Exotic Journeys by Lance van den Heever-Liebenberg

NOV 2014 - APR 2015

INDOCHINA

EXOTIC JOURNEYS E X P L O R E .

D R E A M .

D I S C O V E R .

THE MIGHTY

MEKONG Discovering Cambodia & Vietmam from the Mighty Mekong River

SAILING THE

MERGUI Virtually unknown to the outside world, the Mergui Archipelago is located in Myanmar’s remote south: a group of 800 deserted islands that lie at the heart of this sailing area.

DISCOVERING

BURMA “This is Burma and it is unlike any land you know about” Rudyard Kipling Letters from the East (1898)

EXOTIC JOURNEYSne

BUR<MA

VIETNAM

Marmalade Toast bespoke travel & destination management meticulously curated destinations, experiences, travel products & services www.marmaladetoast.co.za

Have you ever dreamed of chasing the

Burma: a land undiscovered. â&#x20AC;&#x153;This is Burma and it is unlike any land you know

aboutâ&#x20AC;?

Aurora Borealis or sailing down the mighty Mekong exploring Buddhist temples; tracking gorillas in the Bwindi impenetrable forest or trekking though Bhutan? What about sailing through the jade green waters

Explore the Mergui Archipelago with Burma Boating

Sailing the majestic Ayeyarwady on board the luxurious Sanctuary Ananda

of Halong Bay on-board a traditional Siamese Junk, or watching hundreds of thousands of sky lanterns slowly climb to the heavens over Chiang Mai during the Yee Ping festival? Explore the Golden Triangle in Thailand and become a mahout for a day; climb Machu Picchu or samba the night away at the Rio carnival. Go hot air ballooning over the Bagan temples and pagodas before sailing the Mergui Archipelago in Burma or taking part in an Antarctic Voyage.

The options are limitless and only defined by your imagination.

Vietnam: Astonishingly exotic and utterly compelling

15 days exploring Vietmam from Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon)

CAMBODIA With a history both inspiring and depressing, Cambodia delivers an intoxicating present. The mighty Mekong: honored with epic titles such as Mother of All Waters

LAOS Laos: Southeast Asiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most pristine environment

10 Day adventurer level Laos explorer

Now is the moment to visit this extraordinary land, scattered with gilded pagodas, where the traditional ways of Asia endure and areas previously off-limits are opening up.

Surreal & Traditional In a nation with well over 100 ethnic groups, exploring Myanmar can often feel like you’ve stumbled into a living edition of the National Geographic, circa 1910! The country, for instance, has yet to be completely overwhelmed by Western fashion – everywhere you’ll encounter men wearing skirtlike longyi, women smothered in thanakha (traditional make-up) and

betel-chewing grannies with mouths full of blood-red juice. People still get around in trishaws and, in rural areas, horse and cart. Drinking tea – a British colonial affectation – is enthusiastically embraced in thousands of traditional teahouses.

Simple Pleasures Thankfully, the pace of change is not overwhelming, leaving the simple pleasures of travel in Myanmar intact. You can still drift down the Ayeyarwady (Irrawaddy) River in an old river steamer, stake out a slice of beach on the blissful Bay of Bengal, or trek through pine forests to minority villages scattered

a land UNDISCOVERED “This is Burma and it is unlike any land you know about” Rudyard Kipling, Letters from the East (1898)

Myanmar across the Shan Hills without jostling with scores of fellow travellers. Best of all you’ll encounter locals who are gentle, humorous, engaging, considerate, inquisitive and passionate – they want to play a part in the world, and to know what you make of their world. Now is the time to make that connection. The Ethical Dimension ‘This is Burma,’ wrote Rudyard Kipling. ‘It is quite unlike any place you know about.’ Amazingly, over a century later, Myanmar retains the power to surprise and delight even the most jaded of travellers. Be dazzled by the ‘winking wonder’ of Shwedagon Paya. Contemplate the 4000 sacred stupas scattered across the plains of Bagan. Stare in disbelief at the Golden Rock at Mt Kyaiktiyo, teetering impossibly

on the edge of a chasm. These are all important Buddhist sights in a country where pious monks are more revered than rock stars. Modernisation In 2013 Myanmar remained a Starbucks-free nation – but that could soon change. As the country makes tentative steps towards democracy, sanctions have been dropped and the world is rushing to do business here. In recent years conveniences such as mobile phone coverage, internet access and internationally linked ATMs have all improved or made their debut. Relaxing of censorship has led to an explosion of new media and an astonishing openness in public discussions of once-taboo topics, including politics. Swathes of the county, off-limits for years, can now be freely visited.

Following the lifting of Western sanctions, Burma has become a magnet for tourists. It has some wondrous sights: a thousand temples scattered across the countryside in Bagan; the leg-rowers and floating gardens of Inle Lake, and majestic rivers - the Ayeyarwady and the Chindwin - navigable into the furthest reaches of the country. But the big draw is the chance to see a country where the 21st-century world has barely intruded. This is changing but there is still a strong sense of the old Orient here. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a place where Buddhism is still a way of life.

BAGAN The sheer scale of BAGAN (formerly known as Pagan), which covers 67 square km and includes more than two thousand Buddhist structures, is almost impossible to take in. Individual temples, stupas and monasteries impress in different ways – for their evocative frescoes, their imposing bulk or their graceful simplicity – but it’s the broader sweep that tends to stay etched in visitors’ memories: the spectacle of hot air balloons rising from behind stupas at dawn, the cool, calm relief of temple interiors in the heat of the day, or grand sunset vistas viewed from terraces. This stretch of the Ayeyarwady River has a long history of settlement, only rising to prominence in its own right with its 42nd king, Anawrahta, who came to the throne in 1044.

