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DINING GUIDE Some of our 200-plus restaurant reviews
NOTE FROM THE EDITOR
AS OF PRESS TIME IN EARLY MAY, RESTAURANTS WERE ALLOWED TO SERVE DINERS IN LIMITED CAPACITY. RULES CHANGE OFTEN: PLEASE USE THIS GUIDE AS A STARTING POINT, THEN CALL THE RESTAURANT TO LEARN ABOUT RESTRICTIONS AND RESERVATIONS. DESCRIPTIONS HERE ARE MOSTLY BASED ON DINING BEFORE SOCIAL DISTANCING.
JUN E 2021
DINING GUIDE
ORANGE COUNTY’S DEFINITIVE SOURCE FOR RESTAURANT NEWS & MINIREVIEWS
PRICING $$$ $50 and up $$ Less than $50 $ Mostly less than $25
Denotes Critic’s Choice restaurant
ANAHEIM
NAPA ROSE
Wine country thrives at the Disneyland Resort by way of this classy dinner house— no park admission required. Star chef Andrew
Sutton leads his crew in an exhibition kitchen, turning out imaginative, highly seasonal New American fare. The room mixes rustic with refined, and the notably wine-savvy waitstaff, many qualified as sommeliers, deftly tailors unforgettable meals around wines from one of the region’s finest cellars. Disney’s Grand Californian Hotel & Spa, 1313
Disneyland Drive, 714-300-7170. $$$
THE RANCH RESTAURANT & SALOON
Oozing top-notch ambition, The Ranch packs some big guns—executive chef Michael
Rossi and his brother David, pastry chef. The large venue also includes an upscale saloon and dance hall, sited in the six-story headquarters of Extron
Electronics. The whopping (mostly) seasonal American fare is a mashup of down-home and uptown. 1025 E. Ball Road, 714-817-4200. $$$
TRUE SEASONS ORGANIC KITCHEN
This sleek storefront by Saifon Plewtong now adds wraps, bowls, smoothies, and desserts to a menu that once focused solely on hot pots. Still, the spotlight is on organic, GMO-free local produce and all-natural proteins. Do try the fresh-pressed sugar cane juice for a refresher like no other in these parts. 5675 E. La Palma Ave., 714-462-9223.
Beer and wine. $$
URBANA
This colorful latecomer to the Anaheim Packing
House brings vibrancy and a cool cantina attitude to a food hall that really needed a good taco and mezcal cocktail. Executive chef Ernie Alvarado’s short menu of savvy street food changes often, and you can’t go wrong with his daily specials. Cozy surroundings offer a choice of ambience—festive or sultry. 440 S. Anaheim Blvd., 714-502-0255. $$
ANAHEIM HILLS
REUNION KITCHEN + DRINK
Popular with the locals, this dapper haunt oozes bonhomie thanks to a solid team led by industry vet
Scott McIntosh, whose feel-good American classics are consistently executed by a tight kitchen. Service is sharp. Look for a homey meatloaf, laudable fried chicken with yummy mashers and fresh biscuits, and house-made desserts. Modern cocktails and a roomy patio increase the pleasure factor. 5775
E. Santa Ana Canyon Road, 714-283-1062. Second location (not yet reviewed) in Laguna Beach. $$
BREA
MACALLANS PUBLIC HOUSE
Chef Andrew Wang’s modern but comforting pub cooking is just one upgrade that’s helping this young venue finally catch on in North County. Topnotch whiskey offerings and a killer Irish breakfast on weekends also entice. Don’t miss the ridiculously authentic Irish coffee, or stop in for the very robust happy hour. The upscale vibe is a welcome switch from the usual timeworn pub conditions. 330 W.
Birch St., 714-529-1224. $$
OLD BREA CHOP HOUSE
Finally, North County’s fine diners can skip the trek south to splurge on old-school steakhouse dinners. Longtime Morton’s veteran Tony
Fasulo breaks away, polishing the classy formula to a high sheen. Expect deluxe beef, say a Tomahawk chop or a strapping Delmonico, boosted with firstclass seafood, precise cocktails, and cosseting service.
Marinated skirt steak is the sleeper call. Cozy yet utterly contemporary, the venue includes a 25-seat bar with charcuterie platters and an alluring happy hour. 180 S. Brea Blvd., 714-592-3122. Dinner only. $$$
TAPS FISH HOUSE & BREWERY
Taps continues to be O.C.’s landmark pick for dining on a wide range of appealing seafood, pasta, steaks, and spunky New Orleans specialties that go down well with award-winning ales and lagers that change often. Happy hour is a big draw for valueseekers. Sunday brunch is a popular feast. 101 E.
Imperial Highway, 714-257-0101. $$
CORONA DEL MAR
CAFÉ JARDIN
NEW Plein-air lunching is better than ever inside this spectacular walled garden where the inimitable Pascal Olhats serves unfussy
French bistro fare informed by the seasons and site-grown herbs and greens. High points include trout almondine, grilled octopus, and lamb salad.
