51 minute read
MY O.C. A pandemic, botched Botox, and a hangover made for an interesting marriage proposal.
Best-Laid Plans
A pandemic, botched Botox, and a hangover made for an interesting proposal. by Chelsea Raineri
My boyfriend, Sam, and I were planning to move from our Costa Mesa apartment to my aunt’s Irvine condo in March of last year. My aunt was moving after 31 years. Then COVID-19 stalled everything. Each day in quarantine, our 700-square-foot apartment felt smaller and smaller—we would only leave to walk our dog around the block or pick up takeout. The stress and uncertainty of the pandemic made my TMJ flare. I would clench my jaw all day and night, causing migraines, jaw pain, and even ear pain. I learned it can also cause the muscles on the sides of your face to bulk up over the years. I looked at photos and realized this had been the case for me. I decided to have Botox injected into those overworked muscles to hopefully calm down the pain and slim my face.
I booked an appointment with a nurse at a plastic surgeon’s o ce who claimed to have done the procedure many times. She injected 30 units of Botox into both sides of my face. Within a week, one side of my smile wouldn’t lift. Within two weeks, my muscles began to atrophy, and my cheeks became hollow. The nurse later admitted I was only the 10th person she had done this procedure on.
I couldn’t look at myself in photos without analyzing my face. I’d send pictures to friends and family to ask how bad it was. Sam heard me complain about it nonstop and was extremely loving and supportive throughout the whole thing. Having discussed marriage before, I begged him to hold o on any proposal plans he might have, since I wouldn’t be able to smile properly for photos.
“It’ll happen when it happens,” he’d say.
JULY CAME AND MY AUNT
was able to move. Now we could get into the nearly 1,100-square-foot, two-story, two-bedroom condo that had been in my family for decades.
My mom originally purchased it in 1986. At the time, she was dating
a guy who made plans to take her to dinner at a Newport Beach restaurant, Cano’s, now the location for A’maree’s. My mom had a cold that night and was hesitant to go, but he convinced her otherwise. He had reserved a table overlooking the harbor, which is where he got down on one knee and asked her to marry him. Soon after, my parents moved into the condo together.
On the day of their wedding in 1988, Mom got ready at that condo: She slipped on her wedding dress, walked down the stairs, and went outside where she got into a vintage Bentley with my grandmother. They drove to a chapel in San Juan Capistrano. Next month marks my parents’ 33rd wedding anniversary.
My mom sold the condo to my aunt in 1989. When I was a child, my family spent an entire summer living there as we moved homes. My sister and I slept downstairs each night and would stay up late talking about what we hoped our futures would look like. I said I would live there with my many dogs and husband.
WHILE I WAS HAPPY SAM AND
I were moving to my family’s condo, I was still obsessing over how much my face had changed, compounded by the stress of the pandemic and moving. Regardless, we decided to celebrate our new home with close friends at a nearby park. I felt justified indulging in more than a few hard kombuchas. Of course, I got a hangover.
During breakfast the next day, Sam suggested we bike to the lake that evening. I said I’d rather go at that very moment since I wasn’t sure how I’d feel later, but he insisted we wait since he had errands to run. Around 4 p.m., we pulled our bikes out. I had thrown my hair up in a bun, pulled on a white T-shirt that probably needed to be washed, a pair of cut-o denim shorts, and well-worn slides.
“Let’s go to the right,” Sam said.
“If we go left, it’s much quicker,” I explained.
“Chelsea, please just trust me; let’s go this way,” he replied as he started to bike o to the right.
Stubborn and still nauseous from the hangover, I biked left as fast as my legs would take me to beat him to the corner and prove my point. I stood there out of breath until he caught up with me only a few seconds later.
When we arrived at the lake, there was an older couple reading, a man lying on the grass looking at his phone, and a young woman sitting on the bench, the coveted lakeside spot, clipping her toenails. We stood o to the side awkwardly until the woman left and we took her place.
“The bike ride was so short. Let’s keep going,” I said.
“I’m really just enjoying this view,” he said.
We sat there silently for a few minutes, watching geese swim by.
“I love you so much, Chelsea,” he continued.
He brushed past my rude remark and explained how much I meant to him and how everything that led to us meeting was fate. In high school, he moved from Downey and became neighbors with one of my best friends. He transferred into my photography class two weeks after the semester started. Everything lined up, and we’d been together ever since. He then reached over to his tote bag and pulled out a small box. I blurted out, “I knew it!” before he got on one knee, opened the box to reveal the ring we had designed together, and asked me to marry him. I put on the ring and hugged and kissed him as we took countless photos in front of the lake—all while I consciously hid my lopsided smile.
“Wait … did you o cially say yes?” he joked.
AS WE BIKED HOME, I LISTED
everyone we needed to call and declared we were going for sushi to celebrate. Sam remained quiet. When we pulled up to our patio, he opened the gate to reveal my family and our friends, yelling, “Surprise!” I teared up and gave everyone hugs, admiring all the decorations they had hung for us.
“Clearly it was a surprise for Chelsea,” my mom joked, and I looked down at my outfit. I quickly changed into a dress and ran back downstairs to eat dinner with everyone.
“Chelsea just couldn’t let everything happen,” Sam laughed as he explained how I almost undid each step of his proposal.