Although there are now affordable flights from Bangkok to Mandalay, most people still start their visit in Yangon (Rangoon). This former capital makes a great introduction to the country, with evocative colonial-era buildings, some of the country’s best restaurants and the unmissable Shwedagon Paya – the holiest Buddhist site in the country. Relatively few tourists head southeast from Yangon, other than to the precariously balanced Golden Rock at Kyaiktiyo, but Mawlamyine and Hpa-an are great places to hang out, whether you’re exploring caves full of Buddhist art, sleeping at a mountain-top monastery or visiting home-based workshops. West of Yangon are a handful of beaches, with Ngapali the most highly regarded, but Chaung Tha and Ngwe Saung much more affordable. Most travellers instead hasten north to Mandalay, the hub for ‘Upper Burma’ and the base for visiting the remains of several former capital cities, or to Bagan further west for its stunning

A novice monk prays at Kyaiktiyo Pagoda, Mon State

temple-strewn plains. East of Mandalay is Kalaw, the starting point for some great walks. A trek from Kalaw is one way to reach the magnificent Inle Lake, with its stilt villages and famous leg-rowing fishermen. If time allows, a trip on the Ayeyarwady (Irrawaddy) River around Katha and Bhamo offers a great chance to meet locals, as do the hiking routes around Hsipaw in Shan State, which pass through ethnic minority villages.

Mergui To describe the Mergui Archipelago as untouched is almost understating its sense of seclusion.

Its borders were thrown open barely a year ago and already the madding crowds are thronging to Burma. Head down south, however, and youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll find a remote region of more than 800 islands whose white sands and crystal waters welcome fewer than 2,000 visitors a year. To describe the Mergui Archipelago as untouched is almost understating its sense of seclusion. But the smart set are slowly discovering its charms thanks to savvy charter outfits such as Burma Boating, which offers five-night itineraries aboard a classic two-masted yacht. Virtually unknown to the outside world, the Mergui Archipelago is located in Myanmarâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s (Burmaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s) remote south: a group of 800 deserted islands that lie at the heart of our sailing area.

Think white beaches lined with palm trees and dense jungle. Think swimming in azure water amongst colourful reef fish, spotting corals, and collecting seashells. Now, picture eagles circling above, gibbons and monitor lizards eyeing you from the thickets, while a sundowner is being mixed for you on board the yacht. And best of all: you have this entire experience to yourself. You can sail for days on end and meet not a soul but the odd fisherman in a dugout canoe. Just across from the Thai border, the archipelago opened to foreigners as recently as the late 1990s. With only a few of the 800 islands sparsely populated and a couple dozen visitors to the entire area each month, the Mergui Archipelago remains one of the

Sunrise from the deck of the Meta IV designed by the naval architect Thomas E. Colvin who gave the vessel her beautiful shape and robust hull.

planet’s most unspoilt destinations. Under full sails, heeling over, the wind and sun in your face, salt on your lips, and no land in sight. Or, a leisurely cruise to the next beach, feet up on the helm, drink to hand, and watching the dolphins jump. Whether you’re an experienced sailor or on board a ship for the first time, you will love Myanmar’s Mergui Archipelago, an area so versatile and large that you can beach hop for weeks on end or go on multi-day blue-water passages. Or both, of course. The Mergui Archipelago lies in tropical waters and temperatures are constantly warm and pleasant, with average highs ranging between 28-33°C (8492°F) and average lows between 20-24°C (69-76°F). Sailing is possible throughout the year but there are major differences between the seasons. The best time for sailing in the Mergui is between November and April. Conditions during December to February are perfect, with warm, sunny weather, a steady 20 knots of wind, and calm seas. March and April have less wind, which is why they are the best time for diving and snorkelling with clear water. From May to July there are strong onshore winds and a larger swell. There are occasional hurricanes in the Mergui from May to June. The rainy season is from July to October. Even when winds are strong and swells are sizeable, the numerous large islands provide hundreds of protected anchorages for any season, as well as “hurricane holes” for stormy days. While some areas of the archipelago have not been entirely charted and explored, the region provides safe sailing, with few under-water obstacles or dangerous reefs. The entire island group is replete with good and safe anchorages in sandy or muddy grounds.

FOLLOW THE OLD SPICE TRADE ROUTE : From May to September, during the rainy season in Myanmar, Meta IV sails from Burma to Borneo, following the old Spice Trade Route travelled by merchants and adventurers over the centuries. The cruise will take you from Burma to Phuket in Thailand, continuing through Malaysia, Singapore, Indonesia, Brunei, all the way to Sabah in Borneo - and back. This is a journey of discovery and adventure through the heart of Southeast Asia. Expect ancient port towns, World Heritage Sites, national parks and gorgeous waters. You will listen to the sounds of the world’s oldest rainforest, sail up jungle rivers, watch orangutans and sample exotic delicacies on local markets - there will be endless opportunities for outings and excursions.

The Raja Laut is a magnificent gaff-topsail schooner built in the tradition of the 19th century Baltic traders. The 100 ft hull is entirely built of iron wood.Behind the classic lines is a modern luxury sailing yacht, equipped with a 300hp engine, watermak- er, and the latest in navigation and satellite technology. The six cabins each have a rich timber interior, en-suite bathrooms, air-conditioning, hot showers and electric toilets. With her beautiful cabins and her recreational equipment Raja Laut has all one needs for the perfect escape at sea.

JOIN IN CHARTER Book a cabin, join a cruise and discover the Mergui Archilepalago’s 800 remote islands, a national park, white beaches and indigenous people who roam the archipelago in dugout canoes. The Mergui Archipelago is one of Asia’s last island worlds, which remain virtually untouched. Be one of the first to visit this paradise. Sailing aboard the yachts Meta IV and Raja Laut you will swim, snorkel and laze on empty beaches - this is the perfect way to discover paradise in style. “Myanmar’s Mergui Archipelago is one of the planet’s most unspoilt destinations and remains virtually untouched by tourism” Adrian Zdrada, Sales Director - Burma Boating Be one of the first to visit this paradise.

