lounge does a vigorous business when live music lures coastal partiers too chic for beach dives and too dignified for dance clubs. 32802 Pacific

Coast Highway, 949-661-7799. $$

FOUNTAIN VALLEY

THE RECESS ROOM

This city’s first gastropub exists because five childhood pals needed a local haunt for gathering after their weekly basketball game. Food and booze enjoy equal amounts of love at this 148-seat venue—a cleverly retooled former Coco’s. Expect small-batch, offbeat brews and ace craft cocktails, plus lots of rich, shareable noshes. Think tender octopus with toasted quinoa for contrast, luscious pork cheeks confit, and lime-yuzu panna cotta. 18380 Brookhurst

St., 714-377-0398. $$$

FULLERTON

THE CELLAR

Downtown Fullerton’s abiding choice for classy, oldschool French dining is a North County staple for romantic meals, thanks to an underground room that’s ornate, yet cozy. Expect swanky choices such as chateaubriand, and a fine dark chocolate souffle. 305 N. Harbor Blvd., 714-525-5682. $$$

KHAN SAAB DESI CRAFT KITCHEN

Born in the crucible of the pandemic, this halal bistro serves flavorful kebobs, curries, and street snacks alongside wood-fired Wagyu steaks. Creator and executive chef Imran Ali Mookhi applies a Michelin mindset acquired after years in fine-dining kitchens.

Khan Saab has the best stocked alcohol-free bar in

O.C. 229 E. Commonwealth Ave., 714-853-1081. $$

MIIRCH SOCIAL

NEW This Indian mashup is a relaxed haunt that leans modern. The open kitchen serves traditional Indian cuisine tweaked with global ingredients or Indian flavors applied to comfort foods.

Think butter chicken paneer poutine, nine-spice tandoori wings, and a fabulous lamb biryani. Don’t overlook the ingenious cocktails and mocktails. 138

W. Commonwealth Ave., 714-519-3501 $$

SUMMIT HOUSE

Set high above Fullerton’s northern city limits, this imposing Tudor manor house offers a sparkling citylights view at night, though the attractive grounds are pretty by day, too. The American menu offers few surprises; British-style prime rib and oak-grilled

Skuna Bay salmon are reliable. Polished service brings back plenty of special-occasion diners. The cozy tavern bar is popular for light meals and happy hour. 2000 E. Bastanchury Road, 714-671-4111. $$$ Tru e oil chicken tikka at Miirch Social

GARDEN GROVE

NOVA KITCHEN & BAR

This glamorous sleeper is a terrific dinner choice for distinctive fare that nods to Japan,

Korea, and China. The handsome 35-seat lanai covered patio is beyond fine. Executive chef Abel Vargas oversees a sizable menu that also includes showy sushi and top-shelf cocktails. Do consider the tuna tartare, corn tempura, or coriander-braised short rib. Genteel service. 12361 Chapman Ave., 714696-0888. $$$

HUNTINGTON BEACH

FISH CAMP

From Sam King of the King’s Fish House fleet comes this overtly dressed-down seafood cantina at the northern edge of coastal O.C. Order the day’s catch from the counter and await delivery of straightforward classics such as pristine oysters, ahi poke,

Idaho trout, and crab galore. Sandwiches, skewers, and worthy clam chowders also recommended. 16600 Pacific Coast Highway, 562-592-2267. $$

RED TABLE

The “red” in Red Table, Huntington Harbour mall’s neighborhood tavern, stands for “relax, eat, drink.”

The creative menu of American eats is big on highcarb snacks, savory share plates, and strapping proteins that feel right in a welcoming setting accented with quirky design elements and a red communal table. 16821 Algonquin St., 714-846-4700. Beer and wine. $$

SESSIONS

Surf City is the ideal spot for the second “West Coast deli,” this time across from the sand. Terrific sandwiches that eat like a meal for two are gourmet creations, meticulous stacks of top ingredients with exacting ratios, so every ’wich is scrumptious to the last bite. From-scratch soups, sides, and dressings. A surfer ethos extends to hearty breakfasts featuring

Kéan coffee and house-made granola. 414 Pacific

Coast Highway, 714-594-3899. Beer and wine. See

Irvine and Newport Beach locations. Fourth location (not reviewed) in Newport Beach at 101 Newport Center Drive. $

SLOW FISH

Easily overlooked in a strip mall along busy Bolsa

Chica, this slightly hip storefront serves distinctly modern Cal-Asian fare, artfully plated by chef Sean

An. Don’t miss the signature Fat Avo appetizer or entree of braised short rib over black rice. Good sakes, great prices, and a teensy sushi bar are unexpected extras. 16051 Bolsa Chica St., 714-846-6951. $$

WATERTABLE

Here’s a rare bird, a hotel restaurant in a tourist resort that the locals love for lots of reasons. Progressive takes on global dishes, tip-top craft cocktails, copious happy hours, and the steady hand of longtime Chef Manfred Lassahn keep this venue on point. We return just for the white cheddar and thyme biscuits with seasonal butter. The morning lineup of health-first bowls, smoothies, and toasts caters to beach runners. Hyatt Regency, 21500 Pacific