He had invited our friends over that Saturday to get me to believe that it would be the only day anything exciting happened that weekend—not anticipating the hangover. He had a friend drive up from the desert to hide and take candid photos of the proposal, which was why we had to go to the lake and sit on the bench in the evening. Our friends and family were parked along the “shorter route” that I biked through like a maniac.
He also decided that waiting to propose until we moved into the condo would be more meaningful to me because it’s where my parents had been engaged. I smiled one big uneven smile and told him I couldn’t wait to spend the rest of our lives together. It wasn’t until after we booked our venue that I realized Sam and I will get married in the same month and in the same city as my parents—and I’ll walk down the same stairs my mom did in my wedding dress.
BRYCE CANYON NATIONAL PARK, SEE PAGE 72
— EDNA BRUSH PERKINS, SUFFRAGIST AND WRITER
Death Valley
SAND DUNES EDUCATION TRANQUILITY TREES
259 MILES FROM ORANGE COUNTY
Situated along the California-Nevada border, Death Valley National Park is known for its record-setting temperatures, otherworldly landscapes, and brilliant night skies. The 3.4-million-acre park is not only the largest of its kind, it’s also the hottest, driest, and lowest. The past two summers, the park reached a record 130 degrees. To avoid extreme heat, time your visit for late winter or early spring for a chance to see desert
wildflowers. by Michelle Pagaran
EXPLORE
Contrary to its name, Death Valley is full of vibrant and diverse landscapes such as Artist’s Pale e, a dreamy, rainbow-colored canyon. The visually striking pink and teal hues are a result of volcanic deposits rich in iron oxide and chlorite compounds. The 9-mile, one-way drive to get there is breathtaking in and of itself.
To feel as though you’ve traveled halfway across the world or even to a galaxy far, far away, hike up the tawny mounds of sand at Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes. Certain scenes from “Star Wars” depicting the planet Tatooine’s iconic desert scenery were filmed at the park, including the one where C-3PO and R2-D2 are lost at Dune Sea.
Make sure to stop at Badwater Basin to walk on a sprawling salt at and one of the lowest points in North America. Close to the entrance of the park is Zabriskie Point, which has a viewing deck at the end of a short, paved path to marvel at badlands.
At night, locals recommend stargazing at Dante’s View, an accessible mountain lookout with panoramic views of the park during the day. Death Valley is an International Dark Sky Park with a gold-tier rating, which makes it a prime spot for awe- inspiring observations. Thousands of stars and celestial objects, and even the Milky Way, can be seen at almost any location away from lights.
STAY
Centrally located inside the park, The Oasis at Death Valley is the best place to unwind a er hours of exploring. It o ers three recently renovated options. Surrounded by date palms, The Inn at Death Valley ($350) has the most luxurious accommodations with a tiled, spring-fed pool, a fitness
PHOTOGRAPHS BY TYLER RAYE, KONRAD ZIEMLEWSKI, MOJAVE JEFF; OASIS AT DEATH VALLEY PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF XANTERRA TRAVEL COLLECTION center, an on-site spa, and rooms with sweeping desert and property views. The Ranch at Death Valley ($188 and up), the site of a former working ranch, is a family-friendly hotel with a spring-fed pool, tennis courts, and lawn games. You can easily walk to its town square, where you’ll find dining, an ice cream and co ee bar, and a general store. Book one of the 22 new 500-square-foot casitas with a living room and wet bar for added privacy and comfort ($550 and up).
EAT
Dine with a view of the Panamint Mountains at The Inn at Death Valley’s Dining Room with entrees such as 10-ounce wagyu ribeye ($71) and Palm Beach grilled mahi-mahi ($40). Don’t miss The Last Kind Words Saloon, a kitschy restaurant and bar inspired by the Wild West.
— ROBERT REDFORD, ACTOR AND DIRECTOR
PHOTOGRAPHS BY MADHU SHESHARAM, LAUREL BALYEAT, CHRISTIAN JOUDREY; TENAYA LODGE PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF EXPLOREBETTER.COM Yosemite
HISTORY SCENERY POPULARITY SPONTANEITY
323 MILES FROM O.C.
Yosemite usually gets more than 4 million visitors a year, but the pandemic cut the numbers in half in 2020. Plenty has changed for this year: No shuttle service in the valley, and advance online reservations are required to enter the park through at least Sept. 30. The pass ($35) is good for three consecutive days, rather than the usual seven. Visit on weekdays or during the o -season (October through May) for all the park’s wonder without the heat or crowds. by Alan Gibbons
EXPLORE
Outdoor enthusiasts make Yosemite their playground, with rock climbing, biking, hiking, fishing, and winter sports aplenty. Those who prefer to observe nature’s wonders with photography, art, stargazing, or bird-watching have their pick as well. Majestic views of El Capitan and Half Dome are best captured in nonpeak hours—before 9 a.m. or a er 5 p.m. Up for a hike? Vernal Fall is a moderate option that will make you feel like an expert as it gains elevation while you meander through narrow passages and over bridges. Take it easy with a walk around Mirror Lake Loop or to the base of Yosemite Falls. Wander through The Ahwahnee hotel, whether or not you stay there, for a self-guided historical tour of the place that has lured royalty and presidents and is a National Historic Landmark.