Day one: You will be met in Kawthaung (Myanmar) or in Ra- nong on the Thai side of the border and you’ll be on board in no time. Relax on deck with a welcome drink while the yachts effortlessly glides to the Mergui. Spend the rest of the day on the beach of Hasting Island. Day two: Early in the morning you will arrive at Lampi Island, the largest in the region. You will enjoy brunch on board and visit a village of Moken sea nomads, buying fresh seafood for dinner before sailing northwest to the gorgeous Clara island. The water is exceptionally clear here. Day three: It’s a beautiful cruise to Pila island and you will try your luck fishing for tuna. Once there you will enjoy a bbq on the long, white beach and go for a jungle walk along the little creek. Before a relaxed sundowner, and cool down by snorkelling in the azure water. Day four: Picking up the east winds the yacht speeds towards the Mid Group.

Guests relax and take in the sights onboard the Raja Laut

You could spend a whole week exploring it’s small islands, hidden coves and undiscovered beaches, so Burma Boating choose the prettiest: Frost and Potter islands. Day five and six: Spend most of the day on the water, only stopping for a dip in the open ocean. Some get busy sailing, others lie on deck and watch the dolphins jump. It’s dinner on the beach at Zadetkyi island. After brunch the next day you sail back into Kawthaung.

exploring the majestic

Ayeyarwady river

A country of smiles… a land of grace…a people of welcome…a place of charm and culture….Myanmar is slowly unfolding its charms and hidden treasures to a world hungry for new adventures, new experiences. A land that time had almost forgotten has at last opened her doors to those looking for wonderment and places to treasure. Sail downstream from Mandalay via Pyay and Bagan to Myanmar’s biggest city Yangon. From the river you will be provided with fantastic views of the passing scenery and the shore excursions will allow you to meet the local people in their villages.

SANCTUARY ANANDA The luxurious all suite ship will take you in style on voyages of breathtaking beauty and discovery on the mysterious rivers of Myanmar (Burma). You’ll visit the majestic Ayeyarwady between Bhamo and Yangon visiting temples, pagodas, palaces and monasteries along the way, while journeys on its great tributary, the Chindwin, will take you to places visitors rarely see – through the jungles of the north, forgotten villages, ancient towns almost to the Indian border. The Sanctuary Ananda offers 20 spacious suites on three decks, the luxurious Owner’s suite, a sundeck with an outdoor pool and the Kansi panorama lounge.

DAY 1 MANDALAY Begin with a tour of Mandalay including the Mahamuni Pagoda, Shwenandaw Monastery and Kuthodaw Pagoda, then, after sailing past the monasteries of Sagaing and visiting a Ywataung silversmith, either see silk weavers in Amarapura or witness traditional village life in Sin Kyun. Finally visit U Bein Bridge. This long teak bridge snakes across Taungthaman Lake and it really is a spectacular spot to enjoy sunset.

DAY 2 MINGUN Explore Mingun by ox cart, taking in the unfinished Mingun Pagoda, huge Mingun Bell and Myatheindan Pagoda. After lunch, sail south, enjoying talks, longyi (sarong) and thanaka (make-up) demonstrations, or a cooking class before dinner. Early evening, Sanctuary Ananda will drop anchor at the confluence; this

Fresh air and fine food await in one of four onboard dining experiences

is the ideal time to ask the barmen to create your favourite sundowner as an aperitif in a setting you’ll never forget. Without wanting to spoil the surprise, while you enjoy your dinner, keep your eyes out for beautiful traditional lanterns floating past down the river...

DAY 3 PAKOKKU TO BAGAN Take a trishaw to Pakokku’s local vegetable market and traditional cigar factory then, come afternoon, visit the Htilominlo temple of Bagan and the

lacquerware workshops of Myinkaba before sunset on the terrace of the ancient Pyathatgyi Temple. Back on the Ananda, experience a traditional Shan dinner with our Captain as well as see a local performance.

DAY 4 BAGAN TO SALE Start with sunrise meditation or a hot-air-balloon tour (available for an extra charge). After breakfast visit the busting Nyaung U market, where traders meet daily to buy and sell fruit and vegetables. Next, on to Shwezigon Pagoda - an iconic landmark. In the afternoon explore Sale and its Yoke Sone Kyaung monastery, and Tha-ta-na Kyaung temple.

DAY 5 MAGWE & MINBU TO MINHLA We’ll spend the morning sailing to Magwe, and this leg of our adventure includes passing Minbu village around lunchtime. Nga Ka Pwe Taung, meaning

‘Dragon Lake’, is a unique gas-and-mud-bubbling pool set here in what seems like a lunar landscape. Not many tourists have the opportunity to stray to this part of Myanmar. Around 2pm we’ll dock in Magwe and take you to Myat Than Lun Paya, a stunning 1929-built pagoda of solid-gold bricks set on a river-view hilltop. Later this afternoon we will carry on along the river towards Minhla where we’ll dock overnight. Minhla Fort, the dramatic military construction here, which harks back to the Konbaung era.

DAY 6 MINHLA FORT TO THAYET At 9am we will take a walking tour of the Minhla Fort. An unusual construction built for the Burmese king by Italian engineers, it was intended to resist a British invasion in the second Anglo-Burmese War. Next, visit the charming village of Thawutti. Spend the rest of the day sailing, giving you the opportunity to drink in the magic of the Myanmar countryside, riverlife and sheer beauty of the place.

The time on board gives guests the opportunity to learn more about the traditions and customs of Myanmar from cigar making to cookery demonstrations to lectures on the history and arts of the country.