Coast Highway, 714-845-4776. $$$

IRVINE

ANDREI’S CONSCIOUS CUISINE & COCKTAILS

Irvine’s ever-slicker business zone is a good home for this classy, top-floor, New American choice for

Brown butter roasted maitake mushrooms at Porch & Swing

power diners, office pals, and couples. Modern craft cocktails enhance a menu that blends California ingredients with global flavors. Top toque Porfiro

Gomez’s menu retains favorites such as the beef spring rolls, watermelon salad, and Duroc pork

T-bone. Happy hour is a standout in a crowded field. 2607 Main St., 949-387-8887. $$

BISTANGO

A longtime airport-area mainstay, Bistango has remained surprisingly contemporary, with creative dishes such as sweet, soulful garlic soup, and black truffle ravioli. It’s also a classy venue for live music, and its rotating art collection adds to the air of urban sophistication. 19100 Von Karman Ave., 949-752-5222. $$$

CHA CHA’S LATIN KITCHEN

This addition to the restaurant family owned by industry vets Don Myers and Peter Serantoni is an inviting casa with a menu of modern Mexican fare boosted by commendable new dishes that blur some borders—sopes, empanadas, aguachile, and pozole to name a few. The indoor-meets-outdoor patio by designer Thomas Schoos is a fine upgrade of the Brea flagship. Weekly specials add value and excitement. Impressive tequila menu. 13126 Jamboree Road, 714-408-7819. See Brea location. $$

CUCINA ENOTECA

This 285-seat operation from San Diego’s Urban

Kitchen Group offers two sprawling patios and a huge, lively dining room with bar and wine minimarket, and the scene oozes chic with scads of handmade furnishings for sale. The Cal-Ital menu is equally large and inventive, from spreads in Mason jars and salumi platters to handmade pastas. Particularly good for large parties. 532 Spectrum Center

Drive, 949-861-2222. See Newport Beach location. $$

HABANA

We waited 22 years for this glamorous Habana sibling, and it was worth it—a sprawling 300-seat compound that co-opts Cuba’s frozen-in-time splendor.

A roomy patio open to the sky is made intimate by high walls and lots of beautiful props and vignettes, with alcoves dedicated to house pastries and coffees. Despite the impressive scale, the menu hews tightly to the focused offerings at its Costa Mesa original. 708 Spectrum Center Drive, 949-419-0100.

See Costa Mesa location. $$$

JA JIAOZI

It’s all about handmade dumplings here. They grace every table, anchoring meals rounded out with other hot and cold dishes. Firsttimers, ask your able server for help. Top picks include steamed Flaming Hot and boiled Signature jiaozi, along with refreshing tofu-skin salad. Topnotch shrimp fried rice is a winner, too. Watch the masters at work from a five-seat bar. 13776 Jamboree Road, Irvine, 714-786-8999. $$

PORCH & SWING

BEST NEW RESTAURANT 2021

This delightful new indie serves a “taste of Charleston” starring original riffs on American classics by chef

Justin Werner and cocktails by Andrew Parish. Musttry dishes include roasted pork jowl over grits, amazing creamless creamed corn, and gorgeous salads. House-baked breads are a strength, too. The patio is lovely. 2010 Main St., 949-418-7988. $$

PUESTO

San Diego’s high-profile taqueria has two Irvine options for O.C. fans. Delectable tacos are the main event, elevated by crispy griddled Oaxacan cheese, and tortillas made by hand from organic, non-GMO, blue corn masa. The cheese is especially brilliant on vegetarian tacos. Always ask about the monthly taco special. The Park Place center location’s indoor-meets-outdoor venue is intimate and color-splashed. Park Place, 3311 Michelson

Drive, 949-608-7272; Los Olivos Marketplace, 8577

Irvine Center Drive, 949-608-9990. $$

SESSIONS

No. 3 is a charm for O.C.’s indie chainlet of “West

Coast” delis. Expect terrific sandwiches that eat like a meal for two, gourmet creations that are meticulous stacks of top ingredients with exacting ratios, so every ’wich is scrumptious to the last bite. Fromscratch soups, sides, and dressings. A beguiling lakeside setting beckons for lazy breakfasts featuring

Kéan coffee and house-made granola. 4736 Barranca Parkway, 949-333-3949. Beer and wine. See

Huntington Beach and Newport Beach locations.

Fourth location (not reviewed) in Newport Beach at 101 Newport Center Drive. $

SAM WOO RESTAURANT

Many don’t know this reasonably priced, no-frills place is not named after someone called Sam Woo— the term actually refers to the Chinese notion of harmony. Yanked-from-the-tank seafood is a specialty, as are dim sum and Hong Kong noodle dishes. Service is reliably speedy and brusque. For faster carry-out meals, try the express buffet next door. 15333 Culver Drive, 949-262-0688. Beer and wine. $

TACO ROSA

With agave-sweetened margaritas, daily aguas frescas, and house-made churros, these flagships of the

Taco Mesa chain take fresh Mex to the max. Try the

Oaxacan enchiladas. 13792 Jamboree Road, 714-5056080. See Newport Beach location. $$

LAGUNA BEACH

ALESSÁ BY CHEF PIROZZI

This village center magnet for robust Italian fare by chef-owner Alessandro Pirozzi boasts a bar featuring primo versions of burrata, scamorza, and other cheese delights, as well as elite cured meats from Italy and up-and-coming domestic producers, all hand-sliced to order. 234 Forest Ave., 949497-8222. $$

BROADWAY BY AMAR SANTANA

Boy wonder chef Amar Santana and industry vet Ahmed Labbate decamped

Charlie Palmer to create this sexy urban bistro. Fans old and new keep the tight quarters humming to the backdrop of an open kitchen and vintage flicks playing on the flat-screen over the expansive bar.