Sherman Library & Gardens, 2647 E. Coast Highway, 949-673-0033. $5 admission, free parking. Closed
Monday and Tuesday. $$$
FARMHOUSE AT ROGER’S GARDENS
This beguiling patio is chef-owner Rich Mead’s fourth and busiest enterprise yet, an inspired collaboration between a farmer’s dream chef and O.C.’s iconic outdoor lifestyle retailer. The restaurantgazebo seats 120 with rustic style, making this the fresh favorite for dates and celebrations. Mead’s seasonal menu shifts often to reflect his passion for local family farms and ranches. Craft cocktails have a farmers market tilt, and a nascent cheese program rounds out the ever-changing feast. 2301
San Joaquin Hills Road, 949-640-1415. $$$
SIDEDOOR
Nested within the landmark Lawry’s Five Crowns, this gastropub welcomes come-asyou-are diners with a changing daily menu of imaginative small plates, seasonal soups, prime rib sandwiches, potpies, and desserts. Don’t miss the charcuterie station with choice cured meats and artisanal cheeses. Always interesting wines by the
OUR CRITERIA
Restaurants are reviewed by our dining critics and staff and have no relationship to advertising in Orange Coast. Listings are updated regularly. We do not accept free meals; visits are anonymous. Price classifications are based on a typical three‑course dinner (appetizer, entree, dessert) for one person. Alan Gibbons edits this listing. You can reach her at agibbons@orangecoast.com.
High tea sweets at Café Jardin
glass, craft beers, and signature cocktails boost the inviting room’s jolly British vibe. 3801 E. Coast Highway, 949-717-4322. $$
COSTA MESA [ SEE ALSO SOUTH COAST METRO ] 2145
Santa Ana native and Pizzeria Ortica veteran Eduardo Salcedo brings an artisan mindset and Japanese aesthetic to this Neapolitan-style pizza joint in a cleverly repurposed auto shop. Aromas of almond-wood fire whet the appetite for his finely crafted pies and imaginative toasts on house-baked shokupan, Japan’s beloved breakfast loaf. Sit at the white marble bar or under umbrellas on the patio to enjoy bresaola and burrata salad with pickled fennel, or hyper-tender octopus with diced potato, charred scallions, and squid ink mayo. Star dessert: horchata tiramisu. 2145 Placentia Ave., 949-873-5853.
Beer and wine. $$
DESCANSO
Descanso’s novel twist is the elevation of the taquero to center stage. Inspired by the dynamic street foods of Mexico City, owner Rob Arellano seats diners right at the plancha grill to watch their tacos sizzled with pizazz. Happy hour is particularly tempting if you can scoot in midweek, from 3 to 6 p.m. 1555 Adams Ave., 714-486-3798. $$
HABANA
Flickering candles light the way through a highceilinged dining room, convivial bar, and lush patio at The Lab’s enduring Cuban hang for date nights and late nights. Most of the fare sticks solidly to classics, such as roast chicken and ropa vieja, but the appetizer side is loaded with winners. Updates include a lavish, all-you-can-eat brunch with live island music and an array of delicious baked goodies.
Intimate confines make reservations a smart move. 2930 Bristol St., 714-556-0176. See Irvine location. $$$
IZAKAYA HACHI
A handsome, modern izakaya from the owners of Manpuku, Hachi is a boisterous, convivial gem.
The charcoal-grilled skewers shine, including the chicken meatball and chicken thigh. Expect a little bit of everything here: gloriously marbled beef, fresh oysters, composed salads, fried chicken, and unique pressed sushi. 3033 Bristol St., 657-231-6566.
Dinner only. $
OLD VINE KITCHEN & BAR
Popular for its brunch-type fare in a town rife with competing options, this charming nook has upgraded with a larger space. Foodies rave about urbane dishes, many with an Italian accent. Think barbecue pork omelet by day, seasonal tasting menu by night. Chef-owner Mark McDonald likes to pair his dinners with interesting wine flights from the world over, and he regularly leads culinary excursions to southern Italy. 2937 Bristol St., 714-545-1411. $$
TACO MARÍA
Every dish is a marvel of deeply considered modern Cal-Mex cuisine from chef-owner and O.C. native Carlos Salgado, who parked his esteemed food truck enterprise for this site. Even the stripped-down setting draws all attention to the food. Dinners are four-course prix fixe affairs, with thoughtful wine pairings. Lunch—when the tacos appear—is a more laid-back and affordable way to sample the refined slant that snagged Salgado a Michelin star and several James Beard nominations for chef awards. 3313 Hyland Ave., 714-538-8444. Beer and wine. $$$
DANA POINT
GLASSPAR
Now an improv market offering the primo seafood typically sold to coastal resorts, Glasspar launched as a classic seafooder, oyster bar, and tap room. Veteran top toque and local Rob Wilson helms his dream retool of the old Mahé site, open for dining as well as supporting the community with ultrafresh goods and his five-star tips for serving seafood at home. A tight focus on top-shelf cocktails is sure to be much appreciated once groups gather within toasting distance. 24961 Dana Point Harbor
Drive, 949-240-6243. $$$
SALT CREEK GRILLE
Rambling Craftsman architecture and a lovely terraced patio supply a handsome backdrop for mesquitegrilled chophouse favorites and comfort classics.
The roomy lounge does a vigorous business when live music lures coastal partiers too chic for beach dives and too dignified for dance clubs. 32802 Pacific
Coast Highway, 949-661-7799. $$
FOUNTAIN VALLEY
THE RECESS ROOM
This city’s first gastropub exists because five childhood pals needed a local haunt for gathering after their weekly basketball game. Food and booze enjoy equal amounts of love at this 148-seat venue—a cleverly retooled former Coco’s. Expect small-batch, offbeat brews and ace craft cocktails, plus lots of rich, shareable noshes. Think tender octopus with toasted quinoa for contrast, luscious pork cheeks confit, and lime-yuzu panna cotta. 18380 Brookhurst
St., 714-377-0398. $$$
FULLERTON
KHAN SAAB DESI CRAFT KITCHEN
Born in the crucible of the pandemic, this halal bistro serves flavorful kebobs, curries, and street snacks alongside wood-fired Wagyu steaks. Creator and executive chef Imran Ali Mookhi applies a Michelin mindset acquired after years in fine-dining kitchens.
