DINING GUIDE Many of our 200-plus restaurant reviews

SEPTEM BER 2021

DINING GUIDE

ORANGE COUNTY’S DEFINITIVE SOURCE FOR RESTAURANT NEWS & MINIREVIEWS

PRICING $$$ $50 and up $$ Less than $50 $ Mostly less than $25

Denotes Critic’s Choice restaurant

ALISO VIEJO

OPAH

Trendy and sleek, this neighborhood hottie oozes a hip energy that attracts single minglers and ’burban scene-hunters in search of artfully prepared

California cuisine. Choose from a varied, creative menu with an array of signature items. 26851 Aliso

Creek Road, 949-360-8822. $$

ANAHEIM

BLUSKY RESTAURANT & BAR

Gawk at the view from the 12-story rooftop digs, but know that BluSky’s Basque cuisine is what really makes this hotel restaurant Anaheim’s most interesting newcomer. Executive chef Edgar Beas is fresh off stints at Michelin-star kitchens, applying mastery to a tight menu of Spanish dishes. Look for

Ibérico pork items, indulgent salt cod, and lobster paella. Radisson Blu, 1601 S. Anaheim Blvd., 714-4091458. Dinner only. $$

CATAL RESTAURANT AND UVA BAR

Dead center in Downtown Disney, Catal is the

Patina Group’s nod to Spain’s Mediterranean cuisine. Expect an urbane spin on rustic fare such as lobster paella, making this one of the zone’s better spots for fine dining. Just outside, Uva Bar is an alfresco saloon with light eats and great peoplewatching. 1580 Disneyland Drive, 714-774-4442. $$$

NAPA ROSE

Wine country thrives at the Disneyland Resort by way of this classy dinner house— no park admission required. Chef Andrew Sutton leads his crew in an exhibition kitchen, turning out imaginative, highly seasonal fare. The room mixes rustic with refined, and the notably wine-savvy waitstaff, many qualified as sommeliers, deftly tailors unforgettable meals around wines from one of the region’s finest cellars. Grand Californian Hotel, 1313 Disneyland Drive, 714-300-7170. $$$

THE RANCH RESTAURANT & SALOON

Oozing top-notch ambition, The Ranch packs some big guns—executive chef Michael

Rossi and his brother David, pastry chef. The large venue also includes an upscale saloon and dance hall, sited in the six-story headquarters of Extron

Electronics. The whopping (mostly) seasonal American fare is a mashup of down-home and uptown. 1025 E. Ball Road, 714-817-4200. $$$

TRUE SEASONS ORGANIC KITCHEN

This sleek storefront by Saifon Plewtong now adds wraps, bowls, smoothies, and desserts to a menu that once focused solely on hot pots. Still, the spotlight is on organic, GMO-free local produce and all-natural proteins. Do try the fresh-pressed sugar cane juice for a refresher like no other in these parts. 5675 E. La Palma Ave., 714-462-9223. $$

URBANA

This colorful latecomer to the Anaheim Packing

House brings vibrancy and a cool cantina attitude to a food hall that really needed a good taco and mezcal cocktail. Executive chef Ernie Alvarado’s short menu of savvy street food changes often, and you can’t go wrong with his daily specials. Cozy surroundings offer a choice of ambience—festive or sultry. 440 S. Anaheim Blvd., 714-502-0255. $$

ANAHEIM HILLS

EL CHOLO

A spiffy suburban outpost of the combo-plate chain that started in L.A. in 1923. Many dishes are listed with their year of origin. One of the best dates from the birth of the restaurant: the Sonora-style enchilada topped with a fried egg. Green corn tamales have achieved cult status. 8200 E. Santa

Ana Canyon Road, 714-769-6269. See Corona del Mar and La Habra locations. $$

REUNION KITCHEN + DRINK

Popular with the locals, this dapper haunt oozes bonhomie thanks to a solid team led by industry vet Scott McIntosh, whose feel-good American classics are consistently executed by a tight kitchen. Service is sharp. Look for a homey meatloaf, laudable fried chicken with yummy mashers and fresh biscuits, and house-made desserts. Modern cocktails and a roomy patio increase the pleasure factor. 5775

E. Santa Ana Canyon Road, 714-283-1062. Second location (not yet reviewed) in Laguna Beach. $$ ROSINE’S MEDITERRANEAN RESTAURANT

This neighborhood darling includes a 20-seat bar, complete with a full liquor license and a clutch of specialty cocktails. Fragrant rotisserie chickens are always popular, though the menu now offers winebraised lamb shanks, and Pacific ono skewers. A sizable roster of gluten-free choices anchors a spin-off menu. 721 S. Weir Canyon Road, 714-283-5141. $$

BREA

BRUNOS ITALIAN KITCHEN

One of North County’s best venues boasts advantages that are fairly rare in these parts: thoughtfully executed Italian cuisine, a cozy setting, and appealing prices. This sibling of neighbor Cha Cha’s does winning arancini, steamed mussels, house-made pappardelle, and a fine branzino. A notable happy hour features steep discounts on terrific appetizers and signature Italian cocktails. 210 W. Birch St., 714-257-1000. $$

CHA CHA’S LATIN KITCHEN

This cool hang with a wraparound sidewalk patio is Birch Street Promenade’s most enduring dining success. Helmed by industry vets Don Myers and Peter Serantoni, the menu of modern Mexican fare is boosted by a wood-burning oven and new dishes that blur some borders—sopes, empanadas, aguachile, and pozole. Taco Tuesday is just one of many weekly specials. Impressive tequila menu. 110 W. Birch St., 714-255-1040. See Irvine location. $$

MACALLANS PUBLIC HOUSE

Chef Andrew Wang’s modern but comforting pub cooking is just one upgrade that’s helping this young venue finally catch on in North County. Topnotch whiskey offerings and a killer Irish breakfast on weekends also entice. Don’t miss the ridiculously authentic Irish coffee, or stop in for the very robust happy hour. The upscale vibe is a welcome switch from the usual timeworn pub conditions. 330 W.

Birch St., 714-529-1224. $$

OLD BREA CHOP HOUSE

North County’s fine diners can skip the trek south to splurge on old-school steakhouse dinners. Longtime Morton’s veteran Tony Fasulo breaks away, polishing the classy formula to a high sheen. Expect deluxe beef, say a Tomahawk chop or a strapping Delmonico, boosted with first-class seafood, precise cocktails, and cosseting service.

Marinated skirt steak is the sleeper call. Cozy yet utterly contemporary, the venue includes a 25-seat bar with an alluring happy hour. 180 S. Brea Blvd., 714-592-3122. Dinner only. $$$

TAPS FISH HOUSE & BREWERY

Taps continues to be O.C.’s landmark pick for dining on a wide range of appealing seafood, pasta,

OUR CRITERIA

Restaurants are reviewed by our dining critics and sta and have no relationship to advertising in Orange Coast. Listings are updated regularly. We do not accept free meals; visits are anonymous. Price classifications are based on a typical three-course dinner (appetizer, entree, dessert) for one person. Alan Gibbons edits this listing. You can reach her at agibbons@orangecoast.com.

Margherita pizza at 2145

steaks, and spunky New Orleans specialties that go down well with award-winning ales and lagers that change often. Happy hour is a big draw for value-seekers. Sunday brunch is a popular feast. 101 E. Imperial Highway, 714-257-0101. $$

CORONA DEL MAR

THE BUNGALOW

Comfy booths, a lively bar with stiff martinis, and lots of premium wines by the glass lure diners to this dinner house darling with the feel of a Craftsman home. Prime beef is king, but you also can get a huge Aussie lobster tail. Desserts are classic berries and cream, and chocolate souffle cake, so you can concentrate on your surf ’n’ turf. Lunch is hearty sandwiches and huge high-quality salads.