DAY 7 THAYET TO PYAY The next chapter in our adventure includes the mystical white pagodas and charming colonial houses as we explore postcard-perfect rural Thayet on foot. Built by the British in 1887, Myanmar’s first golf course is also here. Pyay (pronounced by some as ‘pyay’ and ‘pyi’ by others) is a charismatic dock with a startlingly beautiful pagoda. After lunch we will have a look around this destination formerly referred to as Prome by the British, this is a highlight of this cruise. Shwe Daung village is next on our day’s agenda. Look out for the only Buddha wearing gold sunglasses at Shwe Myet Hman pagoda, before we head back to Sanctuary Ananda about 6.30pm.

DAY 8 PYAY TO HTONBO This morning, before returning to see more of Pyay, we will visit Thayekhittata, an old Pyu Dynasty city; on display is a wealth of different-sized stupas, built between the 4th and the 13th centuries. Worthy of a pilgrimage in itself, Shwesandaw Paya is not only impressive in scale, but this temple is celebrated for housing supposed strands of Buddha’s hair and also an actual tooth which takes the form of a golden bell which is revealed only during November’s full-moon festival. From this hilltop pagoda, it is impossible not to be awestruck by the vision of the 10-metre-high Buddha statue. Returning to the boat at in time for lunch, you’ll be able to enjoy an afternoon on board as we travel 29 miles to Htonbo.

DAY 9

in between charging passing boats by carving hundreds of Buddhas right here into the steep cliffside. At about 10am we will pause at Kenaung village; if you’re lucky you’ll get a chance to see locals having a game of chinlone - a traditional team sport, which involves balletic moves from the players. After lunch, as we sail 68 miles south towards Zalon, this is another chance to savour your time on this extraordinary riverboat. As the ship continues south, enjoy a restful on your private balcony or take full advantage of Santuary Ananda’s extensive services and facilities.

DAY 10 ZALON & DANUPHYU Serene from sunrise meditation and yoga practise, you’ll be raring for our morning visit to the small port town of Zalon. Here we’ll whisk you on the local tricycle rickshaws to see the Buddhas in the remarkable Pyi Taw Pyan; these bronze figures were controversially stolen by the British Army but then returned by order of Queen Victoria. After sailing south to Danuphyu, we will dock and visit a monastery and the Maha Bandula memorial at Pali University. It was from here that General Maha Bandula led a Burmese defensive against British troops during the Anglo-Burmese War.

DAY 11 DANUPHYU TO YANGON Your last day will be the perfect chance to relax and reflect on all that you’ve seen and done. We’ll spend today sailing downstream, which means you have ample time to make the most of the many luxuries on board Ananda. Maybe have a spa treatment or relax by the pool with a book from our library? Or just enjoy gliding through the soul-stirring riverscapes that so few foreigners get to see... Tonight’s farewell dinner features a special performance.

AKAUK TAUNG TO KENAUNG TO ZALUN Breakfast as we sail, before we drop anchor at Akauk Taung; here you’ll be able to capture the best possible photos of these truly staggering caves. Meaning ‘Tax Mountain’, this quirky site takes its name from all the 19th century toll-takers who would kill time

DAY 12 YANGON The ship will arrive late morning for you to check out in Yangon, formerly the capital of Burma known as Rangoon.

Viáť&#x2021;t Nam Astonishingly exotic and utterly compelling, Vietnam is a country of breathtaking natural beauty with an incredible heritage that quickly becomes addictive.

Packed with charming colonial architecture, Buddhist temples and pagodas, the Old Quarter, is located in Hoan Kiem District

Unforgettable experiences are everywhere in Vietnam. There’s the sublime: gazing over a surreal seascape of limestone islands from the deck of a Chinese junk in Halong Bay. The ridiculous: taking 10 minutes just to cross the street through a tsunami of motorbikes in Hanoi. The inspirational: exploring the world’s most spectacular cave systems in Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park. The comical: watching a moped loaded with honking pigs weave a wobbly route along a country lane. And the contemplative: witnessing a solitary grave in a cemetery of tens of thousands of war victims. The Thais may grumble, but in Southeast Asia nothing really comes close: Vietnamese food is that good. Incredibly subtle in its flavours and outstanding in its diversity, Vietnamese cooking is a fascinating draw for travellers – the dozens of cooking schools in Hoi An are testament to this. Geography plays a crucial role, with Chinese flavours influencing the soups of northern Vietnam, spices sparking up southern cuisine and myriad herbs and complex techniques typifying the central region, rightly renowned as Vietnam’s epicurean epicentre.Big Nature, Booming Cities If you want visual dramatics, Vietnam delivers. Cruise an azure ocean pierced by surreal-looking limestone islands in Halong Bay, slalom through the majestic inland karst mountains of Cao Bang. Hike mountain tracks and explore tribal villages near Sapa and Bac Ha. Then witness the spectacular sandy bays of the central coastline and explore the reefs and coves of the Cham and Con Dao Islands. Highway 1 is near-relentlessly urban, so get off it at regular intervals to see the astonishing cave systems of Phong Nha, national parks like Cat Tien, and the bewitching backwaters of the Mekong Delta. Finally, no visit would be complete without experiencing the energy of big-city life in Vietnam’s capital Hanoi, the grand old lady of the Orient, and Ho Chi Minh City, the engine room of the economy and the nation. If you’ve got the bills, Vietnam’s got the thrills and chills. Some require a little physical effort, like motorbiking switchback after switchback up the jaw-dropping Hai Van Pass in central Vietnam. Others require even more sweat: kitesurfing the tropical oceanic waters off Mui Ne or hiking the evergreen hills around Bac Ha or Sapa. And when you’re done with all that adrenaline stuff, there’s plenty of horizontal ‘me’ time to relish. Vietnam has outstanding spas – from marble temples of treatments, to simple