STAY
For the most luxurious stay in the park, The Ahwahnee ($341 and up) is the place, but you’ll need to reserve about six months in advance. Marvel at the lobby’s details and the murals throughout. Peek into the beautiful solarium to imagine yourself in a di erent era. The rooms in the main building have been remodeled and decorated with reproductions of the botanical finds writer and naturalist John Muir pressed into his notebooks. For homestyle accommodations outside the park, head to the Explorer Cabins at Tenaya Lodge. Quiet cabins ($242 and up) are set on their own loop down the hill from the main resort. Relax in front of the fireplace or on the porches and balconies, some of which overlook the creek, while still having access to all the resort’s amenities.
EAT
Feast surrounded by history in the grand dining room at The Ahwahnee for the breakfast ($32) or dinner ($59) bu et. This is an upscale occasion: no T-shirts or shorts. For more casual fare, and a pretzel the size of your head, try The Ahwahnee Bar. There are also plenty of fast-casual options for takeout meals and picnics at Curry Village.
Joshua Tree
CULTURE PROXIMITY SERENITY ON-SITE LODGING
135 MILES FROM ORANGE COUNTY
Where the low Colorado Desert and high Mojave Desert meet sits Joshua Tree National Park, a tranquil shrubland studded with incredible rock formations and the lively, namesake variety of yucca trees native to the area. Just a couple of hours from Orange County, it o ers a perfect change of scenery. On top of the natural sights, Joshua Tree is also home to a thriving and eccentric artist community. No wonder 2.8 million visitors come here annually, with the busiest months running from October through May. by Michelle Pagaran
EXPLORE
The rugged rock piles of Joshua Tree and more than 300 miles of hiking trails provide endless opportunity for adventure and discovery. Skull Rock is one of the most popular formations, with two hollowed out depressions resembling a skull. There’s also Arch Rock, which can be accessed via a 1.3-mile loop that starts at Twin Tanks trailhead.
Hidden Valley Nature Trail is a 1-mile, at loop traversing through a boulder-enclosed valley with a picnic area near the trailhead. Another easy hike is Barker Dam, a 1.5-mile loop leading to a reservoir. Stroll along the whimsical cacti at the Cholla Cactus Garden Nature Trail, where you’ll spot other native species such as hedgehog cactus, bri lebush, milkweed, and desert lavender.
For a panoramic vista stretching all the way to the Salton Sea, drive to Keys View, the highest lookout point in the park. The clear skies and open space make for epic sunsets and stargazing at the end of the day.
If you’re a rock-climbing enthusiast, you’ve come to an international hot spot for climbers, boulderers, and highliners. New to climbing? Turn to Cli anger Guides for expert-led trips. There are also 253 miles of equestrian trails if you’d like to explore the park on horseback. Knob Hill Ranch has guided trail rides for various levels of experience.
From artist Noah Purify’s outdoor art installations to the World Famous Crochet Museum, the neighboring desert towns o er a glimpse at Joshua Tree’s local art scene. You’ll also find a mix of independent shops nearby such as Grateful Desert, a local apothecary; and The End, a vintage clothing boutique.
STAY
While there is only camping available inside the park, there are plenty of accommodations just minutes from the entrance. The Joshua Tree House is a 1949 hacienda that accommodates up to four guests ($300 a night). The private two-bedroom, two-bath property is 10 minutes from the park and shops and
– DIANNE FEINSTEIN, U.S. SENATOR
PHOTOGRAPHS BY CEDRIC LETSCH, PABLO HEIMPLATZ; JOSHUA TREE HOUSE PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF SARA AND RICH COMBS restaurants downtown. It features a stock tank pool, king-size beds, a fireplace, and a hot tub. Joshua Tree Acres hosts five charming vintage airstreams, each with a private deck ($159 to $212 a night; sleeps two). The 10-acre site also has shared spaces including a clubhouse, outdoor kitchen, bocce ball court, a seasonal cold plunge pool, an outdoor clawfoot tub and shower, and whirlpool bath.
EAT
Crossroads Cafe is an Old Westinspired restaurant serving breakfast until 2 p.m. Try the vegetarian soyrizo hash ($12.50) or the grilled ahi tuna burger ($14.45). Joshua Tree Co ee Company is a local spot that takes pride in organic, houseroasted beans—a freshly roasted bag makes for a great souvenir. Make sure to visit the legendary Pappy & Harriet’s Pioneertown Palace, a restaurant known for its Tex-Mex fare, mesquite barbecue, and live music. Modest Mouse is set to perform this month.
PARK IT!
Notes from an RV newbie. by Benjamin Epstein
My wife has periodically brought up the idea of vacationing in an RV. Advantages over camping: You can watch TV, and you don’t have to fi nd the bathroom in the dark. Advantages over a hotel: You can bring more stu , and you don’t have to eat meals out.
A recent promotion by El Monte RV Rentals for $9 a night caught my eye but entailed a plane ride to Chicago and driving the vehicle back to California. For our fi rst RV experience, visits to nearby national parks seemed more appropriate. El Monte RV has a location at motorhome mecca Newport Dunes. All vehicles come with a kitchen and bathroom and range from $75 to $200 per night plus mileage. CruiseAmerica in Costa Mesa is another local option.