Santana’s dishes are opulent and intense. The wine list includes many notable half-bottles. 328

Glenneyre St., 949-715-8234. $$$

BRUSSELS BISTRO

Loud and lively, this bistro brings a bit of Belgium to

Orange County, with traditional beers on tap and an authentic menu. Stick with the tasty burger on rustic bread, or the mussels, served with the requisite frites. 222 Forest Ave., 949-376-7955. $$

THE DRAKE

The grown-ups sipping cocktails are here for a full serving of primo live music paired with the cuisine of Paul Gstrein (ex of

Bistango and Bayside). Laguna’s own Alec Glasser prevails in creating a dashing joint where both the musicians and the kitchen have serious chops. Diners dig into Euro-inflected dishes (try the lamb lol-

lipops, the Alpine Melt, the chile-lime swordfish).

Musicians dig the highbrow sound system, and the room generates a superlative groove. 2894 S. Coast

Highway, 949-376-1000. $$$

DRIFTWOOD KITCHEN

With its gorgeous seaside panorama, this place perfectly illustrates the food-versus-view gamble.

Prudent choices on chef Rainer Schwarz’s seasonal menu include whole fried fish, an unusual entree pairing of butcher steak-pork belly, and tarts by pastry chef Rene Baez. Brunch items and craft drinks also are good bets. 619 Sleepy Hollow Lane, 949715-7700. $$

NICK’S

Perched on Laguna’s prime stretch of Coast Highway, this inviting, urbane bar and grill lures grown-ups who prefer to skip the surfer grub scene in favor of tasty cocktails and a compact all-day menu of comfort classics with modern twists. Ace bets include the steakhouse salad and blackened halibut sandwich. Softly lit and cushily appointed, the openair space boasts a sidewalk patio. Sociable service is notably polished. 440 S. Coast Highway, 949-3768595. See San Clemente location. $$

OLIVER’S OSTERIA

Wedged into an oddball canyon retail center, this tidy shop is chef-owner Erik De Marchi’s all-out defense of faithful fare inspired by his home turf of Italy’s Emilia-Romana region. Pastas are wondrous, but do wait to hear the daily specials that can include juicy lamb chops or crepes (crespelle) with porcini mushrooms in truffle-perfumed béchamel. Tight quarters make dining noisy when the room is full. And Oliver? He’s De Marchi’s first child, born on opening day. 853 Laguna Canyon

Road, 949-715-0261. $$$

SAPPHIRE CELLAR CRAFT COOK

The latest incarnation of Laguna Beach’s historic Coast Highway venue is much better than it has to be, given its bulletproof location.

Upmarket, innovative American cuisine by executive chef Jared Cook includes irresistible weekend brunch waffles and Benedicts, classy lunch salads, and dinners that star fresh oysters and a splendid ribeye. On-site pantry for beach eats. 1200 South

Coast Highway, 949-715-9888. $$$

SELANNE STEAK TAVERN

Anaheim Ducks star Teemu Selanne cements his brand with this polished and popular steak joint on a venerated stretch of Coast Highway.

Prime, pricey beef rules the day on executive chef

Vince Terusa’s menu designed for a pro athlete’s appetite and fan base. We like the main floor’s easy, breezy tavern for terrific cocktails, the superlative burger, and world-class people-watching. 1464 S.

Coast Highway, 949-715-9881. Dinner only. $$$

SPLASHES RESTAURANT

Easily one of our coast’s top resort options for a surf’s-edge indulgence, this contemporary dining room and lounge are famed for pricey romantic meals and sunset drinks. Ron Fougeray is executive chef. A stunning Pacific view dazzles, as does

Fougeray’s five-star resume that includes a James

Beard nomination. Surf & Sand Resort, 1555 S. Coast

Highway, 888-281-3502. $$$

230 FOREST AVENUE

Lagunatics and sightseers mingle at this lively openair cafe, where the martinis are as popular as the modern California cuisine. Noisy, cramped quarters are overlooked once the waiter brings your day boat Heirloom beet salad at Fable & Spirit

scallops. Primo people-watching from the tables fronting one of the village’s busiest sidewalks. 230 Forest Ave., 949-494-2545. $$$

LAGUNA HILLS

BREAK OF DAWN

Fine-dining chef Dee Nguyen never looked back when he escaped five-star kitchens to create this daytime diner serving wildly creative comfort fare with Asian inflections. Whether sweet—French toast crème brûlée with Mexican chocolate—or savory—