family run massage salons with backpacker-friendly rates. Vietnamese people are energetic, direct, sharp in commerce and resilient by nature. The locals love a laugh and you’ll have plenty of opportunities to socialise with them and hear their tales. Generally the rule is the more uncomfortable the (always tiny) seats in the bar or cafe, the more fun you’ll have. Poor in parts but never squalid, Vietnam is developing at an astonishing pace and inevitably there are some issues to consider (including some minor scams). However, on the whole this is an extremely safe (apart from the traffic!) and wonderfully rewarding country to explore. This is a country of myriad influences and reference points. In the south, Indian and Hindu culture had a lasting influence in the Cham temples and spicy regional cuisine, spiked with chilli and tempered with coconut. Head north and Chinese connections are far more apparent. Between these two competing cultures, you’ll find a quintessential Vietnam in the central provinces: the graceful historic old port of Hoi An, and the royal tombs, pagodas and imperial cuisine of Hue. Oh, and there’s more, far more. Factor in an enduring French colonial legacy, which is evident in Hanoi’s graceful boulevards, in Ho Chi Minh City’s stately museums and in the crispy baguettes and coffee culture you’ll find on every street corner. Add the American interlude, more than 50 hill tribes, and of course the proud (battle-tested and victorious) ruling Communist Party ideology and you’ve got Vietnam: heady, intoxicating and unique. Vietnam is a nation going places. Fast. Its people are energetic, direct, sharp in commerce and resilient by nature. This is an outrageously fun country to explore, the locals love a laugh (and a drink) and you’ll have plenty of opportunities to socialise with them and hear their tales. The American War is over, and yet its impact endures – you’ll find reminders of that cataclysmic conflict everywhere you travel. That said, the country was never broken and emerged with its pride intact. Poor in parts but never squalid, Vietnam is developing at an astonishing pace. For travellers, there are issues to consider (including minor scams), but little real danger – on the whole it’s a safe, wonderfully rewarding and incredibly varied country to explore.

SOFITEL LEGEND METROPOLE HOTEL HANOI Step back into history at Hanoï’s most storied 5-star hotel. A Grand Dame of Southeast Asia Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoï welcomes guests to experience her colonial grandeur and timeless elegance. Located steps from the Opera House in Hanoï’s French Quarter this legendary property brings guests into intimate contact with the opulence of another era. Surround yourself in heritage as you stroll stately corridors and explore a dramatic past. Behind its classical white façade green shutters original wrought iron details and stately wood paneling reside over a century of stories. Encounter an iconic landmark making cherished memories since 1901.

DAY 1: HANOI Get settled at your hotel (we recommend the Sofitel Legend Metropole Hotel) and then take a walk or cyclo ride around the Old Quarter and Hoan Kiem Lake. DAY 2: HANOI TO LAO CAI (SAPA) Enjoy a morning of touring the main sights in the Hanoi Citadel, including Ho Chi Minh’s Mausoleum (before 11am), House, and Museum, and the One-Pillar Pagoda. In the early evening, catch the overnight train for Lao Cai (best on a Victoria sleeper car). DAY 3: LAO CAI TO SAPA Arrive in Lao Cai at 6am and hop on a bus for transfer to Sapa. Check in to your hotel (we recommend the Topas Ecolodge) and take an afternoon walk down into the valley lined with rice terraces to the Cat Cat Village, or hire a guide for an all-day hike (after a short jeep ride) from Lao Cai to Ta Van. Alternatively, just take in the little town of Sapa, the rice-terraced valley below, and the central market crowded with

According to legend, Hoan Kiem Lake is where Le Loi returned his magic sword to the Golden Turtle.

Hmong people. DAY 4: SAPA TO BAC HA AND BACK TO HANOI If it’s a Sunday, take a day trip to the market town outside of Lao Cai called Bac Ha, the region’s most colourful hilltribe market. Otherwise, plan to spend part of the day trekking (contact Topas or Handspan), and then catch an early evening overnight train from Lao Cai back to Hanoi (factor in the few hours from Bac Ha or Sapa to Lao Cai station). DAY 5: LAO CAI TO HANOI Arrive at 6am in the capital and take

Heritage Line’s family of boutique cruise ships includes “Three Sisters” in Halong Bay, the youngest of whom is the coquettish Violet. The Violet is named after the beautiful Violet Chirita, a delicate purple-flowered plant that grows nowhere else but on the rocky slopes of Halong Bay. Like her namesake, The Violet is small and exquisite.

some time to rest at your hotel. Explore the Old Quarter and Hoan Kiem, and maybe do a bit of shopping. Catch a show at the Thang Long Water Puppet Theater in the evening, or hit some of the town’s fine-dining establishments or nightlife. DAY 6: HANOI TO HALONG BAY Leave early in the morning for a 3-hour drive to the pier at Halong City, and then board the Halong Violet for two nights. You’ll dine aboard the ship, explore various cave sites and islands, and then sleep aboard the boat moored in quiet bays. DAY 8: HALONG BAY TO HANOI AND ON TO HUE Awake to sunlight reflecting off the high limestone formations of stunning Halong Bay. Have breakfast before returning to the pier and making the 3-hour road connection to Hanoi. Catch the afternoon (4:30pm) flight from Hanoi to Hue (or overnight in Hanoi and fly in the morning). DAY 9: HUE Set out on a tour by bicycle or cyclo to the central Hue Citadel and the ruins of the old Imperial City. In the afternoon, you can arrange a car to a few sights on the outskirts of town. You can arrange a boat to see the likes of the Thien Mu Pagoda and a few of Hue’s many imperial tombs (best are the tombs of Khai Dinh and Minh Mang Tomb or Tu Duc). In the evening, enjoy dinner at Tropical Garden or Club Garden, and then stroll along the Perfume River near the Trang Tien Bridge. DAY 10: HUE TO HOI AN In the afternoon, leave by car for Hoi An. Along the way, stop at Lang Co Beach, the overlook at Hai Van Pass, the Cham Museum in Danang, and, time permitting, the Marble Mountains. Overnight in Hoi An. If you arrive before the shops close, place an order for your tailored clothes. DAY 11: HOI AN

