4 minute read

Laos' mission to Go Global With LARB/GOY

Words by Sandy Patoumvanh

Image by Phoonsab Thevongsa

Around the world, people are enamored by the Asian dish, larb, a trend exemplified by pop culture moments like Aunt May’s playful “I Larb You” restaurant scene in Marvel’s Spiderman: Homecoming. But not many people know that larb holds an origin and deep cultural significance in Laos, where it is celebrated as an unofficial national dish.

While it has yet to achieve UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage status, efforts are already underway to change that, led by Dalaphone Pholsena, owner of Vientiane’s renowned Lao food restaurant, Kualao. This makes perfect sense, as larb is undeniably one of Laos’ most prized culinary treasures, and would position it globally alongside other Lao cultural treasures like Lamvonglao, Khaen music, and Naga motif weaving, that have already received the UNESCO ICH distinction.

At its core, larb is a minced meat salad, seasoned with lime juice, fish sauce, and an array of ingredients like toasted sticky rice powder, chilies and fresh herbs. This simple yet sophisticated combination produces a medley of umami, sour, spicy, salty, and bitter flavors that are deeply satisfying. It’s usually paired with sticky rice and a variety of fresh vegetables. For generations, it has been a centerpiece of Lao celebrations, bringing people together at weddings, family gatherings, and other special occasions.

In Laos, larb is celebrated for its versatility. Nearly any protein can be “larb-ed,” from household staples like pork, chicken, and fish to adventurous options like rabbit, venison, or even river weed for vegetarians. No matter the choice of meat, or lack thereof, larb is almost always accompanied by sticky rice and a spread of fresh, crunchy vegetables like longbeans, cucumber, and other greens that are in season and readily available in that particular geographical area. This variety in vegetation reflects Laos’ biodiverse nature and has been part of the foraging culture and cuisine for generations.

“For me, larb is not just a dish. Eating larb is a communal affair—no one enjoys it alone. We use larb to welcome visitors and wish them well, so much so that the word itself has become part of our blessings. In Lao, we say

, which means ‘to eat for luck and for larb.’ This is a pleonasm that equates larb with luck, and that’s such a beautiful thing. Yes, it tastes amazing, but it tastes so much better when we understand its deeper meaning. I want to share this culture with the world,” says Dalaphone proudly.

Dalaphone and Kualao’s passion for Lao cuisine extends beyond the restaurant. For over 20 years, the first generation owners have spearheaded the organization of the popular Lao Food Festival in collaboration with the Lao Business Women’s Association. Held every January, this vibrant event brings together chefs and home cooks from all 18 provinces to celebrate Laos’ rich culinary heritage.

"Eating larb is a communal affair no one enjoys it alone. We use larb to welcome visitors and wish them well, so much so that the word itself has become part of our blessings."

The Lao Food Festival is the only event of the year where locals, expats, and tourists alike have the rare opportunity to sample literally all of Laos’ regional dishes in one place.

For Dalaphone, securing UNESCO recognition for larb is just the beginning of a broader mission to ensure Lao cuisine receives the attention and respect it deserves, both at home and abroad.

Ant Egg Salad: The Wild Card

While larb holds the crown as Laos’ most beloved dish, its versatility extends to unique variations like ant egg salad (koi khai mot), a type of larb that showcases the creativity of Lao cuisine. This seasonal specialty features the delicate eggs of red ants, mixed with lime juice, fresh vegetables, and fish sauce to create a dish that is creamy, tangy, and irresistibly crunchy.

Once a rural staple, this larb variation has found its way into urban dining, where it’s often considered a delicacy. “The Economist called it ‘jungle caviar,’ but to me, it’s something many Lao people, regardless of their background, enjoy,” says Dalaphone. For adventurous eaters, ant egg salad offers an authentic and exciting spin on the classic larb tradition.

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