Just save us a seat on the charming patio. 2441 E.

Coast Highway, 949-673-6585. $$$

CDM RESTAURANT

The team behind much-loved A Restaurant pounced on the defunct Crow Bar, retooling it with scraped light-wood floors, peacock-blue velvet booths, leather chairs, and a freestanding, always-busy bar. The kitchen takes on seasonal, contemporary

American fare. Think a trio of unexpectedly sublime pizzas. A killer Niman Ranch pork chop. 2325 E. Coast

Highway, 949-287-6600. $$$

EL CHOLO

It’s combo-plate heaven at this venerable local chain that started in L.A. in 1923. The Sonora-style enchiladas are topped with a fried egg. Green corn tamales have achieved cult status. 3520 E. Coast

Highway, 949-777-6137. See Anaheim Hills and La

Habra locations. $

FARMHOUSE AT ROGER’S GARDENS

This beguiling patio is chef-owner Rich Mead’s fourth and busiest enterprise yet, an inspired collaboration between a farmer’s dream chef and

O.C.’s iconic outdoor lifestyle retailer. The restaurant-gazebo seats 120 with rustic style, making this the fresh favorite for dates and celebrations. Mead’s

seasonal menu shifts often to reflect his passion for local family farms and ranches. Craft cocktails have a farmers market tilt, and a nascent cheese program rounds out the ever-changing feast. 2301 San Joaquin Hills Road, 949-640-1415. $$$

FIVE CROWNS

O.C.’s beloved, vine-covered, fine-dining landmark of 1965 stays current thanks to a refreshed menu by executive chef Alejandra Padilla (formerly with

Hillstone and Patina groups). Foodies thrill to foie gras brûlée and roast goose with wild grains, but sumptuous feasts of prime rib retain a hallowed spot on the carte at this Lawry’s-owned institution.

As always, service is polished and accommodating.

Leave room for the righteous sundae made with C.C.

Brown’s hot fudge, an old Hollywood marvel. 3801

E. Coast Highway, 949-760-0331. Dinner only. $$$

QUIET WOMAN

Perpetually packed with locals for decades, the

Q-Dub (as it’s known) pours mean drinks and notable wines by the glass, and keeps a teensy kitchen busy cranking out more-than-decent American grub such as filet mignon sliders and crab cakes, at prices that reflect the ZIP code. Most nights, a house band cranks up the decibels and enlivens the vibe. 3224 E. Coast Highway, 949-640-7440. $$

SIDEDOOR

Nested within the landmark Lawry’s Five Crowns, this gastropub welcomes come-asyou-are diners with a changing daily menu of imaginative small plates, seasonal soups, prime rib sandwiches, potpies, and desserts. Don’t miss the charcuterie station with choice cured meats and artisanal cheeses. Always interesting wines by the glass, craft beers, and signature cocktails boost the inviting room’s jolly British vibe. 3801 E. Coast

Highway, 949-717-4322. $$

TACKLE BOX

Pretty little Corona del Mar State Beach has a yearround chow counter, thanks to Pasadena native and chef-owner Brian Huskey, a veteran of “Top Chef” season 11. Look for an affordable menu of daytime eats that includes avocado-smoked salmon tartine, chilaquiles with black beans, and even an ace Buffalo cauliflower for beach body vegetarians. Weekend lunch includes star Maine lobster roll on squid ink bun. No booze, but there’s always a house-made agua fresca. 3029 Shore Ave., 949-723-0502. $

COSTA MESA [ SEE ALSO SOUTH COAST METRO ] 2145

Santa Ana native and Pizzeria Ortica veteran Eduardo Salcedo brings an artisan mindset and Japanese aesthetic to this Neapolitan-style pizza joint in a cleverly repurposed auto shop. Aromas of almondwood fire whet the appetite for his finely crafted pies and imaginative toasts on house-baked shokupan, Japan’s beloved breakfast loaf. Sit at the white marble bar or under umbrellas on the patio to enjoy bresaola and burrata salad with pickled fennel, or hyper-tender octopus with diced potato, charred scallions, and squid ink mayo. Star dessert: horchata tiramisu. 2145 Placentia Ave., 949-873-5853. $$

ARC

The welcoming lair features a 15-seat bar overlooking the open kitchen and hard-working oven. It’s an audacious concept that lures a varied, loyal crowd.

Winners include roasted pork cheek, a gorgeous wedge salad, and unique steak cuts. The pizza boutique serves posh pies topped with the likes of blue cheese, short rib, and basil, or roast duck, romesco, and olives. 3321 Hyland Ave., 949-500-5561. $$$

BOATHOUSE COLLECTIVE

This quirky hang is a restaurant and private-event venue from local artist Clayton Peterson. A pastiche of upcycled shipping containers and post-andbeam construction, the space is also indoor-outdoor, with frequent live music by local and touring acts.

Mathieu Royer is executive chef, cooking a tight and ever-changing menu of eclectic fare that’s in sync with this oddball shop. Don’t miss the savory burger.

Terrific craft cocktails ensure a mixed crowd. 1640

Pomona Ave., 949-646-3176. $$

DESCANSO

Descanso’s novel twist is the elevation of the taquero to center stage. Inspired by the dynamic street foods of Mexico City, owner Rob Arellano seats diners right at the plancha grill to watch their tacos sizzled with pizazz. Happy hour is particularly tempting if you can scoot in midweek, from 3 to 6 p.m. 1555 Adams Ave., 714-486-3798. $$

HABANA

Flickering candles light the way through a highceilinged dining room, convivial bar, and lush patio at The Lab’s enduring Cuban hang for date nights and late nights. Most of the fare sticks solidly to classics, such as roast chicken and ropa vieja, but the appetizer side is loaded with winners. Updates include a lavish, all-you-can-eat brunch with live island music and an array of delicious baked goodies.

Intimate confines make reservations a smart move. 2930 Bristol St., 714-556-0176. See Irvine location. $$$

IZAKAYA HACHI

A handsome, modern izakaya from the owners of Manpuku, Hachi is a boisterous, convivial gem.

The charcoal-grilled skewers shine, including the chicken meatball and chicken thigh. Expect a little bit of everything here: gloriously marbled beef, fresh oysters, fried chicken, and unique pressed sushi. 3033 Bristol St., 657-231-6566. Dinner only. $

STEM PROGRAM

THE MAYOR’S TABLE PACIFIC PUB & KITCHEN

Finding the right glass for a new cocktail is always a priority, but the Cocktails From the Kitchen concept at The Mayor’s Table turns that around. According to chef-partner and mixologist Riley Huddleston, the vessels inspire the recipes. A pear-shaped glass, for instance, begets a pear-based cocktail with caramel smoke in its narrow top. Each of the six cocktails is fascinating; each is prep- and labor-intensive, re ected in the prices ($18 to $26). Perhaps the most captivating is the Blowfish. The tropical concoction uses clarified pineapple juice, Flor de Cana white rum, banana-peel lactic syrup, fermented pineapple juice, and cardamom-infused Aperol. The syrup takes several hours to make, and the fermented pineapple juice takes seven to 10 days. It’s served in delicate stemware from Spain that stunningly replicates a blowfish. Lido House, 3300 Newport Blvd., Newport Beach, 949-662-6160, lidohousehotel.com—BENJAMIN EPSTEIN

MESA

At this high-style hipster hang with a retractable roof, expect shareable dishes that play by the seasons and don’t shy away from intense flavors. Highlights include mussels sizzled in cast iron and fried cicchetti olives. An interesting, value-packed wine list beckons, as do inspired artisan cocktails. 725