Khan Saab has the best stocked alcohol-free bar in
O.C. 229 E. Commonwealth Ave., 714-853-1081. $$
MIIRCH SOCIAL
This Indian mashup is a relaxed haunt that leans modern. The open kitchen serves traditional
Indian cuisine tweaked with global ingredients or
Indian flavors applied to comfort foods. Think butter chicken paneer poutine, nine-spice tandoori wings, and a fabulous lamb biryani. Don’t overlook the ingenious cocktails and mocktails. 138 W. Commonwealth Ave., 714-519-3501 $$
GARDEN GROVE
NOVA KITCHEN & BAR
This glamorous sleeper is a terrific dinner choice for distinctive fare that nods to Japan,
Korea, and China. The handsome 35-seat lanai covered patio is beyond fine. Executive chef Abel Vargas oversees a sizable menu that also includes showy sushi and top-shelf cocktails. Do consider the tuna tartare, corn tempura, or coriander-braised short rib. Genteel service. 12361 Chapman Ave., 714696-0888. $$$
HUNTINGTON BEACH
RED TABLE
The “red” in Red Table, Huntington Harbour mall’s neighborhood tavern, stands for “relax, eat, drink.”
The creative menu of American eats is big on highcarb snacks, savory share plates, and strapping proteins that feel right in a welcoming setting accented with quirky design elements and a red communal table. 16821 Algonquin St., 714-846-4700. Beer and wine. $$
SESSIONS
Surf City is the ideal spot for the second “West Coast deli,” this time across from the sand. Terrific sandwiches that eat like a meal for two are gourmet creations, meticulous stacks of top ingredients with exacting ratios, so every ’wich is scrumptious to the last bite. From-scratch soups, sides, and dressings. A surfer ethos extends to hearty breakfasts featuring
Kéan coffee and house-made granola. 414 Pacific
Coast Highway, 714-594-3899. Beer and wine. See
Irvine and Newport Beach locations. Fourth location (not reviewed) in Newport Beach at 101 Newport Center Drive. $
IRVINE
ANDREI’S CONSCIOUS CUISINE & COCKTAILS
Irvine’s ever-slicker business zone is a good home for this classy, top-floor, New American choice for power diners, office pals, and couples. Modern craft cocktails enhance a menu that blends California ingredients with global flavors. Top toque Porfiro
Gomez’s menu retains favorites such as the beef spring rolls, watermelon salad, and Duroc pork
T-bone. Happy hour is a standout in a crowded field. 2607 Main St., 949-387-8887. $$
BISTANGO
A longtime airport-area mainstay, Bistango has remained surprisingly contemporary, with creative dishes such as sweet, soulful garlic soup, and black truffle ravioli. It’s also a classy venue for live music, and its rotating art collection adds to the air of urban sophistication. 19100 Von Karman Ave., 949-752-5222. $$$
HABANA
We waited 22 years for this glamorous Habana sibling, and it was worth it—a sprawling 300-seat compound that co-opts Cuba’s frozen-in-time splendor.
A roomy patio open to the sky is made intimate by high walls and lots of beautiful props and vignettes, with alcoves dedicated to house pastries and coffees. Despite the impressive scale, the menu hews tightly to the focused offerings at its Costa Mesa original. 708 Spectrum Center Drive, 949-419-0100.
See Costa Mesa location. $$$
JA JIAOZI
It’s all about handmade dumplings here. They grace every table, anchoring meals rounded out with other hot and cold dishes. Firsttimers, ask your able server for help. Top picks include steamed Flaming Hot and boiled Signature jiaozi, along with refreshing tofu-skin salad. Topnotch shrimp fried rice is a winner, too. Watch the masters at work from a five-seat bar. 13776 Jamboree Road, Irvine, 714-786-8999. $$
PORCH & SWING
BEST NEW RESTAURANT 2021
This delightful new indie serves a “taste of Charleston” starring original riffs on American classics by chef Justin Werner and cocktails by Andrew Parish. Musttry dishes include roasted pork jowl over grits, amazing creamless creamed corn, and gorgeous Beet and goat cheese tortellini at Porch & Swing
salads. House-baked breads are a strength, too. The patio is lovely. 2010 Main St., 949-418-7988. $$
PUESTO
San Diego’s high-profile taqueria has two Irvine options for O.C. fans. Delectable tacos are the main event, elevated by crispy griddled Oaxacan cheese, and tortillas made by hand from organic, non-GMO, blue corn masa. The cheese is especially brilliant on vegetarian tacos. Always ask about the monthly taco special. The Park Place center location’s indoor-meets-outdoor venue is intimate and color-splashed. Park Place, 3311 Michelson
Drive, 949-608-7272; Los Olivos Marketplace, 8577
Irvine Center Drive, 949-608-9990. $$
SESSIONS
No. 3 is a charm for O.C.’s indie chainlet of “West
Coast” delis. Expect terrific sandwiches that eat like a meal for two, gourmet creations that are meticulous stacks of top ingredients with exacting ratios, so every ’wich is scrumptious to the last bite. Fromscratch soups, sides, and dressings. A beguiling lakeside setting beckons for lazy breakfasts featuring
Kéan coffee and house-made granola. 4736 Barranca Parkway, 949-333-3949. Beer and wine. See
Huntington Beach and Newport Beach locations.