Hawaiian sausage with fried eggs, scallions, green papaya, and rice—the result is spellbinding. 24291

Avenida De La Carlota, 949-587-9418. $$

IRONWOOD

The savvy team behind Vine in San Clemente notches another hit with this welcoming dinner house in a zone with scant options. Executive chef Jared Cook’s modern, seasonal menu roams from delicate to hearty, but all dishes showcase his knack for upping the crave factor. Examples: chicken schnitzel with mushrooms, Zinfandelbraised lamb shank with mint yogurt. Terrific craft cocktails shift with the seasons. On-point service from a gracious crew. 25250 La Paz Road, 949-4468772. Dinner only. $$$

MISSION VIEJO

DUBLIN 4 GASTROPUB

Publicans Darren and Jean Coyle welcome a varied crowd to this chipper modern pub, designed to rival Dublin’s finest. Executive chef

David Shofner applies fine-dining cred and scratch cooking to a menu of new and old-school fare that sparkles. Don’t-miss items include premium cottage pies, a killer lamb burger, and anything with house-cured meats. Upscale pricing and dapper surroundings prove this is not your frat brother’s

Irish pub. 26342 Oso Parkway, 949-582-0026. $$$

WINEWORKS FOR EVERYONE

This near-hidden pocket bistro is a top choice for wine-centric cuisine in South County. A retooled menu by chef David Shofner, who also helms the kitchen at Dublin 4 next door, brims with seasonal

California fare that flatters a wine list of West Coast and international bottles. Must-haves include sausage flatbread, and a killer cheese plate. 26342 Oso

Parkway, 949-582-0026. Beer and wine. $$$

NEWPORT BEACH

A&O KITCHEN + BAR

A serious reboot of this fabled lounge—formerly

Duke’s—transforms this waterside venue into a gas-

tropub with a newly youthful vibe. Expect all the usual share plates: battered fries, shishito peppers, bacon-wrapped dates, plus several hearty plates including a worthy Kobe burger with bacon mayo on a cheddar-bacon bun. Bold, neonautical decor plays off the “anchors and oceans” theme and brings the bay view to life. The water’s-edge patio is inviting for sunset drinks or gathering ’round the fire pit. Balboa

Bay Resort, 1221 W. Coast Highway, 949-630-4285. $$

BAYSIDE

Classy Bayside remains a go-to choice on many fronts. Nightly happy hour stars a winning small-plates menu that keeps the bar hopping.

Rotating artwork keeps the dining room ever fresh for relaxed meals of debonair American fare. Long favored by the coastal set for jazzy brunches, insiders stop in on Friday nights for a legendary jam session in the bar. Prix fixe menus are a strength here. 900 Bayside Drive, 949-721-1222. $$$

BELLO BY SANDRO NARDONE

Previously of upmarket pizzeria Angelina’s, Sandro

Nardone flies solo with this molto moderno Italiano overhaul of a sprawling spot. Nardone’s style is urbane, so expect no lasagna here. Instead, look for distinctive creations such as mortadella mousse canoli with liquid pineapple mustard. Crispy octopus with Calabrian vinaigrette is another crowd favorite.

Cocktails show imagination, and the wine list has some rare gems. Coming soon, Nardone’s take on hip patio brunching. 1200 Bison Ave., 949-520-7191. $$$

THE CANNERY

The 1921 landmark structure has dazzled diners for more than 50 years with its waterfront site, pristine seafood, and top chops. Executive chef Marcus Hagan keeps the menu relevant by adding new dishes, say baked Peruvian scallops, to classics such as the trusted lobster roll. Also check out The Snug, a cozy bar downstairs, carved from the main dining room. Dockside dining offered for boaters. 3010

Lafayette Road, 949-566-0060. $$$

CUCINA ENOTECA

Chef de cuisine Cesar Sarmiento helms the busy scratch kitchen of this Fashion Island sibling. The sprawling, lively space with its alluring garden room, hip cocktails, and fun wines supports inventive takes on classic pastas, cured meats, and creative breads.

Like the Irvine location, this venue offers a retail wine boutique and lots of quirky-chic furnishings for sale. Daily happy hour is a deal for tony Fashion

Island. 951 Newport Center Drive, 949-706-1416. See

Irvine location. $$ EDDIE V’S WILDFISH

Wildfish lures a loyal following. The finely calibrated menu of pristine seafood and first-class steaks keeps the glossy room and fireplace patio hopping, especially for nightly happy hour deals when upscale locals crowd the sleek bar. Urbane service.