Baker St., 714-557-6700. $$$ OLD VINE KITCHEN & BAR

Popular for its brunch-type fare in a town rife with competing options, this charming nook has upgraded with a larger space. Foodies rave about urbane dishes, many with an Italian accent. Think barbecue pork omelet by day, seasonal tasting menu by night. Chef-owner Mark McDonald likes to pair his dinners with interesting wine flights from the world over, and he regularly leads culinary excursions to southern Italy. 2937 Bristol St., 714-545-1411. $$

TACO MARÍA

Every dish is a marvel of deeply considered modern Cal-Mex cuisine from chef-owner and O.C. native Carlos Salgado, who parked his esteemed food truck enterprise for this site. Even the stripped-down setting draws all attention to the food. Dinners are four-course prix fixe affairs, with thoughtful wine pairings. Lunch—when the tacos appear—is a more laid-back and affordable way to sample the refined slant that snagged Salgado a Michelin star and several James Beard nominations for chef awards. 3313 Hyland Ave., 714-538-8444. Beer and wine. $$$

DINING NEWS

For the latest O.C. dining news, follow our coverage at orangecoast.com.

DANA POINT

GLASSPAR

Now an improv market offering the primo seafood typically sold to coastal resorts, Glasspar launched as a classic seafooder, oyster bar, and tap room.

Veteran top toque and local Rob Wilson helms his dream retool of the old Mahe site, paused for dining but open for supporting the community with ultra-fresh goods and his five-star tips for serving seafood at home. A tight focus on top-shelf cocktails is sure to be much appreciated once groups gather within toasting distance. 24961 Dana Point

Harbor Drive, 949-240-6243. $$$

RAYA

Steve Wan is executive sous chef at this posh-butrelaxed dining room conceived by celeb chef Richard Sandoval. After the eye-popping bluff-top ocean view, Pan-Latin seafood dominates the experience.

But prepare to see many Asian touches on the modern menu, in creative dishes that masterfully bend ethnic borders. The Ritz-Carlton, 1 Ritz-Carlton Drive, 949-240-2000. $$$

WATERMAN’S HARBOR

A beacon of new on Dana Point Harbor’s salt-worn embarcadero, this sleek seafooder offers two floors with scenic views of the breakwater action, including a big, breezy patio shaded from the sun’s rays on those high UV days. Fresh oysters are the $1.50 star of happy hour. 34661 Golden Lantern St., 949764-3474. $$$

FOUNTAIN VALLEY

THE RECESS ROOM

This city’s first gastropub exists because five childhood pals needed a local haunt after their basketball game. Food and booze enjoy equal amounts of love at this cleverly retooled former

Coco’s. Expect small-batch, offbeat brews and ace craft cocktails, plus lots of rich, shareable noshes.

Think tender octopus with toasted quinoa for contrast, luscious pork cheeks confit, and lime-yuzu panna cotta. 18380 Brookhurst St., 714-377-0398. $$$

FULLERTON

THE CELLAR

Downtown Fullerton’s abiding choice for classy, oldschool French dining is a North County staple for romantic meals, thanks to an underground room that’s ornate, yet cozy. Expect swanky choices such as chateaubriand, and a fine dark chocolate souffle. 305 N. Harbor Blvd., 714-525-5682. $$$

EARLY BIRD

Imaginative breakfasts washed down with in-season, single-origin coffee make this humble hang

Fullerton’s sleeper for the foodie crowd. Look for duck confit hash, buckwheat flapjacks with ginger-citrus syrup, or trendy hits like buttermilk fried chicken and waffles, complete with house gravy. 1000 E. Bastanchury Road, 714-529-4100. Breakfast and lunch. $$

HOPSCOTCH TAVERN

The affable downtown watering hole is unabashedly keen on booze. Artisan cocktails that feature 140 whiskeys and a choice of 80 craft beers are the axis for a limited menu big on brawny proteins, savory carbs, and fried finger foods. The clever revamp of

Fullerton’s 1918 Mission Revival-style Pacific Electric

Railway Station feels accessible and low-key. 136 E.

Commonwealth Ave., 714-871-2222. $$ KHAN SAAB DESI CRAFT KITCHEN

Born in the crucible of the pandemic, this halal bistro serves flavorful kabobs, curries, and street snacks alongside wood-fired Wagyu steaks. Creator and executive chef Imran Ali Mookhi applies a Michelin mindset acquired after years in fine-dining kitchens.

Khan Saab has the best stocked alcohol-free bar in

O.C. 229 E. Commonwealth Ave., 714-853-1081. $$

SUMMIT HOUSE

Set high above Fullerton’s northern city limits, this imposing Tudor manor house offers a sparkling citylights view at night, though the attractive grounds are pretty by day, too. The American menu offers few surprises; British-style prime rib and oak-grilled

Skuna Bay salmon are reliable. Polished service brings back plenty of special-occasion diners. The cozy tavern bar is popular for light meals and happy hour. 2000 E. Bastanchury Road, 714-671-4111. $$$

GARDEN GROVE

NOVA KITCHEN & BAR

This glamorous sleeper is a terrific dinner choice for distinctive fare that nods to Japan,

Korea, and China. The handsome 35-seat lanai covered patio is beyond fine. Executive chef Abel Vargas oversees a sizable menu that also includes showy sushi and top shelf cocktails. Do consider the tuna tartare, corn tempura, or coriander-braised short rib. Genteel service. 12361 Chapman Ave., 714696-0888. $$$

HUNTINGTON BEACH

FISH CAMP

From Sam King of the King’s Fish House fleet comes this overtly dressed-down seafood cantina at the northern edge of coastal O.C. Order the day’s catch from the counter and await delivery of straightforward classics such as pristine oysters, ahi poke,

Idaho trout, and crab galore. Sandwiches, skewers, and worthy clam chowders also recommended. 16600 Pacific Coast Highway, 562-592-2267. $$

LSXO

Step back in time to colonial Vietnam at this vest-pocket hideaway with only 28 seats.

Chef-owner Tin Vuong amplifies his successful L.A.

Little Sister act with a sultry setting (tucked inside of huge Bluegold) and uncompromising Viet fare inspired by his roots and frequent travels to South

Vietnam. Nifty craft cocktails and luxe dishes such as salt and pepper lobster make a good date night, but we also like the street-style noshes such as prawn crepes and lemongrass skewers. Fair warning: The uncensored rap soundtrack is not for all ears. 21016 Pacific Coast Highway, 714-374-0083. $$

SESSIONS

Surf City is the ideal spot for the second “West Coast deli,” this time across from the sand. Terrific sandwiches that eat like a meal for two are gourmet creations, meticulous stacks of top ingredients with exacting ratios, so every ’wich is scrumptious to the last bite. From-scratch soups, sides, and dressings. A surfer ethos extends to hearty breakfasts featuring Kéan coffee and house-made granola. 414 Pacific

Coast Highway, 714-594-3899. Beer and wine. See

Irvine and Newport Beach locations. Fourth location (not reviewed) in Newport Beach at 101 Newport Center Drive. $

WATERTABLE

Here’s a rare bird, a hotel restaurant in a tourist resort that the locals love for lots of reasons. Progressive takes on global dishes, tip-top craft cocktails, copious happy hours, and the steady hand of longtime Chef Manfred Lassahn keep this venue on point. We return just for the white cheddar and thyme biscuits with seasonal butter. The new morning lineup of health-first bowls, smoothies, and toasts caters to beach runners. Hyatt Regency, 21500