Explore Hoi An before hitting the beach to unwind and relax. DAY 12: HOI AN TO NHA TRANG (VIA DANANG) Fly from Danang (via a trip to the Marble Mountains in the morning if you’ve yet to go) and settle in Nha Trang for a few days of beach time. Rest and relax at the Evason Ana Mandara Resort or one of the many good budget options around. DAY 13: NHA TRANG Enjoy the beach, take a scuba course, hop on an allday boat trip to outlying islands, or hit the city’s few nearby sights (the Po Ngar Cham Towers or the Alexandre Yersin Museum). Morning trips to the city market or the fish market near the Po Ngar Cham Towers are popular for photographers. But don’t feel pressed -- Nha Trang is a place to kick back, eat good seafood, and rest. DAY 14: NHA TRANG TO HO CHI MINH CITY You might consider adding a few days at this point and scoot up to the temperate hill town of Dalat or tour part of the Central Highlands. Otherwise, fly to Ho Chi Minh City. DAY 15: HO CHI MINH CITY In the morning, get an early start at Giac Lam Pagoda, Ho Chi Minh City’s oldest, and then tour Chinatown and some temples, as well as the large Chinese market, Binh Te Market (all in far-off District 5), before returning to the city center and Ben Thanh Market -- a good place to wander and pick up a few ditties. Stop for lunch at Pho 2000, just adjacent to the market. Time permitting, hit the War Remnants Museum or the Reunification Palace. Enjoy a meal at Quan An Ngon Restaurant, Vietnam’s finest purveyor of authentic Vietnamese cuisine in an authentic local setting (there are lots of gussiedup high-end Vietnamese restaurants in town, but funky Ngon takes the cake). Depart.

Cambodia

Ascend to the realm of the gods, Angkor Wat. Descend into hell at Tuol Sleng Prison. With a history both inspiring and depressing, Cambodia delivers an intoxicating present.

Contemporary Cambodia is the successor state to the mighty Khmer empire, which, during the Angkorian period, ruled much of what is now Laos, Thailand and Vietnam. The remains of this empire can be seen at the fabled temples of Angkor, monuments unrivalled in scale and grandeur in southeast Asia. The traveller’s first glimpse of Angkor Wat, the ultimate expression of Khmer genius, is sublime and is matched by only a few select spots on earth, such as Machu Picchu or Petra. Despite having the eighth wonder of the world in its backyard, Cambodia’s real treasure is its people. The Khmers have been to hell and back, struggling through years of bloodshed, poverty and political instability. Thanks to an unbreakable spirit and infectious optimism, they have prevailed with their smiles intact. No visitor comes away without a measure of admiration and affection for the inhabitants of this enigmatic kingdom. Just as Angkor is more than its wat, so too is Cambodia more than its temples. The chaotic yet charismatic capital of Phnom Penh is a hub of political intrigue, economic vitality and intellectual debate. All too often overlooked by hit-and-run tourists ticking off Angkor on a regional tour, the revitalised city is finally earning plaudits in its own right thanks to a gorgeous riverside location, a cultural renaissance, and a wining and dining scene to rival anywhere in the region. Siem Reap and Phnom Penh may be the heavyweights, but to some extent they are a bubble, a world away from the Cambodia of the countryside. This is the place to experience the rhythm of rural life and timeless landscapes of dazzling rice paddies and swaying sugar palms. The South Coast is fringed by tropical islands, with just a handful of beach huts in sight. Inland from the coast lie the Cardamom Mountains, part of a vast tropical wilderness that provides a home to elusive wildlife and is the gateway to emerging ecotourism adventures. The mighty Mekong River cuts through the country and is home to some of the region’s last remaining freshwater dolphins. The northeast is a world unto itself, its wild and mountainous landscapes a home for Cambodia’s ethnic minorities and an abundance of natural attractions.

Angkor Wat was first a Hindu, then subsequently a Buddhist, temple complex in Cambodia and the largest religious monument in the world.

the mighty

mekong river

The mighty Mekong: From its very source in the Tibetan Highlands, all the 4500 kilometers down its upper and middle reaches to its sprawling coastal delta at the South China Sea, the mother of South-East Asia’s rivers is the life-line of six countries – China, Myanmar, Laos, Thailand, Cambodia and Vietnam – and the key landscape feature of the Indochinese Peninsula and honored with epic titles such as Mother of All Waters, Nine-Dragon River and River of Rocks.

THE JAHAN Plying the slow, swirling waters of the Mekong, The Jahan is Heritage Line’s most romantic cruise liner. Considered the brother of The Jayavarman in Heritage Line’s “family” of cruise ships, this magnificent vessel was named after the Indian emperor Shah Jahan, who ruled the Mughal Empire from 1628 to 1658. A great patron of architecture and the arts, Shah Jahan oversaw the construction of many legendary sites, including India’s dazzling Red Fort, and the famed 777 gardens of Kashmir. This cultured monarch is a fitting namesake for The Jahan, which evokes the opulent vessels of British India. No expense has been spared in the interior or exterior decorations, which showcase the talents of local woodworkers, weavers and artists.

THE LOST CIVILIZATION DAY 1 “GOOD MORNING SAIGON” HO CHI MINH – MY THO – CAI BE Bid farewell to the hustle and bustle of Saigon as you travel 70 kilometers south by land to My Tho to embark your boutique Ship. You will be served a refreshing welcome drink as the ship steadily glides along the Mekong. Bathe in the fading sunset on the balcony followed by a briefing at the lounge. Later, a welcome dinner awaits. When approaching Cai Be, the Ship drops anchor to moor midstream where the river is several kilometers wide. Including dinner. Overnight in Cai Be.

