THE PHI KHON FESTIVAL

Words by Monlady Souliyavongsa

Images by Nouthaphone Simmavong

Translated by Nick Pugh

Walking along the local thoroughfare, I pause briefly to photograph the large orange bridge - a keepsake to remind me of my adventure to Paklay District in Sayaboury Province, where this unique traditional ghost festival is held. Upon reaching the town, I’m struck by the excitement of the preparations taking place. Food stalls line the streets alongside vendors selling festival paraphernalia and children’s toys, while Lao traditional music and dance performances add to the vibrant atmosphere.

As I wander through the festivities, the sound of bells resonates all around, and I spot boys and teenagers wearing “little ghost” masks. In the days leading up to the carnival, they run through the roads and alleys, playfully trying to spook girls and other villagers. By afternoon, I discover several affordable guesthouses in downtown Paklay near the festival sites, which would be convenient for any interested visitors.

At 8 AM, people from numerous villages gather to commence the Paklay Ghost Festival. The crowd includes students, representatives from the Lao People’s Revolutionary Youth Union, civil servants, soldiers, police, various ethnic groups, and festival organizers. The parade’s main attractions are the huge ghost faces - between ten and thirty appear each year. After the initial ceremonies, people rush to

take selfies with these impressive figures as if they were celebrities.

The afternoon ceremony transforms into a village-wide celebration, with masked revelers throughout. Each house plays music while residents feast and drink, awaiting the parade of ghost faces. People make merit by contributing money to elderly participants holding silver bowls. As the celebration continues, some join the parade in vehicles, while the ghost faces occasionally surprise households by making unexpected appearances before rejoining the procession.

The ghost festival is intertwined with the Boun Phavet festival, which celebrates Prince Vessantara, a previous incarnation of Buddha. The three-day festival includes recitals of his story, inviting his spirit to feast in the city. According to legend, Prince Vessantara renounced his

wealth and possessions to help others before retreating to the forest as a hermit. His courtiers, friends, and protective spirits followed him there, and when his father later summoned him back to the city, these spirits accompanied him to the city gates. This tale led the ancestors of Paklay district to believe these were the spirits of Phi Tam Khon, who followed the people in procession. Over time, this name evolved into the current term, Phi Khon.

The ghost masks reflect ancestral imagination, featuring large heads, long noses, tongues, and ears, paired with common clothing similar to what was worn during the original procession to the city gates. Historically, the ghost teachers would write messages of love on the ears of young men and women before a special tradition involving crafting wooden masks in fields and gardens before bringing them to the procession. While this specific custom no longer exists, people can still create and wear masks, though they must do so without disrespecting others. This ghost procession remains an essential annual tradition, passed down through generations to foster contentment, creativity, and solidarity among the people of Paklay district.

Getting there: Lao Skyways flies from Vientiane Capital to Sayaboury, which is four hours by road from Paklay District.