Pacific Coast Highway, 714-845-4776. $$$

IRVINE

ANDREI’S CONSCIOUS CUISINE & COCKTAILS

Irvine’s ever-slicker business zone is a good home for this classy, top-floor, New American choice for power diners, office pals, and couples. Modern craft cocktails enhance a menu that blends California ingredients with global flavors. Top toque Porfiro

Gomez’s menu retains favorites such as the beef spring rolls, watermelon salad, and Duroc pork

T-bone. Happy hour is a standout in a crowded field. 2607 Main St., 949-387-8887. $$

43

YEARS

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Annual Halloween Open House September 12, 10am to 4pm

September 24, 2am to 5:30pm

Come enjoy our monthly happy hour with wine, charcuterie & shopping at Charleston Provence Boutique! Please RSVP @ 714-884-3142. enjoy a 15% discount Tina Marie’s | Sept. 16 from 3-6pm Trunk Show with hobo handbags & Fall fashions from 3 clothing lines. join us for drinks and appetizers

RESTAURANTS

17th Street Grill 714.730.0003 Belacan Grill

MALAYSIAN BISTRO 714.505.9908 The Coffee Grinder 714.838.0960 The Crab Cooker 714.573.1077 El Torito 714.838.6630 Zov’s Bakery & Café 714.838.8855 Zov’s Bistro 714.838.8855

SERVICES

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OPTOMETRY 714.838.9664 Fancy Nails 714.730.4722 Fitness Fixe 714.838.5751 Fusion Hair 714.838.6000 Hair Industry The Salon 714.731.2530 Rebecca Pelletier Interiors 714.508.8581 Studio J

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FASHION

A Perfect Fit

FINE LINGERIE 714.665.5994 Frank’s Menswear 714.730.5945 La Galleria

ELEGANT WOMEN’S APPAREL 714.544.6340 Tina Marie’s

BRIGHTON COLLECTION 714.505.1676 Touch of Class Refi nery 714.734.7749

SPECIALTY

AA Jewel Box 714.669.9966 Charleston Provence

BOUTIQUE 714.508.8581 Chemers Gallery 714.731.5432 Deckers Fine Gifts 714.832.7074 Discoveries

CONTEMPORARY CRAFTS 714.544.6206 H. Foster & Jackson 714.544.4635 Justin Porterfi eld, Ltd. 714.544.5223

enderlecenter.com | 714.731.2911

SEVENTEENTH STREET & YORBA ST., TUSTIN — 55 FRWY. NORTH OR SOUTH, EXIT SEVENTEENTH ST. EAST

CHA CHA’S LATIN KITCHEN

This addition to the restaurant family owned by industry vets Don Myers and Peter Serantoni is an inviting casa with a menu of modern Mexican fare boosted by commendable new dishes that blur some borders—sopes, empanadas, aguachile, and pozole to name a few. The indoor-meets-outdoor patio by designer Thomas Schoos is a fine upgrade of the Brea flagship. Weekly specials add value and excitement. Impressive tequila menu. 13126 Jamboree Road, 714-408-7819. See Brea location. $$

CUCINA ENOTECA

This 285-seat operation from San Diego’s Urban

Kitchen Group offers two sprawling patios and a huge, lively dining room with bar and wine minimarket, and the scene oozes chic with scads of handmade furnishings for sale. The Cal-Ital menu is equally large and inventive, from spreads in Mason jars and salumi platters to handmade pastas. Particularly good for large parties. 532 Spectrum Center

Drive, 949-861-2222. See Newport Beach location. $$

HABANA

We waited 22 years for this glamorous Habana sibling, and it was worth it—a sprawling 300-seat compound that co-opts Cuba’s frozen-in-time splendor.

A roomy patio open to the sky is made intimate by high walls and lots of beautiful props and vignettes, with alcoves dedicated to house pastries and coffees. Despite the impressive scale, the menu hews tightly to the focused offerings at its Costa Mesa original. 708 Spectrum Center Drive, 949-419-0100.

See Costa Mesa location. $$$

JA JIAOZI

It’s all about handmade dumplings here. They grace every table, anchoring meals rounded out with other hot and cold dishes. First-timers, ask your able server for help. Top picks include steamed

Flaming Hot and boiled Signature jiaozi, along with refreshing tofu-skin salad. Top-notch shrimp fried rice is a winner, too. Watch the masters at work from a five-seat bar. 13776 Jamboree Road, Irvine, 714-786-8999. $$

MEIZHOU DONGPO

Good seating, engaged service, and touches of elegance elevate this classy Sichuan dining room, a retool of a 6,000-square-foot Marie Callender’s in bustling Culver Plaza. Access is easy, and plentiful parking is free. Beyond that, it’s all about the Beijing-style roast duck (whole, $77; half, $40), meticulously sliced into petals of tender meat crowned with crackling amber skin, for rolling into thin crepes.

Weeks of aging, drying, and lacquering coax out heady flavors. Spicy values include dan dan noodles and country-style sliced pork. 15363 Culver Drive, 949-433-5686. Beer and wine. $$$

PORCH & SWING

BEST NEW RESTAURANT 2021

This delightful indie serves a “taste of Charleston” starring original riffs on American classics and cocktails by Andrew Parish. Must-try dishes include roasted pork jowl over grits, amazing creamless creamed corn, and gorgeous salads. House-baked breads are a strength, too. 2010 Main St., 949-418-7988. $$

PUESTO

San Diego’s high-profile taqueria has two Irvine options. Delectable tacos are the main event, elevated by crispy griddled Oaxacan cheese, and tortillas made by hand from organic, non-GMO, blue corn masa. The cheese is especially brilliant on vegetarian tacos. Ask about the monthly taco Beet and goat cheese tortellini at Porch & Swing

special. The Park Place venue is intimate and colorsplashed. Park Place, 3311 Michelson Drive, 949-6087272; Los Olivos Marketplace, 8577 Irvine Center Drive, 949-608-9990. New locations (not yet reviewed) at

Bella Terra in Huntington Beach and The Westin

Anaheim Resort. $$

SESSIONS

No. 3 is a charm for O.C.’s indie chainlet of “West

Coast” delis. Expect terrific sandwiches that eat like a meal for two, gourmet creations that are meticulous stacks of top ingredients with exacting ratios, so every ’wich is scrumptious. From-scratch soups, sides, and dressings. A beguiling lakeside setting beckons for lazy breakfasts featuring Kéan coffee and house-made granola. 4736 Barranca Parkway, 949-333-3949. See Huntington Beach and Newport

Beach locations. Fourth location (not reviewed) at 101 Newport Center Drive. $

SAM WOO RESTAURANT

Many don’t know this reasonably priced, no-frills place is not named after someone called Sam Woo— the term actually refers to the Chinese notion of harmony. Yanked-from-the-tank seafood is a specialty, as are dim sum and Hong Kong noodle dishes.

Service is reliably speedy and brusque. For faster carry-out meals, try the express buffet next door. 15333 Culver Drive, 949-262-0688. $

TACO ROSA

With agave-sweetened margaritas, daily aguas frescas, and house-made churros, these flagships of the

Taco Mesa chain take fresh Mex to the max. Try the

Oaxacan enchiladas. 13792 Jamboree Road, 714-5056080. See Newport Beach location. $$

TWO LEFT FORKS

This inland sibling has the strong appeal of its now-closed original Dana Point location, except the coastal site has been swapped for a roomier space with easy parking, as well as lunch and weekend brunch service. Come here for bananas

Foster pancakes or an open-face sandwich with burrata, prosciutto, avocado, and eggs your way.

Popular for happy hour. 6511 Quail Hill Parkway, 949-387-6700. $$$

LAGUNA BEACH

BROADWAY BY AMAR SANTANA

Boy wonder chef Amar Santana and industry vet Ahmed Labbate decamped Charlie

Palmer to create this sexy urban bistro. Fans old and new keep the tight quarters humming to the backdrop of an open kitchen and vintage flicks playing on the flat-screen over the expansive bar.