Fourth location (not reviewed) in Newport Beach at 101 Newport Center Drive. $
TACO ROSA
With agave-sweetened margaritas, daily aguas frescas, and house-made churros, these flagships of the
Taco Mesa chain take fresh Mex to the max. Try the
Oaxacan enchiladas. 13792 Jamboree Road, 714-5056080. See Newport Beach location. $$
LAGUNA BEACH
BROADWAY BY AMAR SANTANA
Boy wonder chef Amar Santana and industry vet Ahmed Labbate decamped
Charlie Palmer to create this sexy urban bistro. Fans old and new keep the tight quarters humming to the backdrop of an open kitchen and vintage flicks playing on the flat-screen over the expansive bar.
Santana’s dishes are opulent and intense. The wine
list includes many notable half-bottles. 328 Glenneyre St., 949-715-8234. $$$
THE DRAKE
The grown-ups sipping cocktails are here for a full serving of primo live music paired with the cuisine of Paul Gstrein (ex of
Bistango and Bayside). Laguna’s own Alec Glasser prevails in creating a dashing joint where both the musicians and the kitchen have serious chops. Diners dig into Euro-inflected dishes (try the lamb lollipops, the Alpine Melt, the chile-lime swordfish).
Musicians dig the highbrow sound system, and the room generates a superlative groove. 2894 S. Coast
Highway, 949-376-1000. $$$
DRIFTWOOD KITCHEN
With its gorgeous seaside panorama, this place perfectly illustrates the food-versus-view gamble.
Prudent choices on chef Rainer Schwarz’s seasonal menu include whole fried fish, an unusual entree pairing of butcher steak-pork belly, and tarts by pastry chef Rene Baez. Brunch items and craft drinks also are good bets. 619 Sleepy Hollow Lane, 949715-7700. $$
NICK’S
Perched on Laguna’s prime stretch of Coast Highway, this inviting, urbane bar and grill lures grown-ups who prefer to skip the surfer grub scene in favor of tasty cocktails and a compact all-day menu of comfort classics with modern twists. Ace bets include the steakhouse salad and blackened halibut sandwich. Softly lit and cushily appointed, the open-air space boasts a sidewalk patio. Sociable service is notably polished. 440 S. Coast Highway, 949-3768595. See San Clemente location. $$
OLIVER’S OSTERIA
Wedged into an oddball canyon retail center, this tidy shop is chef-owner Erik De Marchi’s all-out defense of faithful fare inspired by his home turf of Italy’s Emilia-Romana region. Pastas are wondrous, but do wait to hear the daily specials that can include juicy lamb chops or crepes (crespelle) with porcini mushrooms in truffle-perfumed béchamel. Tight quarters make dining noisy when the room is full. And Oliver? He’s De Marchi’s first
child, born on opening day. 853 Laguna Canyon
Road, 949-715-0261. $$$
SAPPHIRE CELLAR CRAFT COOK
The latest incarnation of Laguna Beach’s historic Coast Highway venue is much better than it has to be, given its bulletproof location.
Upmarket, innovative American cuisine by executive chef Jared Cook includes irresistible weekend brunch waffles and Benedicts, classy lunch salads, and dinners that star fresh oysters and a splendid ribeye. On-site pantry for beach eats. 1200 South
Coast Highway, 949-715-9888. $$$
SELANNE STEAK TAVERN
Anaheim Ducks star Teemu Selanne cements his brand with this polished and popular steak joint on a venerated stretch of Coast Highway.
Prime, pricey beef rules the day on executive chef
Vince Terusa’s menu designed for a pro athlete’s appetite and fan base. We like the main floor’s easy, breezy tavern for terrific cocktails, the superlative burger, and world-class people-watching. 1464 S.
Coast Highway, 949-715-9881. Dinner only. $$$
SPLASHES RESTAURANT
Easily one of our coast’s top resort options for a surf’s-edge indulgence, this contemporary dining room and lounge are famed for pricey romantic meals and sunset drinks. Ron Fougeray is executive chef. A stunning Pacific view dazzles, as does
Fougeray’s five-star resume that includes a James
Beard nomination. Surf & Sand Resort, 1555 S. Coast
Highway, 888-281-3502. $$$
LAGUNA HILLS
BREAK OF DAWN
Fine-dining chef Dee Nguyen never looked back when he escaped five-star kitchens to create this daytime diner serving wildly creative comfort fare with Asian inflections. Whether sweet—French toast crème brûlée with Mexican chocolate—or savory—
Hawaiian sausage with fried eggs, scallions, green papaya, and rice—the result is spellbinding. 24291
Avenida De La Carlota, 949-587-9418. $$
IRONWOOD
The savvy team behind Vine in San Clemente notches another hit with this welcoming dinner house in a zone with scant options. Executive chef Jared Cook’s modern, seasonal menu roams from delicate to hearty, but all dishes showcase his knack for upping the crave factor. Examples: chicken schnitzel with mushrooms, Zinfandelbraised lamb shank with mint yogurt. Terrific craft cocktails shift with the seasons. On-point service from a gracious crew. 25250 La Paz Road, 949-4468772. Dinner only. $$$
MISSION VIEJO
DUBLIN 4 GASTROPUB
Publicans Darren and Jean Coyle welcome a varied crowd to this chipper modern pub, designed to rival Dublin’s finest. Executive chef
David Shofner applies fine-dining cred and scratch cooking to a menu of new and old-school fare that sparkles. Don’t-miss items include premium cottage pies, a killer lamb burger, and anything with house-cured meats. Upscale pricing and dapper surroundings prove this is not your frat brother’s
Irish pub. 26342 Oso Parkway, 949-582-0026. $$$
WINEWORKS FOR EVERYONE
This near-hidden pocket bistro is a top choice for wine-centric cuisine in South County. A retooled menu by chef David Shofner, who also helms the kitchen at Dublin 4 next door, brims with seasonal
California fare that flatters a wine list of West Coast and international bottles. Must-haves include sausage flatbread, and a killer cheese plate. 26342 Oso
Parkway, 949-582-0026. Beer and wine. $$$
NEWPORT BEACH
BAYSIDE
Classy Bayside remains a go-to choice on many fronts. Nightly happy hour stars a winning small-plates menu that keeps the bar hopping.