DAY 2: CAI BE – SA DEC – CHAU DOC The day – in fact everyday – starts with an invigorating Tai Chi lesson on the sun deck, just as the sun begins its gentle glow. Coffee and tea awaits the early bird. The day’s tour starts with a visit to Cai Be’s boisterous and colorful

Life along the banks of the Mekong River in Cambodia

floating market on board a traditional sampan (a flat bottomed traditional Vietnamese wooden boat). During the languid ride, discover breathtaking landscapes along the river and quaff the rustic life on the Mekong Delta. The cruise will halt intermittently to allow you to observe how rice paste, rice cookies and coconut candies are made, along with the Longan fruit drying process. After touring the canals, head to an ancient house surrounded by fruit orchards before heading to the Ship for lunch. In the afternoon, you will cruise to Sa Dec. Upon arrival, embark a traditional sampan to tour Binh Thanh Island and

its manmade canals. Here, every villager is involved in the process of growing and processing water hyacinths into natural fibre floor mats and rattan baskets. You then board the Ship for a tranquil evening cruise towards Chau Doc. Including breakfast, lunch and dinner. The ship will moor midstream overnight near Chau Doc.

DAY 5: PHNOM PENH – KAMPONG CHAM Departing before the break of dawn from Phnom Penh with a stop at the little known Chong Koh silk weaving village. You then return to the Ship and will cruise past the Mekong’s tranquil villages, exhilarating river life and sun-hardened fishermen on their shift boats. Tour the rural Angkor Ban village where time stood still. You are transported back a hundred years into an era unspoilt by modernity. The houses here are truly rustic, made by hand and without any concrete. But most of all, you feel overwhelmed by the unbridled warmth of the villagers. Travelers can take part in the daily activities of the villagers to experience village life first hand. Then, you head back to the Ship to cruise towards Kampong Cham. Including breakfast, lunch and dinner. Overnight in Kampong Cham.

DAY 6: KAMPONG CHAM – WAT HANCHEY You will wake up in the small hours of the morn-

ing, truly energized to embark on a land journey to the pre-Angkorian temple of Wat Hanchey. Travelers either take a motor-taxi or climb 291 steps to the top. Located at the top of a hill overlooking the river, it offers one of the most breath-taking views in Cambodia. Built in the 8th century, this ancient structure, together with a bigger and newer addition underscores the superb architecture of the Chenla Empire which predates the mighty Angkor temple complex. You even get to engage in light banter with some of the monks in the area. You will return to the Ship to witness a blessing ceremony performed by orange-clad local monks. When the tide allows, you will enjoy a surprise sojourn in zodiacs (inflatable boats) to the nearby bank to swim in the teacoloured Mekong River, an experience that will, no doubt, dominate dinner conversations in the weeks to come. You then cruise towards Kampong Cham to visit Wat Nokor, a wat built within the ruins of an ancient temple which holds a timeless story. On the way back to the Ship, you will visit an orphanage. Along the way, you will have to maneuver a 2-kilometer rickety bamboo bridge. Including breakfast, lunch and dinner. Overnight cruise to Kampong Chhnang.

DAY 7: KAMPONG CHAM – KAMPONG CHHNANG Before the sun peeks over the horizon, the cruiser sets sail towards Kampong Chhnang on the Tonle River – an amazingly narrow river – which glides through leafy swaths of the Southeast Asian jungle. You are greeted by cacophonous children who

wave enthusiastically early in the morning when they bring their livestock for a bath in the meandering Tonle River. Then you approach Kampong Chhnang, Cambodia’s “waterworld” where everything is on stilts balanced on water rich soil– it’s an awesome sight whilst practicing Tai Chi on the deck. Here you take a motorboat excursion to the landing, followed by a short bus trip to see the Khmerstyled pottery at the Aundaung Russey village. Then, it is back to the river for an adventurous motorboat excursion to the wetlands, floating houses and fish farms in the region. You then return to the Ship for lunch whilst cruising the narrow and meandering Tonle River. Your floating sanctuary will then cruise gently, in the afternoon, along the narrow and meandering Tonle River. In the evening, a sumptuous spread will be served. And for the big surprise – bring along your dance shoes and learn to jiggle the Cambodian way with the staff doubling up as dance instructors. (If you can’t dance, do not fret. Neither can the staff) Including breakfast, lunch and dinner. Overnight in Kampong Chhnang.

DAY 8: TONLE SAP – SIEM REAP This great lake dominates Cambodia and is the largest freshwater lake in Asia with abundant birdlife. This lake is so wide that one cannot see its shores from the middle of the lake. Enjoy the stillness of the water and the quiet tranquility on the way to Siem Reap. The water level varies a great deal according to the time of the year and the amount of rainfall recorded. Thus, minor changes to the itinerary may occur during different seasons. The cruise comes to an end as you reach this city of the fabled Angkor temple complex. You will cross the Tonle Lake at dawn and at 09h00, you will disembark at the Siem Reap Port for onward coach transfer to the drop off point in town. Including breakfast.

A villagers boat along the banks of the Mekong River

laos

After years of war and isolation, Southeast Asiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most pristine environment, intact cultures and quite possibly the most chilled-out people on earth mean destination Laos is fast earning cult status among

The Kuang Si Falls, sometimes spelled Kuang Xi or known as Tat Kuang Si Waterfalls, is a three tier waterfall about 29 kilometres south of Luang Prabang.