Santana’s dishes are opulent and intense. The wine list includes many notable half-bottles. 328 Glenneyre St., 949-715-8234. $$$

CARMELITA’S KITCHEN DE MEXICO

This is the boutique version of Rancho Santa Margarita’s sprawling shop, but both offer top-notch

Cal-Mex fare. Expect Prime beef in the steak tampiqueña, and Kurobuta pork in the wonderful carnitas. Don’t miss costillitas—baby back ribs topped with fried onions. Outstanding margaritas.

Warm, spiffy service. 217 Broadway St., 949-715-7829.

See Rancho Santa Margarita location. $$

THE DRAKE

The grown-ups sipping cocktails are here for a full serving of primo live music paired with the cuisine of Paul Gstrein (ex of

Bistango and Bayside). Laguna’s own Alec Glasser prevails in creating a dashing joint where the musicians and the kitchen have serious chops. Diners dig into Euro-inflected dishes (try the lamb lollipops, the Alpine Melt, the chile-lime swordfish). The room generates a superlative groove. 2894 S. Coast

Highway, 949-376-1000. $$$

DRIFTWOOD KITCHEN

With its gorgeous seaside panorama, this place perfectly illustrates the food-versus-view gamble.

Prudent choices on chef Rainer Schwarz’s seasonal menu include whole fried fish, an unusual entree pairing of butcher steak-pork belly, and tarts by pastry chef Rene Baez. Brunch items and craft cocktails also are good bets. 619 Sleepy Hollow

Lane, 949-715-7700. $$

LUMBERYARD

Veteran local restaurateur Cary Redfearn brought new life to this downtown landmark with a welcoming bar and comfort classics such as meatloaf and chicken potpie that lure tourists and villagers alike. Look for a solid happy hour. 384 Forest Ave., 949-715-3900. $$

NICK’S

Perched on Laguna’s prime stretch of Coast Highway, this inviting, urbane bar and grill lures grown-ups who prefer to skip the surfer grub scene in favor of tasty cocktails and a compact all-day menu of comfort classics with modern twists. Ace bets include the steakhouse salad and blackened halibut sandwich. Softly lit and cushily appointed, the open-air space boasts a sidewalk patio. Sociable service is notably polished. 440 S. Coast Highway, 949-3768595. See San Clemente location. $$

OLIVER’S OSTERIA

Wedged into an oddball canyon retail center, this tidy shop is chef-owner Erik De Marchi’s all-out defense of faithful fare inspired by his home turf of Italy’s Emilia-Romana region. Pastas are wondrous, but do wait to hear the daily specials that can include juicy lamb chops or crepes (crespelle) with porcini mushrooms in truffle-perfumed béchamel. Tight quarters make dining noisy when the room is full. And Oliver? He’s De Marchi’s first Superior Tree Care 9/3/03 11:35 AM Page 2 child, born on opening day. 853 Laguna Canyon Road, 949-715-0261. $$$

SAPPHIRE CELLAR CRAFT COOK

The latest incarnation of Laguna Beach’s historic Coast Highway venue is much better than it has to be, given its bulletproof location.

Upmarket, innovative American cuisine by executive chef Jared Cook includes irresistible weekend brunch waffles and Benedicts, classy lunch salads, and dinners that star fresh oysters and a splendid ribeye. On-site pantry for beach eats. 1200 South

Coast Highway, 949-715-9888. $$$

SELANNE STEAK TAVERN

Anaheim Ducks star Teemu Selanne cements his brand with this polished and popular steak joint on a venerated stretch of Coast Highway.

Prime, pricey beef rules the day on executive chef

Vince Terusa’s menu designed for a pro athlete’s appetite and fan base. We like the main floor’s easy, breezy tavern for terrific cocktails, the superlative burger, and world-class people watching. 1464 S.

Coast Highway, 949-715-9881. Dinner only. $$$

LAGUNA HILLS

IRONWOOD

The savvy team behind Vine, Sapphire, and Olea notches another hit with this dinner house in a zone with scant options. Executive chef Jared Cook’s modern, seasonal menu roams from delicate to hearty, but all dishes showcase his knack for upping the crave factor. Examples: chicken schnitzel with mushrooms, Zinfandel-braised lamb shank with mint yogurt. Terrific craft cocktails shift with the seasons.

On-point service from a gracious crew. 25250 La Paz

Road, 949-446-8772. Dinner only. $$$

LAGUNA NIGUEL

CALÓ KITCHEN + TEQUILA

NEW Chic and breezy as a Baja resort, this sprawling spot has its act together, luring local crowds for upscale Mexican classics. An unending flow of worthy margaritas keeps the white marble bar humming while the kitchen churns out well-executed shrimp ceviche, carnitas, combo plates, and short rib enchiladas. Huge portions, sharp service, and modern digs seal the deal. 28141

Crown Valley Parkway, 949-409-7380. $$$

HENDRIX

From the group behind Laguna Beach’s The Deck and Driftwood Kitchen, Hendrix features partner

Austrian-born Rainer Schwarz as executive chef. A showpiece rotisserie roasts plump chickens, porchetta, and lamb while basting potatoes in the catch bin with juices from the meats. Irresistible small plates include prosciutto fritters, Brussels sprouts with Marcona almonds, and chicken-fontina flatbread. 32431 Golden Lantern, 949-248-1912. $$

LA HABRA

EL CHOLO

It’s combo-plate heaven at this venerable local chain. The Sonora-style enchiladas are topped with olives and a fried egg. Green corn tamales have achieved cult status. This location oozes a family vibe. 840 E. Whittier Blvd., 562-691-4618. See Anaheim Hills and Corona del Mar locations. $

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LAKE FOREST

BRÜ GRILL & MARKET

Ambitious, with 245 seats, this suburban indie goes all in for craft and microbrews, memorable cocktails, and pub food: a killer artisan sausage platter,

Belgian-style mussels, and top-tier charcuterie.

Entrees can be hit or miss, though the bone-in pork chop is a triumph. Drinks and brews (35 on tap) outshine the wine list. The on-site market retails wine, cheese, and other menu items. 23730 El Toro

Road, 949-305-5757. $$

MISSION VIEJO

DUBLIN 4 GASTROPUB

Publicans Darren and Jean Coyle welcome a varied crowd to this chipper modern pub, designed to rival Dublin’s finest. Executive chef

David Shofner applies fine-dining cred and scratch cooking to a menu of new and old-school fare that sparkles. Don’t-miss items include premium cottage pies, a killer lamb burger, and anything with housecured meats. Upscale pricing and dapper surroundings prove this is not your frat brother’s

Irish pub. 26342 Oso Parkway, 949-582-0026. $$$

WINEWORKS FOR EVERYONE

This near-hidden pocket bistro is a top choice for wine-centric cuisine in South County. A retooled menu by chef David Shofner, who also helms the kitchen at Dublin 4 next door, brims with seasonal

California fare that flatters a wine list of West Coast and international bottles. Must-haves include sausage flatbread, and a killer cheese plate. 26342

Oso Parkway, 949-582-0026. Beer and wine. $$$

NEWPORT BEACH

A&O KITCHEN + BAR

A serious reboot of this fabled lounge—formerly

Duke’s—transforms this waterside venue into a gastropub with a newly youthful vibe. Expect all the usual share plates: battered fries, shishito peppers, bacon-wrapped dates, plus several hearty plates including a worthy Kobe burger with bacon mayo on a cheddar-bacon bun. Bold, neonautical decor plays off the “anchors and oceans” theme and brings the bay view to life. The water’s-edge patio is inviting for sunset drinks or gathering ’round the fire pit. Balboa Bay Resort, 1221 W. Coast Highway, 949-630-4285. $$

BAYSIDE

Bayside remains a go-to choice on many fronts. Nightly happy hour stars a winning small-plates menu that keeps the bar hopping.