Class-A RVs resemble buses. Class-C vehicles have a sleeping space over the cab. Determine how many people are traveling, then ask lots of questions. And keep asking: There’s a learning curve and it’s steep. Watch the instructional video—twice.
Among other Central Coast stops, our itinerary included visits to Pinnacles and the Channel Islands. Sites at Pinnacles Campground are $36 per night. No RVs on the Channel Islands, so we stayed at Ventura Beach RV Resort for $120 per night.
There are downsides: water and waste tanks to fi ll and empty, street parking isn’t easy, and there’s a heap of do’s and don’ts—like don’t back up without somebody getting out to guide you. Yes, our trip had its ups and downs, but now we’re considering that $9-a-night, Chicago-toCalifornia voyage.
— KEN BURNS, DOCUMENTARY FILMMAKER
Pinnacles
BIRDWATCHING CLIMBING CAVES CROWDS
312 MILES FROM ORANGE COUNTY
National Geographic magazine describes Pinnacles National Park as “a geologic wonderland of jutting volcanic spires, cli s, and peaks located in the dense chaparral country of the Gabilan Range.” It’s one of the country’s least-visited national parks—and the least visited in California. by Benjamin Epstein
EXPLORE
Though President Theodore Roosevelt established Pinnacles as a national monument in 1908, it is the nation’s newest national park, approved in 2013 by President Barack Obama.
Its igneous formations a ract climbers; its proximity to vineyards also a racts oenophiles. One prominent feature of the park is Chalone Peak; on its anks, just outside the west entrance, is Chalone Vineyards, renowned for its chardonnay and pinot noir.
Birdwatchers are treated to a wide variety of species at Pinnacles, including the California condor, o en spo ed atop pinnacles along the High Peaks Trail, known for precarious sections traversed via steps chiseled into the rock. The birds also roost on a ridgeline high above the park campground; bring binoculars. The species became nearly extinct in the wild in 1987 but was reintroduced to several national parks, notably Pinnacles, Grand Canyon, and Zion.
Among other winged denizens, more prairie falcons breed per square mile here than anywhere else in North America. The number of bee species represents the greatest diversity density anywhere on Earth. There are about a dozen species of bats in a pair of talus caves, Bear Gulch on the east side and Balconies to the west.
The caves are closed when the bats are breeding and for ooding. When they are open, bring ashlights or headlamps; significant sections of both are narrow and pitch black.
Pinnacles has two entrances with no connecting road. The approach to the east side, and the campground, is via remote ranchland with no services for 50 miles. The entrance to the west side is 5 miles east of Soledad.
STAY
Wild and remote, Pinnacles is usually low on crowds. The trade-o is a lack of lodging. Pinnacles Campground o ers tent camping ($37 per night), RV sites, coin-operated showers, a camp store, and a swimming pool during the warmer months. There are also motels in Soledad ($110 to $130 per night).
EAT
There are no restaurants inside Pinnacles National Park, but Mexican restaurants in Soledad include quaint Cocuyo’s. Casa de Fruta is a sprawling roadside food emporium and American restaurant north of Hollister.
— JOHN MUIR, NATURALIST AND AUTHOR
Sequoia
TREES MOUNTAINS WATERFALLS CELL SERVICE
265 MILES FROM O.C.
Visitors flock to Sequoia National Park for one thing—to walk among giants. You can read the stats and see the photos, but for true understanding you must stand beneath the massive trees for yourself. The nation’s second-oldest national park is open year-round; hike in the summer, and snowshoe in the winter. A vehicle pass ($35) is valid for up to a week. by Astgik Khatchatryan
EXPLORE
Whether it’s your first or 50th time here, your first stop should be the Giant Forest, an hour’s drive from the park’s southern entrance. Trek half a mile downhill to tour the grove of sequoias, including the General Sherman Tree. At 275 feet in height and 2,100 years in age, it’s not the tallest nor the oldest; but it’s the world’s largest tree by volume. Take your time on the climb back up to your car—you’re at nearly 10,000 feet above sea level.
If you plan to visit Crystal Cave, be sure to book tickets a couple of months in advance. Guided tours suitable for all ages run 50 minutes and are o ered spring through fall by the Sequoia Parks Conservancy.
There’s no shortage of trails to explore. One of the most popular is Moro Rock, a granite dome with extraordinary views, accessible via a concrete and stone stairway with more than 350 steps. Another is Crescent Meadow Loop, a scenic 1.8-mile trail around a picturesque clearing surrounded by statuesque trees. Slightly more challenging but still doable for beginners, Tokopah Falls Trail is 3.4 miles out and back. The trail follows the Marble Fork of the Kaweah River, ending at the
PHOTOGRAPHS BY ANGEL ORIGGI, SARAH BROWN, MELANIE-HOOGHIEMSTRA; WUKSACHI LODGE PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF EXPLOREBETTER.COM WUKSACHI LODGE
tallest waterfall in the park tumbling down 1,200 feet in a series of small cascades. Keep an eye out for yellow-bellied marmots sunbathing on the rocks.
Whichever trails you follow, also watch for deer and black bears. And make sure to never leave food in your car. Rely on the park’s shu le service during the summer months to avoid packed smaller lots.
