MARVELOUS MEXICAN

Upgrade Taco Tuesday with these elevated destinations for south-of-the-border fare.

BY CAROLE DIXON

We have come a long way from the carb-loaded combination plate and pre-made margarita overflowing with triple sec. A new crop of Mexican restaurants is bringing an upscale vibe to your neighborhood south-of-the-border eatery with everything from top-shelf tequila to tableside presentations—with Wagyu and lobster all part of the menu too.

› Maestro in Pasadena has become a staple for braised bone-in lamb shank, and the lobster al pastor at Mexico City import Damian by chef Enrique Olvera has also helped elevate the scene over the past few years. French-trained chef Wes Avila went from the Guerilla taco truck to Ka’teen in Hollywood, where duck confit tamal and lamb barbacoa are must orders.

Newer to the offerings, Mírate is a romantic space in Los Feliz with multiple levels of dining and bars with a menu uniquely executed by Michelin-star chef Josh Gil and his team, who brought lobster tacos and lamb quesadillas to Mírame in Beverly Hills.

As for the current upswing, “Thankfully, L.A. is a melting pot, a communal amalgamation of culture, art, and expression,” Gil says.

“So, we are excited to create and try new combinations in all expressions.”

He recommends the Southern fried Jidori chicken oysters that are soaked in green chili buttermilk and served with a Mexican ranch; or mesquite grilled rock cod marinated in spicy seiko miso, served with wasabi crema jicama slaw on a Wagyu-fat Sonoran flour tortilla.

At Encanto in Los Feliz, the upscale design and art elements are a major draw, along with an enticing cocktail bar, but do order the Australian swordfish tacos or whole branzino with mole verde for the table.

Casa Madera in the Mondrian Los Angeles is a high-energy scene that brings the Riviera graze on seafood towers with king crab legs, duck confit tacos, Dover sole, or an 8 oz. prime filet and poached lobster in a Madeira cream sauce. Premium tequila and smokey mezcal drinks are lit on fire tableside and highrollers can go straight for the $65 shot of Clase Azul. Nearby, E.P. & L.P. on La Cienega has just launched Bombo, helmed by native Angeleno and Chopped champion chef Samantha Quintero. Look for menu highlights like grilled prawns with chipotle mezcal and grilled whole seabass with coconut lime sauce.

Hidden in the Rodeo Collection, The Hideaway offers an indoor-outdoor dining space that has quickly become a hard-tobook table. Cozy up on the patio next to the fireplace while a 36 oz. Tomahawk steak or 16 oz. New York Wagyu is carved tableside— and don’t miss the lobster tortilla soup at lunchtime.

Buzzy Casita in Sherman Oaks also offers a show with flaming queso soaked in mezcal served tableside, prime Japanese A-5 Wagyu tacos, and a lobster boma coconut rice dish that is creamy and rich like a risotto, and another reason for the packed house.

Santa Monica favorite Tallula’s recent menu revamp includes a Plato de Mariscos with oysters, charred blue prawns, cóctel de camaron, and ceviche that pairs well with a flight of artisanal, small-batch mezcal. Chef Juan Robles’ signature molcajete with flank steak and mole negro is also a showstopper.