DINING GUIDE NOTE FROM THE EDITOR
AS OF PRESS TIME IN EARLY MAY, RESTAURANTS WERE ALLOWED TO SERVE DINERS IN LIMITED CAPACIT Y. RULES CHANGE OFTEN: PLEASE USE THIS GUIDE AS A STARTING POINT, THEN CALL THE RESTAURANT TO LEARN ABOUT RESTRICTIONS AND RESERVATIONS. DESCRIPTIONS HERE ARE MOSTLY BASED ON DINING BEFORE SOCIAL DISTANCING. JU
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DINING GUIDE ORANGE COUNT Y’S DEFINITIVE SOURCE F O R R E S TAU R A N T N E W S & M I N I R E V I E W S P R I C I N G $$$ $50 and up $$ Less than $50 $ Mostly less than $25 Denotes Critic’s Choice restaurant
ANAHEIM NAPA ROSE Wine country thrives at the Disneyland Resort by way of this classy dinner house— no park admission required. Star chef Andrew Sutton leads his crew in an exhibition kitchen, turning out imaginative, highly seasonal New American fare. The room mixes rustic with refined, and the notably wine-savvy waitstaff, many qualified as sommeliers, deftly tailors unforgettable meals around wines from one of the region’s finest cellars. Disney’s Grand Californian Hotel & Spa, 1313 Disneyland Drive, 714-300-7170. $$$ THE RANCH RESTAURANT & SALOON Oozing top-notch ambition, The Ranch packs some big guns—executive chef Michael Rossi and his brother David, pastry chef. The large venue also includes an upscale saloon and dance hall, sited in the six-story headquarters of Extron Electronics. The whopping (mostly) seasonal American fare is a mashup of down-home and uptown. 1025 E. Ball Road, 714-817-4200. $$$ TRUE SEASONS ORGANIC KITCHEN This sleek storefront by Saifon Plewtong now adds wraps, bowls, smoothies, and desserts to a menu that once focused solely on hot pots. Still, the spotlight is on organic, GMO-free local produce and all-natural proteins. Do try the fresh-pressed sugar cane juice for a refresher like no other in these parts. 5675 E. La Palma Ave., 714-462-9223. Beer and wine. $$
URBANA This colorful latecomer to the Anaheim Packing House brings vibrancy and a cool cantina attitude to a food hall that really needed a good taco and mezcal cocktail. Executive chef Ernie Alvarado’s short menu of savvy street food changes often, and you can’t go wrong with his daily specials. Cozy surroundings offer a choice of ambience—festive or sultry. 440 S. Anaheim Blvd., 714-502-0255. $$
ANAHEIM HILLS REUNION KITCHEN + DRINK Popular with the locals, this dapper haunt oozes bonhomie thanks to a solid team led by industry vet Scott McIntosh, whose feel-good American classics are consistently executed by a tight kitchen. Service is sharp. Look for a homey meatloaf, laudable fried chicken with yummy mashers and fresh biscuits, and house-made desserts. Modern cocktails and a roomy patio increase the pleasure factor. 5775 E. Santa Ana Canyon Road, 714-283-1062. Second location (not yet reviewed) in Laguna Beach. $$
BRE A MACALL ANS PUBLIC HOUSE Chef Andrew Wang’s modern but comforting pub cooking is just one upgrade that’s helping this young venue finally catch on in North County. Topnotch whiskey offerings and a killer Irish breakfast on weekends also entice. Don’t miss the ridiculously authentic Irish coffee, or stop in for the very robust
happy hour. The upscale vibe is a welcome switch from the usual timeworn pub conditions. 330 W. Birch St., 714-529-1224. $$ OLD BREA CHOP HOUSE Finally, North County’s fine diners can skip the trek south to splurge on old-school steakhouse dinners. Longtime Morton’s veteran Tony Fasulo breaks away, polishing the classy formula to a high sheen. Expect deluxe beef, say a Tomahawk chop or a strapping Delmonico, boosted with firstclass seafood, precise cocktails, and cosseting service. Marinated skirt steak is the sleeper call. Cozy yet utterly contemporary, the venue includes a 25-seat bar with charcuterie platters and an alluring happy hour. 180 S. Brea Blvd., 714-592-3122. Dinner only. $$$ TAPS FISH HOUSE & BREWERY Taps continues to be O.C.’s landmark pick for dining on a wide range of appealing seafood, pasta, steaks, and spunky New Orleans specialties that go down well with award-winning ales and lagers that change often. Happy hour is a big draw for valueseekers. Sunday brunch is a popular feast. 101 E. Imperial Highway, 714-257-0101. $$
CORONA DEL MAR CAFÉ JARDIN Plein-air lunching is better than ever NEW inside this spectacular walled garden where the inimitable Pascal Olhats serves unfussy French bistro fare informed by the seasons and site-grown herbs and greens. High points include trout almondine, grilled octopus, and lamb salad. Sherman Library & Gardens, 2647 E. Coast Highway, 949-673-0033. $5 admission, free parking. Closed Monday and Tuesday. $$$ FARMHOUSE AT ROGER’S GARDENS This beguiling patio is chef-owner Rich Mead’s fourth and busiest enterprise yet, an inspired collaboration between a farmer’s dream chef and O.C.’s iconic outdoor lifestyle retailer. The restaurantgazebo seats 120 with rustic style, making this the fresh favorite for dates and celebrations. Mead’s seasonal menu shifts often to reflect his passion for local family farms and ranches. Craft cocktails have a farmers market tilt, and a nascent cheese program rounds out the ever-changing feast. 2301 San Joaquin Hills Road, 949-640-1415. $$$ SIDEDOOR Nested within the landmark Lawry’s Five Crowns, this gastropub welcomes come-asyou-are diners with a changing daily menu of imaginative small plates, seasonal soups, prime rib sandwiches, potpies, and desserts. Don’t miss the charcuterie station with choice cured meats and artisanal cheeses. Always interesting wines by the
OUR CRITERIA Restaurants are reviewed by our dining critics and staff and have no relationship to advertising in Orange Coast. Listings are updated regularly. We do not accept free meals; visits are anonymous. Price classifications are based on a typical three‑course dinner (appetizer, entree, dessert) for one person. Alan Gibbons edits this listing. You can reach her at agibbons@orangecoast.com. 140 Ora nge C o ast • June 2021