Rotating artwork keeps the dining room ever fresh for re-laxed meals of debonair American fare. Long favored by the coastal set for jazzy brunches, insiders stop in Friday night for a legendary jam session in the bar. Prix fixe menus are a strength here. 900 Bayside Drive, 949-721-1222. $$$

BELLO BY SANDRO NARDONE

Previously of upmarket pizzeria Angelina’s, Sandro

Nardone flies solo with this molto moderno

Italiano overhaul of a sprawling spot. Nardone’s style is urbane, so expect no lasagna here. Instead, look for distinctive creations such as mortadella mousse canoli with liquid pineapple mustard. Crispy octopus with Calabrian vinaigrette is another crowd favorite. Cocktails show imagination, and the wine

list has some rare gems. Coming soon, Nardone’s take on hip patio brunching. 1200 Bison Ave., 949520-7191. $$$

BLUEWATER GRILL SEAFOOD RESTAURANT

Classic rich chowder, grilled trout, and fried clams share the daily menu with modern dishes such as zesty cioppino and mahi-mahi sliders with jalapeno aioli. A seasoned crew smoothly shifts from icy platters of just-shucked oysters, to salt-and-pepper shrimp. The menu boasts seasonal specials as well. 630 Lido Park Drive, 949-675-3474. $$

CUCINA ENOTECA

Chef de cuisine Cesar Sarmiento helms the busy scratch kitchen of this Fashion Island sibling. The sprawling, lively space with its alluring garden room, hip cocktails, and fun wines supports inventive takes on classic pastas, cured meats, and creative breads. Like the Irvine location, this venue offers a retail wine boutique and lots of quirky-chic furnishings for sale. Daily happy hour is a deal for tony

Fashion Island. 951 Newport Center Drive, 949-7061416. See Irvine location. $$

FABLE & SPIRIT

BEST NEW RESTAURANT 2020

From the family behind Dublin 4 comes this lush addition to the area across from Lido Marina Village. But don’t assume this is an Irish pub that mimics the other. This plush room features inventive fare that’s a mashup of American and Irish. Here you start with

Hares Looking at You, a cocktail starring Wheatley vodka and carrot juice, move on to the refined beet agnolotti with chèvre foam, or share a woodfired duck confit pizetta. Yes, the fish and chips are superior, but so is the rabbit fricassee. 3441 Via Lido, 949-409-9913. $$$

LIDO BOTTLE WORKS

This handsome waterfront venue sounds like a liquor store, but it’s a sleeper of a full-service restaurant hiding in the swanky Lido Marina Village development. Hyper-seasonal and prettily plated, notable creations include Dory Fleet catches of the day, opulent Iberico secreto pork, a solid burger, and one glorious chocolate mousse. 3408 Via Oporto, 949-529-2784. $$

OLEA CELLAR CRAFT COOK

Eastside’s dapper dinner house is the latest offering from the polished crew behind sister restaurants Ironwood and Vine, a homegrown hospitality group. Fans of chef Jared Cook will recognize some familiar dishes from his sibling shops, but there are exclusives here, too. We’re mad for the opulent duck liver terrine with bacon and bourbon, and those fine oysters baked with blue crab in tarragon butter. Add top-notch cocktails and 50 notable wines by the glass. 2001 Westcliff Drive,

Newport Beach, 949-287-6807. Dinner nightly. $$$

SESSIONS

This busy “West Coast deli” on the peninsula crafts terrific sandwiches that eat like a meal for two.

Gourmet creations with kooky names are meticulous stacks of top ingredients with exacting ratios, so every ’wich is scrumptious to the last bite. A surfer vibe extends to hearty breakfasts at 7 a.m. daily, starring Golden State Coffee Roaster coffee. 2823

Newport Blvd., 949-220-9001. Beer and wine. See

Huntington Beach and Irvine locations. Fourth location (not reviewed) in Newport Beach at 101 Newport Center Drive. $

SHOREBIRD

Hidden inside the Vue Newport enclave, Shorebird is invisible until you enter the airy split-level space dominated by its waterfront view.

Expect contemporary American fare plus familiar side detours for sushi and tacos. Best bets include

Duroc pork chop, lump crab cakes, avocado fries. 2220 Newport Blvd., 949-287-6627. $$$

SUSHI ROKU

The sixth location of this Cal-Japanese concept makes a huge impression with striking decor and vibrant cuisine. If the dining room’s busier than the sushi bar, blame the thoughtfully designed and executed menu, notably dishes such as fluke kumquat sashimi, blue crab tartare, Prime ribeye Japonais, and the deconstructed s’mores. The creative sushi deserves a night all its own, and the bar and patio offer their own vibes. Look for scores of noodles, salads, and bento boxes at lunch, and sakes. 327 Newport Center Drive, 949-706-3622. $$$

TACO ROSA

With agave-sweetened margaritas and house-made churros, these flagships of the Taco Mesa chain take fresh Mex to the max. 2632 San Miguel Road, 949720-0980. See Irvine location. $$

TAVERN HOUSE KITCHEN + BAR

David Wilhelm, the county’s restaurant laureate, returns to Newport Beach with this fetching and welcome rehab of a waterside venue. Menus read like a playlist of Wilhelm’s champion recipes tweaked for 2020. Stand out new dishes for dinner and weekend brunch include red snapper

Veracruzana, Buddha bowls, sirloin meatballs, and fried chicken with malted waffles. Look for a natty pre-sunset happy hour on weekdays. 333 Bayside

Drive, 949-673-8464. $$

THE WINERY RESTAURANT & WINE BAR

The snazzy venue overlooks the yacht and Duffy boat traffic in Newport Harbor, flaunting its waterfront charms with 180-degree views from two floors plus a cigar patio. The space sizzles with bonhomie— and diners who love their surf, turf, wine, and VIP treatment. Expect cosseting service from partners JC

Clow, William Lewis, and executive chef Yvon Goetz.

Best bets include Goetz’s signature Alsatian “pizza” and the Colorado buffalo carpaccio. 3131 W. Coast

Highway, 949-999-6622. See Tustin location. $$$

NEWPORT COAST

MARCHÉ MODERNE

BEST NEW RESTAURANT 2018

The finest French bistro south of Beverly Hills is reborn in coastal digs that express a fresh chapter for the redoubtable Florent and Amelia Marneau. Added space and oversize windows let the outdoors into a room that oozes grace and sophistication. Beloved dishes such as Spanish octopus with chorizo return to the dinner menu alongside new creations from the open kitchen—think crispy suckling pigs and beans, a three-day cassoulet. Amelia’s new desserts include ravishing Napoleons served weekends only. 7862 E. Pacific Coast Highway, 714-434-7900. $$$

WASA SUSHI

James Hamamori cemented his stardom at this striking shopping-center spot brimming with devotees of modern spins on sushi. Renowned for such fare as salmon with ginger sauce and fresh orange. Exceptional selection of salads, appetizers,

and entrees as well. 1344 Bison Ave., 949-760-1511.