Strong wine list. 1370 Bison Ave., 949-720-9925. $$$

FABLE & SPIRIT

BEST NEW RESTAURANT 2020

From the family behind Dublin 4 comes this lush addition to the area across from Lido Marina Village. But don’t assume this is an Irish pub that mimics the other. This plush room features inventive fare that’s a mashup of American and Irish. Here you start with Hares Looking at You, a cocktail starring Wheatley vodka and carrot juice, move on to the refined beet agnolotti with chèvre foam, or share a woodfired duck confit pizetta. Yes, the fish and chips are

superior, but so is the rabbit fricassee. 3441 Via Lido, 949-409-9913. $$$

FLEMING’S PRIME STEAKHOUSE & WINE BAR

This flagship location’s makeover includes a renovated bar, a much larger patio, and the debut of lunch service. Dry-aged steaks star at this red meat specialist, supported by a luxe array of seafood starters. New a la carte lunch options include a filet mignon wedge salad. The sensational happy hour is one of Fashion Island’s most popular. Another house signature: an all-star wine list with more than 100 choices by the glass. 455 Newport Center

Drive, 949-720-9633. $$$

LIDO BOTTLE WORKS

This handsome waterfront venue sounds like a liquor store, but it’s a sleeper of a full-service restaurant hiding in the swanky Lido Marina Village development. Hyper-seasonal and prettily plated, notable creations include Dory Fleet catches of the day, opulent Iberico secreto pork, a solid burger, and one glorious chocolate mousse. 3408 Via Oporto, 949-529-2784. $$

OLEA CELLAR CRAFT COOK

Eastside’s dapper dinner house is the latest offering from the polished crew behind sister restaurants Ironwood and Vine, a homegrown hospitality group. Fans of chef Jared Cook will recognize some familiar dishes from his sibling shops, but there are exclusives here, too. We’re mad for the opulent duck liver terrine with bacon and bourbon, and those fine oysters baked with blue crab in tarragon butter. Add top-notch cocktails and 50 notable wines by the glass. 2001 Westcliff Drive,

Newport Beach, 949-287-6807. Dinner nightly. $$$

PESCADOU BISTRO

After three decades at its vintage location, this vestpocket bistro owned by Jacques and Olga de Quillien is as cozy and classically French as ever. The blackboard $40 prix fixe rules supreme, but you can also indulge in classics that would thrill Julia

Child: braised rabbit, duck confit with frites, and luscious ratatouille. Seasoned servers keep the regulars content, so it’s no wonder that diners quietly keep this gem their secret. 3325 Newport Blvd., 949-6756990. Dinner only. $$

SESSIONS

This busy “West Coast deli” on the peninsula crafts terrific sandwiches that eat like a meal for two. Gourmet creations with kooky names are meticulous stacks of top ingredients with exacting ratios, so every ’wich is scrumptious to the last bite.

A surfer vibe extends to hearty breakfasts at 7 a.m. daily, starring Golden State Coffee Roaster coffee. 2823 Newport Blvd., 949-220-9001. Beer and wine.

See Huntington Beach and Irvine locations. Fourth location (not reviewed) in Newport Beach at 101

Newport Center Drive. $

SHOREBIRD

Hidden inside the Vue Newport enclave, Shorebird is invisible until you enter the airy split-level space dominated by its waterfront view.

Expect contemporary American fare plus familiar side detours for sushi and tacos. Best bets include

Duroc pork chop, lump crab cakes, avocado fries. 2220 Newport Blvd., 949-287-6627. $$$

SUSHI ROKU

The sixth location of this Cal-Japanese concept makes a huge impression with striking decor and vibrant cuisine. If the dining room’s bus-

ier than the sushi bar, blame the thoughtfully designed and executed menu, notably dishes such as fluke kumquat sashimi, blue crab tartare, Prime ribeye Japonais, and the deconstructed s’mores. The creative sushi deserves a night all its own, and the bar and patio offer their own vibes. Look for scores of noodles, salads, and bento boxes at lunch, and sakes. 327 Newport Center Drive, 949-706-3622. $$$

TACO ROSA

With agave-sweetened margaritas and house-made churros, these flagships of the Taco Mesa chain take fresh Mex to the max. 2632 San Miguel Road, 949720-0980. See Irvine location. $$

THE WINERY RESTAURANT & WINE BAR

The snazzy venue overlooks the yacht and Duffy boat traffic in Newport Harbor, flaunting its waterfront charms with 180-degree views from two floors plus a cigar patio. The space sizzles with bonhomie— and diners who love their surf, turf, wine, and VIP treatment. Expect cosseting service from partners JC

Clow, William Lewis, and executive chef Yvon Goetz.

Best bets include Goetz’s signature Alsatian “pizza” and the Colorado buffalo carpaccio. 3131 W. Coast

Highway, 949-999-6622. See Tustin location. $$$

NEWPORT COAST

THE BEACHCOMBER

The surf’s-edge view might be better than the food, but the drinks and eats are good enough to keep this iconic spot packed with beachgoers, especially in summer. Stick with basics such as grilled artichokes, lobster club, and stuffed salmon. Executive chef

Carlos Olivera oversees the breakfast, lunch, and dinner menus that change slightly each season. 15

Crystal Cove, 949-376-6900. $$$

BLUEFIN

Adroit chef Takashi Abe applies his considerable talents to pristine ingredients he fashions into gorgeous works of edible Japanese art. His omakase is transcendent (and cheaper at lunch). The setting is suitably spare and visually soothing. Superior sake selection. 7952 E. Pacific Coast Highway, 949-7157373. $$$