STAY
The Wuksachi Lodge ($203 and up) is the park’s signature hotel. Stay in one of the 102 guest rooms spread among three buildings 100 to 200 yards from the main lodge. Wi-Fi is included, though spo y, and dogs are welcome with a $25 fee.
EAT
In normal times, the 90-seat Peaks Restaurant at Wuksachi Lodge o ers full-service breakfast, lunch, and dinner. At the time of this writing, a limited menu was available for takeaway, with the option to dine indoors or outside, but no tableside service. Pizza ($15 to $17), salad ($7.50 to $9.25), and sandwiches ($7.50 to $11.25) from the Wuksachi Pizza Deck are available, as are daily specials such as braised short ribs or lasagna. SIDE TRIP Kings Canyon National Park
Just to the north on Highway 180, Kings Canyon was established in 1940, 50 years a er its sister park. Like Sequoia, it has its own giant groves. But the trail to General Grant Tree, the second-largest tree in the world, doesn’t require nearly as much of a climb. You’ll pass by the historic Gamlin Cabin and the Fallen Monarch, a hollow log that visitors can easily walk through.
Deeper in the valley, you’ll find spectacular cascading waterfalls such as Mist Falls, Roaring River Falls, and Grizzly Falls—the last located just a tenth of a mile from the road.
Zion
BIKING HISTORY SCENIC DRIVES PROXIMITY
440 MILES FROM ORANGE COUNTY
— KARL WIGGINS, AUTHOR
Whether you’re looking to hike, bike, enjoy a craft brew, or even just drive around with no plan, Zion National Park has it all—and no matter what you choose, you’ll see incredible views from every angle. by Chelsea Raineri
EXPLORE
For a fairly quick hike, Zion Canyon Overlook Trail is 1 mile out and back with 163 feet in elevation gain. It o ers the perfect spot to take in the sunset. For a longer and more di icult hike, the Narrows gives you the unique experience of hiking through water, which can be as shallow as your ankles or as deep as your chest depending on the time of year. There are some sections of the hike with banks along the side of the water so you can get out and take a break if needed. The hike can be as short as you wish or as long as 16 miles. Be sure to rent equipment beforehand; places such as Zion Outfi er o er dry pants, a dry bib, a walking stick, water shoes, and more with prices ranging from $29 to $55 for the day.
STAY
Want a more upscale camping experience? Zion Wild ower gives SIDE TRIP Bryce Canyon
A li le more than an hour drive from Zion, Bryce Canyon National Park o ers incredible views of its hoodoos, which were formed millions of years ago. While there are plenty of trails to choose from, many of them are connected, so you can pick several to combine and hike during your visit. If you go during the winter, you’ll see snow on the peaks of the hoodoos—a stunning sight. Be aware that there might be ice on certain parts of the trail, so walk carefully. If you’d rather enjoy Bryce Canyon by bike, you can choose to do so on the paved surfaces.
you the choice of staying in a luxury tent complete with a bed, furniture, decor, and shower amenities ($202 and up), a covered wagon ($209 and up), or a stylish bungalow ($202 and up). The site also has complimentary Wi-Fi, private bathrooms and showers, fire pits, and barbecue and picnic areas.
EAT
For breakfast, head to FeelLove Co ee for drinks such as the Buddy Holly co ee with white chocolate and agave ($5.50 to $7.95). You can also grab a vegan sausage breakfast burrito ($11.95). For dinner, try Zion Canyon Brew Pub where you can enjoy a Foray pomegranate sour ($7 a pint), house-marinated wings ($12), and an Elevated Elk burger with a side of chimichurri fries ($19). You can’t go wrong with the rosemary garlic pizza ($16.95) or Thai chicken pizza ($18.95) at Zion Pizza & Noodle Co.
— T.C. BOYLE, AUTHOR
Channel Islands
WILDLIFE HIKING KAYAKING LODGING
101 MILES TO OXNARD OR 108 MILES TO VENTURA, PLUS 12 TO 55 MILES BY BOAT
Five islands—Anacapa, Santa Cruz, Santa Rosa, San Miguel, and Santa Barbara—and their marine environs make up Channel Islands National Park. Of its 2,000 plant and animal species, 145 are found nowhere else. by Benjamin Epstein
EXPLORE
Santa Cruz Island, the largest at nearly 100 square miles, is an ideal introduction. Consider the Island Packers crossing, a hike to Cavern Point, and Santa Barbara Adventure Co.’s two-hour Discovery Sea Cave Kayak tour.
Santa Barbara-based Channel Islands Expeditions o ers a fullday, guided Painted Cave kayak and snorkel trip. Painted Cave is one of the world’s longest sea caves, penetrating a quarter of a mile into the island. In one passage, kayakers are surrounded in the dark by bellowing sea lions.
There are half-day trips to Anacapa’s East Islet. Less than 1 square mile, it has a visitor’s center and a lighthouse. Landing passengers ascend a steel-rung ladder, then climb 157 metal stairs. Seagulls and their spo ed nestlings blanket the island seasonally.
Santa Rosa Island is nearly as large as Santa Cruz. Look for pygmy mammoth fossils on the Lobo Canyon hike. The campground is located near a 3-mile-long beach.