Beer and wine. $$

ZOV’S NEWPORT COAST

This attractive shopping center offshoot of the popular original Zov’s in Tustin is a go-to patio cafe that lures locals with creative Cal-Med dishes such as

Moroccan salmon salad, spiced lamb burger, and pomegranate baby back ribs. Desserts are a standout, as are cocktails and chic mezze starters. 21123

Newport Coast Drive, 949-760-9687. See Tustin location. $$$

ORANGE

BOSSCAT KITCHEN & LIBATIONS

Old Towne’s newest gastropub thoughtfully transforms a historic corner into a lively whiskey bar serving worthy eats with a southern accent. Look for parm-crusted meatloaf, gulf shrimp and grits, and a yowza burger. The service is sharp. Sunday brunch and a robust midweek happy hour. 118 W.

Chapman Ave., 714-716-1599. $$

GABBI’S MEXICAN KITCHEN

Gabbi Patrick grew up working in her family’s Mexican restaurants, then studied at the Greystone Culinary Academy in Napa. The menu reveals her formal training as it embraces her family’s background.

With items such as gorditas al pastor (masa cakes with Kurobuta pork belly and a pineapple-onion relish), Patrick’s plates celebrate simple, honest flavors. 141 S. Glassell St., 714-633-3038. $$

HAVEN CRAFT KITCHEN + BAR

A serious contender in the gastropub category, this popular storefront in Old Towne lures a mixed crowd of brew fanatics and foodies, thanks to a rich roster of esoteric suds and polished pub grub from chef Craig Brady. Dishes such as a braised lamb pappardelle and coriander roasted baby carrots.

Lunch and early dinner are options for bypassing the crowd. 190 S. Glassell St., 714-221-0680. $$

PLACENTIA

EL FAROLITO

Often packed tighter than a taquito, this is a go-to favorite for traditional border fare, served fast and friendly. Pass the wait with an icy Negra Modelo— regulars know to grab one from the cooler out front.

Huevos dishes—rancheros, machaca, chorizo—are popular on weekend mornings, and served until 3 p.m. 201 S. Bradford Ave., 714-993-7880. $

RANCHO SANTA MARGARITA

THE BLIND PIG KITCHEN & BAR

Lakeside seats, terrific craft cocktails, and daring fare by young chef Karl Pfleider earn local love for this rare gastro-canteen in Rancho

Santa Margarita. Midweek tapas start at 3 p.m. with goodies such as steak tartare with pistachio XO sauce. But wait until 5 p.m. for the mahi-mahi with paprika mole. 31431 Santa Margarita Parkway, 949888-0072. Second location (not reviewed) in Yorba

Linda, 4975 Lakeview Ave., 714-485-2593. $$

CARMELITA’S KITCHEN

This lakefront sprawler offers top-notch Cal-Mex fare from the culinary vision of owner Clemente

Heredia Jr., a third-generation operator. Expect

Prime beef in the steak tampiqueña, Kurobuta pork in the wonderful carnitas. Outstanding margaritas.

Warm, spiffy service. 31441 Santa Margarita Parkway, 949-709-7600. See Laguna Beach location. $$

SAN CLEMENTE

MRK PUBLIC

Three chefs, two of them former co-chefs at Tabu

Grill in Laguna Beach, transform a fast-casual fixture into a winning spot that offers craft beers, all $5, and a tightly edited menu of elevated favorites, notably

Tuscan toast, and a terrific fried chicken sandwich.

The rear counter offers a distant ocean view. 1402

S. El Camino Real, 949-441-7621. Beer and wine. $

NICK’S

On a prime stretch of vintage Avenida del Mar, this inviting bar and grill is just urbane enough to lure grown-ups who prefer to skip the surfer grub scene in favor of crackerjack cocktails and a compact allday menu of comfort classics with a modern twist.

Ace bets include the steakhouse salad and blackened fish sandwich. And there’s a sidewalk patio with fireplace. Sociable service is notably polished. 213 Avenida del Mar, 949-481-2200. See Laguna

Beach location. $$

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SOUTH OF NICK’S

From the festive boxes of Chiclets at the reception station to scores of fine-sipping tequilas at the roomy bar, this beach burg shop from the team behind Nick’s is all about hospitality and scratch cooking. Cocktails are special, so are desserts, but don’t miss the feel-good dishes such as mini-sopes, sea bass in poblano cream, and pork chile verde. 110

N. El Camino Real, 949-481-4545. Second location (not reviewed) in Laguna Beach at 540 S. Coast Hwy., 949-376-8595. $$

VINE

A decor revamp of the cozy dining room and a menu overhaul add up to impressive new heights, because owner Russ Bendel Jr. wisely gives sauce monster and executive chef Jared Cook full reign over the kitchen. Look for killer duck wings and nightly specials that tend to sell out. A garden out back only sweetens this beach burg gem. 211 N. El Camino Real, 949-361-2079. Dinner only. $$$

SAN JUAN CAPISTRANO

MAYFIELD

Modern, hyper-seasonal California fare meets the timeless food ways of the Middle

East at this ingenious newcomer. Breezy two-story digs include a pretty quartz bar for leading-edge cocktails. Do try fried eggplant, lamb meatballs, and shareable dips. By day, look for indulgent brunch dishes. 31761 Camino Capistrano, 949-218-5140. $$$

RAMOS HOUSE CAFÉ

A sweet adobe hiding in the historic Los Rios district,

Ramos House Café turns out some of South County’s most delectable daytime fare. Contemporary and clever American breakfasts and lunches (brunch on weekends) have a distinct Southern accent that fits the rustic, alfresco setting with passing trains as soundtrack. Look for ethereal biscuits and crab hash. 31752 Los Rios St., 949-443-1342. $$

SANTA ANA [ SEE ALSO SOUTH COAST METRO ] BENCHMARK

Quirky but capable, this Santa Ana spot goes all-in for alfresco, luring diners with a tree-shaded setting on a vintage residential street. The menu of American bistro dishes is just big enough to have wide appeal.

Happy hour and weekend brunch have a backyard party vibe. Dinner surprises with upmarket dishes, say a lovely bavette steak atop celery root purée. 601 E. Santa Ana Blvd., 714-480-0225. $$

CHATO’S BAR AND GRILL

This Mexican canteen offers less familiar dishes— corundas, roast quail—alongside comfort favorites such as ceviche and chilaquiles. Michoacán native

Sergio Ortega, previously of Descanso, is executive chef. Inaugural meals include dinner nightly and

Sunday brunch. 400 N. Broadway, 714-852-3256. $$

MIX MIX KITCHEN BAR

BEST NEW RESTAURANT 2017

DTSA got a major dining upgrade with this winner from chef-owner Ross Pangilinan. A veteran of highend dining, his major culinary chops rule the day but not the tab at his breakout venue with zero pretension and multicourse meals packed with finesse. Think prosciutto toast with quince honey, and seared foie gras with al pastor spices and charred pineapple. Spiffy craft cocktails, too. 300 N. Main St., 714-836-5158. Dinner only. $$$ Louis XV dessert at Knife Pleat

SEAL BEACH

320 MAIN

Seal Beach’s dark-but-cheerful indie venue boasts a long-respected cocktail program, and new chef

James Miller complements those craft cocktails with a menu of rich, high-flavor fare. Think bone marrow

Wellington, and for brunch, fried chicken Benedict.

Fun day-of-the-week specials include Tiki Tuesday and Wine and Whiskey Wednesday. 320 Main St., 562-799-6246. $$

MAHÉ

Mahé is a hot spot for locals. Entertainment and a lively bar are the backdrops for sushi, steaks, and seafood. The inventive rolls, such as the salmon bomb, will make you a regular. 1400 Pacific Coast

Highway, 562-431-3022. Dinner only. $$$

SOUTH COAST METRO

ANQI

Tight focus on the fare makes dining at this South Coast Plaza hot spot better than ever.