MARCHÉ MODERNE

BEST NEW RESTAURANT 2018

The finest French bistro south of Beverly Hills is reborn in coastal digs that express a fresh chapter for the redoubtable Florent and Amelia Marneau. Added space and oversize windows let the outdoors into a room that oozes grace and sophistication. Beloved dishes such as Spanish octopus with chorizo return to the dinner menu alongside new creations from the open kitchen—think crispy suckling pigs and beans, a three-day cassoulet. Amelia’s new desserts include ravishing Napoleons served weekends only. 7862 E. Pacific Coast Highway, 714-434-7900. $$$

WASA SUSHI

James Hamamori cemented his stardom at this striking shopping-center spot brimming with devotees of modern spins on sushi. Renowned for such fare as salmon with ginger sauce and fresh orange. Exceptional selection of salads, appetizers, and entrees as well. 1344 Bison Ave., 949-760-1511.

Beer and wine. $$

ZOV’S NEWPORT COAST

This attractive shopping center offshoot of the popular original Zov’s in Tustin is a go-to patio cafe that lures locals with creative Cal-Med dishes

such as Moroccan salmon salad, spiced lamb burger, and pomegranate baby back ribs. Desserts are a standout, as are cocktails and chic mezze starters. 21123 Newport Coast Drive, 949-760-9687. See Tustin location. $$$

ORANGE

GABBI’S MEXICAN KITCHEN

Gabbi Patrick grew up working in her family’s

Mexican restaurants, then studied at the Greystone

Culinary Academy in Napa. The menu reveals her formal training as it embraces her family’s background. With items such as gorditas al pastor (masa cakes with Kurobuta pork belly and a pineapple-onion relish), Patrick’s plates celebrate simple, honest flavors. 141 S. Glassell St., 714-6333038. $$

HAVEN CRAFT KITCHEN + BAR

A serious contender in the gastropub category, this popular storefront in Old Towne lures a mixed crowd of brew fanatics and foodies, thanks to a rich roster of esoteric suds and polished pub grub from chef Craig Brady. Dishes such as a braised lamb pappardelle and coriander roasted baby carrots.

Lunch and early dinner are options for bypassing the deafening din that rises with the crowd. 190 S.

Glassell St., 714-221-0680. $$

RANCHO SANTA MARGARITA

THE BLIND PIG KITCHEN & BAR

Lakeside seats, terrific craft cocktails, and daring fare by young chef Karl Pfleider earn local love for this rare gastro-canteen in Rancho

Santa Margarita. Midweek tapas start at 3 p.m. with goodies such as steak tartare with pistachio XO sauce. But wait until 5 p.m. for the mahi-mahi with paprika mole. 31431 Santa Margarita Parkway, 949888-0072. Second location (not reviewed) in Yorba

Linda, 4975 Lakeview Ave., 714-485-2593. $$

SAN CLEMENTE

BRICK

The menu of authentic, seasonal cuisine says Italy, but the unfussy setting and beach-casual regulars make for a solid California vibe at this trattoria by chef-owner David Pratt. Thin-crust pizzas from the wood-fired Valoriani oven are composed with care, but don’t miss the house-made pastas and seasonal salads. Amazing meatballs, too. 216 N. El Camino

Real, 949-429-1199. $$

MRK PUBLIC

Three chefs, two of them former co-chefs at Tabu

Grill in Laguna Beach, transform a fast-casual fixture into a winning spot that offers craft beers, all $5, and a tightly edited menu of elevated favorites, notably

Tuscan toast, and a terrific fried chicken sandwich.

The rear counter offers a distant ocean view. 1402

S. El Camino Real, 949-441-7621. Beer and wine. $

NICK’S

On a prime stretch of vintage Avenida del Mar, this inviting bar and grill is just urbane enough to lure grown-ups who prefer to skip the surfer grub scene in favor of crackerjack cocktails and a compact allday menu of comfort classics with a modern twist.

Ace bets include the steakhouse salad and blackened fish sandwich. And there’s a sidewalk patio Osso buco at Mayfield

with fireplace. Sociable service is notably polished. 213 Avenida del Mar, 949-481-2200. See Laguna

Beach location. $$

VINE

A decor revamp of the cozy dining room and a menu overhaul add up to impressive new heights, because owner Russ Bendel Jr. wisely gives sauce monster and executive chef Jared Cook full reign over the kitchen. Look for killer duck wings and nightly specials that tend to sell out. A garden out back only sweetens this gem. 211 N. El Camino Real, 949-3612079. Dinner only. $$$

SAN JUAN CAPISTRANO

MAYFIELD

Modern, hyper-seasonal California fare meets the timeless food ways of the Middle

East at this ingenious newcomer. Breezy two-story digs include a pretty quartz bar for leading-edge cocktails. Do try fried eggplant, lamb meatballs, and shareable dips. By day, look for indulgent brunch dishes. 31761 Camino Capistrano, 949-218-5140. $$$

PUBLIC 74

This county-line gastropub radiates a welcoming vibe that attracts customers of all types to its fauxramshackle chic, second-story venue. Craft brews, booze, and decidedly eclectic eats change often, as executive chef Gerry Kent keeps the smallish menu seasonal. Definitely consider the two-handed