Visitors to San Miguel Island sign an acknowledgement-of-danger form. There is no drinking water or shade. The ski lands on the beach. Campsites are a rugged mile-plus trail uphill; all hikes are strenuous and guided. The Caliche Forest is an eerie expanse of ancient, calcified vegetation—and unexploded ordnance: During World War II, San Miguel was used as a military bombing range. Point Benne is home to tens of thousands of seals and sea lions. Island Packers Cruises has a trip scheduled for Oct. 9.
Remote Santa Barbara Island is smaller than Anacapa and also treeless. Signal Peak’s summit rewards hikers with endless ocean views.
Ge ing to and from any of the islands can be rewarding in itself. On a recent crossing, the boat was surrounded by a megapod of dolphins and stopped for a rare blue whale sighting.
STAY
There is one primitive campground at each island ($15 per site); Santa Cruz also has group sites ($40). If you camp, guard your pack: The tiny island foxes can unzip zippers! Not into camping? Stay at one of the many hotels in Oxnard, such as the Courtyard by Marriot ($148 and up), or in Ventura, such as The Pierpoint Inn ($127 and up).
EAT
There are no restaurants on the islands. Pack all food and water in; pack all trash out.
Grand Canyon
VISTAS WILDLIFE MAJESTY HUMIDITY
486 MILES FROM ORANGE COUNTY
The Grand Canyon’s wonders are best enjoyed in the o -season, as spring and fall showcase sunny days that aren’t hot. Be prepared with plenty of water, no matter when you go, as this place is high (7,000 feet) and dry (less than 10 percent humidity much of the time). The beautiful vistas are endless, no matter what angle you choose to see the canyon or hike into it. by Alan Gibbons
EXPLORE
The shu les are running here, so take advantage of them. Hike the rim trail and jump on the shu le at any time. The on-and-o privileges make for a great option to see various lookouts. Ride all the way to Hermits Rest, a rock structure built in 1914 and made a historic landmark in 1987. Take in the enormous fireplace and the perfect se ing of this shelter.
If you’re planning to hike, go early or late: Parking is tricky in the middle of the day near most of the main trailheads. Bright Angel trailhead will lure you in for a hike, and as you walk down, you’ll be rewarded with gorgeous vistas. Just remember: You have to go back up. Only the most prepared and expert hikers should a empt to go to the bo om.
Drive east to check out various points, especially Moran Point, on your way to Desert View Watchtower. For a cultural break and mementos, check out Hopi House.
STAY
El Tovar Hotel opened in 1905 and is modeled a er European chalets. The elegance and historic vibe extends throughout the property, and each of the 78 rooms is unique ($195 and up in the winter). Treat yourself here if you plan to stay within the park, since the price is only slightly more than a room in one of the other lodges. But you’ll have to book at least six months in advance. Alternatively, stay in Williams, a quaint town with an old-time feel, and take the train into the park.
EAT
No ma er where you sleep, be sure to have a meal at El Tovar Dining Room. A er a day of touring the park, the hearty lunch options will hit the spot. Dive into fe uccini Alfredo basil pesto ($15) or the traditional Navajo tacos ($17.50) served with handmade fry bread instead of tortillas. Save room for dessert as there are three to choose from daily, all made in-house. The savvy sta ensures your taste buds are prepared: Hosts stop and explain each one as you’re seated.
Head to orangecoast.com/nationalparks2021 for additional info and links.
— THEODORE ROOSEVELT, 26TH U.S. PRESIDENT
PHOTOGRAPHS BY STEPHEN WALKER, TIM JONES, ERIK JACOBSON; EL TOVAR PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF XANTERRA TRAVEL COLLECTION EL TOVAR DINING ROOM
the ART
of LIVING
Actress Kieu Chinh draws on real-life tragedy for her roles, which she delves into in a memoir out this month. by Dô Quyen portrait by Emily J. Davis untington Beach resident and award-winning actress Kieu Chinh has a deep knowledge of pain that she drew on for her role as a mother who has to abandon her twin babies in the fi lm “The Joy Luck Club.” When Chinh was 6, her mother and newborn brother were killed in an air raid targeting Japanese troops in North Vietnam. Her father, Cuu Nguyen, a tall man with movie star good h looks, never remarried. He doted on Chinh, taught her horseback riding, and they watched French movies on Sundays. While fl eeing her war-torn country, a teenage Chinh was separated from her father and never saw him again.
Kieu Chinh with her father
In a career spanning six decades, the pain of loss, loneliness, and despair has been central to many of her roles, which mirrored her life o -screen. Chinh is a legendary star and a trailblazer in South Vietnam’s movie industry. She earned the Best Actress Award of South Vietnam in 1970 and owned a film company. In America, Chinh was among the first Vietnamese actors to break into Hollywood, amassing more than 100 credits in both film and TV, most notably on shows such as “M*A*S*H,” “Dynasty,” “ER,” and “NCIS.” “Kieu Chinh is one of the icons of Vietnamese cinema,” says Bao Nguyen, an award-winning filmmaker of “Be Water,” whose works have been featured on ESPN, HBO, NBC, and PBS. “Her work is prolific and has made a great impact on Vietnamese representation around the world.”
Chinh’s memoir, “An Artist in Exile,” will be released this month. Writing the book has fulfilled a silent promise to her late father to share her story as a living witness to her country’s tumultuous and sometimes violent history.