Laos is developing quickly but still has much of the tradition that has sadly disappeared elsewhere in the region. Village life is refreshingly simple and even in Vientiane it’s hard to believe this sort of languid riverfront life exists in a national capital. Then, of course, there is the historic royal city of Luang Prabang, where watching as hundreds of saffron-robed monks move silently among centuries-old monasteries is as romantic a scene as you’ll experience anywhere in Asia. Away from the cities, there is so much more to see; the Plain of Jars in Xieng Khuang Province, the forested mountains of Northern Laos, the gothic limestone karsts around the backpacker-haven Vang Vieng and in the deep south, past the market town Pakse, is Si Phan Don (Four Thousand Islands), where the mighty Mekong spreads out and all the hammocks are taken. The Lao wilderness is drawing travellers looking for nature, adventure or both. Kayaking, rafting, rock-climbing and biking are all available, but it’s the community-based trekking that is most popular because it combines spectacular natural attractions with the chance to experience the ‘real Laos’ with a village homestay – while spending your money where it’s needed most. There is undoubtedly a growing tourist trail in Laos, but that just means there’s plenty of roads off Rte 13 where you can make your own trail. After all, half the fun of travelling here is in the travel itself – the people you meet, chickens you share seats with, wrong turns you take and lào-láo you drink with the smiling family at the end of the road less travelled.

HIGHLIGHTS Discover the beauty of UNESCO World Heritage listed Luang Prabang Explore the mysterious Pak Ou Caves Walk amongst the archeological site of the Plain of Jars Watch the sunset on the banks of the Mekong river in Vientiane Take a refreshing break to the fertile rich Boloven Plateau Journey to Southern Laos’ 4000 islands and marvel at South East Asia’s biggest waterfall, Khone Phapheng

LEVEL: ADVENTURER DAY 1: JOURNEY TO LUANG PRABANG Once you have completed immigration formalities in Huay Xai, walk down to the left of the immigration building to where the slow boats to Luang Prabang are moored. These used to be commercial vessels for which you had to haggle hard to get a decent price for passage, and you shared the journey with farmers (and often their livestock). Now there are boats specifically assigned for tourists. The journey to Luang Prabang is 2 days of scenic views, sticky rice, and if you are lucky with your fellow passengers, convivial chitchat. You will stop for the night in Pakbeng. Be on the lookout for scams (and this, sadly, includes the children). Don’t let people carry your bags for you when you get off the boat. This once very basic little one-street town situated on a rocky bend of the river is now fairly developed. There are a number of guesthouses and even some midrange hotels and chichi cafes.

DAY 2: ARRIVAL IN LUANG PRABANG Continue your slow trip down the Mekong. Enjoy the dramatic forested limestone mountain scenery, the passing rapids, and the village life along the riverbank. You will arrive in Luang Prabang at about 4pm. Once you have checked into your hotel, have a wander and take in the tranquil beauty of this most beautiful of towns. Enjoy the coffee, the ba-

guettes, the wine, and the sunset.

DAY 3: LUANG PRABANG Tour the area’s temples and sights. Try a bowl of Vietnamese pho for lunch. Have a gander around the central market in the daytime and the night market in the evening.

DAY 4: PAK OU CAVES Visit Pak Ou Caves and see the massed Buddhas. In the afternoon enjoy a herbal sauna and massage -- Luang Prabang has become famous for them. Once suitably relaxed, head to where the long-distance ferries stop and watch the sunset as the sun glows red behind the mountain on the opposite bank of the river.

DAY 5: ARRIVAL IN PHONSAVAN Take the bus to Phonsavan. It will be your base from which to explore the Plain of Jars. It’s a grueling 10 hours but the incredible scenery is worth the slog. Phonsavan is not a very interesting town (in fact, it’s downright dreary). Get fed and watered and call it an early night.

DAY 6: THE PLAIN OF JARS The best way to see the Plain of Jars is by booking a tour with one of the guesthouses in town. Most

BELMOND LA RESIDENCE PHOU VAO A beguiling blend of East meets West, Belmond La Résidence Phou Vao is an intimate tropical resort with one of the most magical views in, well, pretty much anywhere. A reflective pond extends from the lobby into the horizon, the infinity pool plunges into the jungle and the beautifully proportioned rooms, finished in rosewood, put the luxe into Laos. Wake up to ethereal Luang Prabang views on a misty morning. The restaurant is a Lao culinary immersion of rare refinement and realise reincarnation is a reality at the fab Spa.

of them offer a package, costing about $14 per person. You can do it on your own, but it’s not recommended -- since the jars are spread out in a number of groupings you might miss something significant.

DAY 7: ROUTE 13 TO VANG VIENG Take the bus to Vang Vieng. This is an 8-hour drive where once again you are treated to some fantastic scenery along Rte. 13.

DAY 8: VANG VIENG Cross the Nam Song River and spend the morning wandering around the limestone outcrops on the other side. After heading back to town for lunch, enjoy the pointless but fun activity of “tubing” -- drifting down the river on an inflated tractor inner tube.

DAY 9: ARRIVAL IN VIENTIANE Take a bus or minibus to Vientiane (about 3 hr.). After lunch, take in some

Learning to be a Mahout for a day

of the sights such as Wat Pha Kaeo and Wat Si Saket. Have dinner in one of the big Lao riverside restaurants by the Mekong.

DAY 10: VIENTIANE Spend the morning visiting the National Museum and then take a drive around the city, being sure to pass the impressive but very Gallic Patuxai Monument. In the afternoon, visit Talat Sao Market to shop for special Lao fabric and jewelry, or even DVDs and computer games if that’s what you fancy.

DESTINATIONS I N S P I R E D

T R A V E L

Marmalade Toast, bespoke travel & destination management Suite 318, Private Bag X31, Knysna, 6570 email: info@marmaladetoast.co.za web: http://www.marmaladetoast.co.za +27 10 500 8618 Emergency contact: +27 72 800 3165

G U I D E S