Rotating artwork keeps the dining room ever fresh for relaxed meals of debonair American fare. Long favored by the coastal set for jazzy brunches, insiders stop in on Friday nights for a legendary jam session in the bar. Prix fixe menus are a strength here. 900 Bayside Drive, 949-721-1222. $$$
BELLO BY SANDRO NARDONE
Previously of upmarket pizzeria Angelina’s, Sandro
Nardone flies solo with this molto moderno Italiano overhaul of a sprawling spot. Nardone’s style is urbane, so expect no lasagna here. Instead, look for
43
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RESTAURANTS
17th Street Grill 714.730.0003 Belacan Grill
MALAYSIAN BISTRO 714.505.9908 The Coffee Grinder 714.838.0960 The Crab Cooker 714.573.1077 El Torito 714.838.6630 Zov’s Bakery & Café 714.838.8855 Zov’s Bistro 714.838.8855
SERVICES
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FASHION
A Perfect Fit
FINE LINGERIE 714.665.5994 Frank’s Menswear 714.730.5945 La Galleria
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AA Jewel Box 714.669.9966 Charleston Provence
BOUTIQUE 714.508.8581 Chemers Gallery 714.731.5432 Deckers Fine Gifts 714.832.7074 Discoveries
CONTEMPORARY CRAFTS 714.544.6206 H. Foster & Jackson 714.544.4635 Justin Porterfi eld, Ltd. 714.544.5223
enderlecenter.com | 714.731.2911
SEVENTEENTH STREET & YORBA ST., TUSTIN — 55 FRWY. NORTH OR SOUTH, EXIT SEVENTEENTH ST. EAST
distinctive creations such as mortadella mousse canoli with liquid pineapple mustard. Crispy octopus with Calabrian vinaigrette is another crowd favorite.
Cocktails show imagination, and the wine list has some rare gems. Coming soon, Nardone’s take on hip patio brunching. 1200 Bison Ave., 949-520-7191. $$$
FABLE & SPIRIT
BEST NEW RESTAURANT 2020
From the family behind Dublin 4 comes this lush addition to the area across from Lido Marina Village. But don’t assume this is an Irish pub that mimics the other. This plush room features inventive fare that’s a mashup of American and Irish. Here you start with
Hares Looking at You, a cocktail starring Wheatley vodka and carrot juice, move on to the refined beet agnolotti with chèvre foam, or share a woodfired duck confit pizetta. Yes, the fish and chips are superior, but so is the rabbit fricassee. 3441 Via Lido, 949-409-9913. $$$
LIDO BOTTLE WORKS
This handsome waterfront venue sounds like a liquor store, but it’s a sleeper of a full-service restaurant hiding in the swanky Lido Marina Village development. Hyper-seasonal and prettily plated, notable creations include Dory Fleet catches of the day, opulent Iberico secreto pork, a solid burger, and one glorious chocolate mousse. 3408 Via Oporto, 949-529-2784. $$
OLEA CELLAR CRAFT COOK
Eastside’s dapper dinner house is the latest offering from the polished crew behind sister restaurants Ironwood and Vine, a homegrown hospitality group. Fans of chef Jared Cook will recognize some familiar dishes from his sibling shops, but there are exclusives here, too. We’re mad for the opulent duck liver terrine with bacon and bourbon, and those fine oysters baked with blue crab in tarragon butter. Add top-notch cocktails and 50 notable wines by the glass. 2001 Westcliff Drive,
Newport Beach, 949-287-6807. Dinner nightly. $$$
SESSIONS
This busy “West Coast deli” on the peninsula crafts terrific sandwiches that eat like a meal for two. Gourmet creations with kooky names are meticulous stacks of top ingredients with exacting ratios, so every ’wich is scrumptious to the last bite.
A surfer vibe extends to hearty breakfasts at 7 a.m. daily, starring Golden State Coffee Roaster coffee. 2823 Newport Blvd., 949-220-9001. Beer and wine.
See Huntington Beach and Irvine locations. Fourth location (not reviewed) in Newport Beach at 101
Newport Center Drive. $
SHOREBIRD
Hidden inside the Vue Newport enclave, Shorebird is invisible until you enter the airy split-level space dominated by its waterfront view.
Expect contemporary American fare plus familiar side detours for sushi and tacos. Best bets include
Duroc pork chop, lump crab cakes, avocado fries. 2220 Newport Blvd., 949-287-6627. $$$
SUSHI ROKU
The sixth location of this Cal-Japanese concept makes a huge impression with striking decor and vibrant cuisine. If the dining room’s busier than the sushi bar, blame the thoughtfully designed and executed menu, notably dishes such as fluke kumquat sashimi, blue crab tartare, Prime ribeye Japonais, and the deconstructed s’mores. The creative sushi deserves a night all its own, and the bar and patio offer their own vibes. Look for scores Tin’s dressed oyster at Shorebird
of noodles, salads, and bento boxes at lunch, and sakes. 327 Newport Center Drive, 949-706-3622. $$$
TACO ROSA
With agave-sweetened margaritas and house-made churros, these flagships of the Taco Mesa chain take fresh Mex to the max. 2632 San Miguel Road, 949720-0980. See Irvine location. $$
THE WINERY RESTAURANT & WINE BAR
The snazzy venue overlooks the yacht and Duffy boat traffic in Newport Harbor, flaunting its waterfront charms with 180-degree views from two floors plus a cigar patio. The space sizzles with bonhomie— and diners who love their surf, turf, wine, and VIP treatment. Expect cosseting service from partners JC
Clow, William Lewis, and executive chef Yvon Goetz.