Her childhood forever changed in 1954, when the Geneva Accords divided Vietnam into two zones at the 17th parallel: the communists occupied the north; and the Republic of Vietnam ruled the south. Chaos broke out as 500,000 people tried to flee Hanoi during the partition. Her older brother, Lan, then 21, decided to join the North communist forces. The next morning, Chinh and her father were ready to board a plane, but he urged her to go ahead. He stayed to search for her brother and promised to join her in Saigon.
“That was the last time I ever saw my father,” Chinh says. Forty-one years later, she made her first trip back to Vietnam to see her brother. A film crew followed her and produced a documentary, “Kieu Chinh: A Journey Home.” On the trip, Chinh learned that her father was imprisoned in a communist re-education camp for more than six years. When he was released, he wandered the streets homeless, malnourished, and destitute. He died alone. “My greatest regret is not being there for my father when he needed me,” Chinh says quietly. She is working in her home o ce surrounded by awards and photos from her acting career. Her skin is flawless, but for the fine lines that accentuate a deep
sadness, even when she smiles.
When she’s not working, Chinh enjoys relaxing in her backyard garden or heading to the beach.
At age 17, Chinh arrived in Saigon and waited for her father, but lost hope after a year. She married Te Nang Nguyen, the son of a family friend, and had three children. Chinh’s rise to stardom could be seen as fate. When Oscar-winning director Joseph Mankiewicz was in Saigon to film a movie in 1957, he spotted Chinh walking by and had her do a screen test. A Vietnamese producer working with Mankiewicz then cast Chinh in his next movie, “The Bells of Thien Mu Temple.” A decade later, Chinh commanded top salary, had her own TV talk show, and ruled the screen with more than 20 films in Vietnam and throughout Asia. At home, a sta of servants cared for her family. But it was not long before Saigon fell to the communists in April 1975. Again, she was forced into exile and lost everything.
Chinh eventually arrived in Toronto, Canada, where her three children were in boarding school. Her first job was cleaning chicken coops, wearing rubber boots in deep manure. Despondent, she called on her Hollywood friends and reached actress Tippi Hedren, who knew Chinh from her TV talk show. Hedren opened her home and sponsored Chinh to come to America in the summer of 1975. Her first break came in 1977, on the hit TV show “M*A*S*H,” playing Alan Alda’s love interest. Initially, audiences adored her, but fans later objected to Alda falling in love with an Asian woman, so Chinh was written o . Her most well-known role came in 1993 with “The Joy Luck Club.” Her character was forced to flee her war-ravaged country—an experience Chinh had lived through twice.
Chinh was honored in 2019 by the Museum of the Republic of Vietnam, in Westminster. “She brings back proud memories of our past when Saigon was thriving with arts and culture,” says Quan Nguyen, the museum’s president. Her movie, “Warrior Who Are You,” won two awards in 1973. Nguyen says the film “honors the Vietnam war veterans, preserves their legacy, and helps educate future generations.” After four decades in exile, Chinh is apolitical, preferring instead to speak of love and unity. In March, she received the Snow Leopard Lifetime Achievement Award from the Asian World Film Festival in Los Angeles.
SNAPSHOT
MAKING IT WORK
Orange resident Nicole Stevenson is the CEO and creative director of Dear Handmade Life, a blog, podcast, and organization behind the long-running Patchwork Show—a community event featuring local makers. by Astgik Khatchatryan
What began in 2007 as a small crafters market in a Santa Ana parking lot has evolved into a biannual, multicity modern makers festival. Stevenson, the woman behind Patchwork Show, likens it to being able to walk around a physical iteration of Etsy. Dozens of vendors selling everything from handmade greeting cards and candles to clothing and home goods are joined by food trucks, live music, DIY stations, and even a special section for under-18 artisans called Patchwork Junior. “When we began,” Stevenson says, “there really weren’t any local cra shows in Orange County. I had my own handmade business, and I used to have to sell at church bazaars and ea markets.”
Her focus at the time was a handcrafted clothing line called Random Nicole, a venture that began on the Venice Beach boardwalk and became a six-figure business. As the Patchwork Show grew over the next four years, Stevenson launched a complementary conference for makers called Cra cation, featuring four days of more than 200 cra ing and business classes as well as networking events. “Eventually, I felt much more drawn to serving other creatives, and I did less and less of my own handmade business until I finally let it go.”
With the launch of a blog and podcast, the brand came together under the umbrella of Dear Handmade Life in 2013. The blog o ers
At Patchwork, multigenerations of families and di erent types of families come together, and each find something (handmade) to fall in love with.
resources to help artisans with their businesses as well as DIY tutorials on projects such as marbled wood bead keychains, photo mobiles, hand-embroidered necklaces, and more. On the “Dear Handmade Life” podcast, Stevenson chats with guests about topics ranging from building brand awareness to imposter syndrome and everything in between. Makers also can enroll in a virtual summer camp, an idea that was born out of the necessity of social distancing but proved to be a winning concept.
“When I first started this business, I started it with my aunt and partner Delilah Snell. When she moved on from Dear Handmade Life in 2018, I had to pivot and think about things di erently. It was going awesome, and then boom, COVID-19 happened, and everything had to change again. Plus, I had just had a baby and was dealing with postpartum depression. Coming out of that and moving forward with the virtual camp and ge ing back into the live events—it has renewed my passion for it and made me realize this is where I really want to be: sharing what I’ve learned with other people to help shorten that learning curve.”