Reuben, and there’s a seasonal monster burger. 27211

Ortega Highway, 949-481-2723. $$

RAMOS HOUSE CAFÉ

A sweet adobe hiding in the historic Los Rios district,

Ramos House Café turns out some of South County’s most delectable daytime fare. Contemporary and clever American breakfasts and lunches (brunch on weekends) have a distinct Southern accent that fits the rustic, alfresco setting with passing trains as soundtrack. Look for ethereal biscuits and crab hash. And don’t miss the killer bloody mary. 31752

Los Rios St., 949-443-1342. $$

SANTA ANA [ SEE ALSO SOUTH COAST METRO ] BENCHMARK

Quirky but capable, this Santa Ana newcomer goes all-in for alfresco, luring diners with a tree-shaded setting on a vintage residential street. The modest menu of American bistro dishes is just big enough to have wide appeal. Happy hour and weekend brunch have a backyard party vibe. Dinner surprises with upmarket dishes, say a lovely bavette steak atop celery root purée. 601 E. Santa Ana Blvd., 714480-0225. $$

CHATO’S BAR AND GRILL

This intrepid Mexican canteen offers less familiar dishes—corundas, roast quail—alongside comfort favorites such as ceviche and chilaquiles. Michoacán

native Sergio Ortega previously of Descanso, is executive chef. Inaugural meals include dinner nightly and Sunday brunch. Commendable drinks. 400 N. Broadway, 714-852-3256. $$

EL MERCADO MODERN CUISINE

Deceptively bare bones, the menu offers about 20 dishes, each showcasing a regional recipe from

Mexico’s distinctive territories. Don’t miss a sublime aguachile verde. Also impressive: crisp tacos ahogado in hot broth. We loved the guajillo salsa-soaked bread in the open-face pork pambazo at brunch.

Inventive cocktails lean on mezcal and house-made bitters. The vintage site with soaring ceilings seats 115 and boasts modern artwork. Expect kind, unflappable service. 301 N. Spurgeon St., 714-338-2446. $$

MIX MIX KITCHEN BAR

BEST NEW RESTAURANT 2017

DTSA got a major dining upgrade with this winner from chef-owner Ross Pangilinan. A veteran of highend dining, his major culinary chops rule the day but not the tab at his breakout venue with zero pretension and multicourse meals packed with finesse. Think prosciutto toast with quince honey, and seared foie gras with al pastor spices and charred pineapple. Spiffy craft cocktails, too. 300 N. Main St., 714-836-5158. Dinner only. $$$

SOUTH COAST METRO

ANQI

Tight focus on the fare makes dining at this South Coast Plaza hot spot better than ever.

Executive chef Ron Lee makes delicious harmony with matriarch master chef Helene An’s spicy beef tacos and roasted New Zealand lamb rack, as well as her fabled roast crab (Tuesday only). Zen chic decor turns heads. Drinks at the dramatic bar dazzle the cocktail crowd, but try Sunday brunch for a more kickback experience, or snag a padded stool at the adjacent noodle bar. 3333 Bristol St., 714-557-5679. $$$

ANTONELLO RISTORANTE

For more than three decades South Coast Plaza’s

Italian grand diva has reigned for ultrafine feasting on authentic, traditional dishes backed by a savvy wine selection deep with Italian stars. House-made pastas, breads, and desserts. The restaurant’s aura of privilege is underscored by pampering service for VIPs. A full-service wine bar is the latest update. 3800 South Plaza Drive, 714-751-7153. $$$

THE HALL GLOBAL EATERY

The Hall’s 10,000-square-feet is a wonderland of casual offerings, but do search out the seasonal poke creations from Amar Santana. They explode with worldly flavors best enjoyed on the tranquil patio lounge with sophisticated cocktails by bar star

Michael Rooney. Inside The Hall, graze on shawarmas, sandwiches, salads, and superb pastries and coffees from the patisserie. 3333 Bristol St., 714-515-5544. $$

DIN TAI FUNG

Fans happily endure long waits to satisfy their craving for xiao long bao, juicy pork dumplings, handpleated with care. Bowls of noodles, rice, and stacks of bamboo steamers crowd tables as diners blend their own aromatic dipping sauce from rich soy, black vinegar, and shreds of fresh ginger. 3333 Bristol St., 714-549-3388. $$

HAMAMORI

Sushi master artist James Hamamori applies persuasive talent to this South Coast Plaza penthouse dazzler of a sushi bar. Son Jim is now behind the bar, too, but this heavenly venue also shows off non-sushi dishes such as uni floating in edamame puree, Kobe rissole, and miso-marinated lamb chops. Omakase is truly top-notch. 3333 Bear St., 714-850-0880. $$$

KNIFE PLEAT

Knife Pleat replaces Marché Moderne in the penthouse of South Coast Plaza. The radically transformed 80-seat setting is a clear signal that this French arrival is wholly apart from its predecessor. Chef Tony Esnault and partner Yassmin

Sarmadi are new to O.C. though acclaimed in Los

Angeles, and in the case of Esnault, covered in

Michelin star dust after years with mentor Alain

Ducasse. Esnault is a disciple of the seasons; his style is light, graceful, and precise as revealed by escargot ravioli in broth, his famous legumes de saison, or the ultrarefined cassoulet. Don’t skip

Germain Biotteau’s indulgent desserts. 3333 Bristol

St., 714-266-3388. $$$

RITTER’S STEAM KETTLE COOKING

Chef-partner Mike Ritter and crew create Cajun-

Creole magic in 12 steam-heated steel caldrons that cook seductive versions of gumbo, chowder, and the legendary pan poast—a heady concoction of various shellfish bubbling in a rich sauce of cream, tomato, and secret spices, topped with a dome of perfect jasmine rice—that’s by far the best-selling dish.