Best bets include Goetz’s signature Alsatian “pizza” and the Colorado buffalo carpaccio. 3131 W. Coast
Highway, 949-999-6622. See Tustin location. $$$
NEWPORT COAST
THE BEACHCOMBER
The surf’s-edge view might be better than the food, but the drinks and eats are good enough to keep this iconic spot packed with beachgoers, especially in summer. Stick with basics such as grilled artichokes, lobster club, and stuffed salmon. Executive chef Carlos Olivera oversees the breakfast, lunch, and dinner menus that change slightly each season. 15 Crystal
Cove, 949-376-6900. $$$
BLUEFIN
Adroit chef Takashi Abe applies his considerable talents to pristine ingredients he fashions into gorgeous works of edible Japanese art. His omakase is transcendent (and cheaper at lunch). The setting is suitably spare and visually soothing. Superior sake selection. 7952 E. Pacific Coast Highway, 949715-7373. $$$
MARCHÉ MODERNE
BEST NEW RESTAURANT 2018
The finest French bistro south of Beverly Hills is reborn in coastal digs that express a fresh chapter for the redoubtable Florent and Amelia Marneau. Added space and oversize windows let the outdoors into
a room that oozes grace and sophistication. Beloved dishes such as Spanish octopus with chorizo return to the dinner menu alongside new creations from the open kitchen—think crispy suckling pigs and beans, a three-day cassoulet. Amelia’s new desserts include ravishing Napoleons served weekends only. 7862 E. Pacific Coast Highway, 714-434-7900. $$$
WASA SUSHI
James Hamamori cemented his stardom at this striking shopping-center spot brimming with devotees of modern spins on sushi. Renowned for such fare as salmon with ginger sauce and fresh orange. Exceptional selection of salads, appetizers, and entrees as well. 1344 Bison Ave., 949-760-1511.
Beer and wine. $$
ZOV’S NEWPORT COAST
This attractive shopping center offshoot of the popular original Zov’s in Tustin is a go-to patio cafe that lures locals with creative Cal-Med dishes such as
Moroccan salmon salad, spiced lamb burger, and pomegranate baby back ribs. Desserts are a standout, as are cocktails and chic mezze starters. 21123
Newport Coast Drive, 949-760-9687. See Tustin location. $$$
ORANGE
GABBI’S MEXICAN KITCHEN
Gabbi Patrick grew up working in her family’s Mexican restaurants, then studied at the Greystone Culinary Academy in Napa. The menu reveals her formal training as it embraces her family’s background.
With items such as gorditas al pastor (masa cakes with Kurobuta pork belly and a pineapple-onion relish), Patrick’s plates celebrate simple, honest flavors. 141 S. Glassell St., 714-633-3038. $$
HAVEN CRAFT KITCHEN + BAR
A serious contender in the gastropub category, this popular storefront in Old Towne lures a mixed crowd of brew fanatics and foodies, thanks to a rich roster of esoteric suds and polished pub grub from chef Craig Brady. Dishes such as a braised lamb pappardelle and coriander roasted baby carrots. Lunch and early dinner are options for bypassing the deafening din that rises with the crowd. 190 S. Glassell
St., 714-221-0680. $$
RANCHO SANTA MARGARITA
THE BLIND PIG KITCHEN & BAR
Lakeside seats, terrific craft cocktails, and daring fare by young chef Karl Pfleider earn local love for this rare gastro-canteen in Rancho
Santa Margarita. Midweek tapas start at 3 p.m. with goodies such as steak tartare with pistachio XO sauce. But wait until 5 p.m. for the mahi-mahi with paprika mole. 31431 Santa Margarita Parkway, 949888-0072. Second location (not reviewed) in Yorba
Linda, 4975 Lakeview Ave., 714-485-2593. $$
SAN CLEMENTE
BRICK
The menu of authentic, seasonal cuisine says Italy, but the unfussy setting and beach-casual regulars make for a solid California vibe at this trattoria by chef-owner David Pratt. Thin-crust pizzas from the wood-fired Valoriani oven are composed with care, but don’t miss the house-made pastas and seasonal
salads. Amazing meatballs, too. 216 N. El Camino
Real, 949-429-1199. $$
MRK PUBLIC
Three chefs, two of them former co-chefs at Tabu
Grill in Laguna Beach, transform a fast-casual fixture into a winning spot that offers craft beers, all $5, and a tightly edited menu of elevated favorites, notably
Tuscan toast, and a terrific fried chicken sandwich.
The rear counter offers a distant ocean view. 1402
S. El Camino Real, 949-441-7621. Beer and wine. $
NICK’S
On a prime stretch of vintage Avenida del Mar, this inviting bar and grill is just urbane enough to lure grown-ups who prefer to skip the surfer grub scene in favor of crackerjack cocktails and a compact all-day menu of comfort classics with a modern twist. Ace bets include the steakhouse salad and blackened fish sandwich. And there’s a sidewalk patio with fireplace.