Handmade goods and fairs are much more ubiquitous in Orange County these days than they were when Stevenson started Dear Handmade Life. “There are a lot more cra shows now. I think that some people in my position might feel like that’s bad because there’s more competition, but I don’t feel that way. The more people are into buying handmade, and understand what goes into making handmade items, the be er. You can’t compare something handmade with something you bought at Target. It’s a completely di erent thing. And I just want to support those businesses as much as possible.”
O.C. Scene PEOPLE | PARTIES | EVENTS | OPENINGS
“Gen Art Muse 2021: An Evening of Film, Art, Fashion and Music,” co-hosted by Ethos Contemporary Art, the pop art gallery in Newport Beach founded by artist and curator Georgeana Ireland, and Gen Art, the 25-year-old entertainment company known for its innovative multi-media, fashion and art experiences, drew partygoers to the Gray Matter Museum of Art in Newport Beach. Special guests included Platinum recording artist Luciana, Why Women Kill actress and singer Lana Parrilla, and Ninja Monk, the LA-based fashion label and newly recognized Gen Art “Fresh Faces in Fashion,” provided a continuous runway show. Artworks from Ethos Contemporary Art were showcased throughout, and celebs and influencers abounded.
Photography by: Sheri Determan and Tony Lattimore
ORANGE COUNTY SCHOOL OF THE ARTS GALA 2021 “RE-BOOTS & BLING”
An excited crowd of Orange County School of the Arts (OCSA) supporters gathered at Giracci Vineyards and Farms in Silverado to celebrate the return of live performances and extraordinary generosity that raised $1 million for the school’s students and tuition-free arts programs. OCSA’s Gala 2021 “Re-Boots & Bling” brought guests to their feet with joy and enthusiasm after more than a year of stay-at-home orders and virtual showcases. Guests enjoyed contemporary American cuisine, a live and virtual auction and a three-act production staged by OCSA’s talented students and esteemed graduates from the classes of 2020 and 2021. With the support of presenting sponsor Farmers & Merchants Bank and season sponsor McKenna Subaru, this year’s thrilling performance put a theatrical twist on some of the hottest popcountry hits.
Photos Courtesy of Orange County School of the Arts
SUCCESS IS A JOURNEY, NOT A DESTINATION.
- BEN SWEETLAND
Sage Hill School offers a bright, motivated and diverse student body a unique journey of discovery. Our academically challenging, college preparatory curriculum is enriched by ample opportunities for participation in athletics, the arts, leadership, service and a wide variety of community activities.
have worked in education for the past 25 years, and the challenge and focus of my work has always remained the same: to prepare students to be leaders for tomorrow in a world that continues to change and evolve.
Over the last year and a half, we saw the world change in ways many of us could have never seen coming. But through it all, Sage Hill School never wavered. We pivoted quickly to an exemplary distance learning model, but my primary focus was always for our students to be able to return to campus safely.
Sage Hill was one of the fi rst and only high schools in Orange County to reopen its doors last fall, and we remained open fi ve days a week for all students who chose to return in person. Other students opted to learn from home, and our outstanding educators used technology and ingenuity to seamlessly teach classes in a hybrid model and make sure no student was left behind.
For over 20 years, Sage Hill School has been providing students in grades 9-12 with a transformative high school experience, and not even a pandemic could stop us!
Since I became Head of School in 2014, many families have asked me, “why Sage Hill?” I never get tired of answering this question because I love sharing all of the many reasons why Sage Hill is remarkable.
Here are just a few:
Sage Hill is the only nonprofi t, independent high school in Orange County set on 28 beautiful acres in Newport Coast.
Our average class size of 14 ensures all students get personalized attention.
We offer a 34:1 counselor-to-student ratio in our unique College Counseling program that begins in ninth grade.
Sage Hill emphasizes the application of knowledge — not just the acquisition of knowledge — throughout our innovative curriculum and our signature programs.
The Sage Center is home to a number of these extraordinary programs, including the Sage Hill Internship Program, Service Learning, Spring at Sage and a robust Advisory program that gives students a sense of belonging from their very fi rst day on campus. (You can read more about those programs on this page.)
But the best reason to apply to Sage Hill is for the community — the real heart of Sage Hill School. Our students are happy, healthy and interesting. They stand out among their peers as motivated and creative, and they truly take advantage of all of the amazing opportunities Sage Hill provides them.
Every year, I hear from students and parents that the Sage Hill experience impacts the entire family in a positive way. They are part of something they can be proud of.
So why Sage Hill? It’s all about the compassionate people, the inspiring educators and the endless amount of opportunities. It is a place where students engage in the process of their own learning, understand their skills and defi ne and develop their passions.
And I welcome you to join us! Our beautiful campus is once again open for tours for prospective students, and we are hosting our annual Admission Open House on Saturday, October 9.
Please visit our website at www.sagehillschool.org for more information, and I hope to see you on our campus soon!
Sincerely,
Patricia Merz
- Head of School, Sage Hill School
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ACADEMICS ARE IMPORTANT. CHARACTER IS PARAMOUNT.
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K-12 Private School in Orange County
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