FOOD
DRINK The fine signature burger is a straightforward exercise in proper ratios, each familiar topping harmonizing well with the 8-ounce beef patty, ground in-house, and custom bun by neighboring OC Baking Co. Order it “chef’s way,” with Black Forest bacon, three cheeses, onion jam, beefsteak tomato, lettuce, and garlic aioli. It’s an exceptional build that will haunt your dreams until you have it again. Craggy wedge fries with chowchow ketchup are the imperative side. Fries also flatter the inspired shaved, roasted pork chop sandwich with barbecue cabbage slaw. Gulf shrimp and grits (dinner and brunch) are beautifully rendered with a Gouda tang laced through artisanal grits under a generous serving of sweet shrimp slick with fragrant creole flavors. The 12-hour short rib is fall-apart tender atop a deck of scalloped potatoes, graced by a silky black pepper sauce. A crunchy veil of fried onions is the unbilled surprise
that makes the dish better than it needs to be. That short rib reappears at brunch in chilaquiles that soar far above the oversweet Fruity Pebbles French Toast that’s been invading Instagram for years now. Brunch is on weekends and features more than a dozen dedicated dishes. If the commendable chilaquiles sound too mainstream, there’s a donut burger for you extreme day drinkers. Fresh biscuits and pulled pork hash make the Smokehouse Benedict a standout. All six desserts are house-made. Fried apple pie under vanilla ice cream is exactly what you expect and definitely better than the sugary but low-flavor red velvet churros. Skip the ho-hum strawberry cake and instead consider the retro banana pudding. I’m all in on any place with a Whiskey of the Month. And a craft cocktail of the month. Be sure to request a large cube or risk losing lose your Old-Fashioned to rapid dilution. Better yet, have the gutsy
Black Manhattan—it’s served up. Beverage Director Matt Sharp runs a fierce whiskey collection in the hundreds and looks to add special bottles such as Private Selection from Four Roses distillery. Private tastings and custom menu dining are slated for the 14-person Whiskey Room. Friendly servers are well-trained and efficient—too efficient on one visit when my waiter was obsessed with clearing plates I was still eating from. Pop hits from the ’80s blare from inside, amping the lively vibe. To escape Bon Jovi, choose a table on the 48-seat patio. Cofounder JT Reed reports that revamping the site took a mere 14 months and credits the pandemic for enabling extreme focus on the extraordinary project. That’s maybe 45 days in restaurant years. Also sure to happen fast? Bosscat Kitchen working its way into the hearts of generations of Rod’s Liquor fans.
Authentic Italian Cuisine
Fresh ingredients and authentic recipes “della nonna”. Famiglia We are a family owned and operated establishment that wants to share its passion for delicious food, great wine and even better customer service - when you are at il sole you are with family.
Two locations bringing the best food and wine closer to home. Established in Rancho Santa Margarita and new location in San Juan Capistrano.
62 ORA NGE C O AST • July 2021
Il Sole - La Nuova Cucina ilsolecucina.com