Sociable service is notably polished. 213 Avenida del
Mar, 949-481-2200. See Laguna Beach location. $$
VINE
A decor revamp of the cozy dining room and a menu overhaul add up to impressive new heights, because owner Russ Bendel Jr. wisely gives sauce monster and executive chef Jared Cook full reign over the kitchen. Look for killer duck wings and nightly specials that tend to sell out. A garden out back only sweetens this gem. 211 N. El Camino Real, 949-3612079. Dinner only. $$$
SAN JUAN CAPISTRANO
MAYFIELD
Modern, hyper-seasonal California fare meets the timeless food ways of the Middle
East at this ingenious newcomer. Breezy two-story digs include a pretty quartz bar for leading-edge cocktails. Do try fried eggplant, lamb meatballs, and shareable dips. By day, look for indulgent brunch dishes. 31761 Camino Capistrano, 949-218-5140. $$$
PUBLIC 74
This county-line gastropub radiates a welcoming vibe that attracts customers of all types to its fauxramshackle chic, second-story venue. Craft brews, booze, and decidedly eclectic eats change often, as executive chef Gerry Kent keeps the smallish menu seasonal. Definitely consider the two-handed Reuben, and there’s a seasonal monster burger. 27211
Ortega Highway, 949-481-2723. $$
RAMOS HOUSE CAFÉ
A sweet adobe hiding in the historic Los Rios district,
Ramos House Café turns out some of South County’s most delectable daytime fare. Contemporary and clever American breakfasts and lunches (brunch on weekends) have a distinct Southern accent that fits the rustic, alfresco setting with passing trains as soundtrack. Look for ethereal biscuits and crab hash. And don’t miss the killer bloody mary. 31752
Los Rios St., 949-443-1342. $$
SANTA ANA [ SEE ALSO SOUTH COAST METRO ] BENCHMARK
Quirky but capable, this Santa Ana newcomer goes all-in for alfresco, luring diners with a tree-shaded setting on a vintage residential street. The modest menu of American bistro dishes is just big enough to have wide appeal. Happy hour and weekend brunch have a backyard party vibe. Dinner surprises with upmarket dishes, say a lovely bavette steak atop celery root purée. 601 E. Santa Ana Blvd., 714-480-0225. $$
CHATO’S BAR AND GRILL
This intrepid Mexican canteen offers less familiar dishes—corundas, roast quail—alongside comfort favorites such as ceviche and chilaquiles. Michoacán native Sergio Ortega previously of Descanso, is executive chef. Inaugural meals include dinner nightly and Sunday brunch. Commendable drinks. 400 N. Broadway, 714-852-3256. $$
EL MERCADO MODERN CUISINE
Deceptively bare bones, the menu offers about 20 dishes, each showcasing a regional recipe from
Mexico’s distinctive territories. Don’t miss a sublime aguachile verde. Also impressive: crisp tacos ahogado in hot broth. We loved the guajillo salsa-soaked bread in the open-face pork pambazo at brunch.
Inventive cocktails lean on mezcal and house-made bitters. The vintage site with soaring ceilings seats 115 and boasts modern artwork. Expect kind, unflappable service. 301 N. Spurgeon St., 714-338-2446. $$
Authentic Italian Cuisine
Fresh ingredients and authentic recipes “della nonna”.
Famiglia
We are a family owned and operated establishment that wants to share its passion for delicious food, great wine and even better customer service - when you are at il sole you are with family.
Two locations bringing the best food and wine closer to home. Established in Rancho Santa Margarita and new location in San Juan Capistrano. Il Sole - La Nuova Cucina
ilsolecucina.com
MIX MIX KITCHEN BAR
BEST NEW RESTAURANT 2017
DTSA got a major dining upgrade with this winner from chef-owner Ross Pangilinan. A veteran of highend dining, his major culinary chops rule the day but not the tab at his breakout venue with zero pretension and multicourse meals packed with finesse. Think prosciutto toast with quince honey, and seared foie gras with al pastor spices and charred pineapple. Spiffy craft cocktails, too. 300 N. Main St., 714-836-5158. Dinner only. $$$
SOUTH COAST METRO
ANQI
Tight focus on the fare makes dining at this South Coast Plaza hot spot better than ever.
Executive chef Ron Lee makes delicious harmony with matriarch master chef Helene An’s spicy beef tacos and roasted New Zealand lamb rack, as well as her fabled roast crab (Tuesday only). Zen chic decor turns heads. Drinks at the dramatic bar dazzle the cocktail crowd, but try Sunday brunch for a more kickback experience, or snag a padded stool at the adjacent noodle bar. 3333 Bristol St., 714-557-5679. $$$
ANTONELLO RISTORANTE
For more than three decades South Coast Plaza’s
Italian grand diva has reigned for ultrafine feasting on authentic, traditional dishes backed by a savvy wine selection deep with Italian stars. House-made pastas, breads, and desserts. The restaurant’s aura of privilege is underscored by pampering service for VIPs. A full-service wine bar is the latest update. 3800 South Plaza Drive, 714-751-7153. $$$
THE HALL GLOBAL EATERY
The Hall’s 10,000-square-feet is a wonderland of casual offerings, but do search out the seasonal poke creations from Amar Santana. They explode with worldly flavors best enjoyed on the tranquil patio lounge with sophisticated cocktails by bar star
Michael Rooney. Inside The Hall, graze on shawarmas, sandwiches, salads, and superb pastries and coffees from the patisserie. 3333 Bristol St., 714-515-5544. $$
DIN TAI FUNG
Fans happily endure long waits to satisfy their craving for xiao long bao, juicy pork dumplings, handpleated with care. Bowls of noodles, rice, and stacks of bamboo steamers crowd tables as diners blend their own aromatic dipping sauce from rich soy, black vinegar, and shreds of fresh ginger. 3333 Bristol St., 714-549-3388. $$
HAMAMORI
Sushi master artist James Hamamori applies persuasive talent to this South Coast Plaza penthouse dazzler of a sushi bar. Son Jim is now behind the bar, too, but this heavenly venue also shows off non-sushi dishes such as uni floating in edamame puree, Kobe rissole, and miso-marinated lamb chops. Omakase is truly top-notch. 3333 Bear St., 714-850-0880. $$$
KNIFE PLEAT
Knife Pleat replaces Marché Moderne in the penthouse of South Coast Plaza. The radically transformed 80-seat setting is a clear signal that this
French arrival is wholly apart from its predecessor.