And don’t miss the mean po’ boy sandwich. 1421

W. MacArthur Blvd., 714-850-1380. Beer and wine. $$

ROYAL KHYBER

Arun Puri, the creator behind Orange County’s first

Indian restaurant, is still buying the spices and manning the tandoor oven in the skilled kitchen at this upscale choice for first-rate renditions of classics such as butter chicken, tikka masala, and the signature Khyber’s Nectar, a dish of slow-cooked lamb shanks said to be an aphrodisiac. 1621 W. Sunflower

Ave., 714-436-1010. $$ TERRACE BY MIX MIX

Canny chef-owner Ross Pangilinan leverages the success of his original Mix Mix Kitchen Bar in downtown Santa Ana with this minimalist aerie overlooking the stylish Bridge of Gardens skywalk at South

Coast Plaza. This venue lacks a full bar, but it has wine and beer and is open daily with ample free parking. Fans love the three-course lunch for $20, but weekend brunch with its mimosa cart beguiles, and dinner offers the best prix fixe in the center.

Don’t-miss dishes include Asian ribs, hamachi crudo, and pork cheek adobo. 3333 Bear St., 657-231-6447. $$

VACA

Top chef Amar Santana and ace partner Ahmed

Labbate return to Costa Mesa with an exuberant, singular ode to Spain. Santana sidesteps the “eat local” crusade, offering peerless jamon Iberico, lush bomba rice for paellas, and verdant Mahon gin for cocktails. Dozens of authentic tapas beg to be tried, but do consider excellent wood-grilled steaks, dryaged in-house. Dinner tables at prime times are scarce, so plan, wait, or aim for lunch. 695 Town

Center Drive, 714-463-6060. $$$

TUSTIN

CENTRO STORICO

Old Town Tustin’s new kid on the old block transforms a vintage building into a spaghetteria and bar, plus a back pocket cafe. Artisan, fresh daily pasta is the latest effort from the Pozzuoli family behind

Centro, the excellent micro pizzeria next door. Signature dishes include Capperi e Olive (casarecca),

Aglione (bucatini), and grilled porterhouse for two. 405 El Camino Real., 714-258-8817. $$

CHAAK

Gabbi and Ed Patrick of Gabbi’s Kitchen chose Old Town to show off the county’s most sophisticated take on the regional fare of

Mexico’s wondrous Yucatán Peninsula, naming their new location after the Mayan rain god. The dazzling space features a retractable roof and sliding Roman shades to lovely effect. Must-have dishes include sikil pec, a roasted pumpkin seed dip, as well as cochinita pibil and carne cruda. A 16-seat bar invites lingering over elaborate cocktails or a glass from an uncommonly diverse wine list. 215 El Camino

Real, 657-699-3019. $$$

THE WINERY RESTAURANT & WINE BAR

The O.C. power crowd doesn’t care that this isn’t a winery, but a huge, handsome restaurant that attracts disciples of steak, wine, and cigars. They’re exactly the folks you’d expect would follow partners JC Clow and William Lewis from their previous gig at Morton’s, with executive chef Yvon Goetz in tow. Best bets include Goetz’s signature Alsatian “pizza” and the Colorado buffalo carpaccio. If the 7,500-bottle wine cellar isn’t enough, you can always purchase a private wine locker. 2647 Park

Ave., 714-258-7600. See Newport Beach location. $$$

THE YELLOW CHILLI

The Yellow Chilli is another franchise by Sanjeev

Kapoor, India’s mega-celebrity chef. Bigger than

Wolfgang or Martha. The massive menu proves the master chef isn’t stingy with recipes, not after writing more than 150 cookbooks. Knowledgeable servers help navigate the options. Don’t miss

Sham Savera, one of Kapoor’s most famous creations: open-face spinach dumplings filled with fresh white paneer that float in silky tomato gravy spiked with garlic, cardamom, and mace. 2463 Park

Ave., 714-389-5280. $$

ZOV’S TUSTIN BISTRO

Fans love Zov Karamardian’s modern, creative way with Mediterranean flavors. Zov keeps her flagship venue fresh and stylish. Expect

Cal-Med dishes such as Moroccan salmon salad, spiced lamb burger, and pomegranate baby back ribs. Desserts are a standout, as are cocktails and chic mezze starters. The patio cafe out back stays busy at lunch and weekend breakfast. 17440 E. 17th St., 714-838-8855. See Newport Coast location. $$$

DINING NEWS

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