Executive chef Ron Lee makes delicious harmony with matriarch master chef Helene An’s spicy beef tacos and roasted New Zealand lamb rack, as well as her fabled roast crab (Tuesday only). Zen chic decor turns heads. Drinks at the dramatic bar dazzle the cocktail crowd, but try Sunday brunch for a more kickback experience, or snag a padded stool at the adjacent noodle bar. 3333 Bristol St., 714-557-5679. $$$

ANTONELLO RISTORANTE

For more than three decades South Coast Plaza’s

Italian grand diva has reigned for ultrafine feasting on authentic, traditional dishes backed by a savvy wine selection deep with Italian stars. House-made pastas, breads, and desserts. The restaurant’s aura of privilege is underscored by pampering service for VIPs. A full-service wine bar is the latest update. 3800 South Plaza Drive, 714-751-7153. $$$

THE HALL GLOBAL EATERY

Upscale yet low key, full service Crudo gets a bit lost amid The Hall’s 10,000-square-foot wonderland of casual offerings, but do search out the latest menu from Amar Santana. It stars seasonal riffs on crudos exploding with worldly flavors plus endless choices from the raw bar, charcuterie list, and don’t-miss intricate cocktails by bar star Michael Rooney. Patio seating highly recommended. 3333 Bristol St., 714-515-5544. $$

DIN TAI FUNG

Fans happily endure long waits to satisfy their craving for xiao long bao, juicy pork dumplings, hand-pleated with care. Bowls of noodles, rice, and stacks of bamboo steamers crowd tables as diners blend their own aromatic dipping sauce from rich soy, black vinegar, and shreds of fresh ginger. 3333

Bristol St., 714-549-3388. $$

HAMAMORI

Sushi master artist James Hamamori applies persuasive talent to this South Coast Plaza penthouse dazzler of a sushi bar. Son Jim is now behind the bar, too, but this heavenly venue also shows off non-sushi dishes such as uni floating in edamame puree, Kobe rissole, and miso-marinated lamb chops. Omakase is truly top-notch. 3333 Bear

St., 714-850-0880. $$$

KNIFE PLEAT

Knife Pleat inhabits the penthouse of South Coast Plaza. Chef Tony Esnault and partner

Yassmin Sarmadi are new to O.C. though acclaimed in Los Angeles, and in the case of Esnault, covered in Michelin star dust after years with mentor Alain

Ducasse. Esnault is a disciple of the seasons; his style is light, graceful, and precise as revealed by escargot ravioli in broth, his famous legumes de saison, or the ultrarefined cassoulet. Don’t skip

Germain Biotteau’s indulgent desserts. 3333 Bristol

St., 714-266-3388. $$$

ROYAL KHYBER

Arun Puri, the creator behind Orange County’s first

Indian restaurant, is still buying the spices and manning the tandoor oven in the skilled kitchen at this upscale choice for first-rate renditions of classics such as butter chicken, tikka masala, and the signature Khyber’s Nectar, a dish of slow-cooked lamb shanks said to be an aphrodisiac. 1621 W.

Sunflower Ave., 714-436-1010. $$

TERRACE BY MIX MIX

Canny chef-owner Ross Pangilinan leverages the success of his original Mix Mix Kitchen Bar in downtown Santa Ana with this minimalist aerie overlooking the stylish Bridge of Gardens skywalk at

South Coast Plaza. This venue lacks a full bar, but it has wine and beer and is open daily with ample free parking. Fans love the three-course lunch for $20, but weekend brunch with its mimosa cart beguiles, and dinner offers the best prix fixe in the center.

Don’t-miss dishes include Asian ribs, hamachi crudo, and pork cheek adobo. 3333 Bear St., 657-231-6447. $$

VACA

Top chef Amar Santana and ace partner Ahmed

Labbate return to Costa Mesa with an exuberant, singular ode to Spain. Santana sidesteps the “eat local” crusade, offering peerless jamon Iberico, lush bomba rice for paellas, and verdant Mahon gin for cocktails. Dozens of authentic tapas beg to be tried, but do consider excellent wood-grilled steaks, dryaged in-house. Dinner tables at prime times are scarce, so plan, wait, or aim for lunch. 695 Town

Center Drive, 714-463-6060. $$$

TUSTIN

CENTRO STORICO

Old Town Tustin’s new kid on the old block transforms a vintage building into a spaghetteria and bar, plus a back pocket cafe. Artisan, fresh daily pasta is the latest effort from the Pozzuoli family behind Centro, the excellent micro pizzeria next door.

Signature dishes include Capperi e Olive (casarecca),

Aglione (bucatini), and grilled porterhouse for two. 405 El Camino Real., 714-258-8817. $$

CHAAK

Gabbi and Ed Patrick of Gabbi’s Kitchen chose Old Town to show off the county’s most sophisticated take on the regional fare of Mexico’s wondrous Yucatan Peninsula, naming their new location after the Mayan rain god. The dazzling space features a retractable roof and sliding Roman shades to lovely effect. Must-have dishes include sikil pec, a roasted pumpkin seed dip, as well as cochinita pibil and carne cruda. A 16-seat bar invites lingering over elaborate cocktails or a glass from an uncommonly diverse wine list. 215 El Camino

Real, 657-699-3019. $$$

THE WINERY RESTAURANT & WINE BAR

The O.C. power crowd doesn’t care that this isn’t a winery, but a huge, handsome restaurant that attracts disciples of steak, wine, and cigars. They’re exactly the folks you’d expect would follow partners

JC Clow and William Lewis from their previous gig at Morton’s, with executive chef Yvon Goetz in tow. Best bets include Goetz’s signature Alsatian

“pizza” and the Colorado buffalo carpaccio. If the 7,500-bottle wine cellar isn’t enough, you can always purchase a private wine locker. 2647 Park Ave., 714258-7600. See Newport Beach location. $$$

ZOV’S TUSTIN BISTRO

Fans love Zov Karamardian’s modern, creative way with Mediterranean flavors. Zov keeps her flagship venue fresh and stylish. Expect

Cal-Med dishes such as Moroccan salmon salad, spiced lamb burger, and pomegranate baby back ribs. Desserts are a standout, as are cocktails and chic mezze starters. The patio cafe out back stays busy at lunch. 17440 E. 17th St., 714-838-8855. See

Newport Coast location. $$$

YORBA LINDA

BLUE AGAVE

Southwestern favorites, from tamales to carnitas, and mole enchiladas in generous portions, keep regulars coming back. For something different, try the

Puerto Nuevo tostada with shrimp, mahi-mahi, sour cream, and raspberries in a pumpkin seed-citrus dressing. 18601 Yorba Linda Blvd., 714-970-5095. $$

THE WILD ARTICHOKE

Chef-owner James D’Aquila and his winsome crew raise the culinary bar at this teensy, modest storefront. Expect skillful, gourmet incarnations of comfort fare, such as pasta Bolognese. Desserts are few but mighty. 4973 Yorba Ranch Road, 714-777-9646.

Beer and wine. Dinner only. $$

PROMOTION

O.C. Scene PEOPLE | PARTIES | EVENTS | OPENINGS

SHEA CENTER GALA OFFERS “SURPRISE AND DELIGHT,” AN EVENING OF GRATITUDE

J. F. Shea Therapeutic Riding Center’s annual gala bloomed brightly as “Surprise and Delight, an Evening of Gratitude” at the Montage aguna each’s Pacific awn. The black tie-optional event was in a familiar setting with 2 0 new and longtime Shea Center friends and generated over $ 00,000 for the center. The luxurious setting offered cordiality, fun, dinner, drinks, entertainment, artfully packaged live auction items and dancing into the summer night.

Photo Credit: Brian Carter / Pixel That! Photography