Chef Tony Esnault and partner Yassmin Sarmadi are new to O.C. though acclaimed in Los Angeles, and in the case of Esnault, covered in Michelin star dust after years with mentor Alain Ducasse. Esnault is a disciple of the seasons; his style is light, graceful, and precise Beet salad at Knife Pleat
as revealed by escargot ravioli in broth, his famous legumes de saison, or the ultrarefined cassoulet. Don’t skip Germain Biotteau’s indulgent desserts. 3333 Bristol St., 714-266-3388. $$$
RITTER’S STEAM KETTLE COOKING
Chef-partner Mike Ritter and crew create Cajun-
Creole magic in 12 steam-heated steel caldrons that cook seductive versions of gumbo, chowder, and the legendary pan poast—a heady concoction of various shellfish bubbling in a rich sauce of cream, tomato, and secret spices, topped with a dome of perfect jasmine rice—that’s by far the best-selling dish.
And don’t miss the mean po’ boy sandwich. 1421
W. MacArthur Blvd., 714-850-1380. Beer and wine. $$
ROYAL KHYBER
Arun Puri, the creator behind Orange County’s first
Indian restaurant, is still buying the spices and manning the tandoor oven in the skilled kitchen at this upscale choice for first-rate renditions of classics such as butter chicken, tikka masala, and the signature Khyber’s Nectar, a dish of slow-cooked lamb shanks said to be an aphrodisiac. 1621 W. Sunflower
Ave., 714-436-1010. $$ TERRACE BY MIX MIX
Canny chef-owner Ross Pangilinan leverages the success of his original Mix Mix Kitchen Bar in downtown Santa Ana with this minimalist aerie overlooking the stylish Bridge of Gardens skywalk at South
Coast Plaza. This venue lacks a full bar, but it has wine and beer and is open daily with ample free parking. Fans love the three-course lunch for $20, but weekend brunch with its mimosa cart beguiles, and dinner offers the best prix fixe in the center.
Don’t-miss dishes include Asian ribs, hamachi crudo, and pork cheek adobo. 3333 Bear St., 657-231-6447. $$
VACA
Top chef Amar Santana and ace partner Ahmed Labbate return to Costa Mesa with an exuberant, singular ode to Spain. Santana sidesteps the “eat local” crusade, offering peerless jamon Iberico, lush bomba rice for paellas, and verdant Mahon gin for cocktails.
Dozens of authentic tapas beg to be tried, but do consider excellent wood-grilled steaks, dry-aged inhouse. Dinner tables at prime times are scarce, so plan, wait, or aim for lunch. 695 Town Center Drive, 714-463-6060. $$$
TUSTIN
CENTRO STORICO
Old Town Tustin’s new kid on the old block transforms a vintage building into a spaghetteria and bar, plus a back pocket cafe. Artisan, fresh daily pasta is the latest effort from the Pozzuoli family behind
Centro, the excellent micro pizzeria next door. Signature dishes include Capperi e Olive (casarecca),
Aglione (bucatini), and grilled porterhouse for two. 405 El Camino Real., 714-258-8817. $$
CHAAK
Gabbi and Ed Patrick of Gabbi’s Kitchen chose Old Town to show off the county’s most sophisticated take on the regional fare of Mexico’s wondrous Yucatán Peninsula, naming their new location after the Mayan rain god. The dazzling space features a retractable roof and sliding Roman shades to lovely effect. Must-have dishes include sikil pec, a roasted pumpkin seed dip, as well as cochinita pibil and carne cruda. A 16-seat bar invites lingering over elaborate cocktails or a glass from an uncommonly diverse wine list. 215 El Camino
Real, 657-699-3019. $$$
THE WINERY RESTAURANT & WINE BAR
The O.C. power crowd doesn’t care that this isn’t a winery, but a huge, handsome restaurant that attracts disciples of steak, wine, and cigars. They’re exactly the folks you’d expect would follow partners
JC Clow and William Lewis from their previous gig at Morton’s, with executive chef Yvon Goetz in tow.
Best bets include Goetz’s signature Alsatian “pizza” and the Colorado buffalo carpaccio. If the 7,500-bottle wine cellar isn’t enough, you can always purchase a private wine locker. 2647 Park Ave., 714-258-7600.
See Newport Beach location. $$$
THE YELLOW CHILLI
The Yellow Chilli is another franchise by Sanjeev
Kapoor, India’s mega-celebrity chef. Bigger than
Wolfgang or Martha. The massive menu proves the master chef isn’t stingy with recipes, not after writing more than 150 cookbooks. Knowledgeable servers help navigate the options. Don’t miss
Sham Savera, one of Kapoor’s most famous creations: open-face spinach dumplings filled with fresh white paneer that float in silky tomato gravy spiked with garlic, cardamom, and mace. 2463 Park
Ave., 714-389-5280. $$
ZOV’S TUSTIN BISTRO
Fans love Zov Karamardian’s modern, creative way with Mediterranean flavors. Zov keeps her flagship venue fresh and stylish. Expect Cal-Med dishes such as Moroccan salmon salad, spiced lamb burger, and pomegranate baby back ribs. Desserts are a standout, as are cocktails and chic mezze starters. The patio cafe out back stays busy at lunch and weekend breakfast. 17440 E. 17th St., 714-838-8855.
See Newport Coast location. $$$
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